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Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

CW Bill Rouse
 

The answer to the seal orientation of the 3 seals is very simple.

You have 3 seals.
You need to keep the oil in and the water out.
If you had two seals, the answer is clear: one for each.

But, with 3 seals, you should decide which of the following is most important to you:
- Keeping oil in the C-Drive - if this is your priority, Henri Amel agrees with you and so do I - use 2 seals to protect from losing oil
- Keeping water out of the C-Drive - if the is your priority, Henri and I will question your logic, but use 2 seals to protect from water entering.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 6:12 PM Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
A good technique I've used to clean out milky oil is, after the initial drain, refill with diesel oil, then run the engine in gear forward and reverse for a few minutes (feeding water to the engine with a hose). Drain again and repeat until the diesel comes out clear. Two or three times will do the trick and a 6 gallon diesel fuel jerry jug is enough. Then change the wearing-out-bearing, O-ring, seals and drain plug washer and refill with 90 weight gear oil.

Bill Rouse sticks by the Amel recommendation of the three seals facing oil-oil-sea. José Venegas argues convincingly for a water-water-oil configuration, to which I just changed 6 months ago. I think José is now going on 20 years with no milky oil. (Or maybe it just seems like that in these times of covid.)

Great fun,
Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL

Re: Offshore Health Insurance

Matt Salatino
 

We used Travelex, much less expensive, includes medivac and flight insurance. We also depend on Medicare in the US.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Oct 15, 2020, at 9:48 PM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi all,
I'm looking at health insurance for myself again. I've been basically self-insuring for overseas care and have DAN Boaters insurance for emergency medical  repatriation. Iris has GeoBlue plus DAN.

Depending on deductible and copay, I'm looking at $ 7-8K premium, plus $3-10K deductible and $0-5K copay every year. That's a lot of money to pay when the only thing I could imagine costing that much overseas would be emergency surgery. Anything else and we would fly home to let Medicare pay for it.

I'd be interested to know what everyone else is doing.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Kent&Iris
Kristy
SM 243
Hoping to sail S again in Nov depending on COVID rules in Caribbean and beyond.

Re: Offshore Health Insurance

karkauai
 

Hi all,
I'm looking at health insurance for myself again. I've been basically self-insuring for overseas care and have DAN Boaters insurance for emergency medical  repatriation. Iris has GeoBlue plus DAN.

Depending on deductible and copay, I'm looking at $ 7-8K premium, plus $3-10K deductible and $0-5K copay every year. That's a lot of money to pay when the only thing I could imagine costing that much overseas would be emergency surgery. Anything else and we would fly home to let Medicare pay for it.

I'd be interested to know what everyone else is doing.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Kent&Iris
Kristy
SM 243
Hoping to sail S again in Nov depending on COVID rules in Caribbean and beyond.
Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Craig Briggs
 

A good technique I've used to clean out milky oil is, after the initial drain, refill with diesel oil, then run the engine in gear forward and reverse for a few minutes (feeding water to the engine with a hose). Drain again and repeat until the diesel comes out clear. Two or three times will do the trick and a 6 gallon diesel fuel jerry jug is enough. Then change the wearing-out-bearing, O-ring, seals and drain plug washer and refill with 90 weight gear oil.

Bill Rouse sticks by the Amel recommendation of the three seals facing oil-oil-sea. José Venegas argues convincingly for a water-water-oil configuration, to which I just changed 6 months ago. I think José is now going on 20 years with no milky oil. (Or maybe it just seems like that in these times of covid.)

Great fun,
Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Barry Connor
 

Hi Bill,
Thank you for the diagram showing the way the seals should face, exactly correct. My old school Tunisia mechanic explained this to me in detail when I told him I know how after watching the Delos video.
He went into detail even about how to increase the spring tension to make sure that the seals worked.
Having been forced by Covid-19 restrictions to stay here in Martinique at the Amel Caribbean base I am benefiting from help and advice from the Amel manager Alban and getting lots of things bought up to spec.
Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 



On Oct 15, 2020, at 18:04, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


<image.png>
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 4:43 PM Barry Connor via groups.io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Ruedi,

Wow, not again. So sorry to hear this!
I replaced my seals in Tunisia last year and was very grateful to have the small length of pipe you gave me to ensure that the seals went in without any damage to the rims of the 3 seals.
I argued with the mechanic in the Monastir marina for about half an hour about which way they should face. I saw the Delos video and thought I knew exactly the correct way they should face, this mechanic was my age and very old school. I totally lost my bet and he was absolutely correct. He used a whole tub of Volvo blue waterproof grease putting them in. Hope you find someone with his knowledge and experience when you haul out and change them.
Sorry I don’t know anything about sucking out the C-Drive oil when in the water.
I see you are now in Spain? Are you heading this way and crossing soon? I will have the Eno oven available if you still want it with all the fittings and spares and the light weight refillable fibre glass LPG bottles soon. Should be getting the Lithium change over completed by end of this year installing the new Italian electric oven with induction cooktop.

Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 



On Oct 15, 2020, at 12:10, Rudolf Waldispuehl <rudolf@...> wrote:



Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar 

Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Dan Carlson
 

Hello Ruedi, I did have some slight milky color just after changing my seals a previous time.  I don't think they seated properly right away.  First I drained and cleaned our the reservoir well. Then filled it with clean oil. Then I sucked about a liter of the bad oil that comes off of the small "return" line and attaches to the top of the reservoir. I did this twice and that removed some of the milky oil (can't be much as there are 8+ liters in the system).

I can tell you that the water did settle out of what I removed after a few days.  I repeated this twice when the drive was heated up and the oil was mixed up. Then after that it remained clear.  I was using the boat regularly during the next 6 months living aboard in the Caribbean. At the end of the season when I pulled the boat and drained the c-drive only the first liter or so out of the bottom of the drive appeared to have some residual water.  The seals appeared to be in perfect condition.  

I think in my case I only had a small initial contamination and once the seals seated well then there was no subsequent leaking. 

I wish someone could provide a clear explanation of how the oil circulates?  I was able to watch as the drive heated up with use that there was milky oil coming in the return line at the top of the reservoir. There is also a filter screen in the middle of the reservoir that appears to trap some of the water that settles out. For something so important and so discussed I've not seen a good explanation of that. 

Thanks and regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387





On Thu, Oct 15, 2020, 12:11 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar 

Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

CW Bill Rouse
 

image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 4:43 PM Barry Connor via groups.io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Ruedi,

Wow, not again. So sorry to hear this!
I replaced my seals in Tunisia last year and was very grateful to have the small length of pipe you gave me to ensure that the seals went in without any damage to the rims of the 3 seals.
I argued with the mechanic in the Monastir marina for about half an hour about which way they should face. I saw the Delos video and thought I knew exactly the correct way they should face, this mechanic was my age and very old school. I totally lost my bet and he was absolutely correct. He used a whole tub of Volvo blue waterproof grease putting them in. Hope you find someone with his knowledge and experience when you haul out and change them.
Sorry I don’t know anything about sucking out the C-Drive oil when in the water.
I see you are now in Spain? Are you heading this way and crossing soon? I will have the Eno oven available if you still want it with all the fittings and spares and the light weight refillable fibre glass LPG bottles soon. Should be getting the Lithium change over completed by end of this year installing the new Italian electric oven with induction cooktop.

Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 



On Oct 15, 2020, at 12:10, Rudolf Waldispuehl <rudolf@...> wrote:



Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar 

Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Barry Connor
 

Hi Ruedi,

Wow, not again. So sorry to hear this!
I replaced my seals in Tunisia last year and was very grateful to have the small length of pipe you gave me to ensure that the seals went in without any damage to the rims of the 3 seals.
I argued with the mechanic in the Monastir marina for about half an hour about which way they should face. I saw the Delos video and thought I knew exactly the correct way they should face, this mechanic was my age and very old school. I totally lost my bet and he was absolutely correct. He used a whole tub of Volvo blue waterproof grease putting them in. Hope you find someone with his knowledge and experience when you haul out and change them.
Sorry I don’t know anything about sucking out the C-Drive oil when in the water.
I see you are now in Spain? Are you heading this way and crossing soon? I will have the Eno oven available if you still want it with all the fittings and spares and the light weight refillable fibre glass LPG bottles soon. Should be getting the Lithium change over completed by end of this year installing the new Italian electric oven with induction cooktop.

Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 



On Oct 15, 2020, at 12:10, Rudolf Waldispuehl <rudolf@...> wrote:



Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar 

Re: Wiring Diagram of the 175 amp alternator

Mike Ondra
 

Thanks Eric!

Much easier to read that the first fuzzy image you sent.

Still haven’t been aboard to complete the troubleshooting but plan to do so later this month.

Mike Ondra

ALETSE SM#240

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 4:16 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Wiring Diagram of the 175 amp alternator

 

Hi,

Here is a wiring diagram of the wiring of the 175 amp alternator.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 
Wiring Diagram of the 175 amp alternator

eric freedman
 

Hi,

Here is a wiring diagram of the wiring of the 175 amp alternator.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

PDF
175 amp alternator wiring.PDF

Waterproofing the mast and wires for the electric motors

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hello everyone,

I'm curious what methods people use for installing and waterproofing the furler and outhaul motor cables into the mast. Our previous cables were secured and sealed into the mast with gobs of silicon/marine sealant. This certainly worked but didn't look great and made for a challenge when pulling them. Is there a better way? Maybe some type of clamshell or waterproof conduit would be better here? Does anyone have a photo of their set up?

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
Opua, NZ
Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

CW Bill Rouse
 

Rudi, 

I agree with Craig and let me add one other point. If the seals or O ring on the wear bushing are allowing water to pass, I am sure that an increased vacuum will increase the water passing through. I also believe based on the drawing below that the hose that you are referring to would only allow you to pull oil out to the level of the hose fitting just under the top of the C-Drive.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 12:22 PM Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Rudi,

I commented on this in post #47906, which you might want to read. I suggested that 2-3 months with emulsified water-oil will not cause a problem and show pictures of my pristine drive shaft after 9 months of a "milk" bath.

I doubt that suction on one of the hoses will be effective as both are at the top of the upper unit and you'll just suck air once the oil level drops a bit.
 
Craig, -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL

Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Rudi,

I commented on this in post #47906, which you might want to read. I suggested that 2-3 months with emulsified water-oil will not cause a problem and show pictures of my pristine drive shaft after 9 months of a "milk" bath.

I doubt that suction on one of the hoses will be effective as both are at the top of the upper unit and you'll just suck air once the oil level drops a bit.
 
Craig, -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar
Re: Volvo fuel injector

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Ahmet, 


My email is:  uster at rocketmail dot com


For the price: US$ 350 or 300 Euro each.  


As I mentioned, the 4 injectors are in Sint Maarten where I hope to be back to Mid November.  


Sincerely, Alexandre



On Thursday, October 15, 2020, 09:17:01 AM CDT, ahmet kipcak <ahmetkipcak@...> wrote:


Hi Alexander,
May I ask your email to confirm parts and price,
Please

Ahmet 


Alexandre Uster von Baar via groups.io <uster@...> şunları yazdı (11 Eki 2020 21:22):


Hello Ahme, 

I have 4 injectors.  
But they are in Sint Maarten and I am stuck in France. 
Should be able to be back in Nov.  


I purchased mine as spare from Diesel Services of America (I don’t recommend that company) but the Volvo part is 3581135 (for the TMD 22 P) - many mistakes are made with these injectors - mine are correct. 

http://www.nikimat.com/factures/2015_03_15_diesel_of_america_spare_injector.jpg


Since you have the TMD 22 P here is a list of the other parts I have (just in case). 

http://supermaramu2000.com/parts_for_sale/volvo_tmd_22_p.html


Sincerely, Alexandre





On Sunday, October 11, 2020, 01:03:15 PM CDT, ahmet kipcak <ahmetkipcak@...> wrote:




Hi everybady,
I am looking for Bosch fuel injector for my volvo TMD22 P (1999) engine. I need your advices to find a supplier for europe.
İnjectorModel :
2FH KBEL 68P67  200bar

Thanks for your support

Ahmet
SM247
Re: Volvo fuel injector

ahmet kipcak
 

Hi Alexander,
May I ask your email to confirm parts and price,
Please

Ahmet 


Alexandre Uster von Baar via groups.io <uster@...> şunları yazdı (11 Eki 2020 21:22):


Hello Ahme, 

I have 4 injectors.  
But they are in Sint Maarten and I am stuck in France. 
Should be able to be back in Nov.  


I purchased mine as spare from Diesel Services of America (I don’t recommend that company) but the Volvo part is 3581135 (for the TMD 22 P) - many mistakes are made with these injectors - mine are correct. 

http://www.nikimat.com/factures/2015_03_15_diesel_of_america_spare_injector.jpg


Since you have the TMD 22 P here is a list of the other parts I have (just in case). 

http://supermaramu2000.com/parts_for_sale/volvo_tmd_22_p.html


Sincerely, Alexandre





On Sunday, October 11, 2020, 01:03:15 PM CDT, ahmet kipcak <ahmetkipcak@...> wrote:




Hi everybady,
I am looking for Bosch fuel injector for my volvo TMD22 P (1999) engine. I need your advices to find a supplier for europe.
İnjectorModel :
2FH KBEL 68P67  200bar

Thanks for your support

Ahmet
SM247
Re: Genoa Chain Plate bolts Leaking in aft hanging closet

eric freedman
 

I have been using that butyl tape over the boat for a few years. However, for this application I think I would use a polysulfide like boat life or something similar. I would not feel comfortable using butyl as I don't think I could get a continuous bond all the way through the hull.. Using butyl on deck fittings is great as you can put some around the underside of bolt holes and then some under the head of the bolts and it works great , but for the chain plate bolts I would not use butyl.

On October 14, 2020 at 9:57 PM Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...> wrote:

Hello James,

After several Amelians suggested the use of Butyl Tape, and after a bit of research on the subject....  I am going to use the Butyl Tape.  Though I am a bit worried about completely removing the chainplate.....

Ken

 

Re: Sq. footage of hull

Craig Briggs
 

Interesting that the Delos crew seem not to know that Amel has always used a barrier coat inside the gelcoat such that blisters are not an issue. After sand-blasting, which may have compromised the gelcoat/barrier coat they then applied 3 layer$ of barrier coat. Oh well, belts and suspender$ and suspender$ and suspender$. Great that a blog can handle the budget.
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
Re: Genoa Chain Plate bolts Leaking in aft hanging closet

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

Hello James,

After several Amelians suggested the use of Butyl Tape, and after a bit of research on the subject....  I am going to use the Butyl Tape.  Though I am a bit worried about completely removing the chainplate.....

Ken
Re: Sq. footage of hull

Sheriffdep
 
Edited

SV Delos has a good video for measuring the sq footage of the SM2k bottom and they used 9 gal of primer "I think"for their bottom. Around 705sqft. One layer grey, one white, and another grey. Then they used a new tech type spray on coating for the anti foul.  But that video is SV Delos Bottom Work in Grenada and that will tell you exactly how much they used, I just haven't watched it in awhile.  Hope this helps, in reading what others put you have several options for sizes.  
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