Date   
Re: Later model 54 & possibly 55 Furling Motor Seal Question

Alexander Hofmann
 

Hi Bill,

I have just had this problem. My in-main-mast-furler from 2010 was blocking (September in Ponta Delagada) due to a broken lip seal. The lip seal did break into pieces, did fall apart and water came in. Because of the lack of a purge (construction fault!) water did stay in the brake in the lower part of the furler cylinder and did corrode the brake up to compolete blocking. I have learned from Amel Yacht Owners Forum that this happens frequently. 
I received soon a new furler from  Amel (2,5 k€) which has a shaft seal instead of the lip seal and a purge at the bottom. Much better. 
Thomas Dargel from Boat&Sail Service in Ponta Delagada did  an excellent job in repairing the system for me: He did install 2 shaft seals instead of the lip seal, a purge near the bottom and he did re-activate the corroded brake. It needs a carefull synchronisation with the furler engine . Thomas did also find out the source of the brake and the exact part number. The manufacturer of the furler LEROY SOMER did not sell the brakes separately for selling complete systems. Bad business as usual :-). I did give this information to Maud Tuillaud from SAV AMEL. I give it to everybody who wants to have it. 
My decision is for my ship to re-install the old repaired furler - and have the new one as a spare part onboard. 
My advice to you is … do the same as Thomas did: Throw away the lip seal and find someone with a lathe to open the top platein a way  that you can install 1 or even better 2 shaft seals. Always water runs down the sail exactly on to the middle of the furler engine. The lip sail is not sufficient and a stable solution. 

If you require any further details contact me. 

Alexander
SY Oceanica I - Amel54 #156

Re: Mizzen furler

Mark McGovern
 

Pat,

Gary Silver uploaded a file with an excellent write-up on overhauling the Mizzen Furler called "SM Mizzen Furling Gearbox Overhaul".  You can find it in the files section if you search for "SM Mizzen Furling Gearbox Overhaul" or find the link at the bottom of this post:  https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/48035?p=,,,20,0,0,0::Created,,gary+silver+mizzen,20,2,0,34250823
--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Mizzen furler

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Pat,

"Gob smacked" is a Kiwi colloquialism (saying) for very, totally, completely, utterly  amazed. (and any other adjectives you can think of) The salt levels in the Caribbean are higher, or so it seemed to my observation. The build up of salt on the rails and the rust on stainless is much greater than other places. You have just had a season there which is why i am sure it is salt causing your "never before" problem. The tropical Pacific has similar salt issues and I find the same sort of thing affecting furlers, blocks, cars and anything else that moves. Many SM owners including me have found the mizzen hard to unfurl requiring some effort on the winch handles. Now I have eliminated the salt from all those points mine unfurls with a tug on the outhaul line, no winch winding needed, on either the outhaul or the gearbox.

I was "gob smacked"

Cheers

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 28 November 2019 at 02:40 "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32@...> wrote:

Danny, I wish we had not already drained our water system, the marina has as well, its starting to get cold here.I think I will take the gearbox apart and take home ,clean & grease. I may pull the masts to put the boat in a shed for repairs and to be repainted this winter . I am not really sure I want to be " gob smacked " ,sounds painful , but being married I am use to abuse, and if the mizzen furls easier that it might be worth it .
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans



-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 8:17 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Hi Pat,
Almost certain to be salt build up. The carribean salt is brutal. Rinse all moving parts with floods of fresh water. Over the top of the gearbox,up the input shaft, the swivel or spinner as I call it at the top of the sail. (Lower it first). all blocks, cars, turning blocks. Allow to dry and liberally apply silicone spray. You will be gob smacked at the result. To unfurl my mizzen since I did this I just pull the out haul by hand and brrrrrrt out it goes. I know its too simple and I expect some cynicism, but give it a try. 
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 27 November 2019 at 08:34 "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32@...> wrote:

When we unfurled the mizzen sail to store it for the winter the sail came out but then became difficult to turn. The furler will only turn about a quarter of the way either direction. Its not the swivel where the sail's head attaches . I have never had an issue with the furler until now. I suppose it could be the furler's gear box , but my question is. Is there a bearing at the top of the mast that may be causing the binding ? I need to decide to pull or not ,both of the masts by next Monday and put the boat in a shed to repaint ,or leave the mast up and have it painted outside. I was leaning towards leaving the masts up until this problem,if its a bearing at the top of the mast it would be easier to deal with on the ground.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
 

Re: Bimini Twist Lock Fastener

rossirossix4
 

Related--does anyone know a source for the white plastic fasteners that were used on the dodgers of many SMs and SNs?  They featured a tap that slid in to lock to the pin.  One of the advantages of these is that they held the canvas flat and very close to the fixed dodger sides.  Not at the boat so I don't have a pic.
Bob KAIMI SM 429

Re: Loose screws in portlight stainless trem

amelforme
 

Hi Duane. I used wooden toothpicks, preferably the tapered variety. Dip the ends that will go in the hole with any flexible  waterproof glue. When it sets up, cut the ends that extend outside the hole flush. If you get it right, no pilot hole needed and the screws will hold tight as originally.  The waterproof glue seals the hardwood toothpicks so the repair lasts a long time. All three Amel’s I’ve owned have this repair and so far nobody is complaining…

 

You and Peg have a great Thanksgiving, Joel       

 

       JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 3:42 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Loose screws in portlight stainless trem

 

I have a few loose screws in the stainless steel portlights.  I need to add something to make the screw tight.  These are very short wood screws (only two or three threads).

Most of the articles discuss filling the hole with epoxy, then redrilling a pilot hole.  I'm loath to do that since it would likely glue the stainless to the fiberglass.

I'm thinking of using something like 3M 5200 that sets up fairly hard and then run the screw into that.

Any thoughts or experiences out there?

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install

Dan Carlson
 

Thanks Alan,

That's helpful about the LN175 not being continuously rated. I had not seen that. In fact had seen that large body alternators loke the LN175 were better for handling the load.  That said, the WS500 regulator monitors both voltage and current at the battery and has a dip switch which will limit the alternator to 75% current output, it also has a temperature monitor that bolts onto one of the lugs which will also limits output based on alternator temperature.  And finally I will have a switch that I can flip to force the alternator into float mode. 

I will review the previous posts and pictures to see if there is anything that I have missed. 

Thanks and regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM# 387






On Wed, Nov 27, 2019, 12:01 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@... wrote:
Dan
I'm pretty sure that Bill and I put up all the relevant stuff.  I did it with a Next Step reg, but basically the wiring will be similar.
The wire you need is the field connection from the alternator, that's what the reg uses to control alternator output.
One caveat on this whole scenario is that you need to realise that the LN 175A alternator is not continuously rated 
So, with a 3 stage reg, if your batteries are quite discharged, the reg could command full output from the alternator and if your batteries are able to accept 175A, that's what you'll get... For a while until the alternator burns out! 
Solution is to also run the genset and the 100A charger until the charging current gets down to about 100A them turn off the genset.
Best solution is actually to change the alternator to an Idlepro Extreme or. Delstar, both of which can put out around 200A at just above idle.

You don't need to ask how I know this! 

Good luck

Alan
Elyse SM 437 

Re: Loose screws in portlight stainless trem

Mark McGovern
 

Duane,

I second Craig's suggestion.  Plus, if it fails in less than 50 years Craig will come and personally fix it for you. ;)

3M 5200 is known as "The Devil's Glue" and should really only be used on things that you never, ever, want to take apart again.  Offhand, I can't think of a single place on my SM that I would use it in place of something that is almost as strong but way more removable like 3M 4200. 

Here's a pretty good article on marine adhesives from Practical Sailor:  https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/36_8/features/Marine-Adhesives-Caulks_5953-1.html

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Mizzen furler

Patrick McAneny
 

Danny, I wish we had not already drained our water system, the marina has as well, its starting to get cold here.I think I will take the gearbox apart and take home ,clean & grease. I may pull the masts to put the boat in a shed for repairs and to be repainted this winter . I am not really sure I want to be " gob smacked " ,sounds painful , but being married I am use to abuse, and if the mizzen furls easier that it might be worth it .
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans



-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 8:17 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Hi Pat,
Almost certain to be salt build up. The carribean salt is brutal. Rinse all moving parts with floods of fresh water. Over the top of the gearbox,up the input shaft, the swivel or spinner as I call it at the top of the sail. (Lower it first). all blocks, cars, turning blocks. Allow to dry and liberally apply silicone spray. You will be gob smacked at the result. To unfurl my mizzen since I did this I just pull the out haul by hand and brrrrrrt out it goes. I know its too simple and I expect some cynicism, but give it a try. 
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 27 November 2019 at 08:34 "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32@...> wrote:

When we unfurled the mizzen sail to store it for the winter the sail came out but then became difficult to turn. The furler will only turn about a quarter of the way either direction. Its not the swivel where the sail's head attaches . I have never had an issue with the furler until now. I suppose it could be the furler's gear box , but my question is. Is there a bearing at the top of the mast that may be causing the binding ? I need to decide to pull or not ,both of the masts by next Monday and put the boat in a shed to repaint ,or leave the mast up and have it painted outside. I was leaning towards leaving the masts up until this problem,if its a bearing at the top of the mast it would be easier to deal with on the ground.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install

Alan Leslie
 

Dan
I'm pretty sure that Bill and I put up all the relevant stuff.  I did it with a Next Step reg, but basically the wiring will be similar.
The wire you need is the field connection from the alternator, that's what the reg uses to control alternator output.
One caveat on this whole scenario is that you need to realise that the LN 175A alternator is not continuously rated 
So, with a 3 stage reg, if your batteries are quite discharged, the reg could command full output from the alternator and if your batteries are able to accept 175A, that's what you'll get... For a while until the alternator burns out! 
Solution is to also run the genset and the 100A charger until the charging current gets down to about 100A them turn off the genset.
Best solution is actually to change the alternator to an Idlepro Extreme or. Delstar, both of which can put out around 200A at just above idle.

You don't need to ask how I know this! 

Good luck

Alan
Elyse SM 437 

Re: Mizzen furler

James Alton
 

Pat and Craig,

   That is very interesting that apparently the SM and SN do not have any kind of top bearing for the main and mizzen furler extrusions,  I learned something too!   My boat does have a bearing of some sort at the top,  I have not gotten in there yet to see what it is. If I drop the gear box and disengage it from the extrusion it just hangs there from the top bearing/pivot. My boat is the Maramu so apparently was built differently.  

   Best of luck Pat with solving your problem.

James
Maramu #220

On Nov 26, 2019, at 8:41 PM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...> wrote:

Craig, I assumed that there had to be a bearing at the top of the extrusion and did not realize the swizel served double duty . That is a very helpful piece of info ,and yes I did get the sail down. I guess that is all I need to know ,looks like a gearbox problem.
Thank You,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io <sangaris@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 6:17 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Hi Pat,
There is not an upper extrusion bearing up there - it's just the swivel that centers the furling extrusion when the sail is up. With the sail down the extrusion just bangs around freely. Same as the mainsail. Not sure from your post if you got the sail down - sounds like you did - so if it is still binding with the sail down it has to be at the bottom. 
Sounds like you're not in desperate aesthetic need to repaint so the economical choice may be to leave the masts up and work on the bottom in situ.
Fwiw, Craig

Re: Mizzen furler

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Pat,

Almost certain to be salt build up. The carribean salt is brutal. Rinse all moving parts with floods of fresh water. Over the top of the gearbox,up the input shaft, the swivel or spinner as I call it at the top of the sail. (Lower it first). all blocks, cars, turning blocks. Allow to dry and liberally apply silicone spray. You will be gob smacked at the result. To unfurl my mizzen since I did this I just pull the out haul by hand and brrrrrrt out it goes. I know its too simple and I expect some cynicism, but give it a try. 

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 27 November 2019 at 08:34 "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32@...> wrote:

When we unfurled the mizzen sail to store it for the winter the sail came out but then became difficult to turn. The furler will only turn about a quarter of the way either direction. Its not the swivel where the sail's head attaches . I have never had an issue with the furler until now. I suppose it could be the furler's gear box , but my question is. Is there a bearing at the top of the mast that may be causing the binding ? I need to decide to pull or not ,both of the masts by next Monday and put the boat in a shed to repaint ,or leave the mast up and have it painted outside. I was leaning towards leaving the masts up until this problem,if its a bearing at the top of the mast it would be easier to deal with on the ground.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

Re: Mizzen furler

Patrick McAneny
 

Craig, I assumed that there had to be a bearing at the top of the extrusion and did not realize the swizel served double duty . That is a very helpful piece of info ,and yes I did get the sail down. I guess that is all I need to know ,looks like a gearbox problem.
Thank You,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io <sangaris@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 6:17 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Hi Pat,
There is not an upper extrusion bearing up there - it's just the swivel that centers the furling extrusion when the sail is up. With the sail down the extrusion just bangs around freely. Same as the mainsail. Not sure from your post if you got the sail down - sounds like you did - so if it is still binding with the sail down it has to be at the bottom. 
Sounds like you're not in desperate aesthetic need to repaint so the economical choice may be to leave the masts up and work on the bottom in situ.
Fwiw, Craig

Re: Bimini Twist Lock Fastener

Will Stout <tango708@...>
 

Hi Paul,
I am fairly certain that you will find the twist lock at Grenadine Sails and Canvass in Bequia.  Avell and Debora have a web site through which you can contact them.  They do excellent work... definitely make the best and least expensive dinghy chap I found in the Caribbean.



Will Stout
SM 180, For Sale in The Chesapeake 
/)/) Anni Bea True
Amel Super Maramu
+206.841.9556

Re: Mizzen furler

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Hi Pat,
There is not an upper extrusion bearing up there - it's just the swivel that centers the furling extrusion when the sail is up. With the sail down the extrusion just bangs around freely. Same as the mainsail. Not sure from your post if you got the sail down - sounds like you did - so if it is still binding with the sail down it has to be at the bottom. 
Sounds like you're not in desperate aesthetic need to repaint so the economical choice may be to leave the masts up and work on the bottom in situ.
Fwiw, Craig

Re: Loose screws in portlight stainless trem

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Toothpicks, broken off to length, work fine. Add silicone when the screw goes in. Guaranteed for 50 years.
Cheers, Craig

Re: Lithium Ion Battery teardowns

 

Nick,

There are a number brands of "drop-in" Lithium-Ion batteries with internal BMS on the market. As you can see from the Battle Born teardown, not all of these are created equal.

Regarding the small cylindrical Lithium battery cells, Tesla batteries are made of many small Panasonic Lithium batteries. 

Here is a closeup of a Tesla battery with the small Panasonic cells. Those cells are about 20mm in diameter. This screen shot taken from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWjG3REOF-M
image.png

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Tue, Nov 26, 2019 at 1:18 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,
Wow that does look interesting. 
A drop in replacement and no additional BMS.
What is the catch?
I am not yet in the market as my Lifeline AGM’s are only two years old and they get filled to 100 percent most of the time.
Maybe in 5 years time...
Nick
Amelia 
Kilada Greece


On 25 Nov 2019, at 22:31, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


I found 2 YouTube videos on Lithium Ion batteries that I really like. The batteries were disassembled by Will Prowse:  https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/lithium-batteries.html.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


Re: Mizzen furler

Patrick McAneny
 

James, I realize there must be some sort of bearing at the top of the mast, I guess I should be asking if anyone has had a problem with it seizing up. I will take your suggestion and seperate  the gearbox from the extrusion ,that will confirm where the problem is located.
Thanks,
Pat 
SM #123


-----Original Message-----
From: James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 4:09 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Pat,

   I would try detaching/disengaging the mizzen furlers gearbox from the extrusion.  This would allow you to determine where the binding is.  I will leave the specifics of how to detach the extrusion to other SM owners since my boat is a Maramu and the process might be different.  To your other question, yes there has to be a bearing at the top of the mast as well.  

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Nov 26, 2019, at 3:34 PM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...> wrote:

When we unfurled the mizzen sail to store it for the winter the sail came out but then became difficult to turn. The furler will only turn about a quarter of the way either direction. Its not the swivel where the sail's head attaches . I have never had an issue with the furler until now. I suppose it could be the furler's gear box , but my question is. Is there a bearing at the top of the mast that may be causing the binding ? I need to decide to pull or not ,both of the masts by next Monday and put the boat in a shed to repaint ,or leave the mast up and have it painted outside. I was leaning towards leaving the masts up until this problem,if its a bearing at the top of the mast it would be easier to deal with on the ground.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

Re: Mizzen furler

James Alton
 

Pat,

   I would try detaching/disengaging the mizzen furlers gearbox from the extrusion.  This would allow you to determine where the binding is.  I will leave the specifics of how to detach the extrusion to other SM owners since my boat is a Maramu and the process might be different.  To your other question, yes there has to be a bearing at the top of the mast as well.  

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Nov 26, 2019, at 3:34 PM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...> wrote:

When we unfurled the mizzen sail to store it for the winter the sail came out but then became difficult to turn. The furler will only turn about a quarter of the way either direction. Its not the swivel where the sail's head attaches . I have never had an issue with the furler until now. I suppose it could be the furler's gear box , but my question is. Is there a bearing at the top of the mast that may be causing the binding ? I need to decide to pull or not ,both of the masts by next Monday and put the boat in a shed to repaint ,or leave the mast up and have it painted outside. I was leaning towards leaving the masts up until this problem,if its a bearing at the top of the mast it would be easier to deal with on the ground.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

Loose screws in portlight stainless trem

Duane Siegfri
 
Edited

I have a few loose screws in the stainless steel trim for the portlights.  I need to add something to make the screws tight.  These are very short wood screws (only two or three threads).

Most of the articles discuss filling the hole with epoxy, then redrilling a pilot hole.  I'm loath to do that since it would likely glue the stainless to the fiberglass.

I'm thinking of using something like 3M 5200 that sets up fairly hard and then run the screw into that.

Any thoughts or experiences out there?

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Mizzen furler

Patrick McAneny
 

When we unfurled the mizzen sail to store it for the winter the sail came out but then became difficult to turn. The furler will only turn about a quarter of the way either direction. Its not the swivel where the sail's head attaches . I have never had an issue with the furler until now. I suppose it could be the furler's gear box , but my question is. Is there a bearing at the top of the mast that may be causing the binding ? I need to decide to pull or not ,both of the masts by next Monday and put the boat in a shed to repaint ,or leave the mast up and have it painted outside. I was leaning towards leaving the masts up until this problem,if its a bearing at the top of the mast it would be easier to deal with on the ground.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans