Re: Changing the base of the WC on an older SM
I just recently did this job.
Jabsco claims in their literature the holes on the new part align with the holes on the older style base. They lied. The old style has 4 holes the new one has three holes. Also, be careful. They changed the base’s design and not the part number.
In my case, I did not find the backing plate extended to the area needed for the new bolt placements. This was very evident when drilling the new holes. I filled the old holes with epoxy (I color matched the brown).
I used stainless steel threaded coil inserts secured with resin for the new screw positions. Then screwed the bolts into the inserts.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Robert Nilsen
Hi.
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Re: Changing the base of the WC on an older SM
Hi.
I did this job last summer. On our boat there is a metal backing plate in the basemould. I just sealed the old holes and drilled new ones. These I threaded and just bolted the new toilet down. Best regards Robert S/Y Silfrania SM #53
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Re: Changing the base of the WC on an older SM
I had to change mine several years ago. I took a piece of Starboard and mounted the WC to that, then tapped and mounted that to the original base. It actually worked better as it raised the height a tad, making it more comfortable to sit on. Just my 2 cents. Aras Sharki #163 1988
On Wed, Sep 16, 2020 at 7:32 AM michael winand via groups.io <mfw642000=yahoo.com.au@groups.io> wrote: Hi Ian. There is access via a small cover. You will need a ring spanner with tape to catch the nut from underneath the floor. -- Aras Grinius
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Re: Changing the base of the WC on an older SM
Hi Ian. There is access via a small cover. You will need a ring spanner with tape to catch the nut from underneath the floor.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
This is on a sm251
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Fuel Line
Mark Barter
Could someone please tell me the external diameter of the copper fuel line. It will obviously be the same as the ID of the fuel hoses.
I just can't remember it. Many thanks -- Mark & Nicky Barter S/V Nunky SM 110
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Changing the base of the WC on an older SM
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Hi All,
Some time back I wrote that the base of one of our WCs ( Jabsco 37255 )was starting to crack. Unfortunately, the replacement base ( Part no.37004-1000 ) has its anchoring holes in different places that the original. This is a problem when you can't access
the underneath of the fibreglass platform to which the base is bolted.
The same guy, Neil, as mentioned in my previous email, has a solution which involves drilling a hole wide enough to get the bolt through and then to fix the bolt in place and fill the hole. He will do the work this winter so I will report back on how it goes.
For those in this area, my experience of Neil ( who recently replaced the seals on the gearbox on the main and also stripped down and rebuilt the gearbox on the main outhaul ) is good. He works with FYS yacht services, owned by Christian Grunert, an Austrian,
in Porto Helli. They are full of work. See
www.franks-yachtstation.com
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada
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Bow thruster seal for SM
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Hi all,
Our bow thruster was gently losing oil. Though we rarely use it, as we like to anchor everywhere, it is 20 years old and I suspect that there is a shallow groove where the seal sits on the shaft. I have now switched from a 30mm inside diameter to a 29mm so
this may do the trick.
Neil, a mechanic in this part of the world ( Kilada, Greece ) has pointed out that if the 29mm still leaks I should try a particular SKF seal which ( in Europe) is only available from SKF in Scotland and which has twin seals, the idea being that each of
the two seals will sit just to the side of the groove. I will try that if the leak continues before fitting the new shaft which we have on board.
On a separate note, Neil built his own steel 42 ft boat 20 years ago. He tried to sell pre-Covid. During lockdown he had about 3 hits a day to his very detailed website. On 17th July the UK allowed flights to Greece. The hits on his website immediately went
to 600 ( that's not a typo ! ) per day and he sold for the asking price, sight unseen to a guy who is now thrilled with it.
It seems that Covid might be doing wonders for boat sales.
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada ( waiting to launch, but they are predicting gusts of 50+ for Friday night so....)
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Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay
Our Calpeda died and we replaced it with the March AC-5C-MD, after assessing the flow requirements.
good thing is that now we don't have the Amel bonding connection connected to the AC ground anymore, AND no more screwdriver poking to get the pump to run (always thought that was a bit out there) The pump works fine and I agree with Mark, the bolts and the casing on the motor are corroding, but I think a regular cleanup and Corrosion X is the way to deal with it. We don;t use the A/C that much anyway and rarely with the 3 units all at the same time. We replaced our aft cabin Climma A/C (it had leaks and electrical faults and wasn't considered worth trying to repair) with a Mermaid reverse cycle unit which works really well and has a remote control that allows temperature setting in both heating and cooling modes, like a home A/C. Just wish I could get to Elyse to appreciate it ! Cheers Alan Elyse SM437 .... stuck in Opua, NZ .....me, stuck in Australia !
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Changing the base of the WC on an older SM
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Hi All,
Some time back I wrote that the base of one of our WCs ( Jabsco 37255 )was starting to crack. Unfortunately, the replacement base ( Part no.37004-1000 ) has its anchoring holes in different places that the original. This is a problem when you can't access
the underneath of the fibreglass platform to which the base is bolted.
The same guy, Neil, as mentioned in my previous email, has a solution which involves drilling a hole wide enough to get the bolt through and then to fix the bolt in place and fill the hole. He will do the work this winter so I will report back on how it goes.
For those in this area, my experience of Neil ( who recently replaced the seals on the gearbox on the main and also stripped down and rebuilt the gearbox on the main outhaul ) is good. He works with FYS yacht services, owned by Christian Grunert, an Austrian,
in Porto Helli. They are full of work. See
www.franks-yachtstation.com
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada
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Bow thruster seal for SM
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Hi all,
Our bow thruster was gently losing oil. Though we rarely use it, as we like to anchor everywhere, it is 20 years old and I suspect that there is a shallow groove where the seal sits on the shaft. I have now switched from a 30mm inside diameter to a 29mm so
this may do the trick.
Neil, a mechanic in this part of the world ( Kilada, Greece ) has pointed out that if the 29mm still leaks I should try a particular SKF seal which ( in Europe) is only available from SKF in Scotland and which has twin seals, the idea being that each of
the two seals will sit just to the side of the groove. I will try that if the leak continues before fitting the new shaft which we have on board.
On a separate note, Neil built his own steel 42 ft boat 20 years ago. He tried to sell pre-Covid. During lockdown he had about 3 hits a day to his very detailed website. On 17th July the UK allowed flights to Greece. The hits on his website immediately went
to 600 ( that's not a typo ! ) per day and he sold for the asking price, sight unseen to a guy who is now thrilled with it.
It seems that Covid might be doing wonders for boat sales.
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada ( waiting to launch, but they are predicting gusts of 50+ for Friday night so....)
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Re: Raymarine s3g ast / st7002 / linear autopilot failure
Scott SV Tengah
It turns out the problem was carbon buildup on the brushes. We have put 20k nm and I am guessing the previous owners logged at least 10k nm on the unit.
Anyone have any luck finding replacement brushes for Raymarine Type 2 linear drive? My understanding is that the brushes are: Morganite Electrical Carbon 6x10x20mm, grade CM9/M50-5113. Or for those on imperial...0.24x0.39x0.79inches. I believe that's for the 12v model, but perhaps the brushes are the same? -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Mango fuel filter question
Hi Arlo,
My two cents. If I recall correctly, your original post said you were simply wanting to do routine maintenance of changing the fuel filter and you wondered if the water separator was another filter (it is not). You did not mention having had any problems. If so, why complicate things by adding another (redundant) filter and a gauge (or another pump for priming or even a fuel polishing system)? Seems you might just follow the "kiss" principle, clean out the water separator, change the primary filter, and be happy. Of course, you can do anything you choose but, frankly, I see no particular advantage to complicating what Amel originally installed. -- Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000
Germain Jean-Pierre
Hello Mike and Jose,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
The PO was wrong. My MDKAL starts immediately without any preheat. Find a Kubota dealer who has a roving mechanic... Good luck Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, NZ
On 15/09/2020, at 7:13 AM, Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay
I replace the Caleda pump about 5 years ago based on a recommendation by Coastal Climate Control (the US Climma distributor). This is the pump I have:
https://www.marchpump.com/pump/te-5-5c-md-13-phase-mag-drive-pump/
It is rated at 1620 GPH 50htz and 1800 GPH 60htz, ample to run all three ACunits in series.
The cost of the pump is about US$600. They are sold all over the world as are replacement parts. I prefer this design over the Calpeda because it doesn’t have the expensive bronze impeller and there is no metal in contact with sea-water. The March pump has a magnetic drive and plastic (polypropylene) head. However, the pump hasn’t fared well and the exterior screws on the pump end (not the impeller housing) have rusted a little bit as did the capacitor cover (since changed on the newer models). I have to treat the pump with some Corrosion X periodically. This seems to work well. Perhaps the newer ones are more engine-room compatible.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
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Re: Mango fuel filter question
Arlo
Once again, this group is awesome, and I appreciate the quick info. I will check it tomorrow and see how the fuel looks. So I only have 1 spin on filter on the engine then. So this begs the question of adding a Racor 500FG so that I can have a primary filter on the bulkhead with a visual on fuel quality and a fuel vacuum gauge as an indicator of filter condition before it gets to the secondary filter on the engine. I had this setup on my previous Ford Lehman and it worked like a champ. I also had an inline electric fuel pump that I used to prime the Racor when changing filters.
Any thoughts?
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Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay
Gotta love Ali-Express – Only $180!
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/4000116905213.html
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
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Re: Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000
Mike, Is it possible that you are talking about the Onan Governor, Actuator (new part #306−5006−01 old#151-0779-01), which increases rpm under load and shuts off when you press stop? If you are, it is possible that the governor is bad, or the control board is bad. I am not sure how to test other than to attempt to check voltage changes when pressing start or stop. If there are voltage changes the control board (PCB) is probably OK. There may be a fuse on the control board or in-line with the governor if you get no voltage. You should also see if the gov actuator opens up more fuel when load is added...if not, there is a problem with the actuator or PCB. The purpose of the Gov. Actuator is to maintain constant RPM, regardless of the load. This maintains a constant 50htz frequency. I carried a spare but never had to use it. Bill
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Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay
When you are doing your calculations, don't forget the ACs are in series. This requires up to 50% more flow. Calpeda no longer offers a BCM20/E, they currently offer a Calpeda BCM22/1/A-R and it is 50/60Hz. It moves 1,700GPH. It is currently in stock at Caraibes Refrigeration in Martinique. This is the pump I recommend above all others.
On Tue, Sep 15, 2020 at 3:03 PM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote: Hi Nick,
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Re: Raymarine s3g ast / st7002 / linear autopilot failure
I had a failure of the Raymarine TYPE 2 Linear drive. It was the clutch that failed. The message was not drivestop. From the SG# Manual - DRIVESTOP error: The autopilot is unable to turn the rudder (this occurs if the weather load on helm is too high, or if the rudder position sensor has passed beyond the preset rudder limits or rudder end-stops). Check drive and rudder position sensor. Check the drive wiring is correctly connected. That voltage for the motor output is low, but maybe it is low because of resistance in the motor...check with the motor disconnected. Maybe a failure of the SG3. Do you have a spare? Dan Gerhardt <C250@...> can repair SG3. Bill
On Tue, Sep 15, 2020 at 3:13 PM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote: Hi all,
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Raymarine s3g ast / st7002 / linear autopilot failure
Scott SV Tengah
Hi all,
We just had our raymarine linear autopilot with the sg3 ast computer fail after working flawlessly for our entire ownership.
The error on the head unit raymarine st7002 says "Drive stopped".
The sg3 ast supply is at 26.8v and the clutch is correctly set at 12v and gets around 12.48v
What I do notice is that the voltage at the computer motor output and consequently the linear drive is only 13.4v
I checked all raymarine computer fuses and cleaned the fuse contacts to no avail.
Has anyone experienced a failure like this or have any idea what I should check?
Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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