Date   

Re: Dolphin Charger Model Numbers

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary,

BeBe #387 - 100 amp charger is: Model DOL24100/1C Serial # 02E0010

Photo uploaded at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2110622584/pic/list

More later.

Best,

Bill
s/v Bebe #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Can someone aboard their boat tell me the model numbers of the small and larger Dolphin battery chargers originally fitted by Amel for SM 2000 approximate hull number 335 (vintage July 2001 manufactured),

Thanks, Gary Silver


Re: URGENT Help Needed - RPM Issues

karkauai
 

Hi, again, my friends. I thought I'd update you on the work-up and diagnosis of the Volvo TMD22 rpm problem I've had on "Kristy" SM243. Thanks again to all of you who responded.
The engine was tested on Lake Texoma during the survey, and was deemed to be working satisfactorily. Unfortunately, there is no mention of how high the rpms got during the sea trial or under no-load. The Auto-prop was clean and the blades spun freely on the hub. Since she had been sitting for 6 years with only an occasional run on the lake, I had the fuel polished before leaving Galveston, but noted that the fuel was drawn from the fuel line going from the tank to the engine, and that no effort was made to check the bottom of the tank or clean it. I was told that only a small amount of sediment was recovered during the "polishing". Not knowing any better, I thought I was in good shape. The tachometer/hour meter was replaced due to the hour meter not working. I was told that the engine had only ~2000 hours after four years of cruising the Med, Caribbean, and northern S.America ???. The Onan had only 800 hours on its meter. The Volvo was clean and looked nearly new. The oil was changed and new Racors and secondary filter were fitted.
On the way to Ft. Lauderdale we noted that the engine purred like a kitten up to 1600 rpm, but started smoking a little from 1600 to 1800 rpm and wouldn't go any faster than that. At 1600 rpm the boat made a comfortable 6-6.5 kts. It started without problems. In Ft. Lauderdale, I left her in the hands of Ray Eaton, who checked the throttle linkage, changed the Racors and secondary filter again, removed the turbo and had it refurbished. He said that the turbo people told him that "the part that opens" wasn't working properly and had been repaired (?wastegate?). When he replaced the turbo, he was convinced that would solve the problem but didn't do a sea trial. When I moved Kristy from where she was docked to the city marina, I found that she still wouldn't get up over 1850rpm. Ray called in a favor from his best diesel mechanic, and at last minute notice he came out to look at the boat while Ray was there. He noted a significant exhaust leak where the turbo was attached to the engine and acquired new gaskets. He also felt that the engine was running faster than the tach indicated, and checked with his hand-held tach. Yep, the tach hadn't been calibrated. The paperwork for the new tach wasn't on the boat and it took him considerable time to run down the calibration technique. He came back the next day, the turbo was reinstalled using some high-heat sealant on the gaskets, the tach was calibrated and we sea trialed her only to find that she was actually topping out at 2400 rpm. The speedometer was reading 6.5 kts, but the gps was reading 8 kts in both directions (up and down stream at nearly slack tide). He felt the engine was working fine and that it was a problem with the prop. We dove on the Auto-Prop and it had only a couple small barnacles on each blade, the blades spun freely on the hub. The barnacles were cleaned off and the hull was noted to be free of any growth. Another sea trial and no difference was noted in performance.
We went on to the Bahamas for two weeks, motored for a total of 44 hours in light winds, and had no new problems. Downwind on the run from Abaco to Charleston there was a fairly strong exhaust odor noted. When we got to Charleston the port side from the exhaust outlet aft was significantly soot-stained. I waited in Charleston for a week for a storm to pass and couldn't get Superior Diesel (the local Volvo dealer) to return my calls, much less send a technician out to have a look. I finally got another mechanic (Aaron "Oil in a Day's Work") to take a look the next week. He found another smaller exhaust leak at the turbo/engine connection. He removed the turbo, cleaned the waste-gate (but noted significant pitting at the waste-gate seal), and replaced it with new gaskets. He checked to make sure that the injectors were all getting fuel. No change. Next he removed the turbo and took it to the Volvo people who told him it was "shot" and not repairable due to the pitting at the wastegate seal. New turbo installed. No change except that now there was no smoke at all when throttled up to 2400…now thinking a fuel problem. He brought another diesel mechanic friend of his to the boat the next weekend (I'm now commuting to and from Charleston every weekend trying to get this figured out). He checked the injector pump and found it "like new". This guy honed in immediately on the gauge at the Racors reading -11 cm pressure. I'm a dunce (but learning), but it's amazing to me that not one of the other 3 mechanics who looked at her noticed that. We changed the Racors again, there was no debris in the trap, and the secondary filter, and the pressure dropped to 0. She revved up to 4000+ rpms under no load, but when we sea-trialed again the max was now 2600 rpm. Damn!
Next weekend I met Aaron and a diving buddy of his (very professional ex-Navy diver who just retired and is starting his business in Charleston…Eric of "The Dive, LLC"). He was knowledgeable about the AutoProp and had an underwater camera that he used to show me what he found…very cool. I was amazed to see only a few small barnacles on each blade and on the shaft that he said would make a significant difference in performance. We sea-trialed again and this time got 3200 rpm under load, but by the time we got out where we could run her hard, the gauge at the Racors was reading -5 cm again.
I'm having the tank cleaned now, all lines from tank to engine checked, fuel polished (again), and am convinced I have the problem solved!
In summary: Turbo shot (not recognized in Ft. Lauderdale), fuel dirty (in spite of having it "polished" in Galveston, and neither of the mechanics in Ft. Lauderdale recognizing the high vacuum at the Racors), and AutoProp fouled (despite my checking and cleaning it up in the Bahamas…albeit obviously not adequately). Multiple problems all combining to cause the same symptom of inadequate rpm under load. Total bill: $3950!!!
So you see…almost all of you were correct in telling me what to look for. Thanks again.
Lesson learned: Take a marine diesel course, get my hands dirty, take your advice, only call a diesel mechanic after I've done what you tell me to do. These guys charge from $75-100 an hour and are so busy they don't act like they care if they get your business or not. Aaron of "Oil in a Day's Work" is an exception to that rule. He's a couple of years into his own business after learning in the Navy and working for Superior Diesel for a few years. He really took an interest in my boat and my problem and found the people to help him figure it all out.
Kent
"Kristy" SM243


Sale of Super Maramu

ivarmylde <mylde@...>
 

After more than 30 years of sailing we hve decided to sell our Amel SM 1991 model.
Fully equipped. Yanmar 100hk engine from 2002,approx 600 hrs, Onan generator from 2002, approx 500 hrs, most sails from 2001 ( little used )watermaker, SSB, Sat phone etc, etc, boat in very good condition, laying Corfu, Greece.
Cud take property ( house/flat ) as payment.
Price , Euro 225.000
Ivar Mylde


Dolphin Charger Model Numbers

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Can someone aboard their boat tell me the model numbers of the small and larger Dolphin battery chargers originally fitted by Amel for SM 2000 approximate hull number 335 (vintage July 2001 manufactured),

Thanks, Gary Silver


Re: [Amel] Re: Downwind System

Ivan Campbell <i-campbell@...>
 

Thanks Bill



The boat is in Alcudiamar Marina in Mallorca and we go out on 1st July to
sail east. I will try the system then. You have been very helpful



Regards



Ivan



Ocean Hobo

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: 22 June 2009 00:18
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Downwind System








Ivan,

I was describing poling-out the genoa to the Port side. However, you do
not use the sheet cars when either foresail is poled out.

The Ballooner is rigged to Starboard. You can remove the starboard
genoa sheet and use it; or, we use the sheet supplied by Amel for the
mizzen ballooner. Always rig the Port side genoa before rigging the
starboard ballooner.

Setting the Ballooner to Starboard
1. Point the boat with the wind coming from the Starboard quarter
2. Set the starboard pole like I described in setting the port pole
including the ballooner sheet set through the block at the end of the pole
and not through the car.
3. Take a turn with the sheet on the sheet winch near the end of the
sheet.locking it so that you do not lose the bitter end
4. Engage the end loop the ballooner halyard in the ballooner guide slot and
set the other end of the ballooner halyard (the end with a small piece of
line and shackle) through the same end loop. This creates a "continuous-loop
halyard" and allows you to pull the end loop free of the ballooner guide
after the ballooner guide has "clicked" into position on the swivel.
5. Turn the furler so that the starboard groove is facing the main mast
6. Place the ballooner bolt rope in the outside (starboard) groove on the
furler.
7. One crew guides the bolt rope while the other hoists the ballooner.
8. Hoist until you hear the ballooner guide "click" into position on the
swivel. We sometimes have to take a turn on a winch to get the ballooner
guide to "click" or lock on the swivel and we rarely hear the click. You
will know it is locked when it will not come down
9. Secure the ballooner's tack by tying it to the block on top of the furler
(the block you would use if the furler motor failed.painted gray on our
boat)
10. Slacken the ballooner halyard.if it is "clicked" onto the swivel, it
will not come down.
11. Now pull down on the ballooner halyard removing it from the ballooner
guide and secure the halyard.this is important.if you try to furl the head
sails with this still attached, you will have some serious problems.
12. Point the boat with the wind coming directly astern and set the
ballooner sheet to about 1 meter from the end of the pole.
Recovering the Ballooner:
1. Point the boat with the wind just behind the starboard beam (about 115
degrees) and let out about 5 meters of starboard sheet. Note: This
point-of-sail causes the ballooner to fall against the port-side genoa as it
falls down rather than falling into the water.
2. Untie the tack.
3. One crew member stands in the starboard sail locker to retrieve the
ballooner.he must be prepared for the ballooner to come down very fast
4. Another crew member hoists the ballooner de-hooker mouse in the center
track using a "continuous-loop halyard" to "un-click" or disconnect the
ballooner guide from the swivel. You will probably have to take a turn on
the winch and use a winch handle to un-click it
5. The "sail locker" crew member grabs the falling sail as fast as possible
while stuffing it into the locker. You will be surprised how fast it comes
down!
6. If you have three crew members, the third person could control the speed
of decent by holding the bolt rope near the furler groove and slowing
decent.
7. Do not forget to secure the ballooner halyard and ballooner de-hooker
mouse or you will have serious problems if you try to furl the genoa.

Notes: You can furl both head sails together by slacking both sheet winches
and furling.
You can also tack one sail into the other, assuming your sheets are long
enough. I would not recommend running with sails tacked into one another for
a long period as I assume there would be some chafing. Amel says to douse
this double downwind rig when winds exceed 20kts True.

Sheet should be 21 meters of 16mm, unless you would want the ability to tack
the starboard ballooner inside of the port genoa. If so, use 24m.

Best,

Bill
s/v Bebe, SM2, #387
Currently Mackay Australia

The
sheet you mention removing from the sheetcar is this the genoa sheet or is
a
different sheet rigged for the ballooner? If it is a different sheet can
someone let me know the approx. length since there isn't one on my
Santorin.



Re: [Amel] Re: Maramu vs SM

eric meury <ericmeury@...>
 

thank you to everybody that responded on this thread
 
i really found that the SM is a fantastic boat.  From what i understand the maramu has less systems (clearly).  Somebody mentioned that if the boat doesn't have a bow thruster one can be installed and that the aft cabin can be rebuilt to accomadate a queen bed.
 
The maramu  are missing the pilot berge in the walk thru.  Has anybod converted the table in the salon to a berth, i know this probably interfers with the wine and rum storage but that would be a great berth for guests.
 
thanks again.
 
hopefully i'll get to sail on an older maramu soon.
 
cheers
 
eric j.

--- On Fri, 6/19/09, karkauai <karkauai@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: karkauai <karkauai@yahoo.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Maramu vs SM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, June 19, 2009, 8:24 AM








Is Golden Daze a Maramu or SM? Do you have a pic?
Thanks,
Kent
"Kristy" SM243



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Battery Charger-sm376

Eric Freedman
 

Richard,
the charger is a 50/60 cycle unit.
it has been working fine for the last 6 years.
thanks
eric
sm 376 kimberlite

----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Piller
Date: Sunday, June 21, 2009 1:53 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel] Battery Charger-sm376
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Eric, the most likely issue with the 100 amp charger is the
input. If you are using a charger that is set for 50 cycles and
you are running it at 60 cycles you will have issues. Second if
the current from the dock or gen set is more then the voltage
rating on charger you'll also get errors. We solved the problem
using an 80 amp output Dolphin/Reye charger that accepts 90-260
volts and either 50 or 60 cycles. It has worked very well
without issue.

Good luck see you in Annapolis?
Richard and Joan on Challenge SM 209

--- On Sat, 6/20/09, kimberlite wrote:

From: kimberlite
Subject: [Amel] Battery Charger-sm376
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, June 20, 2009, 6:48 PM

















Hi,



I have a 100 and a 30 amp battery charger. The 30 amp charger
puts out 27.5

volts which I believe is correct. The 100 amp charger is now
putting out

almost 30 volts on dockside power and on the genset. This of
course is too

high. Does anyone know how to diagnose



this problem? Do you know of an agent in the USA?



Fair Winds



Eric



Kimberlite Super Maramu #376






































[Amel] Re: Downwind System

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ivan,

I was describing poling-out the genoa to the Port side. However, you do
not use the sheet cars when either foresail is poled out.

The Ballooner is rigged to Starboard. You can remove the starboard
genoa sheet and use it; or, we use the sheet supplied by Amel for the
mizzen ballooner. Always rig the Port side genoa before rigging the
starboard ballooner.

Setting the Ballooner to Starboard
1. Point the boat with the wind coming from the Starboard quarter
2. Set the starboard pole like I described in setting the port pole including the ballooner sheet set through the block at the end of the pole and not through the car.
3. Take a turn with the sheet on the sheet winch near the end of the sheet…locking it so that you do not lose the bitter end
4. Engage the end loop the ballooner halyard in the ballooner guide slot and set the other end of the ballooner halyard (the end with a small piece of line and shackle) through the same end loop. This creates a "continuous-loop halyard" and allows you to pull the end loop free of the ballooner guide after the ballooner guide has "clicked" into position on the swivel.
5. Turn the furler so that the starboard groove is facing the main mast
6. Place the ballooner bolt rope in the outside (starboard) groove on the furler.
7. One crew guides the bolt rope while the other hoists the ballooner.
8. Hoist until you hear the ballooner guide "click" into position on the swivel. We sometimes have to take a turn on a winch to get the ballooner guide to "click" or lock on the swivel and we rarely hear the click. You will know it is locked when it will not come down
9. Secure the ballooner's tack by tying it to the block on top of the furler (the block you would use if the furler motor failed…painted gray on our boat)
10. Slacken the ballooner halyard…if it is "clicked" onto the swivel, it will not come down.
11. Now pull down on the ballooner halyard removing it from the ballooner guide and secure the halyard…this is important…if you try to furl the head sails with this still attached, you will have some serious problems.
12. Point the boat with the wind coming directly astern and set the ballooner sheet to about 1 meter from the end of the pole.
Recovering the Ballooner:
1. Point the boat with the wind just behind the starboard beam (about 115 degrees) and let out about 5 meters of starboard sheet. Note: This point-of-sail causes the ballooner to fall against the port-side genoa as it falls down rather than falling into the water.
2. Untie the tack.
3. One crew member stands in the starboard sail locker to retrieve the ballooner…he must be prepared for the ballooner to come down very fast
4. Another crew member hoists the ballooner de-hooker mouse in the center track using a "continuous-loop halyard" to "un-click" or disconnect the ballooner guide from the swivel. You will probably have to take a turn on the winch and use a winch handle to un-click it
5. The "sail locker" crew member grabs the falling sail as fast as possible while stuffing it into the locker. You will be surprised how fast it comes down!
6. If you have three crew members, the third person could control the speed of decent by holding the bolt rope near the furler groove and slowing decent.
7. Do not forget to secure the ballooner halyard and ballooner de-hooker mouse or you will have serious problems if you try to furl the genoa.

Notes: You can furl both head sails together by slacking both sheet winches and furling.
You can also tack one sail into the other, assuming your sheets are long enough. I would not recommend running with sails tacked into one another for a long period as I assume there would be some chafing. Amel says to douse this double downwind rig when winds exceed 20kts True.

Sheet should be 21 meters of 16mm, unless you would want the ability to tack the starboard ballooner inside of the port genoa. If so, use 24m.

Best,

Bill
s/v Bebe, SM2, #387
Currently Mackay Australia

The

sheet you mention removing from the sheetcar is this the genoa sheet or is a
different sheet rigged for the ballooner? If it is a different sheet can
someone let me know the approx. length since there isn't one on my Santorin.



Re: Davits and dinghy specification

luvkante
 

Richard,

great to have a forum like this and guys like you!

I never payed any attention to the arguments you are mentioning. I will ask Antoine to give me Francks coordinates.

Thank you very much indeed,

Martin


Re: [Amel] Battery Charger-sm376

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Eric, the most likely issue with the 100 amp charger is the input.  If you are using a charger that is set for 50 cycles and you are running it at 60 cycles you will have issues.  Second if the current from the dock or gen set is more then the voltage rating on charger you'll also get errors.  We solved the problem using an 80 amp output Dolphin/Reye charger that accepts 90-260 volts and either 50 or 60 cycles.  It has worked very well without issue. 

Good luck see you in Annapolis?
Richard and Joan on Challenge SM 209

--- On Sat, 6/20/09, kimberlite <kimberlite@optonline.net> wrote:

From: kimberlite <kimberlite@optonline.net>
Subject: [Amel] Battery Charger-sm376
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, June 20, 2009, 6:48 PM

















Hi,



I have a 100 and a 30 amp battery charger. The 30 amp charger puts out 27.5

volts which I believe is correct. The 100 amp charger is now putting out

almost 30 volts on dockside power and on the genset. This of course is too

high. Does anyone know how to diagnose



this problem? Do you know of an agent in the USA?



Fair Winds



Eric



Kimberlite Super Maramu #376



































[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Davits and dinghy specification

RJ
 

Martin,
I do not think it is a good idea unless it is for a short distance such as in the islands or in the Med between ports with reliable forecasts. As an example last week around Cape Finisterre after a calm crossing of the Biscay within minutes the wind was up to 35 knots.Iwas very glad the dinghy was secured on deck. It fits perfectly over the aft cabin behind the mizzen mast and creates no interference with opening the aft head hatch.
Franck who owns Secteur Blanc is a very good guy. He will give you good advice.
You can get his number from Antoine at Amel.
All the best
Richard
Amel 54 113
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: "luvkante" <luvkante@yahoo.com>

Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2009 08:07:59
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Davits and dinghy specification


Richard,

thank you for your quick response. I will get in touch with Franck.

Do you think it is not appropriate to leave the dinghy on the davits on passages?

Best regards,

Martin


Re: Davits and dinghy specification

luvkante
 

Richard,

thank you for your quick response. I will get in touch with Franck.

Do you think it is not appropriate to leave the dinghy on the davits on passages?

Best regards,

Martin


Re: [Amel] Re: Downwind System

Ivan Campbell <i-campbell@...>
 

Hi Bill and Judy



I have just come across your instructions for using the downwind rig. The
sheet you mention removing from the sheetcar is this the genoa sheet or is a
different sheet rigged for the ballooner? If it is a different sheet can
someone let me know the approx. length since there isn't one on my Santorin.



Thanks



Ivan Campbell



Ocean Hobo

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: 15 December 2008 15:25
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Downwind System



Jeff,

The book adequately describes what to do and it takes doing it several
times before you will feel comfortable. For a portion of our sail
from Isla Margarita to Bonaire on our way to Cartagena we had the dual
headsails rigged and achieved 12kts with the wind directly behind us.
Although we had owned BeBe for some time we discovered that the GPS
had a high speed alarm and it was set for 11.5kts! On a passage from
Bora Bora to Tonga we experienced a dead-downwind sail with the dual
headsails rigged for 5 days without touching a sheet and without
dropping below 7.5kts. We arrived a day before other who were unable
to sail dead downwind.

We almost always rig both poles before long passages. The long pole
has a hook which hooks on the stainless life rail. To keep the pole
from scratching the life rail we cut a 12" piece of a swimming noodle
and sliced it so that it snaps over the life rail and fits between the
life rail and the pole when the pole is hanging on the life rail.

To use the poles (2 crew member process), rig them per the book then:
1.) remove the sheet from the sheet car and run it outside all of the
pole lines back to the large sheet block securing the bitter end to
the sheet winch.
2.) one person unhooks the pole from the life rail as the other raises
the pole about 18" cleating the up guy to its winch on the mast
3.) one person pulls the blue line while the other person pushes the
pole outward.
4.) the person who pulled the blue line now cleats it to the deck cleat.
5.) now raise the pole to its final position by winching the up guy
until the pole is horizontal and all of the pole lines will tighten if
you cleated them at the marked spots in the first place.
6.) pull the slack out of the sheet and rig and cleat the sheet for
use on the sheet winch.
7.) set the sail to about 1 meter from the end of the pole.
9.) enjoy

It gets much easier as you repeat the process.

If you are at Club Nautico please say hello to John and Alberto.

Best,

Bill & Judy
s/v BeBe #387 SM2 #387
svbebe "at" gmail.com
currently Auckland, New Zealand

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "rapp.jeffrey"
<rapp.jeffrey@...> wrote:

We have owned "Antares" SM2K 378, for about a year, so we are relative
newbies(we did own a Maramu 48 20 years ago, but she was a simpler
boat). I am embarrassed to admit that we have never used the downwind
system, because putting it up seems daunting.
We have received spoken instructions from Ray Eaton, and read the Amel
manual, but we are still unsure. We have also practiced putting up the
poles, but without the sails. It seems like a lot of work on deck when
out to sea.
Is anyone willing to provide detailed, step by step instructions,
designed for the relatively ignorant, from start to finish? Also, from
reading postings on other subjects, I gather some of you actually rig
the poles in advance of needing them, leaving them rigged and
presumably secured on deck somehow. If so, could you please include
instructions on this aspect of the procedure.
We are currently in Cartagena,Colombia, a wonderful town. Don't miss it.
Thanks in advance
Jeff
"Antares"


Re: [Amel] Davits and dinghy specification

RJ
 

Martin,
The dinghy model number in my message should have read 310 NOT 340. My apologies.
Richard
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: jancsi2@aol.com

Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 23:09:12
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Davits and dinghy specification


I suggest you consider the lightest hard bottom inflatable with the lightest engine to drive it. Consider that on passages you will likely want to carry it inverted on the aft deck.
We bought a Southern Pacific Shearwater 340 which has an aluminum hull weighs under 90 lb and a 5hp motor
Franck who takes care of Amels in La Rochelle is now a dealer for these boats and I know he was very impressed with them when he fit ours to the davits on our 54.
You should definitely call and speak to him.
Sent from. Aventura off Portugal
Richard.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: "luvkante" <luvkante@yahoo.com>

Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 14:24:05
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Davits and dinghy specification


Hi all,

I am about to get a new Amel 54 next year, on which I ordered the original Amel davits.
What are the constraints and recommendations about the size, weight, dimensions and specifications about a new dinghy (and outboard) to buy. I have to mention, that the boat will have the automatic passarelle as well.
I read all the postings about davits in this group, but couldn`t develop a clear picture.
Thanks for your support!!!!

Martin


Re: Battery Charger-sm376

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Eric,

If it comes to buying a new one, Defender also sells Reya Dolphin chargers for less than Ward's http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|985|941870&id=941774

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2 #387


US Agent/Distributor for Reya Dolphin is: (there may be others)

Ward's Marine Electric
617 SW 3rd Avenue
Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33315
954.523.2815 Phone 800.545.9273 Toll Free
954.523.1967 Fax 800.297.8240 Toll Free

Let me know how they help you.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@> wrote:

Hi,

I have a 100 and a 30 amp battery charger. The 30 amp charger puts out 27.5
volts which I believe is correct. The 100 amp charger is now putting out
almost 30 volts on dockside power and on the genset. This of course is too
high. Does anyone know how to diagnose

this problem? Do you know of an agent in the USA?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Super Maramu #376





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Davits and dinghy specification

RJ
 

I suggest you consider the lightest hard bottom inflatable with the lightest engine to drive it. Consider that on passages you will likely want to carry it inverted on the aft deck.
We bought a Southern Pacific Shearwater 340 which has an aluminum hull weighs under 90 lb and a 5hp motor
Franck who takes care of Amels in La Rochelle is now a dealer for these boats and I know he was very impressed with them when he fit ours to the davits on our 54.
You should definitely call and speak to him.
Sent from. Aventura off Portugal
Richard.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: "luvkante" <luvkante@yahoo.com>

Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 14:24:05
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Davits and dinghy specification


Hi all,

I am about to get a new Amel 54 next year, on which I ordered the original Amel davits.
What are the constraints and recommendations about the size, weight, dimensions and specifications about a new dinghy (and outboard) to buy. I have to mention, that the boat will have the automatic passarelle as well.
I read all the postings about davits in this group, but couldn`t develop a clear picture.
Thanks for your support!!!!

Martin


Re: Battery Charger-sm376

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

US Agent/Distributor for Reya Dolphin is: (there may be others)

Ward's Marine Electric
617 SW 3rd Avenue
Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33315
954.523.2815 Phone 800.545.9273 Toll Free
954.523.1967 Fax 800.297.8240 Toll Free

Let me know how they help you.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi,

I have a 100 and a 30 amp battery charger. The 30 amp charger puts out 27.5
volts which I believe is correct. The 100 amp charger is now putting out
almost 30 volts on dockside power and on the genset. This of course is too
high. Does anyone know how to diagnose

this problem? Do you know of an agent in the USA?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Super Maramu #376







Battery Charger-sm376

Eric Freedman
 

Hi,

I have a 100 and a 30 amp battery charger. The 30 amp charger puts out 27.5
volts which I believe is correct. The 100 amp charger is now putting out
almost 30 volts on dockside power and on the genset. This of course is too
high. Does anyone know how to diagnose

this problem? Do you know of an agent in the USA?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Super Maramu #376


Re: [Amel] buying amel

c_fruendt
 

the Mango is a real big boat for two person, and is nicely shown in the video from mr potter. if you offer you mango in the mentioned price range let me have a private mail with some more infos.


Davits and dinghy specification

luvkante
 

Hi all,

I am about to get a new Amel 54 next year, on which I ordered the original Amel davits.
What are the constraints and recommendations about the size, weight, dimensions and specifications about a new dinghy (and outboard) to buy. I have to mention, that the boat will have the automatic passarelle as well.
I read all the postings about davits in this group, but couldn`t develop a clear picture.
Thanks for your support!!!!

Martin