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Re: SM2 Roller Reefer Guide Rods
So... I returned to the boat to take a closer look at the roller furling swivel, which is down at deck level since the sail is not hoisted. The swivel turns freely, with no sign of jamming. And the ballooner has yet to be hoisted, so that’s not it. I’m going to fabricate a couple of temporary guide rods (until I can get originals from Amel) and hoist the sail with those. I still do not feel I have the answer to the bent rods. I’m just going to watch them more closely.
-- Dave Kurtz SM2 #380 S/V Celtic Cross Detroit, Michigan
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Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling
Thank you Bill, I have been dealing with Caraibe Marine and they are very helpful. I didn’t know that they would do gas pressure settings on fridges. I will see them this week.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Best Barry
On Aug 30, 2020, at 09:24, Barry Connor via groups.io <connor_barry@...> wrote:
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Re: SM2 Roller Reefer Guide Rods
Happened to us early on as we didn't get the idea that the ballooner/spinnaker halyard has to remain quite tight and well out of the way (aft) of the spinning foil. A halyard wrap into the genoa will cause the swivel and horns to rotate until you stop furling or the halyard parts. In my case it was caused by an effort to tack the gennaker. I figured since the gennaker had to be doused and cleared to the other side we might as well use the genoa for a while to keep speed. During the transition, when I was in fact holding on to the spinnaker halyard, it got wrapped up in the genoa as it was being furled and quite literally pulled me up and onto my feet. Even stopping the furling immediately the horns we now pretzels. Lesson learned; that spinnaker halyard must be kept tight and aft of the furler so it doesn't get caught in a wrap-up at the top. sav@... has them in stock as far as I know, and if you choose to have a couple made up at a machine shop, it'll likely be just about the same price as ordering them. Almost lastly ... if the 'horns' are installed incorrectly, or if the swivel has lost its bearings or the "Crayon" inside, it can lead to scoring on the foil. It could also lead to the horns catching onto one of the sail tracks and spinning with the foil. Lastly, I douse that genoa and inspect and lube that swivel fairly often; two or three times a year. :) Hope that helps a little.
Gary W.
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Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling
I recommend that you contact the following in e Marin: Contact: Patrice FOUGEROUSE CARAIBE REFRIGERATION Port du Marin, Bassin N°1 Bl Allegre 97290 LE MARIN MARTINIQUE FWI patrice@... OR contact@... +596 (0) 696 82 24 04
On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 8:24 AM Barry Connor via groups.io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: Electric shock from the windlass
Hi Paolo,
Now that you confirm there's no 240v involved, it is dollars to donuts just some corrosion in the windlass feed wires inside its housing. And you're right, the windlass, rails and rigging are not in the anti-galvanic ("grounding") system. The 24v short is taking a different path to the rails, like down your chain or whatever. Regardless, this is so likely such a basic and simple fix that you really should do it yourself, if for no other reason than to gain some self-sufficiency for your trans Atlantic crossing ;-) Don't even bother checking with your multimeter - just open the windlass cover and clean up the connections! If you've still got the problem, then spend the money for the electrician, or, better yet, keep looking yourself. Plus, as Ken points out, it's good to do this as preventive maintenance. Good luck with it, Craig, SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: DC DC starter battery charger on Amel 55 fuse sizes
Joerg Esdorn
The electrical plans confirm this is a 15A fuse. I would contact Stephane at Pochon and ask him your question. Pochon designs all the electrical systems for Amel. Stephane is the client relations guy for all Amel owners. stephane@...
Good Luck! Joerg Esdorn A55 #53 Kincsem Vigo, Spain
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Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling
Thank you Paul. I will ask Alban at Amel Le Marin to recommend someone.
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Best Barry
On Aug 29, 2020, at 04:47, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:
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Re: DC DC starter battery charger on Amel 55 fuse sizes
Billy Newport
I thought about that but then why use a 25A charger, the whole thing would be pointless. The charger puts out 25A, the wiring supports 15A, use a 15A fuse and pop...
The unknown on my side is how long is that wire. I'll try trace it better today.
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Re: Electric shock from the windlass
Ken Powers SV Aquarius
Since there is no connection to 240VAC in the windless circuit, I fail to see how toggling the windless switch could result in a 240VAC short? It is much more likely to be a 24VDC issue, which is not too dangerous. Measure the voltage with a volt meter, not a crew member! Unless you have an undesirable crew member, this could be your lucky day.
If there is a potential(or Voltage) a volt meter should see it. Stick the negative on you and put the positive on the what ever was shocking you. You should see movement in the voltage without having to touch the rail and shock yourself. I believe Craig is correct. Remove the back cap off the windless and make sure everything is clean and tidy! Might want to use some Corrosion X on the motor when you open it up. I do this to keep corrosion down on the motor housing, just paint the entire motor with CorrosionX. Best, Ken Aquarius SM262
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Re: Electric shock from the windlass
PAOLO CUNEO
hi Craig, Bill, Nick,
I understand from your words that you all seriously care about my safety in case we are talking about 220V AC, and I sincerely appreciate your attention. But no, it never happened to me with the shore power, but only operating the windlass on 24V in some bay for the night. Occasionally I have also had the generator switched on during the anchoring maneuvers, but in the great majority of cases the generator was switched off, so I would feel like excluding 220V. I add that the sensation was more like a burn than the classic shock that can happen to you at home. I hadn't thought about disconnecting the small inverter that permanently powers the chart table area but I certainly will. I add a question: I seem to have read somewhere in this forum that, at least on SMs, the rigging and the guardrail (and perhaps also the windlass) are not included in the Amel general bonding system, and I wonder how this can direct my research (or rather , give the correct information to the electrician who I will certainly call). Bests to you all and thanks for your help Paolo - SM 454 Whisper, Genoa Inviato da iPad
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Re: SM2 Roller Reefer Guide Rods
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi all. A jammed swivel can cause the pretzles. Another method of forming them is to put yourcspar
On 30 August 2020 at 13:35 "Craig Briggs via groups.io" <sangaris@...> wrote:
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Re: DC DC starter battery charger on Amel 55 fuse sizes
Clive Chapman
I know nothing about Amel specific electrics, but a fuse can also protect the wiring. Is it possible the cabling is only rated at 15A? The danger with uprating the fuse is you could create a fire risk because the wiring now effectively becomes the fuse
(sorry if this is teaching you what you already know).
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DC DC starter battery charger on Amel 55 fuse sizes
Billy Newport
My generator wouldn't start last weekend so on poking around, the starter was weak. I could start the engine and then I could start the generator. On checking why the starter was weak, the DC-DC charger output side (#3 under the nav seat) was blown. It's a 15A fuse. So, no charger, dead battery, gen won't start. Ok.
Looking at the Victron manuals for an Orion 24/12/25 DC DC charger. It has a normal bulk output current of 25A with a peak output of 35A. Why have Amel installed a 15A fuse, it's even labeled 15A. So, I left the boat this week and when I came back today, the 15A fuse I replaced is blown again. I discussed with BillR and for now, I've replaced both fuses with a 20A and a 40A (don't have a 35A). Now, given what I can figure out, I don't know how this ever worked but clearly the boat is 4 years old and has 20k nm on it. I've sent an email to Denis, the old owner asking what gives. Do the alternators on the gen OR engine charge the starter battery? Is it just the DC-DC charging it? The cables are 10 gauge wire. I can't see how long they are. 24V @ 20A is no problem for 10 awg. 12V at 25A is good at 10 feet long with 1% V drop. Thanks Billy Amel 55#56
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Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54
We had a complete manifold made out of stainless steel by EMEK Marine in Turkey for our SM.
Beautifully made, I think this is the answer. Not sure if SM and 54 manifolds are the same, if not it surely wouldn't be difficult to modify the design. Cheers Alan Elyse SM437 stuck in Opua NZ
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Re: SM2 Roller Reefer Guide Rods
Hi Dave,
While it could be a jammed swivel, it is absolutely the classic pretzel you get by furling the genoa without removing the balooner halyard and its releasing "mouse" from the furling extrusion. I did it a few times early on when I would lower the balooner, forget all about the halyard and mouse still being in place while I bagged the sail. Then I'd furl in the Genoa. Oops, another pretzel! It's amazing how much torque the furler has. As I recall, I think I stopped doing that after three pretzels. And I tried to change procedures to remove the halyard/mouse immediately, although that's hard if you're doing it single handed. By the way, that will also really stress the rivets holding the furling extrusion onto the furler and there have been many posts here about those holes becoming enlarged and/or rivets breaking. So, don't forget your mouse. Cheers, Craig, - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54
Jamie Wendell
I do not think that the manifold corrosion is directly related to the bonding system. Copper will eventually fail in a salt-water environment, which is what I experienced.
You can verify the problems with copper by inspecting some of the original wiring in the boat, which was not tinned unfortunately. The copper strands turn black. In the case of the manifold, you have trapped raw water inside and you cannot see the gradual corrosion taking place. Jamie Phantom, A54 #44
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Re: Electric shock from the windlass
Hi Paulo,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
You really need to make sure this is not a 240v AC problem as that is dangerous. Turn off the inverter Disconnect the shore power Do not run the generator Then see if you still have the problem. If you do then it is serious and potentially life threatening. Get an electrician immediately. If not then it is on the 24v side; not dangerous to life and limb but is likely to be damaging to the sea water exposed fittings, like propeller, skin fittings etc. Then it is a question of figuring it out. If you use a professional it could be expensive as it may take a long time. It took me a week to find a “Masse leek” ! Maybe 20 hours of testing testing thinking testing..... so I suggest you either open your wallet or your mind. Nick Aboard Ameliai in Leros enjoying the last of summer for me. AML 54-019
On 29 Aug 2020, at 00:09, PAOLO CUNEO <pc43ge@gmail.com> wrote:
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Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54
Sv Garulfo
Thanks for the heads up about the manifold. Does premature corrosion of the copper manifold indicate a possible disconnection from the bonding system and/or an electrical leak? Thanks Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Raiatea, French Polynesia
Hi Michael,
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Re: SM2 Roller Reefer Guide Rods
It was caused by the swivel jamming. Now you'll need to determine why it jammed. Best, CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School +1 832-380-4970 | brouse@... 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html
As I restepped my mast, I found that not one, but both of the guide rods on the top of the roller furler were bent like pretzels. I am somewhat mystified as to what would create that amount of force at the top of the genoa. I cannot recall any mishaps where the unfurling and furling of the genoa went poorly or I had difficulty. Has anyone else experienced this or have an idea as to what might have caused this? Obviously wish to avoid this in the future!
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Re: New rub rail inserts
Yes, I have seen it. In each case it was traced back to blasting with sand, media and/or very high high water pressure. Yard workers love to crank the pressure up high enough to remove "barnacle glue," rather than scrape. I do not know that this is what you have. Best, CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School +1 832-380-4970 | brouse@... 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html
On Sat, Aug 29, 2020, 11:11 AM Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...> wrote: I would love to get new rub rails inserts, but stuck in Thailand, and will not get close to the Caribbean for WHO knows when. Currently re-gelcoating the Rub Rail, and Gel Coat for the red boot stripe. Also sanded Aquarius' bottom down to gel coat. And, 100 blisters appeared. I was so scared when I saw all the little bumps, and the person that sanded Aquarius down showed me that it was osmosis by opening one up with a knife. YUP, osmosis, you can smell it..... But, how could this be, I have never heard of an Amel with Osmosis. So, the painters thought that it was going to be a big job, but in the end the osmosis didn't penetrate past the first layer. So, no big deal! Fixed all 100 spots in about 4 hours of work. YES..
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