Date   

Re: A54 Refrigeration Cooling Water Circulation Pump - Brushless Motor

Jamie Wendell
 

Agree about the motor back-fire possibility. I will be using a MOSFET to prevent that, and carry a few spare systems - they are cheap to build. Plus, as you no doubt understand, systems will develop and improve over time as we think of new features and control schemes. Presumably, you installed temp sensors in your refrigerator boxes and used the original Amel wiring from the compressors to the E51385, thereby bypassing that box entirely. That certainly would be the best approach, but I have not yet gotten there.

What is the ARDUM xxxx board? Don't forget, my system is still in the prototype phase. I looked on your website and could not find anything new, other than the running motor video.

Thanks,

Jamie

Phantom A54 #44


Re: Winter berth between Livorno and Roma

richarddemuynck
 

We're in Porto Turistico di Roma since 7 years and very pleased with the vicinity of the most beautiful town of Rome, and the airport of Fiumicino. For servicing the boat we use the shipyard located in the harbour, which dispose over a huge travel lift.
If you are interested you can contact the harbour office with my greetings.


Re: A54 Refrigeration Cooling Water Circulation Pump - Brushless Motor

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hi Jamie,

I forgot to mention, if you wotk the VESC with an Arduino u need mandatory an isolater in between. 
It might burn the Arduino as they are on differen potentials. Or the motor fires back in some conditions. 
So better use an ARDUM xxxx to get it more stable. 
The way is also to controll the VESC by software not by switching it on and of and using a potentiometer, at last as final setup.

Hope that helped

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54#39 
Martinique 

On Sat, Aug 1, 2020, 10:32 Jamie Wendell <mysticshadow54@...> wrote:

By now most are familiar with the problems many of us have experienced with the Flojet/Frigoboat refrigeration water circulation pumps. Several of us who have Amel 54's have noted the very short life of the motors for these pumps when we are in very warm climates. There have been 2 long and potentially confusing threads on this complicated issue, so I decided to create a new one devoted to my solution…………..

The original goal was hopefully a new type of pump driven by a brushless DC motor. Unfortunately, finding a pump with a brushless motor that will work in the Amel service has proven quite elusive, as there are pluses and minuses with every type of pump available. While there are brushless motor-driven pumps out there, they are generally unsuitable, as they are centrifugal and hence need a constant prime. Additionally, some who have tested other types of pumps (gear driven for example) have reported that they are very loud and do not circulate the correct amount of cooling water. Then there is the issue of power requirements. We want a low-current solution.

As a new approach, a few of us have been pursuing a custom brushless motor design coupled to the normal Flojet pump. The Flojet pump is really a good design, as it is quiet and self-priming. Well, I have finally developed a working brushless motor using some of the hardware recommended by Oliver on Vela Nautica. He successfully implemented a brushless motor connected to the Flojet pump through an electronic speed controller, but the missing ingredient has always been the interface to the refrigeration compressors/pump interface.

I now have a prototype functioning system that includes the following components: Flipsky Brushless Motor, Flipsky VESC (controller), and the key component - a mini programmable control board called Arduino. I have not yet built the brackets needed to hold the motor, nor have I yet put all the parts into a small box to install in the engine room. I had to make sure the setup would work first, and I have just now confirmed that.

The motor will be attached to the pump body (cannibalized from the Flojet), eliminating the problematic brushed motor on the pump. Then you will connect the VESC to the motor and program it (using a PC/MAC) with included software (very simple to do through an automated setup and USB connection). And finally, you will connect the Arduino to the VESC and the Frigoboat pump interface (E51385). You have to program the Arduino as well, but again it is quite basic to do so through Arduino software (provided with the controller board). I also use a simple 10K-ohm potentiometer to control the motor speed in real time.
Here is the way my setup is going to work - sorry to have to be so technical, but figuring all this out has been an engineering challenge, and I do not want to overly confuse anyone.


The Frigoboat E51385 sends out a voltage signal (yes it is ultimately 12 volts) to the Arduino (can be direct through a 12V-5V voltage converter, an electronic 12V relay that connects to the Arduino through a NO dry contact, or via temperature sensors inside the refrigeration units). At the moment I am using the relay approach but may shift to temperature-sensor control, as that would allow the Arduino to change the motor speed in response to the fridge temperature(s), which I believe is what Oliver does. The Arduino senses the voltage, contact closing, or temperatures and then turns on the VESC, which then drives the motor at the speed selected by the potentiometer. You would not need the potentiometer if you use the temperature sensors, but that also means reconfiguring the wiring from the refrigeration units and installing sensors in the fridge boxes.
IT WORKS, and the power demand is quite low. Plus, the sky is the limit (with the Arduino), and anything you can dream up is possible with a few extra wires, sensors, and some basic programming. As noted, I still have to install all the components in a box, connect the motor to the Flojet pump body (need to fabricate a bracket of some sort), and mount everything in the engine room. All that is work for sure but not at all technical. Unfortunately, the motor I bought is not the right size to mate with the pump body, and I need to order the right one - yuk.
Once I get everything installed and finalized in my engine room, I will provide a parts list and a schematic for everyone to follow if they would like to make one of these. I will also provide photos so that all this stuff becomes clear.
Stay tuned. I hope to have the final setup within the next couple of weeks or so. If anyone wants to dive in now and get the parts, let me know. I can provide a list of components and better instructions.
Thanks,
Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44


Re: A54 Refrigeration Cooling Water Circulation Pump - Brushless Motor

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hi Jamie,

Good to hear u make progress. 

What motor did u get? 

I use now different motors than in the start. With improved bearings. 

I use now also stronger motors of my own custom order but still working without load on 150mA and with pump load on 500mA.
So very efficient. 
On our webside you can see a post about an integrated motor controller. It incorporates all and has ports for temperature sensors for. 
All Fridges or freezers inside, all compressor temperatures and Raw water manifold.
Adapting cooling pump to watertemperature and compressor temerature. 

So this is the way ahead. 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54#39 
Martinique 

On Sat, Aug 1, 2020, 10:32 Jamie Wendell <mysticshadow54@...> wrote:

By now most are familiar with the problems many of us have experienced with the Flojet/Frigoboat refrigeration water circulation pumps. Several of us who have Amel 54's have noted the very short life of the motors for these pumps when we are in very warm climates. There have been 2 long and potentially confusing threads on this complicated issue, so I decided to create a new one devoted to my solution…………..

The original goal was hopefully a new type of pump driven by a brushless DC motor. Unfortunately, finding a pump with a brushless motor that will work in the Amel service has proven quite elusive, as there are pluses and minuses with every type of pump available. While there are brushless motor-driven pumps out there, they are generally unsuitable, as they are centrifugal and hence need a constant prime. Additionally, some who have tested other types of pumps (gear driven for example) have reported that they are very loud and do not circulate the correct amount of cooling water. Then there is the issue of power requirements. We want a low-current solution.

As a new approach, a few of us have been pursuing a custom brushless motor design coupled to the normal Flojet pump. The Flojet pump is really a good design, as it is quiet and self-priming. Well, I have finally developed a working brushless motor using some of the hardware recommended by Oliver on Vela Nautica. He successfully implemented a brushless motor connected to the Flojet pump through an electronic speed controller, but the missing ingredient has always been the interface to the refrigeration compressors/pump interface.

I now have a prototype functioning system that includes the following components: Flipsky Brushless Motor, Flipsky VESC (controller), and the key component - a mini programmable control board called Arduino. I have not yet built the brackets needed to hold the motor, nor have I yet put all the parts into a small box to install in the engine room. I had to make sure the setup would work first, and I have just now confirmed that.

The motor will be attached to the pump body (cannibalized from the Flojet), eliminating the problematic brushed motor on the pump. Then you will connect the VESC to the motor and program it (using a PC/MAC) with included software (very simple to do through an automated setup and USB connection). And finally, you will connect the Arduino to the VESC and the Frigoboat pump interface (E51385). You have to program the Arduino as well, but again it is quite basic to do so through Arduino software (provided with the controller board). I also use a simple 10K-ohm potentiometer to control the motor speed in real time.
Here is the way my setup is going to work - sorry to have to be so technical, but figuring all this out has been an engineering challenge, and I do not want to overly confuse anyone.


The Frigoboat E51385 sends out a voltage signal (yes it is ultimately 12 volts) to the Arduino (can be direct through a 12V-5V voltage converter, an electronic 12V relay that connects to the Arduino through a NO dry contact, or via temperature sensors inside the refrigeration units). At the moment I am using the relay approach but may shift to temperature-sensor control, as that would allow the Arduino to change the motor speed in response to the fridge temperature(s), which I believe is what Oliver does. The Arduino senses the voltage, contact closing, or temperatures and then turns on the VESC, which then drives the motor at the speed selected by the potentiometer. You would not need the potentiometer if you use the temperature sensors, but that also means reconfiguring the wiring from the refrigeration units and installing sensors in the fridge boxes.
IT WORKS, and the power demand is quite low. Plus, the sky is the limit (with the Arduino), and anything you can dream up is possible with a few extra wires, sensors, and some basic programming. As noted, I still have to install all the components in a box, connect the motor to the Flojet pump body (need to fabricate a bracket of some sort), and mount everything in the engine room. All that is work for sure but not at all technical. Unfortunately, the motor I bought is not the right size to mate with the pump body, and I need to order the right one - yuk.
Once I get everything installed and finalized in my engine room, I will provide a parts list and a schematic for everyone to follow if they would like to make one of these. I will also provide photos so that all this stuff becomes clear.
Stay tuned. I hope to have the final setup within the next couple of weeks or so. If anyone wants to dive in now and get the parts, let me know. I can provide a list of components and better instructions.
Thanks,
Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44


A54 Refrigeration Cooling Water Circulation Pump - Brushless Motor

Jamie Wendell
 

By now most are familiar with the problems many of us have experienced with the Flojet/Frigoboat refrigeration water circulation pumps. Several of us who have Amel 54's have noted the very short life of the motors for these pumps when we are in very warm climates. There have been 2 long and potentially confusing threads on this complicated issue, so I decided to create a new one devoted to my solution…………..

The original goal was hopefully a new type of pump driven by a brushless DC motor. Unfortunately, finding a pump with a brushless motor that will work in the Amel service has proven quite elusive, as there are pluses and minuses with every type of pump available. While there are brushless motor-driven pumps out there, they are generally unsuitable, as they are centrifugal and hence need a constant prime. Additionally, some who have tested other types of pumps (gear driven for example) have reported that they are very loud and do not circulate the correct amount of cooling water. Then there is the issue of power requirements. We want a low-current solution.

As a new approach, a few of us have been pursuing a custom brushless motor design coupled to the normal Flojet pump. The Flojet pump is really a good design, as it is quiet and self-priming. Well, I have finally developed a working brushless motor using some of the hardware recommended by Oliver on Vela Nautica. He successfully implemented a brushless motor connected to the Flojet pump through an electronic speed controller, but the missing ingredient has always been the interface to the refrigeration compressors/pump interface.

I now have a prototype functioning system that includes the following components: Flipsky Brushless Motor, Flipsky VESC (controller), and the key component - a mini programmable control board called Arduino. I have not yet built the brackets needed to hold the motor, nor have I yet put all the parts into a small box to install in the engine room. I had to make sure the setup would work first, and I have just now confirmed that.

The motor will be attached to the pump body (cannibalized from the Flojet), eliminating the problematic brushed motor on the pump. Then you will connect the VESC to the motor and program it (using a PC/MAC) with included software (very simple to do through an automated setup and USB connection). And finally, you will connect the Arduino to the VESC and the Frigoboat pump interface (E51385). You have to program the Arduino as well, but again it is quite basic to do so through Arduino software (provided with the controller board). I also use a simple 10K-ohm potentiometer to control the motor speed in real time.
Here is the way my setup is going to work - sorry to have to be so technical, but figuring all this out has been an engineering challenge, and I do not want to overly confuse anyone.


The Frigoboat E51385 sends out a voltage signal (yes it is ultimately 12 volts) to the Arduino (can be direct through a 12V-5V voltage converter, an electronic 12V relay that connects to the Arduino through a NO dry contact, or via temperature sensors inside the refrigeration units). At the moment I am using the relay approach but may shift to temperature-sensor control, as that would allow the Arduino to change the motor speed in response to the fridge temperature(s), which I believe is what Oliver does. The Arduino senses the voltage, contact closing, or temperatures and then turns on the VESC, which then drives the motor at the speed selected by the potentiometer. You would not need the potentiometer if you use the temperature sensors, but that also means reconfiguring the wiring from the refrigeration units and installing sensors in the fridge boxes.
IT WORKS, and the power demand is quite low. Plus, the sky is the limit (with the Arduino), and anything you can dream up is possible with a few extra wires, sensors, and some basic programming. As noted, I still have to install all the components in a box, connect the motor to the Flojet pump body (need to fabricate a bracket of some sort), and mount everything in the engine room. All that is work for sure but not at all technical. Unfortunately, the motor I bought is not the right size to mate with the pump body, and I need to order the right one - yuk.
Once I get everything installed and finalized in my engine room, I will provide a parts list and a schematic for everyone to follow if they would like to make one of these. I will also provide photos so that all this stuff becomes clear.
Stay tuned. I hope to have the final setup within the next couple of weeks or so. If anyone wants to dive in now and get the parts, let me know. I can provide a list of components and better instructions.
Thanks,
Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44


Re: Winter berth between Livorno and Roma

antonio scipioni
 

I Jose,
Generally I Leave my Santorin in Cala Galera or on the river in rome in Nautilus Marina. Very professional and one of the best restaurant in Rome. Near airport too.
You can get a quote calling and saying you spoke Vagabundo.
Br
Antonio

Inviato da iPhone

Il giorno 1 ago 2020, alle ore 11:56, ULRICH DANGELMEYER <ulrich.dangelmeyer@...> ha scritto:

Hi José,

on Elba Island I recommend following yards for winter storage.
Very Professional services, but not only a Marina.


http://www.golfomola.it/unita_capoliveri.php,(location Capoliveri (Elba island) or San Vincenco (mainland).

many of local Charter companies are associated with their boats for maintenance and care all over the year.

Elba is not too far and remote, accessible by ferry and plane.

Hope this helps, one of my favorites in the Med.

Best Regards and stay safe.

Ulrich
„Soleil Bleu“ /A54#088
<>





Am 01.08.2020 um 11:36 schrieb Jose Alegria <Josealegr@...>:

Dear Amellians
I need advice from a marina between Livorno and Rome to leave MERIT during the winter period. Ideally a marina that has a nautical community during the winter period.

Kindest regards

José Alegria
A55#003MERIT
josealegr@...
Mobile: + 351 91 866 30 37




Re: Winter berth between Livorno and Roma

ULRICH DANGELMEYER
 

Hi José,

on Elba Island I recommend following yards for winter storage.
Very Professional services, but not only a Marina.


http://www.golfomola.it/unita_capoliveri.php,(location Capoliveri (Elba island) or San Vincenco (mainland).

many of local Charter companies are associated with their boats for maintenance and care all over the year.

Elba is not too far and remote, accessible by ferry and plane.

Hope this helps, one of my favorites in the Med.

Best Regards and stay safe.

Ulrich
„Soleil Bleu“ /A54#088
<>





Am 01.08.2020 um 11:36 schrieb Jose Alegria <Josealegr@...>:

Dear Amellians
I need advice from a marina between Livorno and Rome to leave MERIT during the winter period. Ideally a marina that has a nautical community during the winter period.

Kindest regards

José Alegria
A55#003MERIT
josealegr@...
Mobile: + 351 91 866 30 37




Winter berth between Livorno and Roma

Jose Alegria
 

Dear Amellians
I need advice from a marina between Livorno and Rome to leave MERIT during the winter period. Ideally a marina that has a nautical community during the winter period.

Kindest regards

José Alegria
A55#003MERIT
josealegr@...
Mobile: + 351 91 866 30 37



Re: SM 2000 head backflow and holding tank leak -second attempt

Mike Ondra
 

That should read “Diamond Hole Saw”!!!!!!

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mike Ondra via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 2:22 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] SM 2000 head backflow and holding tank leak -second attempt

 

Finally got to the aft head with the riser repair. The copper here was also corroded away with the riser pipe inside the tank completely separated. (Any leak between the tank and the head pump would drain virtually the entire contents of the holding tank.) Again replaced the piping from the head pump all the way to discharge about an inch below the top of holding tank with one piece of 1.25” Trident VAC XHD Sanitation Hose. Straightened the last 18” of the hose over heat so it would stand upright.

Boring out the 1.75” hole was made significantly easier with the implementation of the Diamond Hose Saw (from Amazon) which cut through both fiberglass and copper fairly easily (15-20 minutes). The length of the bore at this inlet is almost 3” due to the fiberglass build-up at this location. The bore is about ¼” oversize allowing a putty epoxy seal around the pipe where it enters the tank and then the gap was filled from inside the tank from above (3/4” PVC pipe with funnel) with FG resin leaving a puddle around the pipe.  So far so good.

Future replacement of the Sanitation Hose would require cutting and coupling just below the holding tank, or complete removal and replacement.

 

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240 Rock Hall, MD

 

 


Re: A54 holding tank drain seasock

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Soraya,

At the first sign the valve becomes sticky, we use vegetable oil to lube the
valve.

With the holding tank empty and the valve closed, remove the deck cap and
pour about a 100ml of vegetable oil into the tank. Let it sit for a little
while. Then, work the valve back and forth. This will last for a few months
before it needs to be done again.

(I am assuming the 54 has caps on the deck for pump-out like the 53)


With best regards,

Mark

Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io]
On Behalf Of Sv Garulfo
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 6:51 PM
To: Amel Yacht owners Group
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 holding tank drain seasock

Hello,

Any routine maintenance tips for the holding tanks drain seacocks?
Ours are starting to grip.

Thanks

Soraya
Garulfo
A54-122
Tahiti


SM 2000 head backflow and holding tank leak -second attempt

Mike Ondra
 

Finally got to the aft head with the riser repair. The copper here was also corroded away with the riser pipe inside the tank completely separated. (Any leak between the tank and the head pump would drain virtually the entire contents of the holding tank.) Again replaced the piping from the head pump all the way to discharge about an inch below the top of holding tank with one piece of 1.25” Trident VAC XHD Sanitation Hose. Straightened the last 18” of the hose over heat so it would stand upright.

Boring out the 1.75” hole was made significantly easier with the implementation of the Diamond Hose Saw (from Amazon) which cut through both fiberglass and copper fairly easily (15-20 minutes). The length of the bore at this inlet is almost 3” due to the fiberglass build-up at this location. The bore is about ¼” oversize allowing a putty epoxy seal around the pipe where it enters the tank and then the gap was filled from inside the tank from above (3/4” PVC pipe with funnel) with FG resin leaving a puddle around the pipe.  So far so good.

Future replacement of the Sanitation Hose would require cutting and coupling just below the holding tank, or complete removal and replacement.

 

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240 Rock Hall, MD

 

 


Re: A54 holding tank drain seasock

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

From the outside of the boat while sitting in your dinghy you may be able to use a grease gun and put grease on the exterior of the valve then operate it from the inside to provide some lubrication.  This procedure helped on the forward head of our A54.  When we bought the boat the aft head valve was hard to rotate and became more difficult over time.  I had a small socket welded to a handle that I found at a hardware store in Ft. Lauderdale, see photo.  This allowed me to get a ratchet wrench with an extension on the valve to help rotate the handle.  Eventually even this procedure no longer worked which resulted in the replacement of this valve earlier this year.  A link to the valve I used which has the proper threads and includes a grease fitting to lube the valve occasionally is listed below; 1 ¼” BSPP thread.  What I found upon removal of the valve was a sliver of wood that had wedged between the valve ball and the side of the valve.  The sliver of wood looked very similar to the wood that the tank support platform.  The bore of the valve had very little residue of any kind on it.

 

On a boat project scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the most difficult this was a 10+.  The workspace is extremely limited with 98% of the job being done with your left hand and head and left shoulder being jammed into the space behind the head as much as possible.  My wife did take some very unflattering pictures of me working on this project which I am not going to include.  I did leave the head installed so I had a place to rest my upper body while trying to work back in this incredibly cramped poorly engineered space.  If you are faced with replacing the aft holding tank valve on an A54 sail the boat to an Amel service center somewhere in the world and pay them to do it – this final statement is not meant to be humorous.  

https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/inline-valves/ibv-series-bspp-thread

 

--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

Jim Anderson
 

Eric,
Please confirm me for 1 unit, per Bill's knowledge.
Bill, thank you.
Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seattle


Re: GIANNESCHI. Freshwaterpump will not stop pumping?

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hi Porter, 

We installed a Marco 12E. All functions of the system are integrated into the pump itself. 

Well built!

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007, Opua, NZ


On 31/07/2020, at 9:53 AM, Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

Arthur we have the same occurrences. I corrosion X and slightly change the cutoffs and were good for about 6 months. But I’d like to know a long term solution!

Porter A54-152. IBIS. 



Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 
Www.fouribis.net

On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:32 PM, Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:

We have the Idromini Acb Waterpump from Gianneschi. Sometimes it will not stop, the pump continues. We have to stop it manually on the pressure switch....
I have pumped up to 2 bar and cleaned the pressure switch. When the motor or Onan generator starts vibrating the pump works well.
What fault could it be. Is it time to change the pump?
Renovate something?
Kindest regards and FAIR WINDS
Arthur Sundqvist
SM435, VISTA


Re: GIANNESCHI. Freshwaterpump will not stop pumping?

Arthur Sundqvist
 

Thanks for answer Porter!
I corrosion X and slightly change the cutoffs?? What does it mean practically. What needs to be done?
Regards Arthur


30 juli 2020 kl. 11:53 skrev Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts@...>:

Arthur we have the same occurrences. I corrosion X and slightly change the cutoffs and were good for about 6 months. But I’d like to know a long term solution!

Porter A54-152. IBIS. 



Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:32 PM, Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:corrosion
We have the Idromini Acb Waterpump from Gianneschi. Sometimes it will not stop, the pump continues. We have to stop it manually on the pressure switch....
I have pumped up to 2 bar and cleaned the pressure switch. When the motor or Onan generator starts vibrating the pump works well.
What fault could it be. Is it time to change the pump?
Renovate something?
Kindest regards and FAIR WINDS
Arthur Sundqvist
SM435, VISTA


Re: GIANNESCHI. Freshwaterpump will not stop pumping?

 

You can buy a new Sware D Pressure switch almost anywhere in the world, but adjusting it can be a challenge. Google for instructions to adjust...there may be a few good videos.

That said, the problem can likely be solved by disassembling the pressure switch and cleaning debris that will be on the pressure diaphragm. See the photo. It took me at least a dozen cotton swabs.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 4:53 PM Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Arthur we have the same occurrences. I corrosion X and slightly change the cutoffs and were good for about 6 months. But I’d like to know a long term solution!

Porter A54-152. IBIS. 



Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:32 PM, Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:

We have the Idromini Acb Waterpump from Gianneschi. Sometimes it will not stop, the pump continues. We have to stop it manually on the pressure switch....
I have pumped up to 2 bar and cleaned the pressure switch. When the motor or Onan generator starts vibrating the pump works well.
What fault could it be. Is it time to change the pump?
Renovate something?
Kindest regards and FAIR WINDS
Arthur Sundqvist
SM435, VISTA


Re: GIANNESCHI. Freshwaterpump will not stop pumping?

Porter McRoberts
 

Arthur we have the same occurrences. I corrosion X and slightly change the cutoffs and were good for about 6 months. But I’d like to know a long term solution!

Porter A54-152. IBIS. 



Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 
Www.fouribis.net

On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:32 PM, Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:

We have the Idromini Acb Waterpump from Gianneschi. Sometimes it will not stop, the pump continues. We have to stop it manually on the pressure switch....
I have pumped up to 2 bar and cleaned the pressure switch. When the motor or Onan generator starts vibrating the pump works well.
What fault could it be. Is it time to change the pump?
Renovate something?
Kindest regards and FAIR WINDS
Arthur Sundqvist
SM435, VISTA


GIANNESCHI. Freshwaterpump will not stop pumping?

Arthur Sundqvist
 

We have the Idromini Acb Waterpump from Gianneschi. Sometimes it will not stop, the pump continues. We have to stop it manually on the pressure switch....
I have pumped up to 2 bar and cleaned the pressure switch. When the motor or Onan generator starts vibrating the pump works well.
What fault could it be. Is it time to change the pump?
Renovate something?
Kindest regards and FAIR WINDS
Arthur Sundqvist
SM435, VISTA


Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

 

Jim, 

If original SM 384 has normally closed, part number 309-0295-01

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Thu, Jul 30, 2020, 10:14 AM Jim Anderson <capt.anderson@...> wrote:

Eric,

I won’t be aboard to tell witch model I have until 04 August. If ordering before then, then please cancel my order for 1 unit. Otherwise I’ll reply further on Wednesday. Thanks for doing this for the group,

 

Jim

SM384 Sirena Azul

Seattle


Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.

Jim Anderson
 

Eric,

I won’t be aboard to tell witch model I have until 04 August. If ordering before then, then please cancel my order for 1 unit. Otherwise I’ll reply further on Wednesday. Thanks for doing this for the group,

 

Jim

SM384 Sirena Azul

Seattle