Date   

Re: Amel 54 masthead tricolour light

Scott SV Tengah
 

On A54 #69, I installed this replacement bulb:

https://store.marinebeam.com/indexed-bayonet-tri-color-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-series-40/

Works like a charm and far brighter than the original LEDs. I did the test for noise, which involves turning your VHF on, with LED off, and adjusting squelch to the point where it eliminates background noise. Then I turn on the LED to see if noise shows up through the previously set squelch setting. If it does, the LED generates noise that the VHF can pick up. For this bulb, it did not. No other deleterious effects that I have noticed.

For the anchor light, I also installed this bulb:

https://store.marinebeam.com/dusk-to-dawn-automatic-photocell-led-anchor-light-bulb/

It's worked great for 2 years already. When we anchor, I just leave the 24v mooring light switch "on" and the light turns on/off automatically as advertised. 

I would suggest bending the tabs a bit on the light fixture and adding some silicone grease. Our tabs were a bit "tired" and also had some very very light surface corrosion.


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Amel 54 masthead tricolour light

Matt Salatino
 

Several years ago, on our previous boat, we installed an OGM LED combo anchor/tricolor mast head light. OGM was supplying to the military, who subsequently put out a warning about LED navigation lights creating radio interference.
Whenever the anchor light came on (photocell controlled), we had to squelch the VHF radio, quite a bit. The LEDs made quite the racket on the VHF, significantly reducing its range. 
We had this problem until we replaced it with  Signalmate unit. It was radio silent. 

~~~⛵️~~~Matt Salatino A50#27, Speed of Life

On Feb 8, 2021, at 10:20 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

If there is any noticeable RFI caused by an LED, a snap on ferrite at each end of the power source should do the trick. If possible buy only LED’s with a FCC Part 18 compliance rating. It is worth noting a few year ago, ARRL published a white paper on RFI and bulbs. It was found “bulbs have generally not proven to be a significant source of RFI”

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2021 4:51 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Amel 54 masthead tricolour light

 

This is what I installed in Aqua Signal 40. It is from Dr LED and I believe that it overcomes most if not all of the issues that Bill K described.

<image001.png>

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Mon, Feb 8, 2021 at 6:47 PM Karen Smith via groups.io <karenharmonie=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I know people do it all the time, but it is generally a bad idea to install LEDs into red and green navigation light fixtures designed for incandescent bulbs, like the Aqua Signal Series 40.

LEDs retrofitted into these fixtures typically do not give the designed brightness with the colored lenses.  "White" LEDs are not truly broad spectrum white light, but actually produce a series of narrow cut frequencies that, when averaged together by our eyes, appear to be white.  The problem is that these bands do not necessarily line up well with the colored lenses that are used to filter the light from an incandescent bulb, so less light, sometimes a LOT less, gets out of the lens than would be true with an incandescent bulb of the same nominal brightness.

You will rarely get the hoped for designed life out of an LED retrofitted into a fixture that is not hermetically sealed.  Lastly, there is the issue of VHF radio interference that is frequently poorly controlled with retrofit bulbs.

If you want to go to LED bulbs, and that is certainly a very good idea for a lot of reasons, it is far better to switch to a fixture designed for them.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Charleston, SC, USA


Re: Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

Chris Doucette
 

There are some white lines tied at the top.  If not, they have been sun rotted and you may just be still in the channel. In this case access them from the wire ports in the bottom of the mast via the wire port.  


On Feb 8, 2021, at 10:14 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:



Thanks! That’s a good tip. Where at the top of the mast is the other end of the cable with foam bits? What is it tied off to?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Chris Doucette
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2021 4:03 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

 

I removed all the wires and mouse lines from my mast this summer. There was lots of silt that made removal of the mouse lines with foam tricky.  They got stuck and twisted in the existing cables.  Once i got one wire out (and pulled more mouse cables) it went well.  Dump 50/50 mixture of dish soap and water down the mast wire chase for some added lube ;) 



On Feb 8, 2021, at 8:52 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:



Thanks Mark!

 

That explains a lot. So, it was the mouse line with the foam dampers you had trouble removing? Is the line with the foam dampers marked in some way? I am assuming I reach it via the removable panel on the side of the mast?

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mark McGovern
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2021 5:58 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

 

Mark,

The foam dampers are attached to a separate mouse line, NOT to the VHF cable or any other cable. 

The idea is that when you need to run a new cable up inside the mast, you:

1.  Tie a new "plain" mouse line to the bottom of the "foam damper" mouse line
2.  Pull the "foam damper" mouse line out the top of the mast
3.  Pull the new cable(s) in the now clear cable chase
4.  Pull the "foam damper" mouse line back in 

Mark

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Amel 54 masthead tricolour light

Mark Erdos
 

One more note on this. If you are replacing an incandescent bulb with an LED be sure to use the correct color to avoid the filtering effect Bill K. mentions. i.e. A red LED goes into a portside light with a red lens (do not use the white LED). This will help keep the light bright.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mark Erdos via groups.io
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2021 5:21 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Amel 54 masthead tricolour light

 

If there is any noticeable RFI caused by an LED, a snap on ferrite at each end of the power source should do the trick. If possible buy only LED’s with a FCC Part 18 compliance rating. It is worth noting a few year ago, ARRL published a white paper on RFI and bulbs. It was found “bulbs have generally not proven to be a significant source of RFI”

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2021 4:51 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Amel 54 masthead tricolour light

 

This is what I installed in Aqua Signal 40. It is from Dr LED and I believe that it overcomes most if not all of the issues that Bill K described.

image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Mon, Feb 8, 2021 at 6:47 PM Karen Smith via groups.io <karenharmonie=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I know people do it all the time, but it is generally a bad idea to install LEDs into red and green navigation light fixtures designed for incandescent bulbs, like the Aqua Signal Series 40.

LEDs retrofitted into these fixtures typically do not give the designed brightness with the colored lenses.  "White" LEDs are not truly broad spectrum white light, but actually produce a series of narrow cut frequencies that, when averaged together by our eyes, appear to be white.  The problem is that these bands do not necessarily line up well with the colored lenses that are used to filter the light from an incandescent bulb, so less light, sometimes a LOT less, gets out of the lens than would be true with an incandescent bulb of the same nominal brightness.

You will rarely get the hoped for designed life out of an LED retrofitted into a fixture that is not hermetically sealed.  Lastly, there is the issue of VHF radio interference that is frequently poorly controlled with retrofit bulbs.

If you want to go to LED bulbs, and that is certainly a very good idea for a lot of reasons, it is far better to switch to a fixture designed for them.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Charleston, SC, USA


Re: Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

Mark Erdos
 

Thanks! That’s a good tip. Where at the top of the mast is the other end of the cable with foam bits? What is it tied off to?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Chris Doucette
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2021 4:03 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

 

I removed all the wires and mouse lines from my mast this summer. There was lots of silt that made removal of the mouse lines with foam tricky.  They got stuck and twisted in the existing cables.  Once i got one wire out (and pulled more mouse cables) it went well.  Dump 50/50 mixture of dish soap and water down the mast wire chase for some added lube ;) 



On Feb 8, 2021, at 8:52 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:



Thanks Mark!

 

That explains a lot. So, it was the mouse line with the foam dampers you had trouble removing? Is the line with the foam dampers marked in some way? I am assuming I reach it via the removable panel on the side of the mast?

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mark McGovern
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2021 5:58 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

 

Mark,

The foam dampers are attached to a separate mouse line, NOT to the VHF cable or any other cable. 

The idea is that when you need to run a new cable up inside the mast, you:

1.  Tie a new "plain" mouse line to the bottom of the "foam damper" mouse line
2.  Pull the "foam damper" mouse line out the top of the mast
3.  Pull the new cable(s) in the now clear cable chase
4.  Pull the "foam damper" mouse line back in 

Mark

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Amel 54 masthead tricolour light

Mark Erdos
 

If there is any noticeable RFI caused by an LED, a snap on ferrite at each end of the power source should do the trick. If possible buy only LED’s with a FCC Part 18 compliance rating. It is worth noting a few year ago, ARRL published a white paper on RFI and bulbs. It was found “bulbs have generally not proven to be a significant source of RFI”

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2021 4:51 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Amel 54 masthead tricolour light

 

This is what I installed in Aqua Signal 40. It is from Dr LED and I believe that it overcomes most if not all of the issues that Bill K described.

image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Mon, Feb 8, 2021 at 6:47 PM Karen Smith via groups.io <karenharmonie=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I know people do it all the time, but it is generally a bad idea to install LEDs into red and green navigation light fixtures designed for incandescent bulbs, like the Aqua Signal Series 40.

LEDs retrofitted into these fixtures typically do not give the designed brightness with the colored lenses.  "White" LEDs are not truly broad spectrum white light, but actually produce a series of narrow cut frequencies that, when averaged together by our eyes, appear to be white.  The problem is that these bands do not necessarily line up well with the colored lenses that are used to filter the light from an incandescent bulb, so less light, sometimes a LOT less, gets out of the lens than would be true with an incandescent bulb of the same nominal brightness.

You will rarely get the hoped for designed life out of an LED retrofitted into a fixture that is not hermetically sealed.  Lastly, there is the issue of VHF radio interference that is frequently poorly controlled with retrofit bulbs.

If you want to go to LED bulbs, and that is certainly a very good idea for a lot of reasons, it is far better to switch to a fixture designed for them.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Charleston, SC, USA


Re: Amel 54 masthead tricolour light

 

This is what I installed in Aqua Signal 40. It is from Dr LED and I believe that it overcomes most if not all of the issues that Bill K described.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Mon, Feb 8, 2021 at 6:47 PM Karen Smith via groups.io <karenharmonie=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
I know people do it all the time, but it is generally a bad idea to install LEDs into red and green navigation light fixtures designed for incandescent bulbs, like the Aqua Signal Series 40.

LEDs retrofitted into these fixtures typically do not give the designed brightness with the colored lenses.  "White" LEDs are not truly broad spectrum white light, but actually produce a series of narrow cut frequencies that, when averaged together by our eyes, appear to be white.  The problem is that these bands do not necessarily line up well with the colored lenses that are used to filter the light from an incandescent bulb, so less light, sometimes a LOT less, gets out of the lens than would be true with an incandescent bulb of the same nominal brightness.

You will rarely get the hoped for designed life out of an LED retrofitted into a fixture that is not hermetically sealed.  Lastly, there is the issue of VHF radio interference that is frequently poorly controlled with retrofit bulbs.

If you want to go to LED bulbs, and that is certainly a very good idea for a lot of reasons, it is far better to switch to a fixture designed for them.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Charleston, SC, USA


Re: Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

Chris Doucette
 

I removed all the wires and mouse lines from my mast this summer. There was lots of silt that made removal of the mouse lines with foam tricky.  They got stuck and twisted in the existing cables.  Once i got one wire out (and pulled more mouse cables) it went well.  Dump 50/50 mixture of dish soap and water down the mast wire chase for some added lube ;) 


On Feb 8, 2021, at 8:52 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:



Thanks Mark!

 

That explains a lot. So, it was the mouse line with the foam dampers you had trouble removing? Is the line with the foam dampers marked in some way? I am assuming I reach it via the removable panel on the side of the mast?

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mark McGovern
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2021 5:58 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

 

Mark,

The foam dampers are attached to a separate mouse line, NOT to the VHF cable or any other cable. 

The idea is that when you need to run a new cable up inside the mast, you:

1.  Tie a new "plain" mouse line to the bottom of the "foam damper" mouse line
2.  Pull the "foam damper" mouse line out the top of the mast
3.  Pull the new cable(s) in the now clear cable chase
4.  Pull the "foam damper" mouse line back in 

Mark

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

Mark Erdos
 

Thanks Mark!

 

That explains a lot. So, it was the mouse line with the foam dampers you had trouble removing? Is the line with the foam dampers marked in some way? I am assuming I reach it via the removable panel on the side of the mast?

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mark McGovern
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2021 5:58 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

 

Mark,

The foam dampers are attached to a separate mouse line, NOT to the VHF cable or any other cable. 

The idea is that when you need to run a new cable up inside the mast, you:

1.  Tie a new "plain" mouse line to the bottom of the "foam damper" mouse line
2.  Pull the "foam damper" mouse line out the top of the mast
3.  Pull the new cable(s) in the now clear cable chase
4.  Pull the "foam damper" mouse line back in 

Mark

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Amel 54 masthead tricolour light

Karen Smith
 

I know people do it all the time, but it is generally a bad idea to install LEDs into red and green navigation light fixtures designed for incandescent bulbs, like the Aqua Signal Series 40.

LEDs retrofitted into these fixtures typically do not give the designed brightness with the colored lenses.  "White" LEDs are not truly broad spectrum white light, but actually produce a series of narrow cut frequencies that, when averaged together by our eyes, appear to be white.  The problem is that these bands do not necessarily line up well with the colored lenses that are used to filter the light from an incandescent bulb, so less light, sometimes a LOT less, gets out of the lens than would be true with an incandescent bulb of the same nominal brightness.

You will rarely get the hoped for designed life out of an LED retrofitted into a fixture that is not hermetically sealed.  Lastly, there is the issue of VHF radio interference that is frequently poorly controlled with retrofit bulbs.

If you want to go to LED bulbs, and that is certainly a very good idea for a lot of reasons, it is far better to switch to a fixture designed for them.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Charleston, SC, USA


SM gelcoat color match

Thomas Kleman
 

We've been frustrated on our SM by the inability to match the color that the original gelcoat (Renault Panda White ?) has faded into, after 17 years. So, as small things like hatch latches chip and break, the repair ends up bothering me because Ive had trouble matching the color as it has faded. Even boatyard masters of gelcoat color matching have been foiled by our Amel.

This week I've been lucky and found an almost exact match (at least for our boat). Autozone sells an automotive/trim accessory paint that hits the bullseye for us. "Wimbledon White", a Ford color (BFM0041-M9A). Supposedly good for fiberglass also. We will see.

Obviously I'd prefer to use gelcoat but these dings are thankfully small and someday when I find the perfect gelcoat match I can reassess. But I thought I'd broadcast our finding in the event someone finds it useful.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
Oahu


Re: Bow thruster tube anomaly

Juan de Zulueta
 

Davi,

Congratulations 🥳 

Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 8 févr. 2021 à 11:46, Matt Salatino via groups.io <helmsmatt@...> a écrit :

Pics of the corrosion?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt Salatino, A50#27, Speed of Life

On Feb 8, 2021, at 9:22 AM, Davi Rozgonyi <davi.rozgonyi@...> wrote:

GOT IT LOOSE! The trick is to clamp that tool without sandpaper and crank it down as tight as humanly possible. Also 3 weeks of wd40. Now to repair the fiberglass gouge. By the way, Maud can make you a new one for 3700 euros, if needs be. Cheers all, thank you so much for talking me through it! 


Re: Where best to locate Raymarine Evolution Autopilot EV-1 Sensor Core on Santorin

Juan de Zulueta
 

Grant,

I have installed two Raymarine acu400 - EV1
the two ev1 are installed on the port side of the boat. They really work perfectly and I crossed the Atlantic last year from St Raphael to Guadeloupe with autopilot on all the time.
I have a super Maramu and my 2 x Acu400 are mounted vertically next each other with a switch.
I don t know if you can install them horizontally.
Juan de Zulueta
ophelie X in Guadeloupe

SM#32


Re: Amel 54 masthead tricolour light

Martin Birkhoff
 
Edited

Hi David,
we sail #40 and she was fitted with an Aqua Signal series 40 tricolor masthead light. We wanted to change to LED too. Controlling the conditions on the masttop we figured out that the original mounting of this tricolor light caused some masking and reduced the visibility to certain angles. We added a support of some 20 cm to set the tricolor light higher and free of any masking and mounted a Hella LED tricolor with anchor light. Product-No. 2LT 980 650-001.

Martin
SY Mago del Sur - 54#40


Re: Amel 54 masthead tricolour light

 

David,

I cannot, but I will warn you that I believe the tricolor fixture changed during the production of the 54. It started with Aqua Signal 40, but I believe changed to something else. I suggest that you check what you have, or you may be disappointed.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Mon, Feb 8, 2021 at 11:24 AM David Crisp <david@...> wrote:
Want to buy and fit LED bulbs to the tricolour masthead light on Wilna Grace - Amel 54  #58.  I believe the fitting is the original one and that it's an Aqua Signal series 40, but can anyone confirm that is the standard fit please?
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: Volvo D3 110 Sea Water Pump - Cover seal

 

Dominque, 

Thanks for that. I wonder about #4 in this drawing. Is it really out of production? Maybe it was replaced with a mechanical seal?
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Mon, Feb 8, 2021 at 10:40 AM Dominique Sery via groups.io <dominiquesery=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello,
Seal number 4 is a lip seal with spring. Quite difficult to change, Volvo offers special tools that are not necessarily indispensable.
Best
Dominique



Amel 54 masthead tricolour light

David Crisp
 

Want to buy and fit LED bulbs to the tricolour masthead light on Wilna Grace - Amel 54  #58.  I believe the fitting is the original one and that it's an Aqua Signal series 40, but can anyone confirm that is the standard fit please?
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: Volvo D3 110 Sea Water Pump - Cover seal

Dominique Sery
 

Hello,
Seal number 4 is a lip seal with spring. Quite difficult to change, Volvo offers special tools that are not necessarily indispensable.
Best
Dominique



Re: Hardtop for Amel 54

Scott SV Tengah
 

Stefan,

Those panels are what I was looking at, but they are significantly more expensive than the 110w ones! Around 3x the cost, if I remember right.

Anyways, I am no electrical engineer but I thought that the series connection across all 4 of your panels would definitely produce more output in perfect conditions due to the higher voltage. But theoretically parallel (or serial-parallel in the case of your 12v panels) should be more shade tolerant and have a smaller reduction in power output when one panel is shaded. Only way to test it is to compare for a longer period than a few hours - say a month :) Anyways, I'm very jealous of your hardtop and the panels on top of it.

We thought we had enough power but we keep finding more ways to use the power. :) We have used the scuba compressor a lot over the last few months so it'd be great if we could add more solar. If I do that, I'm sure I'll find another use for the amps-hours!

On Mon, Feb 8, 2021 at 4:51 PM Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:
Bill,

the panels are 4 x SUNPOWER SPR-E-FLEX-170, 12V each. 
I am happy with them.


Scott,

I tried both possibilities before I made the final wiring.  Amazingly (but maybe I should have waited significantly longer than 4 hours) the series connection (all panels) brought a significantly higher yield (amperes for charging). The serial-parallel connection has to be better theoretically, but was not.
I do not know why this is not like usual.

At least you do not need any more panels in this life ;-) on Tengah.

Best regards
Stefan
A54 # 119 Lady Charlyette, currently Bahamas


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Tips appreciated: Major frustration trying to pull cable through Mizzen.

Mark McGovern
 

Mark,

The foam dampers are attached to a separate mouse line, NOT to the VHF cable or any other cable. 

The idea is that when you need to run a new cable up inside the mast, you:

1.  Tie a new "plain" mouse line to the bottom of the "foam damper" mouse line
2.  Pull the "foam damper" mouse line out the top of the mast
3.  Pull the new cable(s) in the now clear cable chase
4.  Pull the "foam damper" mouse line back in 

Mark

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

3661 - 3680 of 60072