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File /EX_MARINA.pdf uploaded
#file-notice
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@...>
The following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io group. By: Mark McGovern Description: |
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Re: converting 24v alternator to ribbed micro v (serpentine)
Hi Nick,
Whilst I agree serpentine belts are the ultimate for these applications, I would have to say that in 7 years we have had no issues with the twin belt setup on our Yanmar with Leece Neville 175A alternator - and we have an external regulator which means that the alternator works harder than a standard one. I changed the belts 5 years ago, just because I thought I should, and we had only just noticeable dusting and never broken or worn out a belt. In my previous experience, belt dusting and short belt life is caused by one or both of two things 1. Pulley misalignment 2, damaged V grooves in either or both pulleys - the groove sides must be absolutely smooth and clean. and of course, incorrect belt tension. A recommendation for belts I got from a local belts and transmission supplier, years ago, is to use Dayco / Carlisle raw edged cogged belts. They go around corners better and offer superior grip on the V pulleys than solid belts. I have been using those belts on this boat and the previous one for nearly 15 years with no issues ever. An advantage to using the standard setup, on our boat anyway, is that all 3 belts on the front of the engine are the same size. Cheers Alan ELYSE SM437 |
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Galley fridge intermittently cooling
Sv Garulfo
Hi all, Our fridge evaporator seems to be partially and intermittently cold. And the compressor runs but stops after a while. It had happened recently that the fridge stopped cooling but after a stop and start, i heard a hissing noise near the evaporator and it worked again for a few weeks. I searched this forum for contributions and found plenty around refilling the system with cooling gas, amongst other solutions that I will investigate. However, I was under the impression that there was a discussion about ice crystals clogging the evaporator circuit and some filter that could be changed. I cannot find that discussion though and may have dreamed it altogether... Any advice on that front? Thanks Thomas A54-122 Moorea |
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Re: Manual Bilge Pump
Mark McGovern
Re-attaching the exploded assembly drawing for the AMFA Marina/TF Marine TM 50 electric sump pump since it did not seem to attach to my previous post!
-- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA |
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Re: Manual Bilge Pump
Mark McGovern
Guillaume,
My AMFA Marina electric sump pump stopped working just this past weekend. I removed it from the engine room and took it apart and found that one of the two (2) diaphragms inside has failed completely. The pump is quite simple and easy to service. I am going to make temporary replacements diaphragms out of a sheet of Neoprene in the short term. If they work well, I will just keep the temporary diaphragms in service. I did find that TF Marine in Italy still makes and sells this pump as a Model TM 50. They also still make and sell spare parts for the pump. I have attached the exploded assembly drawing for the pump to this message and below is the contact information for TF Marine: TF MARINE SRL Lucca – Italy Tel & Fax: +39 0584 338238 website: www.tfmarine.it email: info@... I hope you, your family, and Carpathia III are well! -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA |
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Re: Pasarelle / swim ladder SM
Many thanks Mark
Alan |
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Re: Pasarelle / swim ladder SM
Many Thanks Guillaume
Alam |
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Re: Turbo question
Mark McGovern
The rust is normal and the pitting does not look terrible. The exhaust housing is made from cast iron so it will start the rust the second you stop cleaning it unless you coat it with something. I wouldn't worry about it as it certainly is not the cause of your reduced maximum engine RPM.
As long as the turbocharger shaft spins freely (at least a little bit) and if there is not excessive "play" in the shaft if you grab it with two fingers and try to move it laterally back and forth, then the turbocharger is probably fine. This assumes that the compressor wheel on other side of the turbocharger is OK. What did it look like before it was cleaned? If it looked like Delos' turbocharger completely filled with coked up crud (shown below) than it probably was the culprit:  Also, what does the exhaust elbow look like? -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA 
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Re: Turbo question
 I think i found the cause of the corrosion on the turbo. this is the picture of our old exhaust elbow. we had replaced I think sea water was spraying in onto the inside of the turbo housing
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Re: Turbo question
eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Rob,
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while you have the Turbo off, You might paint it with automotive exhaust header paint. Once it is heated up it cured and you will never have a rusty turbo. Fair Winds, Eric SM 376 Kimberlite On September 24, 2020 at 2:49 PM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote: |
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Re: Turbo question
Rob,
The most concerning part of this picture is the fan. The fan should be clean and you should be able to flick it with your fingertip and watch it spin. If it doesn’t spin freely, the problem with your lack of getting RPM is indeed the turbo. You are probably also blowing out smoke as you increase the RPM with a damaged turbo.
You have just found out how expensive turbos are for a marine engine. Save your old one and hunt for an automotive turbo repair shop during your travels. They are common. The chances are it can easily be rebuilt for not much money (under $200).
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
[mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Rob Hughes via
groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2020 12:10 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Turbo question
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Looking for late model SM 2000
My wife and I are former SM owners who miss the life and our Amel. We have been shopping for 50 foot plus boat for several months and nothing comes close to our Amel. We're interested in late model SM 2000.
Ben and Gayle Driver formerly SM 2000 #347 |
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Re: servicing mainsail fuller and outhaul
Scott SV Tengah
My "middle aged" A54 has the front cover that you guys reference.
I drilled a few additional holes in the bottom of the rest of the cover. The original Amel setup has one small hole and when I opened up all of the covers to service the outhaul motor/gearbox, there was some water pooling. I do believe that water can readily enter from the top near the shaft. Specifically if it runs down the outhaul rope track. When we give the boat a good freshwater wash, water definitely streams out of the holes I drilled. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com |
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Re: Amel 54 alternator belts
HI Barry,
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The trick is to buy an off the shelf small pulley. I think that Leece-Neville only do the one I bought, because I looked at the Pulley options on their website. The shaft on the 175 A alternator is imperial 7/8 inch so you cannot just buy any old pulley, and they have a funny keyway. Anyhow they are easy to buy on eBay USA. The small pulley nut can be undone with a ring spanner and an 8mm alan key that slots into the alternator shaft end. I cut off a section of alan key and slotted it into a ratchet handle as it requires considerable force to remove. Like 100 ft lbs! The big pulley is easy to take off, just undo the four bolts and gently prise it off. It has a male flange/hub that sets into the crank pulley about 3mm. If you actually have the small pulley to give to the machine shop it sure makes it easy to explain what you want. If you are going Lithium, you will clearly need a special regulator for the alternator with a heat sensor so it does not overheat, and you should maybe think about ducting cooling air directly at the alternator. I wish I could go back to the boat and fit it all and make sure it all works well. My original set up had two idler pulleys one top and one bottom. This improves the wrap, however the belt has a slack side and a tight side, and I was always told to only add the idler to the slack side, if possible. So I experimented with the old set up removing the idler on the tight side ( bottom one), to no real improvement. My current view is that without any idler the wrap is 160 degrees, and with the top idler only, which is the slack side, it will be a bit better at say 170 degrees. These are both very good wraps. How to decide on the pulley you need I went about it by seeing what pulley Leece-Neville could supply. This pretty much nailed it as the biggest they had was the K section 8 rib one. Then I looked at various websites that sell high output alternator kits and conversions and cribbed the Micro v belts that were used, and looked at the size of drive pulleys they used. Many of these alternators are running very small pulleys like 50mm, the drive pulleys are typically 150mm. So they get the 3:1ratio from 150mm drive pulley and 50mm alt pulley. We are much better off as the 230mm pulley machines down to 200mm, and we need 3:1 so 67mm would do it. The one I bought is 69mm max diameter but 63.5mm across the grooves. If making from new one could have 230mm drive pulley and a 75mm alt pulley. But that would be expensive and frankly unnecessary. There are two forces to consider; We are think the small pulley as there is never a problem with the big one. 1. Belt wrap, i.e. friction. This is how much belt is in contact with the pulley. So the circumference of the pulley x the proportion of the pulley wrap. So 160 degrees wrap is 160/360 x 2 x 3.14 x radius 2. then there is the lever effect which is also the radius. Imagine the belt being your arm and the radius being the length of the wrench, a short wrench needs a stronger arm. 3. then there is the width of the belt, i.e. number of ribs. 6,8, 10 or even 12. Clearly by going for smaller pulleys you add load on the belt. Not only from less surface area in contact with the pulley but also the shorter turning moment. Looking at these web sites they all use serpentine (micro v belts) and either 6, 8 or 10 ribbed belts. Having decided that we are in the right ball park, and seeing as Leece-Neville sell that pulley a their top one I was happy with the engineering choice. Then I thought it would be interesting to calculate how many KW such a belt would support; Now I am not 100% sure, so any engineer who knows better please correct me but by the tables I think that the 8 rib belt should be able to run 8 X 0.41KW assuming 120 degree wrap and a belt tension of 10kg per rib on a 45mm pulley. That is 3280 Watts with a belt tension of 80Kg. However we have better wrap so could add 40% = 4592 watts. This is 170A at 27v for a 45mm pulley, but we are running a 63.5mm pulley so the radius is increased from 22.5 to 31.5 which is another 40%. Which works out to 238A at 27v. So in conclusion we could reduce the belt tension slightly by experiment. You want it so that it does not slip at maximum output. I intend to watch the belt, run the engine at say 1500 rpm and engage the bow thruster. If it does not slip then, reduce the tension slightly until you get slip then tighten it a bit. I have a Kriket tension gauge. I reckon it will be at about 75kg. Which is pretty tight, but the belt gates specs about 100kg. It has been a fun project. Nick (in the UK) Amelia AML 54-019 in Leros.
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Amel 54 alternator belts
Begin forwarded message:
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Re: converting 24v alternator to ribbed micro v (serpentine)
Thank you Nick,
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This is excellent information. Early 2019 I had my engine serviced at Marina de Ragusa in Sicily, the technicians told me the pulleys were wrong. I didn’t want to try and replace the pulleys with no engineering knowledge. You have just solved the problem for all early 54 owners. Thank you again. Very Best Barry and Penny “SV Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique On Sep 24, 2020, at 08:00, ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:
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converting 24v alternator to ribbed micro v (serpentine)
Hi fellow Amel owners. I have never been happy with the Leece-Neville 24v 175A alternator set up on Amelia presumably as supplied by Amel. Namely a double V belt pulley of 230mm diameter driving a 85mm diameter pulley on the alternator. These pulleys were supplied for B section belts, i.e. 17mm across the top. There was endless belt dust and short belt life. I checked the specs on B section belts and the minimum pulley diameter should be 112mm although it is possible to buy a cogged belt that can run on a minimum 91mm diameter pulley, however in general 112mm diameter is the smallest for B section belts. So this 85mm diameter pulley was wrong for such big belts. I found on eBay Leece-Neville part number K176101466, priced $30. This is a K section 8 groove pulley with 63mm diameter. The bore is 7/8 inch with keyway to fit the alternator. The pulley was new and unused. Micro v belts can go round much smaller pulleys. I think for the K section it is a minimum of 45mm. So no problem going round a 63mm pulley. I then took the original 230mm double groove pulley, that bolts to the Volvo crankshaft to my local machine shop in the UK who milled it down to match the Leece-Neville one I bought. He did a superb job for £60. Please see the photos of the big pulley that has been machined down from 230mm to 200mm. So I calculate that I now have a pulley ratio of 3.14 whilst before it was 2.7. Thus at idle (725 rpm on the engine) the alternator now runs at 2300 rpm and will be charging nicely. Where as before in idle it was running at 1957 rpm. The alternator only kicks in at 2000 rpm. So in the boat manoeuvring situation we will now have proper charge, and we all know how much power the Bowthruster uses. The alternator is rated for a maximum RPM of 8000. The Volvo D3 has maximum rpm of about 2700 so I calculate that the maximum engine rpm will have to be 2547. Seeing as that is really thrashing the engine and I never run it it that level apart from the once a year blast out. I will put a small sticker at the helm saying Max RPM 2500. Total cost in US$ including new Gates Fleetrunner belt about $125. Obviously when I get back to the boat I will have to align the alternator, but note how now both pulley are exactly the same width. It will be much easier than before where one pulley was 47mm and the other 52mm. The machine shop supplied me with a few spacers, washers of different thickness, to help but I may well have to have a washer made for the final alignment. Nick (in the UK) S/Y Amelia AML 54-019 in Leros Gr    |
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Re: Pasarelle / swim ladder SM
Mark Barter
The previous owner of Nunky replaced the boards with Flexi Teak and it looks great. I am back at the boat next week so I will take some photos of what he did. I will also measure it.
-- Mark & Nicky Barter S/V Nunky SM 110 |
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Re: Fuel Line
Mark Barter
Hi Mark,
It is the fuel line that runs from the fuel shut off valve along the side of the fuel tank to the first filter. Thanks -- Mark & Nicky Barter S/V Nunky SM 110 |
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Re: Turbo question
Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222 <Bijorka@...>
No i clean the Turbo make nwe seals and it works perfekt
Elja SM Balu 222 Von meinem iPhone gesendet |
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