Date   

Re: Genoa Chain Plate bolts Leaking in aft hanging closet

Paul Guenette
 

Here is some information on Butyl Tape.

https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/

I used Butyl tape on my previous sailboat and was really happy with the results. Not all Butyl tapes are equal, there are different qualities of Butyl tape. I found the above link a good place to source it from. 

Fair winds, Paul

Aramis, SM 2000 - 444
currently moored in Comox, BC Canada


Re: Fusion Marine Stereo (24 volt?)

Ian Townsend
 

I replaced my previous Pioneer with Fusion AV-650. It is mounted in the open cabinet area in the main salon on portside. My biggest complaint is that the BT does not carry far. This could be a function if its placement or the unit itself. 



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


-------- Original message --------
From: Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...>
Date: 2020-10-18 12:04 (GMT-05:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fusion Marine Stereo (24 volt?)

Hi Kevin,

 

The power to the radio goes through a 24-12 vdc convertor.

 

In regard to the Fusion stereo: IMO good speakers but overprice radio/receiver (unless you plan to mount it outside). I would suggest a standard known brand car radio with BT and a USB input on the front. This way you can plug any device into it. I have been using for 9 years an Alpine CDE series unit and am very happy with it. It was about 1/3 the price of Fusion. I looked long and hard at the Fusion line before buying Alpine. The ability to mix the sound output to my preference was the selling point of Alpine.

 

Most reputable car audio manufacturers will spray their circuitry with silicone to avoid corrosion – think of an install in a convertible in a coastal area. This is the same process touted by Fusion and is commonplace in most other manufacturers. Marketing spin can work wonders for sales.

 

As an added thought, I replaced the interior speakers of my SM with 6X9’s. These offer a much better full range of sound. There is plenty of room to make this upgrade. You will need to make the hole larger for the interior speakers.

 

Replacing the cockpit speakers needs a little care since the speakers have magnets and can interfere with the compass, especially the port side.  I used Fusion 4” speakers – they are almost a perfect fit to the original hole Amel cut for the original speakers and will not affect the accuracy of the compass.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Kevin Schmit
Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2020 4:32 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Fusion Marine Stereo (24 volt?)

 

I was wondering if anyone has successfully sourced a  24 volt Fusion Marine stereo ?  I could only find 12 volt systems on line.

Thanks.

Kevin


Re: Fusion Marine Stereo (24 volt?)

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Kevin,

 

The power to the radio goes through a 24-12 vdc convertor.

 

In regard to the Fusion stereo: IMO good speakers but overprice radio/receiver (unless you plan to mount it outside). I would suggest a standard known brand car radio with BT and a USB input on the front. This way you can plug any device into it. I have been using for 9 years an Alpine CDE series unit and am very happy with it. It was about 1/3 the price of Fusion. I looked long and hard at the Fusion line before buying Alpine. The ability to mix the sound output to my preference was the selling point of Alpine.

 

Most reputable car audio manufacturers will spray their circuitry with silicone to avoid corrosion – think of an install in a convertible in a coastal area. This is the same process touted by Fusion and is commonplace in most other manufacturers. Marketing spin can work wonders for sales.

 

As an added thought, I replaced the interior speakers of my SM with 6X9’s. These offer a much better full range of sound. There is plenty of room to make this upgrade. You will need to make the hole larger for the interior speakers.

 

Replacing the cockpit speakers needs a little care since the speakers have magnets and can interfere with the compass, especially the port side.  I used Fusion 4” speakers – they are almost a perfect fit to the original hole Amel cut for the original speakers and will not affect the accuracy of the compass.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Kevin Schmit
Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2020 4:32 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Fusion Marine Stereo (24 volt?)

 

I was wondering if anyone has successfully sourced a  24 volt Fusion Marine stereo ?  I could only find 12 volt systems on line.

Thanks.

Kevin


Re: Fusion Marine Stereo (24 volt?)

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

He Ken
The Radio is Connect wothe 12 V

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Fusion Marine Stereo (24 volt?)

Kevin Schmit
 

I was wondering if anyone has successfully sourced a  24 volt Fusion Marine stereo ?  I could only find 12 volt systems on line.

Thanks.

Kevin


Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Porter et al,
There is no "circulating system" in the "C" drive like an engine has with an oil pump and channels and holes for for pressurized oil flow. It's just a hollow structure around the gears and bearings that creates a bath of oil. The hoses at the top simply allow for expansion into the reservoir as the oil warms slightly and, while there may be minor circulation of oil due to convection, that's just incidental. Pretty much analogous to the lower unit of a 2-cycle outboard... 
--
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: LiFePO4 Conversion on sv BeBe - SM#387

hanspeter baettig
 

Hi Dan
very interesting information about you LiFeP04 Project. Will use it when I change to LiFeP.
Question:
How much was the total cost of this project. Without your personal work.
I hope you don‘t mind asking that.
Best regards
Hanspeter
SM 16, Tamango 2
St.Vincent & Grenadines without Covid 19

------ Original Nachricht ------
Am Samstag, 17. Okt, 2020 um 21:19, Dan Carlson schrieb:

Here is a bit of summary of the LiFePO4 battery conversion that we have been through on BeBe over the last year.    I’ll start off with a bit about ourselves as context for some of our decisions. Then describe the key components and results. 

 

Lori and I have owned BeBe for 4 years now and have sailed 7 months each winter in the Caribbean. We have primarily lived on 24v/12v power with minimal use of the previous 1800w inverter.  I’ve recorded a lot of stats as we have sailed to understand how we use things and what we need.   We typically use ~120-140AH per day at anchor and ~240AH per day underway (We’ve logged about 24 overnight sails in our four years on BeBe).  BeBe has the Yanmar 100hp main engine w/ 175amp Leece Nevile alternator, 7kw Onan genset and 160LPH 230v Dessalator water maker.  BeBe came to us with 405watts of solar on an arch. We just replaced the three existing panels with 2 LG NeON 2 panels with 345watts each (total of 690watts).   We sailed the first three years with 630AH of DECA lead acid batteries and we limped into Shelter Bay Panama at the end of season three with 3 batteries with internal shorts and the rest with greatly reduced capacity.  We ran the genset every day and twice when it was cloudy.   I was suffering from severe energy insecurity!

 

My philosophy errs towards DIY so that I know my boat systems well.  And I have a background in science/technology with lots of technical problem solving, as well as a long history of home, auto and boat projects.   But this was one of the biggest,  most complex, and daunting for me.

 

We took the approach to build an LiFePO4 system based on Prismatic cells, built into a ‘battery,’  governed by a BMS (battery management system).

  1. Our new batteries are Fortune 100AH cells in a coated aluminum case, purchased from Electric Car Parts Co.  I started 2020 with 24 cells in a 3P8S configuration (3 cells of 3.2v ea in parallel and 8 of these sets of 3 in series) for nominal 24v and 300AH.  This fall I added 8 more cells and reconfigured to 4P8S with 400AH capacity.   The height of the Fortune 100 is 305mm (12in) which is a couple of MM taller than the lip of the battery box so the lid securely holds the batteries in place.  I made custom buss bars with 1”x1/8” copper bar, and I reused the buss bars from the previous configuration to double the thickness bridging across the cell groups. (way more than adequate)
  2. I chose the ORION Jr2 BMS as it appeared to have the most capability and configurability for an application like mine.  It turns out that the amount of configurability was initially very daunting.  I know that you could get away with a lot less, but I still don’t know what capability I would want to give up or that I might want to take better advantage of in the future.   They do have good instructions to get started and have provided me with the support when needed.  But that are not geared up for end  users.  I can talk more on this in a separate thread if there is interest.
  3. Charging system changes:
    1. I replaced the original Dolphin 100A charger with a Victron Multi+ 3000/70/16/230-24v inverter/charger. The existing cables for the 100A Dolphin are barely sufficient.  Due to the heat concern in the engine room and the cable size I have limited the charging output to 60A charging. I think that the heaviest use and most likely failure mode to the unit will be due to charging usage and although the unit has cooling fans and protection circuits to limit output based on heat, I prefer to err on the safe side. We have not come near taxing the limits of the inverter.
    2. I have kept the original Dolphin 30A charger as emergency/supplement.  I only use it for short periods when charging with the generator to supplement the Victron charging. I plan to replace this soon with a similar size LiFPO configured charger.
    3. BeBe has the Leece Nevile 175A large body alternator.  I added a WakeSpeed 500 alternator controller, which I highly recommend.  I also added an Sterling Alternator Protection Device.  The WS500 is derated to 75% output and additionally has a temperature sensors on the alternator body which could derate further.  It pulls a little over 100 amps when running at 1500 rpm or above.  The highest operating temperature I have measured on the alternator is 165F.  One feature that I really like is a hard switch with sets the alternator at the ‘float’ voltage of 26.72v.  This really reduces the charging output and limits any risk of over charging.   I only flip the switch to ‘Charge’ mode when I am paying attention to what is going on when motoring. 

                                                               i.      Installation note:  Both the Victron Multi+ and the WS500 need information from the battery shunt.  I ran a 4-wire run from the shunt behind the battery box to the engine room to provide voltage and current information to the WS500 and voltage info to the Multi+.  

    1. The solar (pv) panels are controlled by a Victron Smart Solar 100/50 MPPT.  I had to upgrade the MPPT for the new larger (higher voltage) panels.  There is a fuse between the solar panels and the battery buss, and there is also a new 40amp Solid State DC relay between the solar panels and the MPPT that would allow the battery BMS to cut the solar charging if needed to prevent over charging of the batteries.
  1. System Monitoring and Control
    1. I replaced the Link10 battery monitor with a Victron BMV712 (Bluetooth enabled battery monitor)  Mounted on the 24v panel in existing hole.
    2. I added a Victron Venus GX monitor mounted on the bulkhead in the cabinet above the sink (to starboard of autopilot computer).  The Venus GX does not have a screen (Lori said no more displays in her galley!).  But everything is accessible via wifi from any of our laptops, iPads, mobile phones.  In addition it can be connected thru wifi to the external Victron VRM Portal to monitor your boat remotely.   I set this up over the summer with a wifi hotspot, but unfortunately halfway through the summer something consumed all of the data on the hotspot and my visibility went dark.    The Venus GX has wired communications from the MPPT, BMV and the Multi+.  I use it to remotely turn the Multi+ Inverter/Charger on and off.     I generally check the BMV or SmartSolar MPPT directly with the Bluetooth connection vs going through the Venus GX.   There is also the capability to establish a CanBUS network that includes the battery BMS and the WS500 alternator controller but I have not really explored the why and how to approach this yet.
  2. Other Bits of Kit:
    1. Contactors/Relays – Contrary to it’s name the BMS (battery management system) does not control your battery charging.  You primarily control that through the battery charging profiles that you set up in your battery chargers, solar MPPT and alternator regulator.  The BMS protects your battery system from over-charging or discharging, that can send signals to charging devices or activate relays to disconnect the charge or discharge sources when limits are reached.  This requires a large contactor/relay on the main battery.  I used a TYCO Kilovac EV200 500+amp 12-900v contactor.  This is a big chunk and consumes about 2AH per day.  Normally you would have one on the charge circuit and one on the discharge circuit but the Victron Multi+ confounds this (one set of wires for both charge and discharge), so I just use two small solid state relays SSR-25DD to relay the signal from the BMS to the main contactor.   I also installed an HB Controls HBC-D1D40A solid state DC relay on the positive cable from the solar panels to the MPPT to handle the Charge control from the BMS. The HB relay has a substantial heat sink to dissipate any heat generated by the load when there is a steady 70+v @ 10amp current flowing under full sun.
    2. Fuses – I added a very large fuse on the main battery for protection.   From BlueSea I selected the POWR-GARD JLLN 400A-P.   This is a 400A Class T fuse.  I would not use less than a CLASS T fuse on the battery.  And make sure your supplier provides you with the ‘time-current’ performance curves on the fuse.  The Amel SM bow thruster draws 400amps!  This fuse can handle that, and the fuse holder is also appropriately sized.   I also have a 200amp ANL fuse on the Multi+ battery cable.
  3. How I operate now:  I monitor both the battery voltage and cumulative current flow in/out of the battery bank on the Victron BMV712.  Every morning I record the battery bank voltage before sunrise and the cumulative Ahs drawn.  This gives me some benchmarks for future reference to cross check state of charge.  I have typically charged the battery bank when it gets down between 25.5v and 26.0v (this is somewhere around 15%-30% SOC.  During a period at anchor  I try to balance the battery SOC, my water tank level and planned activities to decide which days to run the generator.   I will typically run the generator for slightly over 90 minutes to allow me to produce approximately 270 liters of water and put 90+ amp-hours of charge back into the battery (usually twice a week at anchor).  At least once a month I try to top charge the battery up to about 27.4v – 27.5v (which is about 90% to 95% SOC). This helps to keep all of the cells in balance with eachother.  I keep the WS500 alternator controller switch set to the “float” when starting the motor and then based on battery SOC I will decide if I want to use the alternator to “Charge” the battery.  One trick here is that if I am motoring early in the day and ‘charge’ up the battery to high, the battery voltage will put the Solar MPPT into “float” mode and then I can lose much of the solar benefit for the rest of the day unless I rest the solar MPPT.   One other downside of not running the engine or generator to charge the batteries on a frequent basis we now need to plan for heating the water in the water heater.

 

Results:  I used to live with energy anxiety with my lead acid batteries.  Now I have a lot more capacity and confidence.  When I had 630AH of LA batteries the most that I ever used was 140AH. Last year with 300AH of LiFPO I regularly used more than 200AH before charging. Now I can comfortably use 300AH.  I used to run the generator every day.  Last season during two months of covid lock-down on anchor I ran the generator every 3rd or 4th day for water making and to top up the batteries.   This year with the increase in solar from 405watts to 690watts , only the need to make water will dictate when we need to run the generator.   And with the increased solar and battery capacity I can begin to look into induction cooking, and how to best rewire the inverter into the 230v circuit to enable use to easily run the hot water heater, washing machine, dishwasher, and even an AC in a pinch.   We don’t have unlimited energy but we are now very happy with our new limits/horizons. 

 

As I said this project was very challenging.  There are many decisions that you need to make along the way and every decision you make has many implications.  I’m far from an expert and definitely did not evaluate all of the possibilities fully.  I feel that I did navigate my way through to a solution that is best for our specific boat and style of living.  It did take me some time to get comfortable with all of the new systems.   Be aware of your comfort zone as you decide how to move forward.  

 

Happy to answer questions or provide additional information that can be of value.  But the best source of general information is the FaceBook group “Lithium batteries on a boat”.

 

Regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387


Re: Registering an SM in Canada

Ian Townsend
 

Much depends on whether you wish to sail in Canadian waters. If not, there is no tax or duty issues involved. If so, then as others have suggested choose your jurisdiction wisely. Double check the duty because I don’t believe all of the Euro-Canada free trade agreement has been implemented yet. And perhaps find a kindly surveyor to put a minimum value for your boat. A further suggestion comes from a friend who shall remain nameless. Choose a 24 hour secondary harbour to checkin and arrive in the middle of the night. 

I’m afraid there is no getting around the approved Transport Canada list. But they are world wide from what we recall. We have been Canadian flagged since 2014, got our tonnage survey at Nanny Cay and never paid a cent. So far!

Best of luck.

Ian
SM153
Loca Lola II
Maryland


Re: Registering an SM in Canada

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hi Jeff, Randall et al Canuckians,

I did just as Randall. No regrets. 

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, NZ


On 17/10/2020, at 6:28 PM, Randall <sailingalbedo@...> wrote:


Hello Jeff,
I looked into buying Moon dog an SM in Pennsylvania.
When they told me how much the tax and duty with the need for the Government survey, I found it easier to just go to France and buy an Amel with a french flag. So to save on the import duties as Canada has a free trade agreement with Europe. You can buy a boat from the country of the manufacturer duty-free. You then pay only the local tax in Canada. Alberta has no provincial sales tax so there is only the GST to pay, in all other provinces you pay HST.
All this said you save yourself a load of money. (but yes the survey still has to be done) 
In the end, I went to Spain and purchased my boat from a Brit. The vat was paid already, So I left the registry British paid 250 pounds for the 5-year registry, just a name change on the registry. Done with no pain or tax. And fly the red ensign. This is the cheapest way to do it.
My plans were to sail in sunny equatorial waters, so I will not enter Canadian waters to subject to any import fees.

Good luck,
Randall
A54#56
Gibraltar

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 7:53 PM Jeff Williams <jeff99williams@...> wrote:
Hi All,
In the process of buying SM#379 Spruzzo (thinking of keeping the name).  Boat is currently in Sicily and plan on cruising the Med for the next few years.

I'm going to register the boat in Canada....has anyone used a Canadian surveyor to get a Canadian Tonnage Certificate for their SM 2000?
If so can you give me the name of the surveyor?

Thanks!
Jeff Williams  


LiFePO4 Conversion on sv BeBe - SM#387

Dan Carlson
 

Here is a bit of summary of the LiFePO4 battery conversion that we have been through on BeBe over the last year.    I’ll start off with a bit about ourselves as context for some of our decisions. Then describe the key components and results. 

 

Lori and I have owned BeBe for 4 years now and have sailed 7 months each winter in the Caribbean. We have primarily lived on 24v/12v power with minimal use of the previous 1800w inverter.  I’ve recorded a lot of stats as we have sailed to understand how we use things and what we need.   We typically use ~120-140AH per day at anchor and ~240AH per day underway (We’ve logged about 24 overnight sails in our four years on BeBe).  BeBe has the Yanmar 100hp main engine w/ 175amp Leece Nevile alternator, 7kw Onan genset and 160LPH 230v Dessalator water maker.  BeBe came to us with 405watts of solar on an arch. We just replaced the three existing panels with 2 LG NeON 2 panels with 345watts each (total of 690watts).   We sailed the first three years with 630AH of DECA lead acid batteries and we limped into Shelter Bay Panama at the end of season three with 3 batteries with internal shorts and the rest with greatly reduced capacity.  We ran the genset every day and twice when it was cloudy.   I was suffering from severe energy insecurity!

 

My philosophy errs towards DIY so that I know my boat systems well.  And I have a background in science/technology with lots of technical problem solving, as well as a long history of home, auto and boat projects.   But this was one of the biggest,  most complex, and daunting for me.

 

We took the approach to build an LiFePO4 system based on Prismatic cells, built into a ‘battery,’  governed by a BMS (battery management system).

  1. Our new batteries are Fortune 100AH cells in a coated aluminum case, purchased from Electric Car Parts Co.  I started 2020 with 24 cells in a 3P8S configuration (3 cells of 3.2v ea in parallel and 8 of these sets of 3 in series) for nominal 24v and 300AH.  This fall I added 8 more cells and reconfigured to 4P8S with 400AH capacity.   The height of the Fortune 100 is 305mm (12in) which is a couple of MM taller than the lip of the battery box so the lid securely holds the batteries in place.  I made custom buss bars with 1”x1/8” copper bar, and I reused the buss bars from the previous configuration to double the thickness bridging across the cell groups. (way more than adequate)
  2. I chose the ORION Jr2 BMS as it appeared to have the most capability and configurability for an application like mine.  It turns out that the amount of configurability was initially very daunting.  I know that you could get away with a lot less, but I still don’t know what capability I would want to give up or that I might want to take better advantage of in the future.   They do have good instructions to get started and have provided me with the support when needed.  But that are not geared up for end  users.  I can talk more on this in a separate thread if there is interest.
  3. Charging system changes:
    1. I replaced the original Dolphin 100A charger with a Victron Multi+ 3000/70/16/230-24v inverter/charger. The existing cables for the 100A Dolphin are barely sufficient.  Due to the heat concern in the engine room and the cable size I have limited the charging output to 60A charging. I think that the heaviest use and most likely failure mode to the unit will be due to charging usage and although the unit has cooling fans and protection circuits to limit output based on heat, I prefer to err on the safe side. We have not come near taxing the limits of the inverter.
    2. I have kept the original Dolphin 30A charger as emergency/supplement.  I only use it for short periods when charging with the generator to supplement the Victron charging. I plan to replace this soon with a similar size LiFPO configured charger.
    3. BeBe has the Leece Nevile 175A large body alternator.  I added a WakeSpeed 500 alternator controller, which I highly recommend.  I also added an Sterling Alternator Protection Device.  The WS500 is derated to 75% output and additionally has a temperature sensors on the alternator body which could derate further.  It pulls a little over 100 amps when running at 1500 rpm or above.  The highest operating temperature I have measured on the alternator is 165F.  One feature that I really like is a hard switch with sets the alternator at the ‘float’ voltage of 26.72v.  This really reduces the charging output and limits any risk of over charging.   I only flip the switch to ‘Charge’ mode when I am paying attention to what is going on when motoring. 

                                                               i.      Installation note:  Both the Victron Multi+ and the WS500 need information from the battery shunt.  I ran a 4-wire run from the shunt behind the battery box to the engine room to provide voltage and current information to the WS500 and voltage info to the Multi+.  

    1. The solar (pv) panels are controlled by a Victron Smart Solar 100/50 MPPT.  I had to upgrade the MPPT for the new larger (higher voltage) panels.  There is a fuse between the solar panels and the battery buss, and there is also a new 40amp Solid State DC relay between the solar panels and the MPPT that would allow the battery BMS to cut the solar charging if needed to prevent over charging of the batteries.
  1. System Monitoring and Control
    1. I replaced the Link10 battery monitor with a Victron BMV712 (Bluetooth enabled battery monitor)  Mounted on the 24v panel in existing hole.
    2. I added a Victron Venus GX monitor mounted on the bulkhead in the cabinet above the sink (to starboard of autopilot computer).  The Venus GX does not have a screen (Lori said no more displays in her galley!).  But everything is accessible via wifi from any of our laptops, iPads, mobile phones.  In addition it can be connected thru wifi to the external Victron VRM Portal to monitor your boat remotely.   I set this up over the summer with a wifi hotspot, but unfortunately halfway through the summer something consumed all of the data on the hotspot and my visibility went dark.    The Venus GX has wired communications from the MPPT, BMV and the Multi+.  I use it to remotely turn the Multi+ Inverter/Charger on and off.     I generally check the BMV or SmartSolar MPPT directly with the Bluetooth connection vs going through the Venus GX.   There is also the capability to establish a CanBUS network that includes the battery BMS and the WS500 alternator controller but I have not really explored the why and how to approach this yet.
  2. Other Bits of Kit:
    1. Contactors/Relays – Contrary to it’s name the BMS (battery management system) does not control your battery charging.  You primarily control that through the battery charging profiles that you set up in your battery chargers, solar MPPT and alternator regulator.  The BMS protects your battery system from over-charging or discharging, that can send signals to charging devices or activate relays to disconnect the charge or discharge sources when limits are reached.  This requires a large contactor/relay on the main battery.  I used a TYCO Kilovac EV200 500+amp 12-900v contactor.  This is a big chunk and consumes about 2AH per day.  Normally you would have one on the charge circuit and one on the discharge circuit but the Victron Multi+ confounds this (one set of wires for both charge and discharge), so I just use two small solid state relays SSR-25DD to relay the signal from the BMS to the main contactor.   I also installed an HB Controls HBC-D1D40A solid state DC relay on the positive cable from the solar panels to the MPPT to handle the Charge control from the BMS. The HB relay has a substantial heat sink to dissipate any heat generated by the load when there is a steady 70+v @ 10amp current flowing under full sun.
    2. Fuses – I added a very large fuse on the main battery for protection.   From BlueSea I selected the POWR-GARD JLLN 400A-P.   This is a 400A Class T fuse.  I would not use less than a CLASS T fuse on the battery.  And make sure your supplier provides you with the ‘time-current’ performance curves on the fuse.  The Amel SM bow thruster draws 400amps!  This fuse can handle that, and the fuse holder is also appropriately sized.   I also have a 200amp ANL fuse on the Multi+ battery cable.
  3. How I operate now:  I monitor both the battery voltage and cumulative current flow in/out of the battery bank on the Victron BMV712.  Every morning I record the battery bank voltage before sunrise and the cumulative Ahs drawn.  This gives me some benchmarks for future reference to cross check state of charge.  I have typically charged the battery bank when it gets down between 25.5v and 26.0v (this is somewhere around 15%-30% SOC.  During a period at anchor  I try to balance the battery SOC, my water tank level and planned activities to decide which days to run the generator.   I will typically run the generator for slightly over 90 minutes to allow me to produce approximately 270 liters of water and put 90+ amp-hours of charge back into the battery (usually twice a week at anchor).  At least once a month I try to top charge the battery up to about 27.4v – 27.5v (which is about 90% to 95% SOC). This helps to keep all of the cells in balance with eachother.  I keep the WS500 alternator controller switch set to the “float” when starting the motor and then based on battery SOC I will decide if I want to use the alternator to “Charge” the battery.  One trick here is that if I am motoring early in the day and ‘charge’ up the battery to high, the battery voltage will put the Solar MPPT into “float” mode and then I can lose much of the solar benefit for the rest of the day unless I rest the solar MPPT.   One other downside of not running the engine or generator to charge the batteries on a frequent basis we now need to plan for heating the water in the water heater.

 

Results:  I used to live with energy anxiety with my lead acid batteries.  Now I have a lot more capacity and confidence.  When I had 630AH of LA batteries the most that I ever used was 140AH. Last year with 300AH of LiFPO I regularly used more than 200AH before charging. Now I can comfortably use 300AH.  I used to run the generator every day.  Last season during two months of covid lock-down on anchor I ran the generator every 3rd or 4th day for water making and to top up the batteries.   This year with the increase in solar from 405watts to 690watts , only the need to make water will dictate when we need to run the generator.   And with the increased solar and battery capacity I can begin to look into induction cooking, and how to best rewire the inverter into the 230v circuit to enable use to easily run the hot water heater, washing machine, dishwasher, and even an AC in a pinch.   We don’t have unlimited energy but we are now very happy with our new limits/horizons. 

 

As I said this project was very challenging.  There are many decisions that you need to make along the way and every decision you make has many implications.  I’m far from an expert and definitely did not evaluate all of the possibilities fully.  I feel that I did navigate my way through to a solution that is best for our specific boat and style of living.  It did take me some time to get comfortable with all of the new systems.   Be aware of your comfort zone as you decide how to move forward.  

 

Happy to answer questions or provide additional information that can be of value.  But the best source of general information is the FaceBook group “Lithium batteries on a boat”.

 

Regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387


Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Porter McRoberts
 

Re milky oil: also for us just now, the oil seemed very slightly milky after an oil change in NZ about 50 hours ago. Now after about another 10 hours all seems fine. I also would love an explanation of the circulatory system!  

Porter 

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Oct 17, 2020, at 9:12 AM, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:


Thanks Craig, your message is relaxing me. ;-)

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of "Craig Briggs via groups.io" <sangaris@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Donnerstag, 15. Oktober 2020 um 19:22
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Hi Rudi,

I commented on this in post #47906, which you might want to read. I suggested that 2-3 months with emulsified water-oil will not cause a problem and show pictures of my pristine drive shaft after 9 months of a "milk" bath.

I doubt that suction on one of the hoses will be effective as both are at the top of the upper unit and you'll just suck air once the oil level drops a bit.
 
Craig, -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Thanks Craig, your message is relaxing me. ;-)

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of "Craig Briggs via groups.io" <sangaris@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Donnerstag, 15. Oktober 2020 um 19:22
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Hi Rudi,

I commented on this in post #47906, which you might want to read. I suggested that 2-3 months with emulsified water-oil will not cause a problem and show pictures of my pristine drive shaft after 9 months of a "milk" bath.

I doubt that suction on one of the hoses will be effective as both are at the top of the upper unit and you'll just suck air once the oil level drops a bit.
 
Craig, -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

HI Daniel and Lori
Thanks for sharing your experience and the explanation
Best regards
Ruedi & Sabina, sv WASABI A54#55

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Freitag, 16. Oktober 2020 um 00:05
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Hello Ruedi, I did have some slight milky color just after changing my seals a previous time.  I don't think they seated properly right away.  First I drained and cleaned our the reservoir well. Then filled it with clean oil. Then I sucked about a liter of the bad oil that comes off of the small "return" line and attaches to the top of the reservoir. I did this twice and that removed some of the milky oil (can't be much as there are 8+ liters in the system).

I can tell you that the water did settle out of what I removed after a few days.  I repeated this twice when the drive was heated up and the oil was mixed up. Then after that it remained clear.  I was using the boat regularly during the next 6 months living aboard in the Caribbean. At the end of the season when I pulled the boat and drained the c-drive only the first liter or so out of the bottom of the drive appeared to have some residual water.  The seals appeared to be in perfect condition.  

I think in my case I only had a small initial contamination and once the seals seated well then there was no subsequent leaking. 

I wish someone could provide a clear explanation of how the oil circulates?  I was able to watch as the drive heated up with use that there was milky oil coming in the return line at the top of the reservoir. There is also a filter screen in the middle of the reservoir that appears to trap some of the water that settles out. For something so important and so discussed I've not seen a good explanation of that. 

Thanks and regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387





On Thu, Oct 15, 2020, 12:11 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar 


Re: Registering an SM in Canada

Randall Walker
 

Hello Jeff,
I looked into buying Moon dog an SM in Pennsylvania.
When they told me how much the tax and duty with the need for the Government survey, I found it easier to just go to France and buy an Amel with a french flag. So to save on the import duties as Canada has a free trade agreement with Europe. You can buy a boat from the country of the manufacturer duty-free. You then pay only the local tax in Canada. Alberta has no provincial sales tax so there is only the GST to pay, in all other provinces you pay HST.
All this said you save yourself a load of money. (but yes the survey still has to be done) 
In the end, I went to Spain and purchased my boat from a Brit. The vat was paid already, So I left the registry British paid 250 pounds for the 5-year registry, just a name change on the registry. Done with no pain or tax. And fly the red ensign. This is the cheapest way to do it.
My plans were to sail in sunny equatorial waters, so I will not enter Canadian waters to subject to any import fees.

Good luck,
Randall
A54#56
Gibraltar

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 7:53 PM Jeff Williams <jeff99williams@...> wrote:
Hi All,
In the process of buying SM#379 Spruzzo (thinking of keeping the name).  Boat is currently in Sicily and plan on cruising the Med for the next few years.

I'm going to register the boat in Canada....has anyone used a Canadian surveyor to get a Canadian Tonnage Certificate for their SM 2000?
If so can you give me the name of the surveyor?

Thanks!
Jeff Williams  


Re: Galley fridge intermittently cooling

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi all,

To give an update:
An refrigeration engineer friend came to have a look and found the system low on refrigerant, but couldn’t find a leak. The usual culprit (the seals in the quick fittings) were not at fault. We opted to top it up and see the evolution. 2 weeks later, it’s still good. Keeping an eye on it. 

I also found the fan that cools the heat sink on the compressor to be dead and replaced it. Pic attached in case you want to get spares. It’s a 24V unit but the system runs it at 12V. It’s pretty standard and costs a few dollars on Amazon. 


Thanks 
Thomas 
GARULFO
A54-122
Papeete, Tahiti 



On Thu, 24 Sep 2020 at 19:37, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hi Thomas;

 

An LED bulb will not work. You need an old style LED Diode. These have the two long pins that are usually installed on circuit boards and usually come in a red color. You could have other colors too, which is fine. You can usually find them in electronics stores. Try reducing the RPM to 2000 and see if that helps. If it does, and the compressor starts and stays on and the fridge cools, then your compressor may be getting to the end of its life.

 

We just replaced the compressor under the top load refrigerator in the galley. I think all of the three compressors are the same or very similar.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Sv Garulfo via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2020 9:54 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Galley fridge intermittently cooling

 

Thanks Mohammad,

 

Hi tried rigging one of my led saloon lights to the connection points on the controller but it didn’t show anything. I blame my rigging/understanding of the connection points. As an aside, i believe the fan attached to the metal radiator on the compressor to be failed. 

 

The potentiometer is set to 3000 rpm at present. 

 

Did you replace just the compressor part, or also the evaporator? Our issue applies to the Stainless steel unit, which is our primary fridge. 

 

Investigation continues...

 

Thomas

 

 

 

On Thu, 24 Sep 2020 at 13:58, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hi Thomas;

 

We had a similar situation last year. The controller on the compressor is equipped with an LED or a connection point that an LED can be connected to, so the unit will give you one of 4 or 5 error codes. I do not remember exactly as it was a while ago and I do not have all of my notes in front of me.

 

There is also a potentiometer (variable resistor) on the board that allows for selection of the compressor RPM. In our case, reducing the RPMs from max RPM of 3500 to 2000, fixed the issue for about a year. After that, the problem reoccurred and our investigation, along with a  trusted dealer in Corfu Greece, led to the conclusion that the compressor had failed an we ended up replacing the entire unit.

 

Lowering the RPMs has the effect of lowering the load on the compressor. So if the compressor is marginal, it will work for a while. The effect of lower RPM on the performance of the refrigerator, is the speed at which it cools the unit down to the desired temperature. Our unit was 11 years old at the time and we felt had provided an expected life for the product. This was the top load refrigerator in the galley that gets a lot of usage.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Sv Garulfo via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2020 3:56 PM
To: Amel Yacht owners Group <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Galley fridge intermittently cooling

 

Hi all,

 

Our fridge evaporator seems to be partially and  intermittently cold. And the compressor runs but stops after a while. It had happened recently that the fridge stopped cooling but after a stop and start, i heard a hissing noise near the evaporator and it worked again for a few weeks. 

 

I searched this forum for contributions and found plenty around refilling the system with cooling gas, amongst other solutions that I will investigate. 

However, I was under the impression that there was a discussion about ice crystals clogging the evaporator circuit and some filter that could be changed. I cannot find that discussion though and may have dreamed it altogether...

 

Any advice on that front?

 

 

Thanks

Thomas 

A54-122

Moorea

 

 


Re: Offshore Health Insurance

Mark Erdos
 

Kent,

 

I think you mentioned in the past you use Growie Insurance and their Jack-line policy. Check with them for offshore medical plans. If I recall correctly they represent IMG.

 

There are many options available for international healthcare. We tend to shop outside of the USA for international insurance since the policies are much easier to understand and cost a lot less. Our international policy is more for catastrophic stuff and has a high deductable. We pay out of pocket for most healthcare. We have found outside of the USA, good affordable healthcare is readily available in most countries and is about 1/5th the price of care in the USA. The price for our $2M policy is about $1800 per year for both of us. The deductable is US$5,000 each.

As an added thought – I do not limit myself to the USA should I need major treatment. There are countries in the world with very advanced healthcare systems who can provide services compatible with or much better than USA Medicare or private insurance options. For example, the biggest boom in Panama is travel-healthcare. Singapore, Thailand, UAE, Malaysia, and even India have JCI accredited hospitals. Many of these hospitals have better ratings than those in the USA, especially in their areas of expertise.

 

I think I deserve a cookie for restraining myself from going on a rant about the state of the USA healthcare system – {smile}

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 3:49 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Offshore Health Insurance

 

Hi all,
I'm looking at health insurance for myself again. I've been basically self-insuring for overseas care and have DAN Boaters insurance for emergency medical  repatriation. Iris has GeoBlue plus DAN.

Depending on deductible and copay, I'm looking at $ 7-8K premium, plus $3-10K deductible and $0-5K copay every year. That's a lot of money to pay when the only thing I could imagine costing that much overseas would be emergency surgery. Anything else and we would fly home to let Medicare pay for it.

I'd be interested to know what everyone else is doing.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Kent&Iris
Kristy
SM 243
Hoping to sail S again in Nov depending on COVID rules in Caribbean and beyond.


Re: VP TMD 22 muffler

Karen Smith
 

Hello Paul!

My suggestion to you on this topic would be, "It depends."  It seems like that is always the answer to a sailing question, but let me expand a bit.

The Amel metal muffler does have a finite life, although ours is still going strong at 25 years, and pushing 9000 engine hours.  I have never heard of one failing catastrophically, but rather they seem to develop slow leaks that grow slowly, giving you the luxury of selecting the time for replacement.  If you were heading off to the remote islands in the South Pacific, this might be a good time for a little proactive replacement since getting an alternative would be expensive and difficult.  On the other hand, if you are coastal cruising in Europe, I would suggest waiting, since a replacement is relatively inexpensive and fast and easy to source.

Bill Kinney
SM#160
Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA
http://fetchinketch.net



Re: Registering an SM in Canada

Arnold Mente
 

Hi Jeff,

in Austria is the same issue for registration. I send the drawing, every Amel have it in its papers to a nautical engineer and he did this for me. So the tax can calculate by the government.
It was a small amount.

Best

Arnold
Zephyr
SM 203


Am 16.10.2020 um 22:40 schrieb amelforme <jfpottercys@...>:

Hello Jeff as you have probably come to understand, the Canadian tonnage is a nearly but not exactly the same thing as the UK tonnage. It is based on ancient and arcane measurements that support the formulation of a "tonnage" that measures the volumetrics of the interior. It was used long ago to calculate how much "stuff" a commercial vessel could carry and hence, how much tax could be applied by the government.
It has nothing to do with weight or displacement.
I was told not too long ago, but don't have this on any authority, that you can get Transport Canada to give you the forms to fill out by any accredited marine surveyor. Again, I was told this worked by someone who should know but I was not part of the process. Also, TransCan used to have a list of world wide surveyors that were approved for this particular survey but that was at least a decade ago and maybe longer.
Maybe worth digging a bit deeper?
Good luck with it.
JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
Office 954-462-5869 

On Oct 16, 2020, at 3:09 PM, Jeff Williams <jeff99williams@...> wrote:


Hi Jean-Pierre,
It is a Canadian Transport Canada thing.   Need a Canadian registered surveyor to complete a tonnage certificate form if the boat is over 15m to register the boat in Canada.    I used Olivier for my survey and he was excellent.    
Thanks,
Jeff

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 2:57 PM Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:
Hello Jeff,

I am Canadian as well and my reg is UK.  Why do you need  CDN surveyor for tonnage?

I used the renowned surveyor named Olivier Beauté, ex director of after sales at Amel. 

He is completely qualified to tell you the tonnage... they are all identical!! 

Good luck

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Opua, NZ


On 17/10/2020, at 6:53 AM, Jeff Williams <jeff99williams@...> wrote:

Hi All,
In the process of buying SM#379 Spruzzo (thinking of keeping the name).  Boat is currently in Sicily and plan on cruising the Med for the next few years.

I'm going to register the boat in Canada....has anyone used a Canadian surveyor to get a Canadian Tonnage Certificate for their SM 2000?
If so can you give me the name of the surveyor?

Thanks!
Jeff Williams  





--
Arnold
SY Zephyr SM203


Re: Registering an SM in Canada

amelforme
 

Hello Jeff as you have probably come to understand, the Canadian tonnage is a nearly but not exactly the same thing as the UK tonnage. It is based on ancient and arcane measurements that support the formulation of a "tonnage" that measures the volumetrics of the interior. It was used long ago to calculate how much "stuff" a commercial vessel could carry and hence, how much tax could be applied by the government.
It has nothing to do with weight or displacement.
I was told not too long ago, but don't have this on any authority, that you can get Transport Canada to give you the forms to fill out by any accredited marine surveyor. Again, I was told this worked by someone who should know but I was not part of the process. Also, TransCan used to have a list of world wide surveyors that were approved for this particular survey but that was at least a decade ago and maybe longer.
Maybe worth digging a bit deeper?
Good luck with it.
JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
Office 954-462-5869 

On Oct 16, 2020, at 3:09 PM, Jeff Williams <jeff99williams@...> wrote:


Hi Jean-Pierre,
It is a Canadian Transport Canada thing.   Need a Canadian registered surveyor to complete a tonnage certificate form if the boat is over 15m to register the boat in Canada.    I used Olivier for my survey and he was excellent.    
Thanks,
Jeff

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 2:57 PM Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:
Hello Jeff,

I am Canadian as well and my reg is UK.  Why do you need  CDN surveyor for tonnage?

I used the renowned surveyor named Olivier Beauté, ex director of after sales at Amel. 

He is completely qualified to tell you the tonnage... they are all identical!! 

Good luck

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Opua, NZ


On 17/10/2020, at 6:53 AM, Jeff Williams <jeff99williams@...> wrote:

Hi All,
In the process of buying SM#379 Spruzzo (thinking of keeping the name).  Boat is currently in Sicily and plan on cruising the Med for the next few years.

I'm going to register the boat in Canada....has anyone used a Canadian surveyor to get a Canadian Tonnage Certificate for their SM 2000?
If so can you give me the name of the surveyor?

Thanks!
Jeff Williams  


Re: Registering an SM in Canada

Teun BAAS
 

Since 2018 incident where a Dutch ICP registered GERMAN vessel illegally entered MALTESE waters with 234 migrants the Dutch government swiftly issued a law that Dutch ICP Registry is no good and is NOT allowed to fly the Dutch flag; and how do I know ???

However, The Dutch KADASTER registry is perfect & 100% legal and recognized worldwide but means the KADASTER officers have to visit the boat in person. Difficult now with COVID-19 (especially now THE NETHERLANDS as well as BELGIUM are the hotbeds of CORONA – EU code RED ) and expensive.

 

Working on a solution for AMELIT I got a couple of weeks ago this Email – it seems that Italy as well as PORTUGAL are really creating problems on the EU ICP since 2019 and clamping down.

 

QUOTE

 

Several disturbing signals have reached us concerning the Italian acceptance of the EU ICP Light Registration.

 

Since last week it seems that the Italian nautical authorities no longer accept the EU ICP Light Registration.

 

In some cases this has resulted in the fact that the yacht was detained and only could leave the marina once the owner switched from registration type.

 

This because of the fact that the EU ICP Light Registration is a ownerships registration and not a flag (Title) registration. The Italians since this week only accept flag certificates.

 

In the case you sail in Italy or plan to sail in Italy we strongly advise you to check what kind of registration you have and consider to update it to a (Title) flag registration.

 

At this moment the most popular registration for yacht owners who sail in Italy is the Polish EU Flag registration and which includes a provisional registration which will be released in just a few days after the registration request.

 

 

UNQUOTE

 

Best Regards Teun

 

A54 2009 #128

October 16, 2020 13:30:03

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Germain Jean-Pierre via groups.io
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 12:33
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Registering an SM in Canada

 

Hi Jeff, 

 

Hmmm. Have you thought of a Dutch or Belgian registry? 

 

Resale might be simpler....

 

Good luck

 

Jean-Pierre Germain 



On 17/10/2020, at 8:09 AM, Jeff Williams <jeff99williams@...> wrote:



Hi Jean-Pierre,

It is a Canadian Transport Canada thing.   Need a Canadian registered surveyor to complete a tonnage certificate form if the boat is over 15m to register the boat in Canada.    I used Olivier for my survey and he was excellent.    

Thanks,

Jeff

 

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 2:57 PM Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

Hello Jeff,

 

I am Canadian as well and my reg is UK.  Why do you need  CDN surveyor for tonnage?

 

I used the renowned surveyor named Olivier Beauté, ex director of after sales at Amel. 

 

He is completely qualified to tell you the tonnage... they are all identical!! 

 

Good luck

 

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Opua, NZ



On 17/10/2020, at 6:53 AM, Jeff Williams <jeff99williams@...> wrote:

Hi All,
In the process of buying SM#379 Spruzzo (thinking of keeping the name).  Boat is currently in Sicily and plan on cruising the Med for the next few years.

I'm going to register the boat in Canada....has anyone used a Canadian surveyor to get a Canadian Tonnage Certificate for their SM 2000?
If so can you give me the name of the surveyor?

Thanks!
Jeff Williams