Problem dismantling the main furler worm gear box
Have problem to dismantle the shaft (see picture) from the main furling gear box. I need to get off the Aluminum "NOB" that connect to the main furler.
The inner shaft with the Aluminium "NOB" is totally stuck. Any suggestion how the get the aluminium "NOB" off the inner shaft? Hopefully I can purchase the inner shaft from Maud, and maybe she has the Aluminium "NOB" as well. The Leroy Sumer gear box is available from Amel. Anyone who have manage to get the worm gear off the outer shaft? On the out haul gear box the worm gear is attached with a retaining ring and easy to take off, but no retaining ring to be found in the furling gear box? Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259
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Re: Lubricants, Sealants, etc. & thanks to Bill Kinney
scentstone
Hi Bill and thank you again for the effort to ease the sailor's life. I was trained in La Rochelle by Daniel Jourdain who was the mechanics at Amel's pontoon for the last 20 years. Amel use the reference Sogelub MD 466 EP in many locations as I did for years with very satisfying results… [Note] Perhaps not very easy to get abroad but for those who like to know. I will be happy to help Best Fred S/V ScentStone SM2K #375
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Re: Iridium go external antenna location
Hi Courtney, we keep it there all of the time. Just finished beating from Panama to the Dominican Republic via Cartagena. I feel more secure with it there than in the rear lazarette. It feels secure. Regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387
On Wed, Mar 4, 2020, 4:35 PM Courtney Gorman via Groups.Io <Itsfun1=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: Iridium go external antenna location
I’ve used an Iridium Go on a ocean trip once and did not use an external antenna at all. If you put the put the device under the sprayhood it works fine. You can get a waterproof USB cable for the power supply and that is all you need apart from an USB charger outlet at the helm. When I talked to the supplier about this he said the value of the external antenna is very limited.
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Re: More Options for Rub Rail Inserts
Karen Smith
We have enough people interested in signing on, it's looking like a go. We'll be in touch with the manufacturer Monday morning to deliver a sample off Harmonie so they can design the die, get details, and finalize price and schedule.
So if you are on the fence about it, get in touch and let us know you're interested.
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Re: Front furler Bamar MEJ upgrade to EJF? Is it worth it?
Scott SV Tengah
No, they kept the original Amel spec.
On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 5:27 PM Jamie Wendell <mysticshadow54@...> wrote: Hey Scott, I forgot to ask you. Did Phillip upgrade the size of your main mast shrouds when you replaced your standing rig - as noted by Bill Rouse?
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Re: Front furler Bamar MEJ upgrade to EJF? Is it worth it?
Jamie Wendell
Hey Scott, I forgot to ask you. Did Phillip upgrade the size of your main mast shrouds when you replaced your standing rig - as noted by Bill Rouse?
I just missed that and may have him upgrade the size when I go back next year. Safe travels. Jamie Phantom A54 #44
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Re: Front furler Bamar MEJ upgrade to EJF? Is it worth it?
Scott SV Tengah
Oh and while you're in ther area, I'd suggest having Caraibe Marine do it in Le Marin, Martinique. Pick up some spare parts from the Amel office while you're there.
-- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Front furler Bamar MEJ upgrade to EJF? Is it worth it?
Scott SV Tengah
I have had the Bamar EJF for about a year and a half. They are definitely better than the old MEJ, but I did have to replace the Genoa EJF AGAIN after 6 months due to water ingress. Luckily Bamar covered it. My MEJ sounded like a dying cat and then eventually just gave up. Apparently the top seals dry out and water fills them. The EJF seem to work pretty well, though I wish I didn't have to replace the staysail furler since it really doesn't have super heavy loads. A manual system there would have made me perfectly happy.
Secondly, I was getting corrosion between the black aluminum casing and the stainless. As Olivier mentioned, prior to 2009, the bonding system and hence "mass light" was not connected to the rigging. I had an electrical leak related to the bow nav lights and a bit from the starboard windlass and it was causing all sorts of corrosion and wasn't detectable using the mass light. I've since fixed the electrical leak and through my replacement Shakespeare VHF antenna, the rigging is connected to the bonding system (as it is 2009+ Amels). -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Lubricants, Sealants, etc. & thanks to Bill Kinney
I have used Molykote on the water-maker to lube the seals for assembly. Good stuff!
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Galapagos www.creampuff.us
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
[mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 3:54 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Lubricants, Sealants, etc. & thanks to Bill Kinney
All,
Most of you know Bill Kinney. He is aboard SM #160 Harmonie with Karen Smith. He hasn't posted to the group lately, and I mentioned that to him recently. About a week ago, I ran into Bill and Karen when I went to dinner in Ft Lauderdale with mutual friends, Jeremie and Diane Mailloux, A54 #45 LEMA. I had a great time with this diverse group.
Anyway, to my point. Bill found something better than Trident Silicone grease, which I recommend for O rings, etc. Bill's find is made by DOW and is MOLYKOTE. It is very similar to Trident, except that it is much thicker and stickier. After recommending Trident for well over 10 years, I have switched my recommendation to MOLYKOTE. BTW, it is especially good for mounting an O Ring vertically like when working on a Jabsco "Not So Quiet" Macerator Pump. If you have owned an Amel with electric flush for longer than 6 months, you know what I mean!😀
I have included a page from my book on recommended Lubricants, Sealants, etc. Note the little Amazon "a." All, but one of these is available on Amazon.
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Re: More Options for Rub Rail Inserts
Patrick McAneny
Karen, On my property I have two ponds, a stream and two waterfalls all lined with EPDM , the liner is supposed to last at least twenty years. However I built another pond for a house I built 32 yrs.ago for a client, and that liner is still intact ,and some of it has been exposed to partial sun all these yrs. So its tuff stuff. I will leave mine long as Gary Silver suggested , and cut it a bit short if its hot ,or leave long if cooler . Count me in if you put it together,
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message-----
From: Karen Smith via Groups.Io <karenharmonie@...> To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Sent: Fri, Mar 6, 2020 3:57 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] More Options for Rub Rail Inserts We do not yet know for sure what the old inserts are made of, but EDPM rubber is used uncovered as a membrane for flat roofs, and typically has a warranted life span of 30 years.
Rubber like this is actually only about 25% EDPM plastic. They are roughly 50% "filler/pigment". For black rubber, this might be carbon black, for white it would be titanium dioxide, for red it would be a blend of iron oxide. The rest of the formulation is various "oils" that serve to make it "rubbery" instead of brittle. If the wrong oils are used, they can evaporate over time, and the whole part shrinks. We will confirm the long term dimensional stability of the extrusion with the manufacturer. I'm thinking that over 50 feet, shrinkage of 1" is tolerable, leaving just a bit more of a gap at the back of the rail than it started with. That's about 0.2%, and gives me a number to look for.
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Re: More Options for Rub Rail Inserts
Karen Smith
We do not yet know for sure what the old inserts are made of, but EDPM rubber is used uncovered as a membrane for flat roofs, and typically has a warranted life span of 30 years.
Rubber like this is actually only about 25% EDPM plastic. They are roughly 50% "filler/pigment". For black rubber, this might be carbon black, for white it would be titanium dioxide, for red it would be a blend of iron oxide. The rest of the formulation is various "oils" that serve to make it "rubbery" instead of brittle. If the wrong oils are used, they can evaporate over time, and the whole part shrinks. We will confirm the long term dimensional stability of the extrusion with the manufacturer. I'm thinking that over 50 feet, shrinkage of 1" is tolerable, leaving just a bit more of a gap at the back of the rail than it started with. That's about 0.2%, and gives me a number to look for.
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Lubricants, Sealants, etc. & thanks to Bill Kinney
All, Most of you know Bill Kinney. He is aboard SM #160 Harmonie with Karen Smith. He hasn't posted to the group lately, and I mentioned that to him recently. About a week ago, I ran into Bill and Karen when I went to dinner in Ft Lauderdale with mutual friends, Jeremie and Diane Mailloux, A54 #45 LEMA. I had a great time with this diverse group. Anyway, to my point. Bill found something better than Trident Silicone grease, which I recommend for O rings, etc. Bill's find is made by DOW and is MOLYKOTE. It is very similar to Trident, except that it is much thicker and stickier. After recommending Trident for well over 10 years, I have switched my recommendation to MOLYKOTE. BTW, it is especially good for mounting an O Ring vertically like when working on a Jabsco "Not So Quiet" Macerator Pump. If you have owned an Amel with electric flush for longer than 6 months, you know what I mean!😀 I have included a page from my book on recommended Lubricants, Sealants, etc. Note the little Amazon "a." All, but one of these is available on Amazon.
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Re: More Options for Rub Rail Inserts
Hi Joel, thanks for that info. We are looking at a paint made specifically for EPDM. Do you know if anyone has tried that? Is the OEM insert made of EPDM? Thanks again Kent and Iris SM 243 Kristy
On Mar 6, 2020 1:52 PM, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:
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Re: More Options for Rub Rail Inserts
Thanks Karen/Bill, we are interested depending on price. We'd have to take it with us on a plane. Iris looked up EPDM and found a potential problem of shrinkage when used on roofs. Can you ask the manufacturer what we could expect in that regard. Thanks again. Kent and Iris Robertson SM 243 Kristy
On Mar 3, 2020 5:24 PM, "Karen Smith via Groups.Io" <karenharmonie@...> wrote:
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Re: More Options for Rub Rail Inserts
amelforme
Once again, more than you ever wanted to know about something Amel,
As preparing Amel boats for resale has been a major part of my life for nearly 40 years now, putting the best face forward to new prospects is important, especially the first moments they see the boat. You never get a second chance to make a first impression. All the Amel synthetic rubber rub rails such as on the older Kirk, Euros , Meltem, Sharki, Maramu and Mango and then the scupper/filler type on the Santorin and all but the last series of Red Line Super Maramu 2000’s are generally one of the hardest items to make look like new for more than a month or so once the sun has had its way with them. Once they get sun scorched and dry, nothing really brings them back much beyond preservation stage.
As our main concern seems to be Santorin and Super Maramu, I can tell everyone for certain that there is but one “size/profile” for the rub rail insert be it brown or white, Santorin or Super Maramu of all production years. The width between the inner edge of the rub rail to the outside of the bulwark is the same for both models. Just to be absolutely 100% sure of this, I asked Olivier to verify this and he was pleased to do so.
On the last of the SM 2000 series, 2004 until the end and the Amel 54, Amel installed a hard PVC insert that had as much ultra-violet protectant stirred in as chemistry would allow, so I was told. This true improvement also fits but is a real challenge to install without breaking it and is also a pain to ship as it is more rigid so bigger circles are required. It is quite a bit lighter , though. I did a side on two different boats that had some hurricane damage and it was such a PITA that I forced myself to forget how to do it least I would be required to do it again. Not for faint hearts, stick with the synthetic rubber.
I hope Bill Kinney can come up with the replacement being discussed. I’ll probably join in to keep some in reserve, as long as it has more anti ultra-violet agent than what it replaces.
All The Best, Joel
JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C. THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE Office 954-462-5869 Cell 954-812-2485
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Karen Smith via Groups.Io
Eventually, UV exposure takes its toll. The surface finish can be restored in any number of ways, but eventually, the thin edges of the rubber begin to crumble. At that point it is only a matter of time before things go further and the rubber fails.
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Re: Bottom paint removal problem
I used to strip my old cruiser-racer every 2-3 years and did my Amel when I got it in 2000. No worries whatsoever about stripper on gel coat. I used the most aggressive one I could find, and that was before all the "green" regulations - beautifully caustic goop! Took 2 applications and putty knife removal, then I'd finish up with bronze wool dipped in stripper to get the last bits of paint off. Worked like a dream. Makes a great above-the-waterline gel coat cleaner, too.
Craig
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Re: Iridium go external antenna location
Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...>
You want to keep your cable as short as possible. The longer the cable, the more cable loss you will have. I put the IridiumGo inside the cabinet above the sink. It is just below the steering box and thus there is only a 6' cable to the antenna.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHpFEHGCyqg At 6:54 minutes you will see the installation of the IridiumGO.. The best place to get the service is through PredictWind. I have a 15M cable that I didn't use because of the cable loss. Ken
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Re: through hull forard head
Randall Walker
were you able to take the valve off in water or when you hauled out? Randall
On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 9:43 AM Peter Tiner <peter.tiner@...> wrote: Hi
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Re: Strainer air lock and MORE
Il 05/03/2020 23:10, Ryan Meador ha
scritto:
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