Date   

Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

Billy Newport
 

So,
I don't have an Amel yet but am buying a 55 right now. My current boat, a 2015 Jeanneau 439 has been fully converted to lithium/solar professionally. See photos here: (https://photos.app.goo.gl/YZv6xncC821Rquqn8).

My boat has all 110v AC plugs (including air conditioners) running on dual Victron Multiplus 3kw/120 inverter chargers. I have dual 560aH lithionics batteries with external BMS and a common load and charge bus. The victrons are connected to both the load and charge buses using dual runs (5ft) of 00 cable.

I have 3 air cons, dual dometic 9kw and a single 16kw. The 16kw has a smartstart. All 3 air cons are connected to a single Victron, the other house sockets (microwave, water heater and sockets) are on the other Victron.

The boat has 1200w of Solar and I get about 50A at peak in NYC and about 95a peak for more hours well south of here. I also have a 360a API alternator with a balmar mc614 temp compensated. The alternator is detuned to generate 230a at 63c temperature because of heat generation, it's like having a 5kw heater in the engine room...

I can run a single 9kw AC unit on invertors and charge the boat the following day when south of here. I can run all 3 units on inverters also.

I do see low voltage alarms from the inverter when the AC's kick on the compressors. Normal pull for a 16kw is about 10a @ 115v (remember I rarely get 120V into the boat, the dock power wobbles down as low as 112v and that also means it will pull more amps). Normal pull for the 9kws is about 7a @ 115V.

The Victron can supply 4.4kw for a minute and this allows a single Victron to run all 3 AC units at steady state BUT if the planets align and 2 units kick on simultaneously, even over 5 ft of dual 00 cables, I'll see 500a pulses from the lithiums and the victrons complain about low voltage briefly and then recover.

I have run all 3 units, a microwave, the water heater which pulls about 700a (max pull for a single battery is 400a so 800 for both) and it does trip there (the inverters trip on low voltage).

Looking at my desired Amel 55. The inverters are too far from the batteries. The batteries are under the galley sole, the inverters are on the port engine room wall. That's a much bigger run than on my current boat. 24v would possibly double the distance to maybe 10ft but you're still not better than my current system. I'd relocate the inverters in to the main cabin somehow if doing it again.

Heat wise, I've found the victrons only get really hot charging, not inverting. I run mine one over the other and needed to limit the top one to 60a to keep it from getting hot so I just push 120 + 60 a when on shower power which is plenty for me. On a generator, you might want 120+120 but then you need to cool it and I didn't have the space on my boat.

If I was running the boat in euro land then I would have added a 220v Victron charger. A smaller one would have worked fine (60a or similar) on shore power.

Billy (buying iolani hopefully)
So, it can be done.


Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Craig Briggs
 

Thanks, Eric ... and good point Ken - guess it is a "Hot Water Heater" after all!
We don't have any solar, so the Hot Water Heater heats either from the engine coolant (which may also be a misnomer - "hotant?") or from the genset, which adds a nice electrical load to that.


Re: Zink Anode for SPURS Line Cutter

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Rudi and Scott,

the reason for the zinc on the SPURS rope-cutter is that it is attached to the fixed blade which is in fact isolated from the prop shaft by a plastic U-shaped part (you will have a close look next time)  Therefore, this fixed blade is not correctly bonded to the rudder zincs, and it is important to keep its zinc in good condition.
The purpose of the plastic part is to reduce friction betwen the shaft and the fixed blade.

Have a nice day.

Olivier.


Re: Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Mohammad  

 

Thanks a lot for the information. That helps; - nevertheless it’s confusing that the sensor has 2 wires. Because you said they send a “single wire” non-isolated ground sensor. If I understood correctly, the single wire non-isolated ground sensor is wrong in these case?

 

So you can only get the right sensor in France by referencing the AMEL setup, right? If I find a sensor who has 2 wire terminals is supposing correct, but not 100%

 

Happy sailing

 

Ruedi and Sabina

WASABI A54#55


Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Sonntag, 17. Mai 2020 um 03:08
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

Hi Ruedi;

 

In order for the sensor to be isolated ground, it needs to have 2 wires, since it cannot use the engine block as ground. If you use the serial number of the engine to order the part, a single wire non-isolated ground sensor will be sent. My understanding, in talking to Amel, is that Volvo ships the standard engine to Volvo France. Volvo France then does the required mods to Amel Specs, one of them being isolated ground. To my surprise, Volvo does not update this information in their data base to match the serial number.

 

Here's the contact information, provided by Amel, and part number that was correct for our engine:

GWEN MARINE Mr Gwenael Rambaud :   gwen@...

Part Number: 863169 Description: CAPTEUR PRESSION

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rudolf Waldispuehl via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2020 10:20 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

 

Hi Mohammad  


I try to understand the issue with the single wire non-isolated pressure switch. I'm interested to buy one of these pressure switches for spare but don’t exactly know how to order. I can find in Internet on official VolvoPenta.com, Marinepartseurope.com or other sites the pressure switch, but I’m not sure I will receive a single wire non-isolated pressure switch.

Can you ore someone from the group please enlighten me on this topic? 


Thanks and best regards

Ruedi 

WASABI A54#55


Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Eric Meury
 

Craig before you do this read my post about how i make hot water from solar.  Not sure how much solar you have on your boat but this is working fine for me for the last 3 weeks.


Near constant hot water without a generator - Here is how i did it.

Eric Meury
 

We have an santorin with no generator but have 1000 Watts of solar.  400 of those watts are shaded -  200 is behind the main mast flexible panels and 200 is on the new hard top bimini (room for more)  The bulk of the power comes from 600 Watts on the arch. 

Here is what we did.  

1.  Added the Victron 712 Battery Monitor that is bluetooth and replaced the Amel Shunt 

2.  Changed out the AC heating element for a 600 Watt DC element (300 Watt can be used as well)

3.  Added a Victron Battery Protect -  this serves as the relay and what powers the heating element.  - ie the heating element positive cable is connected to the battery protect .
 (BPR065022000 Victron Energy BPR065022000 Smart BatteryProtect with Bluetooth 12/24V - 65A) -  $59 bucks from pkys

4.  Disconnected the thermostat wire from the heating element and attached it directly to the relay.

Here is how it works -  The BMV has a relay setting.  This is set to Default mode but i changed the settings to Invert.  The Low SOC is set to 90 and 96.  What this means is that the relay will be powered when the SOC is anything above 90%.  When it gets to 90% it will turn off and will not turn back on again until the SOC is 96% (these can be changed)  -  This send a signal to the battery protect to "turn on" thus sending power to the heating element.  The battery protect has a shutdown setting of 12.4 volts  (i can change that to really anything but this was set to be an absolule failsafe to never let the batteries go below 12.4).  It turns back on when the batteries are 12.75. I have never seen 12.4 from my bank.   The tempature sensor is set to what ever the factory setting is...i  imagine it is 105 degrees (torried marine water heater).  

So everyday and a couple of times a day depending on how much water is used, my heater will turn on automatically in the mid morning as by that time i have recovered from the nightly discharge and am now above 96%/.  The element will draw a full 600 Watts until such time that either thhe SOC is 90% OR the tempature sensor says - he we are good and have plenty of hot water.  The first time i rant it it took a good 1.5 to 2 hours to get to that tempature. but my batteries never eached 90% as i'm usually producting 400-500 Watts and only have 600 watt drain so max i see going out during the day is 200-250 watts -  (if you use a 300 Watt Element and have plenty of solar you won't go negative but will talke longer)  Since i have this it only needs to run for maybe 15 to 20 mins and occastionally longer to keep the water at the tempature set by the tempature sensor.  

We now take a hot shower everyday and my 2 year old plays in a warm baby pool almost everyday.  -  All of this is powered with solar. (and soon to be wind)   

If i'm on the hard (which i am right now) it still works just the same and If i plug in heat water just by using the battery charger.  

If you have a desire (or don't have one) to not have to run your genset to heat water daily then this is a good way to go provided you have enough solar to make it happen.  We have one fridge and one freezer and a 12 volt home built spectra watermaker.  All of the settings are controlled from my phone via the victron connect app.  I can completley turn off the water heater by accessign the battery protect  - there is a setting to disable.  

I do not have lithium batteries but my bank is large with 4 - L16 Flooded Wet Cell batteries with 840 Amp hours.  


Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

The Hot Water Heater also is a Cold Water Heater, and maybe just a Water Heater.  But after the Hot Water Heater heats up the Cold Water,  the Hot Water Heater keeps the Hot Water Hot.  Thus, the term "Hot Water Heater".  :). You see, most of the time, if left on, the unit will be heating Hot Water (this also implies that there is a Thermostat involved).  Only when first powered up will it heat Cold Water.  

Just another point of view......

Ken Powers
SM2K 262


Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

Gary,

The conversion between DC to AC the loss, depending on your inverter, could be as much as 10% to 30%.   Also, if you only have 100amp battery charger, then you are only supplying 2.5KW into your batteries, but with your proposed 4KW inverter you could pull out 1.5KW above the potential charging input while charging your batteries (That is -62Amps).  I would consider that completely unacceptable!  Running your AC units would not be possible more that a few hours, they would just draw down your batteries and you might not be able to keep up the charge.  And another thing, your Genset should be run at full power, which would be at least 6.5 KW.  But giving your 4KW inverter you would only be able to pull 4KW from your Genset.

This might be a better way to go.

When we bought Aquarius she was set up as follows:
1500 watt inverter
Plugs throughout the boat - Supplied by either - Inverter, Shore Power, or Genset
Washer - Shore Power or Inverter
Dishwasher - Shore Power or Inverter
3 Aircon - Shore Power or Inverter or Genset
Microwave - Inverter, Shore Power, or Genset

Since then we have upgraded to a 2.5KW inverter, but we have made no changes to the distribution panel.... YET.  We are just about ready to get LiFePO4 batteries, and we may make the following changes.  

So, if I were you, this is what I would do:

2.5KW - 4KW Inverter (some electronics have large inrush current when starting, 4KW might help them start up without the use of expensive soft start options)

If Genset is running, or we are on Shore Power, the Inverter is turned off.

Plugs throughout the boat - Supplied by either - Inverter, Shore Power, or Genset.
Washer -  You may want to make this Inverter only because the water pumps like 50HZ only. 
Dishwasher -  You may want to make this Inverter only because the water pumps like 50HZ only. 
3 Aircon - Shore Power or Inverter of Genset
Microwave - Inverter, Shore Power, or Genset

Your Washer or Dishwasher only runs for a short amount of time, and can be easily run off your Inverter only.  But supplying your entire boat off the inverter would not be the best way to go.

If you are somewhere that has bad shore power, don't connect your AMEL!

Ken Powers
Currently on Lock Down in Thailand
But today - We can get a foot massage!
SM2K #262












Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Craig Briggs
 

Spot on, Eric! Perhaps not Oxymoronic but at least redundant. However, the adverts do indeed say "Hot Water Heaters" !
Cheers, Craig


Re: Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Ruedi;

 

In order for the sensor to be isolated ground, it needs to have 2 wires, since it cannot use the engine block as ground. If you use the serial number of the engine to order the part, a single wire non-isolated ground sensor will be sent. My understanding, in talking to Amel, is that Volvo ships the standard engine to Volvo France. Volvo France then does the required mods to Amel Specs, one of them being isolated ground. To my surprise, Volvo does not update this information in their data base to match the serial number.

 

Here's the contact information, provided by Amel, and part number that was correct for our engine:

GWEN MARINE Mr Gwenael Rambaud :   gwen@...

Part Number: 863169 Description: CAPTEUR PRESSION

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rudolf Waldispuehl via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2020 10:20 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

 

Hi Mohammad  


I try to understand the issue with the single wire non-isolated pressure switch. I'm interested to buy one of these pressure switches for spare but don’t exactly know how to order. I can find in Internet on official VolvoPenta.com, Marinepartseurope.com or other sites the pressure switch, but I’m not sure I will receive a single wire non-isolated pressure switch.

Can you ore someone from the group please enlighten me on this topic? 


Thanks and best regards

Ruedi 

WASABI A54#55


Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

eric freedman
 

This is one of my favorite expressions—hot water heater---- why would you heat hot water?

It’s a water heater.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2020 7:25 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

 

Hi Steve,
Ah, the classic split and expanded heating element on the old orange isotemp !  I've got the same unit and I think I'm on my 4th occurrence of that problem. Once I struggled to fish out broken heating elements but some stayed inside and corroded pinholes in the tank. I finally extracted them and then sealed the the pinholes with JB Weld - I'm thinking that was about 12 years ago and it's still going strong! My thermostats also failed and I got replacements for cheap - they are really a commodity item. 

Amazing, but it's still going strong. Mine is 110v (on my SN) and Isotemp has long abandoned the product, but I can still google a heating element (it's 1100w versus the original 750W, but no problemo). Will be installing a new one this week, as a matter of fact. I'm now moving the preventive maintenance interval up to about 3 years - just throw out the old element even though it's working.

I'll admit this really qualifies me as a CARB (Cheap Ass Rag Bagger) but I'll be dammed if I'll pay stupid expensive for the new unit if I can nurse the old one along with minor effort every few years!

Cheers, Craig


Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Steve,
Ah, the classic split and expanded heating element on the old orange isotemp !  I've got the same unit and I think I'm on my 4th occurrence of that problem. Once I struggled to fish out broken heating elements but some stayed inside and corroded pinholes in the tank. I finally extracted them and then sealed the the pinholes with JB Weld - I'm thinking that was about 12 years ago and it's still going strong! My thermostats also failed and I got replacements for cheap - they are really a commodity item. 

Amazing, but it's still going strong. Mine is 110v (on my SN) and Isotemp has long abandoned the product, but I can still google a heating element (it's 1100w versus the original 750W, but no problemo). Will be installing a new one this week, as a matter of fact. I'm now moving the preventive maintenance interval up to about 3 years - just throw out the old element even though it's working.

I'll admit this really qualifies me as a CARB (Cheap Ass Rag Bagger) but I'll be dammed if I'll pay stupid expensive for the new unit if I can nurse the old one along with minor effort every few years!

Cheers, Craig


Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

michael winand
 

Gary, we also have the same system as Scott  describes, but are using firefly oases battery. 
Victron also make a isolation transformer that can have duel voltage  input and will adjust the htz .
We really like the Quattro, on the hard now with a 10 amp 240v , I have adjusted the imput current to max 8 amps and the inverter assistance to allow us to run what we need. 
Regards Michael winand  Nebo sm 251


On Sun, 17 May 2020 at 5:29 am, Scott SV Tengah
<Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Gary,

We faced the same issue you did. I want to make sure we have 220/50 at all times because while I'm very careful and am very unlikely to accidentally run the washing machine/dishwasher/microwave on 60hz shore power, I can't rely on new crew always remembering.

Here's my system, as you may know: Victron Quattro 5000w/24v/120amp charger/inverter, 450AH lithium, Victron Skylla-i 80amp second charger.

Right now, if I find myself with 250v/60hz power, I will plug in, if necessary, to charge the lithiums and then completely unplug. This rarely takes more than 2 hours. My current system is wired so shore power goes to the Quattro first (which replaces the Amel transfer switch, too) and while it charges using the 120amp Quattro charger, it will also passthrough the 60hz power to the boat. That is obviously not ideal. I have confirmed with Victron that there is no way to disable this passthrough when shorepower is detected.

My Skylla-i is wired on the second AC output on the Quattro to avoid running the Skylla charger when the Quattro is acting as an inverter. I did this because 99.99% of the time I'm not in a marina, so I would like to be able to charge using both the Quattro and Skylla (200 amps total) while on genset.

This works great for me as we can run everything on the inverter/batteries. The aft AC will easily run all night on battery. If it's 40c and we need to run multiple AC units, that might be different.

A possible improvement would be to wire a switch somehow so that it's wired as a described above normally but you can flip the switch and have the 60hz shorepower only go to the Skylla when plugged into 60hz shorepower. That way, the skylla feeds 80amps DC to the batteries and the Quattro, not seeing shorepower, would act as an inverter and supply 230/50hz to the boat. 

Note that the Skylla-i will take 60hz, but it must be above 185v. I'm sure you could find a "world capable" 100-250v/50-60hz charger, but we couldn't find one that had high output and was compatible with the BMS, which is absolutely necessary when charging lithiums.

If you don't want to add the second charger and you have a solar MPPT and you won't find yourselves with the 60hz problem often, you could simply get a DC power supply and feed the DC output into your solar MPPT. A 30amp DC power supply can be had for less than $100. Not ideal but works well enough for occasional use. It's also a lot simpler and cheaper.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle #ZOOM

David Kurtz
 

Matt & Cindy, thank you for a great meeting.  I happen to think this is an excellent way to stay in touch with the Amel community (I'm a new member as well).  My goal one of these days is to sail into La Rochelle on my Amel after crossing The Atlantic.  And perhaps as a future meeting, a tour of the Amel ship building facility would be really interesting.  And thanks also to Bill and Tilo for putting this together.

Regards,
Dave
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan


Re: Zink Anode for SPURS Line Cutter

Scott SV Tengah
 

Our rudder zincs wear as they should and the spurs zinc wears also.

Given the cost of that Spurs and the minimal cost to buy the additional zinc, I opt to be conservative on this one and keep the line cutter zinc'd.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Upcoming Event: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle - Sat, 05/16/2020 20:00-21:00, Please RSVP #cal-reminder

main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar <main@...>
 

Reminder: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle

When: Saturday, 16 May 2020, 20:00 to 21:00, (GMT+00:00) UTC

Where:From La Rochelle, France aboard Amel 50 SPEED OF LIFE

An RSVP is requested. Click here to RSVP

Description:

Group members Matt & Cindy Salatino will present their brand new Amel 50 #27 "Speed of Life" from the Amel pontoon in La Rochelle. Matt and Cindy will give us a virtual tour during this presentation and answer your questions at the end of the presentation. Tilo Peters will administer the ZOOM meeting and I suspect that things will run smoothly and be enjoyed by all attending. If you cannot use ZOOM (highly recommended that you try), Tilo set up a YouTube Live stream: https://youtu.be/Ffks9eEkGG4The YouTube Live stream will likely be a bit off, as it seems to show my control view and not the speaker view that is normally transmitted via Zoom. Tilo will also record our meeting on YouTube which will be available 48-72 hours after the meeting. He will notify you when it is available.
 
   Direct link to Join the 16 May at 20:00 UTC - ZOOM Meeting https://epfl.zoom.us/j/98523568530
   Meeting ID: 985 2356 8530
   Join by SIP 98523568530@...

If you missed our first ZOOM meeting, you can view it on YouTube: https://youtu.be/7Mm1bbL-PaA. The first meeting was a test to understand the process. We did not have an expert guest speaker but we plan to have an expert guest speaker for most future meetings. I am currently working to line up experts for:
   Standing Rigging
   Sails 
   Refrigeration
   And more

Times for participation around the world.

       
Country GMT +/- Scheduled Time Scheduled Date
(GMT) 0 2000 5/16/2020
UK Summer Time 100 2100 5/16/2020
NZ 1200 800 5/17/2020
AU Queensland 1000 600 5/17/2020
Tahiti -1000 1000 5/16/2020
USA West DST -700 1300 5/16/2020
USA East DST -400 1600 5/16/2020
USA Central DST -500 1500 5/16/2020
Martinique -400 1600 5/16/2020
Germany 200 2200 5/16/2020
Central EU Summer Time 200 2200 5/16/2020
Note: The above was checked with: https://greenwichmeantime.com/time-gadgets/time-zone-converter/


Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

Scott SV Tengah
 

Gary,

We faced the same issue you did. I want to make sure we have 220/50 at all times because while I'm very careful and am very unlikely to accidentally run the washing machine/dishwasher/microwave on 60hz shore power, I can't rely on new crew always remembering.

Here's my system, as you may know: Victron Quattro 5000w/24v/120amp charger/inverter, 450AH lithium, Victron Skylla-i 80amp second charger.

Right now, if I find myself with 250v/60hz power, I will plug in, if necessary, to charge the lithiums and then completely unplug. This rarely takes more than 2 hours. My current system is wired so shore power goes to the Quattro first (which replaces the Amel transfer switch, too) and while it charges using the 120amp Quattro charger, it will also passthrough the 60hz power to the boat. That is obviously not ideal. I have confirmed with Victron that there is no way to disable this passthrough when shorepower is detected.

My Skylla-i is wired on the second AC output on the Quattro to avoid running the Skylla charger when the Quattro is acting as an inverter. I did this because 99.99% of the time I'm not in a marina, so I would like to be able to charge using both the Quattro and Skylla (200 amps total) while on genset.

This works great for me as we can run everything on the inverter/batteries. The aft AC will easily run all night on battery. If it's 40c and we need to run multiple AC units, that might be different.

A possible improvement would be to wire a switch somehow so that it's wired as a described above normally but you can flip the switch and have the 60hz shorepower only go to the Skylla when plugged into 60hz shorepower. That way, the skylla feeds 80amps DC to the batteries and the Quattro, not seeing shorepower, would act as an inverter and supply 230/50hz to the boat. 

Note that the Skylla-i will take 60hz, but it must be above 185v. I'm sure you could find a "world capable" 100-250v/50-60hz charger, but we couldn't find one that had high output and was compatible with the BMS, which is absolutely necessary when charging lithiums.

If you don't want to add the second charger and you have a solar MPPT and you won't find yourselves with the 60hz problem often, you could simply get a DC power supply and feed the DC output into your solar MPPT. A 30amp DC power supply can be had for less than $100. Not ideal but works well enough for occasional use. It's also a lot simpler and cheaper.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Stephen Davis
 

Hi Gary,

I tackled the hot water heater project yesterday, and replaced the heating element. The last time I did this job was mid 2014, and that time, the breaker would trip when turned on. I’ll attach a picture of what’s left of the element I removed yesterday. The copper tubing had split and expanded, and it was difficult to remove once it was unscrewed, as it didn’t want to fit through the hole. I ended up breaking off the the threaded end, and then using vise grips on the remaining part to eventually work it out. I was worried it would fall into the tank, but got lucky on that count. FYI...I still have the original hot Isotemp hot water heater with the orange insulation on it. It my be a worlds record for longevity. I suspect the new ones are not as well made as my old dinosaur. Also, I still had my 1 5/8” socket which fits fine on the element. 


I installed my Blue Sea AC multimeter over 5 years ago, and find it to be an invaluable way to find little glitches like this. The heater had a continuous .75 amp draw, and that has gone away with installation of the new element. In the future, I will plan to replace the element at 4 year intervals, which should avoid the mess I had this time. Of course, I’m assuming my original heater will survive that long. I must have confidence in it, as I already ordered a spare element!

Aloha,
Steve
Aloha SM 72
Hawaii, and preparing for Alaska in June


Re: Onan ballbearing check and valves values

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Gary,
It's been awhile, but I replaced the rotor bearing on my Northern Lights 6kw genset in situ with little difficulty. The rotor remains bolted to the flywheel as you remove the end with the bearing - no external support needed. I recall I did the old put-it-in-the-freezer trick to shrink the bearing and it slid in with no press needed.  That was at about 3000 hours; now I'm at 7500 and am overdue, so will tackle again soon. (I'm getting a very slight vibration with heavy loads.)
If you want to remove the rotor, as I did because it needed rewinding from salt water corrosion shorting the wires ($176 in La Paz VZ), it's heavy but quite manageable by hand. However it doesn't sound like you'd need to remove it for the 2500 hr. (if I recall correctly) bearing replacement..
Cheers, Craig


Re: SM2K Genoa Jib Cart ANTAL 624.492/C Order pending in the US #replacement #spares #order

Alan Grayson
 

Hi Michael, I would like to get 1 for a spare as well. Please add me to your order. We can work out payment and if we could have you ship it to Texas that would be great.
Regards
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
St Lucia


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Ryan Meador <ryan.d.meador@...>
Sent: Friday, 15 May 2020 9:26 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] SM2K Genoa Jib Cart ANTAL 624.492/C Order pending in the US #replacement #spares #order
 
The "other amel owner" is likely us.  We ordered them from Euro Marine Trading about 2 weeks ago and delivery is expected in another week or so.  That's the same price we were quoted.  We're getting new genoa blocks as well (part 01201, $399/ea).

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Fri, May 15, 2020 at 5:19 PM Michael & Robyn <SY_RIPPLE@...> wrote:
Greetings!
We are about to order spare ANTAL Genoa Jib Cart 624.492/C
it is a custom build version of http://www.antal.it/eng/624-492_en
We hear another AMEL owner is having an order pending too and we will get a good price approx. $360 per cart.
Anybody else interested to join the order?
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
still in Brunswick, GA