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Re: [Amel] Re: Batteries reconfiguration

Paul LaFrance <pflafrance@...>
 

Gary
We do have 13 batteries. The engine one has the higher Cranking output that is not on the other 12 batteries as they are deep charge batteries.
I believe part of this discussion started when we reviewed Nigel's writings on batteries in numerous sail articles with the crew on board.
The impeller vice grips you sent work perfectly
Paul & Sue
SM # 362 SV NOMAD



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: no_reply@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2009 17:26:04 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Re: Batteries reconfiguration


























Hi Paul & Sue:



Both you and Vito mentioned that you have 12 batteries in your house bank (13 total

including the starting battery). Is this correct? My boat (Amel SM 2000 hull # 335 has 9

total bateries). Perhaps you could verify this, but I suspect that you have only 9 total.



Nevertheless, your friend's observation is interesting. If I put in 8 Trojan SCS225 (12 volt

225 amp hour) batteries for my house bank this would yield 900 amp hours at 24 volts

DC which would make your recommendation even more cogent. I might have to do a

little digging in Nigel Calder's book to see what he recommends. I would be very

interested in hearing from Joel on this as he might be able to shed some light on Amel's

logic for their design.



Regards, Gary Silver

s/v Liahona on the hard in Jolly Harbor Antigua



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <pflafrance@...> wrote:

We recently had on board an electrician a retired navy commander for subs for our trip north. They reviewed our charging system (Engine 100 & 30 Amp alternators) and the Genset 100 amp outputs for our 12 battery Delco bank that has 840 Amp/Hours.
They recommended that we split the existing battery bank of 12 batteries into 2 separate banks with a switch to better control charging. It appears Amel built the vessel for charging a 400 Amp/hour battery bank.
They indicated that the current charging system is not sufficient for the existing battery bank of 12 batteries.
They noted that the 2 separate banks would provide sufficient power for a days use based on our consumption levels.
Further benefits would be that the one bank not in use would have a days rest and could be recharged in a shorter time than the full bank. They recommended using Bank #1 on odd days and Bank #2 on even days.
The other benefit would be that when the need arises to replace the batteries only one bank would have to be done at a time if only a few batteries failed by moving them around.
Has anyone done this or had similar thoughts.
I am not an electrical person and batteries are not something I am fully conversant with but I'm learning.
Paul & Sue
SM #362





















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Re: Batteries reconfiguration

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Paul & Sue:

Both you and Vito mentioned that you have 12 batteries in your house bank (13 total
including the starting battery). Is this correct? My boat (Amel SM 2000 hull # 335 has 9
total bateries). Perhaps you could verify this, but I suspect that you have only 9 total.

Nevertheless, your friend's observation is interesting. If I put in 8 Trojan SCS225 (12 volt
225 amp hour) batteries for my house bank this would yield 900 amp hours at 24 volts
DC which would make your recommendation even more cogent. I might have to do a
little digging in Nigel Calder's book to see what he recommends. I would be very
interested in hearing from Joel on this as he might be able to shed some light on Amel's
logic for their design.

Regards, Gary Silver
s/v Liahona on the hard in Jolly Harbor Antigua

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <pflafrance@...> wrote:

We recently had on board an electrician a retired navy commander for subs for our trip north. They reviewed our charging system (Engine 100 & 30 Amp alternators) and the Genset 100 amp outputs for our 12 battery Delco bank that has 840 Amp/Hours.
They recommended that we split the existing battery bank of 12 batteries into 2 separate banks with a switch to better control charging. It appears Amel built the vessel for charging a 400 Amp/hour battery bank.
They indicated that the current charging system is not sufficient for the existing battery bank of 12 batteries.
They noted that the 2 separate banks would provide sufficient power for a days use based on our consumption levels.
Further benefits would be that the one bank not in use would have a days rest and could be recharged in a shorter time than the full bank. They recommended using Bank #1 on odd days and Bank #2 on even days.
The other benefit would be that when the need arises to replace the batteries only one bank would have to be done at a time if only a few batteries failed by moving them around.
Has anyone done this or had similar thoughts.
I am not an electrical person and batteries are not something I am fully conversant with but I'm learning.

Paul & Sue
SM #362
Batteries reconfiguration

Paul <pflafrance@...>
 

We recently had on board an electrician a retired navy commander for subs for our trip north. They reviewed our charging system (Engine 100 & 30 Amp alternators) and the Genset 100 amp outputs for our 12 battery Delco bank that has 840 Amp/Hours.
They recommended that we split the existing battery bank of 12 batteries into 2 separate banks with a switch to better control charging. It appears Amel built the vessel for charging a 400 Amp/hour battery bank.
They indicated that the current charging system is not sufficient for the existing battery bank of 12 batteries.
They noted that the 2 separate banks would provide sufficient power for a days use based on our consumption levels.
Further benefits would be that the one bank not in use would have a days rest and could be recharged in a shorter time than the full bank. They recommended using Bank #1 on odd days and Bank #2 on even days.
The other benefit would be that when the need arises to replace the batteries only one bank would have to be done at a time if only a few batteries failed by moving them around.
Has anyone done this or had similar thoughts.
I am not an electrical person and batteries are not something I am fully conversant with but I'm learning.

Paul & Sue
SM #362
Re: [Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions

Richard Molony <rfmolony@...>
 

Dave,

Thanks. That sounds right, being the only alternative left after looking
into all of the other possibilities. Adventures in contortion in engine
room land.

Richard

On Sat, Jun 27, 2009 at 10:38 PM, David Wallace <svairops@hotmail.com>wrote:


Richard,
On the Maramu, the mizzen mast is stepped at the level of the cockpit seat,
not on the aft cabin roof as for the Mango etc. I can't get to our boat
right now (it's in Mexico and we're not) but to the best of my recollection
all the wires/cables go through a robust tube under the mast between the
seat level and the cockpit deck level, which can be seen in the small center
compartment under the aft seats. The wires/cables then come out in the
center aft of the engine room, between the mizzen support struts and right
at the aft bulkhead. The radar cable on our boat originally ran through the
engine room to the forward bulkhead, then to starboard into the very forward
end of the aft companionway, then up and over and forward to the nav
station. There was a junction box on the aft bulkhead of the engine room to
splice the cable.
Dave Wallaces/v Air OpsMaramu #104

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: rfmolony@gmail.com
Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2009 21:32:53 -0400
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions


























Alan,



Thanks. I will take a look.



Richard

On Sat, Jun 27, 2009 at 5:30 PM, svcharisma <svcharisma@yahoo.com> wrote:



Richard,
On my Mango, the mizzen mast wiring came out behind the mirror in the aft
head. It took me quite a while to figure this out, in fact I had already
cut

the radar wires in another spot before I removed the mirror and voila.
Good

luck.
Alan Spence
sv Charisma, Mango #62
Musket Cove, Fiji


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------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links
Information wanted about possible set ups for a bimini on a Santorin

Willem J. Kroes
 

Has anyone informatio about possible set ups for a bimini on a Santorin?

I ám not tall but can't stand upright under the sunsail extension of the foldiong sprayhood. So I want a bimini.

Advice and pictures are very welcome (possible attachment points for the frame, folding down situation, etc.)

Willem and Thea Kroes

Santorin #69 "Kavanga" now in Kos harbour, Greece
Re: Trojan 200 vs Trojan 225 Batteries for Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Thanks Vito:
Just to confrim with you a couple of things:

1. Since the SCS225 Trojan Battery is almost one inch longer than the AC Delco
batteries that were fit by Amel, please verify that the extra length doesn't
interfere with anything in the battery box.

2. Does the 2x4 fit correctly between the water filler caps without having to
modify it?

3. Did you have to do anything special with the battery handles?

4. Did you shorten the Amel copper interconnect bars to fit between the
posts or did you have new cables made to tie the + to -posts together?

5. Has your boat been located in regions that are as hot as the Caribbean
and how often do you have to service the batteries with water?

6. What year was you Amel SM manufactured and how long have you had
your Trojan SCS225 batteries?

7. Are you pleased with the Trojan's as far a holding a charge etc.?

Thanks for the additional details.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, asm283 <no_reply@...> wrote:

HI Gary

I have SM#283 I replaced my batteries with the SC 225. They fit fine but I had to have new interconect leads made. But otherwise no problems and I got a few extra amp hours.

Vito

ASM 283

Bay of Islands NZ
Re: [Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions

David Wallace
 

Richard,
On the Maramu, the mizzen mast is stepped at the level of the cockpit seat, not on the aft cabin roof as for the Mango etc. I can't get to our boat right now (it's in Mexico and we're not) but to the best of my recollection all the wires/cables go through a robust tube under the mast between the seat level and the cockpit deck level, which can be seen in the small center compartment under the aft seats. The wires/cables then come out in the center aft of the engine room, between the mizzen support struts and right at the aft bulkhead. The radar cable on our boat originally ran through the engine room to the forward bulkhead, then to starboard into the very forward end of the aft companionway, then up and over and forward to the nav station. There was a junction box on the aft bulkhead of the engine room to splice the cable.
Dave Wallaces/v Air OpsMaramu #104

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: rfmolony@gmail.com
Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2009 21:32:53 -0400
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions


























Alan,



Thanks. I will take a look.



Richard

On Sat, Jun 27, 2009 at 5:30 PM, svcharisma <svcharisma@yahoo.com> wrote:



Richard,
On my Mango, the mizzen mast wiring came out behind the mirror in the aft
head. It took me quite a while to figure this out, in fact I had already cut
the radar wires in another spot before I removed the mirror and voila. Good
luck.
Alan Spence
sv Charisma, Mango #62
Musket Cove, Fiji


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






















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Windows Live™: Keep your life in sync.
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parts and spares

dr_hofschulte
 

Hallo all of you,
thanks for the list of parts and spares for the circumnavigation. The list is perfect.
Yes Bill, it was very very helpful for me. Many thanks again. My question now:
Do you or others have any other lists also about other things, please send it.
Regards from Germany Hans-J. Johanna-Amalthea Hull 436
Re: [Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions

Richard Molony <rfmolony@...>
 

Alan,

Thanks. I will take a look.

Richard

On Sat, Jun 27, 2009 at 5:30 PM, svcharisma <svcharisma@yahoo.com> wrote:



Richard,
On my Mango, the mizzen mast wiring came out behind the mirror in the aft
head. It took me quite a while to figure this out, in fact I had already cut
the radar wires in another spot before I removed the mirror and voila. Good
luck.

Alan Spence
sv Charisma, Mango #62
Musket Cove, Fiji
Re: Trojan 200 vs Trojan 225 Batteries for Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

usrey_chuck
 

Hello Gary

After having the same problem finding exact replacements and also having premature failure of the house bank I switched over to another option. I replaced the 12 volt freedom batteries with 6 volt wet cells from Trojon. I spent a lot of time talking with the factory reps at the Trojon company and they said that because the plates of the 6 volt batteries are so much thicker that they will last much longer. Also, the AMP rating is a little over twice what you get from a 12 volt so your usable AMP hours go up a little.

I was not able to use the copper straps to tie the batteries together so I had short cables made for me and used them instead. These were easy to come by and any shop should be able to produce them. The wood bracket on the underside of the lid does a good job of holding them in place but the ones on the bottom of the compartment did have to be moved a little for everything to fit right.

I have had these wet cells onboard for a little over two years and they work great. The time between charging and discharging is almost the same as when they were new. One draw back is the need to check the water level from time to time and add some when it gets low but this has not been a big problem.

I know that there are a lot of different opinions about sticking with Amel's design and also about wet cells but for me this option has worked very well.

Best of luck
Chuck
S/V Helen Louise
ASM 350

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi everyone:
It has come time to replace my house batteries. I have no source for a Group 31 deep cycle battery with flush caps and a SS threaded stud placement that will allow me to utilize the copper tie bar between the positive and negative post for the series (24 volt) set up in my boat.

The AC Delco 1150 batteries originally fit measure 13 inches long x 6.825 inches wide x 9.5 inches tall to the top of the threaded stud and have a flush top that allows the 2x4 beam on the bottom of the bunk top to fit against the tops of the batteries:

Replacement options (i.e. available to me in Antigua) are:

1. Trojan SCS225 measuring 13.94 (almost 14 inches long) x 6.75 inches wide x 9.875 inches tall to the top of the stud

OR

2. Trojan SCS200 measuring 12.75 inches long x 6.75 inches wide x 9.75 inches tall to the top of the stud.

Neither layout of the studs will allow me to use the existing interconnect bars. I will have to have fabricated interconnect cables. Additionally I am concerned that the 2x4 hold down beam may not clear the filler caps on the top of the batteries.

Has anybody out there fitted either of these batteries to an Amel SM2000 of approximately my vintage (delivered July 2001, Hull # 335) and can tell me about their experience.

Thanks to all, Gary
[Amel] Re: Trojan 200 vs Trojan 225 Batteries for Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Giovanni,

Photo of Battery Compartment at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/702987736/pic/list

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:


Govianni,




I do not know what you mean by "it's possible to have the batteries on
board every where," and I have not needed any support, but I have seen
FullRiver sold in a number of places.



I contacted Reya (Dolphin) in France and was told that the Dolphin
24volt 100amp 220volt (24V100A) Model DOL24100/C and the Dolphin 24volt
220volt (24V30A) Model DOL2430/3 would work with AGM FullRiver GRP31
batteries.



My chargers do not have anything that can be changed. Here is the email
that I received from Reya:



From: Lucy Kelly [mailto:lucy.kelly"at"reya.com]

Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 12:38 PM

To: 'Bill Rouse'

Subject: RE: Can you tell me how to change the program of DOL24100/C and
DOL2430/3 would work with AGM Fullriver GRP31 batteries...see specs
attached.



Dear Bill,



This version of charger is good for both types of battery without
modification. Please go ahead and connect.



Best regards, Lucy.



I had to shorten some of the copper straps and cut a little piece of
mahogany because the posts on the Full River are in slightly different
location than the original batteries. I also had to use 2 or 3 pieces
of cable where the ground straps would not fit. When I was looking at
FullRiver I thought I was careful about charging parameters and all of
the measurements, but missed the different position of the posts.



I will upload photos to "Battery Compartment" today.



I do not believe that AMCar Freight delivers to Venezuela, but I assume
that DC Battery may have another solution.



Best,



Bill

s/v BeBe, SM2, #387

--
[Amel] Re: Trojan 200 vs Trojan 225 Batteries for Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Govianni,




I do not know what you mean by "it's possible to have the batteries on
board every where," and I have not needed any support, but I have seen
FullRiver sold in a number of places.



I contacted Reya (Dolphin) in France and was told that the Dolphin
24volt 100amp 220volt (24V100A) Model DOL24100/C and the Dolphin 24volt
220volt (24V30A) Model DOL2430/3 would work with AGM FullRiver GRP31
batteries.



My chargers do not have anything that can be changed. Here is the email
that I received from Reya:



From: Lucy Kelly [mailto:lucy.kelly"at"reya.com]

Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 12:38 PM

To: 'Bill Rouse'

Subject: RE: Can you tell me how to change the program of DOL24100/C and
DOL2430/3 would work with AGM Fullriver GRP31 batteries...see specs
attached.



Dear Bill,



This version of charger is good for both types of battery without
modification. Please go ahead and connect.



Best regards, Lucy.



I had to shorten some of the copper straps and cut a little piece of
mahogany because the posts on the Full River are in slightly different
location than the original batteries. I also had to use 2 or 3 pieces
of cable where the ground straps would not fit. When I was looking at
FullRiver I thought I was careful about charging parameters and all of
the measurements, but missed the different position of the posts.



I will upload photos to "Battery Compartment" today.



I do not believe that AMCar Freight delivers to Venezuela, but I assume
that DC Battery may have another solution.



Best,



Bill

s/v BeBe, SM2, #387

--
Re: "Popeye" & Questions

Alan Spence
 

Richard,
On my Mango, the mizzen mast wiring came out behind the mirror in the aft head. It took me quite a while to figure this out, in fact I had already cut the radar wires in another spot before I removed the mirror and voila. Good luck.

Alan Spence
sv Charisma, Mango #62
Musket Cove, Fiji
Re: [Amel] Re: Trojan 200 vs Trojan 225 Batteries for Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi Bill,
I' m too planning to replace batteries and to find new like the original is very difficult in the Caribbean. Now the boat is in Venezuela.
At Island Water there are DEKA G31 Deep Cycle and Dual Purpose item n A013101.
But your info about http://www.dcbattery.com is very precious.
First it's possible to have the batteries on board every where, second they offer a good support.
Now the questions, please.
- our charging system is ideal for " normal " batteries. I don't know if with AGM Fillriver you had to change something on set up because of the over charging problems with AGM.
-sizes seem good, but you had to short some of the copper straps and cut a little piece of mahogony ? Why ?
I suppose for the position and height of terminals. In the Fullriver brochure the battery in the photo shows a lateral combination of two terminals, not a unique central threated stud, better for us. Do you know if is it possible to have it like optional ?
-may we have photos of your new solution ( copper strapps and arrangement of batteries ) ?
Thanks so much for every suggestion
Best and Buon Vento
Giovanni Testa
s/v EUTIKIA SM2K n 428
VENEZIA
ITALIA

----- Original Message -----
From: svbebe
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2009 12:21 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Trojan 200 vs Trojan 225 Batteries for Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335





Gary,

DC Battery in Miami http://www.dcbattery.com shipped 13 batteries to us while we were in Bonaire via AmCar Freight services. I am not sure if AmCar serves Antigua. The transit time was about a week and the pallet was delivered to the dock alongside our boat. The delivery driver even handed each battery over the rail to me. Total freight cost about $260.00.

We bought Fillriver Group31's from them. They fit well...modifications included shortening some of the copper straps and cutting 2 notches in the 2" deminsion piece of mahogony under the battery compartment lid. I had not planned on cutting this and you should consider this in your measurements.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2 #387
Mackay Australia

So far the 110 amp Fullriver Grp31's have performed well.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
>
> Hi everyone:
> It has come time to replace my house batteries. I have no source for a Group 31 deep cycle battery with flush caps and a SS threaded stud placement that will allow me to utilize the copper tie bar between the positive and negative post for the series (24 volt) set up in my boat.
>
> The AC Delco 1150 batteries originally fit measure 13 inches long x 6.825 inches wide x 9.5 inches tall to the top of the threaded stud and have a flush top that allows the 2x4 beam on the bottom of the bunk top to fit against the tops of the batteries:
>
> Replacement options (i.e. available to me in Antigua) are:
>
> 1. Trojan SCS225 measuring 13.94 (almost 14 inches long) x 6.75 inches wide x 9.875 inches tall to the top of the stud
>
> OR
>
> 2. Trojan SCS200 measuring 12.75 inches long x 6.75 inches wide x 9.75 inches tall to the top of the stud.
>
> Neither layout of the studs will allow me to use the existing interconnect bars. I will have to have fabricated interconnect cables. Additionally I am concerned that the 2x4 hold down beam may not clear the filler caps on the top of the batteries.
>
> Has anybody out there fitted either of these batteries to an Amel SM2000 of approximately my vintage (delivered July 2001, Hull # 335) and can tell me about their experience.
>
> Thanks to all, Gary
>






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Re: [Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions

Richard Molony <rfmolony@...>
 

Bill,

Fortunately, in this context, Popeye has a 12v system.

Enjoy the tidal range in Mackay!

Richard

On Fri, Jun 26, 2009 at 1:42 AM, svbebe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:



-Richard,

LEDOnline recommends using a power conditioner for 24 volt systems. Did you
do this? About 2 years ago I bought some LED mast lights (tricolor and
anchor) from LEDonline. They cost about $50 each and lasted about 1 year. I
am assuming because of what they say on their website:

"Despite the advances we've made with driving LED's properly at 12vDC we
still experience some problems on charging 24vDC systems. This is due to the
voltage range of the drivers we use in our bulbs. LEDs are current "driven"
and not voltage "driven."
The maximum range achievable right now for quality small current based
drivers is 30 vDC. Using 12v DC, voltages can reach as high as 15.5v. This
is only half the rated voltage of the 8~30vDC driver.
When we use 24v however - charging voltages can reach 28.8v or even higher
if the regulator on the 24v system is not set properly.
This is so very close to the maximum operating voltage of our drivers that
we can experience failures sometimes. For that reason we now recommend using
a power conditioner on 24v lighting systems."

Best,

Bill
s/v Bebe, SM2, #387
Currently Mackay Australia
[Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions

ladyannila <kanalmamman@...>
 

I think the question was to me :)

We have bought the sensibulb, they have it on the entrance page rigth now.

/Annsofie
S/Y Lady Annila

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi,

Did you purchase light bulbs or entire fixtures?

I did not see the bulbs on the website.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2009 4:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions








Hi Ann-Sophie
Would you please comment on the characteristics of the light in your boat
since switching to LEDs.
- are the bulbs as bright?
- is the color of the light pleasing or stark
- is the light directional or flood like?
thanks , Gary

In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "ladyannila" <kanalmamman@> wrote:

Hi Richard
and welcome to the Amel Group
your two first issiues I hope some one else can help you with. We have
also changed to LED almost every where in the boat. We bought ours from
www.sailorssolution.com I can realy recommend them, very service minded and
by now they know all about electricity on an Amel

Regards
Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila #232


--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "rfmolony" <rfmolony@> wrote:

Gentlemen, (and Ladies)

I have purchased "Popeye", Amel Maramu Hull 91 from Bill Klein. She is
currently lying in the Anclote River, Tarpon Springs in Florida.

So now instead of Bill's good advice, you are getting my not so informed
questions. Any help would be appreciated.

1. I need to replace the bulb in the cockpit/hardtop light. I have
removed the two small screws from the glass, but despite prising and
twisting have got no further. This may be another intelligence test I just
failed.

2. I will be pulling the masts to replace the (original) standing
rigging. Where does one disconnect the electrical connection to the radar at
the base of the mizzen mast? I have looked in the aft part of the engine
compartment but can't see if and where the tube from the base of the mast
then goes, and there appears to be no access from the aft head area. Also,
is there any magic involved with the main mast, apart from disconnecting the
wires in the overhead breaker panel outside the for'd head?

3. Does anyone know a US source for the (very) small propane gas
cylinders used on the Maramu?

4. I have replaced all of the interior light bulbs with LEDs, and was
looking to replace those in the nav, anchor and steaming lights as well, for
the current saving. The Australian source I used does not have 22mm base
bulbs, only 15mm. Does anyone know of a US or European source for such LEDs?

Respectfully,

Richard Molony
Maramu #91 "Popeye"




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: "Popeye" & Questions

ladyannila <kanalmamman@...>
 

It is equal to an 10-15 W halogen bulb. Both in warmth and britghtness.

/Ann-Sofie

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi Ann-Sophie
Would you please comment on the characteristics of the light in your boat since switching to LEDs.
- are the bulbs as bright?
- is the color of the light pleasing or stark
- is the light directional or flood like?
thanks , Gary


In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "ladyannila" <kanalmamman@> wrote:

Hi Richard
and welcome to the Amel Group
your two first issiues I hope some one else can help you with. We have also changed to LED almost every where in the boat. We bought ours from www.sailorssolution.com I can realy recommend them, very service minded and by now they know all about electricity on an Amel

Regards
Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila #232


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "rfmolony" <rfmolony@> wrote:

Gentlemen, (and Ladies)

I have purchased "Popeye", Amel Maramu Hull 91 from Bill Klein. She is currently lying in the Anclote River, Tarpon Springs in Florida.

So now instead of Bill's good advice, you are getting my not so informed questions. Any help would be appreciated.

1. I need to replace the bulb in the cockpit/hardtop light. I have removed the two small screws from the glass, but despite prising and twisting have got no further. This may be another intelligence test I just failed.

2. I will be pulling the masts to replace the (original) standing rigging. Where does one disconnect the electrical connection to the radar at the base of the mizzen mast? I have looked in the aft part of the engine compartment but can't see if and where the tube from the base of the mast then goes, and there appears to be no access from the aft head area. Also, is there any magic involved with the main mast, apart from disconnecting the wires in the overhead breaker panel outside the for'd head?

3. Does anyone know a US source for the (very) small propane gas cylinders used on the Maramu?

4. I have replaced all of the interior light bulbs with LEDs, and was looking to replace those in the nav, anchor and steaming lights as well, for the current saving. The Australian source I used does not have 22mm base bulbs, only 15mm. Does anyone know of a US or European source for such LEDs?

Respectfully,

Richard Molony
Maramu #91 "Popeye"
Re: [Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions

Richard Molony <rfmolony@...>
 

Joel,

Thanks. I will try and get additional propane tanks the same as I have
currently. There are two spares on board but they are corroded, and I'm
chicken when it comes to propane tanks.

I spent a couple of hours with Peter Grimm going over all of the sails,
and he certainly looked after me and gave good advice. Thank you for
pointing me in his direction. I should be going down to pick op those that
needed repair shortly. The larger of the two genoas is LARGE (the smaller
was set for the trip South) and probably not going to see much use on a
downwind run, the pole appearing to be too short to keep it under control or
fully spread when wing-a-wing. That's what the spinnaker is for.

Richard

On Thu, Jun 25, 2009 at 4:33 PM, Joel Potter <jfpottercys@att.net> wrote:



Hi Richard, Popeye has been well owned and you will find that boat to be
less problematic than similarly aged vessels.
I can't remember where the wire parting section for the mizzen is exactly
other than to tell you if you follow the wires from the base of the mizzen
mast you will discover the place where they are joined. I have taken the
masts off several Maramus and can't remember the mizzen details other than
to say that it is not mysterious. I am sure that a Maramu owner will come
up
on the site here with the info.
Maramus were originally equipped with Campgaz/Butagaz cylinders containing
butane, not propane. You can use an individual 5lbs. U.S.A. standard steel
vertical cylinder in that tiny locker just outboard of the galley if you
cut
a small V-shaped notch in the top of the carry handle that is integral to
the tank. Don't worry, just precisely where to cut the notch will be very
obvious when you try to put the cylinder in the locker. A better solution
is
to employ the locker on the aft deck or to install a container on the stern
rails to carry larger aluminum alloy tanks which are worth the hefty
premium
to purchase them as they last nearly forever unlike the short lived steel
cylinders. The standard warning about a perfect installation as propane is
heavier than air and will take you and the boat to smithereens if propane
escapes and accumulates in the interior. Be careful to be sure of the
absolute integrity of the entire system.
Did Peter Grimm take good care of your sail updates?

All the best,
Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC
Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas
Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126
Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301
Phone: (954) 462-5869 Fax: (954) 462-3923
Email: jfpottercys@att.net <jfpottercys%40att.net>
Re: [Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions

Richard Molony <rfmolony@...>
 

Eric,

Thanks for the information. I'll take a look and see if the Maramu works
that way as well.

Richard

On Thu, Jun 25, 2009 at 11:30 PM, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>wrote:



Hi Richard:

Thanks for the reply about the LED lights.

I have a 2001 Super Maramu but perhaps regarding the following there are
some
similarities to you Maramu:

You wrote

" 2. I will be pulling the masts to replace the (original) standing
rigging. Where does one disconnect the electrical connection to the radar
at
the base of the mizzen mast? I have looked in the aft part of the engine
compartment but can't see if and where the tube from the base of the mast
then goes, and there appears to be no access from the aft head area. Also,
is there any magic involved with the main mast, apart from disconnecting
the
wires in the overhead breaker panel outside the for'd head?"

On my Super Maramu there are 2 panels for the main mast wiring. One is
above the companionway to the forward cabin abeam the forward head as
well as in the head above the shower head. Both areas contain wiring for
the main mast.

For the mizzen there is a panel in the aft head just to starboard of the
mirror and sink where the wiring enters. This panel is secured with a
single screw and held in place on several sides by trim pieces of wood.
The wires pass through a wire chase that traverses horizontally to
starboard
just above the aft cabin door and is just below the small portlight on the
forward starboard cockpit area just above the starboard cockpit locker.

Hope that makes sense and might be of some help.

Gary
[Amel] Re: "Popeye" & Questions

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

-Richard,

LEDOnline recommends using a power conditioner for 24 volt systems. Did you do this? About 2 years ago I bought some LED mast lights (tricolor and anchor) from LEDonline. They cost about $50 each and lasted about 1 year. I am assuming because of what they say on their website:

"Despite the advances we've made with driving LED's properly at 12vDC we still experience some problems on charging 24vDC systems. This is due to the voltage range of the drivers we use in our bulbs. LEDs are current "driven" and not voltage "driven."
The maximum range achievable right now for quality small current based drivers is 30 vDC. Using 12v DC, voltages can reach as high as 15.5v. This is only half the rated voltage of the 8~30vDC driver.
When we use 24v however - charging voltages can reach 28.8v or even higher if the regulator on the 24v system is not set properly.
This is so very close to the maximum operating voltage of our drivers that we can experience failures sometimes. For that reason we now recommend using a power conditioner on 24v lighting systems."


Best,

Bill
s/v Bebe, SM2, #387
Currently Mackay Australia
58081 - 58100 of 63319