Re: AmelYachtOwners: Interior textiles SM
It is the same in our SM 2000 no 299 Danny
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On 07 August 2020 at 22:03 "Alexander Schenk via groups.io" <schenkschierloh@...> wrote: Hallo,
A question out of curiosity. We are planning to redo our interior textiles and are wondering if the design as shown is the original for a SM or SM2K, see photo attached.
Best regards Alexander Schenk
SY Antinea # 
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit
A grease nipple is not needed on this gearbox but a method of adding grease will lengthen the life of the gearbox attached to the furling motor and outhaul motor.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Thierry from Amel's support office advised me last week that the manual gearbox furler is filled with grease from the factory, not oil. He also said he was not aware of anyone having installed a grease nipple. Bill
Here's another data point: the brand new mizzen furler gearbox we bought from Amel for our SM came completely filled with grease. We've never noticed a drip.
Ryan and Kelly SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
Hi all, when I was at Marin Amel Martinica, they used a gray grease. No more drops Gianni Eutikia SM 428
Il Ven 7 Ago 2020, 17:28 CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> ha scritto: Craig, Kent, et al;
This is the best summary that I can give you of this obviously moving target. Most is based on verified fact, but some is based on logical conclusions. So take this with a grain of salt.
Shortly after Kent posted that, I was in discussions with the original supplier of that gearbox to Amel who is the same guy (no retired) that made the SM genoa gearbox and motor assembly. He said that Kent was correct. The oil that Kent specified is what he recommended. However, the practical usage of this gearbox and the lubrication of the gears causes me to conclude that even though the supplier of the gearbox suggested oil, it is not practical. And, FYI, I believe that every SM that I have seen has a wet input shaft seal. I also believe that as these gearboxes sat new on his shelf, none leaked.
This gearbox and its supplier was changed during the production of the 54. I assume that this change had something to do with no longer buying the genoa gearbox. The guy that originally supplied this gearbox and the genoa furling gearbox and motor retired. The new supplier (unknown to me) of that gearbox possibly "fixed" the poor fit of the oil seal. I know that the new supplier changed one seal in this gearbox from 45mmX60mmX7mm to 45mmX58mmX7mm, because one of my SM clients had one size and a 54 client had the other size.
Also, I should note that some owners observed, "The outer lip seal (for the input shaft) is 30x40x7 but might be a very sloppy fit. Use RTV or machined it out to fit a 30x41x7 Lip Seal." This note is included in my Amel Book for the rebuild of this gearbox.
Although it might have nothing to do with this, there is also an O ring that seals the input shaft plastic cover to the gearbox. Possibly some owners have missed this. One owner measured it as 1.4mm fitting into an O ring groove.
I hope that this helps.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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This may sum it all up - bottom line, grease, not oil:
- Bill Shaproski on Pacific Cool initiated the discussion.
- Randall on A54 #56 referred him to the YouTube video by Ken on Aquarius. In that video Ken used grease, not oil.
- Kent on Kristy said his was filled with “very heavy gear oil” and he used Shell Oil WE320 when he redid his but found it leaking onto the deck for a couple of days after.
- Bill Rouse then said “Kent is exactly correct” … to use WE320 and gave a source for buying it.
- Bill Shaproski then asked Kent if he meant the manual furler (not the gearbox driven by the electric motor) because he wondered if he could oil his in place. Kent said he poured the oil in with it lying on the bench before completing reassembly.
- Bill S noted again that Ken on Aquarius used grease, not oil. Jean-Pierre Germain on Eleuthera said you must install grease nipples, but then clarified that he was talking about the reduction gearboxes (driven by the electric motors) and that for the manual furler a fresh water rinse works fine for him.
- Kent then updated his situation and noted that his newly redone furler (using WE320, not grease) was (still) leaking onto the cabin top and he could redo it using grease.
- You, Fred on ScentStone, then posted to say you had used oil and it was leaking.
- I posted to reiterate that grease should be used.
- Bill Rouse then posted to say that he (now) thinks grease is to be used, not oil.
Fred, I think you’ve got your answer. There may have been some confusion in this tread between the manual furler and the reduction gear box. Definitely grease for the manual furler. For the reduction gearbox either 320 oil or grease, with perhaps the best being to use grease and add Zerk fittings for periodic maintenance.
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit

Bill Shaproski
Thierry from Amel's support office advised me last week that the manual gearbox furler is filled with grease from the factory, not oil. He also said he was not aware of anyone having installed a grease nipple. Bill
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Here's another data point: the brand new mizzen furler gearbox we bought from Amel for our SM came completely filled with grease. We've never noticed a drip.
Ryan and Kelly SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
Hi all, when I was at Marin Amel Martinica, they used a gray grease. No more drops Gianni Eutikia SM 428
Il Ven 7 Ago 2020, 17:28 CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> ha scritto: Craig, Kent, et al;
This is the best summary that I can give you of this obviously moving target. Most is based on verified fact, but some is based on logical conclusions. So take this with a grain of salt.
Shortly after Kent posted that, I was in discussions with the original supplier of that gearbox to Amel who is the same guy (no retired) that made the SM genoa gearbox and motor assembly. He said that Kent was correct. The oil that Kent specified is what he recommended. However, the practical usage of this gearbox and the lubrication of the gears causes me to conclude that even though the supplier of the gearbox suggested oil, it is not practical. And, FYI, I believe that every SM that I have seen has a wet input shaft seal. I also believe that as these gearboxes sat new on his shelf, none leaked.
This gearbox and its supplier was changed during the production of the 54. I assume that this change had something to do with no longer buying the genoa gearbox. The guy that originally supplied this gearbox and the genoa furling gearbox and motor retired. The new supplier (unknown to me) of that gearbox possibly "fixed" the poor fit of the oil seal. I know that the new supplier changed one seal in this gearbox from 45mmX60mmX7mm to 45mmX58mmX7mm, because one of my SM clients had one size and a 54 client had the other size.
Also, I should note that some owners observed, "The outer lip seal (for the input shaft) is 30x40x7 but might be a very sloppy fit. Use RTV or machined it out to fit a 30x41x7 Lip Seal." This note is included in my Amel Book for the rebuild of this gearbox.
Although it might have nothing to do with this, there is also an O ring that seals the input shaft plastic cover to the gearbox. Possibly some owners have missed this. One owner measured it as 1.4mm fitting into an O ring groove.
I hope that this helps.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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|
|
Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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This may sum it all up - bottom line, grease, not oil:
- Bill Shaproski on Pacific Cool initiated the discussion.
- Randall on A54 #56 referred him to the YouTube video by Ken on Aquarius. In that video Ken used grease, not oil.
- Kent on Kristy said his was filled with “very heavy gear oil” and he used Shell Oil WE320 when he redid his but found it leaking onto the deck for a couple of days after.
- Bill Rouse then said “Kent is exactly correct” … to use WE320 and gave a source for buying it.
- Bill Shaproski then asked Kent if he meant the manual furler (not the gearbox driven by the electric motor) because he wondered if he could oil his in place. Kent said he poured the oil in with it lying on the bench before completing reassembly.
- Bill S noted again that Ken on Aquarius used grease, not oil. Jean-Pierre Germain on Eleuthera said you must install grease nipples, but then clarified that he was talking about the reduction gearboxes (driven by the electric motors) and that for the manual furler a fresh water rinse works fine for him.
- Kent then updated his situation and noted that his newly redone furler (using WE320, not grease) was (still) leaking onto the cabin top and he could redo it using grease.
- You, Fred on ScentStone, then posted to say you had used oil and it was leaking.
- I posted to reiterate that grease should be used.
- Bill Rouse then posted to say that he (now) thinks grease is to be used, not oil.
Fred, I think you’ve got your answer. There may have been some confusion in this tread between the manual furler and the reduction gear box. Definitely grease for the manual furler. For the reduction gearbox either 320 oil or grease, with perhaps the best being to use grease and add Zerk fittings for periodic maintenance.
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit
Here's another data point: the brand new mizzen furler gearbox we bought from Amel for our SM came completely filled with grease. We've never noticed a drip.
Ryan and Kelly SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Hi all, when I was at Marin Amel Martinica, they used a gray grease. No more drops Gianni Eutikia SM 428
Il Ven 7 Ago 2020, 17:28 CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> ha scritto: Craig, Kent, et al;
This is the best summary that I can give you of this obviously moving target. Most is based on verified fact, but some is based on logical conclusions. So take this with a grain of salt.
Shortly after Kent posted that, I was in discussions with the original supplier of that gearbox to Amel who is the same guy (no retired) that made the SM genoa gearbox and motor assembly. He said that Kent was correct. The oil that Kent specified is what he recommended. However, the practical usage of this gearbox and the lubrication of the gears causes me to conclude that even though the supplier of the gearbox suggested oil, it is not practical. And, FYI, I believe that every SM that I have seen has a wet input shaft seal. I also believe that as these gearboxes sat new on his shelf, none leaked.
This gearbox and its supplier was changed during the production of the 54. I assume that this change had something to do with no longer buying the genoa gearbox. The guy that originally supplied this gearbox and the genoa furling gearbox and motor retired. The new supplier (unknown to me) of that gearbox possibly "fixed" the poor fit of the oil seal. I know that the new supplier changed one seal in this gearbox from 45mmX60mmX7mm to 45mmX58mmX7mm, because one of my SM clients had one size and a 54 client had the other size.
Also, I should note that some owners observed, "The outer lip seal (for the input shaft) is 30x40x7 but might be a very sloppy fit. Use RTV or machined it out to fit a 30x41x7 Lip Seal." This note is included in my Amel Book for the rebuild of this gearbox.
Although it might have nothing to do with this, there is also an O ring that seals the input shaft plastic cover to the gearbox. Possibly some owners have missed this. One owner measured it as 1.4mm fitting into an O ring groove.
I hope that this helps.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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|
|
Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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|
|
This may sum it all up - bottom line, grease, not oil:
- Bill Shaproski on Pacific Cool initiated the discussion.
- Randall on A54 #56 referred him to the YouTube video by Ken on Aquarius. In that video Ken used grease, not oil.
- Kent on Kristy said his was filled with “very heavy gear oil” and he used Shell Oil WE320 when he redid his but found it leaking onto the deck for a couple of days after.
- Bill Rouse then said “Kent is exactly correct” … to use WE320 and gave a source for buying it.
- Bill Shaproski then asked Kent if he meant the manual furler (not the gearbox driven by the electric motor) because he wondered if he could oil his in place. Kent said he poured the oil in with it lying on the bench before completing reassembly.
- Bill S noted again that Ken on Aquarius used grease, not oil. Jean-Pierre Germain on Eleuthera said you must install grease nipples, but then clarified that he was talking about the reduction gearboxes (driven by the electric motors) and that for the manual furler a fresh water rinse works fine for him.
- Kent then updated his situation and noted that his newly redone furler (using WE320, not grease) was (still) leaking onto the cabin top and he could redo it using grease.
- You, Fred on ScentStone, then posted to say you had used oil and it was leaking.
- I posted to reiterate that grease should be used.
- Bill Rouse then posted to say that he (now) thinks grease is to be used, not oil.
Fred, I think you’ve got your answer. There may have been some confusion in this tread between the manual furler and the reduction gear box. Definitely grease for the manual furler. For the reduction gearbox either 320 oil or grease, with perhaps the best being to use grease and add Zerk fittings for periodic maintenance.
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Updated Event: NEW: European distributor of LiFePO4 Lithium and Victron Energy joining ZOOM Meeting with Battle Born LiFePO4 Lithium Batteries - Saturday, 8 August 2020
#cal-invite
Everyone,
If you like the Victron Energy products and want to save money, and/or if you are thinking about LiFePO4 Lithium batteries, you should join this meeting.
A distributor for both products in Europe and another distributor for the rest of the world will be presenting during this meeting.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
NEW: European distributor of LiFePO4 Lithium and Victron Energy joining ZOOM Meeting with Battle Born LiFePO4 Lithium Batteries
When:
Saturday, 8 August 2020
20:00 to 21:00
(UTC+00:00) UTC
An RSVP is requested. Click here to RSVP
Description:
If you are interested in Lithium batteries for your Amel, you should attend this presentation by Jesse Asay of DragonFly, manufacturer of LiFePO4 Lithium Batteries with the brand Battle Born Batteries, and Transporter Energy Batteries (UK). Many of you know that Battle Born LiFePO4 Lithium batteries were installed in s/y DELOS. They have since been installed in several other Amels. Jesse will inform you of a Special Bundled Price exclusively for Amel owners of Battle Born batteries and Victron Energy devices.
Justin Richardson of Transporter Energy Batteries (UK), distributor of LiFePO4 Lithium batteries manufactured by DragonFly will also be on the call. Transporter Energy ss also a major European distributor for Victron Energy. I am in talks with Justin about a significant discount on Victron products for all Amel owners.
I encourage you to RSVP early for this presentation.
Join Zoom Meeting https://epfl.zoom.us/j/96789511226
Meeting ID: 967 8951 1226
Join by SIP 96789511226@...
YouTube:
From Tilo Peters: I just got the YouTube link set up for the live stream:
It’s on the AYOG channel and I uploaded the last two meetings on there as well.
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Updated Event: NEW: European distributor of LiFePO4 Lithium and Victron Energy joining ZOOM Meeting with Battle Born LiFePO4 Lithium Batteries - Saturday, 8 August 2020
#cal-invite
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar <main@...>
NEW: European distributor of LiFePO4 Lithium and Victron Energy joining ZOOM Meeting with Battle Born LiFePO4 Lithium Batteries
When:
Saturday, 8 August 2020
20:00 to 21:00
(UTC+00:00) UTC
An RSVP is requested. Click here to RSVP
Description:
If you are interested in Lithium batteries for your Amel, you should attend this presentation by Jesse Asay of DragonFly, manufacturer of LiFePO4 Lithium Batteries with the brand Battle Born Batteries, and Transporter Energy Batteries (UK). Many of you know that Battle Born LiFePO4 Lithium batteries were installed in s/y DELOS. They have since been installed in several other Amels. Jesse will inform you of a Special Bundled Price exclusively for Amel owners of Battle Born batteries and Victron Energy devices.
Justin Richardson of Transporter Energy Batteries (UK), distributor of LiFePO4 Lithium batteries manufactured by DragonFly will also be on the call. Transporter Energy ss also a major European distributor for Victron Energy. I am in talks with Justin about a significant discount on Victron products for all Amel owners.
I encourage you to RSVP early for this presentation.
Join Zoom Meeting https://epfl.zoom.us/j/96789511226
Meeting ID: 967 8951 1226
Join by SIP 96789511226@...
YouTube:
From Tilo Peters: I just got the YouTube link set up for the live stream:
It’s on the AYOG channel and I uploaded the last two meetings on there as well.
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit

Giovanni TESTA
Hi all, when I was at Marin Amel Martinica, they used a gray grease. No more drops Gianni Eutikia SM 428
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Il Ven 7 Ago 2020, 17:28 CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> ha scritto: Craig, Kent, et al;
This is the best summary that I can give you of this obviously moving target. Most is based on verified fact, but some is based on logical conclusions. So take this with a grain of salt.
Shortly after Kent posted that, I was in discussions with the original supplier of that gearbox to Amel who is the same guy (no retired) that made the SM genoa gearbox and motor assembly. He said that Kent was correct. The oil that Kent specified is what he recommended. However, the practical usage of this gearbox and the lubrication of the gears causes me to conclude that even though the supplier of the gearbox suggested oil, it is not practical. And, FYI, I believe that every SM that I have seen has a wet input shaft seal. I also believe that as these gearboxes sat new on his shelf, none leaked.
This gearbox and its supplier was changed during the production of the 54. I assume that this change had something to do with no longer buying the genoa gearbox. The guy that originally supplied this gearbox and the genoa furling gearbox and motor retired. The new supplier (unknown to me) of that gearbox possibly "fixed" the poor fit of the oil seal. I know that the new supplier changed one seal in this gearbox from 45mmX60mmX7mm to 45mmX58mmX7mm, because one of my SM clients had one size and a 54 client had the other size.
Also, I should note that some owners observed, "The outer lip seal (for the input shaft) is 30x40x7 but might be a very sloppy fit. Use RTV or machined it out to fit a 30x41x7 Lip Seal." This note is included in my Amel Book for the rebuild of this gearbox.
Although it might have nothing to do with this, there is also an O ring that seals the input shaft plastic cover to the gearbox. Possibly some owners have missed this. One owner measured it as 1.4mm fitting into an O ring groove.
I hope that this helps.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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|
|
Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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|
|
This may sum it all up - bottom line, grease, not oil:
- Bill Shaproski on Pacific Cool initiated the discussion.
- Randall on A54 #56 referred him to the YouTube video by Ken on Aquarius. In that video Ken used grease, not oil.
- Kent on Kristy said his was filled with “very heavy gear oil” and he used Shell Oil WE320 when he redid his but found it leaking onto the deck for a couple of days after.
- Bill Rouse then said “Kent is exactly correct” … to use WE320 and gave a source for buying it.
- Bill Shaproski then asked Kent if he meant the manual furler (not the gearbox driven by the electric motor) because he wondered if he could oil his in place. Kent said he poured the oil in with it lying on the bench before completing reassembly.
- Bill S noted again that Ken on Aquarius used grease, not oil. Jean-Pierre Germain on Eleuthera said you must install grease nipples, but then clarified that he was talking about the reduction gearboxes (driven by the electric motors) and that for the manual furler a fresh water rinse works fine for him.
- Kent then updated his situation and noted that his newly redone furler (using WE320, not grease) was (still) leaking onto the cabin top and he could redo it using grease.
- You, Fred on ScentStone, then posted to say you had used oil and it was leaking.
- I posted to reiterate that grease should be used.
- Bill Rouse then posted to say that he (now) thinks grease is to be used, not oil.
Fred, I think you’ve got your answer. There may have been some confusion in this tread between the manual furler and the reduction gear box. Definitely grease for the manual furler. For the reduction gearbox either 320 oil or grease, with perhaps the best being to use grease and add Zerk fittings for periodic maintenance.
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit
Craig, Kent, et al;
This is the best summary that I can give you of this obviously moving target. Most is based on verified fact, but some is based on logical conclusions. So take this with a grain of salt.
Shortly after Kent posted that, I was in discussions with the original supplier of that gearbox to Amel who is the same guy (no retired) that made the SM genoa gearbox and motor assembly. He said that Kent was correct. The oil that Kent specified is what he recommended. However, the practical usage of this gearbox and the lubrication of the gears causes me to conclude that even though the supplier of the gearbox suggested oil, it is not practical. And, FYI, I believe that every SM that I have seen has a wet input shaft seal. I also believe that as these gearboxes sat new on his shelf, none leaked.
This gearbox and its supplier was changed during the production of the 54. I assume that this change had something to do with no longer buying the genoa gearbox. The guy that originally supplied this gearbox and the genoa furling gearbox and motor retired. The new supplier (unknown to me) of that gearbox possibly "fixed" the poor fit of the oil seal. I know that the new supplier changed one seal in this gearbox from 45mmX60mmX7mm to 45mmX58mmX7mm, because one of my SM clients had one size and a 54 client had the other size.
Also, I should note that some owners observed, "The outer lip seal (for the input shaft) is 30x40x7 but might be a very sloppy fit. Use RTV or machined it out to fit a 30x41x7 Lip Seal." This note is included in my Amel Book for the rebuild of this gearbox.
Although it might have nothing to do with this, there is also an O ring that seals the input shaft plastic cover to the gearbox. Possibly some owners have missed this. One owner measured it as 1.4mm fitting into an O ring groove.
I hope that this helps.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
|
|
|
Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
|
|
|
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
This may sum it all up - bottom line, grease, not oil:
- Bill Shaproski on Pacific Cool initiated the discussion.
- Randall on A54 #56 referred him to the YouTube video by Ken on Aquarius. In that video Ken used grease, not oil.
- Kent on Kristy said his was filled with “very heavy gear oil” and he used Shell Oil WE320 when he redid his but found it leaking onto the deck for a couple of days after.
- Bill Rouse then said “Kent is exactly correct” … to use WE320 and gave a source for buying it.
- Bill Shaproski then asked Kent if he meant the manual furler (not the gearbox driven by the electric motor) because he wondered if he could oil his in place. Kent said he poured the oil in with it lying on the bench before completing reassembly.
- Bill S noted again that Ken on Aquarius used grease, not oil. Jean-Pierre Germain on Eleuthera said you must install grease nipples, but then clarified that he was talking about the reduction gearboxes (driven by the electric motors) and that for the manual furler a fresh water rinse works fine for him.
- Kent then updated his situation and noted that his newly redone furler (using WE320, not grease) was (still) leaking onto the cabin top and he could redo it using grease.
- You, Fred on ScentStone, then posted to say you had used oil and it was leaking.
- I posted to reiterate that grease should be used.
- Bill Rouse then posted to say that he (now) thinks grease is to be used, not oil.
Fred, I think you’ve got your answer. There may have been some confusion in this tread between the manual furler and the reduction gear box. Definitely grease for the manual furler. For the reduction gearbox either 320 oil or grease, with perhaps the best being to use grease and add Zerk fittings for periodic maintenance.
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: AmelYachtOwners: Interior textiles SM

Alexander Schenk
Thank you very much for all your input. If somebody is interested in the old drapery etc, pls send me a personal message.
Best Alexander Schenk SY Antinea
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On 7 Aug 2020, at 15:02, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
That drapery fabric shown in the photo is a cotton print fabric. Cotton prints are constantly changed by the manufacturers of the fabric and there are hundreds of manufacturers of cotton prints, worldwide. I can guarantee you that it will be impossible to find the exact match, but you will certainly be able to find something that will work well for you. Cotton prints are usually made with the pattern "down the roll." The original SM 2k fabric shown is a "down the roll" pattern. This is what you want, because of the longer pieces used on closets and elsewhere. When you are shopping, "down the roll" and "railroaded patters" will be available. "Railroaded patterns" primarily exist to upholster furniture, not drapery
The key to doing a good job on the drapery is to sew in a UV and light blocking liner. If you do not, the cotton print will fade withing 1 year of sunlight. Select the liner well.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Fri, Aug 7, 2020 at 5:55 AM Slavko D. < slavko@...> wrote: Hi,
on my #279 SM 2000 is the same.
regards,
Slavko
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit

Craig Briggs
This may sum it all up - bottom line, grease, not oil:
- Bill Shaproski on Pacific Cool initiated the discussion.
- Randall on A54 #56 referred him to the YouTube video by Ken on Aquarius. In that video Ken used grease, not oil.
- Kent on Kristy said his was filled with “very heavy gear oil” and he used Shell Oil WE320 when he redid his but found it leaking onto the deck for a couple of days after.
- Bill Rouse then said “Kent is exactly correct” … to use WE320 and gave a source for buying it.
- Bill Shaproski then asked Kent if he meant the manual furler (not the gearbox driven by the electric motor) because he wondered if he could oil his in place. Kent said he poured the oil in with it lying on the bench before completing reassembly.
- Bill S noted again that Ken on Aquarius used grease, not oil. Jean-Pierre Germain on Eleuthera said you must install grease nipples, but then clarified that he was talking about the reduction gearboxes (driven by the electric motors) and that for the manual furler a fresh water rinse works fine for him.
- Kent then updated his situation and noted that his newly redone furler (using WE320, not grease) was (still) leaking onto the cabin top and he could redo it using grease.
- You, Fred on ScentStone, then posted to say you had used oil and it was leaking.
- I posted to reiterate that grease should be used.
- Bill Rouse then posted to say that he (now) thinks grease is to be used, not oil.
Fred, I think you’ve got your answer. There may have been some confusion in this tread between the manual furler and the reduction gear box. Definitely grease for the manual furler. For the reduction gearbox either 320 oil or grease, with perhaps the best being to use grease and add Zerk fittings for periodic maintenance. Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit
Grease is my friend! I would use grease.
I think the issue with oil is that if you get enough inside to lubricate both gears, the oil level is higher than the input shaft. I do not believe that the seal on the input shaft is designed to retain liquid. Look at the drawing below. If the oil level (RED) is as high as the shaft, I believe it will leak. If the oil level is lower than the bottom of the shaft, it will not leak, but it likely will not lubricate the gears.
I suggest grease, even though it is possible the manufacturer suggested a very thick oil.
It is possible that you might be able to change the size of the input shaft seal on get a good enough seal to retain oil. That will need someone to test.
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Hi Fred, I believe the Amel employee told you correctly to use grease, not oil (even 320 viscosity). It is basically a winch, not a high speed gear box and you should grease it like a winch. The oil will leak out, although, like bleeding, it will stop eventually :-)
I don't know the source of the recommendation you note to use 320 oil, although Kent and I discussed that on this forum as being the original oil in the Bonfiglioli (or other brand) "reductori" reduction gear boxes that are driven by the electric furling motors. Many of us have changed that out to conventional grease with Zerk fittings added for periodic replenishment, although in that appllication either should be fine.
Hope this helps, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: AmelYachtOwners: Interior textiles SM
That drapery fabric shown in the photo is a cotton print fabric. Cotton prints are constantly changed by the manufacturers of the fabric and there are hundreds of manufacturers of cotton prints, worldwide. I can guarantee you that it will be impossible to find the exact match, but you will certainly be able to find something that will work well for you. Cotton prints are usually made with the pattern "down the roll." The original SM 2k fabric shown is a "down the roll" pattern. This is what you want, because of the longer pieces used on closets and elsewhere. When you are shopping, "down the roll" and "railroaded patters" will be available. "Railroaded patterns" primarily exist to upholster furniture, not drapery
The key to doing a good job on the drapery is to sew in a UV and light blocking liner. If you do not, the cotton print will fade withing 1 year of sunlight. Select the liner well.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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On Fri, Aug 7, 2020 at 5:55 AM Slavko D. < slavko@...> wrote: Hi,
on my #279 SM 2000 is the same.
regards,
Slavko
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit

Craig Briggs
Hi Fred, I believe the Amel employee told you correctly to use grease, not oil (even 320 viscosity). It is basically a winch, not a high speed gear box and you should grease it like a winch. The oil will leak out, although, like bleeding, it will stop eventually :-)
I don't know the source of the recommendation you note to use 320 oil, although Kent and I discussed that on this forum as being the original oil in the Bonfiglioli (or other brand) "reductori" reduction gear boxes that are driven by the electric furling motors. Many of us have changed that out to conventional grease with Zerk fittings added for periodic replenishment, although in that appllication either should be fine.
Hope this helps, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: AmelYachtOwners: Interior textiles SM

Slavko Despotovic
Hi,
on my #279 SM 2000 is the same.
regards,
Slavko
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Re: AmelYachtOwners: Interior textiles SM
While that is Amel material, it was used on boats built a few years later than yours. I can tell by the drawer pulls and saloon lamps you have a "Classic" model SM 53. It is always helpful to place your model year and hull number below the boat name. JOEL F. POTTER CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY Office 954-462-5869
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On Aug 7, 2020, at 6:33 AM, Alexander Schenk via groups.io <schenkschierloh@...> wrote:
Hallo,
A question out of curiosity. We are planning to redo our interior textiles and are wondering if the design as shown is the original for a SM or SM2K, see photo attached.
Best regards Alexander Schenk
SY Antinea # <image0.jpeg>
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AmelYachtOwners: Interior textiles SM

Alexander Schenk
Hallo,
A question out of curiosity. We are planning to redo our interior textiles and are wondering if the design as shown is the original for a SM or SM2K, see photo attached.
Best regards Alexander Schenk
SY Antinea # 
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Slavko Despotovic
Hello,
this is how is done on my Amel SM 2000.
regards,
slavko
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Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit
Hi Bill and all experienced sailors who shared about lubricating the manual main sail furler on SMs.
After servicing it with all brand new seals etc. I was said by a former Amel employee to grease inside (I wasn't sure that he already serviced this part so I went through the recommended Omala S4 WE320 which I was able to source in UK ;-)
Once the system was re-installed, the lubricating oil started to leak from the cover (where the handle inserts) even with a brand new seal and a lot of precaution at installing it… (even after trying to glue it for better sealing)
Can you please confirm that I made some mistakes and that none of you had leaks with this lighter than grease oil? Or is it because I placed too much oil in the furler and that it'll stop soon or late …
Thanks a lot in advance for all insight about that before trying to remove (and replace) it again ;-)
Fred
S/V ScentStone
SM2K #375
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Lasi heard Eirie Pennsylvania.
Randall A54#56
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[Edited Message Follows]
Vic, There are some "standard" teak steps available that have non-slip grooves on one side. You may have to trim them a bit. You can also cut grooves in a flat board with a table saw. The steps screw onto the tabs of your ladder from the bottom side. When you install them, first put the passerelle plywood in place, turn it upside down and then lay in the steps so they will support the plywood along its length after they are fastened. (The end ones, in particular, need to be spaced so the plywood can slip into its retaining structure.) Hope this helps. By the way, where is Moon Dog locarted. -- Craig, SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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I purchased Plasteak material (google it). They sold it to me with grooves cut into it. It is almost the same width of the swim ladder steps, same thickness and has been on board in the sun for about 12 years and has not faded. I think it was 12 feet long so they shipped it cut in half. . I looks exactly like teak. boat ran into my ladder years ago and broke a few steps.
I just wish Amel used this on everything wood outside the cabin.
Fair winds,
Eric
sm376 kimberlite
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On August 6, 2020 at 11:41 AM Vic Fryzel <vic.fryzel@...> wrote:
Also, have folks had the steps/platform redone on their passerelle? Mine are missing. Just curious if anyone has any advice there too.
This is really great info. Will try all of this out! Thanks!
There are a number of other things for the passerelle.
Attached to my starboard backstay is a tubular rod that swings down and goes into a ring welded to the starboard side of the passarelle.
This prevents the passerelle from swinging back and forth.
The starboard halyard on the mizzen is connected to a piece of bungee cord. It attaches to the the stern most port loop on the top of the passerelle. If you adjust the tension correctly the passerelle will not touch the dock and to enter or exit you just pull the bungee cord down to the dock. Lastly there are 2 stainless poles with a thick line connecting them. The shackle attaches to the same spot as the bungee cord, then a stainless pole into a hole in the passarelle, more line and then the second pole into the passarelle. Finally there is a thinner line that ties to the middle stanchion on the stern. This makes a nice hand rail to balance while entering or exiting the boat.
You will find that this setup works best in the lower hole in the dstep on the stern
Fair Winds,'Eric
sm 376 Kimberlite
On August 5, 2020 at 3:48 PM Denise McGovern <
Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:
Vic,
On ours, the wheel side goes on the dock and the boat side has a short pole that goes into one of two available corresponding holes on the stern (one on deck and one on the top step). This allows the passerelle to pivot.
Hope this helps. Someone will likely have a photo for you soon.
Denise McGovern
S/V CARA
SM 440
Chesapeake Bay
Hi,
Can folks please link me to any resources in terms of actually attaching the passerelle to the stern? I've found a couple of photos, but mostly in the photos it seems as though folks are just tying it to a stanchion and/or davit, and it's otherwise free to roll. Is that correct assuming I set the appropriate springs?
Thanks!
-Vic "Moon Dog" SM248
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