Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit
In order to grease the gearboxes, you must install grease nipples
I drilled mine, tapped in my nipples, and voila...
Cheers
Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007, Opua NZ
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On 6/07/2020, at 12:13 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:
Hi Ken and Iris, Thanks for the clarification. It's helpful. Also, I note that Ken from Aquarius recommended grease to lubricate the furler, but you are recommending oil. Is the choice a matter of preference or what? Thanks again for your help. Regards Bill Shaproski
Hi Bill. Yes, I'm referring to the manual furler that the winch handle goes in. I don't know how you could add oil with it in place. Mine had never been serviced, and hearing about the shearing off of the foil, I wanted to remove it to check that anyway. Mine had holes that were elongated to about 15mm, so I cut it off and drilled new holes.
There was still oil in the gearbox, but only a cup or so, and it was black. After dismantling it and cleaning it up, I reassembled it and with it lying on the bench with the opening where the drive shaft goes in facing up, I poured in the oil and then finished assembling. Hope that helps, Kent On Jun 30, 2020 2:24 PM, Bill Shaproski < bill.shaproski@...> wrote: Hi Kent and Iris, Thanks much for the info. I just want to confirm that when you say you serviced the manual furler you are referring to the unit at the bottom of the main sail where you insert the winch handle to manually furl or unfurl the main when the electric system has failed. If yes, were you able to lubricate the inside of the unit with the unit in place. If so, how was this accomplished? I reviewed a YouTube video from Ken on Aquarius where he explains how to completely rebuild the unit which looks reasonably challenging. So if there's a way to lube it without disassembly I'd prefer that.
Thanks for your interest.
Regards Bill Shaproski Pacific Cool
Hi Bill. I just serviced my manual furler for the main. It is filled with a very heavy gear oil. I found only one place (in England) that sold it by the liter, otherwise it is sold in very large quantities and is very expensive. It was shipped to me in the USA in about a week at a reasonable price. A liter is enough to service it 2-3 times. It is Shell Oil Omala S4 WE320
After reinstalling it there was a small amount of oil on the deck the next day or two. It stopped leaking after a few days and hasn't been leaking for two weeks including furling and unfurling several times. What specifically did you want to know? Kent & Iris SM243 Kristy On Jun 18, 2020 9:00 AM, Bill Shaproski < bill.shaproski@...> wrote: I did find a group of messages from 2012 that address my question. But I would like to find someone who has done this recently to ask some specific questions. Regards, Bill Shaproski
--
Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
-- Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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Thanks again everyone for their reply’s
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On Jul 5, 2020, at 7:34 PM, Gary Wells <gary@...> wrote:
My wife and I were faced with a fairly similar decision when we were weighing the money vs. size vs. age vs. condition of a Maramu and a Mango and a Super Maramu.
Between the three there was over $100k difference in pricing so we just studied and studied and visited and made estimates of refit and operating costs and it seemed to never get any simpler.
Finally we decided on the super Maramu and I can truly say I think we made the right call. Each if the boats had it's merits and detractors but after our first year in the SM it became apparent that we did the best ~for us~.
I totally agree with all the posters who say that it's be hard to give up this boat for another, regardless up up/down scale and comparative factors because we are so heavily invested in having learned, tweaked, adjusted and discovered all the ups and downs of the boat we have.
My only comparison has been to sit and share time 54 owners. Of course it's natural to compare notes and that's pretty much the end of objectivity right there. One 54 owner Bates the flush-top deck lockers lockers because they leak. Mine are raised and don't leak .. but the reason they went to flush is because you can trip on them. I love out handhold-to-handhold movement below deck. On another (older) SM my wife nearly took a fall on the companionway reaching for an expected handhold that hadn't been invented yet on that boat. The 54's hard top is a great advantage .. unless you like flipping the canvas down for the air. And yes, I'd love the extra speed, extra foresail, different stateroom layout and newer gadgetry on a 54, but I'm also really happy with what I am familiar with; and from what I hear, a smidge less.comexity and easier access to some mechanicals on the SM.
It's just got to come down to your evaluation of wants and needs. I've done a fair amount of single handing on a Super Maramu and it's easy enough. The 54 I conceptually the same so I can't see how it's be any different. Crew accommodation is excellent on both, maybe the 54 has an edge with more hatches when it's miserably calm somewhere, but then .. more chances for leaky gaskets. You see what I'm driving at :) Hope you have a great "hunt" and eventually find the "one" that fits best.
Gary W
SM 209, Adagio Deltaville, VA USA
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Gary Wells
My wife and I were faced with a fairly similar decision when we were weighing the money vs. size vs. age vs. condition of a Maramu and a Mango and a Super Maramu.
Between the three there was over $100k difference in pricing so we just studied and studied and visited and made estimates of refit and operating costs and it seemed to never get any simpler.
Finally we decided on the super Maramu and I can truly say I think we made the right call. Each if the boats had it's merits and detractors but after our first year in the SM it became apparent that we did the best ~for us~.
I totally agree with all the posters who say that it's be hard to give up this boat for another, regardless up up/down scale and comparative factors because we are so heavily invested in having learned, tweaked, adjusted and discovered all the ups and downs of the boat we have.
My only comparison has been to sit and share time 54 owners. Of course it's natural to compare notes and that's pretty much the end of objectivity right there. One 54 owner Bates the flush-top deck lockers lockers because they leak. Mine are raised and don't leak .. but the reason they went to flush is because you can trip on them. I love out handhold-to-handhold movement below deck. On another (older) SM my wife nearly took a fall on the companionway reaching for an expected handhold that hadn't been invented yet on that boat. The 54's hard top is a great advantage .. unless you like flipping the canvas down for the air. And yes, I'd love the extra speed, extra foresail, different stateroom layout and newer gadgetry on a 54, but I'm also really happy with what I am familiar with; and from what I hear, a smidge less.comexity and easier access to some mechanicals on the SM.
It's just got to come down to your evaluation of wants and needs. I've done a fair amount of single handing on a Super Maramu and it's easy enough. The 54 I conceptually the same so I can't see how it's be any different. Crew accommodation is excellent on both, maybe the 54 has an edge with more hatches when it's miserably calm somewhere, but then .. more chances for leaky gaskets. You see what I'm driving at :) Hope you have a great "hunt" and eventually find the "one" that fits best.
Gary W
SM 209, Adagio Deltaville, VA USA
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit

Bill Shaproski
Hi Ken and Iris, Thanks for the clarification. It's helpful. Also, I note that Ken from Aquarius recommended grease to lubricate the furler, but you are recommending oil. Is the choice a matter of preference or what? Thanks again for your help. Regards Bill Shaproski
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Hi Bill. Yes, I'm referring to the manual furler that the winch handle goes in. I don't know how you could add oil with it in place. Mine had never been serviced, and hearing about the shearing off of the foil, I wanted to remove it to check that anyway. Mine had holes that were elongated to about 15mm, so I cut it off and drilled new holes.
There was still oil in the gearbox, but only a cup or so, and it was black. After dismantling it and cleaning it up, I reassembled it and with it lying on the bench with the opening where the drive shaft goes in facing up, I poured in the oil and then finished assembling. Hope that helps, Kent On Jun 30, 2020 2:24 PM, Bill Shaproski < bill.shaproski@...> wrote: Hi Kent and Iris, Thanks much for the info. I just want to confirm that when you say you serviced the manual furler you are referring to the unit at the bottom of the main sail where you insert the winch handle to manually furl or unfurl the main when the electric system has failed. If yes, were you able to lubricate the inside of the unit with the unit in place. If so, how was this accomplished? I reviewed a YouTube video from Ken on Aquarius where he explains how to completely rebuild the unit which looks reasonably challenging. So if there's a way to lube it without disassembly I'd prefer that.
Thanks for your interest.
Regards Bill Shaproski Pacific Cool
Hi Bill. I just serviced my manual furler for the main. It is filled with a very heavy gear oil. I found only one place (in England) that sold it by the liter, otherwise it is sold in very large quantities and is very expensive. It was shipped to me in the USA in about a week at a reasonable price. A liter is enough to service it 2-3 times. It is Shell Oil Omala S4 WE320
After reinstalling it there was a small amount of oil on the deck the next day or two. It stopped leaking after a few days and hasn't been leaking for two weeks including furling and unfurling several times. What specifically did you want to know? Kent & Iris SM243 Kristy On Jun 18, 2020 9:00 AM, Bill Shaproski < bill.shaproski@...> wrote: I did find a group of messages from 2012 that address my question. But I would like to find someone who has done this recently to ask some specific questions. Regards, Bill Shaproski
--
Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
-- Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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Bill Shaproski
Are you referring to your Genoa furler or your main sail furler? If it's the main sail furler, is it the outhaul motor/gearbox that stops or the furler motor/gearbox that stops? If it's the main sail furler, were you able to get it back by manually cranking it in? I suspect you're referring to the Genoa furler, but just wanted to confirm. Regards. Bill Shaproski S/V Pacific Cool
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Hello Group
Tom Deasy APHRODITE Maramu 1983 #125
I am having a problem with my electric furler, four years old and several thousand miles.It will unroll about 2 feet and stop it will not roll back up. Is it possible for me to disassemble to see the problem could it be the brushes or possibly corrosion with the paws or the electrical brake system any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Tom Deasy
-- Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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Re: Boar speed om Amel SM200

Bill Shaproski
I have a 1995 SM and changed out the B&G instruments for Raymarine instruments. Relatively straightforward replacement except for running the wiring to the mast head for the wind instrument. The wires for all instruments, run in a completely accessible channel on the starboard side at the ceiling intersection.
Regards Bill Shaproski S/V Pacific Cool 206-375-2787
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On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 1:33 PM Slavko Despotovi < slavko@...> wrote: Hello,
I just become the owner of SM 2000 hull nr. 279. Name Bonne Anse. Boat speed is not working. Surveyer Oliver said that problem is in sensor. Any experince if I would change with sensor for depth, temperature and speed sensor?
Thank you,
Slavko SM 2000 279
-- Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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Bill Shaproski
I have a 1995 Amel SM with a TMD22A and a MaxProp. I used a max cruising speed of 2,000 RPM when doing my circumnavigation, but usually tried to keep it at 1800RPM. I have cruised at 2600 RPM plus in an emergency for about 30 minutes, but the engine did get very hot. Hope this helps. I arrived at the 2,000RPM number by listening to the prior owner's advice.
Regards, Bill Shaproski S/v Pacific Cool 206-375-2787
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Hello Amelians! I am in the process of learning my boat. The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller. I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm? I can't get more than 2100 rpm! Any suggestion?
-- Jose Prieto SV Wayag, SM 323 Currently Alicante, Spain
-- Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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Bill it is nice to have your comment . I have to check for this . What do you mean ? I think I don’t have sufficient knoweldge about your question. May please provide me additiional info ? as you may image we carry 2 alternators one for the 12 volt engine / onan battery charger ant another one at 24 volt for the other batteries. cheers
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Il giorno 05 lug 2020, alle ore 21:30, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> ha scritto:
Did your mechanic Isolate the 12-volt negative?
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Hi Marco, Are you still using the AutoProp H6 with the new engine? If yes, did you have it modified in any way?
Thanks, Kent SM 243 Kristy
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Kent, we are using the same h6 was setted up by amel for the previuos TMD22 without modification. I discussed for a while with the Autoprop dealer for the defintion of the 2,3 gearbox ratio becouse I thought in the beginning to use the same gearbox ratio of the other yanmar 100 cv installed on the SM . But this new version ( 110cv) run at maximum only at 3200 rpm instead of the 3800 rpm so we needed a smaller ratio. The engine at its maxum reach all the 3200 rpm . Indeed the boat runs to above 9,2 Knots but she goes above her critical velocity that with the usual formula is 8,7 knots . From what my brother is describing to me ( I leave in Milan ) there are not vibration and the engine is very silent . cheers marco
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Hi Marco, Are you still using the AutoProp H6 with the new engine? If yes, did you have it modified in any way?
Thanks, Kent SM 243 Kristy
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Brent Cameron
I use a small knot in the end of a rope that will go through the hole in the centre fairly easily and then I put a hosek on it and it blows the knot through in about 2 seconds flat. (Assumes the noodles have a hole up the centre, all the ones I’ve seen do.
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On Jul 5, 2020, 4:41 PM -0400, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...>, wrote:
Hi Marc
I like the idea with the swimming noodles. I would like to test it, but I don’t have an idea how to move a line through them?
Can you give me a hint how you managed?
Thanks and best regards
Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl
"SY WASABI"
Amel 54. #55
On the way from Sicily to Apulia
Or, you can accomplish the same result using a couple of swimming noodles with a line through them and tied under the stern of the boat.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
Hi Jamie,
We have used this over the past 5 years. We were for 2 years in Port Corbieres, Marseille and then wintered 3 years in Marina de Ragusa, Sicily. The Slap Silencer has 4 simple cords for easy attachment to the stern side upright rails, does get growth of algae which cleans off easily.This is available online. US product “www.slapsilencer.com”
I would recommend this if you are in a marina for a week or more.
We pack it away after fresh water wash and dry in supplied bag under our master bunk.
You will see that the Slap Silencer is more than a piece of canvas.
We have not needed it whilst we have been at anchor here for the past few months as we are always pointing into the breeze and small waves coming off shore.
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique
Barry, I was reading this thread and saw your comment about the "Slap Silencer." You noted it was online, but where?
I have this problem with my 54, but mostly have become numb to the slapping in the aft cabin. The boat came with a very heavy canvas in a bag, and I suspect that is what it is for, but I have never tried it.
Can you provide more details about your solution? Is my bag carrying the right thing, and if so how do I use it?
Thanks,
Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44
-- Brent Cameron
Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator
Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada
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Rudolf Waldispuehl
Hi Marc I like the idea with the swimming noodles. I would like to test it, but I don’t have an idea how to move a line through them? Can you give me a hint how you managed? Thanks and best regards Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl "SY WASABI" Amel 54. #55 On the way from Sicily to Apulia
Or, you can accomplish the same result using a couple of
swimming noodles with a line through them and tied under the stern of the boat.
With best
regards, Mark Skipper Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently
cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us Hi Jamie, We have used this over the past 5 years. We were for 2 years
in Port Corbieres, Marseille and then wintered 3 years in Marina de
Ragusa, Sicily. The Slap Silencer has 4 simple cords for easy attachment to the
stern side upright rails, does get growth of algae which cleans off easily.This
is available online. US product “www.slapsilencer.com” I would recommend this if you are in a marina for a week or
more. We pack it away after fresh water wash and dry in supplied
bag under our master bunk. You will see that the Slap Silencer is more than a piece of
canvas. We have not needed it whilst we have been at anchor here for
the past few months as we are always pointing into the breeze and small waves
coming off shore. Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique
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On Jul 4, 2020, at 09:19, Jamie
Wendell < mysticshadow54@...> wrote: Barry,
I was reading this thread and saw your comment about the "Slap
Silencer." You noted it was online, but where?
I have this problem with my 54, but mostly have become numb to the slapping in
the aft cabin. The boat came with a very heavy canvas in a bag, and I suspect
that is what it is for, but I have never tried it.
Can you provide more details about your solution? Is my bag carrying the right
thing, and if so how do I use it?
Thanks,
Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44
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Re: Boar speed om Amel SM200
There is not a simple answer to your question, but there are answers. There are 3 general choices and several more that will work: 1.) Replace the sonic speed SOW sensors. Several owners have indeed bought new sensors recently 2.) Add a B&G-compatible paddlewheel through-hull transducer for speed (SOW) 3. Add a SOG to SOW NEMA 0183 converter and everything works fine, except you cannot calculate "set & drift," but unless you plan to rac your SM, you will not need to know these.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 2:33 PM Slavko Despotovi < slavko@...> wrote: Hello,
I just become the owner of SM 2000 hull nr. 279. Name Bonne Anse. Boat speed is not working. Surveyer Oliver said that problem is in sensor. Any experince if I would change with sensor for depth, temperature and speed sensor?
Thank you,
Slavko SM 2000 279
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Slavko Despotovic
Hello,
I just become the owner of SM 2000 hull nr. 279. Name Bonne Anse. Boat speed is not working. Surveyer Oliver said that problem is in sensor. Any experince if I would change with sensor for depth, temperature and speed sensor?
Thank you,
Slavko SM 2000 279
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Did your mechanic Isolate the 12-volt negative?
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Hi Marco, Are you still using the AutoProp H6 with the new engine? If yes, did you have it modified in any way?
Thanks, Kent SM 243 Kristy
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karkauai
Hi Marco, Are you still using the AutoProp H6 with the new engine? If yes, did you have it modified in any way?
Thanks, Kent SM 243 Kristy
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On Jul 5, 2020 1:18 PM, Marco Mancini <marcomancini61@...> wrote: dears,
the TMD22 with the mechanical gearbox (2,8 reduction factor) and the autoprop h6 was probably never reached in our 20 years of SM more than 2500 2600 rpm , The TMD22 engine characteristic curve show that the 78 hp ( the max power) is obtained at 3500 - 4200 rpm but at 2500 the curve show 40 hp and the boat has never reached more than 7.5 knots Now we have moved to the yanmar 110 cv, the new version of the yanmar 100) with gearbox with 2.3 rduction factor (midway betwenn the 1.97 of amel 54 with 110 volvo and 2.8 of the yanmar 100 ) that is the new version of the well known Yanmar 100 cv installed by Amel after the TMD22. In Italy due to a severe restrictions of omologation certificate we had also to afford the cost of new homologation certificate but we hare happy with this change . indeed the boat seems to go much better, it has a cruise speed of 8,5 at 2300 rpm over 3200rpm ( max engine regime) and also in the manoeuvres she is more prompt than before . cheers and good wind . marco mancini SM 304
Il giorno 25 giu 2020, alle ore 16:55, Thomas Peacock < peacock8491@...> ha scritto:
This is question without a definitive answer. We also have the TMD22. When we bought our boat (about 4 years used), we could get almost 3,000 rpm at max throttle. Our local diesel guy suggested cruising at 80% of max, or 2,400. Our max started to lessen within about a year. Ever since then, we have usually not been able to max out at 3,000. Usually max is 2,400 to 2,600, so we cruise at 80% of that. Issues affecting max cruise rpm include bottom, prop (even one barnacle can make a difference), turbo condition, and countless others. I suppose that, just like me, the Volvo has also lost a little mojo as it has aged.
Tom Peacock SM 240 Aletes Chesapeake Bay with its tiny keyboard Hello Amelians! I am in the process of learning my boat. The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller. I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm? I can't get more than 2100 rpm! Any suggestion?
-- Jose Prieto SV Wayag, SM 323 Currently Alicante, Spain
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dears,
the TMD22 with the mechanical gearbox (2,8 reduction factor) and the autoprop h6 was probably never reached in our 20 years of SM more than 2500 2600 rpm , The TMD22 engine characteristic curve show that the 78 hp ( the max power) is obtained at 3500 - 4200 rpm but at 2500 the curve show 40 hp and the boat has never reached more than 7.5 knots Now we have moved to the yanmar 110 cv, the new version of the yanmar 100) with gearbox with 2.3 rduction factor (midway betwenn the 1.97 of amel 54 with 110 volvo and 2.8 of the yanmar 100 ) that is the new version of the well known Yanmar 100 cv installed by Amel after the TMD22. In Italy due to a severe restrictions of omologation certificate we had also to afford the cost of new homologation certificate but we hare happy with this change . indeed the boat seems to go much better, it has a cruise speed of 8,5 at 2300 rpm over 3200rpm ( max engine regime) and also in the manoeuvres she is more prompt than before . cheers and good wind . marco mancini SM 304
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Il giorno 25 giu 2020, alle ore 16:55, Thomas Peacock < peacock8491@...> ha scritto:
This is question without a definitive answer. We also have the TMD22. When we bought our boat (about 4 years used), we could get almost 3,000 rpm at max throttle. Our local diesel guy suggested cruising at 80% of max, or 2,400. Our max started to lessen within about a year. Ever since then, we have usually not been able to max out at 3,000. Usually max is 2,400 to 2,600, so we cruise at 80% of that. Issues affecting max cruise rpm include bottom, prop (even one barnacle can make a difference), turbo condition, and countless others. I suppose that, just like me, the Volvo has also lost a little mojo as it has aged.
Tom Peacock SM 240 Aletes Chesapeake Bay with its tiny keyboard Hello Amelians! I am in the process of learning my boat. The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller. I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm? I can't get more than 2100 rpm! Any suggestion?
-- Jose Prieto SV Wayag, SM 323 Currently Alicante, Spain
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Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)

Dean Gillies
Scott/Jamie, I wonder if you could please do me a huge favour, and measure the voltages at pins 1 through 8 on the blue E51385 pump controller with the pump operating and also when the pump is not operating (you may have to temporarily turn up the temps on your fridges to make the compressors turn the pump off). So that's 16 DC voltage measurements in total, 8 with pump operating and 8 with pump not operating.
Fix the black multimeter probe on pin 9 (Negative) and measure the other 8 pins with the red probe. (note pins are numbered Left to right on the blue box).
I need this data to confirm my understanding of the circuit operation.
many thanks Dean Gillies SY Stella
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Re: Isolated ground solenoid
Sorry Tom= Mark-- I have been sending all this to Marks attention-- One step at a time however the black solenoid to the left of the valeo is a Yanmar oem starter solenoid is also in this circuit. This could also be the problem. But, lets check out the voltage to the Valeo first. Fair Winds, Good Night. Eric Sm376 Kimberlite
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On July 5, 2020 at 4:47 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
STOP LEAVER
On July 5, 2020 at 4:47 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
You might note a very small voltage drop at the positive valeo stud .5 volts as the electric goes through a diode first.
You should get about 12 volts here when the key is turned. If you keep the top leaver depressed you can keep the key in the start position for a bit
On July 5, 2020 at 4:42 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
The negative attachment is on the big stud to the left. The Positive for the meter is the stud on the valeo with the orange and blue wire (start and stop) note there is a small black wire sneaking behind the Valeo connected to the battery stud connection--that is the negative connection that actuates the solenoid-- always connected to the battery
On July 5, 2020 at 3:25 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376
Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.
On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Tom,
In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid
To,
Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.
Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?
If you are able to start the engine then try the following.
Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.
If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.
The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.
Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.
It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.
That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x.
I would love to know what you find.
The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.
If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.
It could be an internal connection. It is a great spare to have.
The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.
The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button
Where are you located?
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376
Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.
somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite.
On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote: So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible. Tom and Kirstin SM2K 422 Kauai
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Re: Isolated ground solenoid
STOP LEAVER
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On July 5, 2020 at 4:47 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
You might note a very small voltage drop at the positive valeo stud .5 volts as the electric goes through a diode first.
You should get about 12 volts here when the key is turned. If you keep the top leaver depressed you can keep the key in the start position for a bit
On July 5, 2020 at 4:42 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
The negative attachment is on the big stud to the left. The Positive for the meter is the stud on the valeo with the orange and blue wire (start and stop) note there is a small black wire sneaking behind the Valeo connected to the battery stud connection--that is the negative connection that actuates the solenoid-- always connected to the battery
On July 5, 2020 at 3:25 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376
Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.
On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Tom,
In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid
To,
Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.
Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?
If you are able to start the engine then try the following.
Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.
If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.
The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.
Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.
It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.
That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x.
I would love to know what you find.
The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.
If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.
It could be an internal connection. It is a great spare to have.
The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.
The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button
Where are you located?
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376
Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.
somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite.
On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote: So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible. Tom and Kirstin SM2K 422 Kauai
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|
Re: Isolated ground solenoid
You might note a very small voltage drop at the positive valeo stud .5 volts as the electric goes through a diode first. You should get about 12 volts here when the key is turned. If you keep the top leaver depressed you can keep the key in the start position for a bit
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On July 5, 2020 at 4:42 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
The negative attachment is on the big stud to the left. The Positive for the meter is the stud on the valeo with the orange and blue wire (start and stop) note there is a small black wire sneaking behind the Valeo connected to the battery stud connection--that is the negative connection that actuates the solenoid-- always connected to the battery
On July 5, 2020 at 3:25 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
Hi Mark,
The Valeo solenoid works to both start and stop the engine.
It is isolated by a pair of diodes. One is fed by the start key and the other is fed DC from the stop button Without the Motorola diodes the engine would try to start and stop at the same time. The function of the Valeo solenoid is to temporarily connect the engine block to the battery negative for both starting and stopping the engine. the stop solenoid in the fuel injector pump and the starter motor are operated by their respective buttons and are really not Toms problem. His problem is that the Valeo Solenoid is not closing to ground the block.
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376
Pardon my typing and speling. I tore tendons off the bone in my right arm when we were knocked down flat by a microburst. last winter They just reattached them last week. It was amazing we were sailing along in clear cloudless air and bam in a second Kimberlite had he sails in the water. I ripped the tendons off trying to cranking the mizzen after releasing the genoa.
On July 5, 2020 at 12:54 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Tom,
In addition to the great advice from Eric, be sure to take a look at the stop solenoid. This is often overlooked when dealing with a start issue.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 4:33 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Isolated ground solenoid
To,
Before you start chasing zebras, try these simple tests.
Does the engine start id you depress the valeo solenoid and someone tries to start the engine?
If you are able to start the engine then try the following.
Measure the voltage at the engine between the power + wire to the valeo solenoid and the battery ground when someone tries to start the engine.. IF you get 12.5 volts + then there is a problem either with the valeo solenoid or the yanmar black solenoid mounted next to the valeo solenoid.
If you do not get 12.5+ volts then there is a problem with the red wire from the panel. Look at the yanmar B panel wiring diagram.
The red wire is a wire going from the Yanmar engine panel to a 3 wire harness. The wire is Red but it might be spliced into a white wire.
Remove the Yanmar panel and look behind it for a solderless crimp connector joining the 2 wires.
It is about 1 foot from the panel down in the mess of wires. If you have that connection remove it and solder the wires together. That is the wire that both closes the valeo solenoid and starts the engine.
That wire runs to the smallest of the 3 harness connectors at the engine Starboard side possibly under the insulation. There is a red, blue, and white wire on the 3 wire connectors. Open it up and spray it with corrosion x.
I would love to know what you find.
The valeo is just an expensive starter motor solenoid for 12 volt vehicles. . What makes it different is the back actuator button.
If you have an automobile starter solenoid make it is an isolated ground solenoid. If the negative wire is connected to the metal body of the solenoid it is not isolated ground and defeats the Amel bonding.
It could be an internal connection. It is a great spare to have.
The 24 volt valeo solenoid if for the genoa furler mounted most forward port side forward cabin.
The Valeo 12 V solenoid is 160 euros and the Auto version is about $20- Thats a lot of money for a rubber button
Where are you located?
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376
Ps do you have a switch mounted in a white plastic perforated box outboard of the engine stringer and forward of a Calpeda AC pump? It is for a high water alarm. If you have this switch please see if you can identify the maker or at least send me a photo with measurements.
somehow the top 1/2 of that switch disappeared on Kimberlite.
On July 4, 2020 at 5:46 PM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote: So, engine doesn't start intermittently. After corrosion x in the solenoid, cleaning contacts, problem re-emerges. Can start engine by pushing button but need to fix this. Broke out spares purchased across the years and noticed my spare solenoid is 24 volt (need a 12 volt). I have a Cole Hersee 12 volt solenoid (no button) but am not sure if the wiring relating to the "s" and "I" marked small terminals on the solenoid relative to the red and black wires on the existing valeo solenoid. Any thoughts ? Internet research suggests red to "I" but I'm not confident enough to do it. Of course will order correct solenoid when possible. Tom and Kirstin SM2K 422 Kauai
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