Date   

deck leak

Miles
 

Deck leak.

Hello All,

My boat has developed a small deck leak over the chart table.  So far it is small and is visible only by looking at the slight bubbling and dampness in the head liner.  I suspect the main traveler track, but I am hoping that someone else has had a similar problem and can offer suggestions. 
Miles
Ladybug  sm216  Newport, RI 


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Mark McGovern
 
Edited

Porter,

That's part of the issue.  If you read each manufacturers instructions for how to store their LiFePO4 batteries you will get very different answers.  There is some level of commonality between some of them, but the specific recommendations are quite different from manufacturer to manufacturer.  See below for the details. 
Given that these batteries are all made from cells of the same chemistry (LiFePO4) and, in some cases, possibly the same exact cell manufacturer, that just doesn't make sense to me.  There should be one "best way" to store these batteries.  My conclusions from this lack of consensus seven or eight years into selling these batteries commercially are:

1.  The battery manufacturers don't really know for sure what the best storage method is

and

2.  The storage method does not affect the longevity/capacity of the batteries significantly enough to warrant investing the time and resources to figure it out

I am not stating that storage method does not affect the longevity/capacity of LiFePO4 batteries.  I actually believe that it does based on the reading and research that I have done.  But what I am saying is that if storage method was significantly affecting the manufacturers warranty costs and/or reputation, I believe that they would have figured that out by now and they would all have very similar recommendations for how to best store these batteries.  

Contrast this complete lack of consensus on storage method to the manufacturers recommended/built-in Low Voltage Cutoffs and High Voltage Cutoffs.  It is accepted fact that over-charging (voltage too high) and over-discharging (voltage too low) is what kills LiFePO4 batteries prematurely.  Every LiFePO4 battery manufacturer that I have researched has set a High Voltage Cutoff at 3.75-3.90 volts per cell and Low Voltage Cutoff at 2.5-2.8 volts per cell. While they are not exactly the same voltages, they are all based on a defined voltage level and they all are within the consensus "acceptable" voltage of 2.5 to 4.0 volts per cell for LiFePO4.

As I stated earlier in this thread, I've only seen one person actually experiment on what happens to LiFePO4 batteries when stored at a high SOC% (link referenced earlier in this thread).  The two experiments he conducted showed a permanent capacity loss of 4-12%.  This was after leaving LiFePO4 cells that were charged to 100% SOC and then left alone for about 12-13 months with no charging or discharging during that time.  To me, 4-12% is not a huge loss of capacity given how long the batteries were completely neglected.  After all, most of us would never leave our boats unattended for 12-13 months at a time (at least on purpose).  And most notably, that capacity loss is well below any threshold that I have seen where a manufacturer would have to replace the battery under warranty.


If anyone is interested in the details on the various LiFePO4 manufacturers storage recommendations, below are some links and "copied and pasted" excerpts from some of the better known LiFePO4 battery manufacturers for your reference.  I've bolded and italicized some of the more pertinent information:  

Battle Born:  https://battlebornbatteries.com/faq/

The storage temperature range is -10°F to 140°F (-23°C to 60°C). We recommend bringing the Battle Born Batteries to a 100% charge and then disconnecting them completely for storage. After six months in storage your batteries will remain 75 – 80% charged. 

Victron:  https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Manual-Lithium-iron-phosphate-batteries-Smart-EN-NL-FR-DE-ES-IT.pdf

Recommended storage/float voltage: 13,5V resp. 27V per battery. Batteries must be regularly (at least once every month) charged to 14V (max. 14,4V) in order to fully balance the cells. Two or four batteries in series should be charged regularly to 28V resp. 56V.

MasterVolt:  https://images.mastervolt.nl/files/10000015396_14_manualMLIUltra27505500_EN.pdf

The battery should be stored in a dry and well-ventilated environment. The rate of self-discharge is less than 5% per month. High or low ambient temperature affects the self-discharge rate of the batteries and natural aging. If the battery will not be used for a period exceeding 3 months, we advise the following:

If external AC power is available switch off all loads and switch on the charger. Apply a float voltage as specified in the following table.
Model - Float voltage setting
12V - 13.5V 
24V - 27.0V

If no external AC power is available: - Charge the battery to > 80% of its capacity before storage. - Set the safety relay knob to “LOCK OFF”, see page 12. - Make sure MasterBus powering is not set to "Always on" (see Configuration tab in MasterAdjust). In this setup the batteries can be kept at least 6 months without maintenance. However, it is highly recommended to charge the battery to > 80% of its capacity every 100 days.

RELiON:  https://ceb8596f236225acd007-8e95328c173a04ed694af83ee4e24c15.ssl.cf5.rackcdn.com/docs/product/RelionInstallationManual-8.5x5.5-081720.pdf

5. BATTERY STORAGE

5.1. Storage Temperature LiFePO4 can be stored between 23 to 95°F (-5 to 35°C). For storage longer than 3 months, the recommended temperature range is from 32 to 77°F (25 to 40°C).

5.2. Storage Conditions It is recommended to store LiFePO4 batteries at 50% state of charge (SOC). If batteries are stored for long periods of time, cycle the batteries at least every 6 months.

Lithionics:  https://lithionicsbattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Lithionics-Battery-Storage-Procedure.pdf

Storing your battery at the correct specifications is important as it keeps the battery in the healthiest state possible for the fastest deployment when needed. Consult the table below for proper storage conditions.

Typical storage scenario < 3 months:
1. Fully charge the battery.
2. Turn the battery OFF by the On/Off/Storage switch.
3. Keep the battery in an environment according to the specifications shown above.

Typical storage scenario > 3 months:
1. Reduce the battery SOC to 3.3V/cell which is 50% ±10% SOC. Note: See chart below for cell voltage calculation.
2. Turn the battery OFF via the On/Off/Storage switch.
3. Keep the battery in an environment according to the specifications shown above.
4. Every 6 months charge the battery to 100% SOC, then discharge the battery to LVC, then charge it back to 50% ±10% SOC. 


Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Steve Bell
 

There is an interesting detailed article on www.marinehowto.com website on lithium batteries. check it out


Re: Additional filter in raw water intake for the engine before the heat exchanger

Randall Walker
 

Joerg,
Good point. There should be two flushing attachment points on the engine, one just after the water pump and one before the exhaust so you can run a flush, with a barnacle slash calcium cleaning solution there are many brands. I recently rigged up a system to do just this. It should be standard on all ocean boats.

Randall
A54#56
Gibraltar

On Sat, Sep 19, 2020 at 4:49 PM Joerg Esdorn via groups.io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
It has been a surprise to me how much seaweed and other dirt accumulates in the heat exchanger for the gear box even though there is a strainer at the intake point.  Amel recommends that the heat exchanger be cleaned out yearly and it‘s definitely necessary.   I checked the manual for my Volvo D3-110 engine and it says the following on page 104:

„Volvo Penta recommends that a seawater filter be fit- ted to guarantee the correct cooling water flow to the engine and reverse gear. Otherwise there is a risk of contaminants in the seawater blocking the reverse gear cooler and other cooling system components.“ I read this to suggest that there should be a second filter in the engine intake line after the main intake strainer and before the heat exchanger.  I wonder why Amel isn‘t doing that and if anyone has done so.  Cleaning out the heat exchanger is a difficult task, cleaning out a second filter would be a simple thing to do on a regular basis.       

Joerg Esdorn
Amel 55 #53 Kincsem
Vigo, Spain


Additional filter in raw water intake for the engine before the heat exchanger

Joerg Esdorn
 

It has been a surprise to me how much seaweed and other dirt accumulates in the heat exchanger for the gear box even though there is a strainer at the intake point.  Amel recommends that the heat exchanger be cleaned out yearly and it‘s definitely necessary.   I checked the manual for my Volvo D3-110 engine and it says the following on page 104:

„Volvo Penta recommends that a seawater filter be fit- ted to guarantee the correct cooling water flow to the engine and reverse gear. Otherwise there is a risk of contaminants in the seawater blocking the reverse gear cooler and other cooling system components.“ I read this to suggest that there should be a second filter in the engine intake line after the main intake strainer and before the heat exchanger.  I wonder why Amel isn‘t doing that and if anyone has done so.  Cleaning out the heat exchanger is a difficult task, cleaning out a second filter would be a simple thing to do on a regular basis.       

Joerg Esdorn
Amel 55 #53 Kincsem
Vigo, Spain


Wind Vane Autopilot

Bernd Spanner
 
Edited

Hi!

I am looking for opinions and recommendations to make my SN independent of electricity in case of eg a lightning strike frying my electronics in the middle of the NAT or PAC.
Navigation is clear, revert to basics.
how about wind vane Auto Pilot for being elec independent 
yout thoughts, experiences and recommendations please.


--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Denis Foster
 

Hello,

what I understood is that these LiFePO4 batteries don’t like to be for days, weeks ...months at 100%SOC. Where the 50-60% is preferable for storage. A little of a few % charge once a month looks the ideal procedure.

It seems Ok to charge to 100% or 95% then start discharging like a typical live aboard cycle.

Am I correct?

On the brand debate, of course the Battle Born, Mastervolt etc.. Haven’t heard about Lithionics that comes with a smart dual channel BMS that distinguishes for shut off charge and discharge circuits.

An other concern is to be sure the BMS tolerate high discharges like a bow thruster < 2 minutes.

Thank s for your helpful thoughts.

Denis
ex Meltem 32


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Joerg Esdorn
 

A couple of points here.  Sure, the duration of the warranty ( 2 years) is not a guarantee that the batteries will hold up long enough to amortize the much higher cost vs. gels or   AGM.  However, the advice I received from the US dealer was in response to my inquiry to MV head office.  Head office forwarded my question to the US dealer since I had indicated that I lived in the US.  So this is in fact official advice, not advice from some installer.   If you think about it, the people who sail their boats less than full time must be in the 99% majority vs. live aboards who are off the grid all the time.  So given that demographic, a technology which does not solve the obvious issue of how to park your boat for the off periods is not going to go anywhere.  I simply don‘t believe that MV would risk its excellent reputation by putting out a product that self destructs after a few years of totally normal use.   For another reality check, I just put LiFePO4 batteries (KiloVault) on my solar system on my house.  There is no mention in the manual that they should be kept at less than 100% SOC.  Of course it is understood that they will be at 100% almost 100% of the time since the batteries are just for backup in case of a power outage.  

I am aware that Telsa‘s default charge is to 90%, not 100%.  But that’s not 80% as suggested here and most importantly, Telsa‘s batteries are a different chemistry from LiFePO4 so I‘m not putting much weight on the comparison.  

I hope this helps others.  Cheers Joerg

Joerg Esdorn
Amel 55 #53 Kincsem
Vigo, Spain


Re: Chesapeake Surveyor

sherman.gifford
 

Mike aiken at northwindyachtservice.com. he is in Deltaville a lot now and knows Amels well. Good luck - sherman gifford SM 291 Brevis 



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...>
Date: 9/19/20 7:27 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Chesapeake Surveyor

Looking for a surveyor in the vicinity of Deltaville, VA for an insurance valuation. Any suggestions.contact details?

Ian
SM153
Loca Lola II


Chesapeake Surveyor

Ian Townsend
 

Looking for a surveyor in the vicinity of Deltaville, VA for an insurance valuation. Any suggestions.contact details?

Ian
SM153
Loca Lola II


Re: Bilge Tube Float Switch

Ross Hickey & Donna Hammond
 

Merhuba,

See attached photo.

Hope you are enjoying Turkey

Kind regards
Ross and Donna
SV Intrepid Kiwi
Currently in Turkey

On Saturday, September 19, 2020, 9:36 am, Stefan Jeukendrup <sjeukendrup@...> wrote:

Hi Gary,

My bilge switch is an APEM On-Off switch with long toggle. Unfortunately the  631xxxx or 636xxxx number is no longer readable...
The number might be 631H/2-5 according to the datasheet on https://tr.farnell.com/apem/637h/toggle-switch-spdt-10a-250vac/dp/2888957


For the exact configuration please check the number on the switch that starts with 631..... and let us know.

The black nylon string is attached using polyolefin adhesive heat shrinkable tubing

Hope this helps you,


Stefan Jeukendrup
sv Malaka Queen
SM2k # 348 @Turkey


Re: Anchor sizing

ngtnewington Newington
 

There is an old rule of thumb. For every 9 to 10 ft of boat you need 1/8 inch of chain. So for a 53 ft boat that suggests say 5/8 of an inch chain. 

That rule of thumb was based on the old grade 30 chain. So it would be equivalent to 1/2 inch grade 40. This is the correct size grade 40 chain for a 53 ft sailing yacht. 

The MBL of 12mm galvanised grade 40 chain is 9.6 metric tons. 

The problem is we all want close to 100m of chain in the the locker and at least on my 54 it would not fit, it would also be pretty heavy in the bow. Just where you do not want it.

So most Amels cruise quite happily with 10mm chain, grade 40. This chain has a MBL of 6.7T. This is of course adequate and acceptable, but it certainly is not over engineering!!! It is what Amel specified.


I have chosen to upgrade to 10mm Grade 70 chain with a MBL of 11 Tons. It is slightly more expensive than grade 40 but twice as strong.

When thinking about the possible forces exerted on a yacht at anchor, it is not just the windage which is the surface area exposed to the wind and of course the square of the wind speed, but

there are sheering and snubbing shock loads to consider and also the action of waves. 

In addition we are all quite rightly moving towards these super high holding power anchors like the Ultra and the Spade, Mantus, Rocna etc. These anchors when well set do not budge even with several tons of load.

If anyone is interested there is a great web site coxeng.co.uk which is full of really useful technical information including tests of chain and connectors and shackles….formulas etc.

All the best 

Nick
S/Y Amelia AML 54-019

On 19 Sep 2020, at 01:28, Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

Hello Victor,

As you own an SM, a 10 mm chain is vastly sufficient.. even a G70 grade 8 mm chain is overkill.

There are 3 grades of chain G30 (lowest grade), G40 and G70.  G40  is the grade installed by Amel.  As a suggestion, we have a 35KG Ultra with 100 meters of G40 grade 10 MM chain.  (We have been aboard 24/7 since July 15 and it never dragged. There is an additional 50 meters of 3/4 inch nylon line attached to the chain.  In the Pacific, you will encounter anchorages where the water is 35 meters....

Weight is also a factor in the choice.  Good luck and enjoy your Amel.

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Opua, NZ




On 18 Sep 2020, at 21:50, VICTOR MOLERO <victor.moleroxx@...> wrote:


This is a very enriching thread. Thank you all for such valuable information. I am also about to change my 30 kg. Wasi for either a Mantus 48 kg. or an Ultra in my SM. But I see no one talking about the size of the chain (not the length). Do you recommend 10 mm or 12 mm. My first idea was going for a 12 mm. but I fear it might be too heavy on the bow. The other option is to keep my current 70 m. 10 mm. Inox chain with a 30 meters line.
Any comments about this will be more than welcome.
Thanks in advance.
Victor 
Alendoy SM#314


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Joe Sciarrino
 

Hi ! 
      I have had a similar issue , if your engine rpm doesn’t increase than it’s a simple cable adjustment , if you can increase your rpm on your engine but prop doesn’t spin , then you have drive train / sail drive  issue . Those are my thoughts . Sounds like a simple cable issue though , some times these things get bent . Best of luck . 
Joe Sciarrino 
Indigo


On Sep 18, 2020, at 8:09 AM, Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:



If the prop shaft alternator/ Vetus drive is increasing speed with revs then the issue is clearly after that. I have no experience of the mechanics of the C Drive, but I understand it is heftily engineered. 

l presume you have the original prop and my first guess would back up your idea that maybe the shaft key has failed so most of the idling grip is being produced by the propellor nut, but the extra torque is providing slippage. 

have you tried very gradually increasing speed forward to see if very gradual torque allows the nut to hold the friction. If you get some increase in speed then it would seem to be the prop slipping. 

good luck

ian
Ocean Hobo SN96


Re: Bilge Tube Float Switch

Stefan Jeukendrup
 

Hi Gary,

My bilge switch is an APEM On-Off switch with long toggle. Unfortunately the  631xxxx or 636xxxx number is no longer readable...
The number might be 631H/2-5 according to the datasheet on https://tr.farnell.com/apem/637h/toggle-switch-spdt-10a-250vac/dp/2888957


For the exact configuration please check the number on the switch that starts with 631..... and let us know.

The black nylon string is attached using polyolefin adhesive heat shrinkable tubing

Hope this helps you,


Stefan Jeukendrup
sv Malaka Queen
SM2k # 348 @Turkey


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Grant Starling
 

Thanks for all the responses gents...appreciated!

To answer all your suggestions.  It’s difficult to tell if I increase speed slowly whether it makes a difference.  It’s not obvious but I think it may do slightly.  At this point a prop-shaft key failure would be a good outcome, but somehow I doubt that is the issue....but until I can dive on it and test this by hand, I won’t not be able to tell for sure.  Though of course will need to do so.  To answer another question, I have the standard prop.  I did place my GoPro underwater and run the engine, and the prop does seem too increase in speed....though hard to tell if it’s slipping on camera.

Bad cable adjustment is what I thought lead to the first failure, hence me rebuilding the gearbox (Hurth HBW 250).  I definitely didn’t have this right when I initially installed the new control cables as I lost reverse due to it not engaging properly and had to adjust it again.  After that it worked fine for one outing and then I lost drive completely.  After that I figured out I had probably burnt out the clutch, stripped the box and rebuilt it with the official rebuild kit, new thrust washers, plates, shims, seals, and I bought and installed a new bearing kit at the same time for good measure.

So I fully expected everything to work perfectly after the install.  I carefully adjusted the cable this time to ensure proper engagement.  When I failed to get drive again, I completely took the cable off and shifted by hand, still nothing.

I feel I did a good job of the gearbox rebuild, measuring free-play and backslap, and installing the correct shims, thrust washers and components, so I am fairly confident it now isn’t the gearbox...but who knows?  Stumped...LOL.

I don’t think it is the c-drive, that is moving smoothly by hand as I think it should.  So it comes back to the prop or the gearbox.  I guess I’d better go and buy some dive gear and get down below on the prop!  BTW in England the water is not welcoming, so I will need a wetsuit...unlike some of you guys in those lovely warm waters down south!

G.


Bilge Tube Float Switch

Gary Wells
 

I know this was addressed before, but searching through the earlier posts I didn't run across the "answer" I was looking for.

 

This morning the bilge pump did not come on and while doing some laundry I got a high water alarm.  It only took a minute of troubleshooting to discover that the switch attached to the bilge tube float was dead.  Not a huge issue, just have to run the bilge pump manually whenever necessary ... which means keeping a close eye on it.

 

So, I don't have any pictures so will try hard to describe the assembly I have:  The switch looks to be a standard SPST (on/off) toggle that Amel (or a previous owner) has modified to have an extra long handle, or "bat".  The lengthening is accomplished with a sturdy piece of copper, apparently a tube, about 50cm long which is drilled on one end for the control strings and attached to the switch via a slip-fit which has been soldered or brazed into position.  At any rate, I could not get the "bat" apart from the switch.  

I did a lot of internet search and a couple of hours cruising Home Depot, the auto parts stores and Ace Hardware and couldn't really come up with anything I thought would be a viable solution.  There are automotive switches with longer toggles, maybe 25cm at most, but those toggles are plastic and I didn't think they would be as robust as the original.  I considered press-fitting a roll-pin over the "bat" of a standard switch and securing it with JB Weld.  That would likely be fine,but I'd have to figure a way to drill through the other end for the strings, the roll pins are mild steel so they'd rust quickly and they are heavier than the existing setup.

 

So, while I am asking if someone knows of a better solution/direct replacement (I have not written to Maud yet, wondering if anyone has already asked) I wanted to let everyone know that I solved the problem, at least temporarily, by actually disassembling the existing switch itself and scraping/cleaning the contact points.  The switch came apart with a pocket knife and some care and there was really only one moving part inside it.  Once it was cleaned and reassembled it functioned just fine. 

 

OK, that's today's essay on "the little things" aboard Adagio. 

 

Be safe!

 

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio

Galesville, MD

 

 


Re: Anchor sizing

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Victor,

As you own an SM, a 10 mm chain is vastly sufficient.. even a G70 grade 8 mm chain is overkill.

There are 3 grades of chain G30 (lowest grade), G40 and G70.  G40  is the grade installed by Amel.  As a suggestion, we have a 35KG Ultra with 100 meters of G40 grade 10 MM chain.  (We have been aboard 24/7 since July 15 and it never dragged. There is an additional 50 meters of 3/4 inch nylon line attached to the chain.  In the Pacific, you will encounter anchorages where the water is 35 meters....

Weight is also a factor in the choice.  Good luck and enjoy your Amel.

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Opua, NZ




On 18 Sep 2020, at 21:50, VICTOR MOLERO <victor.moleroxx@...> wrote:


This is a very enriching thread. Thank you all for such valuable information. I am also about to change my 30 kg. Wasi for either a Mantus 48 kg. or an Ultra in my SM. But I see no one talking about the size of the chain (not the length). Do you recommend 10 mm or 12 mm. My first idea was going for a 12 mm. but I fear it might be too heavy on the bow. The other option is to keep my current 70 m. 10 mm. Inox chain with a 30 meters line.
Any comments about this will be more than welcome.
Thanks in advance.
Victor 
Alendoy SM#314


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Dennis Johns
 

Your Santorin has a different gearbox than my Maramu but I know when I had my clutches replaced the mechanic was very careful in making sure the thrust washer was the proper thickness.  He actually took the time to fabricate one in his shop.  Do you know if the thrust washer was replaced?

Dennis Johns
Libertad
Maramu 121

On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 7:52 AM Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Just guessing, but have you tried totally disconnecting the cable from the transmission shift lever and shifting it by hand, thus absolutely eliminating adjustment as even a remote possibility?
Also, you say you can see the prop spinning with your GoPro - can you also observe the prop spinning faster when you accelerate (as you have observed the C-drive spinning faster when you accelerate? That might isolate your diagnosis.
Keep us posted on this intriguing mystery!
Ctaig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Porter McRoberts
 

Not that I’ve got lithium’s, but will hopefully at some point. Why not ask the battery manufacturer how to park the batteries?  Surely they have a recommendation?  Interesting thread. Thanks. 
Porter

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Sep 18, 2020, at 6:29 AM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:



In addition, in general, what good is a “warranty” if you are in several years 500NM to 5000Nm away from the “installer”. I have had problems getting people to back up their warranty while still being in the same location; they promise to come on board and don’t show up etc. etc.

Likely a reputable manufacturer will blame/question the installer and if not a factory affiliated installer you are “up the creek” in the “blaming game”.

 

Although not boat related, I am currently in something similar between a truly first rate USA insurance company and the official ASTON MARTIN dealer; both holding their grounds but I am stuck in the middle.

 

Best Regards Teun

 

A54 2009 #128

September 18, 2020 09:28:26

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arno Luijten via groups.io
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 09:13
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

 

Hi Joerg,

I don't want to annoy you but how long is the warranty on your installation? This whole "do leave the batteries at 100% for extended periods" is to preserve the batteries in 5-8 years time, not next year. So unless you get 10 years of warranty for more then 80% of the original capacity, they can say whatever they want.
My point is that I have a hard time believing these batteries will last for such a long time. And even Tesla with their 8 year warranty tells you to refrain from keeping the batteries at 100% SOC. They do have some experience in this field, more then Mastervolt for sure.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Teun BAAS
 

In addition, in general, what good is a “warranty” if you are in several years 500NM to 5000Nm away from the “installer”. I have had problems getting people to back up their warranty while still being in the same location; they promise to come on board and don’t show up etc. etc.

Likely a reputable manufacturer will blame/question the installer and if not a factory affiliated installer you are “up the creek” in the “blaming game”.

 

Although not boat related, I am currently in something similar between a truly first rate USA insurance company and the official ASTON MARTIN dealer; both holding their grounds but I am stuck in the middle.

 

Best Regards Teun

 

A54 2009 #128

September 18, 2020 09:28:26

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arno Luijten via groups.io
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 09:13
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

 

Hi Joerg,

I don't want to annoy you but how long is the warranty on your installation? This whole "do leave the batteries at 100% for extended periods" is to preserve the batteries in 5-8 years time, not next year. So unless you get 10 years of warranty for more then 80% of the original capacity, they can say whatever they want.
My point is that I have a hard time believing these batteries will last for such a long time. And even Tesla with their 8 year warranty tells you to refrain from keeping the batteries at 100% SOC. They do have some experience in this field, more then Mastervolt for sure.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

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