Date   

Re: Problem dismantling the main furler worm gear box

Eric Freedman
 

I drilled and tapped a hole low on one side of the housing and high on the other. I use the autoprop adapter as a means to fill the gearbox.

I pump the grease in the low hole and remove the old grease from the opposite side .

Fair Winds,

Eric

Sm 376 Kimberlite

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of VICTOR MOLERO
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 2:40 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Problem dismantling the main furler worm gear box

 

Ian, thank you sssssooooo much for your detailed explanation and for the good ideas to try. I put my hands on it right away and see what happens. If you have the chance to share a picture of the holes to pump grease in, it will be very helpful. I really do appreciate your help and comments.

Best.

Victor 

SM#314 Alendoy


Re: asymmetrical spinnaker

Eric Freedman
 

I made a bow sprit that sticks out about 2 /12 feet from the bow with a articulated block (Harken)..

It is about 1 ½ inches in diameter and is removable when not used.

Fair Winds,

Eric SM 376 Kimberlite

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Eloi Bamberg
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 7:57 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] asymmetrical spinnaker

 

Hallo,
When i we bought our SM2K, there was an asymmetrical spinnaker (original option with snuffer from Amel) on board but the seller couldn't tell me how to fix it at the bow of the boat. Does anybody know how Amel had planed to fix it at the bow.

regards,

Eloi
SM2K 426 Red Lion


asymmetrical spinnaker

Eloi Bamberg
 

Hallo,
When i we bought our SM2K, there was an asymmetrical spinnaker (original option with snuffer from Amel) on board but the seller couldn't tell me how to fix it at the bow of the boat. Does anybody know how Amel had planed to fix it at the bow.

regards,

Eloi
SM2K 426 Red Lion


Re: Fuel tank inspection port gasket

Billy Newport
 

I just cleaned my tank (Amel 55#56) and I had a solid/complete circular gasket. The problem on mine was fuel can made it past the gasket and was pooled in the center of the gasket. With no "hole", it can go anywhere but there or even worse it "could" get in to the captain berth. As far as I can tell on my boat, that did not happen. But, we did take more care with silicon sealant when reinstalling and we did put sealant on the bolt threads and tighten the bolts more than there were which was quite loose.


Original inverter on SM 2000

Slavko Despotovic
 

I can not figure what type of inverter if any have been a standard part of SM 2000 build in 1999/2000. Can someone help me with this? There is 220V for TV and DDV when we are unplugged from 220V, shore or generator. I am not on the boat currently so I can not check by myself.

Thank you.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Re: Problem dismantling the main furler worm gear box

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Thank you Danny. I'll keep that in mind.
Best.
Victor 


Re: Problem dismantling the main furler worm gear box

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Ian, thank you sssssooooo much for your detailed explanation and for the good ideas to try. I put my hands on it right away and see what happens. If you have the chance to share a picture of the holes to pump grease in, it will be very helpful. I really do appreciate your help and comments.
Best.
Victor 
SM#314 Alendoy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Locker

Joe Sciarrino
 

Dear Thomas : 
                           Can you show us some pictures of what a clean chain locker looks like and how you are accessing it 
Thank you in advance 

Sincerely
Indigo Joe 
SM 169


On Mar 9, 2021, at 3:00 PM, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

I believe Amel didn't glass the bottom of the bow compartment floor because they couldn't without a door being installed. The floor has a slight contour and fitting a pre glassed piece of plywood into the locker to get the contour right would have been very difficult. I did the bow locker floor/ hawse pipe job a few years ago.

On the rusty chain topic though, one overlooked issue in the chain locker is the bottom grate. On #422 the chain rests atop a non removable grate (a false bottom) and under the grate is the drain fitting leading to the bilge. Only way to clear it is to blow air or water into this fitting from the other side. But that clears it, it doesn't clean it. I made my grate removable by cutting a hole in it when I put in my bow locker door and new floor. I vacuum it periodically from inside the chain locker because it clogs from debris on the chain. Now my chain is never sitting in water inside the chain locker.

Tom Kleman
SV L'ORIENT
SM2K 422
Oahu


Re: Problem dismantling the main furler worm gear box

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Victor.

I have found that the end cap holds onto the bearing more that the housing. I have found heating with an ordinary  heat gun helps with both the disasembly and the reasembly.

Danny

Sm 299

Ocean Pearl

On 10 March 2021 at 09:12 VICTOR MOLERO <victor.moleroxx@...> wrote:

Hello all.
I have also dismantled the gearbox of the main's furler because it made a horrible sound and finally didn't have enough strength to move the furler. Now I have the gearbox over my table, and I am not being able to loosen the bolts that hold the side cap that covers the horizontal shaft coming from the motor. So I decided to follow another path by loosening the bolts that are underneath to get out the vertical shaft that actually moves the furler; these bolts came out nicely, but there's no way I can move the cap. Can anyone provide any tip, recommendation or saint to pray to...
Thanks in advance.
Victor
SM#314 Alendoy


Fuel tank inspection port gasket

Thomas Kleman
 

My forward inspection port (the one with the fuel level gauge) is leaking. I decided to change both gaskets but "practice" with the rear most port as it's easier. I was surprised to find that it isn't a gasket at all but a 2/3 eaten rubber disk. I've never had a clog (yet) and there are several baffles between where pieces would fall in the tank and the outlet. A previous owners repair ? Some Amel design feature I don't understand ? Next time I get low on fuel I'm definitely having a good look.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422


Re: Rudder Post Bonding

Adam Body
 

Thanks Eric and Alan..the crawling hunt is on..like a ferret chasing down where these wires go!! A hit of voltaren always helps!
--
Adam Body "Flora"   SM128 Annee 1994


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Locker

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Bob and Suzanne,
That's a great idea!
If I ever get back to Elyse, I'll do that.
I am worried that when / if i do get back on the boat I'll find that the anchor chain is a ball of rust...horror thought.
It's now over a year.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse Sm437


Re: Problem dismantling the main furler worm gear box

Ian Shepherd
 

Victor I have just been through what you are trying to do. If you look carefully at the end caps there are 4 small tapped holes into which you can screw bolts it which will ease the end cap outwards. The problem I found was that I could not get the correct sized bolts her in the EU. I think they may be US sized. So this method did not work for me. So this is how I did it.

Firstly, be very careful as the end caps are easily broken if hit with a mallet or forced off with a screwdriver. One of my two gearboxes was very difficult to get apart, but with a lot of patience it can be done.

I mounted the gearbox in the jaws of a workbench gripping the sides of the worm gear casing so that the end caps are free. Using a Stanley knife I very slowly tapped the blade into the joint of the end cap and the main body of the gearbox with a mallet. Try doing this away from the corners which are more liable to break off. Eventually I succeeded in opening up a small gap, and working around all sides of the end cap I was able to use larger and larger wedges until the cap came free.

Then go to the other side of the gearbox and drive the steel shaft towards the opened end with a drift and a hammer. (The right sized socket works fine). The shaft and bearings will pop out leaving the worm gear exposed for inspection.

Incidentally I drilled and tapped two holes near the worm gear to allow grease to be pumped in every six moths. The second hole is to allow air to come out when the grease goes in. After greasing the holes are sealed with nylon bolts and washers. Since doing this I have not suffered a gear failure. I also plan to drill the 4 holes to a bigger size and tap to a metric thread size.

Good luck!

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader (Cyprus)

On 09/03/2021 22:12, VICTOR MOLERO wrote:
Hello all.
I have also dismantled the gearbox of the main's furler because it made a horrible sound and finally didn't have enough strength to move the furler. Now I have the gearbox over my table, and I am not being able to loosen the bolts that hold the side cap that covers the horizontal shaft coming from the motor. So I decided to follow another path by loosening the bolts that are underneath to get out the vertical shaft that actually moves the furler; these bolts came out nicely, but there's no way I can move the cap. Can anyone provide any tip, recommendation or saint to pray to...
Thanks in advance.
Victor
SM#314 Alendoy
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#56972) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [sv_freespirit@...]


Re: Problem dismantling the main furler worm gear box

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Hello all.
I have also dismantled the gearbox of the main's furler because it made a horrible sound and finally didn't have enough strength to move the furler. Now I have the gearbox over my table, and I am not being able to loosen the bolts that hold the side cap that covers the horizontal shaft coming from the motor. So I decided to follow another path by loosening the bolts that are underneath to get out the vertical shaft that actually moves the furler; these bolts came out nicely, but there's no way I can move the cap. Can anyone provide any tip, recommendation or saint to pray to...
Thanks in advance.
Victor
SM#314 Alendoy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Locker

Thomas Kleman
 

I believe Amel didn't glass the bottom of the bow compartment floor because they couldn't without a door being installed. The floor has a slight contour and fitting a pre glassed piece of plywood into the locker to get the contour right would have been very difficult. I did the bow locker floor/ hawse pipe job a few years ago.

On the rusty chain topic though, one overlooked issue in the chain locker is the bottom grate. On #422 the chain rests atop a non removable grate (a false bottom) and under the grate is the drain fitting leading to the bilge. Only way to clear it is to blow air or water into this fitting from the other side. But that clears it, it doesn't clean it. I made my grate removable by cutting a hole in it when I put in my bow locker door and new floor. I vacuum it periodically from inside the chain locker because it clogs from debris on the chain. Now my chain is never sitting in water inside the chain locker.

Tom Kleman
SV L'ORIENT
SM2K 422
Oahu


Re: Perkins Prima M50 Transmission ratio

Aras Grinius
 

Excellent info Thank you Volker

On Tue, Mar 9, 2021 at 9:03 AM Volker <Puchta@...> wrote:
Hi Aras,

the ratio on my original Perkins M50 / Hurth was 2,74:1
The prop is the original 19 x 13.
I am in the process to replace the engine by a Nanni N4.50 with TM 345 gear box with a 2:1 ratio. The yard will adapt the prop.

Volker
Mickmoon, Sharki no. 176



--
Aras Grinius


Re: Perkins Prima M50 Transmission ratio

Volker
 

Hi Aras,

the ratio on my original Perkins M50 / Hurth was 2,74:1
The prop is the original 19 x 13.
I am in the process to replace the engine by a Nanni N4.50 with TM 345 gear box with a 2:1 ratio. The yard will adapt the prop.

Volker
Mickmoon, Sharki no. 176


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Locker

rossirossix4
 
Edited

Wanted to reinforce James's comment where he says "I try to pull my anchor chain out each time I am in a marina, rinse and dry the locker....I also keep the chain door open to vent as much as I can so that things can dry inside the locker."  In addition to keeping down wood rot it also prevents chain rust and I am willing to bet that most chain rust occurs in the chain locker when the chain is coated with damp salt for long periods of time.

Securing the chain locker access door can be a challenge .  I was recently running through photos and ran into this photo of a project I completed while we were locked down in Santa Marta, Colombia for 7 weeks about a year ago!

Using re-purposed stainless door stops you can make your locker door easier to position and perhaps it works as an incentive to vent the chain locker or to spray it out after chain is removed and rinsed with fresh water.

Self explanitary project photo is here-- https://photos.app.goo.gl/xrf5V6TP3dL5g9mx7    The door is easy to "hang"  on the opening while you dog down the wooden bar--all while trying to avoid crushing the AC ducting with your elbow!  Best to position and mark the holes of the door stops while the door is correctly positioned and then remove and drill and secure with screws--make sure you buy ones that are tall enough to grab the opening.  You can also add horizontal positioning but it seems unnecessary.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM429


Re: Rudder Post Bonding

Alan Leslie
 

Ours is in the lazarette, starboard side and it's actually copper foil, not a wire.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Self Insurance

Mark Erdos
 

If you are having trouble with insurance, contact The Marine Shop in NZ or Topsail in the UK. Both will write a policy with an A+ rated underwriter. If you are an OCC member, Topsail has a partnership with the OCC and offers members a discount. Both offer policies in US$ or Euros. In addition, there is the Growie Jackline insurance in the USA, SSCA can get discounts. Again, A+ rated underwriters but much more expensive than the UK or NZ (and will require a recent survey and rig inspection).

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

3601 - 3620 of 60471