Re: Anchor Wash Pump SM
Arlo
Thanks for the information. Very useful. So to date we use a hose with a spray nozzle from the freshwater valve under our cockpit seat. We have a 1985 Mango. The thinking was eventually to extend our freshwater plumbing in the forward head to the bow locker and put a valve up there so we dont need to drag a 50 foot hose the length of the boat to rinse down the anchor chain or take a fresh water shiwer on the forward deck. We like using freshwater instead of salt as it keeps the smell down when the chain is in the locker and keeps the salt corrosion down when the chain is stored in the locker. Has anyone else done this? Aside from the downside of using your freshwater supply (water maker will offset this), I couldnt bring myself to plumb in a saltwater washdown instead. Since we have a Mango no washdown was installed from Amel. Also it means 1 less pump to worry about...
Thoughts ?
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Santorin Furling/Outhaul Solenoid Wiring Question
Santorin Owners, We have a bit of a mystery and I am sure someone knows the answer. See the photo below. Notice the Yellow/Green (Bonding Wire?) attached to Solenoid #1 and #3 on the "East" (three o'clock) posts. This appears to be done by Amel. Does anyone know the purpose of this wire? Is it bonding? Note the Solenoid Array on a SM below. There is no yellow/green (bonding wire). --
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Later model 54 & possibly 55 Furling Motor Seal Question
We are attempting to change the upper lip seal on a later model 54 vertically mounted furling motor. If you have done this, how did you remove the seal. I assume that the seal is pulled from the outside, but would like to hear from others that have done this. --
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Re: Lithium Ion Battery teardowns
Hi Bill,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Wow that does look interesting. A drop in replacement and no additional BMS. What is the catch? I am not yet in the market as my Lifeline AGM’s are only two years old and they get filled to 100 percent most of the time. Maybe in 5 years time... Nick Amelia Kilada Greece
On 25 Nov 2019, at 22:31, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
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Re: Anchor Wash Pump SM
Randall Walker
Since purchasing my 54 I have found myself looking at the anchor washdown with a reinvent in mind. The most important part of the whole washdown is blasting the chain clean before it disappears into the abyss we call the chain locker. We can always go up an wash the anchor when convenient. Randall A54-#56
On Mon, Nov 25, 2019 at 6:29 PM Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:
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Santorin Furling Solenoid on Main Urgent
Eric Meury
Looks like the furling solenoid has given up.
There is not much conversation on this for santorin owners. But they are 12volt. They are marked Cima and no luck with the google machine. Any suggestions on possible replacement here in the United States.
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Lithium Ion Battery teardowns
I found 2 YouTube videos on Lithium Ion batteries that I really like. The batteries were disassembled by Will Prowse: https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/lithium-batteries.html. --
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Anchor Wash Pump SM
Thomas Peacock
I always felt the anchor wash on the SM did not do a great job. After a minor collision at the bow, it became even less useful. Finally, the pump developed a major leak, not fixable. I have put in a new pump, Jabsco Hot Shot wash-down, 24 volts, 24 liters per minute, US$185. It develops 70 PSI of pressure, with a pressure cut-off switch. It fits in easily where the old pump was. In the forward port-side deck locker, I disconnected the hose leading to the anchor roller, and instead hooked up a garden hose with a spray nozzle. Tom Peacock
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Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install
Doe anyone have a photo or two from installing an external regulator on their Leece-Neville 175amp alternator? I have the wiring diagrams from a previous post but was wondering if someone had an actual photo of the wire that needs to be snipped? And any additional tips or caveats?
I will be installing the WakeSpeed WS500 regulator. The wiring to the alternator for the WS500 looks very similar to the Balmar 624. Thanks and regards, Daniel Carlson on SM#387, sv BeBe
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Re: Prop Shaft Squeak
Hi James,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Since you plan to pull the shaft and check it at a machine shop you should also check that the prop is true. Many years ago (1991) I had a similar problem, it was on my first boat a 35’ gaff cutter. In Venezuela I installed a new engine, but the whole drive train was never checked. By the time I arrived in New Zealand I had only put on 200 hours as there was obviously a problem. Anchored off Russel in the Bay of Islands I pulled the prop and shaft, bunging the hole from inside and out. The machine shop right there checked the shaft, and it was bent. He checked the prop and it was true but completely the wrong prop for the type of boat. At very reasonable cost he supplied me with a second hand shaft and a second hand prop. I then went to town on the alignment and got it spot on. From that moment on engaging gear was a silky smooth transition and gradually powering up and loading the engine was a joy. The point being that the whole power train from engine to prop is critical. I suggest in addition to checking the shaft, you have the prop checked for balance. As James on Sueno says, the cutlass bearing might need “bedding in”. It should not be tight. It should be only bearing on the bottom due to the weight of the shaft with a very slight gap above and around. So there is a tiny bit of wiggle and you should be able to turn it by hand easily. The alignment: I see the shaft alternator and coupling arrangement from your photos. I suggest that initially you slide on the temporary nylon bearing down the shaft so that it sits in the stern tube and the shaft is then supported for and aft with minimal wiggle. Then gently slide the shaft forward so that it kisses the coupling. If it slides perfectly into the coupling slot without pushing it up or down or to one side then the alignment is already pretty good. I would then using feeler gauges check the alignment on the coupling to the transmission whilst rotating it. I am not sure that you actually need to remove the alternator pulley. If you want to, then the shaft should reach with the prop removed. I have said that the alignment is critical. However given the fact that there is no bearing forward, only a piece of exhaust hose and a lip seal that can move about quite freely, and given that the cutlass bearing must be at least three or four feet aft of the engine and the cutlass bearing is maybe five inches long. Also given the fact that the engine is mounted flexibly. I would say that the alignment needs to be such that the shaft slides without force into its coupling would be good enough. In my story above the engine was solidly mounted on hardwood blocks and there was a grease gland bearing at the forward end of the shaft. Alignment was very very critical. In your case it will not be so critical. I still think however that the technique to centre the shaft with a temporary nylon bearing is a great way to get the proper datum from which to work. Regarding the squeak being between 1500-1800 rpm. It would not surprise me if either the prop or the shaft, or indeed alignment is the problem, or even all three. Nick Amelia AML 54-019 Kilada Greece
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Re: Prop Shaft Squeak
James Alton
James,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I thought of one more thing that possibly could be causing the noise. I installed a cutlass bearing once that was a bit on the tight side, apparently a manufacturing issue. The Cutlass bearing made what I would call a “chirping” noise for while as it wore in. Might be worth spinning the prop before you launch and listen for noise from the new cutlass bearing. Best of luck in solving the mystery squeak, let us know what it turned out to be. Best, James SV Sueno Maramu #220
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Re: Prop Shaft Squeak
James Lochhead
Hi Dennis,
Yep tried that. I need to do a rebuild on the alternator anyway. Did you have any issues sourcing the bearings? -- James Maramu #147 (1984)
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Re: Prop Shaft Squeak
James Lochhead
Thanks James, I used your easier method last time. Might try the "fancy" method now as it did not solve the issue. Then if it continues at least I know it is not that.
-- James Maramu #147 (1984)
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Re: Prop Shaft Squeak
James Lochhead
-- Thanks Nick. Your description is perfect. I will have another go at the alignment. Due to location and with no assistance around at the time I did it myself with only advice from other cruisers. It is out of the water currently so I will try your proposal of the temporary bearing while out first when I get back to the boat and then check again once I get back in the water. Will also get the prop shaft checked. I have one other question if you could help. Due to the prop shaft generator the belt pulley sits between the vetus coupling and the transmission. I have attached some photos from another post that shows the arrangement. from memory the 4 bolts shown on the photo "vetus coupler" bolt through the coupling and the pulley holding it all in place. When measuring the the alignment access to the back of the transmission is limited due to the generator pulley. I am not sure if there is enough length in the shaft to pull it forward without the pulley in place. Do you have any thoughts on this? Also it is only at certain revs that the squeak was occurring. Very low revs and then between 1500-1800. James Maramu #147 (1984)
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Re: Power Failure
Dennis, that created a dead short of the house bank. Something melted because there is enough amperage in the house bank to weld. Look for a burned wire. Also, try to find the shunt for the battery monitor. It may have blown because on your boat it is probably rated at 12 volts 200 amps or less...a dead short would have been more than 200 amps. It will be on the negative side. I am not sure if it will look burned, but you should check for continuity between the two large posts. I am not sure, but I think if the shunt is burned, the monitor will still work because of which side of the shunt it is connected. The shunt will look something like this and will be located close to the batteries: It will be wired something like this: Good luck. --
On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 1:42 PM Bill Fletcher <bll.fletcher@...> wrote:
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Re: Greasing stegring cables
Pat, Steve would know better than any of us. --
On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 10:20 AM Stephen Davis <flyboyscd@...> wrote:
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Re: Power Failure
Bill Fletcher
You need to get a meter and check the voltage at the main on off switch inside the engine compartment. If there is no voltage there there may be a fuse on the battery terminals that have blown. It is a place to start. Bill fletcher Maramu sn179
On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 10:26 AM sbmesasailor via Groups.Io <sbmesasailor=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Electrical issues are not my strong suit. I had my house battery alternator off for a rebuild. I took my Maramu out for a day sail and upon return to the harbor, my house power failed -everything, not even a dome light will come on. Battery monitor showed 95% charge so the batteries were not spent. In the engine compartment I discovered that a cable from the alternator had grounded to the mounting bracket which is bolted to the engine mounts. I hope I have just blown a main fuse somewhere but I don't know where to begin my search. Any ideas?
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Re: Greasing stegring cables
Patrick McAneny
Steve, I have only over the years lost no more than a 1/4 of a cup if that. Based on what you describe there seems to be adequate lubrication to spare, and as much as I am not looking for any additional projects ,I think I will then put this one on the back burner.
Thanks for the insight,
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Davis <flyboyscd@...> To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io> Sent: Sun, Nov 24, 2019 11:20 am Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables Hi Pat,
I would suggest you do not attempt to add a grease fitting to the Racks. The steel racks take up almost all the room inside the black housing they are fitted into, and I’m not sure you can find a place to put the nipple. Even if you could, the grease is not going to circulate adequately around the racks. When I took my racks apart, they were still packed full of grease after 27 years. If you are losing a lot of grease from your racks, something is probably not right, and you should take them apart. If you are just losing very small amounts of grease, don’t worry, the racks are very full of grease.
Just my two cents worth, but having replaced my entire steering system (racks, pinion, and cables), I have a fairly good understanding of how it works.
Regards,
Steve Davis
Aloha SM72
Ko Olina, Hawaii
On Nov 24, 2019, at 4:07 AM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...> wrote:
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Re: Greasing stegring cables
Germain Jean-Pierre
For everyone having rack problems, they are cast aluminium on our SM. Little wear showing on mine.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Cheers Jean-Pierre Germain. SY Eleuthera, SM 007
On 25/11/2019, at 3:07 AM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...> wrote:
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Power Failure
sbmesasailor
Electrical issues are not my strong suit. I had my house battery alternator off for a rebuild. I took my Maramu out for a day sail and upon return to the harbor, my house power failed -everything, not even a dome light will come on. Battery monitor showed 95% charge so the batteries were not spent. In the engine compartment I discovered that a cable from the alternator had grounded to the mounting bracket which is bolted to the engine mounts. I hope I have just blown a main fuse somewhere but I don't know where to begin my search. Any ideas?
Thanks Dennis Libertad Maramu #121
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