Date   

Re: Santorin Bow Thruster/genoa furler breaker.

ste.dente
 

Hallo Mark,
my boat is a Santorin # 93, named Euploia. It’s on hard in Bocca di Magra-Italy
Cheers

Stefania Dente

Il giorno 17 lug 2020, alle ore 23:52, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> ha scritto:

Hi What Model and number is your boat?
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376


-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io]
On Behalf Of ste.dente
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2020 2:34 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Photos











Stefania Dente







Re: Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

Scott Williams
 

You should maybe check out the wee unit they have on YouTube’s “Sailing Florence” - it's a beautiful thing, if you like sailing a dinghy…


Scott
Future A50 owner





Sent from Surface

From: smiles bernard via groups.io
Sent: ‎Saturday‎, ‎18‎ ‎July‎ ‎2020 ‎3‎:‎48‎ ‎AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar

Wow that’s light!
When offshore do you use chicks on the deck and deflate or just strap it down inflated?

Likewise I’ve never seen the pudgy before - love a dinghy with a sail !

All the best




On 17 Jul 2020, at 14:31, INUS - BUSCH via groups.io <inusbusch@...> wrote:



@ Aras:  

I have never seen a Portland pudgy, it looks nice and sails!

What I have is a UL 270 Aluminum from 3d tender, inflatable with aluminium bottom, which fits on the fore deck of my sharki, weight is only 28 kg!

 

Dieter

Fal-lera, Sharki #135

 

Von: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Im Auftrag von Aras
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 16. Juli 2020 15:16
An: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

 

I traded in our inflatable for a Portland Pudgy. She tows quite nicely, however on longer passages I do have to mount it on the foredeck.  AS with the Maramu,  the Sharki's stern tapers quite a bit and the aft deck is not quite big enough to stow the Pudgy there.  So far I've been  stowing it upside down.  It makes it a bit harder to load and unload off the deck. I'm working on building a new cradle that would allow me to stow upright.

 

One other option I'm thinking about are low profile dink davits made of carbon fiber [the mizzen boom overhangs transom].  The davits would help greatly on short passages and make it easier to move boat around in tight places and improve visibility. Does anyone know of an outfit that works with carbon fiber?

 

Aras Grinius

S/V FIASCO

Sharki #163 1988

 

On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 2:15 PM smiles bernard via groups.io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi there

I’d be really interested to hear of others Maramu dinghy choice wrt stowage
The transom of the Maramu is quite a bit narrower than the SM and later models - as such davits don’t feel right as any dink would overhang the sides If the boat a lot

Plus I have a much treasured Hydrovane on the back

We currently carry an inflatable and also a nesting affair I made

The nesting dinghy stows Inverted under the mizzen boom but that space is not big enough for the inflatable which I pack up and stow in the fwd locker

Really interested in the options people have explored.

Does anyone mount their dinghy right side up on the deck on the foredeck? I’ve seen a few SMs with this setup but feels tight re space on the Maramu

All the very best

Miles
Maramu 162


Looks like we are heading off as




--

Aras Grinius


Re: Santorin Bow Thruster/genoa furler breaker.

eric freedman
 

Hi What Model and number is your boat?
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io]
On Behalf Of ste.dente
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2020 2:34 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Photos











Stefania Dente


Sand Blasting vs. Soda

eric freedman
 

The pink holes in the hull were made by the factory to blow fresh air into the hull to ventilate it for the workers.

I used 4 coats of Interprotect . then 2 coats of hard epoxy and then 2 coats of ablative paint.

Last photo is of the chemical we used.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2020 4:20 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sand Blasting vs. Soda

 

Well, in this case, I am more old-fashion than Eric! Scrape, then sand.

image.png

Image removed by sender.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

Image removed by sender.Image removed by sender.Image removed by sender.

 

View My Training Calendar

Image removed by sender.

 

 

On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 2:38 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Eric, I would think with 13 gallons you would be able to coat the boat 4 times. Did it take multiple coats to get it down to the gel coat,was it the kind of stripper you place plastic over ? It seems like so much work,that I would like to have it sand blasted and be done with it,but on the other hand I don't want to damage the gel coat. There is always pros &cons ,decisions are never easy and obvious,at least not for me.

Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...>
Sent: Thu, Jul 16, 2020 2:43 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sand Blasting vs. Soda

I preferred to do it the old fashioned way. I brought Kimberlite down to gel coat using 13 gallons of chemical stripper. It is tedious and 100% safe. You just don't know how good the operator of the soda blaster is. He might have 20 years of experience-- doing it the way. All the operator of the blaster has to do is lose concentration and blast right through the gelcoat and into Amels unique interior barrier coating.
Just a suspenders and belt solution. after washing the remnants of the stripper off , i had the boat sanded and applied 4 coats of Interprotect.
Kimberlite should now be good for another 18 years. Fair Winds
Eric


On July 16, 2020 at 2:33 PM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

Pat,

Soda Blasting is significantly less aggressive then Sand Blasting and is much less likely to cause damage to your gelcoat.  Personally, I would not have my boat bottom Sand Blasted.

When I was considering what to do with Cara's bottom to remove all the layers of old anti-fouling, I contacted Olivier Beaute.  Olivier had done our pre-purchase survey and as part of the survey report he had recommended that we do something to remove the large accumulation of old antifouling at our next haul out.  When I asked him about Soda Blasting, he wrote:

"This is a good way to remove the old anti-fouling coats, as long as the operator is careful and does not insist too much on a specific area. In fact, as soon as the white gel-coat can be seen, the operator must move its tool. With 22 years of practice, these people surely know what they're doing.  What would be bad is to remove the gel-coat and get to the GRP, which would mean the glass scales coat is affected. This sometimes happens with dry sand- blasting, more rarely with wet-sand  blasting."

I also asked about adding a barrier coat after Soda Blasting, and he replied:

 "AMEL spreads polyester resin with glass scales, in the mold, after the gel coat is sprayed and before the first glass cloth. No epoxy as polyester and epoxy are not compatible when wet.  This is supposed to fight water penetration and it works rather good.  The epoxy coat as a « barrier » is not necessary because you already have one. Moreover, before you could apply epoxy, you would need to wait for the hull to be very dry.  All you need before the anti fouling is a coat of the primer recommended by the anti fouling manufacturer."

We decided to do two coats of Interprotect 2000e before applying out bottom coat anyway since we had her down to gelcoat for what we hope is the only time in our ownership.  


--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


 


Re: Santorin Bow Thruster/genoa furler breaker.

Ian Park
 

I think it has been added by a previous owner. My hull is later - no. 96. Nice idea!

Ian


On 17 Jul 2020, at 19:53, Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via groups.io <sangaris@...> wrote:

Thanks, Stefania - It would seem Amel added the circuit breaker some time after my hull #68 (1992) and your # 93 - I think Ian was closer to mine.
Craig


Re: Santorin Bow Thruster/genoa furler breaker.

Craig Briggs
 

Thanks, Stefania - It would seem Amel added the circuit breaker some time after my hull #68 (1992) and your # 93 - I think Ian was closer to mine.
Craig


Santorin Bow Thruster/genoa furler breaker.

ste.dente
 

Stefania Dente


Bow Truster/ Furler photos

ste.dente
 

Here they are









Stefania Dente


Re: Santorin Bow Thruster/genoa furler breaker.

ste.dente
 

Hallo SN Amelians,
bere are the photo of my bow truster “station” with the electrical connections. If you need more infos, I’ll be glad to help.
Fair wind

Stefania Dente
SN 93
Bocca di Magra (Italy)


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

Hi Joel,

Thanks for that! 
We’ve had Meditation for 20 years now, but I guess the offer was made to the previous owner.
We have serviced the transmission before, this is the first time we have a problem with the seal...we have had loads of other problems with the drive unit though...!!!
Best regards,
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 in 1990


On 17 Jul 2020, at 8:05 PM, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:



That is one of the early aluminum transmissions that were very prone to failure. Amel offered to replace them all at Amel’s expense. Some of these affected boats had been resold and didn’t get the memo. Some people decided that ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it’ and didn’t take the replacement. Over the years I was given several different hull numbers that supposedly were the cut off point for the aluminum transmissions. In every case, # 29 was included in the aluminum transmission equipped boats.

 

I hope this is helpful.

 

All the best,

Joel

 

           JOEL F. POTTER ~ CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST, L.L.C.

                                         The Experienced AMEL Guy

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                  Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2020 11:31 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] SM 1990 drive unit seals

 

I did not understand your original email.

 

Apparently, you have the original aluminum C-Drive. I have never seen one of these. Someone told me that Amel replaced these. I do not know if that replacement story is accurate or not.

 

I do not believe that I can help you.

 

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:11 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them.

We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.

 

Many thanks,

Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990



On 17 Jul 2020, at 6:04 PM, Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi via groups.io <helenmi57=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill,

 

Thanks for the prompt reply!

Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 

It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!

Thanks again 

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990

 

<image0.jpeg>

<image1.jpeg>

 



On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:



The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.

 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

smiles bernard
 

Wow that’s light!
When offshore do you use chicks on the deck and deflate or just strap it down inflated?

Likewise I’ve never seen the pudgy before - love a dinghy with a sail !

All the best




On 17 Jul 2020, at 14:31, INUS - BUSCH via groups.io <inusbusch@...> wrote:



@ Aras:  

I have never seen a Portland pudgy, it looks nice and sails!

What I have is a UL 270 Aluminum from 3d tender, inflatable with aluminium bottom, which fits on the fore deck of my sharki, weight is only 28 kg!

 

Dieter

Fal-lera, Sharki #135

 

Von: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Im Auftrag von Aras
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 16. Juli 2020 15:16
An: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

 

I traded in our inflatable for a Portland Pudgy. She tows quite nicely, however on longer passages I do have to mount it on the foredeck.  AS with the Maramu,  the Sharki's stern tapers quite a bit and the aft deck is not quite big enough to stow the Pudgy there.  So far I've been  stowing it upside down.  It makes it a bit harder to load and unload off the deck. I'm working on building a new cradle that would allow me to stow upright.

 

One other option I'm thinking about are low profile dink davits made of carbon fiber [the mizzen boom overhangs transom].  The davits would help greatly on short passages and make it easier to move boat around in tight places and improve visibility. Does anyone know of an outfit that works with carbon fiber?

 

Aras Grinius

S/V FIASCO

Sharki #163 1988

 

On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 2:15 PM smiles bernard via groups.io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi there

I’d be really interested to hear of others Maramu dinghy choice wrt stowage
The transom of the Maramu is quite a bit narrower than the SM and later models - as such davits don’t feel right as any dink would overhang the sides If the boat a lot

Plus I have a much treasured Hydrovane on the back

We currently carry an inflatable and also a nesting affair I made

The nesting dinghy stows Inverted under the mizzen boom but that space is not big enough for the inflatable which I pack up and stow in the fwd locker

Really interested in the options people have explored.

Does anyone mount their dinghy right side up on the deck on the foredeck? I’ve seen a few SMs with this setup but feels tight re space on the Maramu

All the very best

Miles
Maramu 162


Looks like we are heading off as




--

Aras Grinius


Re: Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

INUS - BUSCH
 

Aras,

 

sorry, I do not have davits.

BTW until now I haven’t seen a solution, which could please me.

But I am very interested in what you are planning.

Dieter
Fal-lera, Sharki #135

 

 

Von: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Im Auftrag von Aras
Gesendet: Freitag, 17. Juli 2020 16:03
An: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

 

Dieter,

We studied options regarding a hard shell dinghy vs a rib vs inflatable.  The Pudgy can be fitted as a life boat. [currently working towards certification by USCG].  That means I can sell my liferaft and free up some space in my locker.  Wife likes the fact that our Honda 2.3 hp  weighs 30lbs [ just under 14 kg] can be hoisted by her.  And yes sails quite nicely.

Downsides, is that it weighs altogether fully loaded 59 kg (130lbs), a bit heavy and stowing looks to be a challenge.  I've seen some davits for Sharki's on Yachtworld, but I'm not sold on them quite yet.   So if you have davits, I surely like to see how they are attached.

 

Aras

SV FIASCO

Sharki #163 1988

 

On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 9:31 AM INUS - BUSCH via groups.io <inusbusch=yahoo.de@groups.io> wrote:

@ Aras:  

I have never seen a Portland pudgy, it looks nice and sails!

What I have is a UL 270 Aluminum from 3d tender, inflatable with aluminium bottom, which fits on the fore deck of my sharki, weight is only 28 kg!

 

Dieter

Fal-lera, Sharki #135

 

Von: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Im Auftrag von Aras
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 16. Juli 2020 15:16
An: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

 

I traded in our inflatable for a Portland Pudgy. She tows quite nicely, however on longer passages I do have to mount it on the foredeck.  AS with the Maramu,  the Sharki's stern tapers quite a bit and the aft deck is not quite big enough to stow the Pudgy there.  So far I've been  stowing it upside down.  It makes it a bit harder to load and unload off the deck. I'm working on building a new cradle that would allow me to stow upright.

 

One other option I'm thinking about are low profile dink davits made of carbon fiber [the mizzen boom overhangs transom].  The davits would help greatly on short passages and make it easier to move boat around in tight places and improve visibility. Does anyone know of an outfit that works with carbon fiber?

 

Aras Grinius

S/V FIASCO

Sharki #163 1988

 

On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 2:15 PM smiles bernard via groups.io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi there

I’d be really interested to hear of others Maramu dinghy choice wrt stowage
The transom of the Maramu is quite a bit narrower than the SM and later models - as such davits don’t feel right as any dink would overhang the sides If the boat a lot

Plus I have a much treasured Hydrovane on the back

We currently carry an inflatable and also a nesting affair I made

The nesting dinghy stows Inverted under the mizzen boom but that space is not big enough for the inflatable which I pack up and stow in the fwd locker

Really interested in the options people have explored.

Does anyone mount their dinghy right side up on the deck on the foredeck? I’ve seen a few SMs with this setup but feels tight re space on the Maramu

All the very best

Miles
Maramu 162


Looks like we are heading off as



--

Aras Grinius



--

Aras Grinius


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

amelforme
 

That is one of the early aluminum transmissions that were very prone to failure. Amel offered to replace them all at Amel’s expense. Some of these affected boats had been resold and didn’t get the memo. Some people decided that ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it’ and didn’t take the replacement. Over the years I was given several different hull numbers that supposedly were the cut off point for the aluminum transmissions. In every case, # 29 was included in the aluminum transmission equipped boats.

 

I hope this is helpful.

 

All the best,

Joel

 

           JOEL F. POTTER ~ CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST, L.L.C.

                                         The Experienced AMEL Guy

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                  Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2020 11:31 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] SM 1990 drive unit seals

 

I did not understand your original email.

 

Apparently, you have the original aluminum C-Drive. I have never seen one of these. Someone told me that Amel replaced these. I do not know if that replacement story is accurate or not.

 

I do not believe that I can help you.

 

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:11 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them.

We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.

 

Many thanks,

Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990



On 17 Jul 2020, at 6:04 PM, Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi via groups.io <helenmi57=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill,

 

Thanks for the prompt reply!

Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 

It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!

Thanks again 

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990

 

<image0.jpeg>

<image1.jpeg>

 



On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:



The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.

 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

Craig Briggs
 

Hi guys,

So Permatex has several RTV Gasket Makers in different color tubes for different purposes, like water pumps, transmissions, hi-temp, or sensor-safe. The Green one is for gear oil. The Red only says it "resists" oil. The Green says, " 
 Specially formulated to withstand the harsh gear oil environment found in differentials and transfer cases. Because gear oil has friction modifiers that break down normal RTV and cause leaking, this specialty silicone has been tested to OEM specifications to ensure complete sealing. As a gasket maker, it seeks and seals leak paths that cut gaskets cannot. It can also be used to seal cut gaskets.

That's the one you want. It is Permatex part number 81182. $8.46 on Amazon. Instructions say apply a bead, assemble and tighten only finger tight. After an hour retighten only 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Cures in 24 hours.
I've found the waiting time is really important, lest you end up with the material totally squished out. 

Good luck with it and if it works you can say you've got the first "Green" Amel. 
Cheers, Craig


Wet exhaust hose connection to hull

Duane Siegfri
 

I'm getting ready to remove the old exhaust hose from the hull connection.  It seems pretty firmly fixed after removing the hose clamps.  I've read another thread where it was noted that Amel used silicone to provide further sealing to this connection.

If anybody has removed this hose I'm open to suggestions.

At present I'm headed into town to get a pair of snips that will cut the wire reinforcing.  I plan to cut it short of the through hull and then start cutting the hose toward the hull, snipping the wires as I go and peeling the hose off the through hull fitting.

By the way, at the suggestion of Joel Potter I healed the boat over with a halyard to keep the through hull fitting well above the waterline which worked very nicely.

Attached is a photo of the through hull.


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

Thanks Bill,

That’s what we used... we will try to do it more carefully this time. The only difference is that our Permatex was a few years old and so the red RTV silicone gasket maker hi-temp low volatile up to 650F 343C resists oil, water and anti freeze, that we used  is made by ABRO. It needs to sit for 10 mins to form a film whereas the PERMATEX you stick immediately. Don’t know if that is a problem?

Many thanks!



On 17 Jul 2020, at 6:34 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


You should not use on O-Ring unless there is a groove for the O-Ring.

My only idea is to clean the joint completely and use something like this product to reseal the 2 components: https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-high-temp-red-rtv-silicone-gasket/?locale=en_us

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:04 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

Thanks for the prompt reply!
Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 
It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again 
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990

<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>


On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

 

You should not use on O-Ring unless there is a groove for the O-Ring.

My only idea is to clean the joint completely and use something like this product to reseal the 2 components: https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-high-temp-red-rtv-silicone-gasket/?locale=en_us

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:04 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

Thanks for the prompt reply!
Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 
It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again 
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990



On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

 

I did not understand your original email.

Apparently, you have the original aluminum C-Drive. I have never seen one of these. Someone told me that Amel replaced these. I do not know if that replacement story is accurate or not.

I do not believe that I can help you.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:11 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:
I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them.
We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.

Many thanks,
Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990


On 17 Jul 2020, at 6:04 PM, Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi via groups.io <helenmi57=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the prompt reply!
Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 
It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again 
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990

<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>


On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them.
We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.

Many thanks,
Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990


On 17 Jul 2020, at 6:04 PM, Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi via groups.io <helenmi57@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the prompt reply!
Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 
It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again 
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990

<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>


On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the prompt reply!
Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 
It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again 
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990



On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990