Date   

Re: Bowthruster motor switch

Peter Tiner
 

Yes you are right we did use a thick-walled pipe to put pressure onto the pipe instead of the driveshaft. Think the pipe wall thickness was something like 3mm.

Attaching pics again as I think they came in ios-format.

\Peter sy Maiken A54 #52


 


Re: Manual Bilge Pump

Mark Pitt
 

Hi Guillaume,

   It is a Whale Henderson Mark V manual bilge pump.  As you are in Greece, the best place to buy a repair kit is SVB in Germany.  They have an English language site and inexpensive shipping.  The repair kit is listed here:

https://www.svb24.com/en/whale-repair-kit-for-henderson-mk-5-pump.html

Mark Pitt

Sabbatical III, SM419, Rhode Island, USA


On 9/21/2020 8:41 AM, Cathy & Guillaume via groups.io wrote:
Recently, as we have been using the manual bilge pump quite a lot due to a problem on the AMFA electric pump, I noticed a leak on that pump, and getting worse. Grey water coming from the ceiling of the engine room...! Has anyone had that pump leak? What is the brand/model (Henderson, Whale,?) and any idea where to find spare parts or replacement?

Many thanks in advance!

Guillaume
Carpathia III, SM2K #293
Now in Athens 


Re: Wind Vane Autopilot

smiles bernard
 

Hi there

Some  thoughts on this based on my experience/preference
We crossed the N Atlantic E to W recently in our mid 80s Maramu without a windvane
It was my first longish offshore trip without vane steering & really brought home to me how much i value having one 
as soon as we got the the Carib we ordered and installed a Hydrovane 
I've been on different boats with different vane gears but i like the hydrovane best of all due to the fact that it provides a separate steering system 
That sits well with me - i like a level of redundancy on important systems on a boat , if at all possible
Especially wrt steering  as I sail with a young family and hand steering for days on end would be very tough on the crew ;)

SM have that redundancy built in i think from the start with their 2 * electrical autopilot setup. Brilliant, and if i hadn't gone for the hydrovane I would have carried a complete spare setup for the electronic pilot 
but the cost of that was similar to the hydrovane so i chose a wind vane  : no power, silent, tireless, low tech

I was a little concerned about how well the hydrovane would perform on such a big boat. My previous experience was on a 38ft long keeled thing
It worked like a charm though. When things went wrong wrt the course it prompted me to think about what I was doing wrong with the sail trim
Normally that was the issue for me and i found the prompts helpful!

We have a installation just off centre so as to not mess with out rear step access and we have the extended head tube to take the vane above our solar arch and into cleaner air
We also struggled with weed on the rudder too at times - seems to be more and more of it -  but i used a boat hook - one pass down leading edge of the rudder cleared of any weed that was caught and i could do that from inside the guard rails pretty easily. The SN has a different rear so might be more precarious proceedure ?
Ive never removed or installed the rudder at sea and i can imagine thats would be tricky
We added a massive backing pad in the transom and used the biggest washers we could find 


All down to personal preference of course
 

All the best
Miles


On 19 Sep 2020, at 18:02, Dennis Johns <sbmesasailor@...> wrote:


Hi Bernd,

If you don't have a solar arch that sticks out over your stern, you should look at the Hydrovane option. They have brackets that work well on the many different stern configurations and their product can be offset from the centerline: https://hydrovane.com/

Dennis Johns
Libertad
Maramu 121

On Sat, Sep 19, 2020 at 7:48 AM Bernd Spanner <bernd.spanner@...> wrote:

Hi!

I am looking for opinions and recommendations to make my SN independent of electricity in case of eg a lightning strike frying my electronics in the middle of the NAT or PAC.
Navigation is clear, revert to basics. But how about wind vane Auto Pilot.
yout thoughts, experiences and recommendations please.


--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal


Re: Manual Bilge Pump

Ian Park
 

Check the hose connection, and then check the hose for leaks. I, and a couple of others on the forum have had to change the hose which hardens and cracks over the years. I dismantled my pump only to find the diaphragm and non return valves were fine. But it didn’t do any harm to clean the whole thing up!

Ian
Ocean Hobo SN96
Neyland Yacht Haven, South Wales


Re: deck leak

 

Bill & Karen and everyone,

I love your sketch and simple explanation of potentially a serious issue. I will add a word of caution. Small cracks in the gelcoat of any Amel can possibly lead to a serious core moisture problem. 

How many of us have walked past a tiny crack without thinking through the potential of a serious repair? If you choose to do nothing, one day you might regret it. I suggest that at the very least, temporarily seal that crack until gelcoat repair can be done. The most common areas that I see cracks that will cause moisture penetration is near the aft lazarette and on the cockpit seats where something heavy has hit the area with force. The most common cause is damage from the bottom fin of an outboard engine. 

If you have created a small crack, don't wish for the best, do something.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Sep 20, 2020 at 7:41 PM Karen Smith via groups.io <karenharmonie=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello Amelians,

Here are our thoughts about this deck leak!

Any deck leak, no matter how small, in the main cabin of a Super Maramu is a serious issue that needs to be addressed RIGHT AWAY.  
This is the voice of painful experience. A TINY little salt line was all that alerted us to one of the biggest jobs we have had to do to our boat.

Here is why...

From the aft edge of the hatch in the main saloon forward, the deck is pretty standard balsa cored deck. 
Right behind the hatch, the deck surface rises about 3 inches, while the cabin ceiling height does not change. 
 
The cabin ceiling here is thin (4-6mm plywood) and there is an empty space between the cabin ceiling and the structural underside of the deck. 
If there is ANY leak into this space, the water is free to roll around, and will find a place to drip down probably quite remote from the actual source.

What makes this situation so serious, is the back edge of the balsa core on the forward deck is not sealed, and is exposed into this space. It will soak up that water, and rot.  This is a big expensive repair to do right.  

Leaks into this space can come from the traveler, but more likely is from the hatch in the main cabin.  

There is a hardwood frame around the hatch opening, and the hatch frame is screwed into this with wood screws.  
 A lot of force is applied to the screws that secure the hinge side of the frame.  
If one of these starts to leak, the wood saturates, and water is then deposited into that empty space between the sailing and the deck, and problems start. 

Karen Smith & Bill Kinney
SM #160
Annapolis, MD


Re: Manual Bilge Pump

Ryan Meador
 

Hi Guillaume,

On our SM (233), the manual bilge pump is a Henderson Mk 5 (now Whale).  The service kit part number for ours is AK8050.  The most likely failure is a hole in the diaphragm.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 8:41 AM Cathy & Guillaume via groups.io <carpathia3=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Recently, as we have been using the manual bilge pump quite a lot due to a problem on the AMFA electric pump, I noticed a leak on that pump, and getting worse. Grey water coming from the ceiling of the engine room...! Has anyone had that pump leak? What is the brand/model (Henderson, Whale,?) and any idea where to find spare parts or replacement?

Many thanks in advance!

Guillaume
Carpathia III, SM2K #293
Now in Athens 


Manual Bilge Pump

Cathy & Guillaume
 

Recently, as we have been using the manual bilge pump quite a lot due to a problem on the AMFA electric pump, I noticed a leak on that pump, and getting worse. Grey water coming from the ceiling of the engine room...! Has anyone had that pump leak? What is the brand/model (Henderson, Whale,?) and any idea where to find spare parts or replacement?

Many thanks in advance!

Guillaume
Carpathia III, SM2K #293
Now in Athens 


Re: Chesapeake Surveyor

Alan Grayson
 

Sorry about that mate, he did mention retiring but I did not realize it was so soon. 
Where abouts in Deltaville are you and when will you be heading south?
Alan Grayson


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...>
Sent: Sunday, 20 September 2020 6:54 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Chesapeake Surveyor
 
Hi Alan. Apparently Mike is retiring in a couple weeks so we won’t be able to use him. Hope you, Laura and Ora Pai are well. 

Ian & Margaret
Loca Lola II
SM153

On Sep 20, 2020, at 10:39 AM, Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:


Hi Ian, hope you guys are doing well, we just got an insurance survey from Mike Previti based out of Solomon's. Very happy with the results.
His number +1 410-610-8761
Regards
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
Annapolis

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...>
Sent: Saturday, 19 September 2020 11:27 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Chesapeake Surveyor
 

Looking for a surveyor in the vicinity of Deltaville, VA for an insurance valuation. Any suggestions.contact details?

Ian
SM153
Loca Lola II


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Brent Cameron
 

I was pretty sure it had to be the cable. Glad you didn’t have to go into the water to sort it. Good luck!  

Brent

On Sep 21, 2020, 5:05 AM -0400, Grant Starling via groups.io <grantstarling@...>, wrote:
Ok, so I think I have got to the bottom of the issue.  It’s the cable adjustment.  Seems obvious now.  I disconnected the cable and shifted the box by hand, loads of drive.  So I am going to have to order and fit a new shifter cable and the original style terminator as I had to cut this cable down slightly to fit a non-standard terminator which is now where I realise the whole problem started.  Basically stick to the original terminator fitting when replacing cables...

I will confirm finally once fitted and fully sorted.  Grant

--
Brent Cameron

Future Amel Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator

Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Denis Foster
 

Hello,

During research I found this particular cell balancing technique of FLASH Battery in Italy. Seems to have a lot of industrial applications/

What do you think of this .

Regards

Denis
 
 
 
 

FLASH BALANCING SYSTEM

 
 
 
 
 
 

The exclusive Flash Battery electronic balancing system is called the Flash Balancing System.

Traditional balancing systems apply resistance to the cells with the greatest charge in an attempt to “lower” them to the level of the lowest cell.

Although it’s a simple and economical method, it’s also extremely slow: 4 to 8 hours on average are required for balancing alone (in addition to the earlier charging step).

OUR FLASH BALANCING SYSTEM OFFERS MUCH HIGHER BALANCING POWER THAT IS APPLIED NOT ONLY AT THE END OF THE CYCLE, BUT ALSO ACTIVELY DURING DISCHARGE

This results in 20 times faster balancing without increasing overall recharge time to a significant extent.

Traditional balancing systems require a much longer time, so when they’re interrupted because the battery needs to be used, the result is a gradual reduction in available energy over time: vehicles and machines thus lose range at every cycle.

THE ULTRA-FAST BALANCING TIME OFFERED BY THE FLASH BALANCING SYSTEM DURING BOTH CHARGING AND DISCHARGING ELIMINATES THIS PROBLEM AND MAXIMISES RANGE.

If unexpected repairs are need, the Flash Balancing System makes it possible to add or replace cells throughout the life of the battery, which overcomes the limits of traditional systems in keeping the higher and lower-performing cells balanced.


Re: Loss of drive on my Santorin

Grant Starling
 

Ok, so I think I have got to the bottom of the issue.  It’s the cable adjustment.  Seems obvious now.  I disconnected the cable and shifted the box by hand, loads of drive.  So I am going to have to order and fit a new shifter cable and the original style terminator as I had to cut this cable down slightly to fit a non-standard terminator which is now where I realise the whole problem started.  Basically stick to the original terminator fitting when replacing cables...

I will confirm finally once fitted and fully sorted.  Grant


Re: Chesapeake Surveyor

Mark Garver
 

Try Edward Harbour, we used him when we were buying our SM a few years ago and he was really good.

HARBOUR MARINE, LLC
217 Silver Maple Drive
Chesapeake, Virginia 23322
(757) 477-2532

Best,

Mark
S/V It’s Good
Gloucester Point, VA

On Sep 20, 2020, at 1:54 PM, Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...> wrote:

Hi Alan. Apparently Mike is retiring in a couple weeks so we won’t be able to use him. Hope you, Laura and Ora Pai are well. 

Ian & Margaret
Loca Lola II
SM153

On Sep 20, 2020, at 10:39 AM, Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:


Hi Ian, hope you guys are doing well, we just got an insurance survey from Mike Previti based out of Solomon's. Very happy with the results.
His number +1 410-610-8761
Regards
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
Annapolis

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...>
Sent: Saturday, 19 September 2020 11:27 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Chesapeake Surveyor
 

Looking for a surveyor in the vicinity of Deltaville, VA for an insurance valuation. Any suggestions.contact details?

Ian
SM153
Loca Lola II



Re: deck leak

James Alton
 

Bill and Karen,

    You know your stuff Bill, thanks for the alert on the exposed balsa core.  When it comes to balsa core, prevention of damage is certainly far preferable to replacement!  End grain balsa is a fantastic core material but balsa wood is considered “perishable” as compared to more durable species of wood.  Keep it dry and it can last almost forever but if it stays wet for long it can rot pretty quickly unfortunately. 

    I am not sure if my Maramu has the same exposed core issue in your alert but I would like to investigate and if so to seal it preemptively before damage occurs.  Can you tell me what has to be removed to inspect the area in question?  

Best of luck with the fishing and keep having fun you two!

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220


On Sep 20, 2020, at 8:41 PM, Karen Smith via groups.io <karenharmonie@...> wrote:

Hello Amelians,

Here are our thoughts about this deck leak!

Any deck leak, no matter how small, in the main cabin of a Super Maramu is a serious issue that needs to be addressed RIGHT AWAY.  
This is the voice of painful experience. A TINY little salt line was all that alerted us to one of the biggest jobs we have had to do to our boat.

Here is why...

From the aft edge of the hatch in the main saloon forward, the deck is pretty standard balsa cored deck. 
Right behind the hatch, the deck surface rises about 3 inches, while the cabin ceiling height does not change. 
 
The cabin ceiling here is thin (4-6mm plywood) and there is an empty space between the cabin ceiling and the structural underside of the deck. 
If there is ANY leak into this space, the water is free to roll around, and will find a place to drip down probably quite remote from the actual source.

What makes this situation so serious, is the back edge of the balsa core on the forward deck is not sealed, and is exposed into this space. It will soak up that water, and rot.  This is a big expensive repair to do right.  

Leaks into this space can come from the traveler, but more likely is from the hatch in the main cabin.  

There is a hardwood frame around the hatch opening, and the hatch frame is screwed into this with wood screws.  
 A lot of force is applied to the screws that secure the hinge side of the frame.  
If one of these starts to leak, the wood saturates, and water is then deposited into that empty space between the sailing and the deck, and problems start. 

Karen Smith & Bill Kinney
SM #160
Annapolis, MD

<IMG_0080.PNG>


Re: deck leak

Karen Smith
 

Hello Amelians,

Here are our thoughts about this deck leak!

Any deck leak, no matter how small, in the main cabin of a Super Maramu is a serious issue that needs to be addressed RIGHT AWAY.  
This is the voice of painful experience. A TINY little salt line was all that alerted us to one of the biggest jobs we have had to do to our boat.

Here is why...

From the aft edge of the hatch in the main saloon forward, the deck is pretty standard balsa cored deck. 
Right behind the hatch, the deck surface rises about 3 inches, while the cabin ceiling height does not change. 
 
The cabin ceiling here is thin (4-6mm plywood) and there is an empty space between the cabin ceiling and the structural underside of the deck. 
If there is ANY leak into this space, the water is free to roll around, and will find a place to drip down probably quite remote from the actual source.

What makes this situation so serious, is the back edge of the balsa core on the forward deck is not sealed, and is exposed into this space. It will soak up that water, and rot.  This is a big expensive repair to do right.  

Leaks into this space can come from the traveler, but more likely is from the hatch in the main cabin.  

There is a hardwood frame around the hatch opening, and the hatch frame is screwed into this with wood screws.  
 A lot of force is applied to the screws that secure the hinge side of the frame.  
If one of these starts to leak, the wood saturates, and water is then deposited into that empty space between the sailing and the deck, and problems start. 

Karen Smith & Bill Kinney
SM #160
Annapolis, MD


Re: Bowthruster motor switch

 

I believe you had to do what we did when we ran into this problem.

Did you use a piece of pipe to put pressure on with the puller to press the shaft tube out of the bottom motor plate mount?

Pipe circled in green between puller and thruster tube:
image.png

Where to place pipe to use a puller to press the bow thruster shaft tube out of the bottom motor mounting plate:
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Sep 20, 2020 at 6:06 PM Peter Tiner <peter.tiner@...> wrote:

New Bowthruster motor
So, finally we managed to get the bowthruster apart. And for all, finding out why we couldn’t get the driveshaft down to it’s original position, ie some 20 mm lower.

We had a big issue with getting the flange loose from the driveshaft, finally we used a puller and the key was to put pressure on to the bearing and not to the driveshaft itself.

Once the flange was gone we could get the gearbox housing apart and could see why we couldn’t get the driveshaft all the way down to it’s original position.

As expected the sleeve with keyway had moved and the keys were not in place.

Hope this can help someone.

I´m attaching some pics and if someone is interested I have more.   

\Peter sy Maiken A54 #52

 

 


Re: Bowthruster motor switch

Peter Tiner
 

New Bowthruster motor
So, finally we managed to get the bowthruster apart. And for all, finding out why we couldn’t get the driveshaft down to it’s original position, ie some 20 mm lower.

We had a big issue with getting the flange loose from the driveshaft, finally we used a puller and the key was to put pressure on to the bearing and not to the driveshaft itself.

Once the flange was gone we could get the gearbox housing apart and could see why we couldn’t get the driveshaft all the way down to it’s original position.

As expected the sleeve with keyway had moved and the keys were not in place.

Hope this can help someone.

I´m attaching some pics and if someone is interested I have more.   

\Peter sy Maiken A54 #52

 

 


Eno 4 burner Stove grate and standoffs

eric freedman
 

We have had a perpetual problem trying different methods of retaining the grate above the burners. We have the stove that came with the deluxe package on our SM2000. The grate does not stay in place . The plastic standoffs are worn and I wonder if anyone has had new ones fabricated out of stainless.  The other problem we have is that a frying pan will slip under the bar on the front of the stove. We have fabricated a piece of 1/2 inch dowel rod that is suspended from the front bar by cup hooks and held in place by seizing wire. Our solution is rather amateurish looking. Any better ideas?

Fair Winds,

Eric SM 376 Kimberlite


Re: Chesapeake Surveyor

Ian Townsend
 

Hi Alan. Apparently Mike is retiring in a couple weeks so we won’t be able to use him. Hope you, Laura and Ora Pai are well. 

Ian & Margaret
Loca Lola II
SM153

On Sep 20, 2020, at 10:39 AM, Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:


Hi Ian, hope you guys are doing well, we just got an insurance survey from Mike Previti based out of Solomon's. Very happy with the results.
His number +1 410-610-8761
Regards
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
Annapolis

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...>
Sent: Saturday, 19 September 2020 11:27 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Chesapeake Surveyor
 

Looking for a surveyor in the vicinity of Deltaville, VA for an insurance valuation. Any suggestions.contact details?

Ian
SM153
Loca Lola II


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Scott SV Tengah
 

Joerg,

As I mentioned before, I believe, it is recommended (and I do) charge to full once a month. That resets the battery monitor to 100% and also balances the batteries since for every battery I know, balancing only occurs when nearly full. That has to do with the very flat voltage vs. SOC curve. There's bottom balancing, too, but that's beyond my comfort level.

There is a significant difference between charging full once a month and keeping it full. The former is recommended, the latter is generally accepted to be detrimental with no known benefits. 

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Joerg Esdorn
 

An interesting tidbit from the manual for my MV batteries. One of the „events“ causing an alarm on the Masterbus system is that the batteries HAVE NOT been fully charged for a period - default 31 days:  „ Last time fully charged serves as an event source. To prevent damage the batteries must be charged to the full 100% regularly. It is a common misconception that Lithium- Ion batteries should not be fully charged.“   


Joerg Esdorn
Amel 55 #53 Kincsem
Vigo, Spain

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