Date   

Re: Lite gauge wire for bow lights

Dan Carlson
 

Thanks for all of the recommendations and feedback.  I will add a spool of 18 guage, 2 wire tinned copper oval jacketed wire to my spares.  I already have some of the 22 guage shielded, and some 16*4 flat, and some 12 or 14 /2 wire for higher voltage/current.  

And thanks for the reminder about the bow locker floor Thomas. I'll put something down to distribute the weight before I spend much time in there.  

Best regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387


On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 11:08 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io wrote:
Shielded wire is great for electronics to prevent stray EMI issues. Not so critical for lighting, but still nice to have.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Nov 4, 2019, at 10:41 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

The 22 ga cable is 1 pair (red + black) 2 conductor and double insulated. It is round and about 5-6mm in diameter (around 3/16"). I like it for all electronics because of the double insulation (braid + foil) and its size.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 9:39 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
True, 18 gauge wire may be bigger than necessary, but I find it more robust, resisting breakage better than thinner wire, especially routing through difficult spaces. 
My 2¢, and your results may differ.  18 gauge is pretty thin.  

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Nov 4, 2019, at 9:00 PM, Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> wrote:

Hi Matt,
That looks like Ancor wire - a quality product with the new yellow-red for DC Neg-Positive color coding - although I couldn't see for sure if it was Ancor. Looks like smallest gauge is 18, which is overkill for LED lights.  Bill Rouse's recommendation of the Belden 22 gauge 4 conductor cable may give a smaller diameter and it is round, not oval, so maybe easier running through the stanchion tubes and the flexibility of an extra pair of conductors (although I'm not sure what one would use them for other than future spares). 
FWIW, Craig


Re: ZF Hurth Transmission

Gary Wells
 

Arthur, I had the same leak and if it is coming from where there shifter shaft enters the transmission it is an easy fix as well.

I drained the fluid from the bottom drain plug then undid the one bolt that holds the shift lever in place. 
It comes off easily and there is absmall lip seal that can be popped out.
The measurement are on the seal and I ordered a couple of replacement items from a Honda motorcycle shop :) 

That replacement stopped the leak and has held for four years now.

The info I have is that the seal is 20mm ID, 26mm OD by 4mm thickness. The Honda part number is 91262-GBF-831

I keep those white oul-absorbent cloth "diapers" spread out under the engine and transmission (and in the genset pan) so I can quickly see if any oil is getting loose.

Best of.luck!!

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
Cape Lookout


Re: Lite gauge wire for bow lights

Matt Salatino
 

Shielded wire is great for electronics to prevent stray EMI issues. Not so critical for lighting, but still nice to have.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Nov 4, 2019, at 10:41 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

The 22 ga cable is 1 pair (red + black) 2 conductor and double insulated. It is round and about 5-6mm in diameter (around 3/16"). I like it for all electronics because of the double insulation (braid + foil) and its size.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 9:39 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
True, 18 gauge wire may be bigger than necessary, but I find it more robust, resisting breakage better than thinner wire, especially routing through difficult spaces. 
My 2¢, and your results may differ.  18 gauge is pretty thin.  

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Nov 4, 2019, at 9:00 PM, Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> wrote:

Hi Matt,
That looks like Ancor wire - a quality product with the new yellow-red for DC Neg-Positive color coding - although I couldn't see for sure if it was Ancor. Looks like smallest gauge is 18, which is overkill for LED lights.  Bill Rouse's recommendation of the Belden 22 gauge 4 conductor cable may give a smaller diameter and it is round, not oval, so maybe easier running through the stanchion tubes and the flexibility of an extra pair of conductors (although I'm not sure what one would use them for other than future spares). 
FWIW, Craig


Re: Lite gauge wire for bow lights

 

The 22 ga cable is 1 pair (red + black) 2 conductor and double insulated. It is round and about 5-6mm in diameter (around 3/16"). I like it for all electronics because of the double insulation (braid + foil) and its size.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 9:39 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
True, 18 gauge wire may be bigger than necessary, but I find it more robust, resisting breakage better than thinner wire, especially routing through difficult spaces. 
My 2¢, and your results may differ.  18 gauge is pretty thin.  

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Nov 4, 2019, at 9:00 PM, Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> wrote:

Hi Matt,
That looks like Ancor wire - a quality product with the new yellow-red for DC Neg-Positive color coding - although I couldn't see for sure if it was Ancor. Looks like smallest gauge is 18, which is overkill for LED lights.  Bill Rouse's recommendation of the Belden 22 gauge 4 conductor cable may give a smaller diameter and it is round, not oval, so maybe easier running through the stanchion tubes and the flexibility of an extra pair of conductors (although I'm not sure what one would use them for other than future spares). 
FWIW, Craig


Re: Lite gauge wire for bow lights

Matt Salatino
 

True, 18 gauge wire may be bigger than necessary, but I find it more robust, resisting breakage better than thinner wire, especially routing through difficult spaces. 
My 2¢, and your results may differ.  18 gauge is pretty thin.  

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Nov 4, 2019, at 9:00 PM, Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> wrote:

Hi Matt,
That looks like Ancor wire - a quality product with the new yellow-red for DC Neg-Positive color coding - although I couldn't see for sure if it was Ancor. Looks like smallest gauge is 18, which is overkill for LED lights.  Bill Rouse's recommendation of the Belden 22 gauge 4 conductor cable may give a smaller diameter and it is round, not oval, so maybe easier running through the stanchion tubes and the flexibility of an extra pair of conductors (although I'm not sure what one would use them for other than future spares). 
FWIW, Craig


Re: Lite gauge wire for bow lights

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Matt,
That looks like Ancor wire - a quality product with the new yellow-red for DC Neg-Positive color coding - although I couldn't see for sure if it was Ancor. Looks like smallest gauge is 18, which is overkill for LED lights.  Bill Rouse's recommendation of the Belden 22 gauge 4 conductor cable may give a smaller diameter and it is round, not oval, so maybe easier running through the stanchion tubes and the flexibility of an extra pair of conductors (although I'm not sure what one would use them for other than future spares). 
FWIW, Craig


Re: Lite gauge wire for bow lights

Thomas Kleman
 

Be careful Dan. Replacing bow light wire is how more than one SM owner (including me) heard a loud crack in the floor and began the dreaded bow locker floor replacement project. 

Tom and Kirstin
SV L'ORIENT SM2K 422
Bocas del Toro


Re: Lite gauge wire for bow lights

Matt Salatino
 

On Nov 4, 2019, at 11:35 AM, Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:

Quick question:  I am shopping for wire our return to BeBe next week and wanted to buy a spool of wire for rewiring bow and stern lights and possibly other things.   I thought I would check for recommendations on the best wire.  Brand? And most versatile wire size (particularly with respect to feeding it through the ss tubing of the bow pulpit to the light fixtures.     

I will be installing LED lights so current will be low for this application, but I would like to have a versatile wire for other potential (lower voltage/current) applications. 

I have seen that there are posts with the instructions for re-wiring the bow lights so I am not looking for that information right now.  

Thanks and regards,  Daniel & Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387 


Re: Lite gauge wire for bow lights

 

Dan,

I used the following for low amperage connections. It is small cable and will probably be easier to route through the stanchions.
 

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 10:35 AM Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
Quick question:  I am shopping for wire our return to BeBe next week and wanted to buy a spool of wire for rewiring bow and stern lights and possibly other things.   I thought I would check for recommendations on the best wire.  Brand? And most versatile wire size (particularly with respect to feeding it through the ss tubing of the bow pulpit to the light fixtures.     

I will be installing LED lights so current will be low for this application, but I would like to have a versatile wire for other potential (lower voltage/current) applications. 

I have seen that there are posts with the instructions for re-wiring the bow lights so I am not looking for that information right now.  

Thanks and regards,  Daniel & Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387 


Lite gauge wire for bow lights

Dan Carlson
 

Quick question:  I am shopping for wire our return to BeBe next week and wanted to buy a spool of wire for rewiring bow and stern lights and possibly other things.   I thought I would check for recommendations on the best wire.  Brand? And most versatile wire size (particularly with respect to feeding it through the ss tubing of the bow pulpit to the light fixtures.     

I will be installing LED lights so current will be low for this application, but I would like to have a versatile wire for other potential (lower voltage/current) applications. 

I have seen that there are posts with the instructions for re-wiring the bow lights so I am not looking for that information right now.  

Thanks and regards,  Daniel & Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387 


Re: ZF Hurth Transmission

Arthur Sundqvist
 

Thank you. I Will check

Skickat från min iPhone

4 nov. 2019 kl. 14:14 skrev Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io <sangaris@...>:

Hi Arhur,
Hopefully it's from the drain plug on the underside that has a sealing washer you can easily replace.
Craig


Re: ZF Hurth Transmission

Arthur Sundqvist
 

Thanks. I Will check...
What is Transmission Shaft seal.

Skickat från min iPhone

4 nov. 2019 kl. 14:11 skrev CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>:


It is a leak from the reversing transmission. Check the cap for the filter and the high pressure line to the shaft brake. 

If the above doesn't reveal the leak, place white paper towels so that you can narrow it down to a specific location. You will probably need to clean everything and tape paper towels in place. Hopefully it is not a transmission shaft seal.


--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 5:35 AM Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:
There is some red ATF oil drops  coming from the transmission box.
A small leak. What can this be?
SM435. Vista
Fair winds to all
Kindest regards
arthur


Re: ZF Hurth Transmission

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Arhur,
Hopefully it's from the drain plug on the underside that has a sealing washer you can easily replace.
Craig


Re: ZF Hurth Transmission

 

It is a leak from the reversing transmission. Check the cap for the filter and the high pressure line to the shaft brake. 

If the above doesn't reveal the leak, place white paper towels so that you can narrow it down to a specific location. You will probably need to clean everything and tape paper towels in place. Hopefully it is not a transmission shaft seal.


--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 5:35 AM Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:
There is some red ATF oil drops  coming from the transmission box.
A small leak. What can this be?
SM435. Vista
Fair winds to all
Kindest regards
arthur


Re: Maramu 1984 - Genoa - Original sailpan overlap

 

I'll add some more opinion to the Genoa size discussion.

I don't understand the advantage of changing the geometry of the Genoa, when considering that Amel SMs were designed primarily as downwind passage makers with the option of setting furling twin headsails and poles. Changing the size of the furling Genoa doesn't make sense to me, but changing it without changing its twin (ballooner) really doesn't make sense. 

The SM Genoa is the most powerful of all the SM sails. It has a bullet-proof furler which will routinely last 20 years without service or even greasing. All of the SM sails, as designed, allow for balanced sailing.  I would like to understand the benefit of reducing the Genoa's designed potential power.

And, more importantly, when owners speak of modifying an Amel design, you know that I am the one raising the Amel flag. 


--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 3:17 AM smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi there

Ours genoa 150% or perhaps even 160% when we purchased the boat

We reduced it to 135 with a new sail and that seemed like a good compromise to us and got us around the North Atlantic very well. 

We pull  the big old one out of retirement for the downwind trade winds passage East to West but at all other times used the 135%

If you go this route .... its well worth checking the smaller sail's clew is cut so it can still be poled out and reefed whilst poled etc 

Ours was cut high which worked well fo the poles but just too high so that I can’t reach the leech line or clew without gymnastics - also worth considering imo

As a related aside......my next trip ... (if it happens!) .... for downwind work we will use the 135% and have a dedicated 110ish% strong sail piston hanked onto a removable forestay for pole plus pole downwind work with double headsails

Ive done this before and tried other things like cruising chutes and small spinnakers but for simplicity it cant be beaten in my humble opinion. 

The main genoa on the furler as the throttle and the smaller bullet proof one hanked on and up for the whole passage (unless it gets seriously windy). 

I appreciate that SM have the choice of the double headsails up the same foil and the means to release this which looks pretty awesome so probably more of a consideration for vintage Maramu folk

All the best and happy sailing 

Miles

Maramu 162 1986


Re: salt water leaking out of speed sensor

 

It is in a PVC tube which may fill with water, if the sensor in the tube is not sealed with RTV silicone. It isn't a problem since the inside end of the tube is well above the water line. Take a photo of the sensor/leak and send it to me. I'll give you more info after I see the photo. brouse@... 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 1:05 AM Randall Walker <sailingalbedo@...> wrote:
Speed sensor. I have been on the hard for a few months now prepping to be splashed in 3 weeks.
I have water (salty) a very small amount seeping from the speed sensor at the front of the keel. My question is has anyone ever had to find the route to the sensor within the keel?

Randall,
A-54 #56


ZF Hurth Transmission

Arthur Sundqvist
 

There is some red ATF oil drops  coming from the transmission box.
A small leak. What can this be?
SM435. Vista
Fair winds to all
Kindest regards
arthur


Re: Maramu window ply interior removal

Ian Park
 

Yes, glued under the edge line of the wood then replaced it. I shaved the foam off the back of the vinyl that was behind the wood to ensure a good fit with the window again.
Ian


On 4 Nov 2019, at 08:55, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:


this looks great! thanks for sharing and i like the smaller panels so might copy!
So re the headliner by the ply window trim  - did you glue this in place then replace the ply trim over the top as per the original installation?
All the very best
Miles

On Monday, November 4, 2019, 07:46:22 AM GMT, Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:


Miles
Photo of aft cabin with the panels held in place by screwed in battens.
The original decorative battens were fewer, but I have added more to make the panels smaller and more manageable. Works well. Self adhesive Velcro makes positioning easy until the battens are screwed in place.
> On 3 Nov 2019, at 21:23, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
>
> Hi there fellow Amelians
>
> Thanks to Ian on Ocean Hobo for describing how the interior ply window panels come out on his SN. Apparently remove window screws and bolts and the ply will come away with some persuasion. So in effect the window screws and through bolts hold the ply interior in place on the SN.
>
> Does anyone on the group have direct experience of this on a Maramu? Is it the same ?
>
>
> I have a troublesome leak on the main coach roof and it’s effecting  the ply around the windows and damaging the veneer. Grr.
>
> I am failing to locate the source . I think it’s from the handrail or the main hatch above the table so have tarped these and will apply a process of elimination but the answer probably lies in headliner removal
>
> The headliner ticks under the window ply so hence the question!
>
> I do wish Amel had used screwed into headliner panels. Seems to make so much sense for many reasons and wonder why they didn’t. Can’t imagine it was a cost cutting thing. Perhaps aesthetics but I’d trade those for simplicity. Perhaps the newer models have adopted this ?

>
> All the best and happy sailing for those afloat
>
> Miles
> Maramu 162
> In the hard !
> Plymouth uk

>
>
>



Re: Maramu 1984 - Genoa - Original sailpan overlap

smiles bernard
 

Hi there

Ours genoa 150% or perhaps even 160% when we purchased the boat

We reduced it to 135 with a new sail and that seemed like a good compromise to us and got us around the North Atlantic very well. 

We pull  the big old one out of retirement for the downwind trade winds passage East to West but at all other times used the 135%

If you go this route .... its well worth checking the smaller sail's clew is cut so it can still be poled out and reefed whilst poled etc 

Ours was cut high which worked well fo the poles but just too high so that I can’t reach the leech line or clew without gymnastics - also worth considering imo

As a related aside......my next trip ... (if it happens!) .... for downwind work we will use the 135% and have a dedicated 110ish% strong sail piston hanked onto a removable forestay for pole plus pole downwind work with double headsails

Ive done this before and tried other things like cruising chutes and small spinnakers but for simplicity it cant be beaten in my humble opinion. 

The main genoa on the furler as the throttle and the smaller bullet proof one hanked on and up for the whole passage (unless it gets seriously windy). 

I appreciate that SM have the choice of the double headsails up the same foil and the means to release this which looks pretty awesome so probably more of a consideration for vintage Maramu folk

All the best and happy sailing 

Miles

Maramu 162 1986


Re: Maramu window ply interior removal

smiles bernard
 

this looks great! thanks for sharing and i like the smaller panels so might copy!
So re the headliner by the ply window trim  - did you glue this in place then replace the ply trim over the top as per the original installation?
All the very best
Miles

On Monday, November 4, 2019, 07:46:22 AM GMT, Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:


Miles
Photo of aft cabin with the panels held in place by screwed in battens.
The original decorative battens were fewer, but I have added more to make the panels smaller and more manageable. Works well. Self adhesive Velcro makes positioning easy until the battens are screwed in place.
> On 3 Nov 2019, at 21:23, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
>
> Hi there fellow Amelians
>
> Thanks to Ian on Ocean Hobo for describing how the interior ply window panels come out on his SN. Apparently remove window screws and bolts and the ply will come away with some persuasion. So in effect the window screws and through bolts hold the ply interior in place on the SN.
>
> Does anyone on the group have direct experience of this on a Maramu? Is it the same ?
>
>
> I have a troublesome leak on the main coach roof and it’s effecting  the ply around the windows and damaging the veneer. Grr.
>
> I am failing to locate the source . I think it’s from the handrail or the main hatch above the table so have tarped these and will apply a process of elimination but the answer probably lies in headliner removal
>
> The headliner ticks under the window ply so hence the question!
>
> I do wish Amel had used screwed into headliner panels. Seems to make so much sense for many reasons and wonder why they didn’t. Can’t imagine it was a cost cutting thing. Perhaps aesthetics but I’d trade those for simplicity. Perhaps the newer models have adopted this ?

>
> All the best and happy sailing for those afloat
>
> Miles
> Maramu 162
> In the hard !
> Plymouth uk

>
>
>