From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Scott SV Tengah
Sent: 18 February 2020 12:24
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Recommended solar panel brand

Paul:

Exactly right. I saw a test where they wired multiple panels parallel and serial and saw that partial shading from booms/sails really dropped output on serially connected panels. I was able to obtain the same results when performing the same experiment.

Where do you have your MPPT? I have all six wires running from the arch to two switches (pos/neg) in the starboard side of the lazarette. With the short run and only one panel per pair for this section, I don't need super thick cables. Then I run a single pair of 13mm2 wires to the MPPT located near the boat's main switches. That fit in the conduit with room to spare and I believe the calcs showed very acceptable voltage drop even at the max 960watt output.

There is some argument that the higher voltage with serial will turn on the mppt earlier since it requires (battery voltage+5v) to startup, but frankly, I am fine missing out on a few minutes of early morning sun. I'm also thinking that 35-40 volts on the parallel panels might be safer in the event of a catastrophic event. 120-130v DC could hurt.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

[Edited Message Follows]
[Reason: Not sure why previous text didn't post]

Mohammad,

1) I have a Highfield CL310 HYP as does Dean. The transom "lip" where the tubes are glued was bent when it arrived. Probably bad packaging. This is not the first time I have heard of this - Highfield fixed it under warranty after a bit of complaining. 

2) The CL310 will fit with a bit of modification. Dean described the eye he mounted in the bow locker and I did the same. You will also need to mount some eyes, facing inwards, on the triangular transom supports as far forward as you can. Then place a metal ring halfway between the rings using rope lashing. It fits fine. I have a Suzuki 20AS which does not rotate 90 degrees so it takes a bit of positioning to have it all fit. I then use a line through the built in "eyes" on the dinghy stern floor up to the ring where the davit lines/wires come out of, to secure the dinghy. Don't rely on the lifting wires to hold up the dinghy once underway.  While you're at it, change the davit wires to 12 strand dyneema. You can do it with very little modification - Simpson wanted 4000GBP for a "dyneema conversion kit" and it's simply unnecessary. You can do it yourself if you know how to splice 12 strand dyneema or pay a rigger 100euros.

For the bow, I secure the dinghy using a high quality stainless/aluminum ratchet with one end attached to the eye at the end of the davit arm and the other to a loop secured to the "armpit" of the davits. 

The reason why I did not go for the CL340 is two fold:

a) I put the dinghy on the aft deck and the outboard in the lazarette on big passages. Coming around Cape Hatteras and even crossing the Med in fall, I have seen some waves from astern that may have swamped a hanging dinghy. I have also had the dinghy come slightly loose while sailing and while the wasn't a big deal on a day sail or short overnighter, I wouldn't want to deal with it in the middle of an Indian Ocean gale, far offshore. With the CL310 I can position the dinghy upside down on the aft deck and have it NOT protrude into the cockpit nor have it interfere with the mizzen track. It barely fits.  I don't think the CL340 will fit unless you put it diagonally.

b) When it's just me and the misses doing a beach landing, with swell, we are at our limit carrying the CL310 with a 20hp engine. I tried to drag my friend's CL340 up a beach with him (he's 100kg and 195cm tall) and we struggled. In the Med, dinghy docks were aplenty. Less so in some parts of the Caribbean and probably even less so in the South Pacific. 

5) I went with Hypalon. I believe I paid 3700 euros total for my CL310 HYP. Not sure where you are but I bought it from a dealer in Slovenia VAT-free. Hypalon was not much more in our case and the cost of chaps was more than the upcharge for hypalon. In the tropics, it was a no brainer for me. I have a PVC backup rollup dinghy and it's faring far worse.

Hope this helps.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Here are some responses to Mohammad's questions:
1.  I have a Honda 20HP outboard, which is quite heavy (but the same weight as the 15HP).  The boat behaves well with it - no issues.  
2.  I can plane with 4 people in it but not too much luggage.  This was my objective.
3.  I don't think I have any options - unless the 2 lockers upfront are an option.  One of them is for the gas tank and the other for the anchor.  Work well.  Maybe it would be nice to have a cleat for the anchor line.  
4. No issues.  After 3 years of trying to get the dinghy to stop swinging around and the engine throttle taking the load when sailing on starboard tack (because the dinghy slides over when the boat heels), I now have very little movement.  I also have 5 cm wide belts as tie downs.  
5.  Yes, on the 55 the dinghy fits perfectly sideways in front of the traveler and behind the mizzen.  

I first saw the rounded dinghy stops on the davits of Fortuna II, Paul Brown's boat.  I modified them to give a few cm more space between the davits and the dinghy because the strops would otherwise have bottomed out against the davits.  If you have different lifting strops, you can have the space reduced which brings the dinghy marginally further up.  

I hope this helps.  

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem

Hi Steve,

In my opinion a 47kg Mantus is overkill. Remember that the system is as strong as its weakest link. Pay particular attention to swivels and other connectors. 

I would suggest looking for something around 40kg as a maximum. For my 54 I chose a 37kg Spade anchor. When it is well set I can not budge it with a lot of power, I also went for new 10mm Grade 70 chain rather than the grade 40 and a massive Mantus swivel and special shackle that is as strong as the grade 70 chain. The original 30kg WASI is now a second anchor, but in my view it is undersized and a bit old fashioned. It does however fit well on the port roller, and is ready to go, and more or less manageable from a dinghy.

Obviously there is a good argument for a massive anchor, but as you point out you must consider the windlass and the rest of the system.

All in my humble opinion.

Nick

Amelia AML 54-019

Kilada Greece.

On 18 Feb 2020, at 08:30, Stephen Nicholson <stevenich@...> wrote:

Hello everyone,
I am about to purchase a new Mantus 47 kg (105lb) galvanised anchor for my Super Maramu, which is the same size as that on SvDelos, but quite large for an SM which seem to usually have anchors around 30kg. Unfortunately, I have been unable to find out how Delos have got on with it, but most experienced sailors say it is better to go bigger for the extra security.  With an all chain rode, 10mm I think, am I putting too much strain on the windlass on a daily basis? I would appreciate your thoughts and recommendations.
Steve Nicholson
SM Antigua II #89