The foam backed headliner/ wallcovering that Amel used
in 1989 on my Maramu is falling down/off as it seems
the foam has dissolved .
Does anyone have a good replacement product that will
solve this problem ?
If so , please respond as all my attempts to repair have
been unsatisfactory to date .
Thanks in advance.
Terry

Blue Water Toilet Flush

Hi John & Vito,

yes I did read with interest what John is trying to do. For Crusader I bought an inline unit from West Marine (sorry but I don't have a catalogue to hand). However it was the type that has a screw cap and pipe outlets on each side and takes cylindrical solid pellets of the blue stuff. I mounted it to a bracket that I made which was then riveted above the water maker inlet filter. I cut the feed to one of the toilet sea water pumps and connected it to the unit. I then tee'd both pumps to the outlet side, having removed and capped one of the feed pipes from the manifold on the forward engine room bulkhead.

It worked well, though the supplied pellets did not last long, so I ended up by buying regular household pellets and breaking them into small pieces with a pair of pliers ...it's cheaper but messy! The trick of using these cheaper pellets is only to use a small piece at a time, else you get a sludge in the dispensing unit that blocks up the tiny exit holes.

I am sure that it helped with the 'smell' problem, though it is messy and you can end up getting the blue all over the place! For my new boat, I shall try a couple of those pellet holders that simply hang from the inside of the toilet bowl. I have seen them on another yacht and they seem to work well, though it won't cure the stagnant water problem when the boat is left unattended. The only way that I see to cure that is either to connect to the fresh water tank (via a swan neck), or for Amel to have an inlet adjacent to each toilet, as is done on most boats. However, I fully understand that they do not do this in order to stick to their philosophy of minimising through hull connections.

I would appreciate feedback from anyone who is successfully flushing their toilets from the fresh water tank.

Regards

Ian Shepherd

SM #299

Has anyone got access to the Stabilty Curve for the Santorin, my wife
would like to be reassured? I feel sure that all is well but I must
convince the First Mate.

Hola a todos !

Veo que el foro se desarrolla solamente en inglés, y lamentablemente no puedo plantear mi consulta en dicho idioma, ya que no lo domino. De todas formas, adjuntaré una traducción de ordenador de este escrito.
La pregunta es
¿Alguien puede darme referencias sobre el funcionamiento del piloto WindPilot en un SM, o mejor aún, en un Mango?
¿Es aconsejable? ¿Eficaz? ¿A que rumbos? ¿Con cuanto viento?
En las referencias que da WindPilot he visto tanto un SM como un Mango (Easy Lady de Houston), pero no se si entre los asiduos al foro habrá algún usuario de este piloto de viento.

Gracias y .... buen viento a todos

Juan García
Mango 56


Hello to all!

I see that the forum is only developed in English, and regrettably I cannot outline my consultation in this language, since I don't dominate him. In all ways, I will attach a translation of computer in this writing.
The question is
Can somebody give me references of the pilot's operation WindPilot in a SM, or better still, in a Mango?
Is it advisable? Effective? To what bearings? With how much wind?
In the references that he gives WindPilot I have seen as much a SM as a Mango (Easy Lady of Houston), but I not know if among the regular to the forum will have a user this pilot of wind .

Thank you and.... good wind to all

Juan García
Mango 56


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have had good luck on my SM 2000 minimizing any smell from the
toilets by closing the sea water inlet and running fresh water
through the strainer from a dockside hose when I am ready to leave
the boat for any appreciable length of time. I turn on the engine,
the generator, the A/C and have someone flush each toilet for 30
seconds or so while the fresh water is flowing throught the sea water
inlet. Thus, all the systems have been flushed clean of salt water.
I have left the boat for as long as 2 months using this method and
there was never any smell on my return. I also recommend you pour a
bottle of white vinegar down each head about 1x a month. According
to Cruising World magazine, it should take care of calcium deposits
in the toilet lines (which once caused me a long afternoon of
disassembling the line coming off the head and breaking up the
calcium deposits plugging it up). Don't leave the vinegar standing
too long as it can reportedly do damage to the rubber parts in the
pump if left in contact over time. I hope this is some help.
Mike Glass
Second Call

Hi Vito
Given the shape of the stern and if esthetique is of your concern it will be very difficult to find some davits that can lift your tender to an acceptable and safe high while sailing in rough sea.
I'm using the SM boomerang type. I use them mostly at night while mooring in order to avoid to get my tender stolen. I also use them while motoring and sailing in light medium winds. It does a reasonable good job provided that you tie the tender up to prevent any swinging. In rough sea I simply lift the tender either on the forward deck (but it blocks your forward vision) or the rear sun deck. I have been hit a couple of time downwind by some big breaking waves and I don't know in such circumstances of any davit which could resist the pressure of the water being applied on the tender. Not to mention the effect of the large amount of water which would be trapped in the tender.
To hold the tender I'm using some quick release spring hook. If I need to clear the stern and move the tender forward quickly while maneuvering in a marina either to take a mooring or to refuel I just release the hooks and the tender will fall into the water. One crew can then pull it forward
My tender is 3.20 hard hull zodiac. If I lift it on the rear sun deck it is slightly too long to be able to use the after mast sail sheet as it is.
As such I tie a vectran strap between the two eye bolt located on port and starboard usually used to hook the after mast ballooner block. This strap has three boucles, one on starboard one in the middle and one on port side. I then remove the after mast sail sheet block from its traveler and I lock it up on one of the boucle, depending on the wind direction,thus I can still use the after mast sail. You might need to lengthen your sheet to do so.
I hope this will help you.
Best regards
Erick Mejean






----Original Message Follows----
From: asm283 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Davits for Super Maramu
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 23:02:28 -0000

I am looking into buying davits for my SM 2000. I have spoken to a
few manufactures and they dont seem to have any solid ideas on how to
mount a set on the SM. The concern is that the stern rail does not go
all the way around and may be a weak point. Also the position of
backstays are challange. I have seen the pictures that are posted on
this site. However, the boat looks a little low on the davits. Has
anyone out ther come up with a design that works.

Thank you

Vito Ciaravino

ASM 283
Wanderer



_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus

I am looking into buying davits for my SM 2000. I have spoken to a
few manufactures and they dont seem to have any solid ideas on how to
mount a set on the SM. The concern is that the stern rail does not go
all the way around and may be a weak point. Also the position of
backstays are challange. I have seen the pictures that are posted on
this site. However, the boat looks a little low on the davits. Has
anyone out ther come up with a design that works.

Thank you

Vito Ciaravino

ASM 283
Wanderer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John Martin"
Hi John How are you enjoying your new boat. I read in Crusaders web
site that Ian had found a device that was connected in line with the
sea water intake for the toilet. This device let out a steady stream
of blue liquid whenever the toilet is flushed. Ian if you read this
maybe you can give us some info on what it was. The sea water can
smell pretty bad if you leave the boat for any lenght of time. What I
did on my boat if I knew I was not going to be there for a few weeks
is. I would open the raw water strainer and pour in a little blue
liquid,the same as you would pour in your holding tank,. I then would
pump the heads untill the blue stuff came trough. This worked well as
the blue liquid mixed with the water killed any organisims in the
salt water and stopped the smell. The other alternative is to use the
heads on a regular basis.

Vito Ciaravino

<jjmartin24@h...> wrote:

Dear Jean
Thanks very much for the prompt reply. Regarding your first point,

yest my plan was to Tee into the fresh water before it gets to the
pump that pressurizes the fresh water system. So it would seem to me
this would not put pressure on the toilet system, it should be the
same as the salt water input from the sea chest. You also have a
good point about toilet water backing into the fresh water tank. If
I installed a check valve (a valve that only lets water flow in one
direction) at the Tee, many feet away from the toilets, wouldn't
this take care of the toilet water backing into the fresh water tank ?

Thanks again
John Martin
SM 248 "Moon Dog"
----- Original Message -----
From: jboucharla@a...
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2003 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 3 topics


Fresh water to toilet bowl

If you want to do that you should remember that on a live ship

the fresh

water system is constantly pressurised and therefore fresh water

will be

continuously seeping into your toilet bowl and draining your

fresh water

tank. To avoid that you need a solenoid valve switched on by the

red toilet

flush button to open the fresh water line when you do flush and

keep it

closed otherwise. Also you should be careful about the

possibility of your

toilet bowl water backing into your fresh water tank with all

attendant

problems.....

To avoid such problems you would have to run a fresh water pipe

direct from

the tank to the toilet flush sea water hull intake (before the

flush sea

water pump) and Tee it there. This involves more pipe runs in

awkward places

but would be the safest way of doing it, both avoiding the

constant pressure

problem and the potential water flow back from the bowl.

I had discussed this issue with Amel for my boat when ordering

her but they

did not want to do it then. They'll come to it some day.

Good luck,

Jean Boucharlat
SM 212 "Satchimi"





Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT




To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of

Service.

Yes, you're right concerning the fresh water pressure and the check valve.
It does remain that the toilet pump itself (the one in the toilet bowl base)
will not be able to draw fresh water from your tank. It is only designed to
move the water that is already in the bowl while also macerating.

To get fresh water into your bowl you will need at some point in the fresh
water line a pump controlled by the red flush button. Here your choice is
either to use the existing seawater pump and tee it, but piping becomes a bit
complex, or install a completely independent pump. If you go for the second
solution you will also need an electric switchover from one (freshwater) to
the other (saltwater) pump in order to avoid running both together.

One possible solution, if using the original seawater pump, would be to move
it behind the toilet bowl and on the right, but, judging from your hull
number, you probably have the airconditionning compressor assembly installed
there which does not leave much room for extra equipment.

All the best.

Jean Boucharlat

Dear Jean
Thanks very much for the prompt reply. Regarding your first point, yest my plan was to Tee into the fresh water before it gets to the pump that pressurizes the fresh water system. So it would seem to me this would not put pressure on the toilet system, it should be the same as the salt water input from the sea chest. You also have a good point about toilet water backing into the fresh water tank. If I installed a check valve (a valve that only lets water flow in one direction) at the Tee, many feet away from the toilets, wouldn't this take care of the toilet water backing into the fresh water tank ?
Thanks again
John Martin
SM 248 "Moon Dog"

Hello All

Has anyone with an SM connected their toilets to the ship's fresh water supply ? I have studied the plumbing and it seems it would be easy. I would cut the salt water intake hose for the toilets and insert a valve. Then I would cut the fresh water hose (before it goes to the pump) and place a valve there with a hose teed to the salt water intake. I would then cut off the salt water and open the fresh water. This would make the toilets smell fresher and be less corrosive to the toilet components than salt water. If berthed at a marina with abundant fresh water, it seems like this would be a good idea, especially if in a dirty harbor. When going cruising, I could easily convert back to the salt water flush. I would welcome any comments.

Also, in reading up on the SM, I've found a little known problem regarding the proper lifting points (when using straps, not hooking to the lifting eyes) for the boat. It appears that the proper place for the aft lifting straps is exactly where the aft lifting eye is located; but the proper place for the forward lifting strap is aligned with the hatch of the forward head, not aligned with the forward lifting eye. If you position the forward strap at the forward eye, you can easily damage the speedo unit, which is aligned with the forward eye. Some SM owners have mysteriously developed leaks around their speedos and this may be the reason.

Lastly, a pointer I just discovered using naval jelly. I've had amazing results using naval jelly to clean up stainless and chrome items like fishing reels, diving equipment, turnbuckles, etc. I apply the naval jelly, scrub with a toothbrush, let sit for 10 minutes, and the pieces turn out like brand new !

Happy New Year to all,

John Martin
SM #248 "Moon Dog"




_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus

Fresh water to toilet bowl

If you want to do that you should remember that on a live ship the fresh
water system is constantly pressurised and therefore fresh water will be
continuously seeping into your toilet bowl and draining your fresh water
tank. To avoid that you need a solenoid valve switched on by the red toilet
flush button to open the fresh water line when you do flush and keep it
closed otherwise. Also you should be careful about the possibility of your
toilet bowl water backing into your fresh water tank with all attendant
problems.....

To avoid such problems you would have to run a fresh water pipe direct from
the tank to the toilet flush sea water hull intake (before the flush sea
water pump) and Tee it there. This involves more pipe runs in awkward places
but would be the safest way of doing it, both avoiding the constant pressure
problem and the potential water flow back from the bowl.

I had discussed this issue with Amel for my boat when ordering her but they
did not want to do it then. They'll come to it some day.

Good luck,

Jean Boucharlat
SM 212 "Satchimi"

For your information and in case you have similar problem :
The Onan technician changed the AVR printed circuit board on the
geneset and promised that the leak problem has been solved.
Everything was free of charge as it was under warranty. I hope that
everything is ok now.

Regards
Dimitris Krassopoulos
SM Alma Libre

"Sugar"
JY. Selo is the head of Amel After-sales Department.
Phone: +33(0)546 55 17 31
Fax: +33(0)546 45 43 03
Email: amel@amel.fr

What you are after is:
Jeu de silentblocs caoutchoucs moteur 4108

Best regards,
-Adam

Hi,

Thanks for the feedback. It seems that the problem is in the generator
circuit. The Onan representative promised to replace a printed circuit that
might solve the problem. I will let you know when I have the problem solved.
However I believe that the 12 V design needs an improvement and the first I
will install is a system to monitor the 12 V battery condition before trying
to start the engine without sucess near a lee shore.

Best Regards

Dimitris Krassopoulos
S/Y Alma Libre

Thanks Adam,
Appreciate the advice. Perhaps you have contact details of who in
Amel we should ask as we did send Amel an email with on response.
Thanks for the help.
Regards
Chris & Millie

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "amelmango
<chiefnelson@h...>" <chiefnelson@h...> wrote:

"Sugar"
Not sure about your Sharki, but on my Mango Amel with a Perkins

4-

236, Amel made the engine mounts in-house. They are very good

mounts

and when it was time to replace the rubber isolation pieces Amel

had

them in stock. Not only that, but they were 1/4 of the price of

new

Perkins mounts even if you find them in some size that would fit.
Replacing the rubber was straightforward once I had the mounts on

the

bench, so contact Amel and I'd bet they'll be able to help you out.
Best Regards,
-Adam

If the battry goes flat so quickly then there must be problem with
some component of the main engine or genset.If it were me I would
call in a diesel mechanic.
We have left our SM319 Bali Hai for months unattended and the
batteries have all been fine on our return.
Let us know the final solution please.

There is a switch under the nav station on kimberlite that must be
turned off when i leave her. this switch runs the memory on the
stereo, electronic barometer, and other things on the boat. it is
separately fused and bypasses the main battery switch. If you have
this setup, this might be the problem.
eric




--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd" <g4ljf@c...>
wrote:

Hi,

You really must have a problem with the 12V circuit. I have left

Crusader for a month without any problem starting either the main
engine or generator. I would suggest that you start the gen set
first as the starting load is less than the main engine, and it's
12V alternator will put something back into the 12V battery. You
might want to disconnect the positive lead of the 12V battery and
put your test meter in series with it and the positive post to see
if there is any current being drawn when both engines are off. As
far as I am aware, all the 12V circuitry is supplied via the DC/DC
converters that are fed from the 24V bank, so I believe that there
should be no drain at all off the 12V battery.

I have often left the boat for 2 week periods also without any

problem, though admittedly in warm climates. Maybe if you are
leaving Alma Libre in a very cold environment, you might have a
potential starting problem due to the oil thickening in the engine,
but I would guess it would have to be mighty cold for that to happen.

Good Luck

Ian Shepherd

SM299

"Sugar"
Not sure about your Sharki, but on my Mango Amel with a Perkins 4-
236, Amel made the engine mounts in-house. They are very good mounts
and when it was time to replace the rubber isolation pieces Amel had
them in stock. Not only that, but they were 1/4 of the price of new
Perkins mounts even if you find them in some size that would fit.
Replacing the rubber was straightforward once I had the mounts on the
bench, so contact Amel and I'd bet they'll be able to help you out.
Best Regards,
-Adam

Hi,

You really must have a problem with the 12V circuit. I have left Crusader for a month without any problem starting either the main engine or generator. I would suggest that you start the gen set first as the starting load is less than the main engine, and it's 12V alternator will put something back into the 12V battery. You might want to disconnect the positive lead of the 12V battery and put your test meter in series with it and the positive post to see if there is any current being drawn when both engines are off. As far as I am aware, all the 12V circuitry is supplied via the DC/DC converters that are fed from the 24V bank, so I believe that there should be no drain at all off the 12V battery.

I have often left the boat for 2 week periods also without any problem, though admittedly in warm climates. Maybe if you are leaving Alma Libre in a very cold environment, you might have a potential starting problem due to the oil thickening in the engine, but I would guess it would have to be mighty cold for that to happen.

Good Luck

Ian Shepherd

SM299