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servicing mainsail fuller and outhaul
   I recently serviced both main furling and outhaul gears and motors. I found the aluminium shaft on the furling motor very difficult to remove. It was soaked 48 hours in diesel and then pressed out with a hydraulic press, but it took a lot of pressure. Eventually it came free. Whilst the outhaul shaft came up and out with some gentle taps, being stainless steel! I think that this mast furler should be pulled apart more often to avoid the aluminium seizing in place, maybe every two years, just drop it, move the shaft up and down, check the gear box and lip seal. Alternatively have a stainless shaft made. Fortunately I had a spare gear box on board as one was in very poor shape with bad corrosion on the aluminium. However all went well and both are back and fully functional with new shaft seals. Although I now do not have a spare aboard. Something that I would like to have if I go off the beaten track. I decided to make a cover out of some PVC I had kicking around to protect the boom furling one from the elements, as shown in the pictures. There is a drain hole at the bottom of the GRP cover in case some water gets in. It is quite small maybe 8mm. It could be widened to say 12mm if required. Has anyone tried this? If so was it a success or does it just deprive the gear box of ventilation? Nick back in the UK with Amelia ashore in Leros, Greece AML 54-019
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Re: Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.
Germain Jean-Pierre
Hi Guys,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Michel, the owner of the chandlery at Marina Taina, can probably steer you to a competent electrician... Good luck Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Opua, NZ
On 23 Sep 2020, at 15:58, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
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Re: Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.
Porter,
Sorry, I can’t help with your issue but, if in your hunt for a solution you happened to find a shop who repairs electric motors, please let me know. I have a couple of spares I would like to have serviced.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Dear Amelians: I beg any insight if you would. This is a 1.5 year old motor and housing from Amel for the main sail foil furling motor. The last one, seal was damaged and the whole unit unsalvageable. This is a “new” 1.5 year old replacement. Now not working. Relays and switches all fine. Motor gotten progressively more “tired” and now has stopped rotating.
I have removed the base and look in and see no corrosion. But I think I need to remove the whole motor assembly from the housing which mean also removing the top cap. The bottom cap slipped off with mild to moderate traction. The black top cap will neither rotate with respect to the white housing nor slide out from it.
Aggressive traction I think will bend the bolts. I’ll get more aggressive if I know the top cap comes off the housing. Does it? There are screws I removed that seem to indicate the cap would pop off/out.
Tapping on base of motor: I’ve done gentle tapping. No movement. Might I damage motor by more aggressive tapping?
Of course I can disconnect and take off the boat and to town to search for a technician, but it would be so much easier to sort it here in the boat.
Some photos below illustrate the situation.
Many thanks in advance. Porter McRoberts S/V IBIS A54-152. Tahiti WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206 Www.fouribis.net
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Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.
Dear Amelians:
I beg any insight if you would. This is a 1.5 year old motor and housing from Amel for the main sail foil furling motor. The last one, seal was damaged and the whole unit unsalvageable. This is a “new” 1.5 year old replacement. Now not working. Relays and switches all fine. Motor gotten progressively more “tired” and now has stopped rotating. I have removed the base and look in and see no corrosion. But I think I need to remove the whole motor assembly from the housing which mean also removing the top cap. The bottom cap slipped off with mild to moderate traction. The black top cap will neither rotate with respect to the white housing nor slide out from it. Aggressive traction I think will bend the bolts. I’ll get more aggressive if I know the top cap comes off the housing. Does it? There are screws I removed that seem to indicate the cap would pop off/out. Tapping on base of motor: I’ve done gentle tapping. No movement. Might I damage motor by more aggressive tapping? Of course I can disconnect and take off the boat and to town to search for a technician, but it would be so much easier to sort it here in the boat. Some photos below illustrate the situation. Many thanks in advance. Porter McRoberts S/V IBIS A54-152. Tahiti WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206Www.fouribis.net   
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Re: Amel 55 hatch door cannot be locked from inside
Billy Newport
So I just un"blocked" it. Looking at the door from inside the boat. I moved the right hand sliding lock slightly to the left until the nub can be moved down. It's as if it's over too far or something and jamming the nub from moving down. As I moved the sliding lock to the left I pressed on the nub and suddenly after 1-2mm of lock bar going left, the nub went down and then it went back to normal. Go figure but I'll take it. So, the theory is somehow the right hand lock bar jammed the nub somehow. It's back to normal for now.
I tried removing that access panel but the nub prevents it from being removed and I didn't know whether to pull the nub off or unscrew it off etc so I couldn't remove the panel.
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Re: deck leak
James Alton
Arno,. You are correct, the Divinycell won't rot if water gets in. For a boat with a teak deck that has fastener holes I would prefer the Divinycell since with that many holes water is going to get in. I have been in the boat repair business for more than 40 years and I have dug out a lot of rotten plywood and balsa core and you are correct it is a huge nasty job to do right. The Amel design thankfully has very few deck and cabin penetrations so it is not that big of a job to decore each and every hole, fill with epoxy, redrill and seal. From that point forward if a fastener leaks the water cannot get into the core. The increase in compressive strength of the balsa will create a more Ridgid structure and the increase in the bonding to the fiberglass skins (assuming the layup was done correctly) also adds strength. So this means that with a weaker core you probably need to to build the boat a bit heavier to have the same strength. Are the HR's heavier than a comparable Amel? I have worked with the Divinycell on sailplanes and I will say that it the the best foam type core that I have worked with. Some of the planes were 20 plus years old and the core was still healthy. I have seen many other types of foam used for core material break down. So to distill yes on a boat where I feel that I can keep the core dry, I would much prefer to have balsa core such as my Amel. On a boat where there is a high probability of water intrusion such as a deck or cabin with a lot of screw holes, a non organic core such as Divinycell would be preferable. Best to you. James Alton SV Sueno Maramu #220
On Sep 21, 2020 11:49 PM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote: Hi James,
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Re: Amel 55 hatch door cannot be locked from inside
John Clanton
Billy,
I have never experienced what you are describing. I have always wished that when the interior lock nub is moved into the locked position, it would have a tactile or audible click assuring that it is actually locked. Since it doesn’t, I can’t help but test the handles each time to make sure they don’t slide open.
I haven’t been on the boat for 11 months and 15 days thanks to the Covid, but seem to recall an access port around the interior locking mechanism???
Please update the group when you find the issue and solution so that we can have that in the knowledge base.
John W. Clanton Devereux, A55, No. 65 Hopefully still in Antibes, France Disclaimer The information contained in this communication from the sender is confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and others authorized to receive it. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, retransmission, dissemination, distribution, copying or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon this information is strictly prohibited.
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Amel 55 hatch door cannot be locked from inside
Billy Newport
Anyone seen this. The companion way door locks and unlocks normally with the key. If locked with the key then you can unlock using the inside "knob". But, I cannot lock it from inside. The "knob" is like locked in place but when i lock with the key, it does slide down just fine. This was working fine until this week, I'm been lock/unlocking it from inside since getting the boat.
Is there a child safety thing which has a mode disabling locking from inside the boat possibly that I accidentally enabled? Amel 55#56.
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Re: In case you missed the QSails ZOOM
Alain Blanchard <akdf85@...>
Dear Bill and all,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Thank you for the video. That was very interresting and useful for me as a near future owner of a Super Maramu.
Anyway the Group activity is fantastic.
Best regards
Alain Envoyé de mon iPhone
Le 22 sept. 2020 à 21:30, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> a écrit :
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locked
Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -
Thank s Paul,
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In case you missed the QSails ZOOM
If you missed the QSails ZOOM meeting, it is now posted. Use this link: Bill
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locked
Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -
Hi Denis
i agree with you , the last 8 weeks have been dealing with Licium batteries , but it was not happy that too many complex questions are still open to me , then I have co2 and carbon batteries are busy, not matured on sailing boats at the moment Now the decision is probably on AGM Victron super cycle with it I get to the SM battery compartment about 580 AH /24 V ich hoffe damit die nächsten 5-10 Jahre zu überstehen und dann schaue ich mal neu Greetings Elja SM Balu 222 Von meinem iPhone gesendet
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Spare electric controle box M61037
#spares
Hi, does anyone have A spare electrical black box M61037 for sale for the airco Compact 9 EH - Cod. M60018 unit?
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locked
Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -
I looking into this BMS which I will probably go for, expensive but I got confidence in my contact, he provided a lot of valuable information
http://www.bestlithiumbattery.com/ Paul on sykerpa SM 259
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Re: Manual Bilge Pump
Gerhard Mueller
In Greece I have received the service kit some weeks ago from:
Alex Karademiris They have the Whale service kit AK8050 in stock.
Retail price: 38.63€+VAT
ACS courier transport 4.5€+VAT to Kalamata and received the next day.
-- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
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Re: Manual Bilge Pump
Many thanks for your help. I have just ordered a new pump and will service my current one to keep as spare/mobile unit ready for emergencies.
Guillaume Carpathia III, SM2K #293 Now in Athens
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Re: Eno 4 burner Stove grate and standoffs
eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Hi Alan,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Thank you so much. Fair Winds, Eric
On September 21, 2020 at 11:53 PM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:
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locked
Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -
Hi Arno,
The Kaiken Flash seems to be permanent equalizing. That said sometimes I have the same feeling as you about Lithium. The maturity for the cruising yacht market doesn t seem that established leading to complex not fail safe systems probably impossible to fix in remote places. For the moment we have a system that works with Gel batteries (9 years old) religiously maintained and strangely still working. I haven t excluded the possibility of replacing them by the same brand and model. I was also attracted by the Firefly carbon foam AGM. And spending the money saved on a high quality Solar installation that would be ready when Lithium will be at maturity for our specific needs. I know the industrial research on energy storage by Lithium batteries is very active now and the results will pass one day to our little niche market. Robust, reliable and easy to fix systems have there attraction.... Regards Denis
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Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -
Hi Dennis,
This is one of the problems I have with many BMS systems, if not all. They use passive top-balancing, meaning they can only balance the cells when full and do this by dissipating the energy of the fullest cells. It seems that the one you found is more clever. It does not say if it uses active balancing as far as I can see. Some time ago I found this system that does it all: https://enerstone.fr/en/ However this also needs some additional logic to protect the batteries for under/over voltage. I sort of gave up on the Lithium stuff because if you want to do this right it is immensely complex and you will have to come up with a bespoke solution that I find undesirable on a sailing yacht. Fact is that the market for lithium systems on yachts is quite small compared to other markets so not many companies develop specialized solutions for it. Regards, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54-121
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Re: Eno 4 burner Stove grate and standoffs
Hi Eric,
I drilled the hole in the bottom of the U section...this is the part that supports the stove top grating. I omitted to say that I cut a slot in each side of the U section to match the grating. The U section sits on a short piece of stainless tube and the screw goes through the U section through the tube piece and into the stove top. It replicates the original plastic things that eventually melt. Like this  Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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