Re: More Options for Rub Rail Inserts
Karen,
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I wanted to make sure we were still on the list. Thanks, Mark S/V It’s Good SM #105 Gloucester, VA
On Mar 6, 2020, at 5:40 PM, Karen Smith via Groups.Io <karenharmonie@...> wrote:
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Re: Iridium go external antenna location
Sv Garulfo
Hi Scott, On a side note, we found the app ‘iWatchSat’ very useful to find out sat coverage. It’s very simple and it helps to plan your call/grib fetch. We found waiting for good coverage is the best way to dramatically improve connection quality. Hope that helps, Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Hiva Oa, French Polynesia
On Wed, 4 Mar 2020 at 04:34, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote: Hi all,
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Re: Lubricants, Sealants, etc. & thanks to Bill Kinney
Fred, Thanks for that. As you know I do not have a recommendation for bearing grease. The manufacturer of MD 466 EP is Sogelub. They recommend it as a solution for metal-to-metal surfaces. This synthetic grease is very good, but only readily available in Europe. If I was asked by a European client for a synthetic grease recommendation, MD 466 would be my #1 choice. I am sure that Amel made the correct choice. Thanks, again.
On Sat, Mar 7, 2020 at 2:50 AM scentstone <scentstone@...> wrote:
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Re: Iridium go external antenna location
Thanks Dan right now I keep mine in the Aft Lazarette there’s a place to mount it but it’s a pain keeping it on the Rail seems like a better option
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Thanks Courtney Trippin 54#101 Cheers
On Mar 6, 2020, at 7:42 PM, Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
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Re: Problem dismantling the main furler worm gear box
A few years ago I purchased bonfoglioli gear boxes from an outfit in Baltimore. They were $125 each. Aras Sharki #163
On Sat, Mar 7, 2020, 9:06 AM Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote: Have problem to dismantle the shaft (see picture) from the main furling gear box. I need to get off the Aluminum "NOB" that connect to the main furler.
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Re: Iridium go external antenna location
Scott SV Tengah
Wolfgang,
What do you mean same place ? On star board side of arch or on star board rail? -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Problem dismantling the main furler worm gear box
Have problem to dismantle the shaft (see picture) from the main furling gear box. I need to get off the Aluminum "NOB" that connect to the main furler.
The inner shaft with the Aluminium "NOB" is totally stuck. Any suggestion how the get the aluminium "NOB" off the inner shaft? Hopefully I can purchase the inner shaft from Maud, and maybe she has the Aluminium "NOB" as well. The Leroy Sumer gear box is available from Amel. Anyone who have manage to get the worm gear off the outer shaft? On the out haul gear box the worm gear is attached with a retaining ring and easy to take off, but no retaining ring to be found in the furling gear box? Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259
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Re: Lubricants, Sealants, etc. & thanks to Bill Kinney
scentstone
Hi Bill and thank you again for the effort to ease the sailor's life. I was trained in La Rochelle by Daniel Jourdain who was the mechanics at Amel's pontoon for the last 20 years. Amel use the reference Sogelub MD 466 EP in many locations as I did for years with very satisfying results… [Note] Perhaps not very easy to get abroad but for those who like to know. I will be happy to help Best Fred S/V ScentStone SM2K #375
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Re: Iridium go external antenna location
Hi Courtney, we keep it there all of the time. Just finished beating from Panama to the Dominican Republic via Cartagena. I feel more secure with it there than in the rear lazarette. It feels secure. Regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387
On Wed, Mar 4, 2020, 4:35 PM Courtney Gorman via Groups.Io <Itsfun1=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: Iridium go external antenna location
I’ve used an Iridium Go on a ocean trip once and did not use an external antenna at all. If you put the put the device under the sprayhood it works fine. You can get a waterproof USB cable for the power supply and that is all you need apart from an USB charger outlet at the helm. When I talked to the supplier about this he said the value of the external antenna is very limited.
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Re: More Options for Rub Rail Inserts
Karen Smith
We have enough people interested in signing on, it's looking like a go. We'll be in touch with the manufacturer Monday morning to deliver a sample off Harmonie so they can design the die, get details, and finalize price and schedule.
So if you are on the fence about it, get in touch and let us know you're interested.
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Re: Front furler Bamar MEJ upgrade to EJF? Is it worth it?
Scott SV Tengah
No, they kept the original Amel spec.
On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 5:27 PM Jamie Wendell <mysticshadow54@...> wrote: Hey Scott, I forgot to ask you. Did Phillip upgrade the size of your main mast shrouds when you replaced your standing rig - as noted by Bill Rouse?
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Re: Front furler Bamar MEJ upgrade to EJF? Is it worth it?
Jamie Wendell
Hey Scott, I forgot to ask you. Did Phillip upgrade the size of your main mast shrouds when you replaced your standing rig - as noted by Bill Rouse?
I just missed that and may have him upgrade the size when I go back next year. Safe travels. Jamie Phantom A54 #44
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Re: Front furler Bamar MEJ upgrade to EJF? Is it worth it?
Scott SV Tengah
Oh and while you're in ther area, I'd suggest having Caraibe Marine do it in Le Marin, Martinique. Pick up some spare parts from the Amel office while you're there.
-- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Front furler Bamar MEJ upgrade to EJF? Is it worth it?
Scott SV Tengah
I have had the Bamar EJF for about a year and a half. They are definitely better than the old MEJ, but I did have to replace the Genoa EJF AGAIN after 6 months due to water ingress. Luckily Bamar covered it. My MEJ sounded like a dying cat and then eventually just gave up. Apparently the top seals dry out and water fills them. The EJF seem to work pretty well, though I wish I didn't have to replace the staysail furler since it really doesn't have super heavy loads. A manual system there would have made me perfectly happy.
Secondly, I was getting corrosion between the black aluminum casing and the stainless. As Olivier mentioned, prior to 2009, the bonding system and hence "mass light" was not connected to the rigging. I had an electrical leak related to the bow nav lights and a bit from the starboard windlass and it was causing all sorts of corrosion and wasn't detectable using the mass light. I've since fixed the electrical leak and through my replacement Shakespeare VHF antenna, the rigging is connected to the bonding system (as it is 2009+ Amels). -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Lubricants, Sealants, etc. & thanks to Bill Kinney
I have used Molykote on the water-maker to lube the seals for assembly. Good stuff!
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Galapagos www.creampuff.us
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
[mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 3:54 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Lubricants, Sealants, etc. & thanks to Bill Kinney
All,
Most of you know Bill Kinney. He is aboard SM #160 Harmonie with Karen Smith. He hasn't posted to the group lately, and I mentioned that to him recently. About a week ago, I ran into Bill and Karen when I went to dinner in Ft Lauderdale with mutual friends, Jeremie and Diane Mailloux, A54 #45 LEMA. I had a great time with this diverse group.
Anyway, to my point. Bill found something better than Trident Silicone grease, which I recommend for O rings, etc. Bill's find is made by DOW and is MOLYKOTE. It is very similar to Trident, except that it is much thicker and stickier. After recommending Trident for well over 10 years, I have switched my recommendation to MOLYKOTE. BTW, it is especially good for mounting an O Ring vertically like when working on a Jabsco "Not So Quiet" Macerator Pump. If you have owned an Amel with electric flush for longer than 6 months, you know what I mean!😀
I have included a page from my book on recommended Lubricants, Sealants, etc. Note the little Amazon "a." All, but one of these is available on Amazon.
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Re: More Options for Rub Rail Inserts
Patrick McAneny
Karen, On my property I have two ponds, a stream and two waterfalls all lined with EPDM , the liner is supposed to last at least twenty years. However I built another pond for a house I built 32 yrs.ago for a client, and that liner is still intact ,and some of it has been exposed to partial sun all these yrs. So its tuff stuff. I will leave mine long as Gary Silver suggested , and cut it a bit short if its hot ,or leave long if cooler . Count me in if you put it together,
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message-----
From: Karen Smith via Groups.Io <karenharmonie@...> To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Sent: Fri, Mar 6, 2020 3:57 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] More Options for Rub Rail Inserts We do not yet know for sure what the old inserts are made of, but EDPM rubber is used uncovered as a membrane for flat roofs, and typically has a warranted life span of 30 years.
Rubber like this is actually only about 25% EDPM plastic. They are roughly 50% "filler/pigment". For black rubber, this might be carbon black, for white it would be titanium dioxide, for red it would be a blend of iron oxide. The rest of the formulation is various "oils" that serve to make it "rubbery" instead of brittle. If the wrong oils are used, they can evaporate over time, and the whole part shrinks. We will confirm the long term dimensional stability of the extrusion with the manufacturer. I'm thinking that over 50 feet, shrinkage of 1" is tolerable, leaving just a bit more of a gap at the back of the rail than it started with. That's about 0.2%, and gives me a number to look for.
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Re: More Options for Rub Rail Inserts
Karen Smith
We do not yet know for sure what the old inserts are made of, but EDPM rubber is used uncovered as a membrane for flat roofs, and typically has a warranted life span of 30 years.
Rubber like this is actually only about 25% EDPM plastic. They are roughly 50% "filler/pigment". For black rubber, this might be carbon black, for white it would be titanium dioxide, for red it would be a blend of iron oxide. The rest of the formulation is various "oils" that serve to make it "rubbery" instead of brittle. If the wrong oils are used, they can evaporate over time, and the whole part shrinks. We will confirm the long term dimensional stability of the extrusion with the manufacturer. I'm thinking that over 50 feet, shrinkage of 1" is tolerable, leaving just a bit more of a gap at the back of the rail than it started with. That's about 0.2%, and gives me a number to look for.
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Lubricants, Sealants, etc. & thanks to Bill Kinney
All, Most of you know Bill Kinney. He is aboard SM #160 Harmonie with Karen Smith. He hasn't posted to the group lately, and I mentioned that to him recently. About a week ago, I ran into Bill and Karen when I went to dinner in Ft Lauderdale with mutual friends, Jeremie and Diane Mailloux, A54 #45 LEMA. I had a great time with this diverse group. Anyway, to my point. Bill found something better than Trident Silicone grease, which I recommend for O rings, etc. Bill's find is made by DOW and is MOLYKOTE. It is very similar to Trident, except that it is much thicker and stickier. After recommending Trident for well over 10 years, I have switched my recommendation to MOLYKOTE. BTW, it is especially good for mounting an O Ring vertically like when working on a Jabsco "Not So Quiet" Macerator Pump. If you have owned an Amel with electric flush for longer than 6 months, you know what I mean!😀 I have included a page from my book on recommended Lubricants, Sealants, etc. Note the little Amazon "a." All, but one of these is available on Amazon.
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Re: More Options for Rub Rail Inserts
Hi Joel, thanks for that info. We are looking at a paint made specifically for EPDM. Do you know if anyone has tried that? Is the OEM insert made of EPDM? Thanks again Kent and Iris SM 243 Kristy
On Mar 6, 2020 1:52 PM, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:
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