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Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage
Same instruction for Amel 54 with Volkswagen 140 tdI Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162
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Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage
ngtnewington Newington
The anti syphon loop should prevent any water making it into the muffler box even when healed on starboard tack.
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Many boats have the engine exhaust in the transom and it is said that in certain conditions a wave may slam into the stern forcing water into the engine, but I have never experienced this on a sailing boat. I think some sport fishing boats are prone to this, when backing into a sea once a big fish is hooked. Not our problem. Can it happen with a sea from the port side? Maybe; I do not know. So far I have not had a problem, between the WI and Greece and a bit of to-ing and fro-ing between. When I purchased Amelia in Grenada, I of course read the Amel literature on board, cover to cover and made note of that piece of text. It rather goes against my philosophy, now that I have solar and wind generated power. So I have not used the engine at sea just to blast water through the exhaust system. What I do however is keep a good eye on the anti syphon system for both engine and generator. I also note that the bilge pump on the 54 does not have an anti syphon loop as the original one is a diaphram type and thus not prone to syphoning. So in conclusion I do not bother to run the engine daily. More like every few days or once a week whilst at sea. In practice it is only on longish passages that this is relevant. If the winds are light it is no inconvenience to run the engine for half an hour to get hot water, but when it is windy I hate to run the engine at all. So I do not. I am interested to hear if anyone has had a problem with this. Regarding the Volvo D3. I am happy with mine so far…..fingers crossed. Nick Amelia AML 54-019 Stored ashore in Kilada Greece
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Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage
The same instruction is in our SM manual with the Yanmar engine, so I doubt it's a Volvo issue. I think the 54 has the same Vetus exhaust setup as the SM.
We certainly do it when sailing passages, particularly important when on starboard tack for long periods as the exhaust outlet is buried in the water. Personally I wouldn't put much faith in the flap valve (I hesitate to call it a one-way valve - it's more one way than the other but by no means water tight) Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage
Porter McRoberts
No you’re not the only one. We do it too.
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But our engine did fail, but it wasn’t a flooded engine scenario, but rather bad cylinder liners. A new engine. H version has been running well from Panama to New Zealand. I think it is good advice, on really any engine or configuration, if not sea water, sea mist and air get into the remaining open cylinder through the open valve. But a question to those who know much more than I re this scenario: doesn’t the muffler reduce flow from the external boat to the engine? And also, the one way exhaust valve, at the exit of the exhaust from the hull, also reduce back flow? Best of luck Scott Porter A54-152
On Jan 6, 2020, at 9:22 PM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
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Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage
Scott SV Tengah
Given the spate of failed Volvo D3-110 engines and more than a few with seawater found in the cylinders, I am inclined to believe that there is a design weakness in the exhaust system on A54s. I do not know if the exhaust system is significantly different on the SM and other prior models but it does seem we only hear of flooded A54 engines.
In any event, I read the following in my manual and at least two other A54 owners had never heard this advice: "You must run the main engine everyday of sailing for 15 or 20 minutes (in 1 or 2 times) to drain the exhaust circuit from the seawater the waves that fill in it." Am I the only one who does this? -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard
Mike Ondra
Hi Duane, I initially replaced with a standard bolt temporarily, and then replaced that with the eye-bolt much later. And as I have been remembering, I believe one of these I couldn’t even get out with the upward force. As I recall I cut it off high enough to get a vise grip on the bolt so it wouldn’t spin, and then drilled it out, small drill first down the center, then larger drills until all the bolt material was removed. This was a difficult operation. Good luck, Mike
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io
Thanks Mike,
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Re: ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard
Duane Siegfri
Thanks Mike,
I'm glad to hear someone else had the same problem and that the only solution was to pull up on it. I was going to be surprised if there was a nut buried under fiberglass that was free to spin. I'll try putting a halyard on it and see what happens. Finding the replacement bolt down here will be the bigger issue. Thanks, Duane Currently in Guadalupe
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Re: ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard
Duane Siegfri
Hi Gary,
Sounds logical, but alas, there is no access from inside that I can find. Not even from the wiring compartment for the main mast. Thanks, Duane
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My schedule has a small hole in it
I plan to arrive in Rome, Italy on 6 April. I have no plans until 14 April when I have a training session in Marseilles, France. I plan to be back in Galveston 18-19 April. This might be an opportunity for me to help someone in Italy or France. Bill --
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Re: Recommentation for Sharki second autopilot
GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
Hi Volker,
Your Sharki 176 had a longer mizzen boom than the older models and it over hangs the transom and is likely to foul a windvane unless you with lift the boom. I have seen it done with the clew of the mizzen being recut and raised by a foot or two. It looks strange but it works. My preference was to fit a Raymarine Type 2 short linear drive directly to the rudder stock as I had only just made and fitted a bathing platform on the transom and wanted to be able to use it for boarding. I mounted on it the Std side in the aft cabin. Space is tight but it will fit under the berth. Getting the geometry correct when making the rudder tiller bracket was interesting but simple enough. I used changeover switch mounted above the rotary drive above the galley to switch between the linear and rotary drives. A forty amp four pole switch was used as you need to switch the clutch connections as well as the motor supply. The course computer is a Raymarine S2 with associated fluxgate compass and rudder indicator. Both the rotary and linear drive have the same designation within the computer software and so no adjustment is necessary when switching drives. I bought a complete new S2 package off Ebay to duplicate the whole control system which could be sold in the future. Fitting a gyro made downwind sailing much more comfortable. The system has worked now for some eight or nine years and 10,000 nm or more including two Transats. If all the files were transferred from the Yahoo forum then photos of the installation should be on this forum. Regards, Graham Sharki 181
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Re: ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard
Gary Silver
Hi Duane: Are you referring to the ring bolt on top of the toe-rail just forward of the main mast chainplate? If so you may find that it is secured from the back side with a nut instead of the mild steel imbedded in fiberglass method. Several items, including some to the toe-rail mounted cleats are fixed from inside with nuts. I can't remember for sure if the eye-bolt (aka ring-bolt) is one of them. If it is, you can access it from within the starboard side hanging locker across from the forward head. There is some foam stuffed up into the channel that is the underside of the toe-rail, pull that down at the area where the bolt would be and see if there isn't a nut on the back side.
Hope this helps. Gary S. Silver, M.D. s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 # 335 Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico Tip of the day. AC issues are capacitor caused until proven otherwise. Just swapped out three more this trip.
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Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)
It is only the central stern one that suffers from this problem. The others are mounted on the gunwales, those are solid glass.
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Re: ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard
Mike Ondra
Hi Duane, We had a similar experience with this bolt on Aletes. The stbd eye bolt spun but would not extract. As I recall we contrived an assembly (leverage) to exert considerable upward force on the bolt and then turned it out. The port eyebolt sheared off so we drilled it out (with cobalt bit) and re-tapped the steel backer plate and installed the next size up British thread bolt. Neither job was easy. Attached rub rail drawing. Best of luck, Mike Ondra Aletes SM#240 Martinique
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io
I am working on the rusting bolts securing the stanchions. There is a ringbolt on the stbd side (used to secure the halyard for the ballooner) on top of the bulwark that has some rust. It appeared to be secured in the same way the stanchion base bolts are - threaded into embedded steel plates.
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ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard
Duane Siegfri
I am working on the rusting bolts securing the stanchions. There is a ringbolt on the stbd side (used to secure the halyard for the ballooner) on top of the bulwark that has some rust. It appeared to be secured in the same way the stanchion base bolts are - threaded into embedded steel plates.
When I tried turning the bolt out it moved with the expected effort on a 12 inch long wrench, by which I mean it's not twisted off. No matter how many rotations it does not advance out of the bulwark more than 1/8th of an inch or so. I'm assuming that somehow in the past someone stripped the threads, but it won't just pop out either. It's just forward of the mast so I looked in the wire compartment that feeds the mast and there is no nut evident. The only conclusion I can come to is that the ringbolt is stripped...any other ideas? Thanks, Duane Wanderer
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Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)
I am very surprised that Amel used coring material in a thru hole area...
On my Amel 50, they use solid glass and a massive backing plate to support the railing and cleats. I thought they have always been doing it this way. s/v Paloma Amel 50, #18
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Re: New companionway lock source
Arlo
Hello Karen, that would be awesome. We are in Port Canaveral but will ping you our next trip to Lighthouse Point. How long will you be in Fort lauderdale? Really appreciate the offer. I can also order a few Y2's to see if they work.
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
Kaplan,Andre
Thanks Tom
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Very helpful
Andre
On Jan 5, 2020, at 9:18 AM, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
Peter Killen
Have you considered checking your hot water immersion tank? I had the same problem on Pure Magic when we owned her and found that the thermostat had failed. Once replaced, the problem was solved.
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Regards Peter Killen
On 5 Jan 2020, at 10:16, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:
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Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)
Thanks perfect
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On Jan 5, 2020, at 8:17 AM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
Thomas Peacock
Hi Andre,
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Not sure about dimensions on the Mango, it worked well on my SM. Check your holes and clearance above the sink. I used "Comllen Commercial Stainless Steel Single Handle Pull Out Kitchen Faucet, Single Lever Pull Down Brushed Nickel Kitchen Faucets Without Deck Plate”, available at Amazon for $47. Installation was pretty straightforward. I may have had to widen the hole for the hoses on the back of the sink a little bit with a rasp. The plumbing connections, if my memory is correct (always suspect) were plug-and-play. If not, then an adapter was readily available at the local hardware store. My only regret is that I had not done it years before. Tom Peacock SM 240 Aletes Martinique
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