Date   

Re: A question about coppercoat

Matt Salatino
 

Oh, CC is about 2X the cost of conventional bottom paint.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Oct 30, 2020, at 7:44 AM, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:

Can coppercoat be applied by an owner or does it need to be applied by a dealer ? If it can be installed by an owner ,what would you estimate the cost of materials would be . I had the impression that there was mixed reviews on this product,but you guys seem very pleased with it. I have my hull down to the gel coat and ready to apply a barrier coat soon ,so I could go with any bottom protection at this point.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Park <parkianj@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Oct 30, 2020 4:33 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat




Begin forwarded message:

From: Ian Park <sunbeat2@...>
Date: 29 October 2020 at 18:14:18 GMT
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re:  [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat

Paul,
Confirm what others have said. We usually get a layer of slime in tropical waters, less so in colder northern waters. It comes off easily with a nylon abrasive pad, or with jet wash on a haul out. If you get shell a scraper works very well.
I share Pen Azen’s ages and comments. When you’ve done the anti foul cycle enough times it’s a joy to have a Coppercoat.
PS I think many AMEL owners have often been told its cheating to have all these buttons for furling and reefing the sails - but I’ve done my share of being jet washed on the foredeck and love the comfort of my Santorin (and not having antifoul coloured measles off the paint roller).

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96 Locked down again North Wales!


Re: A question about coppercoat

Matt Salatino
 

We applied CC ourselves.
It’s not easy.
First, CC is not paint. It is a 2 part epoxy with copper powder (more like dust) mixed in. Two factors to deal with:
1) the copper does not stay in suspension. It must be mixed constantly. This takes one person.
2) it’s epoxy. If the weather is warm, you have limited time to apply it before it “kicks”.

The constant mixing on a warm day insures a relatively short working time before it hardens in the paint tray, so you must mix many, small batches, and work fast.

Lastly, and very important, you must let the CC cure for 4 days on the hard, then sand it. Any epoxy will coat (encapsulate) whatever particle is introduced. Unsanded CC is not anti fouling. You must sand it to expose the copper metal for it to be antifouling. Sanding is a critical step.

There are published directions in applying CC yourself.
The first step is removing all old paint, and having a very clean hull to start. We are members of the yacht club that the US distributor of CC belongs to, so we had excellent technical direction, and followed all instructions, exactly. There are no shortcuts to applying CC.
That said, my wife (the mixer) and I applied it ourselves, doing one side of the hull each day (so two days to apply) and one day to sand, 4 days later. It was difficult, but worth it. We sold the boat two years ago. It’s on its 7th year with no problems.
When necessary to repaint, we will have CC applied again. We’ll likely pay someone to do it.....we’re getting old.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Oct 30, 2020, at 7:44 AM, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:

Can coppercoat be applied by an owner or does it need to be applied by a dealer ? If it can be installed by an owner ,what would you estimate the cost of materials would be . I had the impression that there was mixed reviews on this product,but you guys seem very pleased with it. I have my hull down to the gel coat and ready to apply a barrier coat soon ,so I could go with any bottom protection at this point.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Park <parkianj@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Oct 30, 2020 4:33 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat




Begin forwarded message:

From: Ian Park <sunbeat2@...>
Date: 29 October 2020 at 18:14:18 GMT
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re:  [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat

Paul,
Confirm what others have said. We usually get a layer of slime in tropical waters, less so in colder northern waters. It comes off easily with a nylon abrasive pad, or with jet wash on a haul out. If you get shell a scraper works very well.
I share Pen Azen’s ages and comments. When you’ve done the anti foul cycle enough times it’s a joy to have a Coppercoat.
PS I think many AMEL owners have often been told its cheating to have all these buttons for furling and reefing the sails - but I’ve done my share of being jet washed on the foredeck and love the comfort of my Santorin (and not having antifoul coloured measles off the paint roller).

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96 Locked down again North Wales!


Re: Bow Thruster Amps rating.

Chris Doucette
 


Thanks everyone!  My setup has me in 4 groups of 100AH 12V Battle Borns @24v (400AH).  I have each group's positives and negatives aggregating to corresponding bus bars that then lead to the battery box posts.  I have an AMP ANL-style fuse holder in-line on the positive bus bar.  Everything I touch on this boat is going to be fused / breakered out appropriately.  I'll start with the 500amp and move up to 600 if needed.  

Bill Kinney- basically doing what you have done with your 24v / 12v distribution. I am going to work backwards from distribution and  "Unstack" the main Amel switches and move all the cables to bus bars (4 of them Engine Pos, Engine Neg, House load Pos, House Neg.) proper fusing closest to distribution and breakered out for switching. Same goes with any of the 12v distributions. All with appropriate marine wire, fittings, and labeling. 

On the AC side I am removing the Amel Auto Priority Gen / Shore Power priority switch (yes it has severed her well so far) in favor of a manual rotary Gen-Off_Shore switch..  Just for my peace of mind. 

Chris 


Re: A question about coppercoat

Ian Park
 

We put our own copper coat on in Trinidad, just the two of us. In the heat it did need thinning down. We did a third of the hull at a time. We did not put a barrier coat on as it is an epoxy mixture itself. This was our advice from Copper Coat Uk. If you go on the website you can calculate the amount you need. The main cause of failure is not continuously stirring the mixture during application to keep the copper flakes evenly distributed in the resin. Another cause is not putting all the coats on immediately the previous one is at the ‘tacky stage‘. Sometimes ‘professional workers’ put a layer on the whole boat Then leave the next coat till the next day.
Our friends did their boat at the same time with one person continuously mixing the next batch while 6 people With rollers continuously applied it.
Bottom line is that it is not much more difficult than anti fouling. On the plus side it is water based so cleaning rollers, hands etc it is less messy and less toxic.


A question about coppercoat

Ruslan Osmonov
 

Hi Pat, check this out https://youtu.be/6JkCzOZ9k_Q 
they had few failures, but at the end worked out. 
Good summary on things to watch out for.
They have few videos on their saga with copercoat, this is the last one when they finally made it work, if you up for it and have time.

On Fri, Oct 30, 2020 at 7:45 AM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Can coppercoat be applied by an owner or does it need to be applied by a dealer ? If it can be installed by an owner ,what would you estimate the cost of materials would be . I had the impression that there was mixed reviews on this product,but you guys seem very pleased with it. I have my hull down to the gel coat and ready to apply a barrier coat soon ,so I could go with any bottom protection at this point.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Park <parkianj@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Oct 30, 2020 4:33 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat




Begin forwarded message:

From: Ian Park <sunbeat2@...>
Date: 29 October 2020 at 18:14:18 GMT
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re:  [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat

Paul,
Confirm what others have said. We usually get a layer of slime in tropical waters, less so in colder northern waters. It comes off easily with a nylon abrasive pad, or with jet wash on a haul out. If you get shell a scraper works very well.
I share Pen Azen’s ages and comments. When you’ve done the anti foul cycle enough times it’s a joy to have a Coppercoat.
PS I think many AMEL owners have often been told its cheating to have all these buttons for furling and reefing the sails - but I’ve done my share of being jet washed on the foredeck and love the comfort of my Santorin (and not having antifoul coloured measles off the paint roller).

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96 Locked down again North Wales!


Re: A question about coppercoat

Patrick McAneny
 

Can coppercoat be applied by an owner or does it need to be applied by a dealer ? If it can be installed by an owner ,what would you estimate the cost of materials would be . I had the impression that there was mixed reviews on this product,but you guys seem very pleased with it. I have my hull down to the gel coat and ready to apply a barrier coat soon ,so I could go with any bottom protection at this point.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Park <parkianj@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Oct 30, 2020 4:33 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat




Begin forwarded message:

From: Ian Park <sunbeat2@...>
Date: 29 October 2020 at 18:14:18 GMT
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re:  [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat

Paul,
Confirm what others have said. We usually get a layer of slime in tropical waters, less so in colder northern waters. It comes off easily with a nylon abrasive pad, or with jet wash on a haul out. If you get shell a scraper works very well.
I share Pen Azen’s ages and comments. When you’ve done the anti foul cycle enough times it’s a joy to have a Coppercoat.
PS I think many AMEL owners have often been told its cheating to have all these buttons for furling and reefing the sails - but I’ve done my share of being jet washed on the foredeck and love the comfort of my Santorin (and not having antifoul coloured measles off the paint roller).

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96 Locked down again North Wales!


Re: Main Furler - Sail stuck / jammed

Alan Leslie
 

With a winch handle locked into the manual furling socket and a line around it to the  base of the mast to prevent it from turning.
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Main Furler - Sail stuck / jammed

Santorin LO
 

As suspected and expected - did Bills's step by step, literally in 5 mins crisis is over! 

Thanks you all. Now another thing, the gear seem to be weak / maybe finished (from before the episode), and looks like will have to do at least one leg without. Now when easily furling/unfurling manually, was thinking - how to 'lock' furled in sail without fitting the gear back to its place???


Re: A question about coppercoat

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Many thanks to all for the feedback on this. I can now happily leave the scraping until we get back to Grenada.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Ian Park
Sent: 30 October 2020 09:33
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat

 

 


Begin forwarded message:

From: Ian Park <sunbeat2@...>
Date: 29 October 2020 at 18:14:18 GMT
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re:  [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat

Paul,
Confirm what others have said. We usually get a layer of slime in tropical waters, less so in colder northern waters. It comes off easily with a nylon abrasive pad, or with jet wash on a haul out. If you get shell a scraper works very well.
I share Pen Azen’s ages and comments. When you’ve done the anti foul cycle enough times it’s a joy to have a Coppercoat.
PS I think many AMEL owners have often been told its cheating to have all these buttons for furling and reefing the sails - but I’ve done my share of being jet washed on the foredeck and love the comfort of my Santorin (and not having antifoul coloured measles off the paint roller).

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96 Locked down again North Wales!


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


A question about coppercoat

Ian Park
 




Begin forwarded message:

From: Ian Park <sunbeat2@...>
Date: 29 October 2020 at 18:14:18 GMT
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re:  [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat

Paul,
Confirm what others have said. We usually get a layer of slime in tropical waters, less so in colder northern waters. It comes off easily with a nylon abrasive pad, or with jet wash on a haul out. If you get shell a scraper works very well.
I share Pen Azen’s ages and comments. When you’ve done the anti foul cycle enough times it’s a joy to have a Coppercoat.
PS I think many AMEL owners have often been told its cheating to have all these buttons for furling and reefing the sails - but I’ve done my share of being jet washed on the foredeck and love the comfort of my Santorin (and not having antifoul coloured measles off the paint roller).

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96 Locked down again North Wales!


Re: Bow Thruster Amps rating.

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

SM 316 with 8 100Ah battery ...

JLM


Le 30/10/2020 à 06:42, eric freedman a écrit :

Hi Jean Luc,
What model Amel do you have?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Sm 376 Kimberite

On October 30, 2020 at 1:21 AM "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

On CottonBay I messured in the past the bow thruster curent :

https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/photo/84720/1?p=Created,,,20,2,0,0

Jean Luc

CottonBay



Le 29/10/2020 à 21:46, Karen Smith via groups.io a écrit :
Our SM#160 bow thruster draws about 485 Amps when it is running.  The exact power calculation is complicated because the voltage is not steady at 24 volts, but drops quickly, and significantly, under this load.  The reason the wire looks undersized by standard calculations is that it operates on a very short duty cycle, so heating of the wire is minimal.  If you were to try to push 500 Amps through that wire for an hour, you'd have a real problem.  

At least on our boat, the "bow thruster" cable carries all the 24V power to everything forward of the forward saloon bulkhead.  Mast and genoa furlers, cabin lights, nav lights, windlass...

We have fused our battery bank in two different ways, and both worked well. Keep in mind we have a bank of 4 pairs of batteries, smaller than yours which I believe is 6 pairs.  

Our batteries were first fused with four 125 Amp rated battery terminal fuses, one on each 24V positive, for a total of 500 Amps.  With 6 pairs of batteries you'd end up in the about same place with 80 or 90 Amp rated fuses.  When we changed battery brands, the terminal fuse holders no longer fit under the battery box lid, so we switched to a singe 500 AMP ANL-style fuse.  Never have any of these tripped.

We have also reworked the whole 24 volt distribution system so EACH of the wires leaving the battery box has a fuse appropriate to its ampacity, and the switches now interrupt current to everything except the bilge pump circuit.  To me this is a really basic safety issue.  If there was ever to be an electrical fire on the boat, or a piece of runaway equipment, I need to know I can shut off the power to everything without delay.

On the boats I have seen, Amel was very inconsistent about what wires they connected to which side of the main switches. On our boat, only the battery charger, bilge pump, and "always on 12V converter" were connected to the unswitched side. I think on later boats they just ran out of space on the stud on the switched side, so were forced to move wires to the unswitched post. 

Bill Kinney
SM#160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD

 

 


Re: Bow Thruster Amps rating.

Eric Freedman
 

Hi Jean Luc,
What model Amel do you have?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Sm 376 Kimberite

On October 30, 2020 at 1:21 AM "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

On CottonBay I messured in the past the bow thruster curent :

https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/photo/84720/1?p=Created,,,20,2,0,0

Jean Luc

CottonBay



Le 29/10/2020 à 21:46, Karen Smith via groups.io a écrit :
Our SM#160 bow thruster draws about 485 Amps when it is running.  The exact power calculation is complicated because the voltage is not steady at 24 volts, but drops quickly, and significantly, under this load.  The reason the wire looks undersized by standard calculations is that it operates on a very short duty cycle, so heating of the wire is minimal.  If you were to try to push 500 Amps through that wire for an hour, you'd have a real problem.  

At least on our boat, the "bow thruster" cable carries all the 24V power to everything forward of the forward saloon bulkhead.  Mast and genoa furlers, cabin lights, nav lights, windlass...

We have fused our battery bank in two different ways, and both worked well. Keep in mind we have a bank of 4 pairs of batteries, smaller than yours which I believe is 6 pairs.  

Our batteries were first fused with four 125 Amp rated battery terminal fuses, one on each 24V positive, for a total of 500 Amps.  With 6 pairs of batteries you'd end up in the about same place with 80 or 90 Amp rated fuses.  When we changed battery brands, the terminal fuse holders no longer fit under the battery box lid, so we switched to a singe 500 AMP ANL-style fuse.  Never have any of these tripped.

We have also reworked the whole 24 volt distribution system so EACH of the wires leaving the battery box has a fuse appropriate to its ampacity, and the switches now interrupt current to everything except the bilge pump circuit.  To me this is a really basic safety issue.  If there was ever to be an electrical fire on the boat, or a piece of runaway equipment, I need to know I can shut off the power to everything without delay.

On the boats I have seen, Amel was very inconsistent about what wires they connected to which side of the main switches. On our boat, only the battery charger, bilge pump, and "always on 12V converter" were connected to the unswitched side. I think on later boats they just ran out of space on the stud on the switched side, so were forced to move wires to the unswitched post. 

Bill Kinney
SM#160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD

 

 


Re: Bow Thruster Amps rating.

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

On CottonBay I messured in the past the bow thruster curent :

https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/photo/84720/1?p=Created,,,20,2,0,0

Jean Luc

CottonBay



Le 29/10/2020 à 21:46, Karen Smith via groups.io a écrit :
Our SM#160 bow thruster draws about 485 Amps when it is running.  The exact power calculation is complicated because the voltage is not steady at 24 volts, but drops quickly, and significantly, under this load.  The reason the wire looks undersized by standard calculations is that it operates on a very short duty cycle, so heating of the wire is minimal.  If you were to try to push 500 Amps through that wire for an hour, you'd have a real problem.  

At least on our boat, the "bow thruster" cable carries all the 24V power to everything forward of the forward saloon bulkhead.  Mast and genoa furlers, cabin lights, nav lights, windlass...

We have fused our battery bank in two different ways, and both worked well. Keep in mind we have a bank of 4 pairs of batteries, smaller than yours which I believe is 6 pairs.  

Our batteries were first fused with four 125 Amp rated battery terminal fuses, one on each 24V positive, for a total of 500 Amps.  With 6 pairs of batteries you'd end up in the about same place with 80 or 90 Amp rated fuses.  When we changed battery brands, the terminal fuse holders no longer fit under the battery box lid, so we switched to a singe 500 AMP ANL-style fuse.  Never have any of these tripped.

We have also reworked the whole 24 volt distribution system so EACH of the wires leaving the battery box has a fuse appropriate to its ampacity, and the switches now interrupt current to everything except the bilge pump circuit.  To me this is a really basic safety issue.  If there was ever to be an electrical fire on the boat, or a piece of runaway equipment, I need to know I can shut off the power to everything without delay.

On the boats I have seen, Amel was very inconsistent about what wires they connected to which side of the main switches. On our boat, only the battery charger, bilge pump, and "always on 12V converter" were connected to the unswitched side. I think on later boats they just ran out of space on the stud on the switched side, so were forced to move wires to the unswitched post. 

Bill Kinney
SM#160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD


Re: Bow Thruster Amps rating.

Karen Smith
 

Our SM#160 bow thruster draws about 485 Amps when it is running.  The exact power calculation is complicated because the voltage is not steady at 24 volts, but drops quickly, and significantly, under this load.  The reason the wire looks undersized by standard calculations is that it operates on a very short duty cycle, so heating of the wire is minimal.  If you were to try to push 500 Amps through that wire for an hour, you'd have a real problem.  

At least on our boat, the "bow thruster" cable carries all the 24V power to everything forward of the forward saloon bulkhead.  Mast and genoa furlers, cabin lights, nav lights, windlass...

We have fused our battery bank in two different ways, and both worked well. Keep in mind we have a bank of 4 pairs of batteries, smaller than yours which I believe is 6 pairs.  

Our batteries were first fused with four 125 Amp rated battery terminal fuses, one on each 24V positive, for a total of 500 Amps.  With 6 pairs of batteries you'd end up in the about same place with 80 or 90 Amp rated fuses.  When we changed battery brands, the terminal fuse holders no longer fit under the battery box lid, so we switched to a singe 500 AMP ANL-style fuse.  Never have any of these tripped.

We have also reworked the whole 24 volt distribution system so EACH of the wires leaving the battery box has a fuse appropriate to its ampacity, and the switches now interrupt current to everything except the bilge pump circuit.  To me this is a really basic safety issue.  If there was ever to be an electrical fire on the boat, or a piece of runaway equipment, I need to know I can shut off the power to everything without delay.

On the boats I have seen, Amel was very inconsistent about what wires they connected to which side of the main switches. On our boat, only the battery charger, bilge pump, and "always on 12V converter" were connected to the unswitched side. I think on later boats they just ran out of space on the stud on the switched side, so were forced to move wires to the unswitched post. 

Bill Kinney
SM#160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD


Re: Main Furler - Sail stuck / jammed

Santorin LO
 

Agree - but this mainly apply to no normal furl / unfurl under normal circumstances. this must be the reason that in 10 years never had this issue before...


Re: Main Furler - Sail stuck / jammed

Santorin LO
 

Thanks again Bill (and Matt) - your way seem to be the one as well as your observation re the problem description, the one thing I am very confident about, is that if your way doesn't work and you wouldn't be able to suggest another way - no one will...


Re: Main Furler - Sail stuck / jammed

ngtnewington Newington
 

The trick I have found is to make sure there is plenty of outhaul tension. It needs to be tightly rolled in and out, always keeping the outhaul as tight as possible. Keeping a really good eye on it even when it is calm.
I have also found that there needs to be loads of downward tension on the leech. 
On my 54 I use kicker tension in addition to sheet and track to keep that leech tension tight. 
If for a moment I do not pay close attention then a jam ensues.
Ironically the stronger the wind the less likely a jam. Maybe it is the concentration of the mind rather than anything else.

Nick
Amelia
Amel54 -019
Leros Gr




On 29 Oct 2020, at 20:13, Matt Salatino via groups.io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

We furled too loosely and jammed once. We got ours loose the same way. Back and forth, tighten the furler, tighten the outhaul, loosen a bit, then repeat... a lot.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Oct 29, 2020, at 2:04 PM, Courtney Gorman via groups.io <Itsfun1@...> wrote:

Start by furling as tightly as possible then streach the out haul loosen and repeat 


On Oct 29, 2020, at 2:00 PM, Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:

Do as Bill says and use the winch handle, but on my previous boat (not AMEL) the furling main jammed a few times - usually when rolled too loosely. I found it helped to pull downwards hard on the leach of the sail. You may need to release or slacken the short rope on the clew first. It may help too if someone can reach up and push the sail/foil inwards (away from the mast slot). Good luck.


Re: Main Furler - Sail stuck / jammed

Matt Salatino
 

We furled too loosely and jammed once. We got ours loose the same way. Back and forth, tighten the furler, tighten the outhaul, loosen a bit, then repeat... a lot.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Oct 29, 2020, at 2:04 PM, Courtney Gorman via groups.io <Itsfun1@...> wrote:

Start by furling as tightly as possible then streach the out haul loosen and repeat 


On Oct 29, 2020, at 2:00 PM, Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:

Do as Bill says and use the winch handle, but on my previous boat (not AMEL) the furling main jammed a few times - usually when rolled too loosely. I found it helped to pull downwards hard on the leach of the sail. You may need to release or slacken the short rope on the clew first. It may help too if someone can reach up and push the sail/foil inwards (away from the mast slot). Good luck.


Re: Bow Thruster Amps rating.

Eric Freedman
 

The bow thruster is If I recall correctly is 10 HP. 10 hp x 746 watts is 7460 watts without any loss .I would add at east 10% for that, 8200 watts/24=342 amps.
That would be dismissing and loss in the feed to the motor. If you look at the motor you will see multiple heavy gauge wires going to the motor.
Fair Winds
Eric

On October 29, 2020 at 2:38 PM Philippe Belloir <pbelloir@...> wrote:

It s forbidden to violat W=VxA, :-) so you have to make a deal with 7000 and/or 510. I guess 24 is right.
Possible you can see W on the motor ?



Philippe Belloir  
+33 781 709 791


-------- Message d'origine --------
De : Chris Doucette <amaroksailing@...>
Date : 29/10/2020 19:23 (GMT+01:00)
À : "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators" <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Objet : [AmelYachtOwners] Bow Thruster Amps rating.


Hi- maybe someone can help me understand... The Super Maramu 2k Manual shows that the bow thruster draws 7000W and 510A at 24V.  Is this correct?  If so, how does the math work out?  W=VxA is violated AND no reasonable wire size is rated for that 24v DC..\

 I am trying to properly fuse my battery bank and this beast is the crux.

Chris 
SV Amarok 285

 

 


Re: Bow Thruster Amps rating.

 

Chris,

We shouldn't get into a discussion of what is right or wrong, but rather work to help you. Maybe the math is French math or Texan math, but it will draw as much as around 500 amps. Additionally, the bow thruster wire from the battery switch to the bow thruster is connected to the battery side of the switch. 

You might consider a batter terminal fuse for each battery. That would be my suggestion. In addition, you might also consider a 500 amp time-delay fuse located near the bus bar located near the bow thruster at the termination of the wire from the battery switch.
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Oct 29, 2020 at 1:23 PM Chris Doucette <amaroksailing@...> wrote:

Hi- maybe someone can help me understand... The Super Maramu 2k Manual shows that the bow thruster draws 7000W and 510A at 24V.  Is this correct?  If so, how does the math work out?  W=VxA is violated AND no reasonable wire size is rated for that 24v DC..\

 I am trying to properly fuse my battery bank and this beast is the crux.

Chris 
SV Amarok 285

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