Re: For Sale: S/V Adagio, SM 209 ... www.svadagio.us

Mark Garver
Gary,
I am so happy that Jennifer and I got to meet you last week on the Chesapeake and see your great boat. I hope the pork chops were good! :)
There is a couple who are friends of our slip mates over in Gloucester Point that are in the market, we showed them our SM after we returned from the trip, not sure their budget but I will let them know.
Wishing you the best!
Mark and Jennifer Garver S/V It’s Good Amel SM #105
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On Jul 24, 2020, at 10:51 AM, Gary Wells < gary@...> wrote:
Hi folks, Well, after several months of planning and discussions Robin and I have decided to offer Adagio for sale. I put a notice in the "For Sale" sub group and have cobbled together a web site for more information about the Yacht. This is a mixed-emotions day, actually posting her as for sale, but it is where we see us going in the future that drives this decision (that, and a couple of grandkids :) The challenges will likely be two fold: we are still planning to stay and live aboard full time and we are planning to continue our sailing agenda for the upcoming year. So, we will need to plan ahead a bit when making arrangements to come see her. Robin and I are happy to be moving forward to our next chapter but a bit melancholy about closing this one. Our best hope is that Adagio will find new owners ready to pursue their own dream of traveling the seas and who will get as much pleasure from her as we have. More info at www.svadagio.us
Gary W. SM 209, Adagio Cape Charles, VA, USA <A-002.jpg>
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Re: For Sale: S/V Adagio, SM 209 ... www.svadagio.us

Justin Paulsen
I really wish I was in a position to buy right now. I read through the description and it sounds perfect!
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On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 10:51 AM Gary Wells < gary@...> wrote: Hi folks,
Well, after several months of planning and discussions Robin and I have decided to offer Adagio for sale.
I put a notice in the "For Sale" sub group and have cobbled together a web site for more information about the Yacht.
This is a mixed-emotions day, actually posting her as for sale, but it is where we see us going in the future that drives this decision (that, and a couple of grandkids :)
The challenges will likely be two fold: we are still planning to stay and live aboard full time and we are planning to continue our sailing agenda for the upcoming year. So, we will need to plan ahead a bit when making arrangements to come see her.
Robin and I are happy to be moving forward to our next chapter but a bit melancholy about closing this one. Our best hope is that Adagio will find new owners ready to pursue their own dream of traveling the seas and who will get as much pleasure from her as we have.
More info at www.svadagio.us
Gary W. SM 209, Adagio Cape Charles, VA, USA

-- Justin Paulsen IT Professional
"The world is open, are you?"
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For Sale: S/V Adagio, SM 209 ... www.svadagio.us

Gary Wells
Hi folks,
Well, after several months of planning and discussions Robin and I have decided to offer Adagio for sale.
I put a notice in the "For Sale" sub group and have cobbled together a web site for more information about the Yacht.
This is a mixed-emotions day, actually posting her as for sale, but it is where we see us going in the future that drives this decision (that, and a couple of grandkids :)
The challenges will likely be two fold: we are still planning to stay and live aboard full time and we are planning to continue our sailing agenda for the upcoming year. So, we will need to plan ahead a bit when making arrangements to come see her.
Robin and I are happy to be moving forward to our next chapter but a bit melancholy about closing this one. Our best hope is that Adagio will find new owners ready to pursue their own dream of traveling the seas and who will get as much pleasure from her as we have.
More info at www.svadagio.us
Gary W. SM 209, Adagio Cape Charles, VA, USA

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ngtnewington Newington
Yes I removed all of them from that post you circled. Anyhow not to worry I will just have to work at it. On a positive note I snorkelled the anodes and they are not dissolving before my eyes... Nick Amelia anchored Mikanos (not my favourite Greek island)
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On 24 Jul 2020, at 16:38, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Nick,
I think I would need to be there to work through this. Sorry, working remotely with just text email makes it difficult to understand where you disconnected the 24-volt negative cable in the forward locker. But, see the circled wires in this photo. Did you remove all of them from the post?
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Hi Bill, So I took off the negative cables from the master switch one by one and checked the Masse indicator. Fault turns out to be on the biggest cable which is 95mm square. This is the cable that runs to the bow locker plastic electric cupboard. So great, I assumed that it must be the windlasses or the bowthruster. Trouble is that even if I disconnect the 95mm sq cable that goes into the cupboard and then check the indicator, the light comes on... I can only assume the problem is between the bow locker and the battery locker, but from my investigations it is a straight run in a conduit with nothing T’d off it. Any ideas? Nick S/Y Amelia anchored Mikanos with the Meltemi cranking. AML54-019 On 22 Jul 2020, at 20:29, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Good luck. Let me know how it goes. Sometimes the cause is evasive. I should have also said the most probable suspect after the macerator pumps is anything that you have added or changed AC or DC since the MASSE last reported no negative fault. I have been playing around at trying to identify the leak to no avail. So the next step will be as you suggest. I will disconnect the battery positive cables and the remove all the negative cables from the big switch and reconnect one by one to identify the circuit at fault.
Nick Amelia AML54-0197 On 22 Jul 2020, at 17:46, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Nick,
I did it by unbolting at least one of the main switches and pulling it aside.
You can also remove the positive wire from the battery bank to the switch by unbolting it at the junction block inside the battery compartment and also remove the positive wire on the starter battery. An alternative in the battery bank which may be easier is to remove the positive wire from the battery post each of your 6 pairs of batteries (the one to the junction block).
Thanks Bill, Alas it is not the Macerators. I hate working in the space for the main battery on/off as it is so easy to short out the positive to negative with a ratchet handle... maybe I can cover the positive with plastic sheet or something... Nick Stern to in Finikas Syros waiting for the Meltemi to ease just a tad... Amelia AML54-019 On 22 Jul 2020, at 00:43, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Ofer & Nick,
Remember, the minus Masse Light means there is a connection between 24-volts negative to the Amel bonding system. The most common issue is a Jabsco Macerator pump that has developed a leak at the seal, causing a connection to the Amel Bonding. Start by disconnecting the green/yellow wire from each macerator pump. If the light no longer comes ON, you have found it. Replace that macerator pump and reconnect the green/yellow wires.
If it was not the macerator pump and the light is ON for the (-) side, it is more difficult because the individual 24-volt breakers only turn OFF the positive side (+). For a negative side (-) Masse fault, you will need to disconnect the negative wires from the negative main battery switch. On most Amels, this is the lower switch. When the light goes out, you have narrowed your search to one main circuit.
If the (+) side is ON, try turning OFF each breaker throughout the boat one at a time. Don't forget breakers for the windlass, winches, and breakers in the engine room. Do this with all breakers.
I hope this helps you.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 12:32 PM ofer magen < ofermagen@...> wrote: Hi Nick, We had the same problem. It took long time to solve , because the light was not always ON.
The way to find where a bad contact between the minus and the grounding system is, is to start from the main switches near the batteries, disconnect each of the cables while checking the light. Ones you find a cable that if disconnected the is OFF, look for the equipment down the cable and check the contacts and put corrosion x. We found the problem in the forward locker . We had a leak of water from the new Bad! installed windlass rubber deck switches that created humidity on all electrical motors in the locker.
Good luck with the challenge. You can call me if you want more info.
Ofer Magen A 54 160 2010 Cyprus. +972528795540
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Nick,
I think I would need to be there to work through this. Sorry, working remotely with just text email makes it difficult to understand where you disconnected the 24-volt negative cable in the forward locker. But, see the circled wires in this photo. Did you remove all of them from the post?
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Hi Bill, So I took off the negative cables from the master switch one by one and checked the Masse indicator. Fault turns out to be on the biggest cable which is 95mm square. This is the cable that runs to the bow locker plastic electric cupboard. So great, I assumed that it must be the windlasses or the bowthruster. Trouble is that even if I disconnect the 95mm sq cable that goes into the cupboard and then check the indicator, the light comes on... I can only assume the problem is between the bow locker and the battery locker, but from my investigations it is a straight run in a conduit with nothing T’d off it. Any ideas? Nick S/Y Amelia anchored Mikanos with the Meltemi cranking. AML54-019 On 22 Jul 2020, at 20:29, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Good luck. Let me know how it goes. Sometimes the cause is evasive. I should have also said the most probable suspect after the macerator pumps is anything that you have added or changed AC or DC since the MASSE last reported no negative fault. I have been playing around at trying to identify the leak to no avail. So the next step will be as you suggest. I will disconnect the battery positive cables and the remove all the negative cables from the big switch and reconnect one by one to identify the circuit at fault.
Nick Amelia AML54-0197 On 22 Jul 2020, at 17:46, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Nick,
I did it by unbolting at least one of the main switches and pulling it aside.
You can also remove the positive wire from the battery bank to the switch by unbolting it at the junction block inside the battery compartment and also remove the positive wire on the starter battery. An alternative in the battery bank which may be easier is to remove the positive wire from the battery post each of your 6 pairs of batteries (the one to the junction block).
Thanks Bill, Alas it is not the Macerators. I hate working in the space for the main battery on/off as it is so easy to short out the positive to negative with a ratchet handle... maybe I can cover the positive with plastic sheet or something... Nick Stern to in Finikas Syros waiting for the Meltemi to ease just a tad... Amelia AML54-019 On 22 Jul 2020, at 00:43, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Ofer & Nick,
Remember, the minus Masse Light means there is a connection between 24-volts negative to the Amel bonding system. The most common issue is a Jabsco Macerator pump that has developed a leak at the seal, causing a connection to the Amel Bonding. Start by disconnecting the green/yellow wire from each macerator pump. If the light no longer comes ON, you have found it. Replace that macerator pump and reconnect the green/yellow wires.
If it was not the macerator pump and the light is ON for the (-) side, it is more difficult because the individual 24-volt breakers only turn OFF the positive side (+). For a negative side (-) Masse fault, you will need to disconnect the negative wires from the negative main battery switch. On most Amels, this is the lower switch. When the light goes out, you have narrowed your search to one main circuit.
If the (+) side is ON, try turning OFF each breaker throughout the boat one at a time. Don't forget breakers for the windlass, winches, and breakers in the engine room. Do this with all breakers.
I hope this helps you.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 12:32 PM ofer magen < ofermagen@...> wrote: Hi Nick, We had the same problem. It took long time to solve , because the light was not always ON.
The way to find where a bad contact between the minus and the grounding system is, is to start from the main switches near the batteries, disconnect each of the cables while checking the light. Ones you find a cable that if disconnected the is OFF, look for the equipment down the cable and check the contacts and put corrosion x. We found the problem in the forward locker . We had a leak of water from the new Bad! installed windlass rubber deck switches that created humidity on all electrical motors in the locker.
Good luck with the challenge. You can call me if you want more info.
Ofer Magen A 54 160 2010 Cyprus. +972528795540
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I did understand that but in conversation and email with the company I mentioned there are a lot of us Amelians out there so it could be a really good market for a deifferent rub rail for Maramus and Sharkis. Thanks for finding them as they seem quite capable. Best Regards Jim Sent from Mail for Windows 10
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From: Patrick McAneny via groups.ioSent: Friday, July 24, 2020 2:32 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.ioSubject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Rub rail purchase Jim, I was just going to write you to tell you that your rubrail is of a different design,so I could not include you in our order,too bad. There may well be other Maramu owners wanting to join your order,making it cheaper for all. Good Luck, Pat SM Shenanigans
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Jim, I was just going to write you to tell you that your rubrail is of a different design,so I could not include you in our order,too bad. There may well be other Maramu owners wanting to join your order,making it cheaper for all. Good Luck, Pat SM Shenanigans
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Pat I am the owner of a Maramu hull 185 and am going to also replace the rubrail but as I understand it is quite different than the one you are ordering. Only send this to let you know that I am also in the process of ordering a die to do a new rub rail from Techno Rubber Industries also. Only mention it as they may be even sharper on pricing if a couple of different Amel models are ordering from them. I don’t have any idea if other Maramu or Sharki owers would like to replace their rub rail but getting more order for a custom part always saves money and after thirty years or so they do need replacing. Best Regards Jim Watkins Act II Maramu hull 185 Sent from Mail for Windows 10
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From: Patrick McAneny via groups.ioSent: Friday, July 24, 2020 1:14 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.ioSubject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Rub rail purchase Vladimir, I have a sketch that Maude sent me,which I will send. But the rub rail is going to be fabricated based on an actual piece of rubrail to be certain it is an exact reproduction. They will send me a sample before production begins. I have paid for the design/die so the order is in the works. The order will be placed within the next ten days, so I urge anyone interested to join the group buy soon. The more owners that place an order will bring the price even lower. Thanks, Par Shenanigans #123
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Vladimir, I have a sketch that Maude sent me,which I will send. But the rub rail is going to be fabricated based on an actual piece of rubrail to be certain it is an exact reproduction. They will send me a sample before production begins. I have paid for the design/die so the order is in the works. The order will be placed within the next ten days, so I urge anyone interested to join the group buy soon. The more owners that place an order will bring the price even lower. Thanks, Par Shenanigans #123 
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ngtnewington Newington
Hi Bill, So I took off the negative cables from the master switch one by one and checked the Masse indicator. Fault turns out to be on the biggest cable which is 95mm square. This is the cable that runs to the bow locker plastic electric cupboard. So great, I assumed that it must be the windlasses or the bowthruster. Trouble is that even if I disconnect the 95mm sq cable that goes into the cupboard and then check the indicator, the light comes on... I can only assume the problem is between the bow locker and the battery locker, but from my investigations it is a straight run in a conduit with nothing T’d off it. Any ideas? Nick S/Y Amelia anchored Mikanos with the Meltemi cranking. AML54-019
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On 22 Jul 2020, at 20:29, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Good luck. Let me know how it goes. Sometimes the cause is evasive. I should have also said the most probable suspect after the macerator pumps is anything that you have added or changed AC or DC since the MASSE last reported no negative fault. I have been playing around at trying to identify the leak to no avail. So the next step will be as you suggest. I will disconnect the battery positive cables and the remove all the negative cables from the big switch and reconnect one by one to identify the circuit at fault.
Nick Amelia AML54-0197 On 22 Jul 2020, at 17:46, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Nick,
I did it by unbolting at least one of the main switches and pulling it aside.
You can also remove the positive wire from the battery bank to the switch by unbolting it at the junction block inside the battery compartment and also remove the positive wire on the starter battery. An alternative in the battery bank which may be easier is to remove the positive wire from the battery post each of your 6 pairs of batteries (the one to the junction block).
Thanks Bill, Alas it is not the Macerators. I hate working in the space for the main battery on/off as it is so easy to short out the positive to negative with a ratchet handle... maybe I can cover the positive with plastic sheet or something... Nick Stern to in Finikas Syros waiting for the Meltemi to ease just a tad... Amelia AML54-019 On 22 Jul 2020, at 00:43, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Ofer & Nick,
Remember, the minus Masse Light means there is a connection between 24-volts negative to the Amel bonding system. The most common issue is a Jabsco Macerator pump that has developed a leak at the seal, causing a connection to the Amel Bonding. Start by disconnecting the green/yellow wire from each macerator pump. If the light no longer comes ON, you have found it. Replace that macerator pump and reconnect the green/yellow wires.
If it was not the macerator pump and the light is ON for the (-) side, it is more difficult because the individual 24-volt breakers only turn OFF the positive side (+). For a negative side (-) Masse fault, you will need to disconnect the negative wires from the negative main battery switch. On most Amels, this is the lower switch. When the light goes out, you have narrowed your search to one main circuit.
If the (+) side is ON, try turning OFF each breaker throughout the boat one at a time. Don't forget breakers for the windlass, winches, and breakers in the engine room. Do this with all breakers.
I hope this helps you.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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|
|
Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 12:32 PM ofer magen < ofermagen@...> wrote: Hi Nick, We had the same problem. It took long time to solve , because the light was not always ON.
The way to find where a bad contact between the minus and the grounding system is, is to start from the main switches near the batteries, disconnect each of the cables while checking the light. Ones you find a cable that if disconnected the is OFF, look for the equipment down the cable and check the contacts and put corrosion x. We found the problem in the forward locker . We had a leak of water from the new Bad! installed windlass rubber deck switches that created humidity on all electrical motors in the locker.
Good luck with the challenge. You can call me if you want more info.
Ofer Magen A 54 160 2010 Cyprus. +972528795540
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Pat, Please provide more information on the rub rail. Do do you have a sketch.
Vladimir SM 355 "Life is Good"
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I have sent a cross section of my rubrail ,from my Super Maramu to Techno Rubber Industries in Fla. ,they will produce a die and sample for my inspection . I intend to place an order as soon as I receive the sample and final pricing. The die will cost me $450.00 ,the rub rail will run somewhere around $11 per ft. ,roughly $1200. The more boats ordering would bring the price down and I would like to share the cost of the die. The rub rail would be slightly off white. Another owner of a Mango has already purchased from this company and was happy with the service and product. Shipping to Maryland where I live is roughly estimated to be about $200. So if anyone would like to join me in a group buy ,please email me at , sailw32@... . I will give the final number of orders to the company as soon as I get the sample from them. They will then give me a final price based on the number of orders ,the more the less. I will probably place the order within the next ten days,so please get back to me ASAP. Thanks, Pat McAneny SM Shenanigans #123
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Techno Rubber Industries received my rub rail sample and just sent a firm quote. The price per foot went down $2.50 a foot,however the die and design went up about $200, still the overall cost is much less than the original quote and the more owners placing an order would reduce the cost of the die per owner.
As of now three owners have placed an order. The cost will be $8.90/ft x 104 ft = 925.60 Cost of design and die split three ways will be $640.00 / 3 = 213 925 + 213= $ 1,138. So the cost for a new off white rubrail for a SM will be $1,138. , that cost will be reduced further if more owners join this group purchase. A few months ago when Bill and Karen tried to organize a group purchase I believe that there was at least 8 owners interested in purchasing a new rub rail. I hope they read and respond to this ,if they are still interested .If you are interested to join in this purchase there is only about a week to do so. Tomorrow I will pay for the design and die , they will make a sample within a week and then do the production run a week later. We will each pay individually by credit card directly and they will ship directly to each owner. So please contact me directly if you are interested in joining the purchase. Thanks, Pat SM Shenanigans #123
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Re: A 55 # 9 : Chargeing and mastershunts

Courtney Gorman
Randall For two seasons I ran my bow thruster with just the battery’s almost never starting the generator before using. that huge draw on the batteries sent them to the morgue years sooner than they should’ve died
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On Jul 23, 2020, at 8:37 AM, Randall <sailingalbedo@...> wrote:
OK i will ask as I have semi new dead Batteries and was hoping to make it to Florida before refit. Love to know the story.
Randall A54#56 Gibraltar
biggest problem with not starting the Gen is that you significantly shorten the life of your lead acid or gel batteries I'm not sure about lithiums just ask me how I know.........after killing 12 lead acid in just 2 seasons
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101
-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification < main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Wed, Jul 22, 2020 10:53 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A 55 # 9 : Chargeing and mastershunts
Craig, I have known Amel to "learn" and add recommendations that did not exist 30 years ago. I don't know when the generator recommendation started, but it in fact does exist.
On Wed, Jul 22, 2020, 9:15 AM Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via groups.io <sangaris= aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi John, I stand corrected, thanks.
That you must leave the helm, go below and take, what?, 2-3 minutes to fire everything up, then return to begin docking strikes me as a procedure destined to be ignored.
Be that as it may, I can say with absolute certainty that Amel never gave that instruction for the SN ;-) Cheers, Craig
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Re: A 55 # 9 : Chargeing and mastershunts
OK i will ask as I have semi new dead Batteries and was hoping to make it to Florida before refit. Love to know the story.
Randall A54#56 Gibraltar
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
biggest problem with not starting the Gen is that you significantly shorten the life of your lead acid or gel batteries I'm not sure about lithiums just ask me how I know.........after killing 12 lead acid in just 2 seasons
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101
-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification < main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Wed, Jul 22, 2020 10:53 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A 55 # 9 : Chargeing and mastershunts
Craig, I have known Amel to "learn" and add recommendations that did not exist 30 years ago. I don't know when the generator recommendation started, but it in fact does exist.
On Wed, Jul 22, 2020, 9:15 AM Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via groups.io <sangaris= aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi John, I stand corrected, thanks.
That you must leave the helm, go below and take, what?, 2-3 minutes to fire everything up, then return to begin docking strikes me as a procedure destined to be ignored.
Be that as it may, I can say with absolute certainty that Amel never gave that instruction for the SN ;-) Cheers, Craig
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Re: A 55 # 9 : Chargeing and mastershunts

Courtney Gorman
biggest problem with not starting the Gen is that you significantly shorten the life of your lead acid or gel batteries I'm not sure about lithiums just ask me how I know.........after killing 12 lead acid in just 2 seasons
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Wed, Jul 22, 2020 10:53 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A 55 # 9 : Chargeing and mastershunts
Craig, I have known Amel to "learn" and add recommendations that did not exist 30 years ago. I don't know when the generator recommendation started, but it in fact does exist.
On Wed, Jul 22, 2020, 9:15 AM Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL via groups.io <sangaris= aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi John, I stand corrected, thanks.
That you must leave the helm, go below and take, what?, 2-3 minutes to fire everything up, then return to begin docking strikes me as a procedure destined to be ignored.
Be that as it may, I can say with absolute certainty that Amel never gave that instruction for the SN ;-) Cheers, Craig
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Aras Grinius
I went thru the fill valve on mine. Flexible wand pretty much did the trick
Aras
SV/FIASCO Sharki #163 1988
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I want to clean my fuel tank, I can only see one small cap that I assume is for the sending unit. Before I tear off the foam cover glued to the tank looking for a larger inspection port, I thought I would ask if one exists on the top of the tank. Thanks, Pat SM Shenanigans
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Ann-Sofie
There are no hatches on your tank. So if you want to inspect, you have to make one. Regards Ann-Sofie S/Y Lady Annila SM232, 1998
Skickat från min iPhone
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23 juli 2020 kl. 13:29 skrev Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...>:
Michael , Ann Sofie, I don’t want to cut a new port and will do the best I can through the existing port. Thanks for the info. Pat SM Shenanigans
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Michael , Ann Sofie, I don’t want to cut a new port and will do the best I can through the existing port. Thanks for the info. Pat SM Shenanigans
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Ann-Sofie
Hi Pat, No there is non. We hade to make i ours. Ann-Sofie S/Y Lady Annila SM232, 1998
Skickat från min iPhone
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23 juli 2020 kl. 05:45 skrev michael winand via groups.io <mfw642000@...>:
Hi Pat, I have just been through the process, on sm251, we only have the sender opening, I sucked out all the fuel through the filters with my vacume extraction, opened up the outlet , put a light into the tank, I used a rag on a stick to wipe what I could, it was one of those job's that didn't really need to be done, it was really clean, a small amount of dark colored somthing on the bottom. About the size of a saucer. Just a thought before cutting the top for inspection openings. Michael NEBO On Thu, 23 Jul. 2020 at 11:01 am, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote: I want to clean my fuel tank, I can only see one small cap that I assume is for the sending unit. Before I tear off the foam cover glued to the tank looking for a larger inspection port, I thought I would ask if one exists on the top of the tank. Thanks, Pat SM Shenanigans
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michael winand
Hi Pat, I have just been through the process, on sm251, we only have the sender opening, I sucked out all the fuel through the filters with my vacume extraction, opened up the outlet , put a light into the tank, I used a rag on a stick to wipe what I could, it was one of those job's that didn't really need to be done, it was really clean, a small amount of dark colored somthing on the bottom. About the size of a saucer. Just a thought before cutting the top for inspection openings.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Thu, 23 Jul. 2020 at 11:01 am, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote: I want to clean my fuel tank, I can only see one small cap that I assume is for the sending unit. Before I tear off the foam cover glued to the tank looking for a larger inspection port, I thought I would ask if one exists on the top of the tank. Thanks, Pat SM Shenanigans
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