Date   
Re: Amel 55 Steering Cable Information and Supplier

Joerg Esdorn
 

Bill, they went to hydraulic steering somewhere around #50 - mine was one of the first boats with hydraulic steering.  Paul, sorry but I have no information on your request.  

Joerg Esdorn
A55 #53
Kincsem, currently on the hard in Vigo, Spain

Re: A54 bow thruster directly to battery or through main switches?

 

Scott, 

I am very sure you've checked this, but it sounds like an intermittent break in the low amp control circuit, and probably the low position sensor (analog or newer sensor) and/corresponding relay(s).  

Another 54 owner experienced exactly this problem. He found the low position normally closed analog push botton to be defective. Yet another had the same problem and found 1 of the 4 relays to be faulty. 

I think you can test the control side of the motor's high amp solenoid switch for control-side loss of power this way: Lower the BT. Disconnect the large red positive wire. Hold the joystick to either side while checking amps on the control side of the large solenoid. Hold the switch long enough to have experienced a shutdown based on previous experience. If necessary, repeat in the other joystick direction. I believe that the above will tell you if it is the motor or the control circuit.

Good luck!

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Feb 9, 2020, 2:17 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Borrow several voltmeters. Attach them to the BT wiring at a few places along the wiring path. Run the BT to failure, check each voltmeter for voltage. Thus will help you locate the problem. Its likely a thermal open failure. Some termination, when cool, transfers current. Its got a resistive problem (maybe a corroded or loose ring terminal?). It heats as the BT operates. When it gets warm enough, mechanical movement causes an open, and it stops. When it cools, the process starts again. Also, it possible that after the BT stops, to quickly lay hands (or use an IR thermometer) to check for a hot termination somewhere along the wiring path. That would be your suspect problem location.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 9, 2020, at 12:34 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Scott,

    That is a strange one.  I would try measuring the voltage at the motor during operation to what is going on.  If you lose power at the BT during your test then back track the BT wiring  while operating the BT to find the fault.  If you have voltage at the motor when it stops during your test then look into the motor.  Maybe a relay issue?   Best of luck.  
James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Feb 9, 2020 9:07 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Our bow thruster was indeed wired through a switch, too.

I've worked with Sleipner to try to isolate the intermittent functioning problem to no avail. It runs full speed and then stops momentarily and then will start again. No slowdown to indicate drop in voltage. The Amel joystick has been cleaned and tested and shows nearly zero ohms on activation.

Every switch and thermal protection within the Sidepower thruster has been "jumpered" and it still doesn't work. I was hoping the problem was the main battery switch but I moved the positive bow thruster supply wire from the secondary side of the switch directly to the battery side. The only thing left is the motor itself but the brushes and commutator look perfect. The annoying bit is that this motor is only a year old and Sleipner wants me to ship it back to them from Panama at my cost, wait for them to test it, get warranty approval, ship it back (at my cost) and pay customs duty. I might as well buy a new motor! With a canal appointment, I clearly don't want to do this.

Anyone have any other ideas on what I should check? I haven't tested voltage at the BT during operation because I don't have alligator clips, but the fact that the BT either runs full speed or not at all, without any slowdown indicates to me that it's not an issue with enough voltage getting to the BT.


--Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Steering racks for SN, SM & 54

karkauai
 

Excellent!  We will order one in Martinique to have as a spare.

Thanks
Kent and Iris
SM 243
Kristy
Bahamas heading South

On Feb 9, 2020 11:17 AM, amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:
Thanks Bill
On the to do list 
Tom
Aphrodite 


On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:04 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Tom,

I am not sure. I believe that Maramus have the same rack. You should send an email to SAV"@"Amel.fr and ask. Please let me know at email below what they say.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar
cloudHQPowered by
cloudHQ


On Sun, Feb 9, 2020 at 9:53 AM amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:
Good day Bill
I was wondering if Amel would have the racks for a 1983 Maramu # 125.
Barra De Navidad Mexico
200 miles to go for a circumnavigation !!
Thanks TOM Deasy 


On Feb 7, 2020, at 9:07 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


This is to notify you that SAV"at"Amel.fr will have the steering racks available to ship in a few weeks. I understand that they have them, and are currently testing the installation.

I would like to point out to everyone that this is really admirable on the part of Amel. When I contacted the US branch of the company that originally made these racks, there was not any desire on their part to make these discontinued racks available. I am not sure if Amel convinced them, or found someone else to make the racks, but in either case, Amel used their expertise and leverage to support owners with a discontinued manufacturer's part that Amel has not used since the last 54 was produced. Among boat builders, I believe this is remarkable. I know that Maud and Thierry were very supportive of all of us.

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar
cloudHQPowered by
cloudHQ


Re: New Wheel Leather

karkauai
 

We want to wrap our wheel and companionway handrail, too.  That's the nicest one I have seen yet!  Does that braid have a name?  Instructions on how to do it?

Michelle, you are hired!

Thanks

Kent and Iris
SM 243
Kristy
Bahamas, heading South

On Feb 8, 2020 3:33 AM, Steve Bode <Whatsup@...> wrote:
I think Michelle did a really nice job on our helm...

--
Steve Bode
Capt. SV Intention
Amel SM #117 (1994)
+1 415 710-6659 Mobile/Text/WhatsApp
facebook.com/stevebodesanfrancisco
svintention.com

Re: Selling an Amel Mango

Frederic F
 

Thank you very much to all for your tips, sounds great.

We will contact him.

All the best
Frederic

BOW THRUSTER

Bernd Spanner
 
Edited

Hi,

so finally my BT is back in again (SN). I had the impression that it has never had a overhaul since 25 years. But... amazingly all gears and bearings are still in excellent condition except the seals which were basically gone.
However, after everything was assembled again and connected to the motor, it worked perfectly up n down and more powerful left n right (with oil and not honey in the BT) but unfortunately after some tests the gear from the motor disconnected from the BT. Meaning Motor is turning but BT is dead. all screws are in and tight... I didnt have time to furthet investigate and will ne gone for a while now thinking about it...🧐
Anyone with the same experience or ideas?!
Also some pics attached 
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 2nd Forestay on Super Maramu

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Steve and Alan,

we dont have the inner forestay so fly the 90% off the main stay. I have tried a barber hauler system to sheet it inboard. Not worth the effort so we just sheet it to the outer track. Works fine. Sir Peter Blake, a renowned NZ off shore and round the world racer advised to always sail with slightly cracked (eased) sheets going to windward off shore. Gave a better overall outcome he maintained. Henri must have been of the same persuasion.

In rough weather it can reduce pounding significantly. Important if you want your boat to last.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 10 February 2020 at 19:40 Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:

Hi Steve,

We actually have an inner forestay with a staysail on it, and the problem you would have, as we do, is that in trying to sheet it in, the leech fouls the forward lower stay.

We do actually fly it inside the stay but furled in so it doesn't foul the stay, in heavy weather going to windward.

I doubt very much you would be able to sheet a 90% genoa on the main forestay without furling it to clear that forward lower.

Cheers

Alan
Elyse SM437
 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 2nd Forestay on Super Maramu

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Steve,

We actually have an inner forestay with a staysail on it, and the problem you would have, as we do, is that in trying to sheet it in, the leech fouls the forward lower stay.

We do actually fly it inside the stay but furled in so it doesn't foul the stay, in heavy weather going to windward.

I doubt very much you would be able to sheet a 90% genoa on the main forestay without furling it to clear that forward lower.

Cheers

Alan
Elyse SM437
 

Re: rub rail insert

Rink De Haan
 

I checked it on the boat and it matches mine on our 2001 SM2k.

 

Van: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io namens Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...>
Verzonden: maandag, februari 10, 2020 12:00 AM
Aan: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Onderwerp: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] rub rail insert
 
Good question,Maud sent the same diagram ,but without  removing the scupper its hard to know the profile.
Pat
SM #123


-----Original Message-----
From: Jarek Zemlo via Groups.Io <noa_blue@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Feb 9, 2020 12:52 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] rub rail insert

Rink Hi,

I got this profile from Maud (see  below). Do you know if this is the correct one for the SM (1997) ?

Best regards
--
Jarek Zemlo
NOA BLUE

Re: Washing Machine Replacement for SM #160

Davi Rozgonyi
 

Yes, that's our machine too, except it's called Kenwood Mini 1150 Rapid around these parts. Fits perfectly, works great, gonna cry when she breaks.... 

Re: Howes fuel treatment

James Alton
 

Matt,

   If you are reading on the H2Out site under the section titled maintenance instructions,  read the last paragraph where they state the annual change out frequency.    I suspect that the change out frequency will depend on a lot of different factors.   Yes, it looks a little pricey to me too,  there could be a better solution.

James


On Feb 9, 2020, at 9:50 PM, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

I took a look online at the H2Out. Looks OK. A bit pricey. Refills aren’t so bad, and they recommend them at your oil change frequency. Likely more than every 12 months?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 9, 2020, at 9:07 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Matt,

   They seem to rightfully be concerned about pressurized,  flammable or items that are dangerous in some way.    I don’t see how this item should be a concern.  Please keep in mind that I do not have any experience thus far with the H2Out system so do your own research!  Best of luck.

James
 
On Feb 9, 2020, at 8:30 PM, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

I wonder if the TSA will pull it out of checked baggage?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 9, 2020, at 7:21 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Sorry the image is hard to read-
This is the write-up from Howes. It is used most of the time in fuel depots where the diesel is stored over the summer for home heating oil.
At Howes we understand the science and importance of year round lubricity and protection and our Meaner Power Kleaner is the proof. Safely eliminating water and removing the environment that creates bacteria, Meaner Power Kleaner contains no alcohol or harmful solvents and eliminates injector deposits. The end result is a performance enhancing product that protects your engine and boosts MPGs…guaranteed!
 
We then add Howes fuel treatment, This stuff is incredible. Please read the label. It also guaranteed 5% better fuel economy. PHOTO IS BELOW
 
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
 
 

Sent: Sun
<image001.png>day, February 09, 2020 6:37 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug
 
All good points, James.
Working with dessicant dryers for air compressors, on a humid day, the crystals were pink (from clear) in a few hours. 

I fear that a proper dryer that one could set and forget for 6 months, if it exists, would be active, powered, and be another,complex system to maintain and monitor. Maybe a pressurized system like the ones on automobiles would work, that don’t allow air, readily into the system? I’ve not studied how they work, so I plead ignorance....😊

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Feb 9, 2020, at 5:06 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Matt,
 
  I agree.    The desiccant cartridges would need to be replaced from time to time  Most of the ones I have considered change colour indicating the need while others can be heated to drive off the moisture and returned to service.  I have been looking at some commercial solutions so the cost is fairly reasonable but more research is needed to determine the effectiveness and life expectancy in a marine environment.   If anyone has found a good workable solution for installed a desiccant in the vent line please share.
 
Best,
 
James
  
On Feb 9, 2020, at 3:10 PM, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:
 

A desiccant/dryer would be a great idea. Finding one that is maintenance free, and passive, may be a problem.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Feb 9, 2020, at 12:23 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Some great discussion here.  One item that I did not see discussed that could be  helpful especially in humid climates is adding a dessicant dryer to the vent line.  Regular replacement and lubrication of the O ring seal at the fill cap is important as well.  Best of luck.
 
James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
 
On Feb 9, 2020 11:49 AM, "Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io" <portermcroberts@...> wrote:
I agree Nick— You're right, certainly about the industry norm.  And I’m sure there are many theories on this: and mine may be incorrect.  But the way I think of it: Crud exists in a myriad of sizes.  Crud forms… then  gets into the filter system and clogs.  If i have a series of sequentially smaller sized filters, i simply clog them all. and then replace them all.  If a bolus of crud makes it into the sequential filtering setup: filters essentially sort the crud into smaller sizes at a great cost (especially with the last Volvo filter now being fouled).  So we've cruised with the 2 micron setup for about 500 hours of motoring from panama to NZ last year and it seemed to work well.  no issues.  Filters seemed pretty good looking when i changed them  Usually around 100 hrs,  (I previously was quite derelict about it, prior to really understanding how important clean fuel was.)  I have noticed the manometer pressure reading on the setup would climb slightly over the 100 hrs, but never concerningly high.  
So scenario above A, with ostensibly clean fuel, worked for us, for this while.
 
 
So… Scenario B: Cruddy fuel shows up.  A slosh of crud makes it into the filter setup. (is this an isolated bit of crud, or does it advertize a yet much larger crub problem in the tank)  Currently it would saturate the 2 micron first filter and pressures climb, engine shuts down alerting us to a pressure scenario  and we change filter: but now we know we have cruddy fuel and need to polish it and the tank. (and why I’d like a separate fuel polishing system on board.)  Heres where my scenario breaks down: it depends on the amount of crud: pump it out and through baja filter into jerry cans? then run engine off jerry cans?  or...( I do have a bunch of 10mn  and 30mn sizes as well) as well put those on and let the filters clean the crud out: but if I increase the racor size then ill be clogging my 130$ volvo filters very fast: i carry about 4 of those, They're proprietary and hard to get in places.  It turns into a "S" show.  
 
So what's governed our cruising: sail smart, with wind as much as possible so we motor little.  Praise our relatively large 900 litre tank, and the freedom it adds to be discriminate about fuel choice. When others are fueling out of necessity, i find myself adding fuel not because i think we're low, but…  hey were sailors and should keep topped up stores.  
 
I'd be surprised if I’d completely thought this through, I'm sure there are some folks who really understand this at a much deeper level and I would love to hear from them and you.
 
And as you note Nick, it is the industry norm, and usually there is good reason for that!  To that end, if the Volvo-proprietary “C” filters were as inexpensive as the racors—I’d also stick to industry norm.  
 
I’d respectfully welcome any thinking and guidance.
 
Porter A54-154 with a  “H” model D3-110
 
 
 
 
 
 
On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:42 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:
 
Hi Scott and Porter,
 
I choose to use a 10 or even 30 micron filter on the Racor followed by the Volvo secondary filter which is 2 micron I believe.
 
In my opinion by having the pre-filter at 2 micron you are in effect only having one filter. So in the event of major contamination the Racor will plug and the engine will suffer from fuel starvation. You may also damage the fuel pump, although on the 54 the fuel is gravity fed from the tank to the filters.
 
The same principle applies to the water maker. There is a course filter followed by the fine filter. You can not just go straight to the fine.
 
I know this is a controversial subject but that is my opinion….and the industry norm.
 
Nick
 
Amelia AML 54-019
Kilada Greece
On 9 Feb 2020, at 15:10, Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts@...> wrote:
 
I understand. We have the same setup. The dual racor (A vs B) and A+B if one wishes.  We keep the 2 micron on both A and B and use only A or B, switching back and forth.  Filter C is of course the very pricey Volvo-specific filter/fuel water separator, which is what I want to spare by using the 2 micron. I watch the pressure gauge on the racors a lot.  That’s why we change frequently, to keep pressures low.  We have no pre-pre filters.  
 
I remember a thread on this about a year ago, the 2 micron pre-filter argument.  That’s when we switched.  Its hard to be scientific when we have limited data re what works “best.”
 
Great comments on why to keep the tank full during storage.
 
Porter A54-152
 
On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:02 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
 
Porter,

I have the two racor filter setup. I consider this the primary filter / pre-filter.

Options:

1) FilterA only
2) FilterB only
3) FilterA and FilterB in parallel

Do you run the 2 micron filters here?

On my D3-110C there's a Volvo spin-on filter (2 micron) on the engine itself. We'll call that FilterC

Did you install a pre-filter before the Racors??
-- 
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com
 
 
 
 
 



Re: Amel 55 Steering Cable Information and Supplier

 

Every 55 I have seen has hydraulic steering...no cables...Like other things maybe some of the first 55s had cables, but I don't think so.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar
cloudHQPowered by
cloudHQ


On Sun, Feb 9, 2020 at 11:47 AM Paul Stascavage via Groups.Io <pstas2003=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Good day all. 

A friend of ours and non forum member has an Amel 55 and needs to replace their steering cables. Amel told them the suppler is no longer available. I remember reading that owners were having trouble getting steering parts from Amel but I thought that was for older boats and I also thought Amel resolved that issue?  Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. They are currently in either the Grenadines or Grenada. 

All the best.

Paul Stascavage 
SM 466.
S/V Rita Kathryn 

RitaKathryn.com

Currently Cruising The Bahamas 

Re: Howes fuel treatment

Matt Salatino
 

I took a look online at the H2Out. Looks OK. A bit pricey. Refills aren’t so bad, and they recommend them at your oil change frequency. Likely more than every 12 months?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 9, 2020, at 9:07 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Matt,

   They seem to rightfully be concerned about pressurized,  flammable or items that are dangerous in some way.    I don’t see how this item should be a concern.  Please keep in mind that I do not have any experience thus far with the H2Out system so do your own research!  Best of luck.

James
 
On Feb 9, 2020, at 8:30 PM, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

I wonder if the TSA will pull it out of checked baggage?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 9, 2020, at 7:21 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Sorry the image is hard to read-
This is the write-up from Howes. It is used most of the time in fuel depots where the diesel is stored over the summer for home heating oil.
At Howes we understand the science and importance of year round lubricity and protection and our Meaner Power Kleaner is the proof. Safely eliminating water and removing the environment that creates bacteria, Meaner Power Kleaner contains no alcohol or harmful solvents and eliminates injector deposits. The end result is a performance enhancing product that protects your engine and boosts MPGs…guaranteed!
 
We then add Howes fuel treatment, This stuff is incredible. Please read the label. It also guaranteed 5% better fuel economy. PHOTO IS BELOW
 
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
 
 

Sent: Sun
<image001.png>day, February 09, 2020 6:37 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug
 
All good points, James.
Working with dessicant dryers for air compressors, on a humid day, the crystals were pink (from clear) in a few hours. 

I fear that a proper dryer that one could set and forget for 6 months, if it exists, would be active, powered, and be another,complex system to maintain and monitor. Maybe a pressurized system like the ones on automobiles would work, that don’t allow air, readily into the system? I’ve not studied how they work, so I plead ignorance....😊

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Feb 9, 2020, at 5:06 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Matt,
 
  I agree.    The desiccant cartridges would need to be replaced from time to time  Most of the ones I have considered change colour indicating the need while others can be heated to drive off the moisture and returned to service.  I have been looking at some commercial solutions so the cost is fairly reasonable but more research is needed to determine the effectiveness and life expectancy in a marine environment.   If anyone has found a good workable solution for installed a desiccant in the vent line please share.
 
Best,
 
James
  
On Feb 9, 2020, at 3:10 PM, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:
 

A desiccant/dryer would be a great idea. Finding one that is maintenance free, and passive, may be a problem.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Feb 9, 2020, at 12:23 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Some great discussion here.  One item that I did not see discussed that could be  helpful especially in humid climates is adding a dessicant dryer to the vent line.  Regular replacement and lubrication of the O ring seal at the fill cap is important as well.  Best of luck.
 
James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
 
On Feb 9, 2020 11:49 AM, "Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io" <portermcroberts@...> wrote:
I agree Nick— You're right, certainly about the industry norm.  And I’m sure there are many theories on this: and mine may be incorrect.  But the way I think of it: Crud exists in a myriad of sizes.  Crud forms… then  gets into the filter system and clogs.  If i have a series of sequentially smaller sized filters, i simply clog them all. and then replace them all.  If a bolus of crud makes it into the sequential filtering setup: filters essentially sort the crud into smaller sizes at a great cost (especially with the last Volvo filter now being fouled).  So we've cruised with the 2 micron setup for about 500 hours of motoring from panama to NZ last year and it seemed to work well.  no issues.  Filters seemed pretty good looking when i changed them  Usually around 100 hrs,  (I previously was quite derelict about it, prior to really understanding how important clean fuel was.)  I have noticed the manometer pressure reading on the setup would climb slightly over the 100 hrs, but never concerningly high.  
So scenario above A, with ostensibly clean fuel, worked for us, for this while.
 
 
So… Scenario B: Cruddy fuel shows up.  A slosh of crud makes it into the filter setup. (is this an isolated bit of crud, or does it advertize a yet much larger crub problem in the tank)  Currently it would saturate the 2 micron first filter and pressures climb, engine shuts down alerting us to a pressure scenario  and we change filter: but now we know we have cruddy fuel and need to polish it and the tank. (and why I’d like a separate fuel polishing system on board.)  Heres where my scenario breaks down: it depends on the amount of crud: pump it out and through baja filter into jerry cans? then run engine off jerry cans?  or...( I do have a bunch of 10mn  and 30mn sizes as well) as well put those on and let the filters clean the crud out: but if I increase the racor size then ill be clogging my 130$ volvo filters very fast: i carry about 4 of those, They're proprietary and hard to get in places.  It turns into a "S" show.  
 
So what's governed our cruising: sail smart, with wind as much as possible so we motor little.  Praise our relatively large 900 litre tank, and the freedom it adds to be discriminate about fuel choice. When others are fueling out of necessity, i find myself adding fuel not because i think we're low, but…  hey were sailors and should keep topped up stores.  
 
I'd be surprised if I’d completely thought this through, I'm sure there are some folks who really understand this at a much deeper level and I would love to hear from them and you.
 
And as you note Nick, it is the industry norm, and usually there is good reason for that!  To that end, if the Volvo-proprietary “C” filters were as inexpensive as the racors—I’d also stick to industry norm.  
 
I’d respectfully welcome any thinking and guidance.
 
Porter A54-154 with a  “H” model D3-110
 
 
 
 
 
 
On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:42 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:
 
Hi Scott and Porter,
 
I choose to use a 10 or even 30 micron filter on the Racor followed by the Volvo secondary filter which is 2 micron I believe.
 
In my opinion by having the pre-filter at 2 micron you are in effect only having one filter. So in the event of major contamination the Racor will plug and the engine will suffer from fuel starvation. You may also damage the fuel pump, although on the 54 the fuel is gravity fed from the tank to the filters.
 
The same principle applies to the water maker. There is a course filter followed by the fine filter. You can not just go straight to the fine.
 
I know this is a controversial subject but that is my opinion….and the industry norm.
 
Nick
 
Amelia AML 54-019
Kilada Greece
On 9 Feb 2020, at 15:10, Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts@...> wrote:
 
I understand. We have the same setup. The dual racor (A vs B) and A+B if one wishes.  We keep the 2 micron on both A and B and use only A or B, switching back and forth.  Filter C is of course the very pricey Volvo-specific filter/fuel water separator, which is what I want to spare by using the 2 micron. I watch the pressure gauge on the racors a lot.  That’s why we change frequently, to keep pressures low.  We have no pre-pre filters.  
 
I remember a thread on this about a year ago, the 2 micron pre-filter argument.  That’s when we switched.  Its hard to be scientific when we have limited data re what works “best.”
 
Great comments on why to keep the tank full during storage.
 
Porter A54-152
 
On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:02 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
 
Porter,

I have the two racor filter setup. I consider this the primary filter / pre-filter.

Options:

1) FilterA only
2) FilterB only
3) FilterA and FilterB in parallel

Do you run the 2 micron filters here?

On my D3-110C there's a Volvo spin-on filter (2 micron) on the engine itself. We'll call that FilterC

Did you install a pre-filter before the Racors??
-- 
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com
 
 
 
 
 


Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

Matt Salatino
 

Annual change  wouldn’t be bad at all....

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 9, 2020, at 7:50 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Matt,

   I came across a company called H2Out that sells driers for vent lines that suggests an annual change of the desiccant with a properly sized unit.   I would think that unless the boat is in motion that air movement through the vent should be pretty minimal so quite different from the continuous forced flow through an air compressor intake.  Definitely more research needed before I add this to my boat but I like the concept.  

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Feb 9, 2020, at 6:37 PM, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

All good points, James.
Working with dessicant dryers for air compressors, on a humid day, the crystals were pink (from clear) in a few hours. 
I fear that a proper dryer that one could set and forget for 6 months, if it exists, would be active, powered, and be another,complex system to maintain and monitor. Maybe a pressurized system like the ones on automobiles would work, that don’t allow air, readily into the system? I’ve not studied how they work, so I plead ignorance....😊

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 9, 2020, at 5:06 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Matt,

  I agree.    The desiccant cartridges would need to be replaced from time to time  Most of the ones I have considered change colour indicating the need while others can be heated to drive off the moisture and returned to service.  I have been looking at some commercial solutions so the cost is fairly reasonable but more research is needed to determine the effectiveness and life expectancy in a marine environment.   If anyone has found a good workable solution for installed a desiccant in the vent line please share.

Best,

James
  
On Feb 9, 2020, at 3:10 PM, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

A desiccant/dryer would be a great idea. Finding one that is maintenance free, and passive, may be a problem.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 9, 2020, at 12:23 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Some great discussion here.  One item that I did not see discussed that could be  helpful especially in humid climates is adding a dessicant dryer to the vent line.  Regular replacement and lubrication of the O ring seal at the fill cap is important as well.  Best of luck.

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Feb 9, 2020 11:49 AM, "Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io" <portermcroberts@...> wrote:
I agree Nick— You're right, certainly about the industry norm.  And I’m sure there are many theories on this: and mine may be incorrect.  But the way I think of it: Crud exists in a myriad of sizes.  Crud forms… then  gets into the filter system and clogs.  If i have a series of sequentially smaller sized filters, i simply clog them all. and then replace them all.  If a bolus of crud makes it into the sequential filtering setup: filters essentially sort the crud into smaller sizes at a great cost (especially with the last Volvo filter now being fouled).  So we've cruised with the 2 micron setup for about 500 hours of motoring from panama to NZ last year and it seemed to work well.  no issues.  Filters seemed pretty good looking when i changed them  Usually around 100 hrs,  (I previously was quite derelict about it, prior to really understanding how important clean fuel was.)  I have noticed the manometer pressure reading on the setup would climb slightly over the 100 hrs, but never concerningly high.  
So scenario above A, with ostensibly clean fuel, worked for us, for this while.


So… Scenario B: Cruddy fuel shows up.  A slosh of crud makes it into the filter setup. (is this an isolated bit of crud, or does it advertize a yet much larger crub problem in the tank)  Currently it would saturate the 2 micron first filter and pressures climb, engine shuts down alerting us to a pressure scenario  and we change filter: but now we know we have cruddy fuel and need to polish it and the tank. (and why I’d like a separate fuel polishing system on board.)  Heres where my scenario breaks down: it depends on the amount of crud: pump it out and through baja filter into jerry cans? then run engine off jerry cans?  or...( I do have a bunch of 10mn  and 30mn sizes as well) as well put those on and let the filters clean the crud out: but if I increase the racor size then ill be clogging my 130$ volvo filters very fast: i carry about 4 of those, They're proprietary and hard to get in places.  It turns into a "S" show.  

So what's governed our cruising: sail smart, with wind as much as possible so we motor little.  Praise our relatively large 900 litre tank, and the freedom it adds to be discriminate about fuel choice. When others are fueling out of necessity, i find myself adding fuel not because i think we're low, but…  hey were sailors and should keep topped up stores.  

I'd be surprised if I’d completely thought this through, I'm sure there are some folks who really understand this at a much deeper level and I would love to hear from them and you.

And as you note Nick, it is the industry norm, and usually there is good reason for that!  To that end, if the Volvo-proprietary “C” filters were as inexpensive as the racors—I’d also stick to industry norm.  

I’d respectfully welcome any thinking and guidance.

Porter A54-154 with a  “H” model D3-110






On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:42 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

Hi Scott and Porter,

I choose to use a 10 or even 30 micron filter on the Racor followed by the Volvo secondary filter which is 2 micron I believe.

In my opinion by having the pre-filter at 2 micron you are in effect only having one filter. So in the event of major contamination the Racor will plug and the engine will suffer from fuel starvation. You may also damage the fuel pump, although on the 54 the fuel is gravity fed from the tank to the filters.

The same principle applies to the water maker. There is a course filter followed by the fine filter. You can not just go straight to the fine.

I know this is a controversial subject but that is my opinion….and the industry norm.

Nick

Amelia AML 54-019
Kilada Greece
On 9 Feb 2020, at 15:10, Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

I understand. We have the same setup. The dual racor (A vs B) and A+B if one wishes.  We keep the 2 micron on both A and B and use only A or B, switching back and forth.  Filter C is of course the very pricey Volvo-specific filter/fuel water separator, which is what I want to spare by using the 2 micron. I watch the pressure gauge on the racors a lot.  That’s why we change frequently, to keep pressures low.  We have no pre-pre filters.  

I remember a thread on this about a year ago, the 2 micron pre-filter argument.  That’s when we switched.  Its hard to be scientific when we have limited data re what works “best.”

Great comments on why to keep the tank full during storage.

Porter A54-152

On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:02 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

Porter,

I have the two racor filter setup. I consider this the primary filter / pre-filter.

Options:

1) FilterA only
2) FilterB only
3) FilterA and FilterB in parallel

Do you run the 2 micron filters here?

On my D3-110C there's a Volvo spin-on filter (2 micron) on the engine itself. We'll call that FilterC

Did you install a pre-filter before the Racors??
-- 
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com






Re: Howes fuel treatment

Matt Salatino
 

I wonder if the TSA will pull it out of checked baggage?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 9, 2020, at 7:21 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Sorry the image is hard to read-

This is the write-up from Howes. It is used most of the time in fuel depots where the diesel is stored over the summer for home heating oil.

At Howes we understand the science and importance of year round lubricity and protection and our Meaner Power Kleaner is the proof. Safely eliminating water and removing the environment that creates bacteria, Meaner Power Kleaner contains no alcohol or harmful solvents and eliminates injector deposits. The end result is a performance enhancing product that protects your engine and boosts MPGs…guaranteed!

 

We then add Howes fuel treatment, This stuff is incredible. Please read the label. It also guaranteed 5% better fuel economy. PHOTO IS BELOW

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Sent: Sun
<image001.png>day, February 09, 2020 6:37 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

 

All good points, James.

Working with dessicant dryers for air compressors, on a humid day, the crystals were pink (from clear) in a few hours. 

I fear that a proper dryer that one could set and forget for 6 months, if it exists, would be active, powered, and be another,complex system to maintain and monitor. Maybe a pressurized system like the ones on automobiles would work, that don’t allow air, readily into the system? I’ve not studied how they work, so I plead ignorance....😊

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Feb 9, 2020, at 5:06 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Matt,

 

  I agree.    The desiccant cartridges would need to be replaced from time to time  Most of the ones I have considered change colour indicating the need while others can be heated to drive off the moisture and returned to service.  I have been looking at some commercial solutions so the cost is fairly reasonable but more research is needed to determine the effectiveness and life expectancy in a marine environment.   If anyone has found a good workable solution for installed a desiccant in the vent line please share.

 

Best,

 

James

  

On Feb 9, 2020, at 3:10 PM, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

 

A desiccant/dryer would be a great idea. Finding one that is maintenance free, and passive, may be a problem.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Feb 9, 2020, at 12:23 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Some great discussion here.  One item that I did not see discussed that could be  helpful especially in humid climates is adding a dessicant dryer to the vent line.  Regular replacement and lubrication of the O ring seal at the fill cap is important as well.  Best of luck.

 

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

 

On Feb 9, 2020 11:49 AM, "Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io" <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

I agree Nick— You're right, certainly about the industry norm.  And I’m sure there are many theories on this: and mine may be incorrect.  But the way I think of it: Crud exists in a myriad of sizes.  Crud forms… then  gets into the filter system and clogs.  If i have a series of sequentially smaller sized filters, i simply clog them all. and then replace them all.  If a bolus of crud makes it into the sequential filtering setup: filters essentially sort the crud into smaller sizes at a great cost (especially with the last Volvo filter now being fouled).  So we've cruised with the 2 micron setup for about 500 hours of motoring from panama to NZ last year and it seemed to work well.  no issues.  Filters seemed pretty good looking when i changed them  Usually around 100 hrs,  (I previously was quite derelict about it, prior to really understanding how important clean fuel was.)  I have noticed the manometer pressure reading on the setup would climb slightly over the 100 hrs, but never concerningly high.  

So scenario above A, with ostensibly clean fuel, worked for us, for this while.

 

 

So… Scenario B: Cruddy fuel shows up.  A slosh of crud makes it into the filter setup. (is this an isolated bit of crud, or does it advertize a yet much larger crub problem in the tank)  Currently it would saturate the 2 micron first filter and pressures climb, engine shuts down alerting us to a pressure scenario  and we change filter: but now we know we have cruddy fuel and need to polish it and the tank. (and why I’d like a separate fuel polishing system on board.)  Heres where my scenario breaks down: it depends on the amount of crud: pump it out and through baja filter into jerry cans? then run engine off jerry cans?  or...( I do have a bunch of 10mn  and 30mn sizes as well) as well put those on and let the filters clean the crud out: but if I increase the racor size then ill be clogging my 130$ volvo filters very fast: i carry about 4 of those, They're proprietary and hard to get in places.  It turns into a "S" show.  

 

So what's governed our cruising: sail smart, with wind as much as possible so we motor little.  Praise our relatively large 900 litre tank, and the freedom it adds to be discriminate about fuel choice. When others are fueling out of necessity, i find myself adding fuel not because i think we're low, but…  hey were sailors and should keep topped up stores.  

 

I'd be surprised if I’d completely thought this through, I'm sure there are some folks who really understand this at a much deeper level and I would love to hear from them and you.

 

And as you note Nick, it is the industry norm, and usually there is good reason for that!  To that end, if the Volvo-proprietary “C” filters were as inexpensive as the racors—I’d also stick to industry norm.  

 

I’d respectfully welcome any thinking and guidance.

 

Porter A54-154 with a  “H” model D3-110

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:42 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

 

Hi Scott and Porter,

 

I choose to use a 10 or even 30 micron filter on the Racor followed by the Volvo secondary filter which is 2 micron I believe.

 

In my opinion by having the pre-filter at 2 micron you are in effect only having one filter. So in the event of major contamination the Racor will plug and the engine will suffer from fuel starvation. You may also damage the fuel pump, although on the 54 the fuel is gravity fed from the tank to the filters.

 

The same principle applies to the water maker. There is a course filter followed by the fine filter. You can not just go straight to the fine.

 

I know this is a controversial subject but that is my opinion….and the industry norm.

 

Nick

 

Amelia AML 54-019

Kilada Greece

On 9 Feb 2020, at 15:10, Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

 

I understand. We have the same setup. The dual racor (A vs B) and A+B if one wishes.  We keep the 2 micron on both A and B and use only A or B, switching back and forth.  Filter C is of course the very pricey Volvo-specific filter/fuel water separator, which is what I want to spare by using the 2 micron. I watch the pressure gauge on the racors a lot.  That’s why we change frequently, to keep pressures low.  We have no pre-pre filters.  

 

I remember a thread on this about a year ago, the 2 micron pre-filter argument.  That’s when we switched.  Its hard to be scientific when we have limited data re what works “best.”

 

Great comments on why to keep the tank full during storage.

 

Porter A54-152

 

On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:02 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

 

Porter,

I have the two racor filter setup. I consider this the primary filter / pre-filter.

Options:

1) FilterA only
2) FilterB only
3) FilterA and FilterB in parallel

Do you run the 2 micron filters here?

On my D3-110C there's a Volvo spin-on filter (2 micron) on the engine itself. We'll call that FilterC

Did you install a pre-filter before the Racors??
-- 
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

 

 

 

 

 

Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

James Alton
 

Matt,

   I came across a company called H2Out that sells driers for vent lines that suggests an annual change of the desiccant with a properly sized unit.   I would think that unless the boat is in motion that air movement through the vent should be pretty minimal so quite different from the continuous forced flow through an air compressor intake.  Definitely more research needed before I add this to my boat but I like the concept.  

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Feb 9, 2020, at 6:37 PM, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

All good points, James.
Working with dessicant dryers for air compressors, on a humid day, the crystals were pink (from clear) in a few hours. 
I fear that a proper dryer that one could set and forget for 6 months, if it exists, would be active, powered, and be another,complex system to maintain and monitor. Maybe a pressurized system like the ones on automobiles would work, that don’t allow air, readily into the system? I’ve not studied how they work, so I plead ignorance....😊

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 9, 2020, at 5:06 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Matt,

  I agree.    The desiccant cartridges would need to be replaced from time to time  Most of the ones I have considered change colour indicating the need while others can be heated to drive off the moisture and returned to service.  I have been looking at some commercial solutions so the cost is fairly reasonable but more research is needed to determine the effectiveness and life expectancy in a marine environment.   If anyone has found a good workable solution for installed a desiccant in the vent line please share.

Best,

James
  
On Feb 9, 2020, at 3:10 PM, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

A desiccant/dryer would be a great idea. Finding one that is maintenance free, and passive, may be a problem.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 9, 2020, at 12:23 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Some great discussion here.  One item that I did not see discussed that could be  helpful especially in humid climates is adding a dessicant dryer to the vent line.  Regular replacement and lubrication of the O ring seal at the fill cap is important as well.  Best of luck.

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Feb 9, 2020 11:49 AM, "Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io" <portermcroberts@...> wrote:
I agree Nick— You're right, certainly about the industry norm.  And I’m sure there are many theories on this: and mine may be incorrect.  But the way I think of it: Crud exists in a myriad of sizes.  Crud forms… then  gets into the filter system and clogs.  If i have a series of sequentially smaller sized filters, i simply clog them all. and then replace them all.  If a bolus of crud makes it into the sequential filtering setup: filters essentially sort the crud into smaller sizes at a great cost (especially with the last Volvo filter now being fouled).  So we've cruised with the 2 micron setup for about 500 hours of motoring from panama to NZ last year and it seemed to work well.  no issues.  Filters seemed pretty good looking when i changed them  Usually around 100 hrs,  (I previously was quite derelict about it, prior to really understanding how important clean fuel was.)  I have noticed the manometer pressure reading on the setup would climb slightly over the 100 hrs, but never concerningly high.  
So scenario above A, with ostensibly clean fuel, worked for us, for this while.


So… Scenario B: Cruddy fuel shows up.  A slosh of crud makes it into the filter setup. (is this an isolated bit of crud, or does it advertize a yet much larger crub problem in the tank)  Currently it would saturate the 2 micron first filter and pressures climb, engine shuts down alerting us to a pressure scenario  and we change filter: but now we know we have cruddy fuel and need to polish it and the tank. (and why I’d like a separate fuel polishing system on board.)  Heres where my scenario breaks down: it depends on the amount of crud: pump it out and through baja filter into jerry cans? then run engine off jerry cans?  or...( I do have a bunch of 10mn  and 30mn sizes as well) as well put those on and let the filters clean the crud out: but if I increase the racor size then ill be clogging my 130$ volvo filters very fast: i carry about 4 of those, They're proprietary and hard to get in places.  It turns into a "S" show.  

So what's governed our cruising: sail smart, with wind as much as possible so we motor little.  Praise our relatively large 900 litre tank, and the freedom it adds to be discriminate about fuel choice. When others are fueling out of necessity, i find myself adding fuel not because i think we're low, but…  hey were sailors and should keep topped up stores.  

I'd be surprised if I’d completely thought this through, I'm sure there are some folks who really understand this at a much deeper level and I would love to hear from them and you.

And as you note Nick, it is the industry norm, and usually there is good reason for that!  To that end, if the Volvo-proprietary “C” filters were as inexpensive as the racors—I’d also stick to industry norm.  

I’d respectfully welcome any thinking and guidance.

Porter A54-154 with a  “H” model D3-110






On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:42 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

Hi Scott and Porter,

I choose to use a 10 or even 30 micron filter on the Racor followed by the Volvo secondary filter which is 2 micron I believe.

In my opinion by having the pre-filter at 2 micron you are in effect only having one filter. So in the event of major contamination the Racor will plug and the engine will suffer from fuel starvation. You may also damage the fuel pump, although on the 54 the fuel is gravity fed from the tank to the filters.

The same principle applies to the water maker. There is a course filter followed by the fine filter. You can not just go straight to the fine.

I know this is a controversial subject but that is my opinion….and the industry norm.

Nick

Amelia AML 54-019
Kilada Greece
On 9 Feb 2020, at 15:10, Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

I understand. We have the same setup. The dual racor (A vs B) and A+B if one wishes.  We keep the 2 micron on both A and B and use only A or B, switching back and forth.  Filter C is of course the very pricey Volvo-specific filter/fuel water separator, which is what I want to spare by using the 2 micron. I watch the pressure gauge on the racors a lot.  That’s why we change frequently, to keep pressures low.  We have no pre-pre filters.  

I remember a thread on this about a year ago, the 2 micron pre-filter argument.  That’s when we switched.  Its hard to be scientific when we have limited data re what works “best.”

Great comments on why to keep the tank full during storage.

Porter A54-152

On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:02 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

Porter,

I have the two racor filter setup. I consider this the primary filter / pre-filter.

Options:

1) FilterA only
2) FilterB only
3) FilterA and FilterB in parallel

Do you run the 2 micron filters here?

On my D3-110C there's a Volvo spin-on filter (2 micron) on the engine itself. We'll call that FilterC

Did you install a pre-filter before the Racors??
-- 
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 2nd Forestay on Super Maramu

eric freedman
 

Hi Steve,

We had a similar sail a 110 % Yankee cut headsail . It is made from 10.5 Oz material.

It is bulletproof and we have had it up in 40-45 knots.

It’s a great sail.

When we go offshore we always start with that sail and change it out if we have a forecast of extended light winds.

The shape when it is furled is not perfect however I would not want to drill a hole through my deck to mount a track.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2020 7:14 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] [Amel Yacht Owners] 2nd Forestay on Super Maramu

 

Hi Steve,

we have a 90% built for us by Super Sailmakers in Ft Lauderdale. We wanted a heavy weather sail. They made it with a high cut Yankee type foot to allow room for breaking seas over the deck. At the head they put a tape probably 2 meters long because the sail would have been too tall and narrow if it went to the top of the mast head fore stay. It looked incredibly small compared to the 155% and I commented to him it would only be of use in strong winds. He disagreed and was right. Over 10 knots true wind speed going to windward would be very close to the big sail performance. 15 knots and more as good or better and a whole lot easier to handle. So certainly the 90% could be rigged if you anticipate extended windward sailing.And if the wind gets too much it is furlable. We use the same outboard track as the big genoa

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 10 February 2020 at 12:39 Steve Bode <Whatsup@...> wrote:

This is a very interesting thread! I love the way Intention sails in all wind conditions! Last summer, we were punching into 30+ knots apparent with two reefs in the genoa, no main and one reef in the mizzen and she was ever so happy to do so. I was very pleased. 

Sorry if this is not the right thread for this question, but I see several people in this thread mention a 90% jib. That's what I'd like because sailing in the med, we often need to punch into the wind for days and a 90 would be built for the task. The issue is when we reef the genoa, while the sail shape is okay, the leads are so far outboard that we can't point. Again, I am NOT interested in rigging a staysail stay. I would drop the genoa and raise the 'blade' instead of the Genoa.
So, here are my questions;

1. Would buying a new 90 and laying a new track on the deck that was more inboard be a good idea or not?

2. Has anyone out there actually done something like this on their SM and what was your experience? I saw pictures of a SM with a self-tacking track setup (SV Nomad) and a staysail. Mind you, I am NOT interested in a staysail, I would drop the jib and rig the 90 on days when I know I'm headed upwind all day...or all week.

Many thanks for your input.

THIS IS SV NOMAD 


--
Steve Bode
Capt. SV Intention
Amel SM #117 (1994)
+1 415 710-6659 Mobile/Text/WhatsApp
facebook.com/stevebodesanfrancisco
svintention.com

Howes fuel treatment

eric freedman
 

Sorry the image is hard to read-

This is the write-up from Howes. It is used most of the time in fuel depots where the diesel is stored over the summer for home heating oil.

At Howes we understand the science and importance of year round lubricity and protection and our Meaner Power Kleaner is the proof. Safely eliminating water and removing the environment that creates bacteria, Meaner Power Kleaner contains no alcohol or harmful solvents and eliminates injector deposits. The end result is a performance enhancing product that protects your engine and boosts MPGs…guaranteed!

 

We then add Howes fuel treatment, This stuff is incredible. Please read the label. It also guaranteed 5% better fuel economy. PHOTO IS BELOW

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Sent: Sun
Howes Lubricator Meaner Power Diesel Kleaner HL306712day, February 09, 2020 6:37 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

 

All good points, James.

Working with dessicant dryers for air compressors, on a humid day, the crystals were pink (from clear) in a few hours. 

I fear that a proper dryer that one could set and forget for 6 months, if it exists, would be active, powered, and be another,complex system to maintain and monitor. Maybe a pressurized system like the ones on automobiles would work, that don’t allow air, readily into the system? I’ve not studied how they work, so I plead ignorance....😊

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Feb 9, 2020, at 5:06 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Matt,

 

  I agree.    The desiccant cartridges would need to be replaced from time to time  Most of the ones I have considered change colour indicating the need while others can be heated to drive off the moisture and returned to service.  I have been looking at some commercial solutions so the cost is fairly reasonable but more research is needed to determine the effectiveness and life expectancy in a marine environment.   If anyone has found a good workable solution for installed a desiccant in the vent line please share.

 

Best,

 

James

  

On Feb 9, 2020, at 3:10 PM, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

 

A desiccant/dryer would be a great idea. Finding one that is maintenance free, and passive, may be a problem.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Feb 9, 2020, at 12:23 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Some great discussion here.  One item that I did not see discussed that could be  helpful especially in humid climates is adding a dessicant dryer to the vent line.  Regular replacement and lubrication of the O ring seal at the fill cap is important as well.  Best of luck.

 

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

 

On Feb 9, 2020 11:49 AM, "Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io" <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

I agree Nick— You're right, certainly about the industry norm.  And I’m sure there are many theories on this: and mine may be incorrect.  But the way I think of it: Crud exists in a myriad of sizes.  Crud forms… then  gets into the filter system and clogs.  If i have a series of sequentially smaller sized filters, i simply clog them all. and then replace them all.  If a bolus of crud makes it into the sequential filtering setup: filters essentially sort the crud into smaller sizes at a great cost (especially with the last Volvo filter now being fouled).  So we've cruised with the 2 micron setup for about 500 hours of motoring from panama to NZ last year and it seemed to work well.  no issues.  Filters seemed pretty good looking when i changed them  Usually around 100 hrs,  (I previously was quite derelict about it, prior to really understanding how important clean fuel was.)  I have noticed the manometer pressure reading on the setup would climb slightly over the 100 hrs, but never concerningly high.  

So scenario above A, with ostensibly clean fuel, worked for us, for this while.

 

 

So… Scenario B: Cruddy fuel shows up.  A slosh of crud makes it into the filter setup. (is this an isolated bit of crud, or does it advertize a yet much larger crub problem in the tank)  Currently it would saturate the 2 micron first filter and pressures climb, engine shuts down alerting us to a pressure scenario  and we change filter: but now we know we have cruddy fuel and need to polish it and the tank. (and why I’d like a separate fuel polishing system on board.)  Heres where my scenario breaks down: it depends on the amount of crud: pump it out and through baja filter into jerry cans? then run engine off jerry cans?  or...( I do have a bunch of 10mn  and 30mn sizes as well) as well put those on and let the filters clean the crud out: but if I increase the racor size then ill be clogging my 130$ volvo filters very fast: i carry about 4 of those, They're proprietary and hard to get in places.  It turns into a "S" show.  

 

So what's governed our cruising: sail smart, with wind as much as possible so we motor little.  Praise our relatively large 900 litre tank, and the freedom it adds to be discriminate about fuel choice. When others are fueling out of necessity, i find myself adding fuel not because i think we're low, but…  hey were sailors and should keep topped up stores.  

 

I'd be surprised if I’d completely thought this through, I'm sure there are some folks who really understand this at a much deeper level and I would love to hear from them and you.

 

And as you note Nick, it is the industry norm, and usually there is good reason for that!  To that end, if the Volvo-proprietary “C” filters were as inexpensive as the racors—I’d also stick to industry norm.  

 

I’d respectfully welcome any thinking and guidance.

 

Porter A54-154 with a  “H” model D3-110

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:42 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

 

Hi Scott and Porter,

 

I choose to use a 10 or even 30 micron filter on the Racor followed by the Volvo secondary filter which is 2 micron I believe.

 

In my opinion by having the pre-filter at 2 micron you are in effect only having one filter. So in the event of major contamination the Racor will plug and the engine will suffer from fuel starvation. You may also damage the fuel pump, although on the 54 the fuel is gravity fed from the tank to the filters.

 

The same principle applies to the water maker. There is a course filter followed by the fine filter. You can not just go straight to the fine.

 

I know this is a controversial subject but that is my opinion….and the industry norm.

 

Nick

 

Amelia AML 54-019

Kilada Greece

On 9 Feb 2020, at 15:10, Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

 

I understand. We have the same setup. The dual racor (A vs B) and A+B if one wishes.  We keep the 2 micron on both A and B and use only A or B, switching back and forth.  Filter C is of course the very pricey Volvo-specific filter/fuel water separator, which is what I want to spare by using the 2 micron. I watch the pressure gauge on the racors a lot.  That’s why we change frequently, to keep pressures low.  We have no pre-pre filters.  

 

I remember a thread on this about a year ago, the 2 micron pre-filter argument.  That’s when we switched.  Its hard to be scientific when we have limited data re what works “best.”

 

Great comments on why to keep the tank full during storage.

 

Porter A54-152

 

On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:02 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

 

Porter,

I have the two racor filter setup. I consider this the primary filter / pre-filter.

Options:

1) FilterA only
2) FilterB only
3) FilterA and FilterB in parallel

Do you run the 2 micron filters here?

On my D3-110C there's a Volvo spin-on filter (2 micron) on the engine itself. We'll call that FilterC

Did you install a pre-filter before the Racors??
-- 
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

 

 

 

 

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 2nd Forestay on Super Maramu

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Steve,

we have a 90% built for us by Super Sailmakers in Ft Lauderdale. We wanted a heavy weather sail. They made it with a high cut Yankee type foot to allow room for breaking seas over the deck. At the head they put a tape probably 2 meters long because the sail would have been too tall and narrow if it went to the top of the mast head fore stay. It looked incredibly small compared to the 155% and I commented to him it would only be of use in strong winds. He disagreed and was right. Over 10 knots true wind speed going to windward would be very close to the big sail performance. 15 knots and more as good or better and a whole lot easier to handle. So certainly the 90% could be rigged if you anticipate extended windward sailing.And if the wind gets too much it is furlable. We use the same outboard track as the big genoa

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 10 February 2020 at 12:39 Steve Bode <Whatsup@...> wrote:

This is a very interesting thread! I love the way Intention sails in all wind conditions! Last summer, we were punching into 30+ knots apparent with two reefs in the genoa, no main and one reef in the mizzen and she was ever so happy to do so. I was very pleased. 

Sorry if this is not the right thread for this question, but I see several people in this thread mention a 90% jib. That's what I'd like because sailing in the med, we often need to punch into the wind for days and a 90 would be built for the task. The issue is when we reef the genoa, while the sail shape is okay, the leads are so far outboard that we can't point. Again, I am NOT interested in rigging a staysail stay. I would drop the genoa and raise the 'blade' instead of the Genoa.
So, here are my questions;

1. Would buying a new 90 and laying a new track on the deck that was more inboard be a good idea or not?

2. Has anyone out there actually done something like this on their SM and what was your experience? I saw pictures of a SM with a self-tacking track setup (SV Nomad) and a staysail. Mind you, I am NOT interested in a staysail, I would drop the jib and rig the 90 on days when I know I'm headed upwind all day...or all week.

Many thanks for your input.

THIS IS SV NOMAD 


--
Steve Bode
Capt. SV Intention
Amel SM #117 (1994)
+1 415 710-6659 Mobile/Text/WhatsApp
facebook.com/stevebodesanfrancisco
svintention.com

Re: How to totally Eliminate the problem--Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

eric freedman
 

 

 

On Kimberlite we use a number of steps to remove crud and bugs from our fuel.

After over 6000 engine hours and layups in the Caribbean with ½ full tanks we have never had a problem.

 

First we filter the incoming fuel before it gets into the tank through a hi volume fuel pump and then through a huge racor filter that you see on fuel pumps. I had this installed by Amel when I had her built with a Y valve. One way into the tank the other through a fuel pump and filter and then into the tank . Photos attached.- Thank You Ian and Judy,

 

We then add Howes fuel treatment, This stuff is incredible. Please read the label. It also guaranteed 5% better fuel economy. PHOTO IS BELOW

 

Lastly we have the dual Racor filter and we use a 2 micron filter and change it every 300 hours. It comes out almost clean every time.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Sent: Sun
Howes Lubricator Meaner Power Diesel Kleaner HL306712day, February 09, 2020 6:37 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

 

All good points, James.

Working with dessicant dryers for air compressors, on a humid day, the crystals were pink (from clear) in a few hours. 

I fear that a proper dryer that one could set and forget for 6 months, if it exists, would be active, powered, and be another,complex system to maintain and monitor. Maybe a pressurized system like the ones on automobiles would work, that don’t allow air, readily into the system? I’ve not studied how they work, so I plead ignorance....😊

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Feb 9, 2020, at 5:06 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Matt,

 

  I agree.    The desiccant cartridges would need to be replaced from time to time  Most of the ones I have considered change colour indicating the need while others can be heated to drive off the moisture and returned to service.  I have been looking at some commercial solutions so the cost is fairly reasonable but more research is needed to determine the effectiveness and life expectancy in a marine environment.   If anyone has found a good workable solution for installed a desiccant in the vent line please share.

 

Best,

 

James

  

On Feb 9, 2020, at 3:10 PM, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

 

A desiccant/dryer would be a great idea. Finding one that is maintenance free, and passive, may be a problem.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Feb 9, 2020, at 12:23 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Some great discussion here.  One item that I did not see discussed that could be  helpful especially in humid climates is adding a dessicant dryer to the vent line.  Regular replacement and lubrication of the O ring seal at the fill cap is important as well.  Best of luck.

 

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

 

On Feb 9, 2020 11:49 AM, "Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io" <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

I agree Nick— You're right, certainly about the industry norm.  And I’m sure there are many theories on this: and mine may be incorrect.  But the way I think of it: Crud exists in a myriad of sizes.  Crud forms… then  gets into the filter system and clogs.  If i have a series of sequentially smaller sized filters, i simply clog them all. and then replace them all.  If a bolus of crud makes it into the sequential filtering setup: filters essentially sort the crud into smaller sizes at a great cost (especially with the last Volvo filter now being fouled).  So we've cruised with the 2 micron setup for about 500 hours of motoring from panama to NZ last year and it seemed to work well.  no issues.  Filters seemed pretty good looking when i changed them  Usually around 100 hrs,  (I previously was quite derelict about it, prior to really understanding how important clean fuel was.)  I have noticed the manometer pressure reading on the setup would climb slightly over the 100 hrs, but never concerningly high.  

So scenario above A, with ostensibly clean fuel, worked for us, for this while.

 

 

So… Scenario B: Cruddy fuel shows up.  A slosh of crud makes it into the filter setup. (is this an isolated bit of crud, or does it advertize a yet much larger crub problem in the tank)  Currently it would saturate the 2 micron first filter and pressures climb, engine shuts down alerting us to a pressure scenario  and we change filter: but now we know we have cruddy fuel and need to polish it and the tank. (and why I’d like a separate fuel polishing system on board.)  Heres where my scenario breaks down: it depends on the amount of crud: pump it out and through baja filter into jerry cans? then run engine off jerry cans?  or...( I do have a bunch of 10mn  and 30mn sizes as well) as well put those on and let the filters clean the crud out: but if I increase the racor size then ill be clogging my 130$ volvo filters very fast: i carry about 4 of those, They're proprietary and hard to get in places.  It turns into a "S" show.  

 

So what's governed our cruising: sail smart, with wind as much as possible so we motor little.  Praise our relatively large 900 litre tank, and the freedom it adds to be discriminate about fuel choice. When others are fueling out of necessity, i find myself adding fuel not because i think we're low, but…  hey were sailors and should keep topped up stores.  

 

I'd be surprised if I’d completely thought this through, I'm sure there are some folks who really understand this at a much deeper level and I would love to hear from them and you.

 

And as you note Nick, it is the industry norm, and usually there is good reason for that!  To that end, if the Volvo-proprietary “C” filters were as inexpensive as the racors—I’d also stick to industry norm.  

 

I’d respectfully welcome any thinking and guidance.

 

Porter A54-154 with a  “H” model D3-110

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:42 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

 

Hi Scott and Porter,

 

I choose to use a 10 or even 30 micron filter on the Racor followed by the Volvo secondary filter which is 2 micron I believe.

 

In my opinion by having the pre-filter at 2 micron you are in effect only having one filter. So in the event of major contamination the Racor will plug and the engine will suffer from fuel starvation. You may also damage the fuel pump, although on the 54 the fuel is gravity fed from the tank to the filters.

 

The same principle applies to the water maker. There is a course filter followed by the fine filter. You can not just go straight to the fine.

 

I know this is a controversial subject but that is my opinion….and the industry norm.

 

Nick

 

Amelia AML 54-019

Kilada Greece

On 9 Feb 2020, at 15:10, Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

 

I understand. We have the same setup. The dual racor (A vs B) and A+B if one wishes.  We keep the 2 micron on both A and B and use only A or B, switching back and forth.  Filter C is of course the very pricey Volvo-specific filter/fuel water separator, which is what I want to spare by using the 2 micron. I watch the pressure gauge on the racors a lot.  That’s why we change frequently, to keep pressures low.  We have no pre-pre filters.  

 

I remember a thread on this about a year ago, the 2 micron pre-filter argument.  That’s when we switched.  Its hard to be scientific when we have limited data re what works “best.”

 

Great comments on why to keep the tank full during storage.

 

Porter A54-152

 

On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:02 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

 

Porter,

I have the two racor filter setup. I consider this the primary filter / pre-filter.

Options:

1) FilterA only
2) FilterB only
3) FilterA and FilterB in parallel

Do you run the 2 micron filters here?

On my D3-110C there's a Volvo spin-on filter (2 micron) on the engine itself. We'll call that FilterC

Did you install a pre-filter before the Racors??
-- 
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com