[Edited Message Follows]

Vic,
There are some "standard" teak steps available that have non-slip grooves on one side. You may have to trim them a bit.  You can also cut grooves in a flat board with a table saw.
The steps screw onto the tabs of your ladder from the bottom side. When you install them, first put the passerelle plywood in place, turn it upside down and then lay in the steps so they will support the plywood along its length after they are fastened. (The end ones, in particular, need to be spaced so the plywood can slip into its retaining structure.)
Hope this helps.
By the way, where is Moon Dog locarted.
-- Craig, SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL

Hi Arno,

I have two broken lamps as shown in your email.  If you have any left I'll take two.  Please let me know how I can send you the postage and any other costs associated with the shipping.  Thanks much for the offer.  I'd prefer to send my address via a private email and not through the group mailbox.  You can reach me at bill.shaproski@... or +1-206-375-2787.

Ciao

Bill Shaproski

Pacific Cool SM

On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 2:36 PM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Dear Forum,

At cost of postage I have some original wall lights for most of the Amel 54's at offer.
I replaced all of my lights as several of them were getting pretty ugly. I still have 6 in good shape and 4 in reasonable state that should come out well once polished. The glass is still clear for all of them. I threw away the ones were the glass was stained by the heat.
Let me know if you are interested.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


 

--

Bill Shaproski

Cell:  +1-206-375-2787

Dear Forum,

At cost of postage I have some original wall lights for most of the Amel 54's at offer.
I replaced all of my lights as several of them were getting pretty ugly. I still have 6 in good shape and 4 in reasonable state that should come out well once polished. The glass is still clear for all of them. I threw away the ones were the glass was stained by the heat.
Let me know if you are interested.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


 

sorry for my english, i meant the bushing when I wrote bolt. And I meant the bolt when I wrote screw.

the bolt (screw) is perfect. Also the other caliper arm is ok. the bushing is only worn where it hold the weight...

[Edited Message Follows]

Here the feedback of the source of my shaky (no more working) brake problem.

The primary source was the aluminum bolt between the holding screw and the caliper. As you can see, the bolt is worn on the caliper arm, that holds all the weigth of the brake system.  Also the holes of this caliper arm are expanded / outworn (short before cracking). The outer arm of the caliper is fine. Also no damage on the bolt. 

A friend of mine  had the same problem. His AMEL 54 is nearly the same age as mine (2009).

Amel was very helpful and they send me the new caliper now. The new model already discussed here in the forum.

I hope it fit's into my caliper holding.

So it looks like it's something that will come up earlier or later on all 54's, since the aluminium bolt is not designed (or underdimensioned) to hold the weight of the braksystem a livetime....

I have 1.700 engine hours.

Ralph
AMEL 54, #144

This is really great info. Will try all of this out! Thanks!

-Vic "Moon Dog" SM248

On Wed, Aug 5, 2020 at 6:40 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

There are a number of other things for the passerelle.
Attached to my starboard backstay is a tubular rod that swings down and goes into a ring welded to the starboard side of the passarelle.
This prevents the passerelle from swinging back and forth.
The starboard halyard on the mizzen is connected to a piece of bungee cord. It attaches to the the stern most port loop on the top of the passerelle. If you adjust the tension correctly the passerelle will not touch the dock and to enter or exit you just pull the bungee cord down to the dock. Lastly there are 2 stainless poles with a thick line connecting them. The shackle attaches to the same spot as the bungee cord, then a stainless pole into a hole in the passarelle, more line and then the second pole into the passarelle. Finally there is a thinner line that ties to the middle stanchion on the stern. This makes a nice hand rail to balance while entering or exiting the boat.
You will find that this setup works best in the lower hole in the dstep on the stern
Fair Winds,'Eric
sm 376 Kimberlite

On August 5, 2020 at 3:48 PM Denise McGovern <Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:

Vic, 

On ours, the wheel side goes on the dock and the boat side has a short pole that goes into one of two available corresponding holes on the stern (one on deck and one on the top step). This allows the passerelle to pivot.

Hope this helps. Someone will likely have a photo for you soon.

Denise McGovern

S/V CARA 

SM 440

Chesapeake Bay

On Wed, Aug 5, 2020, 3:40 PM Vic Fryzel < vic.fryzel@...> wrote:

Hi,

Can folks please link me to any resources in terms of actually attaching the passerelle to the stern? I've found a couple of photos, but mostly in the photos it seems as though folks are just tying it to a stanchion and/or davit, and it's otherwise free to roll. Is that correct assuming I set the appropriate springs?

Thanks!
-Vic "Moon Dog" SM248

 

There are a number of other things for the passerelle.
Attached to my starboard backstay is a tubular rod that swings down and goes into a ring welded to the starboard side of the passarelle.
This prevents the passerelle from swinging back and forth.
The starboard halyard on the mizzen is connected to a piece of bungee cord. It attaches to the the stern most port loop on the top of the passerelle. If you adjust the tension correctly the passerelle will not touch the dock and to enter or exit you just pull the bungee cord down to the dock. Lastly there are 2 stainless poles with a thick line connecting them. The shackle attaches to the same spot as the bungee cord, then a stainless pole into a hole in the passarelle, more line and then the second pole into the passarelle. Finally there is a thinner line that ties to the middle stanchion on the stern. This makes a nice hand rail to balance while entering or exiting the boat.
You will find that this setup works best in the lower hole in the dstep on the stern
Fair Winds,'Eric
sm 376 Kimberlite

On August 5, 2020 at 3:48 PM Denise McGovern <Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:

Vic, 

On ours, the wheel side goes on the dock and the boat side has a short pole that goes into one of two available corresponding holes on the stern (one on deck and one on the top step). This allows the passerelle to pivot.

Hope this helps. Someone will likely have a photo for you soon.

Denise McGovern

S/V CARA 

SM 440

Chesapeake Bay

On Wed, Aug 5, 2020, 3:40 PM Vic Fryzel < vic.fryzel@...> wrote:

Hi,

Can folks please link me to any resources in terms of actually attaching the passerelle to the stern? I've found a couple of photos, but mostly in the photos it seems as though folks are just tying it to a stanchion and/or davit, and it's otherwise free to roll. Is that correct assuming I set the appropriate springs?

Thanks!
-Vic "Moon Dog" SM248