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Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.
There are two versions of the elbow sensor on Onan generators on Super Maramus. Some Onan models have part 309-0295-01 which is Normally Closed. Other models have part 309-0295 is Normally Open. Which sensor you have depends on your Onan Model and Serial. Check the parts manual for your model to determine how to test this sensor. Or call your Cummins/Onan dealer with your model and serial number. Remember there are a number of sensors in the shutdown system, and these switches will fail. I replaced the exhaust manifold temperature switch and the water-flow switch because of an accumulation of debris inside. I also had one situation with a loose connection on a switch. Did you use your laser temperature gun to measure temperature? The normal temperature of the exhaust elbow is about 50C and the normal temperature of the coolant is about 80C. Were these in range? How many hours since the last impeller change? Should be less than 300hrs or 12 months. The impeller blades can look OK, but the impeller can be defective.
On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 4:32 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
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Re: Super Maramu Repower
We have recently been through the process. Couldn't justify the dollars to make the Volvo tmd new again. Oil leak. Turbo rebuild.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
We have installed a new beta 60. Plenty of power. Lots of torque. Big electrodyne alternator. Remote filters for easy access.
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Re: Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.
eric freedman
Hi Mike, I believe if the exhaust temperature at the sensor exceeds 230 degrees F. the genset shuts down. I will do an experiment one day and disconnect one wire while the genset is running and see what happens. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 10:41 PM To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Onan Generator exhaust temperature switch - great price.
Thanks Eric. Sent you a message with order details.
When these fail, go bad, or break, how do you know? Does it prevent the genset from starting/running? Or does it allow the genset to overheat if there are issues with the cooling system (broken impeller for example) and potentially damage things?
Cheers, Mike Longcor SV Trilogy SM23 Opua, NZ
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Re: Anchor chain counter
Scott SV Tengah
We just had this problem. It was a rusted magnet.
It's very easy to open up the windlass and see the magnet on the gypsy. On A54 #69, we have two windlasses, so I just took the gypsy from the port windlass and put it on starboard. There's no counter on port anyways and we barely use it, so the gypsy looked nearly new. By doing that, you could probably get quite a few more years of life and it will isolate whether the problem is the magnet or the sensor. If you look at the AutoAnchor manual, it shows you how to get into diagnostic mode to determine whether the sensors are getting power. That may help you figure out what's wrong. I suppose there could be wiring issues, but for us, it was easily remedied by swapping gypsies and hence, magnets. Good time to grease up the windlass, too. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Anchor chain counter
The magnet gets rusty. You may test the system , take off the gipsy and hold/turn a magnet above the reed relay and observe the counter Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162
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Re: Main furling motor and gear on 54
Nick, You had me fooled. Your original post stated Amel 55, and the 55 furling assembly does not have a worm! I believe that your Amel 54 #19 has the earlier version of the mainsail furling motor and gearbox, similar to the last SMs. I am having difficulty understanding why you would try to remove the worm gear before disassembling the gearbox and removing the spur gear. The spur gear will hold the worm gear in place. Maybe I am not understanding? Anyway, I will post some things here that may or may not help. Here is a disassembled gearbox similar to yours. You can see the worm gear and understand how the spur holds it in place. Also maybe this helps:
On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 1:17 PM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: Bilge pump
Alexis LETELLIER
ok many thanks Arno
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Re: Main furling motor and gear on 54
Hi guys,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I am leaving it overnight soaking in diesel. I tried a puller earlier to push out the shaft but nada. Tomorrow I will apply heat and the puller. If that fails I guess it will need a press. I just wonder why it is not a nice snug fit, not as if it is a ball of rust. Maybe if when it finally yields it does not go back in with a gentle tap, I will have it machines down a thou.....so next timeI can pull it easy as kiss my hand. Nick Slightly fed up with a day of poor progress. Amelia Leros AML 54-019
On 1 Sep 2020, at 20:11, James Alton via groups.io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:
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Re: Super Maramu Repower
I believe the Beta 85 is the best engine to repower the SM or 54. There are lots of reasons...here are a few: Beta understands the isolated ground Beta 85 is Kubota powered Beta 85 has no computer and sensors Here is some contact information for those interested:
Email me privately at brouse@... if you are interested in a discount from Beta Bill
On Mon, Aug 31, 2020 at 5:31 PM Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:
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Updated Event: Zoom meeting - QSails owner/manager will present sails for Amels - Saturday, 12 September 2020
#cal-invite
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar <main@...>
Zoom meeting - QSails owner/manager will present sails for Amels When: An RSVP is requested. Click here to RSVP Description: Time will be 2000 UTC. QSails offers very fast shipments of sails for many Amel models. In fact, many Amel sails are actually shipped from pre-made stock at QSails. Zoom link for the meeting: Topic: AYOG Monthly Zoom Meeting: QSails Time: Sep 12, 2020 20:00 Greenwich Mean Time Join Zoom Meeting https://epfl.zoom.us/j/94687396754 Meeting ID: 946 8739 6754 Link for the Youtube stream: https://youtu.be/nQob9dJu3RE
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Re: Chesapeake Haul and Bottom Paint Recommendations
Hi Paul,
It may give you more choices in yards not to limit it to soda blasting as conventional sand blasting is fine on the keel, masking off adjacent fiberglass, Enjoy City Island - we sailed out of the Harlem YC for 20 years (I think they're still closed for Covid, though) and, Mark, Butch Ulmer made several sets of sails for us over the years, including the first set on our Santorin (well, Tommy Nye did those) - small world. Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Chesapeake Haul and Bottom Paint Recommendations
Paul,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
In the southern Chesapeake we have used Severn Yachting Center for most all of our repairs including haul outs. Not sure how many Amel’s besides ours they have worked on, but I will say they are very familiar with ours. The yard is located just off Mobjack Bay, off the York River, you can find them on Active Captain. Mark Garver S/V It’s Good SM #105 Gloucester, VA
On Sep 1, 2020, at 12:05 PM, Paul Stascavage via groups.io <pstas2003@...> wrote:
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Re: Main furling motor and gear on 54
James Alton
Nick,
Assuming that the worm gear and the shaft are both metal... I would try heating the component ( I assume this is the worm gear) with the hole to expand it while cooling the other part (the shaft) using ice or whatever you have. Some gentle tapping might be ok.
Best of luck,
James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54 I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.
It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced.
Problem;
Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out.
Does anyone have a better idea?
Nick
S/Y Amelia
Leros.
AML 55-019
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Re: Chesapeake Haul and Bottom Paint Recommendations
Mark McGovern
Paul, Saw your message and shot you an email.
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Re: Chesapeake Haul and Bottom Paint Recommendations
Bert Jabins is also a very good spot. They have handled quite a few Amels; Harmonie, Delos, and a few others. Aras Sharki #163 1989
On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 12:05 PM Paul Stascavage via groups.io <pstas2003=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Good day all, -- Aras Grinius
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Chesapeake Haul and Bottom Paint Recommendations
Paul Stascavage
Good day all,
We need to haul the RK in the near future for an insurance survey and while out we want to repaint the bottom. In case we need to re-epoxy the cast iron keel this time around, I want to haul in a yard which has soda blasting capabilities. We will be in the Chesapeake come October and thought this would be a good place to get this done. However, I am not familiar with any of the yards there. Mark McGovern recommended Herrington Harbour in one of his earlier postings, but thought I would ask the community for some additional recommendations. This will be our third time out of the water and the first in the US. It is always stressful, but a bit easier if you have confidence in the yard and the staff that will be handling your home. Mark, if you should see this post, please email me paul dot stascavage at icloud dot com as I have a few questions if you don’t mind. Thanks in advance for your replies. All the best, Paul Stascavage SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn Currently Exploring City Island, NY www.RitaKathryn.com
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Re: Anchor chain counter
Having had an intermittently working chain counter for the past two years (it could not record properly the chain going down, but was OK on the chain going up), I share my two cents which worked in my case: I dismounted and opened the unit in the cockpit and sprayed it with « WD40 contact ». It worked like a charm since then. The same recipe worked on our Hydra 2000, which was acting and stopped working at times; I spread the contacts and all the electronic boards and all went back to 100%. Again, sure it doesn’t apply in all cases, but it worked in ours!
Guillaume Carpathia III, SM2K #293
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Re: Main furling motor and gear on 54
You need a Puller it's much safer
but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge
-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54 I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.
It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced.
Problem;
Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out.
Does anyone have a better idea?
Nick
S/Y Amelia
Leros.
AML 55-019
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Main furling motor and gear on 54
I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.
It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced. Problem; Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out. Does anyone have a better idea? Nick S/Y Amelia Leros. AML 55-019
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Re: Bilge pump
Alexis,
I'm not sure how the routing is for the SM but in the 54 the drain pipe for the primary pump goes in a curve up and then down to the central drain-hose that also connects the manual bilgepump, the drain for the fridges and the brine output of the watermaker. So I connected the drain of the second pump AFTER the curve to this drain hose using a T-piece. I've tested it and it works fine. I can even run both pumps together to evacuate the water at super-speed. The second bilgepump has a double one-way valve in the output so no water goes back via either pump. Bill Rouse made a page in his book about this if I'm not mistaken. Kind regards, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A44-121
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