Date   

Bow thruster seal for SM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi all,

 Our bow thruster was gently losing oil. Though we rarely use it, as we like to anchor everywhere, it is 20 years old and I suspect that there is a shallow groove where the seal sits on the shaft. I have now switched from a 30mm inside diameter to a 29mm so this may do the trick.
 Neil, a mechanic in this   part of the world ( Kilada, Greece ) has pointed out that if the 29mm still leaks I should try a particular SKF seal which  ( in Europe) is only available from SKF in Scotland  and which has twin seals, the idea being that each of the two seals will sit just to the side of the groove. I will try that if the leak continues before fitting the new shaft which we have on board.

On a separate note, Neil built his own steel 42 ft boat 20 years ago. He tried to sell pre-Covid. During lockdown he had about 3 hits a day to his very detailed website. On 17th July the UK allowed flights to Greece. The hits on his website immediately went to 600 ( that's not a typo ! ) per day and he sold for the asking price, sight unseen to a guy who is now thrilled with it.

It seems that Covid might be doing wonders for boat sales. 

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada ( waiting to launch, but they are predicting gusts of 50+ for Friday night so....)


Re: Raymarine s3g ast / st7002 / linear autopilot failure

Scott SV Tengah
 

It turns out the problem was carbon buildup on the brushes. We have put 20k nm and I am guessing the previous owners logged at least 10k nm on the unit.

Anyone have any luck finding replacement brushes for Raymarine Type 2 linear drive?

My understanding is that the brushes are: Morganite Electrical Carbon 6x10x20mm, grade CM9/M50-5113.  Or for those on imperial...0.24x0.39x0.79inches. I believe that's for the 12v model, but perhaps the brushes are the same? 
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Mango fuel filter question

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Arlo,
My two cents.

If I recall correctly, your original post said you were simply wanting to do routine maintenance of changing the fuel filter and you wondered if the water separator was another filter (it is not).  You did not mention having had any problems. If so, why complicate things by adding another (redundant) filter and a gauge (or another pump for priming or even a fuel polishing system)? 

Seems you might just follow the "kiss" principle, clean out the water separator, change the primary filter, and be happy. Of course, you can do anything you choose but, frankly, I see no particular advantage to complicating what Amel originally installed.
--
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Mike and Jose,

The PO was wrong. My MDKAL starts immediately without any preheat.

Find a Kubota dealer who has a roving mechanic...

Good luck

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, NZ

On 15/09/2020, at 7:13 AM, Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Mike,
When I bought the boat the previous owner told me that the generator needed to be preheated for at least 20 seconds. I do that every time and it starts every time. I hope this helps you.
Hi Mike,
When I bought the boat the previous owner told me that the generator needed to be preheated for at least 20 seconds. I do that every time and it starts every time. I hope this helps you.



Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

Mark Erdos
 

I replace the Caleda pump about 5 years ago based on a recommendation by Coastal Climate Control (the US Climma distributor). This is the pump I have:

 

https://www.marchpump.com/pump/te-5-5c-md-13-phase-mag-drive-pump/

 

march-pump-te-5.5c-md-900x1007.jpg

 

It is rated at 1620 GPH 50htz and 1800 GPH 60htz, ample to run all three ACunits in series.

 

The cost of the pump is about US$600. They are sold all over the world as are replacement parts. I prefer this design over the Calpeda because it doesn’t have the expensive bronze impeller and there is no metal in contact with sea-water. The March pump has a magnetic drive and plastic (polypropylene) head.  However, the pump hasn’t fared well and the exterior screws on the pump end (not the impeller housing) have rusted a little bit as did the capacitor cover (since changed on the newer models). I have to treat the pump with some Corrosion X periodically. This seems to work well. Perhaps the newer ones are more engine-room compatible.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: Mango fuel filter question

Arlo
 

Once again, this group  is awesome, and I appreciate the quick info. I will check it tomorrow and see how the fuel looks. So I only have 1 spin on filter on the engine then. So this begs the question of adding a Racor 500FG so that I can have a primary filter on the bulkhead with a visual on fuel quality and a fuel vacuum gauge as an indicator of filter condition before it gets to the secondary filter on the engine. I had this setup on my previous Ford Lehman and it worked like a champ. I also had an inline electric fuel pump that I used to prime the Racor when changing filters.

Any thoughts? 


Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

Mark Erdos
 

Gotta love Ali-Express – Only $180!

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/4000116905213.html

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000

 

Mike,

Is it possible that you are talking about the Onan Governor, Actuator (new part #306−5006−01 old#151-0779-01), which increases rpm under load and shuts off when you press stop?

If you are, it is possible that the governor is bad, or the control board is bad.

I am not sure how to test other than to attempt to check voltage changes when pressing start or stop. If there are voltage changes the control board (PCB) is probably OK. There may be a fuse on the control board or in-line with the governor if you get no voltage. You should also see if the gov actuator opens up more fuel when load is added...if not, there is a problem with the actuator or PCB. The purpose of the Gov. Actuator is to maintain constant RPM, regardless of the load. This maintains a constant 50htz frequency.

I carried a spare but never had to use it.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 10:29 AM Mike Ondra via groups.io <mdondra=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:

Hello fellow Amelians,

Having an issue with the genset on SM2000.

After no use for 3 months, it would crank but not start. After 8 sec preheat, pressing START, engine cranks fine, but no ignition. Visual check confirms that the fuel shutoff solenoid is not moving to open position when START is engaged. When manually pushing the solenoid to open valve, starts fine. The valve remained open after release and ran fine for several hours. Normal shutdown. Then, to test, did the same procedure. Would not start until manual push on solenoid, but now does not stay in the open position.

This generator has only the cutoff switches for temperature and oil pressure, no gauges.

Perhaps someone has a quick explanation for the above from experience.

 

In the meantime, I am trying to figure out the control diagram to assist in troubleshooting. Here’s my logic so far.

The Start/Stop toggle switch functionally cuts off the fuel when pressed to the STOP position. In the START position it must energize the SOLENOID to open the fuel valve. The toggle then “defaults” to a neutral position in the RUN mode, so the SOLENOID must remain energized, but not through the switch or it would be continually energize even when off.

Furthermore, to protect the running engine, a fault in either oil pressure or engine temperature must de-energize the SOLENOID to cut off fuel. The pressure and temperature “senders” lead to a “2 pole double throw” switch which I presume has the capacity to de-energize the fuel cutoff solenoid when the “sender information” does not meet spec.

What I haven’t been able to ferret out is if there is an interface between the START function and the safety cutoff function.

Pressing the START should power the solenoid. Does the safety part of the system need to be “happy” during the start, or is it completely independent and takes over powering the solenoid only AFTER the engine starts?

Will continue the research, but would appreciate insight from other and  would like to know if my assumptions above may be heading me in the wrong direction.

Thanks

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240 Rock Hall, MD

 

 

 


Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

 

When you are doing your calculations, don't forget the ACs are in series. This requires up to 50% more flow. Calpeda no longer offers a BCM20/E, they currently offer a Calpeda BCM22/1/A-R and it is 50/60Hz. It moves 1,700GPH. It is currently in stock at Caraibes Refrigeration in Martinique. This is the pump I recommend above all others.
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Sep 15, 2020 at 3:03 PM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi Nick,

The original pump in our boat was an Calpeda pump (M67270U). That one was leaking badly so I replaced it with a M67270J: https://penguinfrigo.co.uk/product/m67270-sea-water-pump-50-l-m-at-10m-head-ac-capacity-60000-btu/
That is the same pump but then specified for both 50 and 60Hz. The article numbers are from Veco/Climma. Calpeda calls the pump BCM-20A.

Cheers,

Arno


Re: Raymarine s3g ast / st7002 / linear autopilot failure

 

I had a failure of the Raymarine TYPE 2 Linear drive. It was the clutch that failed. The message was not drivestop.
From the SG# Manual - DRIVESTOP  error:
The autopilot is unable to turn the rudder (this occurs if the weather load on helm is too high, or if the rudder position sensor has passed beyond the preset rudder limits or rudder end-stops). Check drive and rudder position sensor. Check the drive wiring is correctly connected.

That voltage for the motor output is low, but maybe it is low because of resistance in the motor...check with the motor disconnected. 

Maybe a failure of the SG3.

Do you have a spare? Dan Gerhardt <C250@...> can repair SG3.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Sep 15, 2020 at 3:13 PM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Hi all, 
 
We just had our raymarine linear autopilot with the sg3 ast computer fail after working flawlessly for our entire ownership. 
 
The error on the head unit raymarine st7002 says "Drive stopped". 
 
The sg3 ast supply is at 26.8v and the clutch is correctly set at 12v and gets around 12.48v
 
What I do notice is that the voltage at the computer motor output and consequently the linear drive is only 13.4v
 
I checked all raymarine computer fuses and cleaned the fuse contacts to no avail. 
 
Has anyone experienced a failure like this or have any idea what I should check? 
 
 
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Raymarine s3g ast / st7002 / linear autopilot failure

Scott SV Tengah
 

Hi all, 
 
We just had our raymarine linear autopilot with the sg3 ast computer fail after working flawlessly for our entire ownership. 
 
The error on the head unit raymarine st7002 says "Drive stopped". 
 
The sg3 ast supply is at 26.8v and the clutch is correctly set at 12v and gets around 12.48v
 
What I do notice is that the voltage at the computer motor output and consequently the linear drive is only 13.4v
 
I checked all raymarine computer fuses and cleaned the fuse contacts to no avail. 
 
Has anyone experienced a failure like this or have any idea what I should check? 
 
 
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Nick,

The original pump in our boat was an Calpeda pump (M67270U). That one was leaking badly so I replaced it with a M67270J: https://penguinfrigo.co.uk/product/m67270-sea-water-pump-50-l-m-at-10m-head-ac-capacity-60000-btu/
That is the same pump but then specified for both 50 and 60Hz. The article numbers are from Veco/Climma. Calpeda calls the pump BCM-20A.

Cheers,

Arno


Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

Arnold Mente
 

My pumps March LC 3CP MD and LC 2CP MD are gone down this summer on my SM. I will replace them with a SEAFLO 220 VOLT Marine Air Conditioning Pump 500GPH and 250GPH.
The price is 1/4 from March factory price, so it is no risk to test them!!

Arnold
SY Zephyr
SM 203


Am 15.09.2020 um 19:22 schrieb ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>:

Sorry Arno,

You mentioned that you have a  Calpeda pump..

Do you know which model it is?

Kind regards

Nick


On 15 Sep 2020, at 18:05, ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

Hi Arno,

On the Dormaire website they say the 500 GPH SEAFLO model is suitable for 24000 BTU.

However seeing as I have 26000 BTU I think on balance I will forget it.

The Dormaire website also has a 650GPH magnetic pump suitable for systems up to 30000BTU priced at 220 euros. That could be an option.

My Gianeshi pump is beginning to dribble salt water at the shaft seal. I have a spare seal kit but last time I took it apart the bronze vanes were a bit fragile, so I left it with the intention of replacing it with new.

This is really not an urgent project as the dribble merely wets a sponge, but it is salt water and it will not get better on its own.

Kind regards

Nick


On 15 Sep 2020, at 17:47, ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

Arno there are two models. The 250 GPH and the 500GPH. I think the 500 will do 24000 BTU

Nick
On 15 Sep 2020, at 17:46, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Actually they claim only 12000 BTU (see website). Forget about the 35 lpm capacity. The resistance in the circuit is substantial. My guess would be more close to 10 lpm. 

Arno






--
Arnold
SY Zephyr SM203


Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

ngtnewington Newington
 

Sorry Arno,

You mentioned that you have a  Calpeda pump..

Do you know which model it is?

Kind regards

Nick


On 15 Sep 2020, at 18:05, ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

Hi Arno,

On the Dormaire website they say the 500 GPH SEAFLO model is suitable for 24000 BTU.

However seeing as I have 26000 BTU I think on balance I will forget it.

The Dormaire website also has a 650GPH magnetic pump suitable for systems up to 30000BTU priced at 220 euros. That could be an option.

My Gianeshi pump is beginning to dribble salt water at the shaft seal. I have a spare seal kit but last time I took it apart the bronze vanes were a bit fragile, so I left it with the intention of replacing it with new.

This is really not an urgent project as the dribble merely wets a sponge, but it is salt water and it will not get better on its own.

Kind regards

Nick


On 15 Sep 2020, at 17:47, ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

Arno there are two models. The 250 GPH and the 500GPH. I think the 500 will do 24000 BTU

Nick
On 15 Sep 2020, at 17:46, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Actually they claim only 12000 BTU (see website). Forget about the 35 lpm capacity. The resistance in the circuit is substantial. My guess would be more close to 10 lpm. 

Arno




Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Arno,

On the Dormaire website they say the 500 GPH SEAFLO model is suitable for 24000 BTU.

However seeing as I have 26000 BTU I think on balance I will forget it.

The Dormaire website also has a 650GPH magnetic pump suitable for systems up to 30000BTU priced at 220 euros. That could be an option.

My Gianeshi pump is beginning to dribble salt water at the shaft seal. I have a spare seal kit but last time I took it apart the bronze vanes were a bit fragile, so I left it with the intention of replacing it with new.

This is really not an urgent project as the dribble merely wets a sponge, but it is salt water and it will not get better on its own.

Kind regards

Nick


On 15 Sep 2020, at 17:47, ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

Arno there are two models. The 250 GPH and the 500GPH. I think the 500 will do 24000 BTU

Nick
On 15 Sep 2020, at 17:46, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Actually they claim only 12000 BTU (see website). Forget about the 35 lpm capacity. The resistance in the circuit is substantial. My guess would be more close to 10 lpm.

Arno



Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

ngtnewington Newington
 

Arno there are two models. The 250 GPH and the 500GPH. I think the 500 will do 24000 BTU

Nick

On 15 Sep 2020, at 17:46, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Actually they claim only 12000 BTU (see website). Forget about the 35 lpm capacity. The resistance in the circuit is substantial. My guess would be more close to 10 lpm.

Arno


Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

Arno Luijten
 

Actually they claim only 12000 BTU (see website). Forget about the 35 lpm capacity. The resistance in the circuit is substantial. My guess would be more close to 10 lpm.

Arno


Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Arno,

Yes I am inclined to agree with you especially in terms of  BTU I have two 8000 and one 10000 which comes to 26000BTU. Which is more than the 24000 the pump claims as it’s capacity.

However on the sticker placed on the units they all require 9 litres per hour. When actually they will get 31-35 litres per hour but the last aircon in the circuit will have warmer water as the coolers are one circuit in series.

I was wondering if anyone had tried this pump out, as although not expensive and maybe worth a try it could be a bit of a waste of time..

Nick

Amelia (stores ashore in Leros)

 AML 54-019


On 15 Sep 2020, at 16:23, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Interesting find. This is their website http://www.seaflo.com/en-us/product/detail/3160.html
Seems happy with both 50 and 60 Hertz and is even submersible.

However the specs seem to pose a problem for most Amels (see first line below):

- For use with AC system up to 12,000 BTU.
- More than 10,000 hours lifetime.
- 8.5GPM seawater circulation pump.
- Run dry safe for normal workloads.
- Continuous duty.
- Replace any brand marine air conditioning pump.

Amels typically have around 30k BTU (about 9kW of cooling power)  aircon (three units combined).
The flow rate suggests that the output resistance may be the problem. Output resistance can be seen a the height (head) the water needs to be elevated after the pump.

Looking at details you can see the Seaflow does approx. 36 lpm at zero head and 4 lpm at 6 meter head.
Calpeda does 80 lpm at 9 meter head and 25 lpm at 12 meter head
The latter also uses twice the electrical power.

So my guess is that the pump lacks the power to push enough water trough the pipes. I did the same exercise some time ago with March pumps and found the same problem.

Kind regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: main sail furler gear box maramu 1986

James Alton
 

Philippe,

   My boat is a 1987 model Maramu.  Removal of the electric powered gearbox at the bottom is simple.  Just remove the four lower bolts.  I was unable to remove the manual gearbox on my boat after removing all of the rest of the fasteners for apparently the same reason you stated.  While there is some vertical play in the extrusion it is not enough to slide it up enough to clear the shaft sticking out of the top of the manual gearbox that extend into the extrusion.  Removing the bolts holding the manual gearbox allows the box to drop some but the movement is limited since the long shaft for the winch handle goes through the front of the mast so again not enough clearance to free the extrusion.  Inspecting the top of my mast there is  a top plate that the extrusion is attached to and serves as a top bearing.  When the extrusion is lifted it is this plate that the extrusion is hitting.  I believe if that plate were removed that the extrusion could be lifted to disengage at the bottom from the shaft on the manual gearbox.  I have not yet tried this since my mast is up, time was limited and this would be a bit of a project working from the top of the mast.  It would be great if someone knows of a more simple way to remove the manual gearbox as I would like to service mine.  I did clean and regrease my main swivel without removing it as you can see from the photos.  Replacement of the seals and or bearings is impossible without removal of the swivel from the extrusion.   I am glad that you asked this question.  If anyone knows how to disengage the main furler extrusion from the top of the manual gearbox please let us know.

Best,
James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramu #220





On Sep 15, 2020, at 10:13 AM, Philippe Belloir <pbelloir@...> wrote:

precision. i found this photo see attachement
at the step 2, impossible to go up enough to liberate the swivel.
The slot on the furling tube in the mast is just in front (i take the sail out)
any advise, solution,
thank yyou
Philippe <Steps to remove mainsail swivel gearbox on Maramu.jpeg>


Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

Arno Luijten
 

Interesting find. This is their website http://www.seaflo.com/en-us/product/detail/3160.html
Seems happy with both 50 and 60 Hertz and is even submersible.

However the specs seem to pose a problem for most Amels (see first line below):

- For use with AC system up to 12,000 BTU.
- More than 10,000 hours lifetime.
- 8.5GPM seawater circulation pump.

- Run dry safe for normal workloads.

- Continuous duty.
- Replace any brand marine air conditioning pump.

Amels typically have around 30k BTU (about 9kW of cooling power)  aircon (three units combined).
The flow rate suggests that the output resistance may be the problem. Output resistance can be seen a the height (head) the water needs to be elevated after the pump.

Looking at details you can see the Seaflow does approx. 36 lpm at zero head and 4 lpm at 6 meter head.
Calpeda does 80 lpm at 9 meter head and 25 lpm at 12 meter head
The latter also uses twice the electrical power.

So my guess is that the pump lacks the power to push enough water trough the pipes. I did the same exercise some time ago with March pumps and found the same problem.

Kind regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

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