Hi Bill,

I don’t agree with your statement you can do without a STW sensor if you are not racing. In my current location (Caribbean) this may be OK but my former cruising grounds (Western-Europe) it would be quite an omission to live without STW. When tidal currents are getting significant you really appreciate the information you get from the difference between SOG and STW. We’ve sailed in places where the tidal current can run up to 8 knots. You really want to know when the tide change.
So it’s very depending on your cruising grounds if you can do without a STW sensor.

regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain

Bill, I also have an Amel about the same age as yours, and it too has the TMD22a. My engine would also run hot if I ran it much over 1800 rpm , at 2500 rpm for a few minutes I was seeing 217 degrees . I replaced the impeller ,insured water supply was unrestricted and cleaned the heat exchanger several times over a couple of years and yet still had overheating. I finally discovered my problem, and probably yours. The rubber caps on either end of the heat exchanger needed to be replaced and while ordering them online , on the side bar it showed a rubber washer/seal . I had no idea what it was for ,but bought it as well. I found a illustration showing this washer around the H/E core , when I took the core out and looked into the H/E housing ,towards the back I saw what I would call a small round  bulkhead built into the housing ,slightly larger in diameter than the core itself. The seal closes off the opening forcing the cooling water to flow thru the core rather than much of it  bypassing to core . So at low rpms the cooling was adequate to keep temps low ,but couldn't cool the water efficiently enough at higher rpms.

The washer had deteriorated and fallen off the core before I ever first took it apart, thus I never knew it existed ,I found small remnants of it later in the housing. So take your core out and see if the washer is on the core,I will bet it is gone, or pushed back too far and not sealing the opening. When you replace it ,slip it over the far end but not so far that it does not come into contact with the bulkhead opening  ,let the bulkhead push it into its proper position as you slide the core into place. 

One last tip to save a couple of hundred dollars. Buying the rubber end caps from any Volvo supplier was going to cost about $350. I found that if I ordered the caps for a Perkins M80 ,same caps ,it only cost about $55. ,the seal/washer was only a couple of dollars.

I hope this ends your overheating issues, I think it will.

Good Luck,

Pat

SM Shenanigans #123

Sassafras River ,Md.

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Jul 5, 2020 7:31 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Cruise and Max RPM #solution

I have a 1995 Amel SM with a TMD22A and a MaxProp.  I used a max cruising speed of 2,000 RPM when doing my circumnavigation, but usually tried to keep it at 1800RPM.  I have cruised at 2600 RPM plus in an emergency for about 30 minutes, but the engine did get very hot.  Hope this helps.  I arrived at the 2,000RPM number by listening to the prior owner's advice.  

Regards,

Bill Shaproski

S/v Pacific Cool

206-375-2787

On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 8:10 AM JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:

Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain

--

Bill Shaproski

Cell:  +1-206-375-2787

The heavy oil was what was put in it by Amel, and lasted some 21 years, so that's what I used. If you go with grease, I think it should be looked at every 2 years or so. I may look at mine every 5 years if it doesn't leak oil.

Kent

On Jul 5, 2020 8:12 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:

Hi Ken and Iris,

Thanks for the clarification.  It's helpful.  Also, I note that Ken from Aquarius recommended grease to lubricate the furler, but you are recommending oil.  Is the choice a matter of preference or what?  Thanks again for your help.  

Regards

Bill Shaproski

On Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 3:35 PM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill.

Yes, I'm referring to the manual furler that the winch handle goes in.

I don't know how you could add oil with it in place. Mine had never been serviced, and hearing about the shearing off of the foil, I wanted to remove it to check that anyway.  Mine had holes that were elongated to about 15mm, so I cut it off and drilled new holes.

There was still oil in the gearbox, but only a cup or so, and it was black.  After dismantling it and cleaning it up, I reassembled it and with it lying on the bench with the opening where the drive shaft goes in facing up, I poured in the oil and then finished assembling.

Hope that helps,

Kent

On Jun 30, 2020 2:24 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:

Hi Kent and Iris,

Thanks much for the info.  I just want to confirm that when you say you serviced the manual furler you are referring to the unit at the bottom of the main sail where you insert the winch handle to manually furl or unfurl the main when the electric system has failed.  If yes, were you able to lubricate the inside of the unit with the unit in place. If so, how was this accomplished?  I reviewed a YouTube video from Ken on Aquarius where he explains how to completely rebuild the unit which looks reasonably challenging.  So if there's a way to lube it without disassembly I'd prefer that.  

Thanks for your interest.

Regards

Bill Shaproski

Pacific Cool  

On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 8:00 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill.

I just serviced my manual furler for the main. It is filled with a very heavy gear oil.  I found only one place (in England) that sold it by the liter, otherwise it is sold in very large quantities and is very expensive. It was shipped to me in the USA in about a week at a reasonable price. A liter is enough to service it 2-3 times.

 It is Shell Oil Omala S4 WE320

https://www.lubefinder.com/shell-omala-s4-we-320.html

After reinstalling it there was a small amount of oil on the deck the next day or two. It stopped leaking after a few days and hasn't been leaking for two weeks including furling and unfurling several times.

What specifically did you want to know?

Kent & Iris

SM243

Kristy

On Jun 18, 2020 9:00 AM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:

I did find a group of messages from 2012 that address my question.  But I would like to find someone who has done this recently to ask some specific questions.  
Regards,
Bill Shaproski

--

Bill Shaproski

Cell:  +1-206-375-2787

--

Bill Shaproski

Cell:  +1-206-375-2787

Hi Bill

The Barmar EJF is the forestay furler.

Tom Deasy 

Maramu #125 1983

On Jul 5, 2020, at 5:07 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:



Are you referring to your Genoa furler or your main sail furler?  If it's the main sail furler, is it the outhaul motor/gearbox that stops or the furler motor/gearbox that stops?  If it's the main sail furler, were you able to get it back by manually cranking it in?  I suspect you're referring to the Genoa furler, but just wanted to confirm.  

Regards.

Bill Shaproski

S/V Pacific Cool

On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 12:43 PM amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:

Hello Group
Tom Deasy APHRODITE Maramu 1983 #125
I am having a problem with my electric furler, four years old and several thousand miles.It will unroll about 2 feet and stop it will not roll back up. Is it possible for me to disassemble to see the problem could it be the brushes or possibly corrosion with the paws or the electrical brake system any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Tom Deasy

--

Bill Shaproski

Cell:  +1-206-375-2787

Hi Ken and Iris,

Thanks for the clarification.  It's helpful.  Also, I note that Ken from Aquarius recommended grease to lubricate the furler, but you are recommending oil.  Is the choice a matter of preference or what?  Thanks again for your help.  

Regards

Bill Shaproski

On Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 3:35 PM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill.

Yes, I'm referring to the manual furler that the winch handle goes in.

I don't know how you could add oil with it in place. Mine had never been serviced, and hearing about the shearing off of the foil, I wanted to remove it to check that anyway.  Mine had holes that were elongated to about 15mm, so I cut it off and drilled new holes.

There was still oil in the gearbox, but only a cup or so, and it was black.  After dismantling it and cleaning it up, I reassembled it and with it lying on the bench with the opening where the drive shaft goes in facing up, I poured in the oil and then finished assembling.

Hope that helps,

Kent

On Jun 30, 2020 2:24 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:

Hi Kent and Iris,

Thanks much for the info.  I just want to confirm that when you say you serviced the manual furler you are referring to the unit at the bottom of the main sail where you insert the winch handle to manually furl or unfurl the main when the electric system has failed.  If yes, were you able to lubricate the inside of the unit with the unit in place. If so, how was this accomplished?  I reviewed a YouTube video from Ken on Aquarius where he explains how to completely rebuild the unit which looks reasonably challenging.  So if there's a way to lube it without disassembly I'd prefer that.  

Thanks for your interest.

Regards

Bill Shaproski

Pacific Cool  

On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 8:00 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill.

I just serviced my manual furler for the main. It is filled with a very heavy gear oil.  I found only one place (in England) that sold it by the liter, otherwise it is sold in very large quantities and is very expensive. It was shipped to me in the USA in about a week at a reasonable price. A liter is enough to service it 2-3 times.

 It is Shell Oil Omala S4 WE320

https://www.lubefinder.com/shell-omala-s4-we-320.html

After reinstalling it there was a small amount of oil on the deck the next day or two. It stopped leaking after a few days and hasn't been leaking for two weeks including furling and unfurling several times.

What specifically did you want to know?

Kent & Iris

SM243

Kristy

On Jun 18, 2020 9:00 AM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:

I did find a group of messages from 2012 that address my question.  But I would like to find someone who has done this recently to ask some specific questions.  
Regards,
Bill Shaproski

--

Bill Shaproski

Cell:  +1-206-375-2787

--

Bill Shaproski

Cell:  +1-206-375-2787

Kent, we are using the same h6 was setted up by amel for the previuos TMD22 without modification. I discussed for a while with the Autoprop dealer for the defintion of the 2,3 gearbox ratio  becouse I thought in the beginning to use the same gearbox ratio of the other yanmar 100 cv installed on the SM . But this new version ( 110cv) run at maximum only at 3200 rpm instead of the 3800 rpm so we needed a smaller ratio.  The engine at its maxum reach all the 3200 rpm . Indeed the boat runs to above 9,2 Knots but she goes above her  critical velocity that with the usual formula is  8,7  knots . From what my brother is describing to me  ( I leave in Milan ) there are not vibration and the engine is very silent . 

cheers 

marco 

Il giorno 05 lug 2020, alle ore 20:09, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> ha scritto:

Hi Marco,

Are you still using the AutoProp H6 with the new engine?  If yes, did you have it modified in any way?

Thanks,

Kent

SM 243

Kristy

On Jul 5, 2020 1:18 PM, Marco Mancini <marcomancini61@...> wrote:

dears,

the TMD22 with the mechanical gearbox (2,8 reduction factor) and the autoprop h6 was probably  never reached in our 20 years of SM  more than 2500 2600 rpm ,

The TMD22 engine characteristic curve show that the 78 hp ( the max power) is obtained at 3500 - 4200 rpm  but at 2500 the curve show 40 hp and the boat has never reached more than 7.5 knots 

Now we have moved to the yanmar 110 cv,  the new version of the yanmar 100) with gearbox with 2.3 rduction factor   (midway betwenn the 1.97 of amel 54 with 110 volvo and  2.8 of the yanmar 100 )  that is  the new version  of the well known  Yanmar 100 cv  installed by Amel  after the TMD22. In Italy due to a severe restrictions of  omologation certificate we had also to afford the cost of new homologation certificate but we hare happy with this change . indeed the boat seems to go much better, it has a cruise speed of 8,5  at 2300 rpm over 3200rpm ( max engine regime)  and also in the manoeuvres she is more prompt than before . 

cheers and good wind . 

marco mancini 

SM 304 

Il giorno 25 giu 2020, alle ore 16:55, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> ha scritto:

This is question without a definitive answer. 

We also have the TMD22. When we bought our boat (about 4 years used), we could get almost 3,000 rpm at max throttle. Our local diesel guy suggested cruising at 80% of max, or 2,400. Our max started to lessen within about a year. 

Ever since then, we have usually not been able to max out at 3,000. Usually max is 2,400 to 2,600, so we cruise at 80% of that.

Issues affecting max cruise rpm include bottom, prop (even one barnacle can make a difference), turbo condition, and countless others. 

I suppose that, just like me, the Volvo has also lost a little mojo as it has aged. 

Tom Peacock

SM 240 Aletes

Chesapeake Bay

with its tiny keyboard

On Jun 25, 2020, at 10:10 AM, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:

Hello Amelians!  I am in the process of learning my boat.  The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm?  I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
 Any suggestion?

--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain