1. main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
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Re: Amel parts

Bill Shaproski
 

I ordered some parts from Amel last week and they arrived two days later.  
Regards
Bill

On Wed, Jul 15, 2020, 12:02 AM Elaine Leishman via groups.io <leishman.elaine=yahoo.com.au@groups.io> wrote:
Does anyone on the forum know whether Amel is open for business at the moment, or on summer holidays.  I have emailed Maud at sav@... for availability for some parts and have had no response.
Thanks,
Elaine SM2000 Nebo No. 251

Re: Sand Blasting vs. Soda

Patrick McAneny
 

Eric, I would think with 13 gallons you would be able to coat the boat 4 times. Did it take multiple coats to get it down to the gel coat,was it the kind of stripper you place plastic over ? It seems like so much work,that I would like to have it sand blasted and be done with it,but on the other hand I don't want to damage the gel coat. There is always pros &cons ,decisions are never easy and obvious,at least not for me.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...>
Sent: Thu, Jul 16, 2020 2:43 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sand Blasting vs. Soda

I preferred to do it the old fashioned way. I brought Kimberlite down to gel coat using 13 gallons of chemical stripper. It is tedious and 100% safe. You just don't know how good the operator of the soda blaster is. He might have 20 years of experience-- doing it the way. All the operator of the blaster has to do is lose concentration and blast right through the gelcoat and into Amels unique interior barrier coating.
Just a suspenders and belt solution. after washing the remnants of the stripper off , i had the boat sanded and applied 4 coats of Interprotect.
Kimberlite should now be good for another 18 years. Fair Winds
Eric

On July 16, 2020 at 2:33 PM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

Pat,

Soda Blasting is significantly less aggressive then Sand Blasting and is much less likely to cause damage to your gelcoat.  Personally, I would not have my boat bottom Sand Blasted.

When I was considering what to do with Cara's bottom to remove all the layers of old anti-fouling, I contacted Olivier Beaute.  Olivier had done our pre-purchase survey and as part of the survey report he had recommended that we do something to remove the large accumulation of old antifouling at our next haul out.  When I asked him about Soda Blasting, he wrote:

"This is a good way to remove the old anti-fouling coats, as long as the operator is careful and does not insist too much on a specific area. In fact, as soon as the white gel-coat can be seen, the operator must move its tool. With 22 years of practice, these people surely know what they're doing.  What would be bad is to remove the gel-coat and get to the GRP, which would mean the glass scales coat is affected. This sometimes happens with dry sand- blasting, more rarely with wet-sand  blasting."

I also asked about adding a barrier coat after Soda Blasting, and he replied:

 "AMEL spreads polyester resin with glass scales, in the mold, after the gel coat is sprayed and before the first glass cloth. No epoxy as polyester and epoxy are not compatible when wet.  This is supposed to fight water penetration and it works rather good.  The epoxy coat as a « barrier » is not necessary because you already have one. Moreover, before you could apply epoxy, you would need to wait for the hull to be very dry.  All you need before the anti fouling is a coat of the primer recommended by the anti fouling manufacturer."

We decided to do two coats of Interprotect 2000e before applying out bottom coat anyway since we had her down to gelcoat for what we hope is the only time in our ownership.  

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

 
Re: Sand Blasting vs. Soda

eric freedman
 

I preferred to do it the old fashioned way. I brought Kimberlite down to gel coat using 13 gallons of chemical stripper. It is tedious and 100% safe. You just don't know how good the operator of the soda blaster is. He might have 20 years of experience-- doing it the way. All the operator of the blaster has to do is lose concentration and blast right through the gelcoat and into Amels unique interior barrier coating.
Just a suspenders and belt solution. after washing the remnants of the stripper off , i had the boat sanded and applied 4 coats of Interprotect.
Kimberlite should now be good for another 18 years. Fair Winds
Eric

On July 16, 2020 at 2:33 PM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

Pat,

Soda Blasting is significantly less aggressive then Sand Blasting and is much less likely to cause damage to your gelcoat.  Personally, I would not have my boat bottom Sand Blasted.

When I was considering what to do with Cara's bottom to remove all the layers of old anti-fouling, I contacted Olivier Beaute.  Olivier had done our pre-purchase survey and as part of the survey report he had recommended that we do something to remove the large accumulation of old antifouling at our next haul out.  When I asked him about Soda Blasting, he wrote:

"This is a good way to remove the old anti-fouling coats, as long as the operator is careful and does not insist too much on a specific area. In fact, as soon as the white gel-coat can be seen, the operator must move its tool. With 22 years of practice, these people surely know what they're doing.  What would be bad is to remove the gel-coat and get to the GRP, which would mean the glass scales coat is affected. This sometimes happens with dry sand- blasting, more rarely with wet-sand  blasting."

I also asked about adding a barrier coat after Soda Blasting, and he replied:

 "AMEL spreads polyester resin with glass scales, in the mold, after the gel coat is sprayed and before the first glass cloth. No epoxy as polyester and epoxy are not compatible when wet.  This is supposed to fight water penetration and it works rather good.  The epoxy coat as a « barrier » is not necessary because you already have one. Moreover, before you could apply epoxy, you would need to wait for the hull to be very dry.  All you need before the anti fouling is a coat of the primer recommended by the anti fouling manufacturer."

We decided to do two coats of Interprotect 2000e before applying out bottom coat anyway since we had her down to gelcoat for what we hope is the only time in our ownership.  

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

 
Re: Sand Blasting vs. Soda

Mark McGovern
 

Pat,

Soda Blasting is significantly less aggressive then Sand Blasting and is much less likely to cause damage to your gelcoat.  Personally, I would not have my boat bottom Sand Blasted.

When I was considering what to do with Cara's bottom to remove all the layers of old anti-fouling, I contacted Olivier Beaute.  Olivier had done our pre-purchase survey and as part of the survey report he had recommended that we do something to remove the large accumulation of old antifouling at our next haul out.  When I asked him about Soda Blasting, he wrote:

"This is a good way to remove the old anti-fouling coats, as long as the operator is careful and does not insist too much on a specific area. In fact, as soon as the white gel-coat can be seen, the operator must move its tool. With 22 years of practice, these people surely know what they're doing.  What would be bad is to remove the gel-coat and get to the GRP, which would mean the glass scales coat is affected. This sometimes happens with dry sand-blasting, more rarely with wet-sand blasting."

I also asked about adding a barrier coat after Soda Blasting, and he replied:

 "AMEL spreads polyester resin with glass scales, in the mold, after the gel coat is sprayed and before the first glass cloth. No epoxy as polyester and epoxy are not compatible when wet.  This is supposed to fight water penetration and it works rather good.  The epoxy coat as a « barrier » is not necessary because you already have one. Moreover, before you could apply epoxy, you would need to wait for the hull to be very dry.  All you need before the anti fouling is a coat of the primer recommended by the anti fouling manufacturer."

We decided to do two coats of Interprotect 2000e before applying out bottom coat anyway since we had her down to gelcoat for what we hope is the only time in our ownership.  

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA
Re: Stainless steel arch Canaries

Mohammad Shirloo
 

That is great Paul. Do you mind sharing the manufacturer and model number of the panels you used and the cost of the panels?

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Stascavage via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2020 10:33 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Stainless steel arch Canaries

 

Hello Mohammad

Yes, that is at 24 volts.  So far the output has been exceeding my expectations.  Feel free to reach out with any additional questions.


All the Best,

 

Paul Stascavage 

S/V Rita Kathryn  SM #466

 

RitaKathryn.com

 

Currently Exploring City Island 
Sand Blasting vs. Soda

Patrick McAneny
 

My boat's topsides are about to be painted with awlcraft ,and I would like to remove a couple of layers of old bottom paint prior to that being done. The marina only does sand blasting. I have gotten the impression that soda is preferable to sand ,but not sure if this is true. The marina manager assured me that they can sand blast without damaging the gelcoat. He also recommended three coats of barrier coating prior to bottom paint.
Is there any good reason not to have a boat sand blasted ? 
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans 
Re: Stainless steel arch Canaries

Paul Stascavage
 

Hello Mohammad

Yes, that is at 24 volts.  So far the output has been exceeding my expectations.  Feel free to reach out with any additional questions.


All the Best,

 
Paul Stascavage 
S/V Rita Kathryn  SM #466
 
RitaKathryn.com
 
Currently Exploring City Island 
Re: Stainless steel arch Canaries

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Paul;

 

I read your blog, thanks for the link. Is the 100-150 amp hours/day you are seeing at 24Volts?  That would translate to 2.4KW to 3.6KW yield/day from your 680W total solar array. Does this sound about right?

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Stascavage via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2020 10:16 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Stainless steel arch Canaries

 

Hello Kent

i hope all is well with you and Iris. 


We have 680 watts on the Bimini (four 170 watt panels). 340 Port and 340 Sartboard. The panels on each side are connected in series with each side going to its own controller. We also move the boom to the side while at anchor and although I do get some shading at times it doesn’t seem to be a big issue. Output varies depending on numerous factors but we are typically seeing between 100 and 150 amp hours per day. 


I’m betting you would see a significant improvement if you were to add a second controller. 


All the Best,

 

Paul Stascavage 

S/V Rita Kathryn  SM #466

 

RitaKathryn.com

 

Currently Exploring City Island 
Re: Stainless steel arch Canaries

Paul Stascavage
 

Hello Kent

i hope all is well with you and Iris. 


We have 680 watts on the Bimini (four 170 watt panels). 340 Port and 340 Sartboard. The panels on each side are connected in series with each side going to its own controller. We also move the boom to the side while at anchor and although I do get some shading at times it doesn’t seem to be a big issue. Output varies depending on numerous factors but we are typically seeing between 100 and 150 amp hours per day. 


I’m betting you would see a significant improvement if you were to add a second controller. 


All the Best,

 
Paul Stascavage 
S/V Rita Kathryn  SM #466
 
RitaKathryn.com
 
Currently Exploring City Island 
Re: Stainless steel arch Canaries

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Thanks Kent. Trying hard not to affect the design and lines of the 54 with an Arch. Even though the stern is the most logical place for it. I think some of the new solar panels are less sensitive to shadow and multiple controllers, stratigcally connected, should produce better results.  Still a work in progress.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2020 9:33 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Stainless steel arch Canaries

 

Hi Mohammad,

I put 600W of hard panels on my arch, and 250W soft panels on my cockpit enclosure. The soft ones are mounted aft of the boom, but still contribute only 7% of my total solar charging experience. When at anchor I swing the boom off to the side, but still don't see significant output.  There's almost always a shadow from a shroud or mast on one of the panels. I have both of the panels on the same controller, I would probably get better output if they were on separate controllers.

 

As currently configured, the soft panels aren't worth the money and effort. The hard panels on the arch are great.

 

Kent and Iris

SM 243

Kristy

 

On Jul 16, 2020 10:56 AM, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hi Paul;

 

Can you please share your experience with your installation on your bimini top? This is the location we are looking at for our solar panels, but are concerned about the shadow effect of the boom and sails on power generation. The following are relevant to our design and would appreciate some information about your installation:

 

  1. What manufacturer and type of solar did you use?
  2. How many panels and what is the total rated wattage?
  3. How much is your daily average amp hour production on a normal day.
  4. How many solar controllers ?
  5. Parallel or series connection of the panels?

 

We are trying to decide whether to go with a soft or hardtop for the panels. Any issues with your installation or anything you would do different? If you have some pictures, that would help.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Stascavage via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2020 6:22 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Stainless steel arch Canaries

 

Andy,

 

Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the group. You will find a wealth of information and help here from some very knowledgeable and like minded sailors. 

 

I was given some very good advice when we first purchased our SM and that was to wait at least a year before making any changes to the original design/systems. We waited at least two years and I am glad we did. 

 

Likewise I wanted to add solar when we purchased but I heeded the advice. 

 

The waiting allowed us to evaluate whether we really wanted solar, determine what our normal energy needs were, and to see enough other Amel installations to know whether we wanted hard panels on an arch, the rails, etc or to go with flexible panels somewhere else. 

 

We opted for flexible panels on our Bimini top. 

 

I am so glad we waited as I now have a system that I am 100 percent happy with and one that is exceeding our expectations on power generation. 

 

You can read about our project and install here:

 

 

All the Best,

 

Paul Stascavage 

S/V Rita Kathryn  SM #466

 

RitaKathryn.com

 

Currently Exploring City Island 

 

 
Re: Stainless steel arch Canaries

karkauai
 

Hi Mohammad,
I put 600W of hard panels on my arch, and 250W soft panels on my cockpit enclosure. The soft ones are mounted aft of the boom, but still contribute only 7% of my total solar charging experience. When at anchor I swing the boom off to the side, but still don't see significant output.  There's almost always a shadow from a shroud or mast on one of the panels. I have both of the panels on the same controller, I would probably get better output if they were on separate controllers.

As currently configured, the soft panels aren't worth the money and effort. The hard panels on the arch are great.

Kent and Iris
SM 243
Kristy

On Jul 16, 2020 10:56 AM, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hi Paul;

 

Can you please share your experience with your installation on your bimini top? This is the location we are looking at for our solar panels, but are concerned about the shadow effect of the boom and sails on power generation. The following are relevant to our design and would appreciate some information about your installation:

 

  1. What manufacturer and type of solar did you use?
  2. How many panels and what is the total rated wattage?
  3. How much is your daily average amp hour production on a normal day.
  4. How many solar controllers ?
  5. Parallel or series connection of the panels?

 

We are trying to decide whether to go with a soft or hardtop for the panels. Any issues with your installation or anything you would do different? If you have some pictures, that would help.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Stascavage via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2020 6:22 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Stainless steel arch Canaries

 

Andy,

 

Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the group. You will find a wealth of information and help here from some very knowledgeable and like minded sailors. 

 

I was given some very good advice when we first purchased our SM and that was to wait at least a year before making any changes to the original design/systems. We waited at least two years and I am glad we did. 

 

Likewise I wanted to add solar when we purchased but I heeded the advice. 

 

The waiting allowed us to evaluate whether we really wanted solar, determine what our normal energy needs were, and to see enough other Amel installations to know whether we wanted hard panels on an arch, the rails, etc or to go with flexible panels somewhere else. 

 

We opted for flexible panels on our Bimini top. 

 

I am so glad we waited as I now have a system that I am 100 percent happy with and one that is exceeding our expectations on power generation. 

 

You can read about our project and install here:

 

 

All the Best,

 

Paul Stascavage 

S/V Rita Kathryn  SM #466

 

RitaKathryn.com

 

Currently Exploring City Island 

 
Re: Nikimat.com is now SuperMaramu2000.com with all the illustrations

Paul Stascavage
 

Bill

i would like to second your comments. Here, here!

All the Best,
 
Paul Stascavage 
S/V Rita Kathryn  SM #466
 
RitaKathryn.com
 
Currently Exploring City Island 
Re: Stainless steel arch Canaries

Paul Stascavage
 

Hello Mohammad,

I would be more than happy to answer your questions and share any information that may be helpful. 


I would suggest you first read the following post which will answer many or your questions and possibly raise a few more. 

You can read about our project and install here:
 
 
After reading the post from the link above, feel free to ask any questions you have. 

All the Best,
 
Paul Stascavage 
S/V Rita Kathryn  SM #466
 
RitaKathryn.com
 
Currently Exploring City Island 
Re: Stainless steel arch Canaries

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Paul;

 

Can you please share your experience with your installation on your bimini top? This is the location we are looking at for our solar panels, but are concerned about the shadow effect of the boom and sails on power generation. The following are relevant to our design and would appreciate some information about your installation:

 

  1. What manufacturer and type of solar did you use?
  2. How many panels and what is the total rated wattage?
  3. How much is your daily average amp hour production on a normal day.
  4. How many solar controllers ?
  5. Parallel or series connection of the panels?

 

We are trying to decide whether to go with a soft or hardtop for the panels. Any issues with your installation or anything you would do different? If you have some pictures, that would help.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Stascavage via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2020 6:22 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Stainless steel arch Canaries

 

Andy,

 

Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the group. You will find a wealth of information and help here from some very knowledgeable and like minded sailors. 

 

I was given some very good advice when we first purchased our SM and that was to wait at least a year before making any changes to the original design/systems. We waited at least two years and I am glad we did. 

 

Likewise I wanted to add solar when we purchased but I heeded the advice. 

 

The waiting allowed us to evaluate whether we really wanted solar, determine what our normal energy needs were, and to see enough other Amel installations to know whether we wanted hard panels on an arch, the rails, etc or to go with flexible panels somewhere else. 

 

We opted for flexible panels on our Bimini top. 

 

I am so glad we waited as I now have a system that I am 100 percent happy with and one that is exceeding our expectations on power generation. 

 

You can read about our project and install here:

 

 

All the Best,

 

Paul Stascavage 

S/V Rita Kathryn  SM #466

 

RitaKathryn.com

 

Currently Exploring City Island 

 
Re: Climma compressor turning off randomly

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

Hi Billy,

 

When the unit shuts off does it restart automatically?  If it is an automatic restart then some safety circuit within the unit is shutting the system down.  I am not specifically familiar with this unit but there may have a temperature sensor clamped to the exterior of the raw water heat exchanger, this will shut the unit down if there is low raw water flow to prevent overheating of the system.  Additionally, in many chiller systems there is a low flow detector in the chilled water portion of the unit.  The idea is to prevent freezing of the chilled water in the heat exchanger should the chilled water pump fail.

 

When the unit shuts down check to see if there is power at the main junction of the air-conditioning system.  If not, trace the problem backwards to the power distribution panel.  Also, give the system a very close visual inspection with a good light to look for anything out of the ordinary.  With the main power off verify the electrical connectors are plugged in or screwed down properly.  Is there a troubleshooting guide that provides clues to what the problem should be with this condition?  I hope some of these ideas are useful, good luck with your problem.
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54
Re: Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

Lance Leonard
 

We recently purchased Minerva, Hull #135. It came with a small RIB that we store on the mizzen deck (no boomvang). We will be retrieving our PortaBote from California this winter. Stores nicely along the rail, about the same footprint as a large surfboard. Not the most attractive option but you will never loose it at the dingy dock.
Re: Stainless steel arch Canaries

Paul Stascavage
 

Andy,

Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the group. You will find a wealth of information and help here from some very knowledgeable and like minded sailors. 

I was given some very good advice when we first purchased our SM and that was to wait at least a year before making any changes to the original design/systems. We waited at least two years and I am glad we did. 

Likewise I wanted to add solar when we purchased but I heeded the advice. 

The waiting allowed us to evaluate whether we really wanted solar, determine what our normal energy needs were, and to see enough other Amel installations to know whether we wanted hard panels on an arch, the rails, etc or to go with flexible panels somewhere else. 

We opted for flexible panels on our Bimini top. 

I am so glad we waited as I now have a system that I am 100 percent happy with and one that is exceeding our expectations on power generation. 

You can read about our project and install here:


All the Best,

Paul Stascavage 
S/V Rita Kathryn  SM #466

RitaKathryn.com

Currently Exploring City Island 
Re: Stainless steel arch Canaries

Aras Grinius
 

There are quite a few messages about arches.  You might try doing a search in the archives.

Aras
S/V FIASCO
Sharki #163 1988


On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 4:51 AM Andy Manikata <4manikata@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,
looks like we have closed the deal for our SM yesterday 😃
The boat is in Lanzarote at the moment.
We want to have solar panels on an arch and I wonder if anyone knows someone who does proper stainless steel works somewhere on the Canaries.
Thanks a lot
Andy



--
Aras Grinius
Re: Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

Aras Grinius
 

I traded in our inflatable for a Portland Pudgy. She tows quite nicely, however on longer passages I do have to mount it on the foredeck.  AS with the Maramu,  the Sharki's stern tapers quite a bit and the aft deck is not quite big enough to stow the Pudgy there.  So far I've been  stowing it upside down.  It makes it a bit harder to load and unload off the deck. I'm working on building a new cradle that would allow me to stow upright.

One other option I'm thinking about are low profile dink davits made of carbon fiber [the mizzen boom overhangs transom].  The davits would help greatly on short passages and make it easier to move boat around in tight places and improve visibility. Does anyone know of an outfit that works with carbon fiber?

Aras Grinius
S/V FIASCO
Sharki #163 1988

On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 2:15 PM smiles bernard via groups.io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi there

I’d be really interested to hear of others Maramu dinghy choice wrt stowage
The transom of the Maramu is quite a bit narrower than the SM and later models - as such davits don’t feel right as any dink would overhang the sides If the boat a lot

Plus I have a much treasured Hydrovane on the back

We currently carry an inflatable and also a nesting affair I made

The nesting dinghy stows Inverted under the mizzen boom but that space is not big enough for the inflatable which I pack up and stow in the fwd locker

Really interested in the options people have explored.

Does anyone mount their dinghy right side up on the deck on the foredeck? I’ve seen a few SMs with this setup but feels tight re space on the Maramu

All the very best

Miles
Maramu 162


Looks like we are heading off as





--
Aras Grinius
Re: Stainless steel arch Canaries

CW Bill Rouse
 

Congratulations again. You have found a very good SM. I hope that you and Antonija enjoy your years ahead.

Fabricating an arch, especially one that you will want takes lots of experience. I am not sure if you will find what you are looking for in the Canaries. My recommendation is, in addition to soliciting 3rd party recommendations, is to have any fabricator in the Canaries supply you with photos of past projects and contact information for his client(s) for references. Fabricating and welding stainless steel is as much an "art" as it is a skill.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 3:51 AM Andy Manikata <4manikata@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,
looks like we have closed the deal for our SM yesterday 😃
The boat is in Lanzarote at the moment.
We want to have solar panels on an arch and I wonder if anyone knows someone who does proper stainless steel works somewhere on the Canaries.
Thanks a lot
Andy

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