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Re: Recommentation for Sharki second autopilot
GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
Hi Volker,
Your Sharki 176 had a longer mizzen boom than the older models and it over hangs the transom and is likely to foul a windvane unless you with lift the boom. I have seen it done with the clew of the mizzen being recut and raised by a foot or two. It looks strange but it works. My preference was to fit a Raymarine Type 2 short linear drive directly to the rudder stock as I had only just made and fitted a bathing platform on the transom and wanted to be able to use it for boarding. I mounted on it the Std side in the aft cabin. Space is tight but it will fit under the berth. Getting the geometry correct when making the rudder tiller bracket was interesting but simple enough. I used changeover switch mounted above the rotary drive above the galley to switch between the linear and rotary drives. A forty amp four pole switch was used as you need to switch the clutch connections as well as the motor supply. The course computer is a Raymarine S2 with associated fluxgate compass and rudder indicator. Both the rotary and linear drive have the same designation within the computer software and so no adjustment is necessary when switching drives. I bought a complete new S2 package off Ebay to duplicate the whole control system which could be sold in the future. Fitting a gyro made downwind sailing much more comfortable. The system has worked now for some eight or nine years and 10,000 nm or more including two Transats. If all the files were transferred from the Yahoo forum then photos of the installation should be on this forum. Regards, Graham Sharki 181
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Re: ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard
Gary Silver
Hi Duane: Are you referring to the ring bolt on top of the toe-rail just forward of the main mast chainplate? If so you may find that it is secured from the back side with a nut instead of the mild steel imbedded in fiberglass method. Several items, including some to the toe-rail mounted cleats are fixed from inside with nuts. I can't remember for sure if the eye-bolt (aka ring-bolt) is one of them. If it is, you can access it from within the starboard side hanging locker across from the forward head. There is some foam stuffed up into the channel that is the underside of the toe-rail, pull that down at the area where the bolt would be and see if there isn't a nut on the back side.
Hope this helps. Gary S. Silver, M.D. s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 # 335 Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico Tip of the day. AC issues are capacitor caused until proven otherwise. Just swapped out three more this trip.
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Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)
It is only the central stern one that suffers from this problem. The others are mounted on the gunwales, those are solid glass.
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Re: ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard
Hi Duane, We had a similar experience with this bolt on Aletes. The stbd eye bolt spun but would not extract. As I recall we contrived an assembly (leverage) to exert considerable upward force on the bolt and then turned it out. The port eyebolt sheared off so we drilled it out (with cobalt bit) and re-tapped the steel backer plate and installed the next size up British thread bolt. Neither job was easy. Attached rub rail drawing. Best of luck, Mike Ondra Aletes SM#240 Martinique
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io
I am working on the rusting bolts securing the stanchions. There is a ringbolt on the stbd side (used to secure the halyard for the ballooner) on top of the bulwark that has some rust. It appeared to be secured in the same way the stanchion base bolts are - threaded into embedded steel plates.
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ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard
Duane Siegfri
I am working on the rusting bolts securing the stanchions. There is a ringbolt on the stbd side (used to secure the halyard for the ballooner) on top of the bulwark that has some rust. It appeared to be secured in the same way the stanchion base bolts are - threaded into embedded steel plates.
When I tried turning the bolt out it moved with the expected effort on a 12 inch long wrench, by which I mean it's not twisted off. No matter how many rotations it does not advance out of the bulwark more than 1/8th of an inch or so. I'm assuming that somehow in the past someone stripped the threads, but it won't just pop out either. It's just forward of the mast so I looked in the wire compartment that feeds the mast and there is no nut evident. The only conclusion I can come to is that the ringbolt is stripped...any other ideas? Thanks, Duane Wanderer
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Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)
I am very surprised that Amel used coring material in a thru hole area...
On my Amel 50, they use solid glass and a massive backing plate to support the railing and cleats. I thought they have always been doing it this way. s/v Paloma Amel 50, #18
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Re: New companionway lock source
Arlo
Hello Karen, that would be awesome. We are in Port Canaveral but will ping you our next trip to Lighthouse Point. How long will you be in Fort lauderdale? Really appreciate the offer. I can also order a few Y2's to see if they work.
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
Kaplan,Andre
Thanks Tom
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Very helpful
Andre
On Jan 5, 2020, at 9:18 AM, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
Peter Killen
Have you considered checking your hot water immersion tank? I had the same problem on Pure Magic when we owned her and found that the thermostat had failed. Once replaced, the problem was solved.
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Regards Peter Killen
On 5 Jan 2020, at 10:16, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:
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Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)
Thanks perfect
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Jan 5, 2020, at 8:17 AM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
Thomas Peacock
Hi Andre,
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Not sure about dimensions on the Mango, it worked well on my SM. Check your holes and clearance above the sink. I used "Comllen Commercial Stainless Steel Single Handle Pull Out Kitchen Faucet, Single Lever Pull Down Brushed Nickel Kitchen Faucets Without Deck Plate”, available at Amazon for $47. Installation was pretty straightforward. I may have had to widen the hole for the hoses on the back of the sink a little bit with a rasp. The plumbing connections, if my memory is correct (always suspect) were plug-and-play. If not, then an adapter was readily available at the local hardware store. My only regret is that I had not done it years before. Tom Peacock SM 240 Aletes Martinique
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Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)
These pictures should explain:
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
Kaplan,Andre
Tom
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Can you share the type and model of the new faucet you installed and where you sourced it?
Thank you
Andre Kaplan
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71,1988
Westbrook, CT
On Jan 4, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
JOSE PRIETO
Hello Michael, Thank you for the idea.
I'll leave in line for another possible solution.
I checked the two hoses on the outside of the boiler and both are very hot - that means hot water is all over the water system and on the way back to the boiler it reheats. I am thinking of installing a checkvalve on the boiler cold water inlet hose imagining that the problem may be inside the boiler and not the taps. Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
You can install a thermo mixing valve on the outlet of the water heater. This will limit the temperature to 50 to 60 Celsius in the hot side.
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Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.
Hello guys,
Thanks for the feedback again, Following Newington's reasoning, I think installing the check valve could solve the consequence, but not the cause of the problem. I'll probably do it if nothing else works.
Changing the tap as Thomas Peacock suggested, I will no doubt have a better system, but I haven't solved the source of the problem either.
I did some tests yesterday, removing the core from the galley faucet, and cleaning up the calcium buildup in the water mixing chamber, where through the oring could be running hot water from side to side. I reassembled the system with silicone grease, and the same problem happened again.
I considered swapping the core of the bathroom sink faucets for Galey's and testing it again.
I need to figure out how to lower the boiler water temperature, because I live in the marina and leave very little to navigate using the engine.
Good puzzle I got for myself. Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323
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Re: removing the rudder on a SM2K
Jean-Pierre Massicotte
Hello Olaf, I have a Santorin, the built is very similar, I would send the pictures to SAV Amel for comments. In my case I had similar cracks along the rudder shaft and after consulting Amel was told not to worry and repair those cracks with epoxy pastes since that part was not structural! Remember those rudder are hollow construction. The back end are essentially fairing. Since then I have done over 35 000 NM without problems. Hopefully the repair was done correctly using Amel technic. Best regards JP
On Sat., Jan. 4, 2020, 20:35 Olaf Bauer, <olaf.bauer@...> wrote: Hello AMELians,
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removing the rudder on a SM2K
Hello AMELians,
does anyone have experiences with removing the rudder on a SM2K and could provide the steps (a how to) and what I have to consider while de-installing the rudder? It seems that the previous owner hit something with the result that the rudder was broken out to the direction starboard. It also seemed that the PO repaired it but unfortunately not all, in a bad way or it got the cracks afterwards on the portside (see attached pic). The crack is on port side and highlighted in yellow in one of the attached pic. Thanks so much in advance. Fair winds Olaf
S/V Katchopine, SM2K 392 currently in Trinidad
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Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)
Arno
could you be more clear about the stanchion I am not sure where it is
thanks
Courtney
sv Trippin
54 #101
-----Original Message-----
From: Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Sent: Fri, Jan 3, 2020 11:21 am Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54) Dear forum,
I discovered some water ingress in the rear locker of the boat and traced it back to failing sealant under the foot of the removable stanchion. So I removed the foot to discover a bit of sloppy work from Amel. The hole goes trough the sandwich-deck leaving the balsa core exposed. The protection with caulking is insufficient as the three bolts that hold the foot cannot hold the foot completely in place as the sandwich flexes around the hole (compression of the balsa) ever so slightly. After some years this will cause the caulking to loose its seal and water will get to the balsa core. On the long run this will have very bad consequences for the deck. To remedy this I remove all caulking and removed the balsa core as far as I could between the two glass-fiber layers (about 3 or 4 cm deep). This also clears the three bolt-holes. Next I made sure it dried out completely, Impregnated the cavity as best I could with thin epoxy. After the epoxy set I filled the cavity completely with thickened epoxy. After this epoxy was set I re-drilled the boltholes. Finally I replaced the stanchion-foot with some Sikaflex. Because the boltholes are now in massive material you can properly tighten them, making the foot more stable and making the life for the caulking easier. Regards, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54-121
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Re: New companionway lock source
Karen Smith
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