Date   

Re: Amel 54. Has anyone ever taken the electric diesel tank level meter/sensor out of the tank?

Gary Wells
 
Edited

I replaced the sensor on Adagio and could not find an exact match (I forget the model number, but it was indeed on a label on the sensor).

I wrote to Wema, they offered a couple of options and  finally they custom built a 20 sensor unit that was reasonably priced and shipped quicky.

I was extremely pleased with how they worked with me and how the replacement part for and works. 

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
Maryland, USA


Re: Dolphin power 1 battery chargers

Ross Hickey & Donna Hammond
 

Thanks Stefan,

Can you please send the attachment.

Kind regards 

On Wednesday, August 19, 2020, 2:30 pm, Stefan Jeukendrup <sjeukendrup@...> wrote:

Hi Ross,

Here is the French manual for the 30/50A  charger Dolphin/ CATS POWER DESIGN  send me.
It has a switch "Gel"or "free".


Hope this helps you,

Stefan Jeukendrup
svMalaka Queen
SM2k #348 ~ Montenegro-Turkey


Re: Wifi extenders and the bonding system

Mark Garver
 

I will second what Arno says about Marina wi-fi, I have an extender on the backstay, didn’t help with internet performance. Sure it gave me better wi-fi signal, but internet still sucked. After speaking with a few others at the marina, I went with the following solution which works great. You have to supply your own 4G SIM Card and data plan, but this thing rocks and for the price it is a great option.


Mark
SV-Its Good
SM #105
Gloucester Point, VA

On Aug 18, 2020, at 5:20 PM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Scott,

There are still Badboys for sale here at Island Waterworld. I can’t test the thing at the moment as the boat is away for the hurricane season.

I did do the same tests as you for connectivity and found the connection quality much better at lower levels and away from the mast. Most marinas I’ve been either have a domestic router working so bad (congestion) it makes no sense to use them anyway or they use several directional antennas pointed at the different pontoons. The latter assumes connection at lower levels.
From experience I prefer using a 3/4G SIM & router to save myself the annoyance of Acces point congestion you get in most “free” WiFi spots.

Cheers,

Arno


Re: 175A alternator belts

Lior Keydar
 

Dear Nick

My hull nr. is #18... As I bought the boat, I also had the 175A alternator and it was the same problem. 
There was also  a package from Amel with a replacement to this alternator. Mastervolt 110A and its regulator. In order to install the new alternator, you have to release the Volvo Engine from its place and connect the alternator on the left side of the engine. At this solution, you use the same belt that is used for the sea water pump. 
It is not such a simple solution but if you are interested, AMEL will be for sure able to help you with more information.

Lior
Sharona, A54 #18


Re: Dolphin power 1 battery chargers

Stefan Jeukendrup
 

Hi Ross,

Here is the French manual for the 30/50A  charger Dolphin/ CATS POWER DESIGN  send me.
It has a switch "Gel"or "free".


Hope this helps you,

Stefan Jeukendrup
svMalaka Queen
SM2k #348 ~ Montenegro-Turkey


Dolphin power 1 battery chargers

Ross Hickey & Donna Hammond
 

Hi team,

Can anyone advise if the Dolphin power 1 - 24v/100amp and 24v/30amp chargers can be programmed to accept Gel batteries.

If not any advise on best charger set up to accept Gel batteries and adjustments to service alternator regulator would be appreciated.

The Gel batteries would also be charged by three 215W solar panels through a Victron MPPT.

Kind regards
Ross and Donna
SM2K 2000
Intrepid Kiwi
Currently in Turkey


Re: New Generator

Heinz Stutenbaeumer
 

Hallo i ordert the 

Marine Onan RS 8 QD Model MDKBW


It is a littel bit smaler and not so heavy but it has more rpm 
Cheers Heinz

Am 19.08.2020 09:20 schrieb Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222 <Bijorka@...>:

Hallo Heinz

May I ask which generstor you took must have a new one too.

Best Elja
SM Balu
222



Von meinem iPhone gesendet





Re: New Generator

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

Hallo Heinz

May I ask which generstor you took must have a new one too.

Best Elja
SM Balu
222



Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Re: Wifi extenders and the bonding system

Gerhard Mueller
 

Are you using the 2.4 GHz or the 5 GHz Ubiqiti? I don't know a dual band Ubiquiti.
I'm using the 2.4 GHz Ubiquiti for over 10 years now in its plastic case without any problems but in European marinas.
Some knowledge about networking is useful anyway, e.g. if you have another router in your network there must be only one DHCP.
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


New Generator

heinz@quetzal.berlin
 


Hello 
The new generator was installed in my Quetzal. Now the problem is that the old exhaust outlet is a bit bigger than the old one. The old exhaust is 40mm, the new 50mm. The company that installs the generator suggests to reduce the diameter. Another variant would be to enlarge the fuselage passage, i.e. to replace it. Is there someone with experience 
Thank you for your messages, stay healthy. 
Heinz sv Quetzal, Sm 2000, 292, Whangarei NZ at the moment because of Corona unfortunately not on board but in Berlin 


Re: Amel 54. Has anyone ever taken the electric diesel tank level meter/sensor out of the tank?

Stefan Jeukendrup
 

Hi Arno,


I can only tell for my SM2000 #348, hoping that a 54  has a similar solution.
WEMA S2-1170F
It is basically  a resistor divider with reed relays. The float contains a magnet closing one of the reed relays.

I found that the inaccuracy was due to the natural 24V battery voltage changes and the bleeder resistor.
So I put a 12V voltage regulator in series and changed the bleeder resistor value so that there is always a constant 12V on top of the resistor divider.
Then  checked its calibration ( by tank volume/ float position comparison)
It is better now.

Hope this helps you,

Stefan Jeukendrup
sv Malaka Queen
SM2k #348  @ Montenegro


Re: Wifi extenders and the bonding system

Arno Luijten
 

Scott,

There are still Badboys for sale here at Island Waterworld. I can’t test the thing at the moment as the boat is away for the hurricane season.

I did do the same tests as you for connectivity and found the connection quality much better at lower levels and away from the mast. Most marinas I’ve been either have a domestic router working so bad (congestion) it makes no sense to use them anyway or they use several directional antennas pointed at the different pontoons. The latter assumes connection at lower levels.
From experience I prefer using a 3/4G SIM & router to save myself the annoyance of Acces point congestion you get in most “free” WiFi spots.

Cheers,

Arno


Re: Wifi extenders and the bonding system

Scott SV Tengah
 

Arno,

I am not worried about the distant access point's radiation pattern. In almost all cases, it's a simple router like the one you use at home with a low gain antenna. If you look at the link on the previous pic, their radiation pattern is likely similar to a 360deg globe of a 2dbi antenna. 

The simple fact is that I ran a test in a few locations with the new device located on the solar arch, 1/3 the way up the mast on a halyard, 2/3 of the way and then at the masthead. Using speedtest.net and packetlosstest.net I almost always got better throughput and faster and more stable response times (ping and jitter) from the masthead location. Now if you're rolling 20 degrees side to side at a rolly anchorage, then my 25-30 degree vertical beam may miss the hotspot while rolling, but I probably wouldn't be surfing the net if I'm rolling that much. :) If you're at a marina and the access point is less than 40 meters away, the same problem may exist, but at that range, I'll just connect my computer directly to the access point vs. through the outdoor antenna.

Your Badboy is based on a Ubiquiti Bullet M2HP-Ti. Badboy packages it, calls it marine and charges you a multiple of the actual price. I know this because I had a Wirie Pro which did the same thing with the same Ubiquiti device and charged me even more. BTW the "Ti" stands for titanium but it's really aluminum. And it never worked right as they set it up incorrectly and the external wifi antenna would interfere with the hotspot their LTE router created inside the boat. I tested this by sitting right next to a very close access point with the antenna in the same location (and height) as my computer. Directly connecting with my computer resulted in 5x faster speeds. And the signal to noise ratio was much better on my computer. 

I ended up going from knowing almost nothing about wifi to learning a lot. I ended up setting up taking the Wirie Pro apart and just using the Ubiquiti M2HP-Ti with the stock Ubiquiti AirOS firmware and pairing it to a Mikrotik WaP AC router operating on 5ghz. The latter made all the difference but it took me a year and the help of a VP of Engineering from a well known Silicon Valley company to set it up! Mikrotik's RouterOS is not for non-network pros, I've learned!

Sadly, the Ubiquiti died after 2 years and now I'm looking for the replacement since they're no longer sold. My Ubiquiti and the subsequent Alfa are all connected the same way from the external device, which as you note, has the WAN (wide area network) part of the wifi system to my Mikrotik "inside wifi" system via a Cat7 shielded ethernet cable that delivers both power and data. The Ubiquiti Bullet, Alfa Tube and Mikrotik Groove/Metal 52AC are all connected this way.

The Wirie Pro was put in a Pelican case which was mounted on the arch, so isolated in that manner. I didn't get a chance to test whether the Bullet was case grounded, but now I think about it, the Bullet did show a lot of corrosion on it. Perhaps you can stick a multimeter between an in-operation Badboy/Bullet case and battery pos and battery neg. I'm curious whether you'll see 24+ volts. 


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Amel 54. Has anyone ever taken the electric diesel tank level meter/sensor out of the tank?

Scott SV Tengah
 

I've taken it out to check how dirty my tank was. Very easy to do but I have no idea what the model number is. 

There are two inspection hatches on the top of the tank. It's the forward hatch with the wires going to it.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Sand Blasting

Patrick McAneny
 

Joel, Bill pointed that out to me ,but what he sent and I read ,left me wondering if they were referring to using high pressure above the waterline,which they stayed several inches below. In any event ,as they did not blast it to the point that they even removed all the paint ,I cannot see how any water could of penetrated the gel coat ,certainly does not appear to be the case and once the sanding was done the hull was smooth as can be and appeared completely dry. I suppose if the operator was not careful ,damage could be done ,perhaps that is why they stopped short of removing all the paint. The work is being done at Haven Harbor in Rock Hall and they have a very good reputation for doing excellent work. I will probably  not apply the barrier coat until spring ,with Covid ,I think we will probably sit this winter out .
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: amelforme <jfpottercys@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Aug 18, 2020 8:15 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sand Blasting

Hi Pat. Before you paint the bottom or apply any coatings, be certain to have the bottom checked with a moisture meter over its entire surface. It states in the Amel owner’s manual in the third section of the users guide several things about using high pressure washing below the waterline. It says to never use more than 1130 psi/80 bars of pressure, always from a distance of more than 8 inches/20cm, and at an angle of 45 degrees and never perpendicular. It is generally recognized that using pressure above 2500 psi is detrimental to any polyester or epoxy resin fiberglass laminate.
 
Be sure that you have an acceptable level of moisture in the laminates before you proceed to refinishing.
 
I have seen first hand the detrimental effects that extreme high pressure washing can produce and it is never pretty. If you would find it helpful, give me a call after you get your moisture readings and I’ll give you some advice based on experience that should be helpful.
 
All the best,
Joel
 
           JOEL F. POTTER ~ CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST, L.L.C.
                                         The Experienced AMEL Guy
UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE
                                  Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2020 7:54 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sand Blasting
 
James, There was one area ,about 8 sq. inches where there must have been a void where the first or last layer of fiberglass was partially removed ,the manager said that sand blasting would have opened it up as well. It will be a simple fix and I will be doing about three or four coats of barrier coat . There is no other area where all the paint was removed ,so no damage to the gel coat,after a light sanding the gel coat is as smooth as can be. The yard did not consult with me on power washing as opposed to sandblasting ,which concerned me ,but I am glad they went with it. 
Thanks,
Pat
 
-----Original Message-----
From: James Alton via groups.io <lokiyawl2@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Aug 17, 2020 7:56 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sand Blasting
Pat,
 
   This sounds like an interesting option to me and apparently there was no damage done to your gel coat.   I like the fact that you avoided using harsh chemicals.  You also checked your boats bottom for loose putty and voids in this process whether you realize it, since 5000 PSI can take anything off that is not well attached and can open up voids near the surface!  I had the bottom of my boat checked with an ultrasound during the initial surgery looking for voids, delaminations etc. and non were found.  That would not be the case on many non Amel hulls.  It seems that Amel does a very good job with their laminations in getting out all of the air, especially at the critical gel coat interface.  Really glad that this worked out for you.
 
James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220
 
On Aug 17, 2020, at 5:02 PM, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:
 
A few weeks ago I mentioned that I intended to have by boat sandblasted , I paid for it ,but they did something different,maybe better. I went to see what progress had been made on repairs . The bottom paint ,several layers was mostly gone ,with maybe a half thin coat still attached to the hull. I was confused ,since I expected it to be blasted down to the gel coat . What they did was to use a 5000 psi powerwasher with a rotating turbo head which blasted most of the paint off . I missed that part ,but while I was there a workman used a 7" orbital sander with 60 grit to take it the rest of the way down to the gel coat. He did a 20 sq. ft. area in about 15 minutes . So it should take about 9 hrs of sanding. What he did looks perfect and no concerns for damage to the gel coat. 
Just thought I would put this out there, as another option to sand or soda blasting
Pat
SM Shenanigans 
 


Amel 54. Has anyone ever taken the electric diesel tank level meter/sensor out of the tank?

Arno Luijten
 

Dear Forum,

I'm wondering which model level meter/sensor Amel used inside the diesel tank. I know it is far from accurate looking at gauge at several points of filling. I was wondering if the thing actually goes to the bottom of the tank.
Any information is appreciated.

Kind regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Sand Blasting

amelforme
 

Hi Pat. Before you paint the bottom or apply any coatings, be certain to have the bottom checked with a moisture meter over its entire surface. It states in the Amel owner’s manual in the third section of the users guide several things about using high pressure washing below the waterline. It says to never use more than 1130 psi/80 bars of pressure, always from a distance of more than 8 inches/20cm, and at an angle of 45 degrees and never perpendicular. It is generally recognized that using pressure above 2500 psi is detrimental to any polyester or epoxy resin fiberglass laminate.

 

Be sure that you have an acceptable level of moisture in the laminates before you proceed to refinishing.

 

I have seen first hand the detrimental effects that extreme high pressure washing can produce and it is never pretty. If you would find it helpful, give me a call after you get your moisture readings and I’ll give you some advice based on experience that should be helpful.

 

All the best,

Joel

 

           JOEL F. POTTER ~ CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST, L.L.C.

                                         The Experienced AMEL Guy

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                  Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2020 7:54 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sand Blasting

 

James, There was one area ,about 8 sq. inches where there must have been a void where the first or last layer of fiberglass was partially removed ,the manager said that sand blasting would have opened it up as well. It will be a simple fix and I will be doing about three or four coats of barrier coat . There is no other area where all the paint was removed ,so no damage to the gel coat,after a light sanding the gel coat is as smooth as can be. The yard did not consult with me on power washing as opposed to sandblasting ,which concerned me ,but I am glad they went with it. 

Thanks,

Pat

 

-----Original Message-----
From: James Alton via groups.io <lokiyawl2@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Aug 17, 2020 7:56 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sand Blasting

Pat,

 

   This sounds like an interesting option to me and apparently there was no damage done to your gel coat.   I like the fact that you avoided using harsh chemicals.  You also checked your boats bottom for loose putty and voids in this process whether you realize it, since 5000 PSI can take anything off that is not well attached and can open up voids near the surface!  I had the bottom of my boat checked with an ultrasound during the initial surgery looking for voids, delaminations etc. and non were found.  That would not be the case on many non Amel hulls.  It seems that Amel does a very good job with their laminations in getting out all of the air, especially at the critical gel coat interface.  Really glad that this worked out for you.

 

James

SV Sueño

Maramu #220

 

On Aug 17, 2020, at 5:02 PM, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:

 

A few weeks ago I mentioned that I intended to have by boat sandblasted , I paid for it ,but they did something different,maybe better. I went to see what progress had been made on repairs . The bottom paint ,several layers was mostly gone ,with maybe a half thin coat still attached to the hull. I was confused ,since I expected it to be blasted down to the gel coat . What they did was to use a 5000 psi powerwasher with a rotating turbo head which blasted most of the paint off . I missed that part ,but while I was there a workman used a 7" orbital sander with 60 grit to take it the rest of the way down to the gel coat. He did a 20 sq. ft. area in about 15 minutes . So it should take about 9 hrs of sanding. What he did looks perfect and no concerns for damage to the gel coat. 
Just thought I would put this out there, as another option to sand or soda blasting
Pat
SM Shenanigans 

 


Re: Water hoses in engine room

Kevin Fox
 

Vic,

I'm no expert, but here are my experiences.  I've recently replaced a lot of the engine room hoses on Rascal due to rusted hose clamps, stiff hoses, and to simplify some non-Amel modifications.

1. I've been using various grades of Trident hose for fresh and sea water.  They are mostly transparent but reinforced with either fiber or a PVC helix.  It's helpful to be able to see whether liquid is inside, particularly when troubleshooting a bilge pump issue.
2. Doubling the hose clamps is dependent upon the length of the fitting that the hose slips over.  If the fitting is too short, adding a second hose clamp can do more harm than good.  If there's room, I've used two.  Be sure to look for good quality stainless steel hose clamps, preferably not the perforated type.
3. I don't know.  Rascal had a minimal number of valves in the water systems and I've kept it that way.  I added a lot of isolation valves when re-plumbing my house, and they weren't worth the trouble.  I replaced a couple leaking metallic valves on Rascal's water maker with PVC valves.  I'll be watching to see how well they hold up.  
4. A ratcheting pipe cutter or flexible tubing cutter will make your job much easier by giving fast, clean cuts:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Flexible-Tube-Cutter-97642/304217583?modalType=drawer
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-1-4-in-Ratcheting-PVC-Cutter-16PL0101-1/304217581?modalType=drawer
A heat gun is very helpful for both removal and installation of hoses.  I use a cordless one, which avoids combining AC voltages with work close to water:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-18-Volt-ONE-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Heat-Gun-Tool-Only-P3150/306925921?modalType=drawer
5. You need to use hose that is reinforced so that it doesn't collapse under the vacuum of the bilge pumps.  It will be sold as bilge hose.
6. I ordered my materials online from Defender.  I wasn't able to use a local supplier, but I'm sure there are a few in San Diego.  The reason I've been using Trident hose is simply because that's what Defender sells.
7. I don't know.  I do frequent visual checks, and my family knows to report any water where there shouldn't be water, or any pumps running at unexpected times.
8. I believe there are some topics here on cleaning water heaters.  I haven't tried it.  I just replaced ours due to a slow leak in the tank.

-- 
Kevin and Elise Fox
SM404 Rascal
Charleston, SC


Re: Wifi extenders and the bonding system

Robert Giroux
 

Unfortunately, from Bitstorm website:

 

“As of March 2020, Bitstorm made the decision to cease production of its high power Wi-Fi systems. A number of factors caused this decision and included supply chain issues, manufacturing and staffing as a direct result of the Covid-19 virus. Sales of remaining inventory will continue for as long as available. Customers will continue to receive support for any issues on a best effort basis.”

 

There are however many companies “marketing” this type of WiFi bridge device. They all probably start out in one or two Chinese factories and receive a few differentiating components and/or specs, then branding and packaging. Ubiquity even has a titanium bodied one!

 

 

Regards,

Robert Giroux

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arno Luijten
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2020 7:43 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Wifi extenders and the bonding system

 

Scott,

my point was not the radiation pattern of your own antenna per se, the access point has a radiation pattern as well. It takes two to tango in this case as the communication is bi-directional, even if you are just downloading. 

What kind of connection is there between the antenna and the rest of the system? Myself I’m using a device called “Badboy” and that has the whole WiFi system build into the base of the antenna. There is only Ethernet cable coming from it connected to a POE adapter and subsequently to a Draytek 4G router. This chooses which connection to use (4G/Badboy) depending on available bandwidth.

The Badboy is isolated from everything apart from the POE injector and the Router.

Cheers,

Arno


Re: Sand Blasting

Patrick McAneny
 

James, There was one area ,about 8 sq. inches where there must have been a void where the first or last layer of fiberglass was partially removed ,the manager said that sand blasting would have opened it up as well. It will be a simple fix and I will be doing about three or four coats of barrier coat . There is no other area where all the paint was removed ,so no damage to the gel coat,after a light sanding the gel coat is as smooth as can be. The yard did not consult with me on power washing as opposed to sandblasting ,which concerned me ,but I am glad they went with it. 
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: James Alton via groups.io <lokiyawl2@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Aug 17, 2020 7:56 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sand Blasting

Pat,

   This sounds like an interesting option to me and apparently there was no damage done to your gel coat.   I like the fact that you avoided using harsh chemicals.  You also checked your boats bottom for loose putty and voids in this process whether you realize it, since 5000 PSI can take anything off that is not well attached and can open up voids near the surface!  I had the bottom of my boat checked with an ultrasound during the initial surgery looking for voids, delaminations etc. and non were found.  That would not be the case on many non Amel hulls.  It seems that Amel does a very good job with their laminations in getting out all of the air, especially at the critical gel coat interface.  Really glad that this worked out for you.

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Aug 17, 2020, at 5:02 PM, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:

A few weeks ago I mentioned that I intended to have by boat sandblasted , I paid for it ,but they did something different,maybe better. I went to see what progress had been made on repairs . The bottom paint ,several layers was mostly gone ,with maybe a half thin coat still attached to the hull. I was confused ,since I expected it to be blasted down to the gel coat . What they did was to use a 5000 psi powerwasher with a rotating turbo head which blasted most of the paint off . I missed that part ,but while I was there a workman used a 7" orbital sander with 60 grit to take it the rest of the way down to the gel coat. He did a 20 sq. ft. area in about 15 minutes . So it should take about 9 hrs of sanding. What he did looks perfect and no concerns for damage to the gel coat. 
Just thought I would put this out there, as another option to sand or soda blasting
Pat
SM Shenanigans