Date   

Amel SM Boom Slider Mounts to Hang Blocks and Preventer

 

SM owners,

As many of you know there have been some issues with the Main Boom Aluminum Slider Mounts cracking and failing.
image.png
Mat Day, the new owner of SM 209 ADAGIO has a great solution that you might want to take advantage of. He has a friend with the knowledge, engineering software, and equipment to make this for your SM Boom:
image.png
The following is what Matt Day wrote:
6061 Aluminum
316 Stainless bushings and set screws
Hard anodized @ 0.050" penetration

The guy's name is Phil McGloin [513-907-1601; pmcgloin@...].  He is one hell of a solid Mechanical Engineer and owns a Prototyping Machine Shop (PnP Tech Works LLC).  I have working with him for several years.

If anyone is looking for an engineer/machinist to help out, he is a solid resource.  It's hard to find persons with solid technical and practical skills.  Phil is one of the best I have worked with.  He has 3 additional parts available if anyone is interested at $325(+ shipping).

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


Re: New Thread on A54 fridge pumps (ATTN: OLIVER Vela Nautica)

Scott SV Tengah
 

Update: I now have the brush less fridge pump motor up and running. It's self priming by virtue of using the flojet pump head. 

It has a brushless motor which theoretically will last much much longer than the brushed flojet motors. Every single flojet failure I had prior was due to the brushes wearing down and the commutator getting scored beyond repair. 

I surmise the next failure point will be either bearings or the diaphragm in the pump head. I have multiple slightly used backups by virtue of my old failed pumps and also replacing those parts is cheap and possible. 

I've been working with Oliver on this prototype for a while now and it has delivered. A few kinks need to be worked out and today I'll try to measure water output from the old flojet and adjust the speed of the brush less motor to match it. I think frigoboat wants 6l per minute. 

Up shot is that it should last far longer. At my current motor speed it is drawing 60% less power then the flojet brushed motor. Even with two fridges on and the freezer, the freezer evaporator plate, which I think is last to get cooling water is showing -26c so I think current flow rate is sufficient but I'll verify objectively. 

I still have a stock flojet next to it in case this pump dies. That's more about me wanting redundancy because I'm reasonably confident this will far outlast the multiple flojets that I've chewed through. 
 

-- 
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Just completed a 2900nm tough passage - two little switches almost ruined my month: Bilge Float Switch and Volvo D3-110C auxiliary stop

Scott SV Tengah
 

Jamie, 

Sorry for the slow reply. 

I haven't installed it yet but I have an additional one of these aboard: 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JOK11K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_BwgJiFawCYt3r

Plan would be to zip tie the sensor somewhere along the outside of the tube. The alarm unit itself will be mounted on the cavity behind the water maker panel or near the steering rack.

The included cable is a little less than 2 meters but it's 9v and the instructions explicitly say you can extend it. I figure 3 meters total should be more than enough. 

This is the same alarm I installed by the stuffing box. Works like a charm. 




--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Deck cap replacement for head pump out fitting

Ryan Meador
 

I've been searching for replacements for these caps since almost the day we bought our boat, and I haven't found them anywhere -- but that was before the very helpful info from Bill!  I settled on buying some pin pliers, which allow opening and closing the broken fittings.  Those pliers come in handy for all kinds of other things as well, like tensioning the alternator belt.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Salem, MA, USA


On Thu, Nov 12, 2020 at 10:22 AM Kevin Schmit <kevschmit64@...> wrote:
Bill

You never cease to amaze....thanks.

Kevin


On Nov 12, 2020, at 9:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


You can buy these in a number of places. They are 50mm or 2 inches.

Here is a snippet from a page in my Amel Book.
<image.png>


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Nov 12, 2020 at 7:22 AM Kevin Schmit <kevschmit64@...> wrote:
Good morning,

I contacted Maude looking for a replacement deck cap fitting for my head pump out tank but was informed Amel does not carry that part anymore.

Has anyone sourced this part elsewhere?





Kevin
SM#362 Kiana (formerly Nomad)
Charleston SC






Re: Deck cap replacement for head pump out fitting

Kevin Schmit
 

Bill

You never cease to amaze....thanks.

Kevin


On Nov 12, 2020, at 9:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


You can buy these in a number of places. They are 50mm or 2 inches.

Here is a snippet from a page in my Amel Book.
<image.png>


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Nov 12, 2020 at 7:22 AM Kevin Schmit <kevschmit64@...> wrote:
Good morning,

I contacted Maude looking for a replacement deck cap fitting for my head pump out tank but was informed Amel does not carry that part anymore.

Has anyone sourced this part elsewhere?





Kevin
SM#362 Kiana (formerly Nomad)
Charleston SC






Re: Deck cap replacement for head pump out fitting

 

You can buy these in a number of places. They are 50mm or 2 inches.

Here is a snippet from a page in my Amel Book.
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Nov 12, 2020 at 7:22 AM Kevin Schmit <kevschmit64@...> wrote:
Good morning,

I contacted Maude looking for a replacement deck cap fitting for my head pump out tank but was informed Amel does not carry that part anymore.

Has anyone sourced this part elsewhere?





Kevin
SM#362 Kiana (formerly Nomad)
Charleston SC






Re: Main electric switches

Paul Osterberg
 

James
Great thank you 
Paul 


Deck cap replacement for head pump out fitting

Kevin Schmit
 

Good morning,

I contacted Maude looking for a replacement deck cap fitting for my head pump out tank but was informed Amel does not carry that part anymore.

Has anyone sourced this part elsewhere?





Kevin
SM#362 Kiana (formerly Nomad)
Charleston SC


Re: Main electric switches

James Alton
 

Paul,

   My boat is a Maramu but the switch in your photo looks to be the same one that I ordered last year from Amel.  The switch was in stock and Maud shipped it out right away.  The bolts are copper to provide good conductivity so they are not super strong.  

Best of luck,

James

Photo of the switch Amel sent me:

unknown.jpg

On Nov 12, 2020, at 7:46 AM, Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:

One of the bolts on my main switch broke off. Anyone know if they still exist or do I need to replace it with another model? 
Paul on sykerpa SM 259 Lagos Portugal  <IMG_20201112_124134.jpg><IMG_20201112_124146.jpg>


Re: Desallator 230v 160 LPH watermaker fault

Dan Carlson
 

Thanks James and thanks Bill for the responses.

I did disconnect the HP Switch and the water-maker worked fine. No over pressure, no over current, the usual production of water quantity and quality for a little over an hour of run time.  

I'll add the HP switch to my parts list and continue to operate the water-maker as is with a close eye to the gauges and ear for any change in sound.  I think the HP switch primarily protects the membranes from HP damage.  The HP pump still has the circuit breaker as an additional protection from overload.

Regarding the Capacitors, that was also a good reminder. I did replace them four years ago and have not seen any changes in current draw.

Thanks and regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387, currently in Bermuda



On Wed, Nov 11, 2020, 3:49 PM James Cromie via groups.io <jamescromie=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Dan - It sounds like your problem may be rooted in the HP switch as you sate, but I am curious if anyone on board was able to watch in the engine room to determine if the first event to occur was the high pressure pump shutting down.  
Is it possible that the HP motor capacitors need replacing?   That would be easy to check if you have a capacitance meter.  
Are you drawing the same current with the water maker on as you did in the past? 

Just a thought.  

-James
SV Soteria 
SM2K347

On Nov 11, 2020, at 08:33, Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:

Good morning all,   On sv BeBe, SM#387,  I have the original Dessalator 230v 160LPH water-maker. 

Today was the first time I this season that I have tried to run the water maker (as we were in the muddy Chesapeake Bay with  ready access to decent city water..).  The membranes had been auto-flushed with fresh water for 2 minutes, twice per week while away and I had tested that both the low and HP pumps were functional through the initial start-up sequence. 

I started up the water-maker according to procedure with the pressure control valve initially all the way anti-clockwise (no pressure) and the  product water diverted to a sink faucet.   The low pressure pump kicked on and the low pressure gauge read the typical 12 o-clock reading.  After the typical delay the high pressure pump kicked on and the low pressure guage dropped slightly to about 10:30 (as typical).   After the "green" light came on I began to very slowly increase the pressure with the needle valve.   I stopped when I just reached just below the green zone on the HP gauge and product water began to come out of the faucet.   During this time the product quality lights had gone from green to amber when water began to flow and then back to green after a few seconds of product flow.   I began my usual 30 second count after the product quality light turns green before sampling and testing the water quality with my tongue and TDS meter, before I would then divert the water to the fresh water tank.  All during this time I was watching both the high and low pressure gauges for any fluctuation and none was seen.  I had given the water a taste test and was about to pull the sample for the TDS check when the water-maker shut down with the red "alarm" light.  I turned off the water-maker switch, and the 230v breaker, re-set the pressure control valve, and  checked for any obvious leaks or ? in the engine room.   After those checks I went through the same sequence and had the exact same shutdown approximately 30 seconds after the water quality light went back to green.   On the third try when I turned the water-maker switch back on it went directly to alarm mode. 

After searching the Amel Desallator manuals on-board, and searching this forum I also performed the following troubleshooting: 
1) removed the panel in the locker and checked for any noticeable corrosion, 
2) I checked the fuse in the Desallator control box and it was tight and did not appear to be blown, 
3) checked for any tripped breakers or appearance of any burning around the relays,
3) I checked for any corrosion around the TDS probe and it appeared in good condition. 
4) There is a reference in the Desallator manual to an adjustment screw on the HP switch but neither of the switches in the manual resembled the switch on the back of the panel.   There is a screw in the back of this switch and I made a small attempt to turn it but did not force any movement.  (Picture attached)  Does anyone know if this HP Switch can be adjusted?   Or if it is recommended to remove it and possible clean it out?   Or further tests. 

- At this point I believe that the indications are that there is probably an issue with the HP Switch, but I would like confirmation from others or suggestions of other troubleshooting steps.   
- are there further steps to  either adjust the HP switch or clean the HP switch? 
- In the forum there were comments that owners had disconnected and run the water-maker without the HP switch in the circuit, but I would also like a little more confirmation and advice on how to go about this before taking this next step.   
- Also, at this stage when I turn the water-maker on it goes directly to the Alarm state.  Is there a re-set button that I have not found? or is that indicative of a failed HP switch. 

As background:  twice last season I did have the water-maker shutdown in a similar manner.  Once after it has been running some time (45 minutes? ) and another time shortly after start-up.   In neither case was I immediately attending to the water-maker and it subsequently re-started with no issues and no root cause found at the time. 

Thanks and regards,  Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387
<HP Switch.jpg>


Main electric switches

Paul Osterberg
 

One of the bolts on my main switch broke off. Anyone know if they still exist or do I need to replace it with another model? 
Paul on sykerpa SM 259 Lagos Portugal 


Re: Installing a diesel heater

Paul Osterberg
 

Thank you all, very useful information for us. 
Paul on sykerpa SM 259 Lagos Portugal 


Re: Lewmar Hatch Gasket

Barry Connor
 

Hi Mark,
Just replaced all Lewmar hatch lenses due to stains on the acrylics.
All the replacement lenses came with new seals.
I have all the old seals in perfect condition.
2 x size 54, 3 x size 50, 1 x size 60 and 1 x size 70.
If someone is in need I can ship from here in Martinique. Just pay the shipping and “Pay it On” to another Amel owner.

Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 
Ph local:+596 (0) 696 50 90 49
Boat Ph: +1 305 907 8611
Cell Ph: +44 (0) 7790 399900


On Nov 11, 2020, at 16:12, Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...> wrote:

In need of a Lewmar Medium Profile Hatch gasket size 50 - found a deal that may include free freight and a 10% discount.  Hurry before they are gone!
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54
<Lewmar Med Profile Gskt Sale.JPG>


Re: Bow Thruster Amel 54

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Great as always. Thank you very much Bill. 
Regards Ruedi

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Montag, 9. November 2020 um 02:23
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow Thruster Amel 54

Hi Rudi, yes, you need to decouple the lower unit from the motor. In my experience, this will be difficult if it has not been decoupled in a few years. It will very likely require some heavy-duty mechanical pullers. It is likely that you will need to replace the soft coupling when doing this job. 

There is an Amel procedure for decoupling the SidePower Bow Truster, but it is not very complete and probably will not help much. There is a SidePower publication as well. I wrote a procedure including some photos I took, my personal experience in doing this job, SidePower's information and the Amel procedure. It is in my Amel Book. However, you should be able to do this without my book, if you use the Amel procedure: (https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/files/Bow%20Thruster%20maintenance%20A54/A54_Bowthruster%20flex%20coupling%20replacement.pdf).

If it is stuck, like I believe you will find, you will likely need the help of a machine shop and mechanical pullers.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Nov 8, 2020 at 4:57 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:
Hi Doug,  - your post is great and helpful information. Thank you!

I have a question for the Group; - how can I change the seals of the Sidepower-BT?
Do I need to dismount the complete device to replace the Donut foam seals at the bottom?

Does anyone have a handbook how to proceed to change the seals including the lip-seals?

Thanks and best 
Ruedi Waldispühl
WASABI A54-#55

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of "Doug Smith via groups.io" <dugsmith98@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Montag, 2. November 2020 um 19:48
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow Thruster Amel 54

I wanted to add to the information available for the bow thrusters for Amel 54’s.  Mine wasn’t going up or down, and when it was down, it wasn’t going to starboard.  If you are having difficulty with your thruster or just want to understand it better, these files might help.

 

Doug Smith

S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113

Deltaville, VA USA

 


Lewmar Hatch Gasket

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

In need of a Lewmar Medium Profile Hatch gasket size 50 - found a deal that may include free freight and a 10% discount.  Hurry before they are gone!
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Desallator 230v 160 LPH watermaker fault

James Cromie
 

Hi Dan - It sounds like your problem may be rooted in the HP switch as you sate, but I am curious if anyone on board was able to watch in the engine room to determine if the first event to occur was the high pressure pump shutting down.  
Is it possible that the HP motor capacitors need replacing?   That would be easy to check if you have a capacitance meter.  
Are you drawing the same current with the water maker on as you did in the past? 

Just a thought.  

-James
SV Soteria 
SM2K347

On Nov 11, 2020, at 08:33, Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:

Good morning all,   On sv BeBe, SM#387,  I have the original Dessalator 230v 160LPH water-maker. 

Today was the first time I this season that I have tried to run the water maker (as we were in the muddy Chesapeake Bay with  ready access to decent city water..).  The membranes had been auto-flushed with fresh water for 2 minutes, twice per week while away and I had tested that both the low and HP pumps were functional through the initial start-up sequence. 

I started up the water-maker according to procedure with the pressure control valve initially all the way anti-clockwise (no pressure) and the  product water diverted to a sink faucet.   The low pressure pump kicked on and the low pressure gauge read the typical 12 o-clock reading.  After the typical delay the high pressure pump kicked on and the low pressure guage dropped slightly to about 10:30 (as typical).   After the "green" light came on I began to very slowly increase the pressure with the needle valve.   I stopped when I just reached just below the green zone on the HP gauge and product water began to come out of the faucet.   During this time the product quality lights had gone from green to amber when water began to flow and then back to green after a few seconds of product flow.   I began my usual 30 second count after the product quality light turns green before sampling and testing the water quality with my tongue and TDS meter, before I would then divert the water to the fresh water tank.  All during this time I was watching both the high and low pressure gauges for any fluctuation and none was seen.  I had given the water a taste test and was about to pull the sample for the TDS check when the water-maker shut down with the red "alarm" light.  I turned off the water-maker switch, and the 230v breaker, re-set the pressure control valve, and  checked for any obvious leaks or ? in the engine room.   After those checks I went through the same sequence and had the exact same shutdown approximately 30 seconds after the water quality light went back to green.   On the third try when I turned the water-maker switch back on it went directly to alarm mode. 

After searching the Amel Desallator manuals on-board, and searching this forum I also performed the following troubleshooting: 
1) removed the panel in the locker and checked for any noticeable corrosion, 
2) I checked the fuse in the Desallator control box and it was tight and did not appear to be blown, 
3) checked for any tripped breakers or appearance of any burning around the relays,
3) I checked for any corrosion around the TDS probe and it appeared in good condition. 
4) There is a reference in the Desallator manual to an adjustment screw on the HP switch but neither of the switches in the manual resembled the switch on the back of the panel.   There is a screw in the back of this switch and I made a small attempt to turn it but did not force any movement.  (Picture attached)  Does anyone know if this HP Switch can be adjusted?   Or if it is recommended to remove it and possible clean it out?   Or further tests. 

- At this point I believe that the indications are that there is probably an issue with the HP Switch, but I would like confirmation from others or suggestions of other troubleshooting steps.   
- are there further steps to  either adjust the HP switch or clean the HP switch? 
- In the forum there were comments that owners had disconnected and run the water-maker without the HP switch in the circuit, but I would also like a little more confirmation and advice on how to go about this before taking this next step.   
- Also, at this stage when I turn the water-maker on it goes directly to the Alarm state.  Is there a re-set button that I have not found? or is that indicative of a failed HP switch. 

As background:  twice last season I did have the water-maker shutdown in a similar manner.  Once after it has been running some time (45 minutes? ) and another time shortly after start-up.   In neither case was I immediately attending to the water-maker and it subsequently re-started with no issues and no root cause found at the time. 

Thanks and regards,  Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387
<HP Switch.jpg>


Re: Dessalator 230v 160 LPH watermaker fault

Porter McRoberts
 

Dear Dan,

Agree with both suggestions.  
Either the HP sensor is the issue, or the board believes it does not reach adequate high pressure. Agree with placing needle dead in the green to high within the cutout time period. Also unscrewing the sending wire from the HP sensor. But since the HP pressure sensor works in micro current, unscrew cap, paint in some Corosion X and reseat cap. The sensor may be on its way out, but at least you will get all the amperage you can from it, until it fails completely down the line. 

The watermaker I’m sure as you know is a very simple process made complex by the sensing, and for good reason, a drop in pressure in the ER is very bad. In water makers. And patients. 

Beat of luck Dan!


Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152 (160-230v Dessalator)
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Nov 11, 2020, at 7:01 AM, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:



Hello Dan;

 

We have the same water maker aboard Kokomo. However, I’m not sure if it is the same or a later design. Going through your procedure, I have one recommendation. I see that you state that you increase the high pressure until you are just below the green zone on your HP gauge. The system will go into a fault status and stop, if the pressure does not pass a certain threshold within a certain amount of time  after the HP pump kicks on. I do not know what these thresholds are or how they are measured.  Also, in talking to Dessalator support, Martin Dee Jong, on several issues over the years, he has always recommended to keep the pressure of the HP pump on the high side of green, just shy of the red zone. He stated the reasoning as the unit is very capable of handling this pressure setting 24x7x365 and there is no reason to lower the pressure and reduce the amount if water being produced. We have followed this advice for the past 5 years and currently have over 600 hours on our original 11 year old membranes that still put out water in the 250 PPM range. As a side note, he also stated that there’s no need to back flush, as long as you are producing water at least once a week, which we always do, when on board.

 

I would recommend trying to increase the HP pump setting in the mid to upper range of the green zone. It may be that the sensitivity of the sensors that gauge the pressure and time may have changed over time.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dan Carlson via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2020 8:34 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Desallator 230v 160 LPH watermaker fault

 

Good morning all,   On sv BeBe, SM#387,  I have the original Dessalator 230v 160LPH water-maker. 

Today was the first time I this season that I have tried to run the water maker (as we were in the muddy Chesapeake Bay with  ready access to decent city water..).  The membranes had been auto-flushed with fresh water for 2 minutes, twice per week while away and I had tested that both the low and HP pumps were functional through the initial start-up sequence. 

I started up the water-maker according to procedure with the pressure control valve initially all the way anti-clockwise (no pressure) and the  product water diverted to a sink faucet.   The low pressure pump kicked on and the low pressure gauge read the typical 12 o-clock reading.  After the typical delay the high pressure pump kicked on and the low pressure guage dropped slightly to about 10:30 (as typical).   After the "green" light came on I began to very slowly increase the pressure with the needle valve.   I stopped when I just reached just below the green zone on the HP gauge and product water began to come out of the faucet.   During this time the product quality lights had gone from green to amber when water began to flow and then back to green after a few seconds of product flow.   I began my usual 30 second count after the product quality light turns green before sampling and testing the water quality with my tongue and TDS meter, before I would then divert the water to the fresh water tank.  All during this time I was watching both the high and low pressure gauges for any fluctuation and none was seen.  I had given the water a taste test and was about to pull the sample for the TDS check when the water-maker shut down with the red "alarm" light.  I turned off the water-maker switch, and the 230v breaker, re-set the pressure control valve, and  checked for any obvious leaks or ? in the engine room.   After those checks I went through the same sequence and had the exact same shutdown approximately 30 seconds after the water quality light went back to green.   On the third try when I turned the water-maker switch back on it went directly to alarm mode. 

After searching the Amel Desallator manuals on-board, and searching this forum I also performed the following troubleshooting: 
1) removed the panel in the locker and checked for any noticeable corrosion, 
2) I checked the fuse in the Desallator control box and it was tight and did not appear to be blown, 
3) checked for any tripped breakers or appearance of any burning around the relays,
3) I checked for any corrosion around the TDS probe and it appeared in good condition. 
4) There is a reference in the Desallator manual to an adjustment screw on the HP switch but neither of the switches in the manual resembled the switch on the back of the panel.   There is a screw in the back of this switch and I made a small attempt to turn it but did not force any movement.  (Picture attached)  Does anyone know if this HP Switch can be adjusted?   Or if it is recommended to remove it and possible clean it out?   Or further tests. 

- At this point I believe that the indications are that there is probably an issue with the HP Switch, but I would like confirmation from others or suggestions of other troubleshooting steps.   
- are there further steps to  either adjust the HP switch or clean the HP switch? 
- In the forum there were comments that owners had disconnected and run the water-maker without the HP switch in the circuit, but I would also like a little more confirmation and advice on how to go about this before taking this next step.   
- Also, at this stage when I turn the water-maker on it goes directly to the Alarm state.  Is there a re-set button that I have not found? or is that indicative of a failed HP switch. 

As background:  twice last season I did have the water-maker shutdown in a similar manner.  Once after it has been running some time (45 minutes? ) and another time shortly after start-up.   In neither case was I immediately attending to the water-maker and it subsequently re-started with no issues and no root cause found at the time. 

Thanks and regards,  Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387


Re: Dessalator 230v 160 LPH watermaker fault

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Dan,

On my 54 I have had a similar experience.  After the unit has been shut down for the winter, when I recommission the boat, this automatic shut down happens sometimes. I have found that it is the low pressure pump that is not primed. These pumps are not self priming. 

Try running it a couple of times, or even manually priming the pump. 

Nick

S/Y Amelia Leros Gr
AML 54-019

On 11 Nov 2020, at 17:01, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hello Dan;
 
We have the same water maker aboard Kokomo. However, I’m not sure if it is the same or a later design. Going through your procedure, I have one recommendation. I see that you state that you increase the high pressure until you are just below the green zone on your HP gauge. The system will go into a fault status and stop, if the pressure does not pass a certain threshold within a certain amount of time  after the HP pump kicks on. I do not know what these thresholds are or how they are measured.  Also, in talking to Dessalator support, Martin Dee Jong, on several issues over the years, he has always recommended to keep the pressure of the HP pump on the high side of green, just shy of the red zone. He stated the reasoning as the unit is very capable of handling this pressure setting 24x7x365 and there is no reason to lower the pressure and reduce the amount if water being produced. We have followed this advice for the past 5 years and currently have over 600 hours on our original 11 year old membranes that still put out water in the 250 PPM range. As a side note, he also stated that there’s no need to back flush, as long as you are producing water at least once a week, which we always do, when on board.
 
I would recommend trying to increase the HP pump setting in the mid to upper range of the green zone. It may be that the sensitivity of the sensors that gauge the pressure and time may have changed over time.
 
Happy Sailing;
 
 
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
AMEL 54 #099
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dan Carlson via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2020 8:34 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Desallator 230v 160 LPH watermaker fault
 
Good morning all,   On sv BeBe, SM#387,  I have the original Dessalator 230v 160LPH water-maker. 

Today was the first time I this season that I have tried to run the water maker (as we were in the muddy Chesapeake Bay with  ready access to decent city water..).  The membranes had been auto-flushed with fresh water for 2 minutes, twice per week while away and I had tested that both the low and HP pumps were functional through the initial start-up sequence. 

I started up the water-maker according to procedure with the pressure control valve initially all the way anti-clockwise (no pressure) and the  product water diverted to a sink faucet.   The low pressure pump kicked on and the low pressure gauge read the typical 12 o-clock reading.  After the typical delay the high pressure pump kicked on and the low pressure guage dropped slightly to about 10:30 (as typical).   After the "green" light came on I began to very slowly increase the pressure with the needle valve.   I stopped when I just reached just below the green zone on the HP gauge and product water began to come out of the faucet.   During this time the product quality lights had gone from green to amber when water began to flow and then back to green after a few seconds of product flow.   I began my usual 30 second count after the product quality light turns green before sampling and testing the water quality with my tongue and TDS meter, before I would then divert the water to the fresh water tank.  All during this time I was watching both the high and low pressure gauges for any fluctuation and none was seen.  I had given the water a taste test and was about to pull the sample for the TDS check when the water-maker shut down with the red "alarm" light.  I turned off the water-maker switch, and the 230v breaker, re-set the pressure control valve, and  checked for any obvious leaks or ? in the engine room.   After those checks I went through the same sequence and had the exact same shutdown approximately 30 seconds after the water quality light went back to green.   On the third try when I turned the water-maker switch back on it went directly to alarm mode. 

After searching the Amel Desallator manuals on-board, and searching this forum I also performed the following troubleshooting:  
1) removed the panel in the locker and checked for any noticeable corrosion, 
2) I checked the fuse in the Desallator control box and it was tight and did not appear to be blown, 
3) checked for any tripped breakers or appearance of any burning around the relays,
3) I checked for any corrosion around the TDS probe and it appeared in good condition. 
4) There is a reference in the Desallator manual to an adjustment screw on the HP switch but neither of the switches in the manual resembled the switch on the back of the panel.   There is a screw in the back of this switch and I made a small attempt to turn it but did not force any movement.  (Picture attached)  Does anyone know if this HP Switch can be adjusted?   Or if it is recommended to remove it and possible clean it out?   Or further tests. 

- At this point I believe that the indications are that there is probably an issue with the HP Switch, but I would like confirmation from others or suggestions of other troubleshooting steps.   
- are there further steps to  either adjust the HP switch or clean the HP switch? 
- In the forum there were comments that owners had disconnected and run the water-maker without the HP switch in the circuit, but I would also like a little more confirmation and advice on how to go about this before taking this next step.   
- Also, at this stage when I turn the water-maker on it goes directly to the Alarm state.  Is there a re-set button that I have not found? or is that indicative of a failed HP switch. 

As background:  twice last season I did have the water-maker shutdown in a similar manner.  Once after it has been running some time (45 minutes? ) and another time shortly after start-up.   In neither case was I immediately attending to the water-maker and it subsequently re-started with no issues and no root cause found at the time. 

Thanks and regards,  Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387



Re: Desallator 230v 160 LPH watermaker fault

 

Dan,

Look for an email from me in a few minutes.

A quick workaround is that the Pressure Sensor is a normally open (NO) switch. Disconnecting the electrical leads, takes it out of the circuit.

Also, check the breakers inside the Dessalator Box. A photo will be in the email.

--

 
Best,
 
CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: Dessalator 230v 160 LPH watermaker fault

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hello Dan;

 

We have the same water maker aboard Kokomo. However, I’m not sure if it is the same or a later design. Going through your procedure, I have one recommendation. I see that you state that you increase the high pressure until you are just below the green zone on your HP gauge. The system will go into a fault status and stop, if the pressure does not pass a certain threshold within a certain amount of time  after the HP pump kicks on. I do not know what these thresholds are or how they are measured.  Also, in talking to Dessalator support, Martin Dee Jong, on several issues over the years, he has always recommended to keep the pressure of the HP pump on the high side of green, just shy of the red zone. He stated the reasoning as the unit is very capable of handling this pressure setting 24x7x365 and there is no reason to lower the pressure and reduce the amount if water being produced. We have followed this advice for the past 5 years and currently have over 600 hours on our original 11 year old membranes that still put out water in the 250 PPM range. As a side note, he also stated that there’s no need to back flush, as long as you are producing water at least once a week, which we always do, when on board.

 

I would recommend trying to increase the HP pump setting in the mid to upper range of the green zone. It may be that the sensitivity of the sensors that gauge the pressure and time may have changed over time.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dan Carlson via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2020 8:34 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Desallator 230v 160 LPH watermaker fault

 

Good morning all,   On sv BeBe, SM#387,  I have the original Dessalator 230v 160LPH water-maker. 

Today was the first time I this season that I have tried to run the water maker (as we were in the muddy Chesapeake Bay with  ready access to decent city water..).  The membranes had been auto-flushed with fresh water for 2 minutes, twice per week while away and I had tested that both the low and HP pumps were functional through the initial start-up sequence. 

I started up the water-maker according to procedure with the pressure control valve initially all the way anti-clockwise (no pressure) and the  product water diverted to a sink faucet.   The low pressure pump kicked on and the low pressure gauge read the typical 12 o-clock reading.  After the typical delay the high pressure pump kicked on and the low pressure guage dropped slightly to about 10:30 (as typical).   After the "green" light came on I began to very slowly increase the pressure with the needle valve.   I stopped when I just reached just below the green zone on the HP gauge and product water began to come out of the faucet.   During this time the product quality lights had gone from green to amber when water began to flow and then back to green after a few seconds of product flow.   I began my usual 30 second count after the product quality light turns green before sampling and testing the water quality with my tongue and TDS meter, before I would then divert the water to the fresh water tank.  All during this time I was watching both the high and low pressure gauges for any fluctuation and none was seen.  I had given the water a taste test and was about to pull the sample for the TDS check when the water-maker shut down with the red "alarm" light.  I turned off the water-maker switch, and the 230v breaker, re-set the pressure control valve, and  checked for any obvious leaks or ? in the engine room.   After those checks I went through the same sequence and had the exact same shutdown approximately 30 seconds after the water quality light went back to green.   On the third try when I turned the water-maker switch back on it went directly to alarm mode. 

After searching the Amel Desallator manuals on-board, and searching this forum I also performed the following troubleshooting: 
1) removed the panel in the locker and checked for any noticeable corrosion, 
2) I checked the fuse in the Desallator control box and it was tight and did not appear to be blown, 
3) checked for any tripped breakers or appearance of any burning around the relays,
3) I checked for any corrosion around the TDS probe and it appeared in good condition. 
4) There is a reference in the Desallator manual to an adjustment screw on the HP switch but neither of the switches in the manual resembled the switch on the back of the panel.   There is a screw in the back of this switch and I made a small attempt to turn it but did not force any movement.  (Picture attached)  Does anyone know if this HP Switch can be adjusted?   Or if it is recommended to remove it and possible clean it out?   Or further tests. 

- At this point I believe that the indications are that there is probably an issue with the HP Switch, but I would like confirmation from others or suggestions of other troubleshooting steps.   
- are there further steps to  either adjust the HP switch or clean the HP switch? 
- In the forum there were comments that owners had disconnected and run the water-maker without the HP switch in the circuit, but I would also like a little more confirmation and advice on how to go about this before taking this next step.   
- Also, at this stage when I turn the water-maker on it goes directly to the Alarm state.  Is there a re-set button that I have not found? or is that indicative of a failed HP switch. 

As background:  twice last season I did have the water-maker shutdown in a similar manner.  Once after it has been running some time (45 minutes? ) and another time shortly after start-up.   In neither case was I immediately attending to the water-maker and it subsequently re-started with no issues and no root cause found at the time. 

Thanks and regards,  Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387

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