1. main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
   Date   
Re: Anchor Wash Pump SM

Arlo
 

Thanks for the information. Very useful. So to date we use a hose with a spray nozzle from the freshwater valve under our cockpit seat. We have a 1985 Mango. The thinking was eventually  to extend our freshwater plumbing in the forward head to the bow locker and put a valve up there so we dont need to drag a 50 foot hose the length of the boat to rinse down the anchor chain or take a fresh water shiwer on the forward deck. We like using freshwater instead of salt as it keeps the smell down when the chain is in the locker and keeps the salt corrosion down when the chain is stored in the locker. Has anyone else done this? Aside from the downside of using your freshwater supply (water maker will offset this), I couldnt bring myself to plumb in a saltwater washdown instead. Since we have a Mango no washdown was installed from Amel. Also it means 1 less pump to worry about...

Thoughts ?
Santorin Furling/Outhaul Solenoid Wiring Question

CW Bill Rouse
 

Santorin Owners,

We have a bit of a mystery and I am sure someone knows the answer. See the photo below. Notice the Yellow/Green (Bonding Wire?) attached to Solenoid #1 and #3 on the "East" (three o'clock) posts. 

This appears to be done by Amel. 

Does anyone know the purpose of this wire? Is it bonding?
image.png
Note the Solenoid Array on a SM below. There is no yellow/green (bonding wire).
image.png

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

Later model 54 & possibly 55 Furling Motor Seal Question

CW Bill Rouse
 

We are attempting to change the upper lip seal on a later model 54 vertically mounted furling motor. If you have done this, how did you remove the seal. I assume that the seal is pulled from the outside, but would like to hear from others that have done this.

image.png


--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

Re: Lithium Ion Battery teardowns

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Bill,
Wow that does look interesting. 
A drop in replacement and no additional BMS.
What is the catch?
I am not yet in the market as my Lifeline AGM’s are only two years old and they get filled to 100 percent most of the time.
Maybe in 5 years time...
Nick
Amelia 
Kilada Greece


On 25 Nov 2019, at 22:31, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


I found 2 YouTube videos on Lithium Ion batteries that I really like. The batteries were disassembled by Will Prowse:  https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/lithium-batteries.html.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


Re: Anchor Wash Pump SM

Randall Walker
 

Since purchasing my 54 I have found myself looking at the anchor washdown with a reinvent in mind. The most important part of the whole washdown is blasting the chain clean before it disappears into the abyss we call the chain locker. We can always go up an wash the anchor when convenient.

Randall
A54-#56

On Mon, Nov 25, 2019 at 6:29 PM Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:

I always felt the anchor wash on the SM did not do a great job. After a minor collision at the bow, it became even less useful. Finally, the pump developed a major leak, not fixable. 

I have put in a new pump, Jabsco Hot Shot wash-down, 24 volts, 24 liters per minute, US$185. It develops 70 PSI of pressure, with a pressure cut-off switch. It fits in easily where the old pump was. In the forward port-side deck locker, I disconnected the hose leading to the anchor roller, and instead hooked up a garden hose with a spray nozzle.
The new system works very well, very vigorous spray to clean almost anything that the chain or anchor pulls up without having to use a brush. Granted, someone must be at the bow to direct the spray. In addition, the hose can be used to wash down the forward part of the deck. 

Tom Peacock
SM #240 Aletes
Martinique

    
Santorin Furling Solenoid on Main Urgent

Eric Meury
 

Looks like the furling solenoid has given up.  

There is not much conversation on this for santorin owners.  But they are 12volt.  They are marked Cima and no luck with the google machine.  Any suggestions on possible replacement here in the United States.
Lithium Ion Battery teardowns

CW Bill Rouse
 

I found 2 YouTube videos on Lithium Ion batteries that I really like. The batteries were disassembled by Will Prowse:  https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/lithium-batteries.html.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


Anchor Wash Pump SM

Thomas Peacock
 

I always felt the anchor wash on the SM did not do a great job. After a minor collision at the bow, it became even less useful. Finally, the pump developed a major leak, not fixable. 

I have put in a new pump, Jabsco Hot Shot wash-down, 24 volts, 24 liters per minute, US$185. It develops 70 PSI of pressure, with a pressure cut-off switch. It fits in easily where the old pump was. In the forward port-side deck locker, I disconnected the hose leading to the anchor roller, and instead hooked up a garden hose with a spray nozzle.
The new system works very well, very vigorous spray to clean almost anything that the chain or anchor pulls up without having to use a brush. Granted, someone must be at the bow to direct the spray. In addition, the hose can be used to wash down the forward part of the deck. 

Tom Peacock
SM #240 Aletes
Martinique

    
Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install

Dan Carlson
 

Doe anyone have a photo or two from installing an external regulator on their Leece-Neville 175amp alternator?  I have the wiring diagrams from a previous post but was wondering if someone had an actual photo of the wire that needs to be snipped? And any additional tips or caveats? 

I will be installing the WakeSpeed WS500 regulator. The wiring to the alternator for the WS500 looks very similar to the Balmar 624.

Thanks and regards, Daniel Carlson on SM#387, sv BeBe
Re: Prop Shaft Squeak

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi James,

Since you plan to pull the shaft and check it at a machine shop you should also check that the prop is true. Many years ago (1991) I had a similar problem, it was on my first boat a 35’ gaff cutter. In Venezuela I installed a new engine, but the whole drive train was never checked. By the time I arrived in New Zealand I had only put on 200 hours as there was obviously a problem. Anchored off Russel in the Bay of Islands I pulled the prop and shaft, bunging the hole from inside and out. The machine shop right there checked the shaft, and it was bent. He checked the prop and it was true but completely the wrong prop for the type of boat. At very reasonable cost he supplied me with a second hand shaft and a second hand prop. I then went to town on the alignment and got it spot on. From that moment on engaging gear was a silky smooth transition and gradually powering up and loading the engine was a joy.

The point being that the whole power train from engine to prop is critical. I suggest in addition to checking the shaft, you have the prop checked for balance.

As James on Sueno says, the cutlass bearing might need “bedding in”. It should not be tight. It should be only bearing on the bottom due to the weight of the shaft with a very slight gap above and around. So there is a tiny bit of wiggle and you should be able to turn it by hand easily.

The alignment:

I see the shaft alternator and coupling arrangement from your photos. I suggest that initially you slide on the temporary nylon bearing down the shaft so that it sits in the stern tube and the shaft is then supported for and aft with minimal wiggle. Then gently slide the shaft forward so that it kisses the coupling. If it slides perfectly into the coupling slot without pushing it up or down or to one side then the alignment is already pretty good. 
I would then using feeler gauges check the alignment on the coupling to the transmission whilst rotating it. I am not sure that you actually need to remove the alternator pulley. If you want to, then the shaft should reach with the prop removed. 

I have said that the alignment is critical. However given the fact that there is no bearing forward, only a piece of exhaust hose and a lip seal that can move about quite freely, and given that the cutlass bearing must be at least three or four feet aft of the engine and the cutlass bearing is maybe five inches long. Also given the fact that the engine is mounted flexibly. I would say that the alignment needs to be such that the shaft slides without force into its coupling would be good enough. In my story above the engine was solidly mounted on hardwood blocks and there was a grease gland bearing at the forward end of the shaft. Alignment was very very critical. In your case it will not be so critical. I still think however that the technique to centre the shaft with a temporary nylon bearing is a great way to get the proper datum from which to work.

Regarding the squeak being between 1500-1800 rpm. It would not surprise me if either the prop or the shaft, or indeed alignment is the problem, or even all three.

Nick
Amelia AML 54-019
Kilada Greece


On 25 Nov 2019, at 00:50, James Lochhead <j_lochhead@...> wrote:


-- Thanks Nick.  Your description is perfect.  I will have another go at the alignment.  Due to location and with no assistance around at the time I did it myself with only advice from other cruisers.

It is out of the water currently so I will try your proposal of the temporary bearing while out first when I get back to the boat and then check again once I get back in the water.  Will also get the prop shaft checked.

I have one other question if you could help.  Due to the prop shaft generator the belt pulley sits between the vetus coupling and the transmission.  I have attached some photos from another post that shows the arrangement.  from memory the 4 bolts shown on the photo "vetus coupler" bolt through the coupling and the pulley holding it all in place.
When measuring the the alignment access to the back of the transmission is limited due to the generator pulley.  I am not sure if there is enough length in the shaft to pull it forward without the pulley in place.  Do you have any thoughts on this?

Also it is only at certain revs that the squeak was occurring.  Very low revs and then between 1500-1800.

James
Maramu #147 (1984) <Prop Shaft Alternator.jpg><Coupling.JPG><Vetus coupler.jpg>
Re: Prop Shaft Squeak

James Alton
 

James,

    I thought of one more thing that possibly could be causing the noise.  I installed a cutlass bearing once that was a bit on the tight side,  apparently a manufacturing issue.  The Cutlass bearing made what I would call a “chirping” noise for while as it wore in.  Might be worth spinning the prop before you launch and listen for noise from the new cutlass bearing.

   Best of luck in solving the mystery squeak,  let us know what it turned out to be. 


Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Nov 24, 2019, at 8:52 PM, James Lochhead <j_lochhead@...> wrote:

Thanks James,  I used your easier method last time.  Might try the "fancy" method now as it did not solve the issue.   Then if it continues at least I know it is not that.
--

James
Maramu #147 (1984)

Re: Prop Shaft Squeak

James Lochhead
 

Hi Dennis,

Yep tried that.  I need to do a rebuild on the alternator anyway.  Did you have any issues sourcing the bearings?
--

James
Maramu #147 (1984)
Re: Prop Shaft Squeak

James Lochhead
 

Thanks James,  I used your easier method last time.  Might try the "fancy" method now as it did not solve the issue.   Then if it continues at least I know it is not that.
--

James
Maramu #147 (1984)
Re: Prop Shaft Squeak

James Lochhead
 


-- Thanks Nick.  Your description is perfect.  I will have another go at the alignment.  Due to location and with no assistance around at the time I did it myself with only advice from other cruisers.

It is out of the water currently so I will try your proposal of the temporary bearing while out first when I get back to the boat and then check again once I get back in the water.  Will also get the prop shaft checked.

I have one other question if you could help.  Due to the prop shaft generator the belt pulley sits between the vetus coupling and the transmission.  I have attached some photos from another post that shows the arrangement.  from memory the 4 bolts shown on the photo "vetus coupler" bolt through the coupling and the pulley holding it all in place.
When measuring the the alignment access to the back of the transmission is limited due to the generator pulley.  I am not sure if there is enough length in the shaft to pull it forward without the pulley in place.  Do you have any thoughts on this?

Also it is only at certain revs that the squeak was occurring.  Very low revs and then between 1500-1800.

James
Maramu #147 (1984)
Re: Power Failure

CW Bill Rouse
 

Dennis, that created a dead short of the house bank. Something melted because there is enough amperage in the house bank to weld. Look for a burned wire. Also, try to find the shunt for the battery monitor. It may have blown because on your boat it is probably rated at 12 volts 200 amps or less...a dead short would have been more than 200 amps. It will be on the negative side. I am not sure if it will look burned, but you should check for continuity between the two large posts. I am not sure, but I think if the shunt is burned, the monitor will still work because of which side of the shunt it is connected. The shunt will look something like this and will be located close to the batteries:
image.png

It will be wired something like this:
image.png

Good luck.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 1:42 PM Bill Fletcher <bll.fletcher@...> wrote:
You need to get a meter and check the voltage at the main on off switch inside the engine compartment. If there is no voltage there there may be a fuse on the battery terminals that have blown. It is a place to start. 
Bill fletcher
Maramu sn179

On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 10:26 AM sbmesasailor via Groups.Io <sbmesasailor=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Electrical issues are not my strong suit.  I had my house battery alternator off for a rebuild.  I took my Maramu out for a day sail and upon return to the harbor, my house power failed -everything, not even a dome light will come on.  Battery monitor showed 95% charge so the batteries were not spent.  In the engine compartment I discovered that a cable from the alternator had grounded to the mounting bracket which is bolted to the engine mounts.  I hope I have just blown a main fuse somewhere but I don't know where to begin my search.  Any ideas?

Thanks
Dennis
Libertad
Maramu #121

Re: Greasing stegring cables

CW Bill Rouse
 

Pat,

Steve would know better than any of us.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 10:20 AM Stephen Davis <flyboyscd@...> wrote:
Hi Pat,

I would suggest you do not attempt to add a grease fitting to the Racks. The steel racks take up almost all the room inside the black housing they are fitted into, and I’m not sure you can find a place to put the nipple.  Even if you could, the grease is not going to circulate adequately around the racks. When I took my racks apart, they were still packed full of grease after 27 years. If you are losing a lot of grease from your racks, something is probably not right, and you should take them apart. If you are just losing very small amounts of grease, don’t worry, the racks are very full of grease. 

Just my two cents worth, but having replaced my entire steering system (racks, pinion, and cables), I have a fairly good understanding of how it works. 

Regards,

Steve Davis
Aloha SM72
Ko  Olina, Hawaii

On Nov 24, 2019, at 4:07 AM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:


Bill , I may go ahead and try to add a nipple,if as you said the wall is too thin to tap , I will seal it by other means. I will in the future tie the wheel off center to spread the wear as per another owners suggestion a week or so back,a good idea. If the rack is steel, do you think it possible to replace the worn metal through welding in new material and then fashioning new teeth by filing.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Nov 23, 2019 4:19 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables

Pat,

I haven't considered that. I assume that you are referring to the racks...the steering cable is sealed.

I assume that the "leaking grease" is coming from the rack housing at one end or the other. If I recall these ends are not perfectly sealed. And as the toothed rack moves back and forth, it could push excess grease toward the ends of the rack housing.

Keep in mind that it is the steel toothed racks inside each rack housing that will fail with excess wear and that excess wear will be very close to the center of each rack. I believe this is wear caused by the autopilot "back and forth motion." It may also be caused by securing the helm in a center position while anchored.

Amel SAV said that they are going to be sourcing these steel toothed racks and have them available, even though the original manufacturer, Ultraflex, has stopped producing them. See the worn rack below:
<image.png>


One rack has teeth pointed upward, the other rack teeth are pointed downward. Tooth orientation, along with primarily 
center wear, should be considered when adding grease/fitting.
<image.png>

Translation:Corrugated Washer ---- Teflon half-rings

<image.png>


Possibly, the cover shown below can be drilled to inject grease. If so, this would be a fairly easy modification that could possibly add years of service to the racks. 
I am worried that the metal is to thin to take a thread tap. If that is true, possibly it could be drilled, grease injected and a rubber plug inserted. I know there are a few owners who can answer this question. We may need a volunteer to study this further.
<image.png>



--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 1:55 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, For some years now I have had a minor leak of grease from the rack&pinion . What do you think about adding a nipple to put a little grease back into the unit .
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Nov 23, 2019 9:52 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables

The cables are sealed.

The racks and pinion have to be disassembled to add grease. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sat, Nov 23, 2019, 7:32 AM Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:
How and where do I Grease the Steering Cables?
arthur sundqvist
sm435. Vista
Fair winds.....
<image.png>
<image.png>
<image.png>
<image.png>
Re: Power Failure

Bill Fletcher
 

You need to get a meter and check the voltage at the main on off switch inside the engine compartment. If there is no voltage there there may be a fuse on the battery terminals that have blown. It is a place to start. 
Bill fletcher
Maramu sn179

On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 10:26 AM sbmesasailor via Groups.Io <sbmesasailor=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Electrical issues are not my strong suit.  I had my house battery alternator off for a rebuild.  I took my Maramu out for a day sail and upon return to the harbor, my house power failed -everything, not even a dome light will come on.  Battery monitor showed 95% charge so the batteries were not spent.  In the engine compartment I discovered that a cable from the alternator had grounded to the mounting bracket which is bolted to the engine mounts.  I hope I have just blown a main fuse somewhere but I don't know where to begin my search.  Any ideas?

Thanks
Dennis
Libertad
Maramu #121

Re: Greasing stegring cables

Patrick McAneny
 

Steve, I have only over the years lost no more than a 1/4 of a cup if that. Based on what you describe there seems to be adequate lubrication to spare, and as much as I am not looking for any additional projects ,I think I will then put this one on  the back burner.
Thanks for the insight,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Davis <flyboyscd@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Nov 24, 2019 11:20 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables

Hi Pat,

I would suggest you do not attempt to add a grease fitting to the Racks. The steel racks take up almost all the room inside the black housing they are fitted into, and I’m not sure you can find a place to put the nipple.  Even if you could, the grease is not going to circulate adequately around the racks. When I took my racks apart, they were still packed full of grease after 27 years. If you are losing a lot of grease from your racks, something is probably not right, and you should take them apart. If you are just losing very small amounts of grease, don’t worry, the racks are very full of grease. 

Just my two cents worth, but having replaced my entire steering system (racks, pinion, and cables), I have a fairly good understanding of how it works. 

Regards,

Steve Davis
Aloha SM72
Ko  Olina, Hawaii

On Nov 24, 2019, at 4:07 AM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...> wrote:


Bill , I may go ahead and try to add a nipple,if as you said the wall is too thin to tap , I will seal it by other means. I will in the future tie the wheel off center to spread the wear as per another owners suggestion a week or so back,a good idea. If the rack is steel, do you think it possible to replace the worn metal through welding in new material and then fashioning new teeth by filing.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Nov 23, 2019 4:19 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables

Pat,

I haven't considered that. I assume that you are referring to the racks...the steering cable is sealed.

I assume that the "leaking grease" is coming from the rack housing at one end or the other. If I recall these ends are not perfectly sealed. And as the toothed rack moves back and forth, it could push excess grease toward the ends of the rack housing.

Keep in mind that it is the steel toothed racks inside each rack housing that will fail with excess wear and that excess wear will be very close to the center of each rack. I believe this is wear caused by the autopilot "back and forth motion." It may also be caused by securing the helm in a center position while anchored.

Amel SAV said that they are going to be sourcing these steel toothed racks and have them available, even though the original manufacturer, Ultraflex, has stopped producing them. See the worn rack below:
<image.png>


One rack has teeth pointed upward, the other rack teeth are pointed downward. Tooth orientation, along with primarily 
center wear, should be considered when adding grease/fitting.
<image.png>

Translation:Corrugated Washer ---- Teflon half-rings

<image.png>


Possibly, the cover shown below can be drilled to inject grease. If so, this would be a fairly easy modification that could possibly add years of service to the racks. 
I am worried that the metal is to thin to take a thread tap. If that is true, possibly it could be drilled, grease injected and a rubber plug inserted. I know there are a few owners who can answer this question. We may need a volunteer to study this further.
<image.png>



--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 1:55 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, For some years now I have had a minor leak of grease from the rack&pinion . What do you think about adding a nipple to put a little grease back into the unit .
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Nov 23, 2019 9:52 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables

The cables are sealed.

The racks and pinion have to be disassembled to add grease. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sat, Nov 23, 2019, 7:32 AM Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:
How and where do I Grease the Steering Cables?
arthur sundqvist
sm435. Vista
Fair winds.....
<image.png>
<image.png>
<image.png>
<image.png>
Re: Greasing stegring cables

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

For everyone having rack problems, they are cast aluminium on our SM. Little wear showing on mine. 

Cheers

Jean-Pierre Germain. SY Eleuthera, SM 007



On 25/11/2019, at 3:07 AM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...> wrote:


Bill , I may go ahead and try to add a nipple,if as you said the wall is too thin to tap , I will seal it by other means. I will in the future tie the wheel off center to spread the wear as per another owners suggestion a week or so back,a good idea. If the rack is steel, do you think it possible to replace the worn metal through welding in new material and then fashioning new teeth by filing.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Nov 23, 2019 4:19 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables

Pat,

I haven't considered that. I assume that you are referring to the racks...the steering cable is sealed.

I assume that the "leaking grease" is coming from the rack housing at one end or the other. If I recall these ends are not perfectly sealed. And as the toothed rack moves back and forth, it could push excess grease toward the ends of the rack housing.

Keep in mind that it is the steel toothed racks inside each rack housing that will fail with excess wear and that excess wear will be very close to the center of each rack. I believe this is wear caused by the autopilot "back and forth motion." It may also be caused by securing the helm in a center position while anchored.

Amel SAV said that they are going to be sourcing these steel toothed racks and have them available, even though the original manufacturer, Ultraflex, has stopped producing them. See the worn rack below:
<image.png>


One rack has teeth pointed upward, the other rack teeth are pointed downward. Tooth orientation, along with primarily 
center wear, should be considered when adding grease/fitting.
<image.png>

Translation:Corrugated Washer ---- Teflon half-rings

<image.png>


Possibly, the cover shown below can be drilled to inject grease. If so, this would be a fairly easy modification that could possibly add years of service to the racks. 
I am worried that the metal is to thin to take a thread tap. If that is true, possibly it could be drilled, grease injected and a rubber plug inserted. I know there are a few owners who can answer this question. We may need a volunteer to study this further.
<image.png>



--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 1:55 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, For some years now I have had a minor leak of grease from the rack&pinion . What do you think about adding a nipple to put a little grease back into the unit .
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Nov 23, 2019 9:52 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables

The cables are sealed.

The racks and pinion have to be disassembled to add grease. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sat, Nov 23, 2019, 7:32 AM Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:
How and where do I Grease the Steering Cables?
arthur sundqvist
sm435. Vista
Fair winds.....
<image.png>
<image.png>
<image.png>
<image.png>
Power Failure

sbmesasailor
 

Electrical issues are not my strong suit.  I had my house battery alternator off for a rebuild.  I took my Maramu out for a day sail and upon return to the harbor, my house power failed -everything, not even a dome light will come on.  Battery monitor showed 95% charge so the batteries were not spent.  In the engine compartment I discovered that a cable from the alternator had grounded to the mounting bracket which is bolted to the engine mounts.  I hope I have just blown a main fuse somewhere but I don't know where to begin my search.  Any ideas?

Thanks
Dennis
Libertad
Maramu #121
7521 - 7540 of 56801