On 6/07/2020, at 12:13 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:



Hi Ken and Iris,

Thanks for the clarification.  It's helpful.  Also, I note that Ken from Aquarius recommended grease to lubricate the furler, but you are recommending oil.  Is the choice a matter of preference or what?  Thanks again for your help.  

Regards

Bill Shaproski

On Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 3:35 PM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill.

Yes, I'm referring to the manual furler that the winch handle goes in.

I don't know how you could add oil with it in place. Mine had never been serviced, and hearing about the shearing off of the foil, I wanted to remove it to check that anyway.  Mine had holes that were elongated to about 15mm, so I cut it off and drilled new holes.

There was still oil in the gearbox, but only a cup or so, and it was black.  After dismantling it and cleaning it up, I reassembled it and with it lying on the bench with the opening where the drive shaft goes in facing up, I poured in the oil and then finished assembling.

Hope that helps,

Kent

On Jun 30, 2020 2:24 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:

Hi Kent and Iris,

Thanks much for the info.  I just want to confirm that when you say you serviced the manual furler you are referring to the unit at the bottom of the main sail where you insert the winch handle to manually furl or unfurl the main when the electric system has failed.  If yes, were you able to lubricate the inside of the unit with the unit in place. If so, how was this accomplished?  I reviewed a YouTube video from Ken on Aquarius where he explains how to completely rebuild the unit which looks reasonably challenging.  So if there's a way to lube it without disassembly I'd prefer that.  

Thanks for your interest.

Regards

Bill Shaproski

Pacific Cool  

On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 8:00 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill.

I just serviced my manual furler for the main. It is filled with a very heavy gear oil.  I found only one place (in England) that sold it by the liter, otherwise it is sold in very large quantities and is very expensive. It was shipped to me in the USA in about a week at a reasonable price. A liter is enough to service it 2-3 times.

 It is Shell Oil Omala S4 WE320

https://www.lubefinder.com/shell-omala-s4-we-320.html

After reinstalling it there was a small amount of oil on the deck the next day or two. It stopped leaking after a few days and hasn't been leaking for two weeks including furling and unfurling several times.

What specifically did you want to know?

Kent & Iris

SM243

Kristy

On Jun 18, 2020 9:00 AM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:

I did find a group of messages from 2012 that address my question.  But I would like to find someone who has done this recently to ask some specific questions.  
Regards,
Bill Shaproski

--

Bill Shaproski

Cell:  +1-206-375-2787

--

Bill Shaproski

Cell:  +1-206-375-2787

On Jul 5, 2020, at 7:34 PM, Gary Wells <gary@...> wrote:

My wife and I were faced with a fairly similar decision when we were weighing the money vs. size vs. age vs. condition of a Maramu and a Mango and a Super Maramu.

Between the three there was over $100k difference in pricing so we just studied and studied and visited and made estimates of refit and operating costs and it seemed to never get any simpler.

Finally we decided on the super Maramu and I can truly say I think we made the right call.  Each if the boats had it's merits and detractors but after our first year in the SM it became apparent that we did the best ~for us~.

I totally agree with all the posters who say that it's be hard to give up this boat for another, regardless up up/down scale and comparative factors because we are so heavily invested in having learned, tweaked, adjusted and discovered all the ups and downs of the boat we have.

My only comparison has been to sit and share time 54 owners.  Of course it's natural to compare notes and that's pretty much the end of objectivity right there. One 54 owner Bates the flush-top deck lockers lockers because they leak. Mine are raised and don't leak .. but the reason they went to flush is because you can trip on them. 
I love out handhold-to-handhold movement below deck. On another (older) SM my wife nearly took a fall on the companionway reaching for an expected handhold that hadn't been invented yet on that boat.
The 54's hard top is a great advantage .. unless you like flipping the canvas down for the air.
And yes, I'd love the extra speed, extra foresail, different stateroom layout and newer gadgetry on a 54, but I'm also really happy with what I am familiar with; and from what I  hear, a smidge less.comexity and easier access to some mechanicals on the SM.

It's just got to come down to your evaluation of wants and needs.  I've done a fair amount of single handing on a Super Maramu and it's easy enough. The 54 I conceptually the same so I can't see how it's be any different.  Crew accommodation is excellent on both, maybe the 54 has an edge with more hatches when it's miserably calm somewhere, but then .. more chances for leaky gaskets.  You see what I'm driving at :)
Hope you have a great "hunt" and eventually find the "one" that fits best.

Gary W

SM 209, Adagio
Deltaville, VA USA

Il giorno 05 lug 2020, alle ore 21:30, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> ha scritto:

Did your mechanic Isolate the 12-volt negative? 

	CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School +1 832-380-4970 | brouse@... Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550  Website: www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com

View My Training Calendar

On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 1:10 PM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Marco,

Are you still using the AutoProp H6 with the new engine?  If yes, did you have it modified in any way?

Thanks,

Kent

SM 243

Kristy

On Jul 5, 2020 1:18 PM, Marco Mancini <marcomancini61@...> wrote:

dears,

the TMD22 with the mechanical gearbox (2,8 reduction factor) and the autoprop h6 was probably  never reached in our 20 years of SM  more than 2500 2600 rpm ,

The TMD22 engine characteristic curve show that the 78 hp ( the max power) is obtained at 3500 - 4200 rpm  but at 2500 the curve show 40 hp and the boat has never reached more than 7.5 knots 

Now we have moved to the yanmar 110 cv,  the new version of the yanmar 100) with gearbox with 2.3 rduction factor   (midway betwenn the 1.97 of amel 54 with 110 volvo and  2.8 of the yanmar 100 )  that is  the new version  of the well known  Yanmar 100 cv  installed by Amel  after the TMD22. In Italy due to a severe restrictions of  omologation certificate we had also to afford the cost of new homologation certificate but we hare happy with this change . indeed the boat seems to go much better, it has a cruise speed of 8,5  at 2300 rpm over 3200rpm ( max engine regime)  and also in the manoeuvres she is more prompt than before . 

cheers and good wind . 

marco mancini 

SM 304 

Il giorno 25 giu 2020, alle ore 16:55, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> ha scritto:

This is question without a definitive answer. 

We also have the TMD22. When we bought our boat (about 4 years used), we could get almost 3,000 rpm at max throttle. Our local diesel guy suggested cruising at 80% of max, or 2,400. Our max started to lessen within about a year. 

Ever since then, we have usually not been able to max out at 3,000. Usually max is 2,400 to 2,600, so we cruise at 80% of that.

Issues affecting max cruise rpm include bottom, prop (even one barnacle can make a difference), turbo condition, and countless others. 

I suppose that, just like me, the Volvo has also lost a little mojo as it has aged. 

Tom Peacock

SM 240 Aletes

Chesapeake Bay

with its tiny keyboard

On Jun 25, 2020, at 10:10 AM, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:

Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain

Il giorno 05 lug 2020, alle ore 20:09, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> ha scritto:

Hi Marco,

Are you still using the AutoProp H6 with the new engine?  If yes, did you have it modified in any way?

Thanks,

Kent

SM 243

Kristy

On Jul 5, 2020 1:18 PM, Marco Mancini <marcomancini61@...> wrote:

dears,

the TMD22 with the mechanical gearbox (2,8 reduction factor) and the autoprop h6 was probably  never reached in our 20 years of SM  more than 2500 2600 rpm ,

The TMD22 engine characteristic curve show that the 78 hp ( the max power) is obtained at 3500 - 4200 rpm  but at 2500 the curve show 40 hp and the boat has never reached more than 7.5 knots 

Now we have moved to the yanmar 110 cv,  the new version of the yanmar 100) with gearbox with 2.3 rduction factor   (midway betwenn the 1.97 of amel 54 with 110 volvo and  2.8 of the yanmar 100 )  that is  the new version  of the well known  Yanmar 100 cv  installed by Amel  after the TMD22. In Italy due to a severe restrictions of  omologation certificate we had also to afford the cost of new homologation certificate but we hare happy with this change . indeed the boat seems to go much better, it has a cruise speed of 8,5  at 2300 rpm over 3200rpm ( max engine regime)  and also in the manoeuvres she is more prompt than before . 

cheers and good wind . 

marco mancini 

SM 304 

Il giorno 25 giu 2020, alle ore 16:55, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> ha scritto:

This is question without a definitive answer. 

We also have the TMD22. When we bought our boat (about 4 years used), we could get almost 3,000 rpm at max throttle. Our local diesel guy suggested cruising at 80% of max, or 2,400. Our max started to lessen within about a year. 

Ever since then, we have usually not been able to max out at 3,000. Usually max is 2,400 to 2,600, so we cruise at 80% of that.

Issues affecting max cruise rpm include bottom, prop (even one barnacle can make a difference), turbo condition, and countless others. 

I suppose that, just like me, the Volvo has also lost a little mojo as it has aged. 

Tom Peacock

SM 240 Aletes

Chesapeake Bay

with its tiny keyboard

On Jun 25, 2020, at 10:10 AM, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:

Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain

Barry, I was reading this thread and saw your comment about the "Slap Silencer." You noted it was online, but where?
I have this problem with my 54, but mostly have become numb to the slapping in the aft cabin. The boat came with a very heavy canvas in a bag, and I suspect that is what it is for, but I have never tried it.
Can you provide more details about your solution? Is my bag carrying the right thing, and if so how do I use it?
Thanks,
Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44

Il giorno 25 giu 2020, alle ore 16:55, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> ha scritto:

This is question without a definitive answer. 

We also have the TMD22. When we bought our boat (about 4 years used), we could get almost 3,000 rpm at max throttle. Our local diesel guy suggested cruising at 80% of max, or 2,400. Our max started to lessen within about a year. 

Ever since then, we have usually not been able to max out at 3,000. Usually max is 2,400 to 2,600, so we cruise at 80% of that.

Issues affecting max cruise rpm include bottom, prop (even one barnacle can make a difference), turbo condition, and countless others. 

I suppose that, just like me, the Volvo has also lost a little mojo as it has aged. 

Tom Peacock

SM 240 Aletes

Chesapeake Bay

with its tiny keyboard

On Jun 25, 2020, at 10:10 AM, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:

Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain

On July 5, 2020 at 4:47 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

STOP LEAVER

On July 5, 2020 at 4:47 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

You might note a very small voltage drop at the positive valeo stud .5 volts as the electric goes through a diode first.
You should get about 12 volts here when the key is turned. If you keep the top leaver depressed you can keep the key in the start position for a bit

On July 5, 2020 at 4:42 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

The negative attachment is on the big stud to the left. The Positive for the meter is the stud on the valeo with the orange and blue wire (start and stop) note there is a small black wire sneaking behind the Valeo connected to the battery stud connection--that is the negative connection that actuates the solenoid-- always connected to the battery

On July 5, 2020 at 3:25 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376

Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.

On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Tom,

 

In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid

 

To,

Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.

Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?

If you are able to start the engine then try the following.

Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.

 

If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.

 

The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.

Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.

It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.

 

That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x. 

 

I would love to know what you find.

The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.

 

If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.

It could be an internal connection.  It is a great spare to have.

 

The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.

The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button

Where are you located?

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376

 

Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.

somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite. 

 

 

 

On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On July 5, 2020 at 4:47 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

You might note a very small voltage drop at the positive valeo stud .5 volts as the electric goes through a diode first.
You should get about 12 volts here when the key is turned. If you keep the top leaver depressed you can keep the key in the start position for a bit

On July 5, 2020 at 4:42 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

The negative attachment is on the big stud to the left. The Positive for the meter is the stud on the valeo with the orange and blue wire (start and stop) note there is a small black wire sneaking behind the Valeo connected to the battery stud connection--that is the negative connection that actuates the solenoid-- always connected to the battery

On July 5, 2020 at 3:25 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376

Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.

On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Tom,

 

In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid

 

To,

Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.

Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?

If you are able to start the engine then try the following.

Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.

 

If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.

 

The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.

Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.

It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.

 

That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x. 

 

I would love to know what you find.

The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.

 

If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.

It could be an internal connection.  It is a great spare to have.

 

The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.

The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button

Where are you located?

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376

 

Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.

somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite. 

 

 

 

On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On July 5, 2020 at 4:42 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

The negative attachment is on the big stud to the left. The Positive for the meter is the stud on the valeo with the orange and blue wire (start and stop) note there is a small black wire sneaking behind the Valeo connected to the battery stud connection--that is the negative connection that actuates the solenoid-- always connected to the battery

On July 5, 2020 at 3:25 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376

Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.

On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Tom,

 

In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid

 

To,

Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.

Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?

If you are able to start the engine then try the following.

Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.

 

If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.

 

The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.

Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.

It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.

 

That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x. 

 

I would love to know what you find.

The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.

 

If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.

It could be an internal connection.  It is a great spare to have.

 

The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.

The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button

Where are you located?

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376

 

Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.

somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite. 

 

 

 

On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Kauai