|
Re: Locking the bowthruster on a A54on passages
#solution
Jamie Wendell
Excellent idea. Now I have yet another boat project for my Amel.
Jamie Phantom A54 #44 |
|
|
|
Re: Cable feed into Main and Mizzen masts on a A54
Sv Garulfo
Hi Arno, Agreed, on Garulfo there is a VHF-like antenna for the AIS transceiver on top of the mizzen, but there is also a smaller fatter antenna for (IIRC) the fax receiver. I’ll take pictures next time I go up there Cheers Thomas GARULFO A54-122 On Wed, 29 Apr 2020 at 17:28, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote: Thomas, |
|
|
|
Re: OPACMARE gangway not rotating
You are confronted with the poor design of an otherwise very nice piece of hardware on your boat. To set off frightening you first. The repair of my passarelle was about 14k $.
Still there? The good news for you is that your rotary actuator is not yet completely seized up as mine was. That means you can probably still take it apart. But to get to that thing is quite the job. First you need to get all the hydraulic hoses off and sensors off. Before you do that make sure the passarelle sticks out 90 degrees. Now you can remove the top part. It's heavy, really heavy. About 100+ kg or so. once that part is off you need to get off the base part. Again not so easy as removing the bolts still leave the chaulking to stick. Once the base is loose you can bring this to a hydraulics shop and the can start rebuilding it. A new rotary actuator is around 6k$ including transport. My passarelle was fully overhauled, all seals were replaced all cylinders overhauled, a brand new actuator and the whole thing was repainted. I made a small change to prevent the ingress of (sea)water into the rotary actuator by putting a cover over it and putting a think layer of lanolin grease under the cover. The problem is that the way the actuator has been designed is that part that rotates sits inside a large cylinder. There is a narrow seam between the moving parts on the top side of the actuator. Opacmare made a poor design choice here to allow seawater to reach this seam and slowy but surely get into the mechanism. Once that happens it starts rusting (it is all mild steel) and at some point it is stuck to the point you will never be able to disassemble it. If you need more details let me know. Regards, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54-121 |
|
|
|
FW: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3 oil pressure
amelforme
Hello Paul. I had Amel 54 # 14. I did all the maintenance myself and had the workshop manual for the Volvo. I actually read the whole thing to full familiarize myself with this engine as I also previously had a SM 53 with a Volvo diesel. It was plenty of trouble for a brand new engine. Volvo ended up giving me a new replacement. I had been pushing hard for years with Mr. Carteau , Amel’s Chairman and Technical Director, to try Yanmar engines. We soon did for North America and for Europe a little bit later. Amel went back to Volvo for the Amel 54 as it was a FADAC/computer controlled diesel that met the new and stricter emissions regulations as Yanmar did not quite have an available emissions compliant diesel in the required horsepower range. My Volvo D3 had several sensor failures with the computer control sensors. The first one was with the first potential client on the first sea trial and I was ignominiously towed back to the dock . Not a good start… Never had any mechanical problems with it and it didn’t use any oil between 100 hour changes either. The sensor problems did persist though and then vanished never to return. I hate head scratchers like that.
Amel switched to Pathfinder/marinized Volkswagen diesels, not to get away from Volvo as many assume but rather because Volvo decided suddenly and with scant warning to quit building the D3 with the isolated negative/full earth return electrical system that Amel required. I believe one 54 got a Steyr diesel which, in my opinion, is one of the best designed and built marine diesel engine with dealers all over the world.
Comments below. See if you can get the details I outlined from the gentleman who took the mechanical gauge oil pressure test.
All the Best, Joel
JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C. THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE Office 954-462-5869 Cell 954-812-2485
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 7:03 AM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure
Many thanks to all who have replied. I’ll try to reply to the feedback.
This problem occurred immediately after an oil and oil filter change. I got the engineer involved after a few days when it started giving the warning whilst still at 1100rpm. The first thing the engineer did was to change the filter again for a genuine Volvo filter. That would tend to eliminate the check valve in the oil filter. Was the fresh oil added 4 hours ago the correct viscosity? Was it quality/branded oil like Shell Rotella or similar?
Re. oil analysis: Joel, as the oil is fresh – probably no more than 4 hours – I doubt an analysis will yield anything significant – or am I wrong about that? More hours is better until you exceed recommended intervals. However, if the pressure is failing because of the clearances increasing, you will be shedding metal and this will be discernible at 4 hours. If you change the oil save some for a test if it later becomes obvious that it would be the correct thing to do. Take the sample from the last third of the oil extracted for best results. The fact that the oil pressure is gradually getting worse would make me opt for a spectrographic analysis before any parts come off the engine. It is not expensive.
Re. oil consumption: The engine does not burn or lose any oil. That is encouraging.
Re. hours: engine hours are 1975.Way too young for self-destruction internally unless the engine was severely overheated or overloaded. If it is internal failure it would probably be due to manufacturers defect.
Re. historic maintenance – I have no details but I do know the boat had been extremely well taken care of so I doubt there is an issue here.
Re. pressure: I about the pressure, I didn’t personally take notes, but the engineer did measure the pressure using the external gauge at different rpm, up to about 2500 if I remember correctly. I am away from the boat and have asked them to send me this info. So, the mechanical gauge, for certain, confirmed that oil pressure at idle and up to around 1100RPM was below safe limits? If you can get the fellow who took the measurements to comment about the following as he ran the RPM higher than 1100RPM it would be quite helpful… Was the pressure increase linear or was it ‘jerky’ with plateaus and jumps? As RPMs were increased, did the oil pressure always seem lower than what would be normal at that RPM? If the oil pressure caught up with what would be considered normal, at what RPM did that happen?
Re. Pressure relief valve – I know nothing about that and it was not mentioned. Re. pump safety valve – again I have no knowledge about this and it was not mentioned. Oil pumps and associated regulating equipment are usually carefully engineered and built to exacting standards as if these units fail everything else immediately follows suit. They seldom fail and when they do it is usually an immediate and catastrophic failure and not an incremental one. There are always exceptions…
Unfortunately I am away from the boat now until October. It is being looked after and I have contacted a friend who is an engineer in Grenada to investigate further. My concern is that if there is any bad weather the boat is not mobile – not a good situation.
Latest from the engineer: I would recommend to proceed with the following after an oil analysis is completed as if the oil analysis tells of a failing engine the rest of this is unnecessary. It is usually not cost effective to rebuild modern FADEC diesel engines, particularly one that was in self consumption mode.
We can simply change the oil and filter, using Volvo filter and 15W40 HD oil as recommended, install a new pressure sensor and see what happens. If that isn't effective, there is a valve in the oil pump which could be stuck but because of your poor access we don't think the pump can come out without lifting the engine. The pump is on the crankshaft, behind the timing belt pulley(best replace that belt too) and this needs to be extracted; Stef says he doubts there would be room to get a puller between the engine and the bulkhead. The suction tube has a strainer and this could be blocked. The engine sump must be removed for this so engine definitely needs to come out. The sensor is not expensive, Euro 26.33 + freight. The valve is E 61.33, belt E 207.78, strainer E 61.33, seal E 25.11, gaskets and o-rings not much. Pump is not cheap at E 368.89. You suggested a new pump; I have not seen one give trouble, but I haven't seen this problem on a D3 before. So, how would you like us to proceed? The prices I gave are list, exclusive of shipping and brokerage. We can order just the sensor and replace this, the oil and filter and run her up in a couple of hours. If the problem is still there then I think she's gonna need to come out. The freight for just one sensor won't be very efficient and unfortunately I don't have much else to order right now- I try to get a list of parts together and spread the freight costs around, but if you are in a hurry, which with a disabled engine and the boat in the water I guess there must be some sense of urgency...
Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of amelforme
Paul, a bit more information is needed to give you some help. How many hours are on the engine now? How many hours are on the oil in the crankcase now? Did you get maintenance logs at the purchase that showed good habits regarding regular oil changes? What were the months and hour intervals if so? Did this problem started immediately after a new oil filter and fresh engine oil were installed? Or was it several hours or days later? Testing with a mechanical/non-electric oil pressure gauge confirmed that what you were reading from the helm mounted instrumentation was correct ? Did oil pressure increase with higher engine RPM in a linear pattern, not increase at all or very little, or immediately increase by a great deal? This is very important to know. Does the engine burn more than a liter of oil in 50 hours of running time? Did the Volvo dealer immediately suggest engine removal with out any other testing? Did anyone suggest that you have a spectrographic engine oil analysis performed ? Do a web search on this. Not expensive and extremely telling about the engines internal mechanical condition. Slowly decreasing oil pressure is most often an indication of internal engine wear that increases/opens the tolerances/gaps between components like bearings and bearing journals. I will await and respond to your answers but I would strongly suggest changing the engine oil filter and if nothing changes then obtaining a spectrographic engine oil analysis before the engine is removed. The oil analysis will, for sure, tell you plenty about the engines’ relative health. Much the same as getting your blood work done before a visit to your medical practitioner.
All The best, Joel
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Dowd an d Sharon Brown
Hi all,
I have a Volvo D3-110i-C with low oil pressure. I’m told by the local Volvo dealer that the engine will have to be taken out in order to replace the oil pump. I’m wondering what other factor may cause low oil pressure. Any opinion on this would be most welcome.
A bit of history on the problem. I changed the oil and oil filter after 188 engine hours which was 3 years. I then started getting low pressure warning after reducing from 1100rpm to idle. I checked the oil level and topped up to the top of the mark. After a couple of days I started getting low pressure warning whilst running at 1100rpm (to heat water). This was confirmed when the engineer attached a pressure gauge.
Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
|
|
|
|
Re: Locking the bowthruster on a A54on passages
#solution
Mark & Debbie Mueller
Great idea, wish our boat had the recess in the bow thruster yours does. Will have to look for a suitable portlight that can be fitted.
-- Mark Mueller Brass Ring A54 |
|
|
|
Re: Top loading galley fridge/freezer used as a fridge: No?
Mark & Debbie Mueller
Freezer Seals for Amel 54 – I purchased from Zoro.com EPDM Seal, D-Section, 0.75 In W, 25 Ft by TRIM LOK INC; Zoro #: G3897214| Mfr #: X1458BT. The 25' roll did both the chest and the bench. They seem to run less now but still living with the poor insulation. Mark Mueller Brass Ring A54 |
|
|
|
OPACMARE gangway not rotating
luvkante
Dear friends,
A service man was not very helpful. He suggested to change the oil. I do not believe, that that is the problem, because the other linear axles seem to be ok. Any ideas?
AMEL 54 #149 CHIARA |
|
|
|
Re: Top loading galley fridge/freezer used as a fridge: No?
Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
Hello, 1. Magnetic stainless 20mmx1mmx required length. Custom cut at ebay. Germany. Backside sanded and glued with contact cement. 2. Magnetic freezer gasket. Professional fridge repair online custom made to our size. Attention the stainless basin might not be right under the lid. Check that. At the foto I show how we fixed it by screws. 3. The hole for the cooling tubes was filled with sprey foam, and because that is a weak point, I placed 10cm extruder foam under the freezer and fixed all with spray foam. 4. Yes, it was a lot exhausting work. We are happy with it now. We are in tropic Martinique, we drive the freezer with -19Celsius and the compressor has about 70% work time. Actually I cant say exactly because the original fridge is the weak point now, its insulation is not that efficient as the freezer. I need to improve my software to log the operating time in a bettet way. Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54#39 Martinique On Thu, Apr 30, 2020, 04:41 Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote: Oliver, 
|
|
|
|
Re: Volvo oil pressure
Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Many thanks to all who have replied. I’ll try to reply to the feedback.
This problem occurred immediately after an oil and oil filter change. I got the engineer involved after a few days when it started giving the warning whilst still at 1100rpm. The first thing the engineer did was to change the filter again for a genuine Volvo filter.
Re. oil analysis: Joel, as the oil is fresh – probably no more than 4 hours – I doubt an analysis will yield anything significant – or am I wrong about that?
Re. oil consumption: The engine does not burn or lose any oil.
Re. hours: engine hours are 1975.
Re. historic maintenance – I have no details but I do know the boat had been extremely well taken care of so I doubt there is an issue here.
Re. pressure: I about the pressure, I didn’t personally take notes, but the engineer did measure the pressure using the external gauge at different rpm, up to about 2500 if I remember correctly. I am away from the boat and have asked them to send me this info.
Re. Pressure relief valve – I know nothing about that and it was not mentioned.
Re. pump safety valve – again I have no knowledge about this and it was not mentioned.
Unfortunately I am away from the boat now until October. It is being looked after and I have contacted a friend who is an engineer in Grenada to investigate further. My concern is that if there is any bad weather the boat is not mobile – not a good situation.
Latest from the engineer:
We can simply change the oil and filter, using Volvo filter and 15W40 HD oil as recommended, install a new pressure sensor and see what happens. If that isn't effective, there is a valve in the oil pump which could be stuck but because of your poor access we don't think the pump can come out without lifting the engine. The pump is on the crankshaft, behind the timing belt pulley(best replace that belt too) and this needs to be extracted; Stef says he doubts there would be room to get a puller between the engine and the bulkhead. The suction tube has a strainer and this could be blocked. The engine sump must be removed for this so engine definitely needs to come out. The sensor is not expensive, Euro 26.33 + freight. The valve is E 61.33, belt E 207.78, strainer E 61.33, seal E 25.11, gaskets and o-rings not much. Pump is not cheap at E 368.89. You suggested a new pump; I have not seen one give trouble, but I haven't seen this problem on a D3 before. So, how would you like us to proceed? The prices I gave are list, exclusive of shipping and brokerage. We can order just the sensor and replace this, the oil and filter and run her up in a couple of hours. If the problem is still there then I think she's gonna need to come out. The freight for just one sensor won't be very efficient and unfortunately I don't have much else to order right now- I try to get a list of parts together and spread the freight costs around, but if you are in a hurry, which with a disabled engine and the boat in the water I guess there must be some sense of urgency...
Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of amelforme
Sent: 29 April 2020 22:05 To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Cc: jfpottercys@... Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure
Paul, a bit more information is needed to give you some help. How many hours are on the engine now? How many hours are on the oil in the crankcase now? Did you get maintenance logs at the purchase that showed good habits regarding regular oil changes? What were the months and hour intervals if so? Did this problem started immediately after a new oil filter and fresh engine oil were installed? Or was it several hours or days later? Testing with a mechanical/non-electric oil pressure gauge confirmed that what you were reading from the helm mounted instrumentation was correct ? Did oil pressure increase with higher engine RPM in a linear pattern, not increase at all or very little, or immediately increase by a great deal? This is very important to know. Does the engine burn more than a liter of oil in 50 hours of running time? Did the Volvo dealer immediately suggest engine removal with out any other testing? Did anyone suggest that you have a spectrographic engine oil analysis performed ? Do a web search on this. Not expensive and extremely telling about the engines internal mechanical condition. Slowly decreasing oil pressure is most often an indication of internal engine wear that increases/opens the tolerances/gaps between components like bearings and bearing journals. I will await and respond to your answers but I would strongly suggest changing the engine oil filter and if nothing changes then obtaining a spectrographic engine oil analysis before the engine is removed. The oil analysis will, for sure, tell you plenty about the engines’ relative health. Much the same as getting your blood work done before a visit to your medical practitioner.
All The best, Joel
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Dowd an d Sharon Brown
Hi all,
I have a Volvo D3-110i-C with low oil pressure. I’m told by the local Volvo dealer that the engine will have to be taken out in order to replace the oil pump. I’m wondering what other factor may cause low oil pressure. Any opinion on this would be most welcome.
A bit of history on the problem. I changed the oil and oil filter after 188 engine hours which was 3 years. I then started getting low pressure warning after reducing from 1100rpm to idle. I checked the oil level and topped up to the top of the mark. After a couple of days I started getting low pressure warning whilst running at 1100rpm (to heat water). This was confirmed when the engineer attached a pressure gauge.
Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
-- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 |
|
|
|
Re: Top loading galley fridge/freezer used as a fridge: No?
Scott SV Tengah
Oliver,
Just watched your video - that insulation replacement seems like a big job! But the results seem to make it worth it? One question for you about the big hole on the bottom for the compressor lines: did you fill that big hole in with something? Otherwise it would seem that all of the cold air would flow out of it. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com |
|
|
|
Re: Top loading galley fridge/freezer used as a fridge: No?
Scott SV Tengah
Jamie,
We'll just add Hawaii, Continental US and Mexico to the world tour :) If the world is normal again by then, we will go from Mexico to Marquesas March 2021. Thanks - our strut isn't too strong but you give me hope in that perhaps our seal is just bad and the water accumulation problem will be resolved with a better seal. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com |
|
|
|
Re: Top loading galley fridge/freezer used as a fridge: No?
Scott SV Tengah
Oliver,
Thanks, I will watch the video. Where did you buy the magnetic stainless and also the custom sized screw fixed freezer seal? If you're on the boat, could you attach some photos? Thanks! -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com |
|
|
|
Re: Turbo -encabulator
Peter Buckley <carhartt@...>
Yes it looks great. Just a little difficult to get there…..Soon very soon…Thanks
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
|
|
|
|
Re: Turbo -encabulator
There is a 2007 AMEL 54 for sale in NEW ZEALAND T Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone. -------- Original message -------- From: "Peter Buckley via groups.io" <carhartt@...> Date: 4/29/20 20:33 (GMT-07:00) To: "main@amelyachtowners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Turbo -encabulator Shore power plugs into my yacht and I power the town….. Poco Loco Noelex 30 ……Searching for an Amel 54….:)
|
|
|
|
Re: Turbo -encabulator
Peter Buckley <carhartt@...>
I always ran an Interforometer that I received from my father. It took care of all on board power and propulsion issues on my Amel Mango. I removed it and now have it on a Noelex 30 in the Gippsland Lakes
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Shore power plugs into my yacht and I power the town….. Poco Loco Noelex 30 ……Searching for an Amel 54….:)
|
|
|
|
Turbo -encabulator
eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
I have one for sale also new in crate however it starts on 50 cycles and 220-230 volt. From there it is powered by a self contained stellerator. The capacitor bank for that is quite heavy, Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2020 11:09 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure
Hi Arno, |
|
|
|
Antenna for dsc reception on an Icom 802
eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
What antenna have people used for the DSC? If it was not mounted on the triatic or the backstay where was it mounted,? Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alan Leslie
This is from technical support at ICOM in the USA :
|
|
|
|
Re: Volvo oil pressure
Hi Arno,
Sorry, but you may not have clicked on the recent spoof posts on the turbo-encabulator. Differential girdle springs for grammeters are more like $200,000 - I've got one (slightly used) for sale for $150,000. Cheers |
|
|
|
Re: Cable feed into Main and Mizzen masts on a A54
This is from technical support at ICOM in the USA :
In order for DSC to work with the M-802, you must have the DSC-receive antenna connected. This is the only way that the radio will be able to receive DSC signals since it is a class D DSC radio. You can use a Metz weatherfax antenna or any SSB whip antenna to connect to the receive port. Without the antenna, you will still be able to transmit a distress call, however, the radio will never hear an acknowledgement nor would you be able to hear someone else in distress and come to their aid. Hope this will help.
|
|
|
|
Re: Cable feed into Main and Mizzen masts on a A54
Thomas,
I'm pretty sure the antenna on top of the mizzen is for the AIS transceiver. A dedicated AIS antenna should not live next to a VHF antenna and ideally should be in a different horizontal plane. Regards, Armo SV Luna, A54-121 |
|
|