Re: Chesapeake Haul and Bottom Paint Recommendations
Hi Paul,
It may give you more choices in yards not to limit it to soda blasting as conventional sand blasting is fine on the keel, masking off adjacent fiberglass, Enjoy City Island - we sailed out of the Harlem YC for 20 years (I think they're still closed for Covid, though) and, Mark, Butch Ulmer made several sets of sails for us over the years, including the first set on our Santorin (well, Tommy Nye did those) - small world. Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Chesapeake Haul and Bottom Paint Recommendations
Paul,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
In the southern Chesapeake we have used Severn Yachting Center for most all of our repairs including haul outs. Not sure how many Amel’s besides ours they have worked on, but I will say they are very familiar with ours. The yard is located just off Mobjack Bay, off the York River, you can find them on Active Captain. Mark Garver S/V It’s Good SM #105 Gloucester, VA
On Sep 1, 2020, at 12:05 PM, Paul Stascavage via groups.io <pstas2003@...> wrote:
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Re: Main furling motor and gear on 54
James Alton
Nick,
Assuming that the worm gear and the shaft are both metal... I would try heating the component ( I assume this is the worm gear) with the hole to expand it while cooling the other part (the shaft) using ice or whatever you have. Some gentle tapping might be ok.
Best of luck,
James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54 I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.
It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced.
Problem;
Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out.
Does anyone have a better idea?
Nick
S/Y Amelia
Leros.
AML 55-019
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Re: Chesapeake Haul and Bottom Paint Recommendations
Mark McGovern
Paul, Saw your message and shot you an email.
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Re: Chesapeake Haul and Bottom Paint Recommendations
Bert Jabins is also a very good spot. They have handled quite a few Amels; Harmonie, Delos, and a few others. Aras Sharki #163 1989
On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 12:05 PM Paul Stascavage via groups.io <pstas2003=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Good day all, -- Aras Grinius
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Chesapeake Haul and Bottom Paint Recommendations
Paul Stascavage
Good day all,
We need to haul the RK in the near future for an insurance survey and while out we want to repaint the bottom. In case we need to re-epoxy the cast iron keel this time around, I want to haul in a yard which has soda blasting capabilities. We will be in the Chesapeake come October and thought this would be a good place to get this done. However, I am not familiar with any of the yards there. Mark McGovern recommended Herrington Harbour in one of his earlier postings, but thought I would ask the community for some additional recommendations. This will be our third time out of the water and the first in the US. It is always stressful, but a bit easier if you have confidence in the yard and the staff that will be handling your home. Mark, if you should see this post, please email me paul dot stascavage at icloud dot com as I have a few questions if you don’t mind. Thanks in advance for your replies. All the best, Paul Stascavage SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn Currently Exploring City Island, NY www.RitaKathryn.com
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Re: Anchor chain counter
Having had an intermittently working chain counter for the past two years (it could not record properly the chain going down, but was OK on the chain going up), I share my two cents which worked in my case: I dismounted and opened the unit in the cockpit and sprayed it with « WD40 contact ». It worked like a charm since then. The same recipe worked on our Hydra 2000, which was acting and stopped working at times; I spread the contacts and all the electronic boards and all went back to 100%. Again, sure it doesn’t apply in all cases, but it worked in ours!
Guillaume Carpathia III, SM2K #293
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Re: Main furling motor and gear on 54
You need a Puller it's much safer
but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge
-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54 I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.
It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced.
Problem;
Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out.
Does anyone have a better idea?
Nick
S/Y Amelia
Leros.
AML 55-019
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Main furling motor and gear on 54
I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.
It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced. Problem; Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out. Does anyone have a better idea? Nick S/Y Amelia Leros. AML 55-019
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Re: Bilge pump
Alexis,
I'm not sure how the routing is for the SM but in the 54 the drain pipe for the primary pump goes in a curve up and then down to the central drain-hose that also connects the manual bilgepump, the drain for the fridges and the brine output of the watermaker. So I connected the drain of the second pump AFTER the curve to this drain hose using a T-piece. I've tested it and it works fine. I can even run both pumps together to evacuate the water at super-speed. The second bilgepump has a double one-way valve in the output so no water goes back via either pump. Bill Rouse made a page in his book about this if I'm not mistaken. Kind regards, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A44-121
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Re: Anchor chain counter
Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Hi Oliver,
Thanks for that. Any idea where I can get one? I’ve contacted a couple of dealers but no reply so far.
The other thing is that I don’t actually know what the problem is other than that it stopped working. I just assume the sensor because, like you say, it is the most exposed component. It also was intermittent for a while before stopping completely. Wolfgang from Elise suggested it might be the magnet so I probably should get one of those too.
Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
Sent: 01 September 2020 07:17 To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Anchor chain counter
Hi Paul, It is a simple reed contact, example Meeder. Costs like 99 cents. Better order some spare, as the windlass is quite exposed to saltwater. When connected to the wire, dip it in sikkaflex or epoxy.
Oliver from Vela Nautica A54#39 Martinique
On Mon, Aug 31, 2020, 05:19 Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:
-- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: Bilge pump
Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Yes that’s right, close the seacock for a while with the fridge running, so it fills the manifold. Careful not to keep it closed too long though.
Paul Dowd Managing Director UK: +44 (0)7710 466619 skype: pauldowd
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From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Alexis LETELLIER
Sent: 01 September 2020 09:02 To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bilge pump
Thx Paul. this said, it sounds like a different issue as my pump was working well for many days and suddenly stopped. But maybe your procedure would solve it the same way. -- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: Anchor chain counter
Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Thanks, I never thought about that. But how can a magnet “break”?
Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Wolfgang Weber via groups.io
Sent: 31 August 2020 21:14 To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Anchor chain counter
Mostly you need a new magnet in the gipsy to count the length on the counter Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54 /162
-- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: Anchor chain counter
Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
No worries, I’m on the right track with this now. Thanks all the same.
Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Alan Leslie
Sent: 01 September 2020 00:21 To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Anchor chain counter
Ah....54...no sorry -- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: Bilge pump
Alexis LETELLIER
Indeed Arno, this flap is not in a proper shape anymore, and is likely to create an air leak.
About your second pump, you connected the out hose to the primary one with something like a T junction? No risk to go down back to the bildge through the primary out hose/pump? thx
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Re: Bilge pump
Alexis LETELLIER
Thanks a lot Danny, interesting way to solve it, will keep that in mind. I just remember the hose was really hard to move and manipulate, not very flexible.
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Re: Bilge pump
Alexis LETELLIER
Thx Paul. this said, it sounds like a different issue as my pump was working well for many days and suddenly stopped. But maybe your procedure would solve it the same way.
What do you mean filling from the fridge? You close the seacock from the outside? cheers
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Re: Anchor chain counter
Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
Hi Paul, It is a simple reed contact, example Meeder. Costs like 99 cents. Better order some spare, as the windlass is quite exposed to saltwater. When connected to the wire, dip it in sikkaflex or epoxy. Oliver from Vela Nautica A54#39 Martinique
On Mon, Aug 31, 2020, 05:19 Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:
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Re: SM2 Roller Reefer Guide Rods
Hi Dave, True confession, I have twice furled the headsail with the ballooner halyard in place. (I could say I was distracted by difficult “emergency” conditions, but that does not substitute for good seamanship.) Severed the halyard (that furling motor is powerful) AND bent over the guide rods. First time, utilizing some heat, simply bent them back straight. Second time, allowing for metal fatigue, decided to replace them. Picked up two 0.3125”x11” ss rods from OnlineMetals in CT for $2 ea ($7 shipping). Then threaded the end and used a pair of nuts and washers to secure to the swivel. Slipped some tubing over the exposed rod to soften the contact with the mast. Still works 4 years later. Mike Aletes SM#240 Rock Hall, MD
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of David Kurtz via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2020 5:42 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] SM2 Roller Reefer Guide Rods
So... I returned to the boat to take a closer look at the roller furling swivel, which is down at deck level since the sail is not hoisted. The swivel turns freely, with no sign of jamming. And the ballooner has yet to be hoisted, so that’s not it. I’m going to fabricate a couple of temporary guide rods (until I can get originals from Amel) and hoist the sail with those. I still do not feel I have the answer to the bent rods. I’m just going to watch them more closely. Detroit, Michigan
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Re: Anchor chain counter
Thomas Peacock
Yes, the 54 and SM are different in terms of chain counters. I’m pretty sure the SM “button” on the windlass is not magnetic, the proximity sensor only requires a metal counter.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
-- Tom Peacock SM 240 Aletes Chesapeake Bay
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