Date   

A54: Cable length between main mast head and chart table

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi all,

Does anyone know the precise length of cable required to go from the top of the main mast to the chart table through the standard conduit on the Amel 54? For instance for the VHF antenna cable.

I’m considering using an pre-crimped FME-terminated RG-8x VHF cable and I need to select the correct length.

A contact at Pochon said « probably » 25m and a trusted owner said maybe 28m.


Thanks
Thomas
GARULFO 
A54-122
Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia 



Re: BOW THRUSTER

 

I think you completely disassembled the BT. Yours may be old enough that it has locking pins for the larger gear. If so, did you miss these pins:
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar
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On Mon, Feb 10, 2020 at 3:41 AM Bernd Spanner <bernd.spanner@...> wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi,

so finally my BT is back in again (SN). I had the impression that it has never had a overhaul since 25 years. But... amazingly all gears and bearings are still in excellent condition except the seals which were basically gone.
However, after everything was assembled again and connected to the motor, it worked perfectly up n down and more powerful left n right (with oil and not honey in the BT) but unfortunately after some tests the gear from the motor disconnected from the BT. Meaning Motor is turning but BT is dead. all screws are in and tight... I didnt have time to furthet investigate and will ne gone for a while now thinking about it...🧐
Anyone with the same experience or ideas?!
Also some pics attached 
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal


Re: A54 bow thruster directly to battery or through main switches?

Sv Garulfo
 

Scott,

I am with Ruedi on that one. You may have voltage but a bad cable crimp connection may prevent current to flow. I you have a clamp amp meters, you can easily check current is within spec. 
I would check that short cable. 


Hope you’ll quickly find a solution. 


Best 

Thomas



On Mon, 10 Feb 2020 at 06:35, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:
Hi Scott, 
Matt's input sounds familiar to me and it is worth to touch each and every cable inside and around the Sleipner BT.

I had a similar experience few month ago where the BT sometimes worked and sometimes not. I measured all cables with the Volt Meter and all the circuits showed me the Voltage as expected in working order. I was close to give up after tested all Voltages, also the BT-Motor including the brushes looked good. Then I started (with the Ohm-Meter) to measure  the residences on the cables which should be very low with that sizes of cables. I found a short cable who had a bit higher resistant.

But the connections looked good because the cable and cable-ring terminals where put together with shrink-tubes. I disconnected the cable and pulled on it and the ring-terminal came off. The result you can find on the pictures attached. The cable looked like welded OFF¨! New cables solved the problem. 

Ruedi Waldispuehl
SV WASABI - Marina di Ragusa (Sicily)
AMEL 54 #55 (2007)


Re: SM Prop Shaft Seal direction and Bushing

 

If you had a choice of:
Choice A protecting the loss of oil and destruction of the C-Drive
Choice B protecting from some seawater intrusion causing a haulout
Which would you choose?
image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar
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On Sun, Feb 9, 2020 at 11:15 AM Jean-Pierre Massicotte <Massicotte.j.p@...> wrote:
Hello Mike, Amel recommandations is to change the seals and bushing every 700 h of use. Also recommend 2 seals protecting the oil side and one on the water side.

We before crossing the Pacific we reverse this logic since haul up facility are fare apart and if water get in here it could make a big mess in the engine room by over flowing.
(We use the shaft alternator during all crossing)
It's very important to clean well the seal seating on the water side and make sure no residue remain.

Regards

Jean Pierre Massicotte
SN 51

On Sun., Feb. 9, 2020, 09:51 Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io, <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Mike,
I suspect there is nothing new on this nor any particular consensus - it may well have migrated from engineering to philosophy ;-)
If yours is fine you may want to follow the adage of, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".  Or change it and in a couple of years add to the anecdotal evidence being accumulated.
Cheers, Craig


Re: Recommended solar panel brand

Matt Salatino
 

Years ago, when manufacturing techniques were highly variable, different manufacturers had a big impact on panel reliability. These days, the solar cell is the main differentiator, and mostly based on improved efficiency. If you’re satisfied with size vs output, Trina is a fine manufacturer.
We used SunPower (a premium brand) and Trina (less expensive, lower efficiency cells), but had better reliability from the Trina panels. Our SunPower was down to 55% of rated output after 4 years. They also would not honor warranty, as it wasn’t a home installation made by a professional installer. They refused to warranty on a boat. The replacement Trina’s were at 100%, 5 years later. Given the choices today, if the output and size of the Trina panels met my requirements, I’d happily go with them.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 10, 2020, at 10:46 AM, David Crisp <david@...> wrote:

I've been scouring this group and the web looking at what solar panels to get. The various brands appear to all offer very similar specifications yet the price variance is huge.
For example an LG 330 NeON 2Black panel is UK£223 vs. the Trina Solar, 335W Half Cut Mono Solar Module at UK£109 (all exVAT). 
The only significant difference between the two brands that I can see is in the warranty performance after 25 years: LG warranty is for 90% of initial spec'n vs. the Trinasolar's 81%.
I see some of you have bought LG, someone else has gone for Watts/£ and Bisol. Has anyone discovered any major difference between the brands? Any recommendations?

--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: Volvo Penta MD21A - Lift pump kit and radiator cap

marklesparkle59
 

Hi Andrew,
I use parts4engines. They are helpful and have a useful website. Some older Volvo parts are identical to Perkins parts and much cheaper.
Mark Porter
Sea Hobo
Sharki #96



Sent from my Samsung device


-------- Original message --------
From: Andrew Eaves <andyeaves@...>
Date: 10/02/2020 15:26 (GMT+00:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo Penta MD21A - Lift pump kit and radiator cap

Hi all,

Spoken to a number of Volvo dealers here in Greece and the UK and the two above parts are obsolete. So in Volvo terms, 'we no longer sell a simple radiator cap, simply replace the engine instead'.

OK so being slightly funny here but this is the issue.

I can send a picture but on Ebay this is classed as a vintage radiator cap which at 40+ years old I agree with, however can anyone recommend places to get a simple service kit for a lift pump and more importantly this radiator cap?

Thanks all

Andrew


Re: Recommended solar panel brand

Ryan Meador
 

We've had good experience with SunPower.  We were looking specifically for flexible panels for our bimini because we didn't want to add an arch, so maybe what we found isn't quite applicable to you.  There is a huge variance in the quality and price, as you discovered.  My wife, Kelly, has a background in solar power and did all the research for our installation.  She decided on SunPower E-flex 100W panels which have very high efficiency and low cost (now they're 110W in the same size and price).  We bought them through Sun Powered Yachts.  We've been very happy with the performance -- our 500W of panels meets over 90% of our demand while at anchor (and probably exceeds demand in northern latitudes, but we haven't collected as much data outside the tropics).  Kelly wrote up a detailed article on our installation which was published in January's issue of Sail Magazine.  Unfortunately it's not online yet, so I can't give you a link.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Mon, Feb 10, 2020 at 10:46 AM David Crisp <david@...> wrote:
I've been scouring this group and the web looking at what solar panels to get. The various brands appear to all offer very similar specifications yet the price variance is huge.
For example an LG 330 NeON 2Black panel is UK£223 vs. the Trina Solar, 335W Half Cut Mono Solar Module at UK£109 (all exVAT). 
The only significant difference between the two brands that I can see is in the warranty performance after 25 years: LG warranty is for 90% of initial spec'n vs. the Trinasolar's 81%.
I see some of you have bought LG, someone else has gone for Watts/£ and Bisol. Has anyone discovered any major difference between the brands? Any recommendations?

--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: A54 bow thruster directly to battery or through main switches?

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Scott, 
Matt's input sounds familiar to me and it is worth to touch each and every cable inside and around the Sleipner BT.

I had a similar experience few month ago where the BT sometimes worked and sometimes not. I measured all cables with the Volt Meter and all the circuits showed me the Voltage as expected in working order. I was close to give up after tested all Voltages, also the BT-Motor including the brushes looked good. Then I started (with the Ohm-Meter) to measure  the residences on the cables which should be very low with that sizes of cables. I found a short cable who had a bit higher resistant.

But the connections looked good because the cable and cable-ring terminals where put together with shrink-tubes. I disconnected the cable and pulled on it and the ring-terminal came off. The result you can find on the pictures attached. The cable looked like welded OFF¨! New cables solved the problem. 

Ruedi Waldispuehl
SV WASABI - Marina di Ragusa (Sicily)
AMEL 54 #55 (2007)


Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug

Mark Erdos
 

For those following this thread, here is a link that may provide more insight (there are also links within the link):

 

https://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/preventing-fuel-problems-in-marine-diesel-engines

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Galapagos

www.creampuff.us

 

 


Re: Volvo Penta MD21A - Lift pump kit and radiator cap

Arnold Mente
 

Hi Andrew,

Takt a look on parts4engines.com!

Best 

Arnold
SY Zephyr
SM203

Am 10.02.2020 um 16:26 schrieb Andrew Eaves <andyeaves@...>:

Hi all,

Spoken to a number of Volvo dealers here in Greece and the UK and the two above parts are obsolete. So in Volvo terms, 'we no longer sell a simple radiator cap, simply replace the engine instead'.

OK so being slightly funny here but this is the issue.

I can send a picture but on Ebay this is classed as a vintage radiator cap which at 40+ years old I agree with, however can anyone recommend places to get a simple service kit for a lift pump and more importantly this radiator cap?

Thanks all

Andrew



--
Arnold
SY Zephyr SM203


Recommended solar panel brand

David Crisp
 

I've been scouring this group and the web looking at what solar panels to get. The various brands appear to all offer very similar specifications yet the price variance is huge.
For example an LG 330 NeON 2Black panel is UK£223 vs. the Trina Solar, 335W Half Cut Mono Solar Module at UK£109 (all exVAT). 
The only significant difference between the two brands that I can see is in the warranty performance after 25 years: LG warranty is for 90% of initial spec'n vs. the Trinasolar's 81%.
I see some of you have bought LG, someone else has gone for Watts/£ and Bisol. Has anyone discovered any major difference between the brands? Any recommendations?

--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: Howes fuel treatment

Matt Salatino
 

You certainly don’t need to fill your tank to the top, if you don’t care about collecting water in your fuel, and the associated issues.
It’s certainly your choice!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 10, 2020, at 10:13 AM, Bernd Spanner <bernd.spanner@...> wrote:

Why fill up your tank to the max when you know where you want to go?

I think filling it up to the max only makes sense when you go for a really long passage and then you add some anti diesel bug adds.
When you fly on an airliner to your boat they only take as much fuel as they need plus alternate, contingency and a bit more for unforeseens.

--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal


Volvo Penta MD21A - Lift pump kit and radiator cap

Andrew Eaves
 

Hi all,

Spoken to a number of Volvo dealers here in Greece and the UK and the two above parts are obsolete. So in Volvo terms, 'we no longer sell a simple radiator cap, simply replace the engine instead'.

OK so being slightly funny here but this is the issue.

I can send a picture but on Ebay this is classed as a vintage radiator cap which at 40+ years old I agree with, however can anyone recommend places to get a simple service kit for a lift pump and more importantly this radiator cap?

Thanks all

Andrew


Re: Howes fuel treatment

Bernd Spanner
 

Why fill up your tank to the max when you know where you want to go?

I think filling it up to the max only makes sense when you go for a really long passage and then you add some anti diesel bug adds.
When you fly on an airliner to your boat they only take as much fuel as they need plus alternate, contingency and a bit more for unforeseens.

--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal


Re: Amel 55 Steering Cable Information and Supplier

Joerg Esdorn
 

Bill, they went to hydraulic steering somewhere around #50 - mine was one of the first boats with hydraulic steering.  Paul, sorry but I have no information on your request.  

Joerg Esdorn
A55 #53
Kincsem, currently on the hard in Vigo, Spain


Re: A54 bow thruster directly to battery or through main switches?

 

Scott, 

I am very sure you've checked this, but it sounds like an intermittent break in the low amp control circuit, and probably the low position sensor (analog or newer sensor) and/corresponding relay(s).  

Another 54 owner experienced exactly this problem. He found the low position normally closed analog push botton to be defective. Yet another had the same problem and found 1 of the 4 relays to be faulty. 

I think you can test the control side of the motor's high amp solenoid switch for control-side loss of power this way: Lower the BT. Disconnect the large red positive wire. Hold the joystick to either side while checking amps on the control side of the large solenoid. Hold the switch long enough to have experienced a shutdown based on previous experience. If necessary, repeat in the other joystick direction. I believe that the above will tell you if it is the motor or the control circuit.

Good luck!

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Feb 9, 2020, 2:17 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Borrow several voltmeters. Attach them to the BT wiring at a few places along the wiring path. Run the BT to failure, check each voltmeter for voltage. Thus will help you locate the problem. Its likely a thermal open failure. Some termination, when cool, transfers current. Its got a resistive problem (maybe a corroded or loose ring terminal?). It heats as the BT operates. When it gets warm enough, mechanical movement causes an open, and it stops. When it cools, the process starts again. Also, it possible that after the BT stops, to quickly lay hands (or use an IR thermometer) to check for a hot termination somewhere along the wiring path. That would be your suspect problem location.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Feb 9, 2020, at 12:34 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Scott,

    That is a strange one.  I would try measuring the voltage at the motor during operation to what is going on.  If you lose power at the BT during your test then back track the BT wiring  while operating the BT to find the fault.  If you have voltage at the motor when it stops during your test then look into the motor.  Maybe a relay issue?   Best of luck.  
James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Feb 9, 2020 9:07 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Our bow thruster was indeed wired through a switch, too.

I've worked with Sleipner to try to isolate the intermittent functioning problem to no avail. It runs full speed and then stops momentarily and then will start again. No slowdown to indicate drop in voltage. The Amel joystick has been cleaned and tested and shows nearly zero ohms on activation.

Every switch and thermal protection within the Sidepower thruster has been "jumpered" and it still doesn't work. I was hoping the problem was the main battery switch but I moved the positive bow thruster supply wire from the secondary side of the switch directly to the battery side. The only thing left is the motor itself but the brushes and commutator look perfect. The annoying bit is that this motor is only a year old and Sleipner wants me to ship it back to them from Panama at my cost, wait for them to test it, get warranty approval, ship it back (at my cost) and pay customs duty. I might as well buy a new motor! With a canal appointment, I clearly don't want to do this.

Anyone have any other ideas on what I should check? I haven't tested voltage at the BT during operation because I don't have alligator clips, but the fact that the BT either runs full speed or not at all, without any slowdown indicates to me that it's not an issue with enough voltage getting to the BT.


--Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Steering racks for SN, SM & 54

karkauai
 

Excellent!  We will order one in Martinique to have as a spare.

Thanks
Kent and Iris
SM 243
Kristy
Bahamas heading South

On Feb 9, 2020 11:17 AM, amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:
Thanks Bill
On the to do list 
Tom
Aphrodite 


On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:04 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Tom,

I am not sure. I believe that Maramus have the same rack. You should send an email to SAV"@"Amel.fr and ask. Please let me know at email below what they say.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar
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On Sun, Feb 9, 2020 at 9:53 AM amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:
Good day Bill
I was wondering if Amel would have the racks for a 1983 Maramu # 125.
Barra De Navidad Mexico
200 miles to go for a circumnavigation !!
Thanks TOM Deasy 


On Feb 7, 2020, at 9:07 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


This is to notify you that SAV"at"Amel.fr will have the steering racks available to ship in a few weeks. I understand that they have them, and are currently testing the installation.

I would like to point out to everyone that this is really admirable on the part of Amel. When I contacted the US branch of the company that originally made these racks, there was not any desire on their part to make these discontinued racks available. I am not sure if Amel convinced them, or found someone else to make the racks, but in either case, Amel used their expertise and leverage to support owners with a discontinued manufacturer's part that Amel has not used since the last 54 was produced. Among boat builders, I believe this is remarkable. I know that Maud and Thierry were very supportive of all of us.

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar
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Re: New Wheel Leather

karkauai
 

We want to wrap our wheel and companionway handrail, too.  That's the nicest one I have seen yet!  Does that braid have a name?  Instructions on how to do it?

Michelle, you are hired!

Thanks

Kent and Iris
SM 243
Kristy
Bahamas, heading South

On Feb 8, 2020 3:33 AM, Steve Bode <Whatsup@...> wrote:
I think Michelle did a really nice job on our helm...

--
Steve Bode
Capt. SV Intention
Amel SM #117 (1994)
+1 415 710-6659 Mobile/Text/WhatsApp
facebook.com/stevebodesanfrancisco
svintention.com


Re: Selling an Amel Mango

Frederic F
 

Thank you very much to all for your tips, sounds great.

We will contact him.

All the best
Frederic


BOW THRUSTER

Bernd Spanner
 
Edited

Hi,

so finally my BT is back in again (SN). I had the impression that it has never had a overhaul since 25 years. But... amazingly all gears and bearings are still in excellent condition except the seals which were basically gone.
However, after everything was assembled again and connected to the motor, it worked perfectly up n down and more powerful left n right (with oil and not honey in the BT) but unfortunately after some tests the gear from the motor disconnected from the BT. Meaning Motor is turning but BT is dead. all screws are in and tight... I didnt have time to furthet investigate and will ne gone for a while now thinking about it...🧐
Anyone with the same experience or ideas?!
Also some pics attached 
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal