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Re: Dessalator Watermakers & Filmtec Membranes
Matt Salatino
Thanks Bill, After I asked, I figured I’d man-up and search for myself. I found the exact page you posted. I guess it’s safe to run a bit higher pressure. The WM will shut off if the pressure goes too high I believe...... Well this means that the float in the flow meter will disappear when the pressure is higher in the green zone (it does).
On Sep 9, 2020, at 9:23 PM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Mat,
Not according to Dessalator who states that the green bar on their high-pressure gauge is set for between 60 - 65 BAR. And according to Filmtec the Maximum operating pressure is 69 BAR
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Won’t running over 56-58 bar affect the membrane life? Off hand do you know the pressure range specs for the membrane? I run ours at the low end of the green, thinking I’m being safe. ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Sep 9, 2020, at 8:49 PM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: I learned something today with from a great 54 owner, from
Dessalator, and from reading the recent specifications sheet for Filmtec SW30
membranes.
·
The actual pressure for the Green Zone on a Dessalator high-pressure gauge is between 60 and 65 BAR
·
In normal seawater temperature and salinity and at
55 BAR the SW30 series of membranes will produce:
o
SW30 2521 = 47 liters/hour or 3*47 = 141
liters/hour
o
SW30 2540 = 109 liters/hour or 2*109 = 218
liters/hour
·
Obviously the production rate with pressure set
inside the Green Bar (60-65 BAR), will be greater than the above
·
Dialing back the pressure to change the product
water production to the original specs of the watermaker may cause the water
maker to shut down.
My statement of reducing the pressure to set the produced
water in the sight-glass at the original output for the D50/60, D100, and D160
is no longer valid for normal water temperature and salinity. And the D160 with
new membranes will produce over 200 liters/hour.
WARNING: Filmtec has increased the efficiency of these
membranes and depending on the age of your membrane(s) you may not see the
increased production.
I attach the Filmtec Spec Sheet that I refer to:
I hope this helps and clears up things.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Re: A54 hawsehole and chain guide
Matt Salatino
SS chain has a lower WLL and is a bit more brittle than galvanized high test (G40) ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Sep 9, 2020, at 8:47 PM, Sv Garulfo < svgarulfo@...> wrote:
I have witnessed a SS anchor chain snap before my own eyes and helped dealing with the emergency to save the boat (not an amel) from the lee shore in the swell of the marquesas and that kind of put me off SS chain. Admittedly the chain was oldish (10y) and the conditions tough.
Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Bora-Bora
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Re: Dessalator Watermakers & Filmtec Membranes
Matt Salatino
Specs online are max pressure 69 bar/1000 psi. ~~~⛵️~~~Matt A50#27
On Sep 9, 2020, at 8:49 PM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote:
SW30 2521
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Re: Dessalator Watermakers & Filmtec Membranes
Mat,
Not according to Dessalator who states that the green bar on their high-pressure gauge is set for between 60 - 65 BAR. And according to Filmtec the Maximum operating pressure is 69 BAR
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Won’t running over 56-58 bar affect the membrane life? Off hand do you know the pressure range specs for the membrane? I run ours at the low end of the green, thinking I’m being safe. ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Sep 9, 2020, at 8:49 PM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: I learned something today with from a great 54 owner, from
Dessalator, and from reading the recent specifications sheet for Filmtec SW30
membranes.
·
The actual pressure for the Green Zone on a Dessalator high-pressure gauge is between 60 and 65 BAR
·
In normal seawater temperature and salinity and at
55 BAR the SW30 series of membranes will produce:
o
SW30 2521 = 47 liters/hour or 3*47 = 141
liters/hour
o
SW30 2540 = 109 liters/hour or 2*109 = 218
liters/hour
·
Obviously the production rate with pressure set
inside the Green Bar (60-65 BAR), will be greater than the above
·
Dialing back the pressure to change the product
water production to the original specs of the watermaker may cause the water
maker to shut down.
My statement of reducing the pressure to set the produced
water in the sight-glass at the original output for the D50/60, D100, and D160
is no longer valid for normal water temperature and salinity. And the D160 with
new membranes will produce over 200 liters/hour.
WARNING: Filmtec has increased the efficiency of these
membranes and depending on the age of your membrane(s) you may not see the
increased production.
I attach the Filmtec Spec Sheet that I refer to:
I hope this helps and clears up things.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Re: Dessalator Watermakers & Filmtec Membranes
Matt Salatino
Won’t running over 56-58 bar affect the membrane life? Off hand do you know the pressure range specs for the membrane? I run ours at the low end of the green, thinking I’m being safe. ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Sep 9, 2020, at 8:49 PM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: I learned something today with from a great 54 owner, from
Dessalator, and from reading the recent specifications sheet for Filmtec SW30
membranes.
·
The actual pressure for the Green Zone on a Dessalator high-pressure gauge is between 60 and 65 BAR
·
In normal seawater temperature and salinity and at
55 BAR the SW30 series of membranes will produce:
o
SW30 2521 = 47 liters/hour or 3*47 = 141
liters/hour
o
SW30 2540 = 109 liters/hour or 2*109 = 218
liters/hour
·
Obviously the production rate with pressure set
inside the Green Bar (60-65 BAR), will be greater than the above
·
Dialing back the pressure to change the product
water production to the original specs of the watermaker may cause the water
maker to shut down.
My statement of reducing the pressure to set the produced
water in the sight-glass at the original output for the D50/60, D100, and D160
is no longer valid for normal water temperature and salinity. And the D160 with
new membranes will produce over 200 liters/hour.
WARNING: Filmtec has increased the efficiency of these
membranes and depending on the age of your membrane(s) you may not see the
increased production.
I attach the Filmtec Spec Sheet that I refer to:
I hope this helps and clears up things.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Dessalator Watermakers & Filmtec Membranes
I learned something today with from a great 54 owner, from
Dessalator, and from reading the recent specifications sheet for Filmtec SW30
membranes.
·
The actual pressure for the Green Zone on a Dessalator high-pressure gauge is between 60 and 65 BAR
·
In normal seawater temperature and salinity and at
55 BAR the SW30 series of membranes will produce:
o
SW30 2521 = 47 liters/hour or 3*47 = 141
liters/hour
o
SW30 2540 = 109 liters/hour or 2*109 = 218
liters/hour
·
Obviously the production rate with pressure set
inside the Green Bar (60-65 BAR), will be greater than the above
·
Dialing back the pressure to change the product
water production to the original specs of the watermaker may cause the water
maker to shut down.
My statement of reducing the pressure to set the produced
water in the sight-glass at the original output for the D50/60, D100, and D160
is no longer valid for normal water temperature and salinity. And the D160 with
new membranes will produce over 200 liters/hour.
WARNING: Filmtec has increased the efficiency of these
membranes and depending on the age of your membrane(s) you may not see the
increased production.
I attach the Filmtec Spec Sheet that I refer to:
I hope this helps and clears up things.
Bill
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Re: A54 hawsehole and chain guide
I have witnessed a SS anchor chain snap before my own eyes and helped dealing with the emergency to save the boat (not an amel) from the lee shore in the swell of the marquesas and that kind of put me off SS chain. Admittedly the chain was oldish (10y) and the conditions tough.
Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Bora-Bora
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Re: A54 hawsehole and chain guide
No, it’s only when we let out the full chain for whatever reason. So it’s very rare and only to minimise the chance of bungling it during business as usual. (That rarely happens anyway, even with galvanised chain).
Hope that clarifies the use case.
Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Bora-Bora
On Tue, 8 Sep 2020 at 03:48, Teun BAAS < teun@...> wrote:
Thomas,
Does this mean that every time you weigh anchor that somebody is guiding this device by hand in the right direction to evenly spread the anchor chain?
If so then I clearly have too many sails in the sail locker as it is completely full and was really a massive, massive head ache to get to the chain locker when
the new (galvanized) chain bungled up. I never had the bungling up issue with the OEM SS chain and since I pushed a bunch of the galvanized chain all the way to the back it hasn’t happened since. It is rare, even in the South Pacific, that I use the last 30
meters of a 100 meter chain so pushing those 30 plus meters all the way back in the chain locker I believe prevents the bundle of chain getting too high in the front and thus getting tangled/bungled.
But your device looks what I need but then I also need: A) easily access to the chain locker as well as B) a pair of hands during departure.
Best Regards Teun
A 54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020
06:46:43
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Sv Garulfo via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 15:07
To: Amel Yacht owners Group <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 hawsehole and chain guide
We recently end-to-ended our anchor chain and I found the pictured device useful to guide the chain nice and flat at the bottom of the chain locker.
It’s simply a piece of PVC pipe with a couple of small line to gutter the chain in various corners of the locker.
And when you don’t use it, it snaps happily on the hawsehole pipe for efficient storage.
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Re: A54 hawsehole and chain guide
Hello Scott,
In 2007, Amel used to buy SS chains from WASI GERMANY.
Olivier BEAUTÉ Envoyé de mon iPhone
Le 9 sept. 2020 à 19:57, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> a écrit :
As an aside, does anyone know who makes the Amel oem stainless chain? It has a 5 stamped on it, if that helps? -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: A54 hawsehole and chain guide
As an aside, does anyone know who makes the Amel oem stainless chain? It has a 5 stamped on it, if that helps? -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: A54 hawsehole and chain guide
Arno Luijten
Teun,
What you need is a big wallet and 100 meters of Cromox 10mm (made by Ketten Wålder, https://www.ketten-waelder.de/en/) 😂
Arno Luijten,
SV Luna,
A54-121
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Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
Arno Luijten
Actually the way it works at VP is that any significant change in the production of the eingine results in a new trailing character. Most Amels 54s have C because that is the one for wich production ran fairly long. The change form C to D was major as they changed the setup and position of all the ancillaries. Probably because they found out that putting the raw water pump on top of the alternator was not such a great idea. Also they changed the engine cover making it more silent. The base block itself has not changed that much. Fact is that Volvo is no longer using it in their cars since a few years making the production volume of this block much smaller.
The biggest change (as far as I can tell) between the "A" and "B" and the "C" version is the electronics got beefed up because of many failures with them.
The changes from "D" to "I" are fairly minor I believe.
I still think it's a good engine with very good characteristics. The fact you hear many complaints about it is because there a quite a few out there. It will treat you as you will treat it in most cases. It is still a fairly complex engine and you should treat it as such. Prompt preventive maintenance and clean diesel are the way to go.
Just my two cents...
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121
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Re: Sharki genoa top furling device blocked
Aras Grinius
Also if you know what bearings and caps I need to order.
Aras
Voker, Can you send some more pictures of the assembly? I'm curious to see how each piece fits together.
Aras Sharki #163 1988
On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 4:42 AM Volker < Puchta@...> wrote: Problem solved:-)
The ship yard was able to take the swivel apart and to grind the plastic bearings a bit, so that they are turning now smoothly.
The start of the problem was that the previous owner had used mineral oil grease and this caused the plastic bearings to swell. Time over time the swivel starts to turn stiffer and stiffer until it bends the horns and finally blocks.
Volker
Mickmoon, Sharki hull 176
 
--
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Re: Sharki genoa top furling device blocked
Aras Grinius
Voker, Can you send some more pictures of the assembly? I'm curious to see how each piece fits together.
Aras Sharki #163 1988
On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 4:42 AM Volker < Puchta@...> wrote: Problem solved:-)
The ship yard was able to take the swivel apart and to grind the plastic bearings a bit, so that they are turning now smoothly.
The start of the problem was that the previous owner had used mineral oil grease and this caused the plastic bearings to swell. Time over time the swivel starts to turn stiffer and stiffer until it bends the horns and finally blocks.
Volker
Mickmoon, Sharki hull 176
 
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Re: Sharki genoa top furling device blocked
Volker
Problem solved:-) The ship yard was able to take the swivel apart and to grind the plastic bearings a bit, so that they are turning now smoothly. The start of the problem was that the previous owner had used mineral oil grease and this caused the plastic bearings to swell. Time over time the swivel starts to turn stiffer and stiffer until it bends the horns and finally blocks. Volker Mickmoon, Sharki hull 176  
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Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
So glad to see some good reports on the VP. Our 110-IC is still running strong at 2200 hours and has been very reliable. It’s good to see that there is a good option out there, once needed. Thanks for your feedback to the forum to keep
the rest of us informed.
Happy Sailing;
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
AMEL 54 #099
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2020 10:23 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
Agree Teun.
The H is a different animal.
We’re at about 550 hours on our “H,” replaced early 2019.
Flawless so far (as it should be!). Quiet. Very smooth. More efficient. No smoke.
The C started with issues around 700 hours.
Possibly, finally, a reliable Volvo D3?
Porter
On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:32 AM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Yes Sir – makes completely sense and that’s the same engine Porter McROBERTS and I have.
The previous engine was D3-110i-C
Thanks for the help.
Best Regards Teun
A54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020 06:31:12
From what I can tell, and the documentation is spares on this, we have a D3-110i-H
Does that make any sense?
On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:02 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Matt,
I don’t think VP changes designation per year as the 2007 A54 have the “C” and for sure also the 2009 A54 had “C”.
Clearly between 2009 and 2017 they went from “C” to “H” and I am trying to determine if since the “H” VP has introduced another “upgrade”.
I have the “H” since June 2018 and have been extreme happy with my (costly) decision to replace the “C”. Now having about 450hrs, it has been a pleasure to operate;
I have had several times people standing in the cockpit suggesting me to start the engine while it was already running.
Best Regards Teun
A54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020 06:00:53
It’s a 2019 motor.
“i “?
On Sep 6, 2020, at 6:01 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Hi Matt,
The VOLVO PENTA D3 you have is that generation “H” with 110HP?
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT A54 #128
In Storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA
September 6, 2020 09:01:27
USA cell: +1 832 477 8842
AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909
You can follow AMELIT via this link:
https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT
Our new Volvo Penta D-3 has 4.48 bar at 1800 rpm. You might be OK.
Hi Paul, Ralph, Mohammad and Arno,
thank you for your answers and your experience.
We connected an external gauge and the pressure is with cold engine at 2bar at 700rpm (idle) and 4bar at 1500rpm.
After 15min. with normal oil temperature (75degree) the oil pressure drops to 1.3bar when idling.
The Volvo expert thinks, that this is not enough.
Actually the oil pressure sensor should not trigger before the oil pressure drops down to 0.7bar. That´s why I think the old sensor is too sensitive…
First I will try it with a new sensor… unfortunately it needs time to get it, and maybe someone of you have some experience with the oil-pressure with a warm engine…
Am 03.09.2020 um 11:13 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:
I just had the same problem. Connecting an external gauge the pressure is normal, so I’m getting a new sensor. Note also that you cannot use a normal Volvo sensor, you must get the specially modified one that
takes the bonding connection from Gwen Marine Service in France - €78.
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
since yesterday I have an oil pressure problem on my AMEL 54#96.
When I go from normal speed to idle, the oil alarm starts.
Of course, this doesn´t happen in the port but between the islands in Croatia.
My German Volvo expert suspects that the oil is too thin.
Diesel has probably gotten into the oil.
That´s why I changed the oil. More than 7 liters of very thin oil came out.
Then the engine ran again without an oil pressure alarm.
But today, when I switched back to idle, the alarm went on again.
I appreciate any advice or experiences.
Currently Croatia close to Dubrovnik
You need a Puller it's much safer
but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge
-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54
I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.
It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced.
Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out.
Does anyone have a better idea?
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
Agree Teun. The H is a different animal. We’re at about 550 hours on our “H,” replaced early 2019. Flawless so far (as it should be!). Quiet. Very smooth. More efficient. No smoke. The C started with issues around 700 hours. Possibly, finally, a reliable Volvo D3?
Porter Porter McRoberts S/V IBIS A54-152 WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206Www.fouribis.net
On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:32 AM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Yes Sir – makes completely sense and that’s the same engine Porter McROBERTS and I have.
The previous engine was D3-110i-C
Thanks for the help.
Best Regards Teun
A54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020
06:31:12
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2020 06:19
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
From what I can tell, and the documentation is spares on this, we have a D3-110i-H
Does that make any sense?
On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:02 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Matt,
I don’t think VP changes designation per year as the 2007 A54 have the “C” and for sure also the 2009 A54 had “C”.
Clearly between 2009 and 2017 they went from “C” to “H” and I am trying to determine if since the “H” VP has introduced another “upgrade”.
I have the “H” since June 2018 and have been extreme happy with my (costly) decision to replace the “C”. Now having about 450hrs, it has been a pleasure to operate;
I have had several times people standing in the cockpit suggesting me to start the engine while it was already running.
Best Regards Teun
A54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020 06:00:53
It’s a 2019 motor.
“i “?
On Sep 6, 2020, at 6:01 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Hi Matt,
The VOLVO PENTA D3 you have is that generation “H” with 110HP?
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT A54 #128
In Storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA
September 6, 2020 09:01:27
USA cell: +1 832 477 8842
AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909
You can follow AMELIT via this link:
https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT
Our new Volvo Penta D-3 has 4.48 bar at 1800 rpm. You might be OK.
Hi Paul, Ralph, Mohammad and Arno,
thank you for your answers and your experience.
We connected an external gauge and the pressure is with cold engine at 2bar at 700rpm (idle) and 4bar at 1500rpm.
After 15min. with normal oil temperature (75degree) the oil pressure drops to 1.3bar when idling.
The Volvo expert thinks, that this is not enough.
Actually the oil pressure sensor should not trigger before the oil pressure drops down to 0.7bar. That´s why I think the old sensor is too sensitive…
First I will try it with a new sensor… unfortunately it needs time to get it, and maybe someone of you have some experience with the oil-pressure with a warm engine…
Am 03.09.2020 um 11:13 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:
I just had the same problem. Connecting an external gauge the pressure is normal, so I’m getting a new sensor. Note also that you cannot use a normal Volvo sensor, you must get the specially modified one that
takes the bonding connection from Gwen Marine Service in France - €78.
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
since yesterday I have an oil pressure problem on my AMEL 54#96.
When I go from normal speed to idle, the oil alarm starts.
Of course, this doesn´t happen in the port but between the islands in Croatia.
My German Volvo expert suspects that the oil is too thin.
Diesel has probably gotten into the oil.
That´s why I changed the oil. More than 7 liters of very thin oil came out.
Then the engine ran again without an oil pressure alarm.
But today, when I switched back to idle, the alarm went on again.
I appreciate any advice or experiences.
Currently Croatia close to Dubrovnik
You need a Puller it's much safer
but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge
-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54
I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.
It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced.
Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out.
Does anyone have a better idea?
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
|
|
|
Re: A54 hawsehole and chain guide
Teun BAAS
Thomas,
Does this mean that every time you weigh anchor that somebody is guiding this device by hand in the right direction to evenly spread the anchor chain?
If so then I clearly have too many sails in the sail locker as it is completely full and was really a massive, massive head ache to get to the chain locker when
the new (galvanized) chain bungled up. I never had the bungling up issue with the OEM SS chain and since I pushed a bunch of the galvanized chain all the way to the back it hasn’t happened since. It is rare, even in the South Pacific, that I use the last 30
meters of a 100 meter chain so pushing those 30 plus meters all the way back in the chain locker I believe prevents the bundle of chain getting too high in the front and thus getting tangled/bungled.
But your device looks what I need but then I also need: A) easily access to the chain locker as well as B) a pair of hands during departure.
Best Regards Teun
A 54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020
06:46:43
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Sv Garulfo via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 15:07
To: Amel Yacht owners Group <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 hawsehole and chain guide
We recently end-to-ended our anchor chain and I found the pictured device useful to guide the chain nice and flat at the bottom of the chain locker.
It’s simply a piece of PVC pipe with a couple of small line to gutter the chain in various corners of the locker.
And when you don’t use it, it snaps happily on the hawsehole pipe for efficient storage.
|
|
|
Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
Teun BAAS
Yes Sir – makes completely sense and that’s the same engine Porter McROBERTS and I have.
The previous engine was D3-110i-C
Thanks for the help.
Best Regards Teun
A54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020
06:31:12
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2020 06:19
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
From what I can tell, and the documentation is spares on this, we have a D3-110i-H
Does that make any sense?
On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:02 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Matt,
I don’t think VP changes designation per year as the 2007 A54 have the “C” and for sure also the 2009 A54 had “C”.
Clearly between 2009 and 2017 they went from “C” to “H” and I am trying to determine if since the “H” VP has introduced another “upgrade”.
I have the “H” since June 2018 and have been extreme happy with my (costly) decision to replace the “C”. Now having about 450hrs, it has been a pleasure to operate;
I have had several times people standing in the cockpit suggesting me to start the engine while it was already running.
Best Regards Teun
A54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020 06:00:53
It’s a 2019 motor.
“i “?
On Sep 6, 2020, at 6:01 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Hi Matt,
The VOLVO PENTA D3 you have is that generation “H” with 110HP?
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT A54 #128
In Storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA
September 6, 2020 09:01:27
USA cell: +1 832 477 8842
AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909
You can follow AMELIT via this link:
https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT
Our new Volvo Penta D-3 has 4.48 bar at 1800 rpm. You might be OK.
Hi Paul, Ralph, Mohammad and Arno,
thank you for your answers and your experience.
We connected an external gauge and the pressure is with cold engine at 2bar at 700rpm (idle) and 4bar at 1500rpm.
After 15min. with normal oil temperature (75degree) the oil pressure drops to 1.3bar when idling.
The Volvo expert thinks, that this is not enough.
Actually the oil pressure sensor should not trigger before the oil pressure drops down to 0.7bar. That´s why I think the old sensor is too sensitive…
First I will try it with a new sensor… unfortunately it needs time to get it, and maybe someone of you have some experience with the oil-pressure with a warm engine…
Am 03.09.2020 um 11:13 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:
I just had the same problem. Connecting an external gauge the pressure is normal, so I’m getting a new sensor. Note also that you cannot use a normal Volvo sensor, you must get the specially modified one that
takes the bonding connection from Gwen Marine Service in France - €78.
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
since yesterday I have an oil pressure problem on my AMEL 54#96.
When I go from normal speed to idle, the oil alarm starts.
Of course, this doesn´t happen in the port but between the islands in Croatia.
My German Volvo expert suspects that the oil is too thin.
Diesel has probably gotten into the oil.
That´s why I changed the oil. More than 7 liters of very thin oil came out.
Then the engine ran again without an oil pressure alarm.
But today, when I switched back to idle, the alarm went on again.
I appreciate any advice or experiences.
Currently Croatia close to Dubrovnik
You need a Puller it's much safer
but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge
-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54
I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.
It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced.
Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out.
Does anyone have a better idea?
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C
Matt Salatino
From what I can tell, and the documentation is spares on this, we have a D3-110i-H Does that make any sense? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:02 PM, Teun BAAS < teun@...> wrote:
Matt,
I don’t think VP changes designation per year as the 2007 A54 have the “C” and for sure also the 2009 A54 had “C”.
Clearly between 2009 and 2017 they went from “C” to “H” and I am trying to determine if since the “H” VP has introduced another “upgrade”.
I have the “H” since June 2018 and have been extreme happy with my (costly) decision to replace the “C”. Now having about 450hrs, it has been a pleasure to operate;
I have had several times people standing in the cockpit suggesting me to start the engine while it was already running.
Best Regards Teun
A54 2009 #128
September 8, 2020
06:00:53
It’s a 2019 motor.
“i “?
On Sep 6, 2020, at 6:01 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
Hi Matt,
The VOLVO PENTA D3 you have is that generation “H” with 110HP?
Best Regards Teun
SV AMELIT A54 #128
In Storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA
September 6, 2020 09:01:27
USA cell: +1 832 477 8842
AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909
You can follow AMELIT via this link:
https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT
Our new Volvo Penta D-3 has 4.48 bar at 1800 rpm. You might be OK.
Hi Paul, Ralph, Mohammad and Arno,
thank you for your answers and your experience.
We connected an external gauge and the pressure is with cold engine at 2bar at 700rpm (idle) and 4bar at 1500rpm.
After 15min. with normal oil temperature (75degree) the oil pressure drops to 1.3bar when idling.
The Volvo expert thinks, that this is not enough.
Actually the oil pressure sensor should not trigger before the oil pressure drops down to 0.7bar. That´s why I think the old sensor is too sensitive…
First I will try it with a new sensor… unfortunately it needs time to get it, and maybe someone of you have some experience with the oil-pressure with a warm engine…
Am 03.09.2020 um 11:13 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:
I just had the same problem. Connecting an external gauge the pressure is normal, so I’m getting a new sensor. Note also that you cannot use a normal Volvo sensor, you must get the specially modified one that
takes the bonding connection from Gwen Marine Service in France - €78.
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada
since yesterday I have an oil pressure problem on my AMEL 54#96.
When I go from normal speed to idle, the oil alarm starts.
Of course, this doesn´t happen in the port but between the islands in Croatia.
My German Volvo expert suspects that the oil is too thin.
Diesel has probably gotten into the oil.
That´s why I changed the oil. More than 7 liters of very thin oil came out.
Then the engine ran again without an oil pressure alarm.
But today, when I switched back to idle, the alarm went on again.
I appreciate any advice or experiences.
Currently Croatia close to Dubrovnik
You need a Puller it's much safer
but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge
-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54
I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive.
It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced.
Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out.
Does anyone have a better idea?
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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