Re: anchor wash safety note
greg greg
in my experience the problem arises when AWP is not used frequently enough. it gets clogged with sea debris and requires the full refurbishing some time. the good thing is it't bronze and can be repaired :)
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Re: Near constant hot water without a generator - Here is how i did it.
Our water heater is an Isotherm.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I haven’t looked at the element nut size. ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On May 18, 2020, at 7:36 AM, Eric Meury <ericmeury@...> wrote:
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Re: Zink Anode for SPURS Line Cutter
Bonjour Olivier, hello Rudi and Scott,
I want to add my observations of some years: The zinc anode of the Spurs line cutter is completely away after a year, if you do not have the zinc anode on the nose of (in my case folding) propeller. This means, the protection of the big 2 anodes on the rudder blade is most seemingly not enough to protect the line cutter (and the propeller I believe) from corrosion. After installing the zinc anode on the propeller (instead of the 'red nose plastic' - as Olivier says), which by the way is quite easy also in diving, I detect no corrosion anymore at the zinc anode of the Spurs line cutter. I am happy now with a full set of zinc anodes from bow to aft, on (1) the bow thruster, (2) the Onan Generator, (3) the spurs line cutter, (4) the nose of the Propeller and (5) the 2 big ones at the rudder blade. This should last and avoid any corrosion easily a year! Best regards Alexander Hofmann, SY Oceanica I, Amel 54#156
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Re: Zink Anode for SPURS Line Cutter
Hi Olivier Thank you. Yes you are completely right. I forgot that U-shaped plastic part which isolate the SPURS from the bonded shaft. Have a nice day Ruedi Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of "Beaute Olivier via groups.io" <atlanticyachtsurvey@...> Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Datum: Sonntag, 17. Mai 2020 um 11:31 An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Zink Anode for SPURS Line Cutter Hello Rudi and Scott, the reason for the zinc on the SPURS rope-cutter is that it is attached to the fixed blade which is in fact isolated from the prop shaft by a plastic U-shaped part (you will have a close look next time) Therefore, this fixed blade is not correctly bonded to the rudder zincs, and it is important to keep its zinc in good condition. The purpose of the plastic part is to reduce friction betwen the shaft and the fixed blade. Have a nice day. Olivier.
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Re: Near constant hot water without a generator - Here is how i did it.
Eric Meury
hey matt.
im not 100% sure if there is a difference but i do know that my AC element way to many watts going out. This is the unit i purchased. https://globalsolarsupply.com/product/diversion-load-water-heating-element-60a12v-30a24v/ it will work for 12 or 24 volt. I think if you goole the type of water heater you have you can find out the size of the element. You will most likely need the professional tool to remove the water heater element. The cheap home ones will simply not do the job. at least on my tank that was the case. ...What brand of water heater do you have?
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Re: My Plotter has stopped providing CTS information
Bob,
I don’t have a Furuno plotter but I am wondering if you can restore the default settings.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Bob Grey via groups.io
Good morning Captains, I have an interesting problem on my
Amel 55, The Furuno plotter has stopped providing Course to Steer information
when I select a waypoint. One day it just stopped, and I'm not sure why,
everything else works fine just no CTS on the display information.
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My Plotter has stopped providing CTS information
Good morning Captains, I have an interesting problem on my Amel 55, The Furuno plotter has stopped providing Course to Steer information when I select a waypoint. One day it just stopped, and I'm not sure why, everything else works fine just no CTS on the display information.
Any ideas?? Bob Grey Amel 55 #25 Renaissance 3
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Re: Insurance
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Kent, I think we would quickly find out why insurance companies are trying to get out of the game. As to self insurance, ie carrying the risk myself. I don't, but if I took my premiums over 12 years collectively they would have over-subsrcibed my claims noticeably, even if a 50K lightning one was included. On shore in NZ is reasonable. Go off shore and up goes the premium Kind Regards Danny
On 18 May 2020 at 13:22 "karkauai via groups.io" <karkauai@...> wrote:
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Re: Onan ballbearing check and valves values
Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
Hello and thanks 4 your answers. But the question was: Is there a procedure to check the generator bearings for wear? As mentioned in the manual / service plan? Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54#39 Martinique
On Sun, May 17, 2020, 18:41 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
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Re: SN, SM, & 54 owners: If your outhaul line has ever slipped, this is a great idea
Mohammad Shirloo
Very interesting Bill. The amount of tension required to avoid the line slipping has always been a concern. Who knows when we’ll be back on board. But I will take a look and see if its something we would pursue.
Happy Sailing;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo AMEL 54 #099
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 5:38 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io> Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] SN, SM, & 54 owners: If your outhaul line has ever slipped, this is a great idea
The photo below is of an Amel 55. I have been aboard several 55's but never really noticed the fairleads near the outhaul winch. The way these fairleads are placed causes the outhaul winch to have a much better grasp of the outhaul line. If we could make this change on models previous to the 55, we could reduce the amount of tension on the outhaul line.
If anyone is so inclined to take on this project I will be happy to assist.
It would be a perfect job with cutting, welding, and painting, but maybe there is a much simpler way to accomplish this.
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Insurance
Hi All,
Given the insurance problems everyone is having, I thought I'd see if there is enough interest and/or expertise to pursue an AYOG self-insurance program. Pat (Shenanigans) and I have talked about it a little. Here's the gist of what we discussed: 1. A buy-in of some percentage of your boat's value that would be enough to cover the first year. For example, a $300,000 SM owner might pay 2% or $6,000. If we had 200 similar owners, we'd have $1,200,000 to pay out. 2. It would' be a high deductible coverage designed primarily to pay for total loss. Maybe something like 20% of the boat's value. 3. The most common claim would probably be lightening damage, which often amounts to $50,000 or more. Our plan might pay for half of a major claim like that? 4. Boat's would have to be out of the hurricane zones during the season. Any other restrictions? 5. Yearly Assessments could replenish what was paid out Or we could continue to pay in until the principle was self-sustaining. That would require investing the funds and a whole added layer of complexity. 6. A rotating Board of unpaid members would oversee the plan (maybe a LLC?), and an administrator would be hired to do the paperwork. 7. Owners would purchase their own liability insurance. This is all just a very rough framework that can be built on, scrapped and something else adopted, or what ever seems appropriate. Any and all thoughts and suggestions are encouraged. I'm hoping we might have an owner or two that have some insurance or legal expertise to help us understand the potential pitfalls and options available. Thanks for your ideas. Kent Kristy S M 243
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SN, SM, & 54 owners: If your outhaul line has ever slipped, this is a great idea
The photo below is of an Amel 55. I have been aboard several 55's but never really noticed the fairleads near the outhaul winch. The way these fairleads are placed causes the outhaul winch to have a much better grasp of the outhaul line. If we could make this change on models previous to the 55, we could reduce the amount of tension on the outhaul line. If anyone is so inclined to take on this project I will be happy to assist. It would be a perfect job with cutting, welding, and painting, but maybe there is a much simpler way to accomplish this.
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Re: Main sail outhaul Motorspor
Kaplan,Andre
Mark
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Good advice
Thanks again
If things improve we might be in your area later in summer...
Be well
Andre
On May 17, 2020, at 8:12 PM, Miles <milesbid@...> wrote:
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Re: Main sail outhaul Motorspor
Miles
Hello Andre,
Before you replace your motor, have someone look at it. Your problem could be as simple as a brush stuck or worn down. If the motor is damaged, you can probably find someone to rebuild it. I understand that it is a truck starting motor, but start with the brushes. I know this because it happened to me. Place a tarp under the boom when you take the cover off. If it is like mine, there is a lot of carbon dust in there.
With luck and cooperating officialdom, I will be in Newport, RI by the end of June.
Miles, sm 216, s/y Ladybug, Le Marin, Martinique
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Re: anchor wash safety note
You did not mention the 24v breaker for the anchor wash pump in the engine room. Bill
On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 3:37 PM william reynolds <sail23692@...> wrote:
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Re: Near constant hot water without a generator - Here is how i did it.
Bravo Eric. and I do not believe there is any difference in AC vs DC resistance heating element...but ask an electrician.
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Re: Onan ballbearing check and valves values
Sorry, guys. I did exactly the same thing as Gary Silver, and the bearing was never installed.
On Sat, May 16, 2020 at 12:45 PM Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote: Hi Gary,
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Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz
Scott SV Tengah
Michael,
Have you used the VE-Config software, or other means, to check the output hz on your system when connected to 60hz shorepower? Does it show that you're getting 50hz output? When I was designing my system, the Victron tech I talked to stated that the Victron Isolation Transformer is flexible in that it can accept 50/60hz but will not adjust a 60hz input to 50hz or vice versa. The data sheet seems to imply the same. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz
Scott SV Tengah
The stated inverter loss you mentioned is a bit simplified. A deeper look will allow you to make the best decision given your usage patterns, which is different than everyone else's. This may be especially helpful for you as you think about adding lithium, because there are differences to lead-acid that aren't so obvious until you dig deeper. Efficiency wasn't a stated goal in Gary's post, but I presume he doesn't want to waste energy/money.
https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/VE_Marine_generator_test_RVA_07-jan-2008.pdf
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anchor wash safety note
william reynolds
The 24 vdc breaker on the 24 volt panel controls the power to activators on the windlass, the sail motors and winches but not to the anchor wash. The anchor wash has direct power from the C/B panel to the switch to the pump and is fused at 10 amps @24 vdc.and is hot all the time unless you go down into the engine room and trip the circuit breaker. Running this current through the 24 vdc switch on the 24 vdc main panel for the anchor, windlass and sail motors would be an overload situation. So, the anchor wash switch is hot as long as the C/B in the engine bay is activated. I was advised that you should to get into the engine compartment and kill or activate the anchor wash circuit breaker there to disable/enable the power to the anchor wash. Not everyone is going to do this and the anchor wash pump switch will be live (or dead) all the time. The anchor wash power cable is right under the Ray marine A/P head in the upper access over the galley. I installed a 15 amp, 24 vdc relay in the anchor wash power line and connected the relay activator (42 milli-amp) to the 24 volt switch that controls everything else. Attached are photos of the installed relay and wiring choices. Now the anchor wash switch is hot only when the main 24 vdc power to the other items is selected. A $15 fix to protect a $250 saltwater pump. Bill Reynolds CloudStreet SM2K
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