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Re: sm 53 vs 54
I have no experience of earlier Amels but my 54 which is hull 019 is a good boat without too many problems. The Volvo 110 runs sweet. The only problem so far was the Turbo boost pressure sensor that failed year 11. It was a simple swap for new in Martinique. About 350 euros. Although it took a while to diagnose the problem.
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I did replace the 175a alternator and have had a bit of dust from the twin belts, but I realigned it last year so fingers crossed. The Bamar furler for the genoa is a bit undersized but if one de powers the sail it is fine. One must not reef under load, so ease the sheet enough to be able to reef and then sheet in. I like the layout, the aft cabin is gorgeous. My only complaint is the slap under the counter which can be noisy in the aft cabin whilst in bed but not at anchor in my experience, mostly in harbour. In light winds she will go if well trimmed. In stronger winds she is great and with a bit of beam aft can really carry sail on a broad reach. She can do 200 miles a day. She is a big comfortable mile eater. I think that compared to the 53 she is slightly closer winded and a bit faster due to her waterline length and sail area displacement ratio. Slightly bigger boat with more volume, but apparently less storage. In my opinion there is tons of storage.... She is also easy on the eye in my opinion. Amelia Amel 54-019 Kilada Greece
On 3 Jul 2020, at 06:20, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:
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Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)
Jamie, I wish I was on your 54 with you because I have a burning question about all of this. and I have a recommendation for you. My burning question: If you see the schematic in my previous post in this thread, you will notice the schematic from a Frigoboat manual. The source of the voltage output from the E51385 blue box to the water pump originates in this schematic with each of the Danfoss Compressor Controllers at the F terminal. In fact, the two wires for each fridge unit come directly from the Danfoss to the E51385. The Frigoboat manual clearly states, regardless of the voltage of the fridge the output on the two F terminals is 12 volts. BTW, the Danfoss operates on 12 or 24 volts, but always outputs 12 volts to Terminal F. Have you checked the output voltage on each of the Danfoss on terminal F and the terminal next to it? I do not see any other way that the E51385 blue box can output 24 volts and if there is 24 volts on the Danfoss fan terminals, I suspect something is wrong with the Danfoss. My recommendation: Why don't you do this eliminating the E51385 and eliminate the limitation on amps on the Danfoss terminal F, and run a 24-volt pump??:
On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 2:02 PM Jamie Wendell <mysticshadow54@...> wrote: OK, my "final" update on the Flojet pump and Frigoboat E51385 interface. I cannot explain it, but the interface is definitely out-putting 24 volts to the pump at all times.
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Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)
Jamie Wendell
OK, my "final" update on the Flojet pump and Frigoboat E51385 interface. I cannot explain it, but the interface is definitely out-putting 24 volts to the pump at all times.
Maybe my interface is malfunctioning, so I installed a solid-state relay and a DC converter to step the voltage down to 12 volts. I used a 24-volt relay in place of the E51385 pump connection and then feed the converter and pump via the live 24-volt terminal box in the engine room. The relay simply engages the pump when the compressors call for it. A bit more complicated than I would like but the pump runs perfectly now and obviously I no longer get the pump overload signals at the interface. The higher capacity pump may draw more power, but it really cools down the 3 refrigerator units fast. My next task is to get the brushless motor working to replace the Flojet motor. I will drive it directly via the 24-volt terminal block and eliminate the DC converter. Until then I am "over and out" regarding this perplexing issue with the E51385. I really appreciate all the suggestions and assistance, but will report once I have the brushless motor controller operational. That will be the gold standard. Jamie Phantom, A54 #44
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Bamar EJF Furler
amel46met
Hello Group
Tom Deasy APHRODITE Maramu 1983 #125 I am having a problem with my electric furler, four years old and several thousand miles.It will unroll about 2 feet and stop it will not roll back up. Is it possible for me to disassemble to see the problem could it be the brushes or possibly corrosion with the paws or the electrical brake system any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Tom Deasy
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Re: crappy job ahead of me....... santorin waste pipe
Hi Eric,
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Sounds like you have a perfectly good system that just needs repair, so I’m not advocating this for you but just thought I would take this opportunity to share my experiences with a composting toilet. I do think Craig is right, in that our Santorin had no stock holding tanks. There is a small tank for the aft head located in the life raft locker and no tank forward in the forward head. After converting a typically troublesome and odorous holding tank system on my Newport 41 a few years ago to a composting toilet and finding it works remarkably well and is infinitely preferable to a standard tank, I lugged an Airhead composting toilet to Greece last summer to install on Liesse. I didn’t get around to it so it’s sitting in the lazarette at the moment waiting to be installed in the forward head but if not for a lack of headroom it could actually be used back there! I have found the composting toilet to be odor free, easy to clean and maintain, and my only criticism is that when heeling it is difficult to keep urine from running around the little dam into the solids container. It’s amazingly comforting to know the you will ALWAYS have a functional head! We’re heading to Turkey when it’s possible and not sure how they will view the composting toilet in their blue card scheme... Good luck w the repair. Dave Bruce Liesse SN006
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Re: sm 53 vs 54
james Hosford
Absolutely. And that was just the point of the question wanted to hear the opinions of owners and why they have those opinions. Thank you so much, this whole group is such a great value to those of us considering our purchase options and even greater value to current owners
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On Jul 3, 2020, at 11:49 AM, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
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Re: sm 53 vs 54
Mohammad Shirloo
We had the read the same issues raised about Volvo in the 54, prior to our purchase. Upon further research and discussions with people who know the actual number of 54s that have had issues with their Volvo, it was our conclusion that statistically, the percentage of serious issues, were low. Also, we figured that in the worst case scenario, we could repower with a new engine and the advantages and extra comforts of the 54 were worth the potential risk.
In our 5 years of cruising, we have not had any issues, other than normal maintenance and the Volvo has been very reliable. When we started to search for a cruising boat and in the 4 year process that ended up in the selection of the 54, we would not have imagined selecting a boat that we would be as impressed with as we are today. She continues to show her talents more and more as we have more time on board.
As everyone has reiterated, most of these decisions are personal and very much dependent on importance of the differences in the designs.
Happy Sailing;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo AMEL 54 #099
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of james Hosford via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2020 8:31 AM To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] sm 53 vs 54
Thanks for your reply
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Re: crappy job ahead of me....... santorin waste pipe
Hi Eric,
I don't believe Amel put holding tanks in SN's so, like ours, yours was likely done by a prior owner. (Just the forward was done when we got our boat - I later did a 2nd tank in the aft head.) From your question it sounds like your tank is behind the outboard panel with the openings for the storage shelf. If so, removal of the wall would depend on how whoever installed the tank did it in the first place. On mine, it requires removal of the sink wood crossmembers for the towel rack, the medicine cabinet, plus some perimeter trim, then reaching inside the cubby openingings to remove a few screws. Not too difficult. The tank simply sits on one of the original shelves and the plumbing is readily accessible once the panel is off. I redid mine with PVC which I'd highly recommend for a multi-decade no-odor fix. That being said, I recall several posts of other SN owners installing tanks in various other positions, like under the towel bars. What's the configuration on your SN? Craig PS I forgot to mention the original panel was fiberglassed to the shelves, so that has to be cut open the first time the panel is removed. Upon replacing, use wood blocks and screws to fasten it. A FINE Multi-tool or equivalent will cut the fiberglass tabbing nicely.
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Re: sm 53 vs 54
james Hosford
Thanks for your reply
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On Jul 3, 2020, at 12:20 AM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:
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Re: Skarki Headspace / Celing Height
marklesparkle59
Hi Ros, I am about 1735mm tall, I have spare height in the heads and aft cabin and I touch the ceiling in the forecabin, I do have 5mm of insulation stuck to the ceilings which most Sharki''s don't have. I might be able to measure next week. Mark Porter Sea Hobo Sharki 96 Cargreen UK Sent from my Samsung device
-------- Original message -------- From: Ros Corcoran <roscorcoran@...> Date: 03/07/2020 12:54 (GMT+00:00) To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Skarki Headspace / Celing Height Hi Guys, I am late to the party but I have the same questions as MATTHIAS, thank you very much for the already very useful measurements. I am wondering the headroom in the head and also in the aft cabin and forward cabin? I find it hard to measure those heights from the PDF. Thank you
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Re: Skarki Headspace / Celing Height
Gerhard Mueller
The headroom in the head is 180 centimeter and in the aft cabin is 160 centimeter and forward cabin is 184 centimeter.
All measured at highest places. -- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
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Re: crappy job ahead of me....... santorin waste pipe
Hi Eric, We have been wrestling with holding tank issues for years, latest these past few months. There are numerous posts (maybe 300) on these issues on the bulletin board going back over the past 15 years. Some of which may be relevant to you. Take the time to understand the holding tank configuration you have and evolve you plan of attack after reading the relevant postings. This is a repair you would prefer to make once and be permanent. Your hull number would be useful to others who may offer advice. I would suggest removing the deck plate and taking a look inside your tank to understand its internal condition before doing anything. I did this at night and hung a light inside so I could see well and took some pictures. Mike Ondra ALETES SM#240, Rock Hall, MD
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Eric Meury
Sent: Friday, July 3, 2020 7:13 AM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] crappy job ahead of me....... santorin waste pipe
well i have some crappy news...turns out my holding tank pipe is leaking. It is not the hose clamps. What are my options here..this is a santorin. Removal of the wall is pretty straight fwd i believe.
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Re: Skarki Headspace / Celing Height
Ros Corcoran <roscorcoran@...>
Hi Guys,
I am late to the party but I have the same questions as MATTHIAS, thank you very much for the already very useful measurements. I am wondering the headroom in the head and also in the aft cabin and forward cabin? I find it hard to measure those heights from the PDF. Thank you
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Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)
My response in red: Jamie, Your 12V pump is looking for about 4A supply at 12V according to its specs. The system is designed to operate with a pump supply current of 1- 1.2A at 12V. I suspect you have damaged your 51385 module. I don't think so. It is the Danfoss Compressor controller that has the limit. If you have an LED alarm you will get 2 Blinks with "Excessive load on fan terminals, above 0.7amps." Remember the voltage for the 51385 comes from the Danfoss Compressor controller. See schematic below with 1 Danfoss circled and also snips from the manual : Did you ever connect a different 12V pump from the specified pump by Frigidaire ? Maybe your 51385 is also fried. Above Arno, I agree with your description. Jamie, I suggest to buy the correct pump, and with a 'working' 51385 (operating at 12V) everything should be fine. Agree Using the correct 24V pump, the pump is safe under fault conditions, so you won't damage the pump if the voltage regulation on the 51385 fails. The 24V pump operates on a lighter duty than a 12V pump operating at full tilt. This extends its life and makes it quieter. Just need to be careful with specs about the pumps. Veco rebadge the Flojet 24V pump as a '12V pump' for continuous duty at half the flow rate. This can be very confusing when discussing the pump, or trying to replace it with a different one. Agree
On Thu, Jul 2, 2020 at 9:04 PM Dean Gillies <stella@...> wrote: Jamie,
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crappy job ahead of me....... santorin waste pipe
Eric Meury
well i have some crappy news...turns out my holding tank pipe is leaking. It is not the hose clamps. What are my options here...this is a santorin. Removal of the wall is pretty straight fwd i believe.
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Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)
Porter McRoberts
My controller also only puts out 24v. So I use 24v pumps only. And the controllers are no longer available says costal climate. But... pretty easy to build a 3 solenoid relay and a step down converter 24v-12v. That’s all that controller is. It would cost pennies.
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Anyone done something similar? On a separate note, what’s broken in the controller? Is there a manual override to force 12v? Could it be rewired? Fixed? Anyone taken one apart? Lastly, just step down the 24v to 12v? 12v to a 24v pump would surely improve longevity Some thoughts on this vexing problem. Porter A54-152 IBIS Excuse the errors. Sent from my IPhone Www.fouribis.net
On Jul 2, 2020, at 10:04 PM, Dean Gillies <stella@soundthinking.com.au> wrote:
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Re: sm 53 vs 54
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi all. After 10 years and 50,000 + off shore miles in Ocean Pearl SM 299 I thought strongly and seriously about stepping up to a 54. However I was put off by following the posts on this site It seemed I would be buying trouble. While I had positive experience of 20 years with volvo the 110hp volvo in the 54 seemed a serious problem. The bamar furlers another issue Likewise the multitude of electrical and electronic issues. Also although I could possibly have avoided them, the number of 54 that had electronic and electrical upgrades concerned me. Complexity is an archilies heel in a yacht that cruises the more far flung regions. Rightly or wrongly I felt that many of these 54s were being converted into marina hopping med or Caribbean vessels Lastly, after considering all this I returned to my belief that in the SM, which was the culmination of a life dedicated to designing the perfect yacht for a couple to sail around the world, Henry had indeed done just that. So I remain the proud and happy owner of SM 299. Danny Ocean Pearl Mangonui New Zealand
On 03 July 2020 at 10:11 Trevor Lusty <trevlusty@...> wrote:
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Re: sm 53 vs 54
Porter McRoberts
Search Karen Smith’s write up on the comparison. They sail a SM and recently did a delivery of a 54. Here it is actually Either way you’re on one of the finest monohulls on the ocean. After sailing US to NZ I wouldn’t have any other boat. Except for a SM. Porter McRoberts A54-152 Excuse the errors. Sent from my IPhone Www.fouribis.net
On Jul 2, 2020, at 3:07 PM, james Hosford via groups.io <jay.hosford@...> wrote:
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Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)
Jamie,
Your 12V pump is looking for about 4A supply at 12V according to its specs. The system is designed to operate with a pump supply current of 1- 1.2A at 12V. I suspect you have damaged your 51385 module. Scott, Did you ever connect a different 12V pump from the specified pump by Frigidaire ? Maybe your 51385 is also fried. Arno, I agree with your description. Jamie, I suggest to buy the correct pump, and with a 'working' 51385 (operating at 12V) everything should be fine. Using the correct 24V pump, the pump is safe under fault conditions, so you won't damage the pump if the voltage regulation on the 51385 fails. The 24V pump operates on a lighter duty than a 12V pump operating at full tilt. This extends its life and makes it quieter. Just need to be careful with specs about the pumps. Veco rebadge the Flojet 24V pump as a '12V pump' for continuous duty at half the flow rate. This can be very confusing when discussing the pump, or trying to replace it with a different one. Fun and games indeed! Dean Sent from my iPhone X
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Re: sm 53 vs 54
eric freedman
On July 2, 2020 at 9:32 PM eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:
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