Re: New 175 am alternator
Stephan, 175 amps of 24 volts is a lot, but if you do change to a bigger alternator, you will likely need to increase the size of the wire from the battery bank switch to the 24-volt alternator. You will also probably need to change belts and pulleys. I really loved the fact the on the Yanmar engine all 3 belts were exactly the same. Additionally, if the Leece-Neville 24-volt, 175 amp alternator is still working, I can think of several SM owners who will want to buy it. It is very difficult to find an alternator with that high of amperage and that is built as good as the Leece-Neville. Let me know if you want to sell it and I will pass the information to those interested. Bill
On Fri, Oct 30, 2020 at 2:33 PM Stefan and Anne Deerberg <stefan.deerberg@...> wrote: Dear all!
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New 175 am alternator
Dear all!
we bought our OYA, a SM 2000, 373 in April. now we want to change the alternator to a bigger 175 amp. The engine is still the original Yanmar 75hp from 2002. Is there anyone with good experience with a special brand? Do we have to pay attention to something when converting? Which alternator fits this engine? thanks for your ideas, tips and experience Stefan SV OYA, SM 373, Carriacou / Grenada
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.Re: LiFePO4 Conversion on sv BeBe - SM#387
rossirossix4
Maybe I missed it but does the ability to put 12 lithiums in our SM Redline models solve the high amp problem?? In theory the 4 extra 31 series provide 50% more amp capacity. KAIMI SM429 2004 Redline Emeritus BRITTANY DE LA MER SN86
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Re: Bow Thruster Amps rating.
Hi, On my maramu I have a Leroy Sommer motor 12v 500A 6000w Philippe Belloir +33 781 709 791
-------- Message d'origine -------- De : Chris Doucette <amaroksailing@...> Date : 30/10/2020 18:25 (GMT+01:00) À : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Objet : Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow Thruster Amps rating. I certainly will share what I land on here.. Also In the Class-T vs ANL. The Class-T max out at 400A (what you have and seems to be working). I chose ANL due that I can put one on at the the Amp rating that will match the bow thruster (thus my original question of this thread). I guess I will find out if it blows! It seems here there is not a write or wrong- but it is good to see others being safe as well. Here is a good guide I found to fuses, use, and sizes. http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/Quick_Guide_to_Blue_Sea_Systems_Fuses_and_Fuse_Holders.pdf
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Re: A question about coppercoat
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Hi Arnold,
We have had no need to clean and grind Coppercoat in the ten years that we have had it , other than occasionally wiping off slime after a few months which we can do swimming.
Have a look at the Coppercoat website--I think you will find that their major market is commercial vessels, oil rigs etc They know about long water times and the huge cost of taking vessels out of use for maintenance.
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada, Greece
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Matt Salatino via groups.io <helmsmatt@...>
Sent: 30 October 2020 17:17 To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io> Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat We’ve only sanded once, 4 days after application. That was 7 years ago.
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
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Re: Bow Thruster Amps rating.
Chris Doucette
Hi Dan,
I certainly will share what I land on here.. Also In the Class-T vs ANL. The Class-T max out at 400A (what you have and seems to be working). I chose ANL due that I can put one on at the the Amp rating that will match the bow thruster (thus my original question of this thread). I guess I will find out if it blows! It seems here there is not a write or wrong- but it is good to see others being safe as well. Here is a good guide I found to fuses, use, and sizes. http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/Quick_Guide_to_Blue_Sea_Systems_Fuses_and_Fuse_Holders.pdf
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Re: A question about coppercoat
We’ve only sanded once, 4 days after application. That was 7 years ago.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Oct 30, 2020, at 1:03 PM, Arnold Mente via groups.io <Arnold.mente@...> wrote:
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Re: A question about coppercoat
We have hauled every hurricane season to store our boat. CC is a hard epoxy. One nice feature is, when cleaning slime, you can take a 6” metal putty knife to scrape it with no ill effects. Straps won’t affect it. No worries.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Oct 30, 2020, at 12:49 PM, Ruslan Osmonov <rosmonov@...> wrote:
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Re: A question about coppercoat
From my point of view, the elementary problem is that you still have to go to the crane every year to clean it and grind it again so that it works.
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Of course, this increases the costs if you don't want to get out of the water every year. My personal recommendation for those with long water times is still the tried and tested antifoulings for 2 or 3 years (Micron, Seajet ..). This form may be helpful for yachts that do not have epoxy protection under water from the shipyard. My personal question is always why is it not used by commercial shipping? Best Arnold SV Zephyr SM203 Am 30.10.2020 um 17:49 schrieb Ruslan Osmonov <rosmonov@...>: Does CopperCoat stay in tact when hauling out? Given it is epoxy mix coats, I assume so, but still would like to ask. I use regular ablative water based antifoul and every year my boat has marks from straps. and where the straps go, antifoul paint is mostly wiped off and needs painting.
-- Arnold SY Zephyr SM203
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Re: A question about coppercoat
Ruslan Osmonov
Does CopperCoat stay in tact when hauling out? Given it is epoxy mix coats, I assume so, but still would like to ask. I use regular ablative water based antifoul and every year my boat has marks from straps. and where the straps go, antifoul paint is mostly wiped off and needs painting.
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Re: A question about coppercoat
CopperCoat has been the least expensive antifoul I’ve ever used. Spread that “high” cost across 10 or more years.... Matt ~~~_/|)~~~ A50#27
On Friday, October 30, 2020, 10:05:24 AM CST, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:
Craig, That sounds expensive, but I spent $1500.00 on bottom paint a couple of years ago. If you got six years for $2300. ,that would work out pretty well,if it works for you ,seems to have had different results for different people ,probably application error.
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris@...> To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Sent: Fri, Oct 30, 2020 11:20 am Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat Hi Pat - check out coppercoatusa.com - they list an SM as needing 18 "Kits" for $2340. Site is a "must read and study".
-- Cheer, SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: A question about coppercoat
Yes, CC can be applied over barrier coat. Follow their directions.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I applied four coats as they directed. The coats go on thin and it doesn’t look right until the second or third coat. I can’t over emphasize following their directions to the letter. ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Oct 30, 2020, at 10:37 AM, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:
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Re: A question about coppercoat
Patrick McAneny
Craig, That sounds expensive, but I spent $1500.00 on bottom paint a couple of years ago. If you got six years for $2300. ,that would work out pretty well,if it works for you ,seems to have had different results for different people ,probably application error.
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris@...> To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Sent: Fri, Oct 30, 2020 11:20 am Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat Hi Pat - check out coppercoatusa.com - they list an SM as needing 18 "Kits" for $2340. Site is a "must read and study".
-- Cheer, SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: A question about coppercoat
Hi Pat - check out coppercoatusa.com - they list an SM as needing 18 "Kits" for $2340. Site is a "must read and study". It is a totally different animal than conventional bottom paint and requires 4 coats applied one after another in one session.
-- Cheer, SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Bow Thruster Amps rating.
Hi Chris, Please share pictures of how things look after you “unstack” the main switches. I have been considering that as well.
Here are a few responses to your ideas:
Would also be interested in more information on where you mount and how you wire your rotary switch when you get that installed.
Thanks and regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, sm #387
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Chris Doucette
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2020 8:55 AM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io> Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow Thruster Amps rating.
Thanks everyone! My setup has me in 4 groups of 100AH 12V Battle Borns @24v (400AH). I have each group's positives and negatives aggregating to corresponding bus bars that then lead to the battery box posts. I have an AMP ANL-style fuse holder in-line on the positive bus bar. Everything I touch on this boat is going to be fused / breakered out appropriately. I'll start with the 500amp and move up to 600 if needed.
Bill Kinney- basically doing what you have done with your 24v / 12v distribution. I am going to work backwards from distribution and "Unstack" the main Amel switches and move all the cables to bus bars (4 of them Engine Pos, Engine Neg, House load Pos, House Neg.) proper fusing closest to distribution and breakered out for switching. Same goes with any of the 12v distributions. All with appropriate marine wire, fittings, and labeling.
On the AC side I am removing the Amel Auto Priority Gen / Shore Power priority switch (yes it has severed her well so far) in favor of a manual rotary Gen-Off_Shore switch.. Just for my peace of mind. Chris
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Re: A question about coppercoat
Patrick McAneny
Matt, How many coats of CC do you apply. I am fairing some holes in my gel coat and then plan to overcoat with Interprotect 2000. Can CC be applied over a barrier coat?
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Salatino via groups.io <helmsmatt@...> To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Sent: Fri, Oct 30, 2020 9:09 am Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A question about coppercoat Oh, CC is about 2X the cost of conventional bottom paint.
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
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Re: A question about coppercoat
Oh, CC is about 2X the cost of conventional bottom paint.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Oct 30, 2020, at 7:44 AM, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:
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Re: A question about coppercoat
We applied CC ourselves.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
It’s not easy. First, CC is not paint. It is a 2 part epoxy with copper powder (more like dust) mixed in. Two factors to deal with: 1) the copper does not stay in suspension. It must be mixed constantly. This takes one person. 2) it’s epoxy. If the weather is warm, you have limited time to apply it before it “kicks”. The constant mixing on a warm day insures a relatively short working time before it hardens in the paint tray, so you must mix many, small batches, and work fast. Lastly, and very important, you must let the CC cure for 4 days on the hard, then sand it. Any epoxy will coat (encapsulate) whatever particle is introduced. Unsanded CC is not anti fouling. You must sand it to expose the copper metal for it to be antifouling. Sanding is a critical step. There are published directions in applying CC yourself. The first step is removing all old paint, and having a very clean hull to start. We are members of the yacht club that the US distributor of CC belongs to, so we had excellent technical direction, and followed all instructions, exactly. There are no shortcuts to applying CC. That said, my wife (the mixer) and I applied it ourselves, doing one side of the hull each day (so two days to apply) and one day to sand, 4 days later. It was difficult, but worth it. We sold the boat two years ago. It’s on its 7th year with no problems. When necessary to repaint, we will have CC applied again. We’ll likely pay someone to do it.....we’re getting old. ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Oct 30, 2020, at 7:44 AM, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:
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Re: Bow Thruster Amps rating.
Chris Doucette
Thanks everyone! My setup has me in 4 groups of 100AH 12V Battle Borns @24v (400AH). I have each group's positives and negatives aggregating to corresponding bus bars that then lead to the battery box posts. I have an AMP ANL-style fuse holder in-line on the positive bus bar. Everything I touch on this boat is going to be fused / breakered out appropriately. I'll start with the 500amp and move up to 600 if needed. Bill Kinney- basically doing what you have done with your 24v / 12v distribution. I am going to work backwards from distribution and "Unstack" the main Amel switches and move all the cables to bus bars (4 of them Engine Pos, Engine Neg, House load Pos, House Neg.) proper fusing closest to distribution and breakered out for switching. Same goes with any of the 12v distributions. All with appropriate marine wire, fittings, and labeling. On the AC side I am removing the Amel Auto Priority Gen / Shore Power priority switch (yes it has severed her well so far) in favor of a manual rotary Gen-Off_Shore switch.. Just for my peace of mind. Chris
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Re: A question about coppercoat
Ian Park
We put our own copper coat on in Trinidad, just the two of us. In the heat it did need thinning down. We did a third of the hull at a time. We did not put a barrier coat on as it is an epoxy mixture itself. This was our advice from Copper Coat Uk. If you go on the website you can calculate the amount you need. The main cause of failure is not continuously stirring the mixture during application to keep the copper flakes evenly distributed in the resin. Another cause is not putting all the coats on immediately the previous one is at the ‘tacky stage‘. Sometimes ‘professional workers’ put a layer on the whole boat Then leave the next coat till the next day.
Our friends did their boat at the same time with one person continuously mixing the next batch while 6 people With rollers continuously applied it. Bottom line is that it is not much more difficult than anti fouling. On the plus side it is water based so cleaning rollers, hands etc it is less messy and less toxic.
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