On July 29, 2020 at 7:13 PM "Patrick McAneny via groups.io" <sailw32@...> wrote:

Eric, I can’t add much to Craig’s reply, Craig and I will both trail fit a sample on our boats,to confirm the fit. The die is being made directly from a cross section that we cut from our rub rail insert.If you or any owner would like to join the group buy, please contact me so that I can add you to the list. I expect to place the order in roughly ten days.

Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

On July 29, 2020 at 6:23 PM "Craig & Katherine Briggs via groups.io" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Hi Eric,
Not to step on a reply from Pat, but today I visited the company, Techno Rubber to go over "our" order. I took my entire starboard side insert and they had Pat's sample. While there, we had a conference call with Pat with the sample inserts sitting in the office so we could discuss them. They have their extrusion dies made by an outside supplier, which is being done now, based on the sample Pat sent them. (These are not pre-defined "models" but custom machined steel dies.)  The die should be back next week and they will run off a few feet, sending some to Pat and I'll pick one up, too (I am close to the shop). After Pat and I check them for any needed fine tuning, we'll give the OK for full length runs.

I was very favorably impressed - this is a small but substantial and very credible family owned operation with three extrusion lines of about 100' each making all sorts of similar extruded products.

There is no question of having the "correct model" - as noted it is custom (no "model #") and Pat and I will check it out. Of course, we can send you a foot or so. If you can commit it would be great so we can share the die cost.  Let us know, please.

ANY OTHER SM OR SN OWNERS WANTING TO REPLACE THEIR (scuzzy, UV damaged, oxidized and ugly) RUB RAIL INSERTS - NOW'S THE TIME!  Let Pat (or me) know, please.

The new ones will be white, (not the original Amel baby diaper brown) - the same as the standard extruded rub rails on pilings and docks that you see everywhere.

Cheers, Craig 
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL

On July 29, 2020 at 6:23 PM "Craig & Katherine Briggs via groups.io" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Hi Eric,
Not to step on a reply from Pat, but today I visited the company, Techno Rubber to go over "our" order. I took my entire starboard side insert and they had Pat's sample. While there, we had a conference call with Pat with the sample inserts sitting in the office so we could discuss them. They have their extrusion dies made by an outside supplier, which is being done now, based on the sample Pat sent them. (These are not pre-defined "models" but custom machined steel dies.)  The die should be back next week and they will run off a few feet, sending some to Pat and I'll pick one up, too (I am close to the shop). After Pat and I check them for any needed fine tuning, we'll give the OK for full length runs.

I was very favorably impressed - this is a small but substantial and very credible family owned operation with three extrusion lines of about 100' each making all sorts of similar extruded products.

There is no question of having the "correct model" - as noted it is custom (no "model #") and Pat and I will check it out. Of course, we can send you a foot or so. If you can commit it would be great so we can share the die cost.  Let us know, please.

ANY OTHER SM OR SN OWNERS WANTING TO REPLACE THEIR (scuzzy, UV damaged, oxidized and ugly) RUB RAIL INSERTS - NOW'S THE TIME!  Let Pat (or me) know, please.

The new ones will be white, (not the original Amel baby diaper brown) - the same as the standard extruded rub rails on pilings and docks that you see everywhere.

Cheers, Craig 
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL

I have sent a cross section of my rubrail ,from my Super Maramu to Techno Rubber Industries in Fla. ,they will produce a die and sample for my inspection . I intend to place an order as soon as I receive the sample and final pricing. The die will cost me $450.00 ,the rub rail will run somewhere around $11 per ft. ,roughly $1200. The more boats ordering would bring the price down and I would like to share the cost of the die. The rub rail would be slightly off white. Another owner of a Mango has already purchased from this company and was happy with the service and product. Shipping to Maryland where I live is roughly estimated to be about $200.
So if anyone would like to join me in a group buy ,please email me at , sailw32@... . I will give the final number of orders to the company as soon as I get the sample from them. They will then give me a final price based on the number of orders ,the more the less. I will probably place the order within the next ten days,so please get back to me ASAP.
Thanks,
Pat McAneny
SM Shenanigans #123

On 30 July 2020 at 05:02 Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

When I got on AMELIT in NOUMEA she had been sitting idle for close to 20 months and the aft bathroom valve was stuck: we planned on replacing when she came out of the water. Thanks to a very, very skinny (arms & hands) & persistent sidekick of my excellent (but high labor cost) local mechanic (Willie) he got it to work. Also the aft bathroom shower/sink valve in the engine room got stripped in the open position and this one is glassed into the watertight bulkhead. Impossible or extreme difficult to replace. So I added a PVC (??) valve at the end of the hose near the bilge. Since then I exercise (open/close 3 times) ALL 7 valves every other Saturday morning – I know is overkill but also no big deal.

 

Best Regards Teun

 

SV AMELIT  A54 #128

July 29, 2020 12:01:54

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arno Luijten via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2020 06:03
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 holding tank drain seasock

 

Hi Soraya,

I operate them every moth or so. Not much more you can do other then spraying them with Corrosion-X. But the reality is they do get bad as these are pretty standard chromed brass seacocks. Getting proper bronze ones is close to impossible for the thread that is used on the outlet pipe. At least I was not able to source them. I can source bronze ones with tapered thread no problem, but not with a straight thread.
I had to replace the forward seacock as it was leaking via the shaft that operates the ball. It is a challenge to do. I ended up with a badly bruised upper arm for a week or so. Use Loctite 577 to seal the threads positioning the seacock in the proper rotational position. Before screwing it on with the Loctite, first do a dry-fit and count the number of rotations you need to make to fit it as far as it will go. 

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

 

On Jul 29, 2020, at 12:46 PM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi David,

The problem is that the blue lights are switched via resistors. Blue LEDs are by their nature very sensitive to overvoltage. You should supply LEDs ideally with a current source instead of a voltage source. A current source supplies a certain current and regulates the voltage to get to that current.
Using resistors is (especially) for blue LEDs a poor choice as your supply voltage can be anything from 24 to 29 volt. For a blue LED this means that when you pick a resistor suitable for 29 Volt, the thing will hardly light up at 24 volt. Picking a resistor for 24 Volt will fry the LED at 29 volt. This is why these switch panel lights die.

What I've did is count the number of LEDs (pairs) you need, multiply this with the optimal current for each pair of LEDs. The pairs are set in series on the PCB so the optimal current for one LED is the same as for the pair. I'm not sure anymore but I think I got to 500 mA for the lot. Then I bought a converter similar to this one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Supplies-25-2W-15-50V-500mA/dp/B00HKJAW20/ref=sr_1_63?crid=3YQWWEX2UH14&dchild=1&keywords=constant+current+led+driver&qid=1596040540&sprefix=constant+current+%2Caps%2C266&sr=8-63
This is a constant current supply to feed all the leds (in pairs). This has been working excellent for some time now. Each individual LED is fed their optimal current. I can't find the LEDs anymore that I bought from Amazon at the time, but I bought them in small bulk similar to these https://www.amazon.com/100pcs-Ultra-Bright-Emitting-Diffused/dp/B01GE4WEGI/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=blue+LED+5mm&qid=1596041080&sr=8-8

Hope this helps,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

WAIT and read this before you order!

Not all Onan Generators in all SMs and 54s are created equally. Use your ohmmeter to check for continuity between the terminals on the temperature sensor on the exhaust elbow. Some Onan models have part 309-0295-01 which is Normally Closed. Other models have part 309-0295 is Normally Open. Which sensor you have depends on your Onan Model and Serial. Check the parts manual for your model to determine how to test this sensor. Or call your Cummins/Onan dealer with your model and serial number.

Good to know: The normal temperature of the exhaust elbow is about 50C and the normal temperature of the coolant is about 80C. Were these in range? How many hours since the last impeller change? Should be less than 300hrs or 12 months. The impeller blades can look OK, but the impeller can be defective. You can have some water flow, but not enough to keep the elbow below about 70C (the approximate cut-off temp).

Also, remember there are a number of sensors in the shutdown system, and these switches will fail. I replaced the exhaust manifold temperature switch and the water-flow switch because of an accumulation of debris inside. I also had one situation with a loose connection on a switch. Did you use your laser temperature gun to measure temperature? 

	CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School +1 832-380-4970 | brouse@... Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550  Website: www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com

View My Training Calendar

On Wed, Jul 29, 2020 at 4:02 AM Mark Pitt <mark_pitt@...> wrote:

Eric,

I will order one.  I have never had an issue with mine but you never know.  Thanks for doing this.

Best,

Mark

Sabbatical III, Sm#419, Rhode Island, USA

On Jul 29, 2020, at 1:13 AM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

 Mike,
These are simple thermal switches. They are normally closed.
If the circuit opens up the genset stops.
My problem is sometimes they burn out and other times I hit the switch and it separates.
Fair Winds,
Eric

On July 28, 2020 at 10:41 PM "Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)" <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Thanks Eric. Sent you a message with order details.

When these fail, go bad, or break, how do you know? Does it prevent the genset from starting/running? Or does it allow the genset to overheat if there are issues with the cooling system (broken impeller for example) and potentially damage things?

Cheers,

Mike Longcor

SV Trilogy SM23

Opua, NZ

 

Hi Soraya,

I operate them every moth or so. Not much more you can do other then spraying them with Corrosion-X. But the reality is they do get bad as these are pretty standard chromed brass seacocks. Getting proper bronze ones is close to impossible for the thread that is used on the outlet pipe. At least I was not able to source them. I can source bronze ones with tapered thread no problem, but not with a straight thread.
I had to replace the forward seacock as it was leaking via the shaft that operates the ball. It is a challenge to do. I ended up with a badly bruised upper arm for a week or so. Use Loctite 577 to seal the threads positioning the seacock in the proper rotational position. Before screwing it on with the Loctite, first do a dry-fit and count the number of rotations you need to make to fit it as far as it will go. 

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121