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Solenoid question
smiles bernard
Hello all
I have a question that i am struggling with and wondered if the amel hive mind could shed some light. I recently disconnected all batteries and solar I then reconnected and seem to have lost control of my windlass and furler solenoids. The furler is the easiest to access the electrics on so I’ve been rummaging about with a multimeter The solenoid has power The Control switches in the cockpit have power The Cable from these cockpit switches to the solenoid control terminals is continuous. No inline fuses that I can see and in good shape yet the voltage at these solenoid terminals is <1 volt when the switches are activated. I have yet to try and feed 12v to the solenoid control terminals direct but can’t think how I’m getting the almost complete voltage drop. The windlass solenoid is in the same locker in the forepeak. I’ve tested it less but again it has power yet is not working. Bit flummoxed Any thoughts or suggestions most welcome Perhaps I caused a voltage surge reconnecting my batteries? But no fuses in the control lines that I can see. All the very best Miles Maramu 162 |
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Re: Mango fuel filter question
smiles bernard
Hi there
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Yes I also have one in my maramu + Perkins M65 Just a water filter & no cartridge to replace On our boat this then leads to a dual spin on primary filter unit and then finally onto the secondary Engine mounted filter I just drain it occasionally into a glass jar and see what’s lurking in the bowl. So far it’s always been clean btw. All the best Miles On 14 Sep 2020, at 20:00, James Alton via groups.io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:
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Re: Bow-thruster repair at anchor
Grant thank you!
I ordered from Maud at Amel, where I order most of the spare parts Paul |
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Re: Anchor sizing
Wolfgang Weber <webercardio@...>
If you use your anchor and chain in saltwater with 25 deg.Celcius I would recommend galvanised anchor chain, otherwise your chain will look nice but will have pinhole damages and will break with obvious outside good looking. Spare the money for stainless steal and buy some jewellery for your wife/friend, Wolfgang Weber(Germany) SY Elise Amel 54#162(Fort Lauderdale) |
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Re: Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000
Hi Mike,
When I bought the boat the previous owner told me that the generator needed to be preheated for at least 20 seconds. I do that every time and it starts every time. I hope this helps you. Hi Mike, When I bought the boat the previous owner told me that the generator needed to be preheated for at least 20 seconds. I do that every time and it starts every time. I hope this helps you. |
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Re: Mango fuel filter question
James Alton
Arlo,
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My apologies. After taking a closer look, I think that Craig is correct that what you have is a fuel water separator that does not have a filter inside. I was looking at the top portion of your photo which looks identical to the filter housing that I have on my boat but the bottom part of yours does look different than mine. I believe that this link shows what you have: https://www.asap-supplies.com/products/drive-force-cav-fuel-separator-45lph-alloy-bowl-302005 Best, James Alton
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Re: change standing rigging SM
There is a wealth of info on the Amel Blogs. Also Bill Rouse is a great resource. Aras Sharki #163 1988 On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 11:55 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote: Hi; -- Aras Grinius |
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Re: Mango fuel filter question
Hi Arlo,
That looks like a filter but it is actually a Perkins pre-filter water separator (no filter inside). It has two wires coming out the bottom from a "fuel sedimenter sensor" that activates your water-in-diesel alarm. For maintenance just pop it open and clean it out. Check the wire connections while you're at it. For fun you can put some water on the sensor and see if your alarm goes off. Cheers -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL |
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main sail furler gear box maramu 1986
It s an oil leak from the bottom of the gear
box. I found some informations how to fix it. But I can t take the gear box out of the mast... Help!!! Thank you all of you, Philippe |
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Re: Mango fuel filter question
James Alton
Arlo,
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This looks like the same CAV filter used on my 1987 Maramu. Here is a link showing the CAV filter for comparison to yours:https://www.parts4engines.com/perkins-4236-fuel-filter-assembly/ To change the filter you remove the rusty center bolt at the top of the housing and the lower components fall away. You will want a container and lots of paper towels under the assembly during the filter change since the bowl is probably full of fuel. On my boat, the fuel is gravity feed so very important to also turn off the shutoff valve at the tank! There are 3 rubber sealing rings to change that should come with the replacement filter. You need to be really careful to insure that the upper gasket is properly inserted and not rolled over etc. or you will have a leak. The NAPA #3166 fits my filter assembly. Best of luck, James Alton SV Sueno Maramu #220
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Re: Anchor Chain
James Alton
Nick,
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I would be looking at about $4,400 USD (I found a US supplier) for 300’ of the 8mm which is a little less than 2.5 times the cost of the Aqua7 grade 70 that we are using now. (We are using the grade 70 8mm because we can fit 100 meters without issues of knocking down a chain castle as the chain piles up in the locker. The grade 70 8mm is also supposed to be as strong as the 10mm G40 we replaced and puts less weight in the bow) As you point out the Cromox is amazingly strong for being stainless, maybe 7 percent weaker than the Aqua7 quite a surprise to me. So if the Cromox was good for 10 years and I replace my Aqua7 every 5 years instead of regalvanizing the cost difference would be about $688 for 10 years or an additional $69 per year if I have my math correct. A replacement every 5 years would be a $507 per year premium though I suspect that there would be some resell value in 5 year old Cromox chain that could help reduce the cost differential. My primary interest in the Cromox stems from the comments that seem to indicate that it runs more smoothly (reliably) through the Gypsy but I do not have any actual experience with stainless chain on a gypsy. I can tell you that once my Aqua7 developed some surface corrosion and roughness that it began to occasionally skip/slip on the brand new Gypsy supplied with the chain. At any rate the brand new G7 chain seemed to run smoother when it was new and smooth and I assume that the stainless chain would remain pretty smooth over the years. I view the anchor windlass as one of the most dangerous components of the boat so if it is possible to improve the safety of the operator for $69 per year that sounds worthwhile. Can anyone that has used the stainless and the galvanized chains please comment on whether they see a difference in how the chains run on their windlass? My primary concern about the Cromox is the potential for crevice corrosion that could cause a failure. I have been searching for evidence of failures on the Web and so far have not come across any but perhaps there are not a lot of people using stainless chain? I note that pretty much all of the anchor swivels used are now stainless. I understand that the German manufacturer for Cromox can inspect, treat, repair if needed. I think that they can also issue a new warranty for their Cromox after such an inspection though I have not looked into all of the details. I also note that Cromox chains are also sold for overhead lifting operations which could indicate the reliability must be pretty good to get this certification. I will stay with my galvanized steel for now but would like to learn more about the Cromox option, thanks for any input. Thanks, James Alton SV Sueno Maramu #220
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Re: Anchor sizing
Morning Bryce,
Thanks for the info; this is indeed cheaper while still in QLD. I see that BURLEIGH HEADS is 38 KM south of COOMERA – I can surely buy from them and pick up; especially since TBWY makes cars and little pick up trucks available for free to the boats staying in their marina/yard.
You just saved me AU$1,310 😊 When I ever make it back and you are around I buy you dinner.
Thanks.
Best Regards Teun A 54, 2009 #128 September 14, 2020 09:53:32
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Bryce Procter via groups.io
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 00:28 To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Anchor sizing
Hi Tuen,
Price for 100m Cromox Grade 60 10mm short link $8690 AUD ($6332 USD). This is from Bridco Qld Australia, I am also checking to see if it is available in Malaysia which is where my boat is currently moored. I have a container being shipped from here to Malaysia next month so freight from here won't be an issue if I need to buy here.
Cheers
Bryce SM 2K #467 |
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Re: Mango fuel filter question
Arlo Bess
Engine is a perkins 4.236.
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Mango fuel filter question
Arlo Bess
Hello there. So I am.looking to change my fuel filters (routine service) and I have no idea what the original Amel fuel system used for this filter. I have already changed the one on the engine but not this little gem...I have a Mango. Any ideas ? It is attached to the tank selector valve
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Anchor Chain
I get the attraction of Cromox;
No rust Stacks nicely, Clean the 10mm chain has a MBL of 10197 Kg, so strong too BUT one hundred meters would cost about £6115 (Jimmy Greene) including VAT but not delivery. Accastillage Diffusion, a French chandlery with outlets all over France and one in Lanzarotte( where I had 100m delivered at no charge as it came with the regular container shipped from France) sells Grade 70 galvanised chain made by Chaineries Limousines with a MBL (breaking load) 11217 Kg for Euro 1390 i.e. about £1200. (Grade 40 has a MBL of only 5000 Kg!! so it is twice as strong as the 40 and even stronger than the Cromox, but at less than 20% of the cost…. How long will the Cromox last? It is really hard to say….5-10 years sounds about right. Will it stretch? I do not think so. So there will be no way of knowing when it needs replacing….maybe it is like standing rigging and will last 12 years…I do not know. How long will the galvanised grade 70 last?….after five years it will probably be looking a bit rusty. One can inspect the links for elongation. One can have it re-galvanised though apparently this will reduce the strength very slightly, by maybe 10%. Of course it is not easy to get re-galvanising done nor is it easy to buy grade 70 chain… Nick (now back in the UK) Amelia (ashore in Leros) AML 54-019 |
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Re: change standing rigging SM
Mohammad Shirloo
Hi;
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We used ACMO France that supplies AMEL. They have all the information on all the boats originally supplied and were very professional and responsive. The rigging arrived in good condition and to exact measurements. If there are any upgrades that AMEL may have done throughout the years, they are aware of them and will ship per the latest design. I would recommend them. The price for the total rigging materials was in the 12-13K Euros of the A54. I do not know the pricing for the SM. If you are in the Med, I would highly recommend Nicky Sammut for the installation. He is based out of Malta, is fast and professional and will travel. Good luck. Happy Sailing; Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo AMEL 54 #099 -----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Seckin Barlas via groups.io Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 8:19 AM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] change standing rigging SM Dear Friends; I want to change my standing rigging of my SM#76. She about 28 years old and haven’t changed yet - unfortunately. Do you have any recommendations for me? Can you please share the parts list? Prices? Is it better to prefer original Amel? Or shall I find some aftermarket solutions? I appreciate for all your valuable responses in advance… Seckin HAYAT SM#76 |
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Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000
Hello fellow Amelians, Having an issue with the genset on SM2000. After no use for 3 months, it would crank but not start. After 8 sec preheat, pressing START, engine cranks fine, but no ignition. Visual check confirms that the fuel shutoff solenoid is not moving to open position when START is engaged. When manually pushing the solenoid to open valve, starts fine. The valve remained open after release and ran fine for several hours. Normal shutdown. Then, to test, did the same procedure. Would not start until manual push on solenoid, but now does not stay in the open position. This generator has only the cutoff switches for temperature and oil pressure, no gauges. Perhaps someone has a quick explanation for the above from experience.
In the meantime, I am trying to figure out the control diagram to assist in troubleshooting. Here’s my logic so far. The Start/Stop toggle switch functionally cuts off the fuel when pressed to the STOP position. In the START position it must energize the SOLENOID to open the fuel valve. The toggle then “defaults” to a neutral position in the RUN mode, so the SOLENOID must remain energized, but not through the switch or it would be continually energize even when off. Furthermore, to protect the running engine, a fault in either oil pressure or engine temperature must de-energize the SOLENOID to cut off fuel. The pressure and temperature “senders” lead to a “2 pole double throw” switch which I presume has the capacity to de-energize the fuel cutoff solenoid when the “sender information” does not meet spec. What I haven’t been able to ferret out is if there is an interface between the START function and the safety cutoff function. Pressing the START should power the solenoid. Does the safety part of the system need to be “happy” during the start, or is it completely independent and takes over powering the solenoid only AFTER the engine starts? Will continue the research, but would appreciate insight from other and would like to know if my assumptions above may be heading me in the wrong direction. Thanks Mike Ondra Aletes SM#240 Rock Hall, MD
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change standing rigging SM
Seckin Barlas
Dear Friends;
I want to change my standing rigging of my SM#76. She about 28 years old and haven’t changed yet - unfortunately. Do you have any recommendations for me? Can you please share the parts list? Prices? Is it better to prefer original Amel? Or shall I find some aftermarket solutions? I appreciate for all your valuable responses in advance… Seckin HAYAT SM#76 |
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Re: Bow-thruster repair at anchor
Grant Starling
Brilliant Paul really helpful....can you tell me who you ordered the parts though? I have been thinking of rebuilding my bow thruster for a while, now I know how! Best Grant
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Re: Anchor sizing
James Alton
Hello,. I was wondering if anyone could comment on the expected service life of the Cromox chain? Also, has anyone had any failures or corrosion issues with this grade of chain. This would certainly be a big expenditure but perhaps worthy of consideration given the mess that traditional steel chains can cause. James Alton SV Sueno Karamu #220 On Sep 14, 2020 3:27 AM, "Bryce Procter via groups.io" <Balibryce@...> wrote: Hi Tuen, |
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