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Re: Boar speed om Amel SM200
Arno Luijten
Hi Bill,
I don’t agree with your statement you can do without a STW sensor if you are not racing. In my current location (Caribbean) this may be OK but my former cruising grounds (Western-Europe) it would be quite an omission to live without STW. When tidal currents are getting significant you really appreciate the information you get from the difference between SOG and STW. We’ve sailed in places where the tidal current can run up to 8 knots. You really want to know when the tide change.
So it’s very depending on your cruising grounds if you can do without a STW sensor.
regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121
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Bill, Be certain to fully seat the end caps so that the core is fully inserted in its section of the cap and tighten the clamps well,or else the raw water can exchange or mix with the antifreeze . My old caps were getting hard ,making it hard to insure a tight seal as the rubber was no longer pliable . The previous owner went so far as to put sealant/silicone in the cap. Not a good idea ,as pieces could break free and block cooling passages within the block. As I said in my previous post ,you can buy a new set of caps for about $50. ,if you buy them for a Perkins instead of a Volvo.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Sassafras River, Md.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Mon, Jul 6, 2020 11:51 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Cruise and Max RPM #solution
Hi Frank,
Thanks for getting back to me with your very comprehensive and well written explanation. I'll definitely check my HE when I return to Florida.
Best Regards
Bill Shaproski
Bill, I also have an Amel about the same age as yours, and it too has the TMD22a. My engine would also run hot if I ran it much over 1800 rpm , at 2500 rpm for a few minutes I was seeing 217 degrees . I replaced the impeller ,insured water supply was unrestricted and cleaned the heat exchanger several times over a couple of years and yet still had overheating. I finally discovered my problem, and probably yours. The rubber caps on either end of the heat exchanger needed to be replaced and while ordering them online , on the side bar it showed a rubber washer/seal . I had no idea what it was for ,but bought it as well. I found a illustration showing this washer around the H/E core , when I took the core out and looked into the H/E housing ,towards the back I saw what I would call a small round bulkhead built into the housing ,slightly larger in diameter than the core itself. The seal closes off the opening forcing the cooling water to flow thru the core rather than much of it bypassing to core . So at low rpms the cooling was adequate to keep temps low ,but couldn't cool the water efficiently enough at higher rpms.
The washer had deteriorated and fallen off the core before I ever first took it apart, thus I never knew it existed ,I found small remnants of it later in the housing. So take your core out and see if the washer is on the core,I will bet it is gone, or pushed back too far and not sealing the opening. When you replace it ,slip it over the far end but not so far that it does not come into contact with the bulkhead opening ,let the bulkhead push it into its proper position as you slide the core into place.
One last tip to save a couple of hundred dollars. Buying the rubber end caps from any Volvo supplier was going to cost about $350. I found that if I ordered the caps for a Perkins M80 ,same caps ,it only cost about $55. ,the seal/washer was only a couple of dollars.
I hope this ends your overheating issues, I think it will.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123
Sassafras River ,Md.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Shaproski < bill.shaproski@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators < main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Jul 5, 2020 7:31 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Cruise and Max RPM #solution
I have a 1995 Amel SM with a TMD22A and a MaxProp. I used a max cruising speed of 2,000 RPM when doing my circumnavigation, but usually tried to keep it at 1800RPM. I have cruised at 2600 RPM plus in an emergency for about 30 minutes, but the engine did get very hot. Hope this helps. I arrived at the 2,000RPM number by listening to the prior owner's advice.
Regards,
Bill Shaproski
S/v Pacific Cool
206-375-2787
Hello Amelians! I am in the process of learning my boat. The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm? I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
Any suggestion?
--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain
--
Bill Shaproski
Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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Jose, I have the same engine with the Max prop I have now,or the fixed prop ,I could always get to 3100 rpms and about 8.3 kts. I too recommend you check your turbo. You may want to check the throttle linkage as well ,it may have slipped.
Good Luck ,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: Philippe Chatton <chattonp960@...>
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Jul 6, 2020 1:55 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Cruise and Max RPM #solution
Hi Jose,
I would recommend that you have your turbo checked
Kind regards
Philippe
S/V Chameleon
Antibes, F
Hello Amelians! I am in the process of learning my boat. The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm? I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
Any suggestion?
--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain
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Upcoming Event: ZOOM Meeting, Presentation from the owner of QSails on sailcloth and sail construction - Sat, 07/11/2020 20:00-21:00, Please RSVP
#cal-reminder
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar <main@...>
Reminder: ZOOM Meeting, Presentation from the owner of QSails on sailcloth and sail construction
When:
Saturday, 11 July 2020, 20:00 to 21:00,
(GMT+00:00) UTC
An RSVP is requested. Click here to RSVP
Description: Over 60 Amel owners have purchased sails from QSails, Izmir, Turkey. QSails has shipped these sails worldwide. Emrah Oge, owner, manager, and avid sailor will present how sails are made and some key points to be aware of in the selection of sails for your Amel.
Join Zoom Meeting
https://epfl.zoom.us/j/93628807246
Meeting ID: 936 2880 7246
Join by SIP
93628807246@...
Please RSVP as soon as possible
See you on ZOOM!
Bill Rouse
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Hi Jose, I would recommend that you have your turbo checked Kind regards Philippe S/V Chameleon Antibes, F
Hello Amelians! I am in the process of learning my boat. The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm? I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
Any suggestion?
--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain
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Hi James,
You original question has to be on of the very best for a long time, just look at the quality of responses.
Over the past week I have continually thought if I were in your position, what would I really do?
Despite that I totally hate all Volvo engines, they still work and have a global back up. I don't like the locker seat height in the cockpit of the 54, so I would buy a cushion. The centre line aft bunk, well I can sleep forward when it's bumpy or noisy ( I always slept on the passageway floor to the aft cabin on my SM when on passage) . The defective main mast on the early models, I would ensure the factory repair had been carried out. The bloody table stopping the engine room door from lifting, there are several ways around that- or I'd just live with it. After all, the less I would have to look at that Volvo the better.
So after 30,000 miles sailing the SM and around 12,000 single handed would I buy the 54?
1. The double anchors. 2. The broader beam aft, giving more positive buoyancy meaning you really can carry proper davits and solar panels with worrying about dragging your stern. 3. No more temptation of setting those
downwind double poles when sailing alone. 4. Having sailed in company for 5/6000 miles with two other SMs and three 54s, the 54 is definitely a little faster but not much. 5. Despite my comments about less stowage, there is far more than you will need. If you look back you will find many posts about live abroad cruisers having to repaint the boot line on a SM because they carried too much junk .6.The bow thruster on the 54 appears to be a lot less hassle, I don't know this for sure. 7. The forward facing nav station and the generous layout for mounting instruments.
8. The washing machine and dryer in the fore peak, mess and smell out of the way.9. It's a more modern design and is so much brighter for living aboard full time. 10. Maybe the most important part of your question, ROC when it comes time to cash out, I would have thought that your 54 being younger etc. might stand up better and gibe more Return On Capital.
All I can say is, I wish I were in your shoes and had that problem.
Chantier Amel respect del la mer, there is nothing better.
Good luck & fair winds.
Trevor Lusty
Ireland
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Bill Shaproski
Hi Frank, Thanks for getting back to me with your very comprehensive and well written explanation. I'll definitely check my HE when I return to Florida. Best Regards Bill Shaproski
Bill, I also have an Amel about the same age as yours, and it too has the TMD22a. My engine would also run hot if I ran it much over 1800 rpm , at 2500 rpm for a few minutes I was seeing 217 degrees . I replaced the impeller ,insured water supply was unrestricted and cleaned the heat exchanger several times over a couple of years and yet still had overheating. I finally discovered my problem, and probably yours. The rubber caps on either end of the heat exchanger needed to be replaced and while ordering them online , on the side bar it showed a rubber washer/seal . I had no idea what it was for ,but bought it as well. I found a illustration showing this washer around the H/E core , when I took the core out and looked into the H/E housing ,towards the back I saw what I would call a small round bulkhead built into the housing ,slightly larger in diameter than the core itself. The seal closes off the opening forcing the cooling water to flow thru the core rather than much of it bypassing to core . So at low rpms the cooling was adequate to keep temps low ,but couldn't cool the water efficiently enough at higher rpms.
The washer had deteriorated and fallen off the core before I ever first took it apart, thus I never knew it existed ,I found small remnants of it later in the housing. So take your core out and see if the washer is on the core,I will bet it is gone, or pushed back too far and not sealing the opening. When you replace it ,slip it over the far end but not so far that it does not come into contact with the bulkhead opening ,let the bulkhead push it into its proper position as you slide the core into place.
One last tip to save a couple of hundred dollars. Buying the rubber end caps from any Volvo supplier was going to cost about $350. I found that if I ordered the caps for a Perkins M80 ,same caps ,it only cost about $55. ,the seal/washer was only a couple of dollars.
I hope this ends your overheating issues, I think it will.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123
Sassafras River ,Md.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Shaproski < bill.shaproski@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators < main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Jul 5, 2020 7:31 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Cruise and Max RPM #solution
I have a 1995 Amel SM with a TMD22A and a MaxProp. I used a max cruising speed of 2,000 RPM when doing my circumnavigation, but usually tried to keep it at 1800RPM. I have cruised at 2600 RPM plus in an emergency for about 30 minutes, but the engine did get very hot. Hope this helps. I arrived at the 2,000RPM number by listening to the prior owner's advice.
Regards,
Bill Shaproski
S/v Pacific Cool
206-375-2787
Hello Amelians! I am in the process of learning my boat. The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm? I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
Any suggestion?
--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain
--
Bill Shaproski
Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit
Bill Shaproski
Hi Kent, Thanks for the followup. Useful to know. Regards Bill
The heavy oil was what was put in it by Amel, and lasted some 21 years, so that's what I used. If you go with grease, I think it should be looked at every 2 years or so. I may look at mine every 5 years if it doesn't leak oil. Kent
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Tom, the EJF is the forestay furler on your Maramu but was not the original furler.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Hi Bill
The Barmar EJF is the forestay furler.
Tom Deasy
Maramu #125 1983
Are you referring to your Genoa furler or your main sail furler? If it's the main sail furler, is it the outhaul motor/gearbox that stops or the furler motor/gearbox that stops? If it's the main sail furler, were you able to get it back by
manually cranking it in? I suspect you're referring to the Genoa furler, but just wanted to confirm.
Regards.
Bill Shaproski
S/V Pacific Cool
Hello Group
Tom Deasy APHRODITE Maramu 1983 #125
I am having a problem with my electric furler, four years old and several thousand miles.It will unroll about 2 feet and stop it will not roll back up. Is it possible for me to disassemble to see the problem could it be the brushes or possibly corrosion with
the paws or the electrical brake system any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Tom Deasy
--
Bill Shaproski
Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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Hi Bill
The Barmar EJF is the forestay furler.
Tom Deasy
On Jul 5, 2020, at 5:07 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:
Are you referring to your Genoa furler or your main sail furler? If it's the main sail furler, is it the outhaul motor/gearbox that stops or the furler motor/gearbox that stops? If it's the main sail furler, were you able to get it back by
manually cranking it in? I suspect you're referring to the Genoa furler, but just wanted to confirm.
Regards.
Bill Shaproski
S/V Pacific Cool
Hello Group
Tom Deasy APHRODITE Maramu 1983 #125
I am having a problem with my electric furler, four years old and several thousand miles.It will unroll about 2 feet and stop it will not roll back up. Is it possible for me to disassemble to see the problem could it be the brushes or possibly corrosion with
the paws or the electrical brake system any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Tom Deasy
--
Bill Shaproski
Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit
karkauai
The heavy oil was what was put in it by Amel, and lasted some 21 years, so that's what I used. If you go with grease, I think it should be looked at every 2 years or so. I may look at mine every 5 years if it doesn't leak oil. Kent
On Jul 5, 2020 8:12 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote: Hi Ken and Iris, Thanks for the clarification. It's helpful. Also, I note that Ken from Aquarius recommended grease to lubricate the furler, but you are recommending oil. Is the choice a matter of preference or what? Thanks again for your help. Regards Bill Shaproski
Hi Bill. Yes, I'm referring to the manual furler that the winch handle goes in. I don't know how you could add oil with it in place. Mine had never been serviced, and hearing about the shearing off of the foil, I wanted to remove it to check that anyway. Mine had holes that were elongated to about 15mm, so I cut it off and drilled new holes.
There was still oil in the gearbox, but only a cup or so, and it was black. After dismantling it and cleaning it up, I reassembled it and with it lying on the bench with the opening where the drive shaft goes in facing up, I poured in the oil and then finished assembling. Hope that helps, Kent On Jun 30, 2020 2:24 PM, Bill Shaproski < bill.shaproski@...> wrote: Hi Kent and Iris, Thanks much for the info. I just want to confirm that when you say you serviced the manual furler you are referring to the unit at the bottom of the main sail where you insert the winch handle to manually furl or unfurl the main when the electric system has failed. If yes, were you able to lubricate the inside of the unit with the unit in place. If so, how was this accomplished? I reviewed a YouTube video from Ken on Aquarius where he explains how to completely rebuild the unit which looks reasonably challenging. So if there's a way to lube it without disassembly I'd prefer that.
Thanks for your interest.
Regards Bill Shaproski Pacific Cool
Hi Bill. I just serviced my manual furler for the main. It is filled with a very heavy gear oil. I found only one place (in England) that sold it by the liter, otherwise it is sold in very large quantities and is very expensive. It was shipped to me in the USA in about a week at a reasonable price. A liter is enough to service it 2-3 times. It is Shell Oil Omala S4 WE320
After reinstalling it there was a small amount of oil on the deck the next day or two. It stopped leaking after a few days and hasn't been leaking for two weeks including furling and unfurling several times. What specifically did you want to know? Kent & Iris SM243 Kristy On Jun 18, 2020 9:00 AM, Bill Shaproski < bill.shaproski@...> wrote: I did find a group of messages from 2012 that address my question. But I would like to find someone who has done this recently to ask some specific questions.
Regards,
Bill Shaproski
--
Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
--
Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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karkauai
Thank you Marco. I still have the old Hurth transmission that was on the old Volvo. I'll have to check its gearbox ratio.
Kent SM 243 Kristy
On Jul 5, 2020 5:40 PM, Marco Mancini <marcomancini61@...> wrote: Kent, we are using the same h6 was setted up by amel for the previuos TMD22 without modification. I discussed for a while with the Autoprop dealer for the defintion of the 2,3 gearbox ratio becouse I thought in the beginning to use the same gearbox ratio of the other yanmar 100 cv installed on the SM . But this new version ( 110cv) run at maximum only at 3200 rpm instead of the 3800 rpm so we needed a smaller ratio. The engine at its maxum reach all the 3200 rpm . Indeed the boat runs to above 9,2 Knots but she goes above her critical velocity that with the usual formula is 8,7 knots . From what my brother is describing to me ( I leave in Milan ) there are not vibration and the engine is very silent . cheers marco
Hi Marco, Are you still using the AutoProp H6 with the new engine? If yes, did you have it modified in any way?
Thanks, Kent SM 243 Kristy On Jul 5, 2020 1:18 PM, Marco Mancini < marcomancini61@...> wrote: dears,
the TMD22 with the mechanical gearbox (2,8 reduction factor) and the autoprop h6 was probably never reached in our 20 years of SM more than 2500 2600 rpm , The TMD22 engine characteristic curve show that the 78 hp ( the max power) is obtained at 3500 - 4200 rpm but at 2500 the curve show 40 hp and the boat has never reached more than 7.5 knots Now we have moved to the yanmar 110 cv, the new version of the yanmar 100) with gearbox with 2.3 rduction factor (midway betwenn the 1.97 of amel 54 with 110 volvo and 2.8 of the yanmar 100 ) that is the new version of the well known Yanmar 100 cv installed by Amel after the TMD22. In Italy due to a severe restrictions of omologation certificate we had also to afford the cost of new homologation certificate but we hare happy with this change . indeed the boat seems to go much better, it has a cruise speed of 8,5 at 2300 rpm over 3200rpm ( max engine regime) and also in the manoeuvres she is more prompt than before . cheers and good wind . marco mancini SM 304
Il giorno 25 giu 2020, alle ore 16:55, Thomas Peacock < peacock8491@...> ha scritto:
This is question without a definitive answer. We also have the TMD22. When we bought our boat (about 4 years used), we could get almost 3,000 rpm at max throttle. Our local diesel guy suggested cruising at 80% of max, or 2,400. Our max started to lessen within about a year. Ever since then, we have usually not been able to max out at 3,000. Usually max is 2,400 to 2,600, so we cruise at 80% of that. Issues affecting max cruise rpm include bottom, prop (even one barnacle can make a difference), turbo condition, and countless others. I suppose that, just like me, the Volvo has also lost a little mojo as it has aged.
Tom Peacock SM 240 Aletes Chesapeake Bay with its tiny keyboard Hello Amelians! I am in the process of learning my boat. The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm? I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
Any suggestion?
--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain
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Bill, I also have an Amel about the same age as yours, and it too has the TMD22a. My engine would also run hot if I ran it much over 1800 rpm , at 2500 rpm for a few minutes I was seeing 217 degrees . I replaced the impeller ,insured water supply was unrestricted and cleaned the heat exchanger several times over a couple of years and yet still had overheating. I finally discovered my problem, and probably yours. The rubber caps on either end of the heat exchanger needed to be replaced and while ordering them online , on the side bar it showed a rubber washer/seal . I had no idea what it was for ,but bought it as well. I found a illustration showing this washer around the H/E core , when I took the core out and looked into the H/E housing ,towards the back I saw what I would call a small round bulkhead built into the housing ,slightly larger in diameter than the core itself. The seal closes off the opening forcing the cooling water to flow thru the core rather than much of it bypassing to core . So at low rpms the cooling was adequate to keep temps low ,but couldn't cool the water efficiently enough at higher rpms.
The washer had deteriorated and fallen off the core before I ever first took it apart, thus I never knew it existed ,I found small remnants of it later in the housing. So take your core out and see if the washer is on the core,I will bet it is gone, or pushed back too far and not sealing the opening. When you replace it ,slip it over the far end but not so far that it does not come into contact with the bulkhead opening ,let the bulkhead push it into its proper position as you slide the core into place.
One last tip to save a couple of hundred dollars. Buying the rubber end caps from any Volvo supplier was going to cost about $350. I found that if I ordered the caps for a Perkins M80 ,same caps ,it only cost about $55. ,the seal/washer was only a couple of dollars.
I hope this ends your overheating issues, I think it will.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123
Sassafras River ,Md.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Jul 5, 2020 7:31 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Cruise and Max RPM #solution
I have a 1995 Amel SM with a TMD22A and a MaxProp. I used a max cruising speed of 2,000 RPM when doing my circumnavigation, but usually tried to keep it at 1800RPM. I have cruised at 2600 RPM plus in an emergency for about 30 minutes, but the engine did get very hot. Hope this helps. I arrived at the 2,000RPM number by listening to the prior owner's advice.
Regards,
Bill Shaproski
S/v Pacific Cool
206-375-2787
Hello Amelians! I am in the process of learning my boat. The engine is a Volvo TMD22, with autoprop h6 propeller.
I found some threads here on the forum related to this topic, but none conclusive about what is the ideal cruise rpm regime, and what is the maximum rpm? I can't get more than 2100 rpm!
Any suggestion?
--
Jose Prieto
SV Wayag, SM 323
Currently Alicante, Spain
--
Bill Shaproski
Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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Hi Steve,
I see your hull number is very close to mine. Forward of the Calpeda AC Pump close to the bilge and the engine stringer should be a small white box with holes drilled in the top ad slats in the side. It is the high water alarm switch. Do you have this switch? If you do, is there a maker or model number on it?
If you could also send me photos and measurements , it would be greatly appreciated.
Are you the original owner?
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 KImberlite
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On July 6, 2020 at 2:01 AM "Steve Bell s/y Dusk SM378 via groups.io" <stevect@...> wrote:
Hi All .
An alternative to the noodle is to go to your local plumbing store and purchase copper pipe insulation.
These are the same as a noodle but with a hole already through it, the material also seemed more dense than a common swiming pool noodle.
We did this on our previous boat and puy some light chain through the insualtion for weight.
I havent tried it on Dusk yet but will get around to it sometime in the future but it worked on our previous yacht although not a 100% it certainly reduced the slapping.
Regards
Steve
s/y Dusk
sm #378
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Hi Steve,
I see your hull number is very close to mine. Forward of the Calpeda AC Pump close to the bilge and the engine stringer should be a small white box with holes drilled in the top ad slats in the side. It is the high water alarm switch. Do you have this switch? If you do, is there a maker or model number on it?
If you could also send me photos and measurements , it would be greatly appreciated.
Are you the original owner?
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 KImberlite
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On July 6, 2020 at 2:01 AM "Steve Bell s/y Dusk SM378 via groups.io" <stevect@...> wrote:
Hi All .
An alternative to the noodle is to go to your local plumbing store and purchase copper pipe insulation.
These are the same as a noodle but with a hole already through it, the material also seemed more dense than a common swiming pool noodle.
We did this on our previous boat and puy some light chain through the insualtion for weight.
I havent tried it on Dusk yet but will get around to it sometime in the future but it worked on our previous yacht although not a 100% it certainly reduced the slapping.
Regards
Steve
s/y Dusk
sm #378
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Steve Bell s/y Dusk SM378
Hi All . An alternative to the noodle is to go to your local plumbing store and purchase copper pipe insulation.
These are the same as a noodle but with a hole already through it, the material also seemed more dense than a common swiming pool noodle.
We did this on our previous boat and puy some light chain through the insualtion for weight.
I havent tried it on Dusk yet but will get around to it sometime in the future but it worked on our previous yacht although not a 100% it certainly reduced the slapping.
Regards
Steve s/y Dusk sm #378
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit
Was indeed referring to Bonfiglioli
For the manual furler, fresh water rinse works fine for me.
Cheers
Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM007, Opua, NZ
On 6/07/2020, at 5:22 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:
Hi JP, I think you are referring to the Bonfiglioli Gearbox. If not, are you saying that tapping a grease nipple into the mainsail MANUAL furler is acceptable? This is the one installed above the Bonfiglioli gearbox and mating with the mainsail extrusion. Regards Bill Shaproski In order to grease the gearboxes, you must install grease nipples
I drilled mine, tapped in my nipples, and voila...
Cheers
Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007, Opua NZ Hi Ken and Iris, Thanks for the clarification. It's helpful. Also, I note that Ken from Aquarius recommended grease to lubricate the furler, but you are recommending oil. Is the choice a matter of preference or what? Thanks again for your help. Regards Bill Shaproski
Hi Bill. Yes, I'm referring to the manual furler that the winch handle goes in. I don't know how you could add oil with it in place. Mine had never been serviced, and hearing about the shearing off of the foil, I wanted to remove it to check that anyway. Mine had holes that were elongated to about 15mm, so I cut it off and drilled new holes.
There was still oil in the gearbox, but only a cup or so, and it was black. After dismantling it and cleaning it up, I reassembled it and with it lying on the bench with the opening where the drive shaft goes in facing up, I poured in the oil and then finished assembling. Hope that helps, Kent On Jun 30, 2020 2:24 PM, Bill Shaproski < bill.shaproski@...> wrote: Hi Kent and Iris, Thanks much for the info. I just want to confirm that when you say you serviced the manual furler you are referring to the unit at the bottom of the main sail where you insert the winch handle to manually furl or unfurl the main when the electric system has failed. If yes, were you able to lubricate the inside of the unit with the unit in place. If so, how was this accomplished? I reviewed a YouTube video from Ken on Aquarius where he explains how to completely rebuild the unit which looks reasonably challenging. So if there's a way to lube it without disassembly I'd prefer that.
Thanks for your interest.
Regards Bill Shaproski Pacific Cool
Hi Bill. I just serviced my manual furler for the main. It is filled with a very heavy gear oil. I found only one place (in England) that sold it by the liter, otherwise it is sold in very large quantities and is very expensive. It was shipped to me in the USA in about a week at a reasonable price. A liter is enough to service it 2-3 times. It is Shell Oil Omala S4 WE320
After reinstalling it there was a small amount of oil on the deck the next day or two. It stopped leaking after a few days and hasn't been leaking for two weeks including furling and unfurling several times. What specifically did you want to know? Kent & Iris SM243 Kristy On Jun 18, 2020 9:00 AM, Bill Shaproski < bill.shaproski@...> wrote: I did find a group of messages from 2012 that address my question. But I would like to find someone who has done this recently to ask some specific questions.
Regards,
Bill Shaproski
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Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
-- Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
-- Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit
Bill Shaproski
Hi JP, I think you are referring to the Bonfiglioli Gearbox. If not, are you saying that tapping a grease nipple into the mainsail MANUAL furler is acceptable? This is the one installed above the Bonfiglioli gearbox and mating with the mainsail extrusion. Regards Bill Shaproski
In order to grease the gearboxes, you must install grease nipples
I drilled mine, tapped in my nipples, and voila...
Cheers
Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007, Opua NZ Hi Ken and Iris, Thanks for the clarification. It's helpful. Also, I note that Ken from Aquarius recommended grease to lubricate the furler, but you are recommending oil. Is the choice a matter of preference or what? Thanks again for your help. Regards Bill Shaproski
Hi Bill. Yes, I'm referring to the manual furler that the winch handle goes in. I don't know how you could add oil with it in place. Mine had never been serviced, and hearing about the shearing off of the foil, I wanted to remove it to check that anyway. Mine had holes that were elongated to about 15mm, so I cut it off and drilled new holes.
There was still oil in the gearbox, but only a cup or so, and it was black. After dismantling it and cleaning it up, I reassembled it and with it lying on the bench with the opening where the drive shaft goes in facing up, I poured in the oil and then finished assembling. Hope that helps, Kent On Jun 30, 2020 2:24 PM, Bill Shaproski < bill.shaproski@...> wrote: Hi Kent and Iris, Thanks much for the info. I just want to confirm that when you say you serviced the manual furler you are referring to the unit at the bottom of the main sail where you insert the winch handle to manually furl or unfurl the main when the electric system has failed. If yes, were you able to lubricate the inside of the unit with the unit in place. If so, how was this accomplished? I reviewed a YouTube video from Ken on Aquarius where he explains how to completely rebuild the unit which looks reasonably challenging. So if there's a way to lube it without disassembly I'd prefer that.
Thanks for your interest.
Regards Bill Shaproski Pacific Cool
Hi Bill. I just serviced my manual furler for the main. It is filled with a very heavy gear oil. I found only one place (in England) that sold it by the liter, otherwise it is sold in very large quantities and is very expensive. It was shipped to me in the USA in about a week at a reasonable price. A liter is enough to service it 2-3 times. It is Shell Oil Omala S4 WE320
After reinstalling it there was a small amount of oil on the deck the next day or two. It stopped leaking after a few days and hasn't been leaking for two weeks including furling and unfurling several times. What specifically did you want to know? Kent & Iris SM243 Kristy On Jun 18, 2020 9:00 AM, Bill Shaproski < bill.shaproski@...> wrote: I did find a group of messages from 2012 that address my question. But I would like to find someone who has done this recently to ask some specific questions.
Regards,
Bill Shaproski
--
Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
-- Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
-- Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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Re: Switch on Bilge Float Tube
I am now back in Germany in have your parcel. Thanks for that. But there is no manual and no installation pdf. Can you sent me one. Best regarts Heinz Von: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Im Auftrag von Diego de Miguel (Sailing Living Lab) Amel Sharki
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 22. April 2020 10:55
An: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Switch on Bilge Float Tube Hello Heinz,
Thank you very much for your interest into the IDN system.
Could you please send an e-mail to me at: diego.demiguel@... ? then I will reply your e-mail with more detailed info, technichal specifications, and will add to Alejando Samaniego (CEO of IDN) in copy. Thus he will be able to add more info if needed.
Thanks again for you interest mate!
Best Regards,
Diego.
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit
In order to grease the gearboxes, you must install grease nipples
I drilled mine, tapped in my nipples, and voila...
Cheers
Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007, Opua NZ
On 6/07/2020, at 12:13 PM, Bill Shaproski <bill.shaproski@...> wrote:
Hi Ken and Iris, Thanks for the clarification. It's helpful. Also, I note that Ken from Aquarius recommended grease to lubricate the furler, but you are recommending oil. Is the choice a matter of preference or what? Thanks again for your help. Regards Bill Shaproski
Hi Bill. Yes, I'm referring to the manual furler that the winch handle goes in. I don't know how you could add oil with it in place. Mine had never been serviced, and hearing about the shearing off of the foil, I wanted to remove it to check that anyway. Mine had holes that were elongated to about 15mm, so I cut it off and drilled new holes.
There was still oil in the gearbox, but only a cup or so, and it was black. After dismantling it and cleaning it up, I reassembled it and with it lying on the bench with the opening where the drive shaft goes in facing up, I poured in the oil and then finished assembling. Hope that helps, Kent On Jun 30, 2020 2:24 PM, Bill Shaproski < bill.shaproski@...> wrote: Hi Kent and Iris, Thanks much for the info. I just want to confirm that when you say you serviced the manual furler you are referring to the unit at the bottom of the main sail where you insert the winch handle to manually furl or unfurl the main when the electric system has failed. If yes, were you able to lubricate the inside of the unit with the unit in place. If so, how was this accomplished? I reviewed a YouTube video from Ken on Aquarius where he explains how to completely rebuild the unit which looks reasonably challenging. So if there's a way to lube it without disassembly I'd prefer that.
Thanks for your interest.
Regards Bill Shaproski Pacific Cool
Hi Bill. I just serviced my manual furler for the main. It is filled with a very heavy gear oil. I found only one place (in England) that sold it by the liter, otherwise it is sold in very large quantities and is very expensive. It was shipped to me in the USA in about a week at a reasonable price. A liter is enough to service it 2-3 times. It is Shell Oil Omala S4 WE320
After reinstalling it there was a small amount of oil on the deck the next day or two. It stopped leaking after a few days and hasn't been leaking for two weeks including furling and unfurling several times. What specifically did you want to know? Kent & Iris SM243 Kristy On Jun 18, 2020 9:00 AM, Bill Shaproski < bill.shaproski@...> wrote: I did find a group of messages from 2012 that address my question. But I would like to find someone who has done this recently to ask some specific questions.
Regards,
Bill Shaproski
--
Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
-- Bill Shaproski Cell: +1-206-375-2787
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