Date   

Re: Cheek blocks on Mango or older Amel

Arlo
 

Thanks Dennis!


Re: Bow thruster seal for SM

Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...>
 

Hello Ian and Judy,

I rebuilt my bow thruster twice.  The first time was in Trinidad, and the second time was in New Zealand 18 months ago.  I made a video about the bow thruster https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-xWzNfnWLw

The previous owner of Aquarius had left a spare shaft from Amel on the the boat, so in New Zealand I replaced the shaft and the seal.  Just replacing the seal with a smaller diameter inner measurement will probably not give you the proper fit.  I would have the shaft machined down to the point it's smooth and get the proper sized seal for the final measurement after the shaft is completely smooth.  I replaced mine, but one of these days I will have the old shaft machined and purchase some properly sized seals so that I have a spare shaft.  After seeing what happened to JP's boat, completely rebuilding his bow thruster in New Zealand as well.  I decided to purchase the entire gear, shaft and bearing set from Maud.  I now have this as a spare on Aquarius.  Thus, I can rebuild the bottom end of the bow thruster in an afternoon with the parts on Aquarius.  No machine shop required.  

Paul also did a rebuild video of the bow thruster bottom end.  https://youtu.be/6zRPHvzMvtg
And he had the kit from Maud which he shows in the video.  And he did his at anchor.

After I replaced the shaft in New Zealand, I have had no leakage.  I am now on the hard in Thailand, and everything still looks great after 18 months and going from New Zealand to Thailand.

All the best,

Ken Powers
Aquarius SM2K #262
On the hard in Krabi Boat Lagoon 


Re: Cheek blocks on Mango or older Amel

Denis Foster
 

Hello,

Looks like an old Lewmar footblock. There is a new model but the holes are different. You can find the old model on ebay uk.

Fair winds

Denis 
ex Meltem #32


Cheek blocks on Mango or older Amel

Arlo
 

Hello all. I need to replace the cheek block on my Mango. Does anyone know who the original manufacturwr or modelnof these blocks are ? Also any recommendations? Schaefer, Harken, garhauler, ronstan all make cheekblocks but In wanted to see what others have been successful with. I am in the USA.
 Thanks
1985 Mango # 46


Re: Anchor sizing

Rob Hughes
 

Did you need to change the bow roller to the ultra style or did your stock super maramu one work with the new anchor?


Re: Anchor sizing

Teun BAAS
 

Hi Bryce,

 

Yeah I am aware of the 60 days refund but my intention is to sail AUSTRALIAN waters for the season (or maybe 2 seasons) 😊 I hear the WHITSUNDAYS are magnificent.

 

I could postpone buying the chain until I am ready to leave.

 

Best Regards Teun

 

A54 2009 #128

September 16, 2020 12:26:40

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bryce Procter via groups.io
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 16:47
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Anchor sizing

 

Hi Tuen,

 

If you purchase the chain within 60 days of departure you should also be able to claim back the 10% GST.

 

Cheers

 

Bryce


Re: Changing the base of the WC on an older SM

Mark Erdos
 

I just recently did this job.

 

Jabsco claims in their literature the holes on the new part align with the holes on the older style base. They lied. The old style has 4 holes the new one has three holes. Also, be careful. They changed the base’s design and not the part number.

 

In my case, I did not find the backing plate extended to the area needed for the new bolt placements. This was very evident when drilling the new holes. I filled the old holes with epoxy (I color matched the brown).

 

I used stainless steel threaded coil inserts secured with resin for the new screw positions. Then screwed the bolts into the inserts.

 

 

 

4ZY16_AS01.jpg

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Robert Nilsen
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2020 2:03 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Changing the base of the WC on an older SM

 

Hi. 
I did this job last summer. 
On our boat there is a metal backing plate in the basemould. I just sealed the old holes and drilled new ones. These I threaded and just bolted the new toilet down.

Best regards 
Robert 
S/Y Silfrania 
SM #53 


Re: Changing the base of the WC on an older SM

Robert Nilsen
 

Hi. 
I did this job last summer. 
On our boat there is a metal backing plate in the basemould. I just sealed the old holes and drilled new ones. These I threaded and just bolted the new toilet down.

Best regards 
Robert 
S/Y Silfrania 
SM #53 


Re: Changing the base of the WC on an older SM

Aras Grinius
 

I had to change mine several years ago.  I took a piece of Starboard and mounted the WC to that, then tapped and mounted that to the original base.   It actually worked better as it raised the height a tad, making it more comfortable to sit on.  Just my 2 cents.

Aras
Sharki #163 1988



On Wed, Sep 16, 2020 at 7:32 AM michael winand via groups.io <mfw642000=yahoo.com.au@groups.io> wrote:
Hi  Ian. There is access via a small cover. You will need a ring spanner with tape to catch the nut from underneath the floor. 
This is on a sm251 
Regards Michael 


On Wed, 16 Sep 2020 at 8:00 pm, ianjenkins1946

 
Hi All,

 Some time back I wrote that the base of one of our WCs  ( Jabsco 37255 )was starting to crack. Unfortunately, the replacement base ( Part no.37004-1000 ) has its anchoring holes in different places that the original. This is a problem when you can't access the underneath of the fibreglass platform to which the base is bolted.
 The same guy, Neil, as mentioned in my previous email, has a solution which involves drilling a hole wide enough to get the bolt through and then to fix the bolt in place and fill the hole.  He will do the work this winter so I will report back on how it goes.

 For those in this area, my experience of Neil ( who  recently replaced the seals on the gearbox on the main and also stripped down and rebuilt the gearbox on the main outhaul ) is good. He works with FYS yacht services, owned by Christian Grunert, an Austrian, in Porto Helli. They are full of work. See www.franks-yachtstation.com 

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada



--
Aras Grinius


Re: Changing the base of the WC on an older SM

michael winand
 

Hi  Ian. There is access via a small cover. You will need a ring spanner with tape to catch the nut from underneath the floor. 
This is on a sm251 
Regards Michael 


On Wed, 16 Sep 2020 at 8:00 pm, ianjenkins1946
<ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:

 
Hi All,

 Some time back I wrote that the base of one of our WCs  ( Jabsco 37255 )was starting to crack. Unfortunately, the replacement base ( Part no.37004-1000 ) has its anchoring holes in different places that the original. This is a problem when you can't access the underneath of the fibreglass platform to which the base is bolted.
 The same guy, Neil, as mentioned in my previous email, has a solution which involves drilling a hole wide enough to get the bolt through and then to fix the bolt in place and fill the hole.  He will do the work this winter so I will report back on how it goes.

 For those in this area, my experience of Neil ( who  recently replaced the seals on the gearbox on the main and also stripped down and rebuilt the gearbox on the main outhaul ) is good. He works with FYS yacht services, owned by Christian Grunert, an Austrian, in Porto Helli. They are full of work. See www.franks-yachtstation.com 

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada


Fuel Line

Mark Barter
 

Could someone please tell me the external diameter of the copper fuel line. It will obviously be the same as the ID of the fuel hoses.

I just can't remember it.

Many thanks
--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


Changing the base of the WC on an older SM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 


 
Hi All,

 Some time back I wrote that the base of one of our WCs  ( Jabsco 37255 )was starting to crack. Unfortunately, the replacement base ( Part no.37004-1000 ) has its anchoring holes in different places that the original. This is a problem when you can't access the underneath of the fibreglass platform to which the base is bolted.
 The same guy, Neil, as mentioned in my previous email, has a solution which involves drilling a hole wide enough to get the bolt through and then to fix the bolt in place and fill the hole.  He will do the work this winter so I will report back on how it goes.

 For those in this area, my experience of Neil ( who  recently replaced the seals on the gearbox on the main and also stripped down and rebuilt the gearbox on the main outhaul ) is good. He works with FYS yacht services, owned by Christian Grunert, an Austrian, in Porto Helli. They are full of work. See www.franks-yachtstation.com 

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada


Bow thruster seal for SM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 


 
Hi all,

 Our bow thruster was gently losing oil. Though we rarely use it, as we like to anchor everywhere, it is 20 years old and I suspect that there is a shallow groove where the seal sits on the shaft. I have now switched from a 30mm inside diameter to a 29mm so this may do the trick.
 Neil, a mechanic in this   part of the world ( Kilada, Greece ) has pointed out that if the 29mm still leaks I should try a particular SKF seal which  ( in Europe) is only available from SKF in Scotland  and which has twin seals, the idea being that each of the two seals will sit just to the side of the groove. I will try that if the leak continues before fitting the new shaft which we have on board.

On a separate note, Neil built his own steel 42 ft boat 20 years ago. He tried to sell pre-Covid. During lockdown he had about 3 hits a day to his very detailed website. On 17th July the UK allowed flights to Greece. The hits on his website immediately went to 600 ( that's not a typo ! ) per day and he sold for the asking price, sight unseen to a guy who is now thrilled with it.

It seems that Covid might be doing wonders for boat sales. 

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada ( waiting to launch, but they are predicting gusts of 50+ for Friday night so....)


Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

Alan Leslie
 

Our Calpeda died and we replaced it with the March AC-5C-MD, after assessing the flow requirements.
good thing is that now we don't have the Amel bonding connection connected to the AC ground anymore, AND no more screwdriver poking to get the pump to run (always thought that was a bit out there)
The pump works fine and I agree with Mark, the bolts and the casing on the motor are corroding, but I think a regular cleanup and Corrosion X is the way to deal with it.
We don;t use the A/C that much anyway and rarely with the 3 units all at the same time.
We replaced our aft cabin Climma A/C (it had leaks and electrical faults and wasn't considered worth trying to repair) with a Mermaid reverse cycle unit which works really well and has a remote control that allows temperature setting in both heating and cooling modes, like a home A/C.
Just wish I could get to Elyse to appreciate it !

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437 .... stuck in Opua, NZ .....me, stuck in Australia !


Changing the base of the WC on an older SM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi All,

 Some time back I wrote that the base of one of our WCs  ( Jabsco 37255 )was starting to crack. Unfortunately, the replacement base ( Part no.37004-1000 ) has its anchoring holes in different places that the original. This is a problem when you can't access the underneath of the fibreglass platform to which the base is bolted.
 The same guy, Neil, as mentioned in my previous email, has a solution which involves drilling a hole wide enough to get the bolt through and then to fix the bolt in place and fill the hole.  He will do the work this winter so I will report back on how it goes.

 For those in this area, my experience of Neil ( who  recently replaced the seals on the gearbox on the main and also stripped down and rebuilt the gearbox on the main outhaul ) is good. He works with FYS yacht services, owned by Christian Grunert, an Austrian, in Porto Helli. They are full of work. See www.franks-yachtstation.com 

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada


Bow thruster seal for SM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi all,

 Our bow thruster was gently losing oil. Though we rarely use it, as we like to anchor everywhere, it is 20 years old and I suspect that there is a shallow groove where the seal sits on the shaft. I have now switched from a 30mm inside diameter to a 29mm so this may do the trick.
 Neil, a mechanic in this   part of the world ( Kilada, Greece ) has pointed out that if the 29mm still leaks I should try a particular SKF seal which  ( in Europe) is only available from SKF in Scotland  and which has twin seals, the idea being that each of the two seals will sit just to the side of the groove. I will try that if the leak continues before fitting the new shaft which we have on board.

On a separate note, Neil built his own steel 42 ft boat 20 years ago. He tried to sell pre-Covid. During lockdown he had about 3 hits a day to his very detailed website. On 17th July the UK allowed flights to Greece. The hits on his website immediately went to 600 ( that's not a typo ! ) per day and he sold for the asking price, sight unseen to a guy who is now thrilled with it.

It seems that Covid might be doing wonders for boat sales. 

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada ( waiting to launch, but they are predicting gusts of 50+ for Friday night so....)


Re: Raymarine s3g ast / st7002 / linear autopilot failure

Scott SV Tengah
 

It turns out the problem was carbon buildup on the brushes. We have put 20k nm and I am guessing the previous owners logged at least 10k nm on the unit.

Anyone have any luck finding replacement brushes for Raymarine Type 2 linear drive?

My understanding is that the brushes are: Morganite Electrical Carbon 6x10x20mm, grade CM9/M50-5113.  Or for those on imperial...0.24x0.39x0.79inches. I believe that's for the 12v model, but perhaps the brushes are the same? 
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Mango fuel filter question

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Arlo,
My two cents.

If I recall correctly, your original post said you were simply wanting to do routine maintenance of changing the fuel filter and you wondered if the water separator was another filter (it is not).  You did not mention having had any problems. If so, why complicate things by adding another (redundant) filter and a gauge (or another pump for priming or even a fuel polishing system)? 

Seems you might just follow the "kiss" principle, clean out the water separator, change the primary filter, and be happy. Of course, you can do anything you choose but, frankly, I see no particular advantage to complicating what Amel originally installed.
--
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Mike and Jose,

The PO was wrong. My MDKAL starts immediately without any preheat.

Find a Kubota dealer who has a roving mechanic...

Good luck

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, NZ

On 15/09/2020, at 7:13 AM, Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Mike,
When I bought the boat the previous owner told me that the generator needed to be preheated for at least 20 seconds. I do that every time and it starts every time. I hope this helps you.
Hi Mike,
When I bought the boat the previous owner told me that the generator needed to be preheated for at least 20 seconds. I do that every time and it starts every time. I hope this helps you.



Re: SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay

Mark Erdos
 

I replace the Caleda pump about 5 years ago based on a recommendation by Coastal Climate Control (the US Climma distributor). This is the pump I have:

 

https://www.marchpump.com/pump/te-5-5c-md-13-phase-mag-drive-pump/

 

march-pump-te-5.5c-md-900x1007.jpg

 

It is rated at 1620 GPH 50htz and 1800 GPH 60htz, ample to run all three ACunits in series.

 

The cost of the pump is about US$600. They are sold all over the world as are replacement parts. I prefer this design over the Calpeda because it doesn’t have the expensive bronze impeller and there is no metal in contact with sea-water. The March pump has a magnetic drive and plastic (polypropylene) head.  However, the pump hasn’t fared well and the exterior screws on the pump end (not the impeller housing) have rusted a little bit as did the capacitor cover (since changed on the newer models). I have to treat the pump with some Corrosion X periodically. This seems to work well. Perhaps the newer ones are more engine-room compatible.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

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