Date   

Re: Main Furler - Sail stuck / jammed

Santorin LO
 

Thank You Bill, Ian and Courtney,

Tried all already, except of releasing the gear and try manually - will give it a go tomorrow morning and will update.


Re: Main Furler - Sail stuck / jammed

 

You have a problem that probably includes the sail twisted backwards on the foil. The guy might be a good electrician, but keep him off the boat. 

Drop the motor and gearbox about 30mm by loosening the 4 bolts  Untie the mainsail from the outhaul. While pulling on the clew of the mainsail, use a winch handle in the manual furler turning a little clockwise and anticlockwise until you have all of the sail unfurled. You may have to go up the mast to pull the sail out. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   


On Thu, Oct 29, 2020, 12:55 PM Santorin LO via groups.io <santorinlo18=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,

The motor is ok, and operational. the sail was opened with NO out hauling, and then closed again and then opened again by the electrician ALL within the mast without out hauling - what caused the sail now to be 'messy folded' in the mast.


Re: Main Furler - Sail stuck / jammed

Courtney Gorman
 

Start by furling as tightly as possible then streach the out haul loosen and repeat 


On Oct 29, 2020, at 2:00 PM, Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:

Do as Bill says and use the winch handle, but on my previous boat (not AMEL) the furling main jammed a few times - usually when rolled too loosely. I found it helped to pull downwards hard on the leach of the sail. You may need to release or slacken the short rope on the clew first. It may help too if someone can reach up and push the sail/foil inwards (away from the mast slot). Good luck.


Re: Main Furler - Sail stuck / jammed

Ian Park
 

Do as Bill says and use the winch handle, but on my previous boat (not AMEL) the furling main jammed a few times - usually when rolled too loosely. I found it helped to pull downwards hard on the leach of the sail. You may need to release or slacken the short rope on the clew first. It may help too if someone can reach up and push the sail/foil inwards (away from the mast slot). Good luck.


Re: Main Furler - Sail stuck / jammed

Santorin LO
 

Hi Bill,

The motor is ok, and operational. the sail was opened with NO out hauling, and then closed again and then opened again by the electrician ALL within the mast without out hauling - what caused the sail now to be 'messy folded' in the mast.


Re: Main Furler - Sail stuck / jammed

 

Is it stuck, or is there a blown circuit breaker?

If stuck, the furling foil can be released from the motor gearbox:
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Oct 29, 2020 at 12:26 PM Santorin LO via groups.io <santorinlo18=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Group,

When left the electrician for few mins to go through the main control panel (above the steering) in order to reinforce, clean up and do the contacts - he was playing too much with the main fuller button - from here I believe you can guess what happened...

Right now the sail is well stuck can't move in or out (closed position). Do anyone has an idea how to release?

It happened to me once previously but was 50% out so was able to shake the boom, then in / out few attempts and released. This time seem to be much more complicated.

Please any 


Main Furler - Sail stuck / jammed

Santorin LO
 

Hi Group,

When left the electrician for few mins to go through the main control panel (above the steering) in order to reinforce, clean up and do the contacts - he was playing too much with the main fuller button - from here I believe you can guess what happened...

Right now the sail is well stuck can't move in or out (closed position). Do anyone has an idea how to release?

It happened to me once previously but was 50% out so was able to shake the boom, then in / out few attempts and released. This time seem to be much more complicated.

Please any 


Re: A question about coppercoat

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Paul,

We put Coppercoat on 10 years ago when we were in England .  In our first season we went up to Scotland and on to the Med and we have been in the Med ever since.

 We were disappointed in our first season as the hull stayed a sort of brown colour  ( as originally painted ) and we had some fouling. We then sanded very gently and have not looked back.

 We had some rust coming through on the iron keel after 5 years so we had  Coppercoat applied afresh  on that section by Cleopatra marina in Preveza in the Ionian. ( they did a very thorough job )

We now sail for 5 months of the year, April till June, coming ashore for July and August, then afloat in the autumn and ashore in the winter.

 Our Coppercoat is now green. The copper has really come through and is completely effective against fouling. Someone had told me that Coppercoat gets better as the years go by. I took that with a pinch of salt at the time but today I share that view.  After three months in the summer we can detect a slime on parts of the hull but it comes off with a sponge when we are swimming.  Med sea temperature in the summer can get up to 27c ( 80F) and was still at 24c  ( 75F) last week.
When we lift we are as clean as when we launch. 

 For us, with our limited number of months afloat, Coppercoat has delivered. For 33 years we antifouled, doing everything ourselves--sanding down, filling patches, painting etc etc. Now that our combined ages approach 143 ( Judy has just reached her 30's ) I look for every labour saving device to complement the best labour saving yacht we have ever owned. Coppercoat has proved one such.

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada, Greece


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Barry Connor via groups.io <connor_barry@...>
Sent: 29 October 2020 15:03
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat
 
Hi Paul,
I have gone 9 months and no problem. CopperCoat been on for over 3 years now.
On another issue. I have changed the the lifting pistons on my windscreen in preparation for replacement. Can’t get to Grenada yet. See photo. I put a centre attachment for easier closing. Calling it the “EZ Close” New pistons are each 150n. I have a 300n piston if anyone who has an early 54 with the single piston needs a replacement. I changed because I couldn’t get a 300n piston.
 
Very Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 

On Oct 29, 2020, at 10:30, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:



Hi all,

 

With Coppercoat, my understanding is that scraping should be done 2-4 times a year depending on where you are. My question is: does it matter of the hull is not scraped for an extended period, say 9-12 months? Would this make it any more difficult to clean the hull later? Or even be detrimental in any way?

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: A question about coppercoat

Barry Connor
 

Hi Paul,
I have gone 9 months and no problem. CopperCoat been on for over 3 years now.
On another issue. I have changed the the lifting pistons on my windscreen in preparation for replacement. Can’t get to Grenada yet. See photo. I put a centre attachment for easier closing. Calling it the “EZ Close” New pistons are each 150n. I have a 300n piston if anyone who has an early 54 with the single piston needs a replacement. I changed because I couldn’t get a 300n piston.
 
Very Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 

On Oct 29, 2020, at 10:30, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:



Hi all,

 

With Coppercoat, my understanding is that scraping should be done 2-4 times a year depending on where you are. My question is: does it matter of the hull is not scraped for an extended period, say 9-12 months? Would this make it any more difficult to clean the hull later? Or even be detrimental in any way?

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


A question about coppercoat

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Hi all,

 

With Coppercoat, my understanding is that scraping should be done 2-4 times a year depending on where you are. My question is: does it matter of the hull is not scraped for an extended period, say 9-12 months? Would this make it any more difficult to clean the hull later? Or even be detrimental in any way?

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: Differences between Super Maramu (SM) and Super Maramu 2000 (SM2000; SM2k)

Mark McGovern
 
Edited

Jim,

That's because there really is no one definitive list.  Although there was a definitive name change to Super Maramu 2000, some of the design changes were made BEFORE the name change and some were made after.  Throw in all the minor revisions made over the years, the engine changes, and the many different options offered by Amel (dive compressor, diesel heater, watermakers, comfort pack, etc.) and you will begin to see that while ALL SMs are all more alike than they are different, each individual one is a bit unique.  From a cost/joy of ownership standpoint, you will likely be happier with an early SM that has been lovingly and well maintained by her owner(s) vs an SM 2000 that has been neglected by her owner(s) for the last 15 years.

That said, here are a few links discussing the differences between an SM and the SM 2000:  
https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/topic/29758905#15849
https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/topic/29762066#23099
https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/topic/66433839#49441

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Differences between Super Maramu (SM) and Super Maramu 2000 (SM2000; SM2k)

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

In case this helps you in the interim, this is an old Cruisers Forum post which could be helpful in addition to contacting Joel - https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f47/difference-between-amel-models-137037.html

Cheers
Colin Streeter

On Thu, Oct 29, 2020 at 1:13 PM Bill Schwanitz <billschwanitz@...> wrote:
Jim, After you talk to Joel, would you please post your findings back to the group?

Thanks,
Bill



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: Differences between Super Maramu (SM) and Super Maramu 2000 (SM2000; SM2k)

Bill Schwanitz
 

Jim, After you talk to Joel, would you please post your findings back to the group?

Thanks,
Bill


Re: Differences between Super Maramu (SM) and Super Maramu 2000 (SM2000; SM2k)

 

I agree...Joel Potter can be reached at Joel Potter <jfpottercys"at"att.net>

He owned 2 SMs and 1 54..He specializes in selling Amels. 

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Oct 28, 2020 at 8:26 PM Courtney Gorman via groups.io <Itsfun1=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Your best bet would be to reach out to Joel Potter 


On Oct 28, 2020, at 9:18 PM, jimbo ken <jimbokennedy@...> wrote:

I have searched the group but can not find anything that lists what are the main differences between the early SM and the SM 2000 - could somebody please point me to the post if they know it or list the top differences - 

Jim


Re: Differences between Super Maramu (SM) and Super Maramu 2000 (SM2000; SM2k)

Courtney Gorman
 

Your best bet would be to reach out to Joel Potter 


On Oct 28, 2020, at 9:18 PM, jimbo ken <jimbokennedy@...> wrote:

I have searched the group but can not find anything that lists what are the main differences between the early SM and the SM 2000 - could somebody please point me to the post if they know it or list the top differences - 

Jim


Differences between Super Maramu (SM) and Super Maramu 2000 (SM2000; SM2k)

jimbo ken
 

I have searched the group but can not find anything that lists what are the main differences between the early SM and the SM 2000 - could somebody please point me to the post if they know it or list the top differences - 

Jim


Re: winterizing the watermaker

 

Ryan,

As I said, it was from someone else and I have zero experience winterizing...as I tell everyone, I am allergic to cold.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Oct 28, 2020 at 1:19 PM Ryan Meador <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote:
Miles,

Where/how do you connect your hand pump to the flow meter and other tubes?

Bill,
I appreciate the additional instructions, but as with so many winterization instructions for this unit, they mainly talk about the seawater side.  The fresh water side seems to be almost an afterthought -- "take care ... there is no fresh water inside".  I don't know how to put that into practice.

We're expecting the first freeze of the year this Friday night, and our boat is already on the hard.

Thanks,

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Salem, MA, USA


On Wed, Oct 28, 2020 at 1:08 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Recently a trusted owner wrote the following:
Winterizing: Recommend using -50F degrees non-toxic water system antifreeze. (2 gallons for a D160)
With the pressure regulator fully counter-clockwise, pump this into the inlet of the high-pressure pump
and through the membrane tubes under minimum pressure. Once the solution has been pumped in, turn
the pressure regulator valve fully clockwise to close it off and retain the solution inside the membrane
tubes. Make sure to blow out the product water lines - take care to make sure there is no fresh water
inside the product flow meter tube. Open, drain, and clean the pre-filter housings.

Disclaimer: I have no experience in winterizing...brrrrr

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Oct 28, 2020 at 11:43 AM Miles <milesbid@...> wrote:

Ryan,

 

I have a small hand pump.  I connect the plastic tube to the flow meter and pump it full of pink stuff, and continue pumping until I think the surrounding tubes are full.  I also use this on the hot water pipes. 

 

Miles

 

s/y Ladybug,  sm216  200 miles off Bermuda heading south.


Re: winterizing the watermaker

Ryan Meador
 

Miles,

Where/how do you connect your hand pump to the flow meter and other tubes?

Bill,
I appreciate the additional instructions, but as with so many winterization instructions for this unit, they mainly talk about the seawater side.  The fresh water side seems to be almost an afterthought -- "take care ... there is no fresh water inside".  I don't know how to put that into practice.

We're expecting the first freeze of the year this Friday night, and our boat is already on the hard.

Thanks,

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Salem, MA, USA


On Wed, Oct 28, 2020 at 1:08 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Recently a trusted owner wrote the following:
Winterizing: Recommend using -50F degrees non-toxic water system antifreeze. (2 gallons for a D160)
With the pressure regulator fully counter-clockwise, pump this into the inlet of the high-pressure pump
and through the membrane tubes under minimum pressure. Once the solution has been pumped in, turn
the pressure regulator valve fully clockwise to close it off and retain the solution inside the membrane
tubes. Make sure to blow out the product water lines - take care to make sure there is no fresh water
inside the product flow meter tube. Open, drain, and clean the pre-filter housings.

Disclaimer: I have no experience in winterizing...brrrrr

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Oct 28, 2020 at 11:43 AM Miles <milesbid@...> wrote:

Ryan,

 

I have a small hand pump.  I connect the plastic tube to the flow meter and pump it full of pink stuff, and continue pumping until I think the surrounding tubes are full.  I also use this on the hot water pipes. 

 

Miles

 

s/y Ladybug,  sm216  200 miles off Bermuda heading south.


Re: winterizing the watermaker

 

Recently a trusted owner wrote the following:
Winterizing: Recommend using -50F degrees non-toxic water system antifreeze. (2 gallons for a D160)
With the pressure regulator fully counter-clockwise, pump this into the inlet of the high-pressure pump
and through the membrane tubes under minimum pressure. Once the solution has been pumped in, turn
the pressure regulator valve fully clockwise to close it off and retain the solution inside the membrane
tubes. Make sure to blow out the product water lines - take care to make sure there is no fresh water
inside the product flow meter tube. Open, drain, and clean the pre-filter housings.

Disclaimer: I have no experience in winterizing...brrrrr

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Oct 28, 2020 at 11:43 AM Miles <milesbid@...> wrote:

Ryan,

 

I have a small hand pump.  I connect the plastic tube to the flow meter and pump it full of pink stuff, and continue pumping until I think the surrounding tubes are full.  I also use this on the hot water pipes. 

 

Miles

 

s/y Ladybug,  sm216  200 miles off Bermuda heading south.


Re: winterizing the watermaker

Miles
 

Ryan,

 

I have a small hand pump.  I connect the plastic tube to the flow meter and pump it full of pink stuff, and continue pumping until I think the surrounding tubes are full.  I also use this on the hot water pipes. 

 

Miles

 

s/y Ladybug,  sm216  200 miles off Bermuda heading south.

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