Date   

Wind Vane Autopilot

Bernd Spanner
 
Edited

Hi!

I am looking for opinions and recommendations to make my SN independent of electricity in case of eg a lightning strike frying my electronics in the middle of the NAT or PAC.
Navigation is clear, revert to basics.
how about wind vane Auto Pilot for being elec independent 
yout thoughts, experiences and recommendations please.


--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Denis Foster
 

Hello,

what I understood is that these LiFePO4 batteries don’t like to be for days, weeks ...months at 100%SOC. Where the 50-60% is preferable for storage. A little of a few % charge once a month looks the ideal procedure.

It seems Ok to charge to 100% or 95% then start discharging like a typical live aboard cycle.

Am I correct?

On the brand debate, of course the Battle Born, Mastervolt etc.. Haven’t heard about Lithionics that comes with a smart dual channel BMS that distinguishes for shut off charge and discharge circuits.

An other concern is to be sure the BMS tolerate high discharges like a bow thruster < 2 minutes.

Thank s for your helpful thoughts.

Denis
ex Meltem 32


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Joerg Esdorn
 

A couple of points here.  Sure, the duration of the warranty ( 2 years) is not a guarantee that the batteries will hold up long enough to amortize the much higher cost vs. gels or   AGM.  However, the advice I received from the US dealer was in response to my inquiry to MV head office.  Head office forwarded my question to the US dealer since I had indicated that I lived in the US.  So this is in fact official advice, not advice from some installer.   If you think about it, the people who sail their boats less than full time must be in the 99% majority vs. live aboards who are off the grid all the time.  So given that demographic, a technology which does not solve the obvious issue of how to park your boat for the off periods is not going to go anywhere.  I simply don‘t believe that MV would risk its excellent reputation by putting out a product that self destructs after a few years of totally normal use.   For another reality check, I just put LiFePO4 batteries (KiloVault) on my solar system on my house.  There is no mention in the manual that they should be kept at less than 100% SOC.  Of course it is understood that they will be at 100% almost 100% of the time since the batteries are just for backup in case of a power outage.  

I am aware that Telsa‘s default charge is to 90%, not 100%.  But that’s not 80% as suggested here and most importantly, Telsa‘s batteries are a different chemistry from LiFePO4 so I‘m not putting much weight on the comparison.  

I hope this helps others.  Cheers Joerg

Joerg Esdorn
Amel 55 #53 Kincsem
Vigo, Spain


Re: Chesapeake Surveyor

sherman.gifford
 

Mike aiken at northwindyachtservice.com. he is in Deltaville a lot now and knows Amels well. Good luck - sherman gifford SM 291 Brevis 



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...>
Date: 9/19/20 7:27 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Chesapeake Surveyor

Looking for a surveyor in the vicinity of Deltaville, VA for an insurance valuation. Any suggestions.contact details?

Ian
SM153
Loca Lola II


Chesapeake Surveyor

Ian Townsend
 

Looking for a surveyor in the vicinity of Deltaville, VA for an insurance valuation. Any suggestions.contact details?

Ian
SM153
Loca Lola II


Re: Bilge Tube Float Switch

Ross Hickey & Donna Hammond
 

Merhuba,

See attached photo.

Hope you are enjoying Turkey

Kind regards
Ross and Donna
SV Intrepid Kiwi
Currently in Turkey

On Saturday, September 19, 2020, 9:36 am, Stefan Jeukendrup <sjeukendrup@...> wrote:

Hi Gary,

My bilge switch is an APEM On-Off switch with long toggle. Unfortunately the  631xxxx or 636xxxx number is no longer readable...
The number might be 631H/2-5 according to the datasheet on https://tr.farnell.com/apem/637h/toggle-switch-spdt-10a-250vac/dp/2888957


For the exact configuration please check the number on the switch that starts with 631..... and let us know.

The black nylon string is attached using polyolefin adhesive heat shrinkable tubing

Hope this helps you,


Stefan Jeukendrup
sv Malaka Queen
SM2k # 348 @Turkey


Re: Anchor sizing

ngtnewington Newington
 

There is an old rule of thumb. For every 9 to 10 ft of boat you need 1/8 inch of chain. So for a 53 ft boat that suggests say 5/8 of an inch chain. 

That rule of thumb was based on the old grade 30 chain. So it would be equivalent to 1/2 inch grade 40. This is the correct size grade 40 chain for a 53 ft sailing yacht. 

The MBL of 12mm galvanised grade 40 chain is 9.6 metric tons. 

The problem is we all want close to 100m of chain in the the locker and at least on my 54 it would not fit, it would also be pretty heavy in the bow. Just where you do not want it.

So most Amels cruise quite happily with 10mm chain, grade 40. This chain has a MBL of 6.7T. This is of course adequate and acceptable, but it certainly is not over engineering!!! It is what Amel specified.


I have chosen to upgrade to 10mm Grade 70 chain with a MBL of 11 Tons. It is slightly more expensive than grade 40 but twice as strong.

When thinking about the possible forces exerted on a yacht at anchor, it is not just the windage which is the surface area exposed to the wind and of course the square of the wind speed, but

there are sheering and snubbing shock loads to consider and also the action of waves. 

In addition we are all quite rightly moving towards these super high holding power anchors like the Ultra and the Spade, Mantus, Rocna etc. These anchors when well set do not budge even with several tons of load.

If anyone is interested there is a great web site coxeng.co.uk which is full of really useful technical information including tests of chain and connectors and shackles….formulas etc.

All the best 

Nick
S/Y Amelia AML 54-019

On 19 Sep 2020, at 01:28, Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

Hello Victor,

As you own an SM, a 10 mm chain is vastly sufficient.. even a G70 grade 8 mm chain is overkill.

There are 3 grades of chain G30 (lowest grade), G40 and G70.  G40  is the grade installed by Amel.  As a suggestion, we have a 35KG Ultra with 100 meters of G40 grade 10 MM chain.  (We have been aboard 24/7 since July 15 and it never dragged. There is an additional 50 meters of 3/4 inch nylon line attached to the chain.  In the Pacific, you will encounter anchorages where the water is 35 meters....

Weight is also a factor in the choice.  Good luck and enjoy your Amel.

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Opua, NZ




On 18 Sep 2020, at 21:50, VICTOR MOLERO <victor.moleroxx@...> wrote:


This is a very enriching thread. Thank you all for such valuable information. I am also about to change my 30 kg. Wasi for either a Mantus 48 kg. or an Ultra in my SM. But I see no one talking about the size of the chain (not the length). Do you recommend 10 mm or 12 mm. My first idea was going for a 12 mm. but I fear it might be too heavy on the bow. The other option is to keep my current 70 m. 10 mm. Inox chain with a 30 meters line.
Any comments about this will be more than welcome.
Thanks in advance.
Victor 
Alendoy SM#314


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Joe Sciarrino
 

Hi ! 
      I have had a similar issue , if your engine rpm doesn’t increase than it’s a simple cable adjustment , if you can increase your rpm on your engine but prop doesn’t spin , then you have drive train / sail drive  issue . Those are my thoughts . Sounds like a simple cable issue though , some times these things get bent . Best of luck . 
Joe Sciarrino 
Indigo


On Sep 18, 2020, at 8:09 AM, Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:



If the prop shaft alternator/ Vetus drive is increasing speed with revs then the issue is clearly after that. I have no experience of the mechanics of the C Drive, but I understand it is heftily engineered. 

l presume you have the original prop and my first guess would back up your idea that maybe the shaft key has failed so most of the idling grip is being produced by the propellor nut, but the extra torque is providing slippage. 

have you tried very gradually increasing speed forward to see if very gradual torque allows the nut to hold the friction. If you get some increase in speed then it would seem to be the prop slipping. 

good luck

ian
Ocean Hobo SN96


Re: Bilge Tube Float Switch

Stefan Jeukendrup
 

Hi Gary,

My bilge switch is an APEM On-Off switch with long toggle. Unfortunately the  631xxxx or 636xxxx number is no longer readable...
The number might be 631H/2-5 according to the datasheet on https://tr.farnell.com/apem/637h/toggle-switch-spdt-10a-250vac/dp/2888957


For the exact configuration please check the number on the switch that starts with 631..... and let us know.

The black nylon string is attached using polyolefin adhesive heat shrinkable tubing

Hope this helps you,


Stefan Jeukendrup
sv Malaka Queen
SM2k # 348 @Turkey


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Grant Starling
 

Thanks for all the responses gents...appreciated!

To answer all your suggestions.  It’s difficult to tell if I increase speed slowly whether it makes a difference.  It’s not obvious but I think it may do slightly.  At this point a prop-shaft key failure would be a good outcome, but somehow I doubt that is the issue....but until I can dive on it and test this by hand, I won’t not be able to tell for sure.  Though of course will need to do so.  To answer another question, I have the standard prop.  I did place my GoPro underwater and run the engine, and the prop does seem too increase in speed....though hard to tell if it’s slipping on camera.

Bad cable adjustment is what I thought lead to the first failure, hence me rebuilding the gearbox (Hurth HBW 250).  I definitely didn’t have this right when I initially installed the new control cables as I lost reverse due to it not engaging properly and had to adjust it again.  After that it worked fine for one outing and then I lost drive completely.  After that I figured out I had probably burnt out the clutch, stripped the box and rebuilt it with the official rebuild kit, new thrust washers, plates, shims, seals, and I bought and installed a new bearing kit at the same time for good measure.

So I fully expected everything to work perfectly after the install.  I carefully adjusted the cable this time to ensure proper engagement.  When I failed to get drive again, I completely took the cable off and shifted by hand, still nothing.

I feel I did a good job of the gearbox rebuild, measuring free-play and backslap, and installing the correct shims, thrust washers and components, so I am fairly confident it now isn’t the gearbox...but who knows?  Stumped...LOL.

I don’t think it is the c-drive, that is moving smoothly by hand as I think it should.  So it comes back to the prop or the gearbox.  I guess I’d better go and buy some dive gear and get down below on the prop!  BTW in England the water is not welcoming, so I will need a wetsuit...unlike some of you guys in those lovely warm waters down south!

G.


Bilge Tube Float Switch

Gary Wells
 

I know this was addressed before, but searching through the earlier posts I didn't run across the "answer" I was looking for.

 

This morning the bilge pump did not come on and while doing some laundry I got a high water alarm.  It only took a minute of troubleshooting to discover that the switch attached to the bilge tube float was dead.  Not a huge issue, just have to run the bilge pump manually whenever necessary ... which means keeping a close eye on it.

 

So, I don't have any pictures so will try hard to describe the assembly I have:  The switch looks to be a standard SPST (on/off) toggle that Amel (or a previous owner) has modified to have an extra long handle, or "bat".  The lengthening is accomplished with a sturdy piece of copper, apparently a tube, about 50cm long which is drilled on one end for the control strings and attached to the switch via a slip-fit which has been soldered or brazed into position.  At any rate, I could not get the "bat" apart from the switch.  

I did a lot of internet search and a couple of hours cruising Home Depot, the auto parts stores and Ace Hardware and couldn't really come up with anything I thought would be a viable solution.  There are automotive switches with longer toggles, maybe 25cm at most, but those toggles are plastic and I didn't think they would be as robust as the original.  I considered press-fitting a roll-pin over the "bat" of a standard switch and securing it with JB Weld.  That would likely be fine,but I'd have to figure a way to drill through the other end for the strings, the roll pins are mild steel so they'd rust quickly and they are heavier than the existing setup.

 

So, while I am asking if someone knows of a better solution/direct replacement (I have not written to Maud yet, wondering if anyone has already asked) I wanted to let everyone know that I solved the problem, at least temporarily, by actually disassembling the existing switch itself and scraping/cleaning the contact points.  The switch came apart with a pocket knife and some care and there was really only one moving part inside it.  Once it was cleaned and reassembled it functioned just fine. 

 

OK, that's today's essay on "the little things" aboard Adagio. 

 

Be safe!

 

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio

Galesville, MD

 

 


Re: Anchor sizing

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Victor,

As you own an SM, a 10 mm chain is vastly sufficient.. even a G70 grade 8 mm chain is overkill.

There are 3 grades of chain G30 (lowest grade), G40 and G70.  G40  is the grade installed by Amel.  As a suggestion, we have a 35KG Ultra with 100 meters of G40 grade 10 MM chain.  (We have been aboard 24/7 since July 15 and it never dragged. There is an additional 50 meters of 3/4 inch nylon line attached to the chain.  In the Pacific, you will encounter anchorages where the water is 35 meters....

Weight is also a factor in the choice.  Good luck and enjoy your Amel.

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Opua, NZ




On 18 Sep 2020, at 21:50, VICTOR MOLERO <victor.moleroxx@...> wrote:


This is a very enriching thread. Thank you all for such valuable information. I am also about to change my 30 kg. Wasi for either a Mantus 48 kg. or an Ultra in my SM. But I see no one talking about the size of the chain (not the length). Do you recommend 10 mm or 12 mm. My first idea was going for a 12 mm. but I fear it might be too heavy on the bow. The other option is to keep my current 70 m. 10 mm. Inox chain with a 30 meters line.
Any comments about this will be more than welcome.
Thanks in advance.
Victor 
Alendoy SM#314


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Dennis Johns
 

Your Santorin has a different gearbox than my Maramu but I know when I had my clutches replaced the mechanic was very careful in making sure the thrust washer was the proper thickness.  He actually took the time to fabricate one in his shop.  Do you know if the thrust washer was replaced?

Dennis Johns
Libertad
Maramu 121

On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 7:52 AM Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Just guessing, but have you tried totally disconnecting the cable from the transmission shift lever and shifting it by hand, thus absolutely eliminating adjustment as even a remote possibility?
Also, you say you can see the prop spinning with your GoPro - can you also observe the prop spinning faster when you accelerate (as you have observed the C-drive spinning faster when you accelerate? That might isolate your diagnosis.
Keep us posted on this intriguing mystery!
Ctaig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Porter McRoberts
 

Not that I’ve got lithium’s, but will hopefully at some point. Why not ask the battery manufacturer how to park the batteries?  Surely they have a recommendation?  Interesting thread. Thanks. 
Porter

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Sep 18, 2020, at 6:29 AM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:



In addition, in general, what good is a “warranty” if you are in several years 500NM to 5000Nm away from the “installer”. I have had problems getting people to back up their warranty while still being in the same location; they promise to come on board and don’t show up etc. etc.

Likely a reputable manufacturer will blame/question the installer and if not a factory affiliated installer you are “up the creek” in the “blaming game”.

 

Although not boat related, I am currently in something similar between a truly first rate USA insurance company and the official ASTON MARTIN dealer; both holding their grounds but I am stuck in the middle.

 

Best Regards Teun

 

A54 2009 #128

September 18, 2020 09:28:26

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arno Luijten via groups.io
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 09:13
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

 

Hi Joerg,

I don't want to annoy you but how long is the warranty on your installation? This whole "do leave the batteries at 100% for extended periods" is to preserve the batteries in 5-8 years time, not next year. So unless you get 10 years of warranty for more then 80% of the original capacity, they can say whatever they want.
My point is that I have a hard time believing these batteries will last for such a long time. And even Tesla with their 8 year warranty tells you to refrain from keeping the batteries at 100% SOC. They do have some experience in this field, more then Mastervolt for sure.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Teun BAAS
 

In addition, in general, what good is a “warranty” if you are in several years 500NM to 5000Nm away from the “installer”. I have had problems getting people to back up their warranty while still being in the same location; they promise to come on board and don’t show up etc. etc.

Likely a reputable manufacturer will blame/question the installer and if not a factory affiliated installer you are “up the creek” in the “blaming game”.

 

Although not boat related, I am currently in something similar between a truly first rate USA insurance company and the official ASTON MARTIN dealer; both holding their grounds but I am stuck in the middle.

 

Best Regards Teun

 

A54 2009 #128

September 18, 2020 09:28:26

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arno Luijten via groups.io
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 09:13
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

 

Hi Joerg,

I don't want to annoy you but how long is the warranty on your installation? This whole "do leave the batteries at 100% for extended periods" is to preserve the batteries in 5-8 years time, not next year. So unless you get 10 years of warranty for more then 80% of the original capacity, they can say whatever they want.
My point is that I have a hard time believing these batteries will last for such a long time. And even Tesla with their 8 year warranty tells you to refrain from keeping the batteries at 100% SOC. They do have some experience in this field, more then Mastervolt for sure.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Joerg,

I don't want to annoy you but how long is the warranty on your installation? This whole "do leave the batteries at 100% for extended periods" is to preserve the batteries in 5-8 years time, not next year. So unless you get 10 years of warranty for more then 80% of the original capacity, they can say whatever they want.
My point is that I have a hard time believing these batteries will last for such a long time. And even Tesla with their 8 year warranty tells you to refrain from keeping the batteries at 100% SOC. They do have some experience in this field, more then Mastervolt for sure.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Joerg Esdorn
 

Following up on my post further up this chain:  I received word back from Mastervolt tech support whether it is safe to leave the boat plugged into shore support and connected to the Mastervolt smart charger.   The response came both from Spain and the US:  yes, no problem leaving the boat plugged in.  The Spanish MV technician recommended turning off the charger once a month and putting a load on the battery (i.e. turn on some electrical loads) for 30-45 minutes and then reconnect the charger.   Since the Spanish dealer has also certified the installation, I will not worry too much about running the batteries at 100%.   

Joerg Esdorn
A55 #53 Kincsem
Vigo, Spain


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Craig Briggs
 

Just guessing, but have you tried totally disconnecting the cable from the transmission shift lever and shifting it by hand, thus absolutely eliminating adjustment as even a remote possibility?
Also, you say you can see the prop spinning with your GoPro - can you also observe the prop spinning faster when you accelerate (as you have observed the C-drive spinning faster when you accelerate? That might isolate your diagnosis.
Keep us posted on this intriguing mystery!
Ctaig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Winterizing my SM2 up on the hard

Patrick McAneny
 

Dave, Unfortunately I have had to winterize my boats over the last 40 years more times than I would like. All I do is :
Have at least seven or so  gallons of marine engine antifreeze in my engine room ,open and ready to pour.
Start the main engine allow it to warm up, take the strainer cap off ,close the raw water intake sea cock ,as soon  as the water level goes down start pouring in the antifreeze as fast as possible and be ready with the next gallon and so on ,keep the level up as high as possible.
Have a helper look over the side and watch the exhaust ,when  the exhaust is solid pink or purple ,shut the engine off .
Do the same for the generator .
Use potable antifreeze take supply hose off of the pumps ,or use another length of hose from the pump to place into the bottom of gallons of antifreeze turn on the water pump and have someone open every faucet in the boat one at a time , hot and cold side until it is pink . 
Don't forget showers and the cockpit shower.
I  drain my water heater and connect the fresh water inlet to the outlet  so that the hot water side of each faucet is also pink and protected . If you don't connect the inlet and outlet of the hot water heater and drain it , than you would need to pump a large amount of antifreeze into the system because it would be diluted by the residual water in the water heater.
I also pump some antifreeze thru the toilets .
Hope this helps,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: David Kurtz via groups.io <Davidwkurtz@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Sep 18, 2020 7:25 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Winterizing my SM2 up on the hard

I’m pulling Celtic Cross up on the hard this winter here in Michigan (42 degrees 32 minutes north) and I’d like to know what others have done with their seawater system in freezing climates.  I talked with EchoTec on my watermaker and they recommended pickling with some food-grade glycol to preserve the membranes.  The freshwater system gets drained so I can clean the holding tank.  However, the seawater system is complex.  I’ve got heat exchangers on the main engine, generator, and three heat pumps.  Plus the two heads.  Anyone have recommendations?
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross
Detroit, Michigan


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Brent Cameron
 

I had a similar issue with my old Yanmar. Like you, it happened after I noticed that the shift cable was binding and I had replaced it. I initially had no issues but got stuck out from the marina sand had to sail it in to my slip with no drive one evening. After some diagnosis, I found I had reverse but not forward.  I then (with the engine off) put the transmission in forward and swam down and I could spin the prop. Did the same in reverse and couldn’t budge it. For me it was a clutch plate, one side was completely worn off so the metal clutch rotor disk was spinning on the clutch wear surface.   I replaced the clutch disk and noticed that when I replaced the cable, I had somehow buggered up the adjustment so that it wasn’t fully engaged in forward and was slipping slightly under load. The manuals were completely unhelpful but I adjusted the cable so I couldn’t budge it by turning the prop in forward or reverse and it was still turning completely freely in neutral. The difference was measured in fractions of a turn on the cable adjustment. I suspect you have the same issue and you will go through another clutch soon if you don’t find it.   Of course if it is the key, you will likely be able to turn it in either direction when engaged in forward or reverse. I haven’t ever seen a key sliced in two though. Do you have a folding prop?  Could it be that it isn’t swing out?  

Brent

On Sep 18, 2020, 7:34 AM -0400, Grant Starling via groups.io , wrote:
I have lost drive on my Santorin.  It started when I replaced the morse throttle/gear selector and at first I thought it was bad cable adjustment meaning my gearbox clutch not engaging properly.  

Basically the problem is as follows.  I start the engine, select gear, when I apply power to accelerate, there is no increase in thrust from the propellor beyond that which I get idling in gear.  So I can move the boat around at idling speed in forward revers, but no thrust or increase in motion even at full revs.

So after adjusting the cable to ensure proper adjustment and still getting no joy, I looked secondly to the gearbox clutch as being the issue.  I thought at 30 years old its probably slipping and needed replacement.  So I rebuilt the gearbox with brand new clutch, bearings and seals.

Reinstalled it this morning.  Same problem is still there.....no drive.

The c-drive seems to be spinning up fine when I increase throttle, it increases in speed.  I can turn the c-drive by hand and it seem smooth and turns easy.  Put my GoPro on a pole and checked the propellor under-water, just to check there was no debris on it....it seems to be spinning fine.

So short of the propellor slipping on the prop-shaft, I am out of ideas?  

Has anyone had a similar issue?  What are the chances of the prop shearing it’s key and spinning on the shaft?  Sincerely hope this isn’t a c-drive issue....best Grant 

--
Brent Cameron

Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator

Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada

2461 - 2480 of 56782