Date   

Simpson Davits Maintenance

Denis Foster
 

Hello,

For those having experience servicing  Simpson Davits:


Checking all systems after dewinterizing, I lowered the weights of our dyneema manual Simpson davits. When lowering with just the weights and no down oriented force I notice that the dyneema has a tendency to be a little slow and stops from time to time. I pull the little  slack by hand and all works well. Lifting the tender seems yo work ok.

May be this is a signal that some maintenance could be a good idea. Has someone advice and or documentation. Do some sheaves need oiling or greasing. But I wouldn’t like to put grease on the wrong item (brakes?). Can you access this by removing the rear panels.

Best regards.

Denis


wind sensor

Eloi Bamberg
 

hello,

I am switching my old navigation instruments to new B&G stuff (NMEA2000). To change the wind sensor i want to wait till i change the standing Rigg and my mast will be pulled down in July, Does anybody know if the original sensor can be used as normal NMEA0183 sensor or does it need to be connected to the Hydra to be used? The documentation is not clear on that for me.

Regards,
Eloi
SM2K 426 Red Lion


Re: Bow Thruster Will Not Lower

Ian Park
 

Have you listened to the motor or tried to manually push the thruster down when operating the switch? If the motor is working but the thruster is not going down the wire strip should be slack which might indicate something mechanical jamming the drive tube. If the wire is not moving then it is a motor problem. The light and buzzer working when ‘up’ is engaged has no significance. It would always do that in a he up position.
I have had issues with the sail switches when they worked one way and not the other - slightly burnt contacts. You could test by swapping the wires for up down and see if it does descend. If so you can remove the switch and clean the contacts. It is easy to dismantle and clean.
I think a failing motor might have given you a bit more notice!

Good luck

Ian


Re: Bow Thruster Will Not Lower

 

Your model bow thruster has analog switching controls vs later model bow thrusters. 

There are many possibilities. It is most likely that you have a wiring connection issue or a micro-switch issue. CorrosionX is your friend and should be used at each connection. This is going to require testing everything in the bow thruster control circuit beginning with the Power switch & Up/Down toggle to the wiring and switching controlling the bow thruster actuator motor, and possibly the actuator itself. A person with average to good electrical skills can probably find the issue. If you have done anything that could have possibly caused this, check that first.

The following is a snippet of a page in my Amel Book showing the Micro Switch which is inside the aluminum control box.

image.png

Aluminum control box in green and actuator motor in red:
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Apr 20, 2021 at 9:17 AM Azimuth via groups.io <lisallt2=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
We have a 1996 Santorin, which we have owned for 4 years. Recently, when we were leaving a marina, the bow thruster would not lower. We had just come into the marina 2-3 weeks prior and there had been no issue with the thruster. We tested all of the electrical connections and there is power going to all. Also, it will beep when the toggle is switched to the "up" position, indicating that the thruster is all of the way up. It just doesn't move at all when the toggle is switched the the "down" position. We are preparing to haul out in a few days and remove the thruster for maintenance. In the meantime, can anyone think of anything else we can check? We've looked through the documents and topics in this group and couldn't find this specific issue. 

Stephen and Lisa
s/v Azimuth


Bow Thruster Will Not Lower

Azimuth
 

We have a 1996 Santorin, which we have owned for 4 years. Recently, when we were leaving a marina, the bow thruster would not lower. We had just come into the marina 2-3 weeks prior and there had been no issue with the thruster. We tested all of the electrical connections and there is power going to all. Also, it will beep when the toggle is switched to the "up" position, indicating that the thruster is all of the way up. It just doesn't move at all when the toggle is switched the the "down" position. We are preparing to haul out in a few days and remove the thruster for maintenance. In the meantime, can anyone think of anything else we can check? We've looked through the documents and topics in this group and couldn't find this specific issue. 

Stephen and Lisa
s/v Azimuth


Re: Bow prop

Eloi Bamberg
 

Thanks everybody.
I found it, fixed the loose connection and it works fine again :-)

Eloi


Re: Holding tank mystery

 

Paul,

Very good and very complete.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 3:03 PM Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:
Thomas!
I made a video on how we fixed our toilet who drained VERY slowly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b62ZtpxCPnE&t=5s&ab_channel=Paul%C3%96sterberg
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259 Lagos, Portugal sykerpa.com


Re: Holding tank mystery

Thomas Kleman
 

Many thanks for the replies and ideas. It ended up being two problems. First, the sanitary hoses and copper inlet tube were blocked. I have a number of tools to quickly deal with that so that's why the slowness of drainage while flushing was perplexing, even after changing everything in the system. The other culprit was my hot wire to the motor having enough corrosion under the "waterproof" connector to reduce performance. Now when you push that red button......stand back three feet...... it's like a jet's engine intake.

Thomas Kleman
SV L'ORIENT
Manaa, Tahiti


Re: Holding tank mystery

Paul Osterberg
 

Thomas!
I made a video on how we fixed our toilet who drained VERY slowly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b62ZtpxCPnE&t=5s&ab_channel=Paul%C3%96sterberg
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259 Lagos, Portugal sykerpa.com


Re: 5 piece stuffing box

Giovanni TESTA
 

...perfect Mark ! I had some doubts, with your pics all clear ;-)) many thanks  Giovanni


Il Lun 19 Apr 2021, 20:31 Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> ha scritto:
Giovanni,
 
In the USA, this is a very common home plumbing pipe that can be found in pretty much every hardware store anywhere in the country.  You can also get it on online on Amazon and eBay and MRO sites like McMaster-Carr and Grainger.  Search for "2" Schedule 40 PVC Pipe".

Pics of Nominal 2" Schedule 40 PVC Pipe:




Then I remembered I have calipers.  Measurements might be off a bit as it's hard to hold a caliper in one hand a take a pic in the other:





--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Holding tank mystery

Dave Ritten
 

Hi Thomas

Any chance you changed the polarity of the wiring when you swapped the macerator? I have had a (non-Amel) experience where this happened and the macerator did work but very inefficiently.

Dave Ritten

 

Prospective Owner


--
Dave Ritten
Auckland
Prospective SM Owner


Re: 5 piece stuffing box

Mark McGovern
 

Giovanni,
 
In the USA, this is a very common home plumbing pipe that can be found in pretty much every hardware store anywhere in the country.  You can also get it on online on Amazon and eBay and MRO sites like McMaster-Carr and Grainger.  Search for "2" Schedule 40 PVC Pipe".

Pics of Nominal 2" Schedule 40 PVC Pipe:




Then I remembered I have calipers.  Measurements might be off a bit as it's hard to hold a caliper in one hand a take a pic in the other:





--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: FW: Comparing Amel Super Maramu to the Amel 54 & 55

Julia Sloman
 

Many thanks to Joel, Ann-Sofie and Paul, and also those of you who have contacted us privately, for your comments. They have been very helpful.
Kind regards
Julia 


Re: Holding tank mystery

 

Thomas,

A few more ideas:

Maybe the vent is blocked at the deck cap. You can eliminate this possibility by opening the cap to see if there is any difference.

And, did you check the voltage at the pump?

Of course, it could be a not-so-good or a bad pump.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Apr 18, 2021 at 7:47 PM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Tom,

 

A couple of after thoughts:

 

Is the chopper plate and the centrifugal impeller securely fastened to the motor shaft and not worn? And, is the macerator housing oriented correctly? There is also a seal housing in that same area. If the lip seal or o-ring is worn, the pump will suck air into the system rather than move black water.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mark Erdos via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2021 1:46 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Holding tank mystery

 

Tom,

 

Welcome to FP.

 

Can you clarify, please. Is it the water coming in, or the water going out? I assume by removing motors etc. you are having trouble with the water leaving. If so, have you cleaned the through hull from outside of the boat. Perhaps you picked up some critters along the way.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2021 11:06 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Holding tank mystery

 

I noticed after our 17 day rather rough ride between Oahu and FP that my aft head flushes very slowly. OK, no big problem (not my first rodeo), so change the hoses (clogged), use my drill driven auger on the fitting and.......only about 50 pct better and not nearly the speed of the bow head. Next I break out the medieval tools, pipes I've sharpened and cut to length and I can now make contact with the top of the holding tank from the bottom of the fitting (with a big pipe)...ie. there is no blockage. Better, but still not overly fast. New macerator motor, new hoses, no blockage in fitting......not sure what to do next. If I damaged the copper pipe fitting on its way up to the top of the tank, it wouldn't effect flush speed (I think ?)

Thomas Kleman

SV L'ORIENT
Maraa, Tahiti

 


Re: 5 piece stuffing box

Giovanni TESTA
 

Mark,
many thanks, may I have a pic ? I have some problems to find the same here...
For C-Drive is very important to have the right dimensions.
Giovanni Testa
sv EUTIKIA  SM 428

Il 19/04/2021 12:52, Mark McGovern ha scritto:
Giovanni,
 
I just repacked my rudder stuffing box and found that the same piece of PVC pipe that I use to seat the C-Drive seals works well to help seat the packing material in the stuffing box.  I also used a 1/4" (6mm) piece of hardwood to seat the packing.
 
In the USA a piece of nominal 2" Schedule 40 PVC pipe about 10 inches (~250mm)long works well.  The dimensions of 2" Schedule 40 PVC are as follows:
 
OD:  2.375 inch/60.3mm
ID:  2.047 inch/52mm
Wall Thickness: 0.154 inch/3.9mm
Length: 10 inch/250mm 

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: 5 piece stuffing box

Mark McGovern
 

Giovanni,
 
I just repacked my rudder stuffing box and found that the same piece of PVC pipe that I use to seat the C-Drive seals works well to help seat the packing material in the stuffing box.  I also used a 1/4" (6mm) piece of hardwood to seat the packing.
 
In the USA a piece of nominal 2" Schedule 40 PVC pipe about 10 inches (~250mm)long works well.  The dimensions of 2" Schedule 40 PVC are as follows:
 
OD:  2.375 inch/60.3mm
ID:  2.047 inch/52mm
Wall Thickness: 0.154 inch/3.9mm
Length: 10 inch/250mm 

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: New LiFePO4 Batteries for Aquarius

Scott SV Tengah
 

That's a fantastic deal and far less than what I paid for my Victron batteries. If mine ever die I might consider this manufacturer after some more research.

A few things I paid attention to when setting up my system and I noticed here, that might help those of you designing your systems for longevity:

1) For this battery, the recommended charge current is 50-80amps for each 300AH. That's around .16 x Capacity to .26C. Keep that in mind when sizing your chargers. Victron recommends 0.5C, so with my 450AH system, I am running 200 amps of charging into it, below Victron's recommended limit. Battle Born recommends 0.5C also. With an equivalent 450AH system from this manufacturer, it seems you should not have more than 75-120amps of charging. Not a big deal but it will definitely increase your generator runtimes if you don't have enough solar/wind.

2) The maximum continuous recommended discharge current is 0.66C whereas Victron recommends 2.0C. Battle Born recommends 1.0C. For most uses, this is not a concern but be aware if you're maxing out a 5kw inverter and running your water maker, that is nearly 225amps. We have done that on occassion.

3) Someone really should ask or better yet, test to see what happens at low and high voltage cutoff. Does it completely disconnect the offending 3.3v cell and if so, how does that affect bank voltage? Or does one offending cell disconnect 8 cells so that your voltage is not affected? Perhaps it does what Victron does and turn off charging, but leaves the battery connected? This is important because I have definitely gotten a few high voltage cutoffs on my system in the last 2 years. You don't want to find out that the BMS cuts all your power off in the middle of a storm in the event of a relatively common high voltage disconnect.

4) I know Victron's low voltage cutoff strategy is to disconnect the load, not something I would like to happen in a storm. I don't deal with low voltage disconnect the way Victron wants me to, rather relying on the generator to come on and raise the voltage. What is the response in this system?

FYI Mastervolt has even higher charge and discharge limits, so I don't think my system is the "most robust". I do know that MV is much more expensive than Victron and it is what it is, but it's important to respect those limits. I cannot imagine Victron/MV is less conservative with their ratings compared to Chinese retailers, so it probably has to do with the internal connections.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Deck hatch dogs reinforcements

Pierre Blouin
 

Guys, I just finished getting this part made at a local machine shop.  I brought him the sample you see in this picture Bill attached (that was a picture I took). So the machine shop took my sample, reversed engineered a drawing and made a few more for me, it's made of aluminum. Coincidentally, I was just about to come offer to this group a bulk order,  if anyone is interested, just send me an email offline at blouin_dion@....  Depending on the volume, price will be ~ $20 USD each + shipping,

I don't have a picture of the new one unfortunately, brought the new parts on Viva yesterday, about to install them.  I'll come back with a picture in the next few days.

P.S. This is my first post, we bought our SM 6 months ago. We're thrilled. What a great group this is, joined this group over 8 months ago, and have been following every thread since.

Pierre
SV Viva SM #374
Portland, OR


Re: Holding tank mystery

Mark Erdos
 

Tom,

 

A couple of after thoughts:

 

Is the chopper plate and the centrifugal impeller securely fastened to the motor shaft and not worn? And, is the macerator housing oriented correctly? There is also a seal housing in that same area. If the lip seal or o-ring is worn, the pump will suck air into the system rather than move black water.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mark Erdos via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2021 1:46 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Holding tank mystery

 

Tom,

 

Welcome to FP.

 

Can you clarify, please. Is it the water coming in, or the water going out? I assume by removing motors etc. you are having trouble with the water leaving. If so, have you cleaned the through hull from outside of the boat. Perhaps you picked up some critters along the way.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2021 11:06 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Holding tank mystery

 

I noticed after our 17 day rather rough ride between Oahu and FP that my aft head flushes very slowly. OK, no big problem (not my first rodeo), so change the hoses (clogged), use my drill driven auger on the fitting and.......only about 50 pct better and not nearly the speed of the bow head. Next I break out the medieval tools, pipes I've sharpened and cut to length and I can now make contact with the top of the holding tank from the bottom of the fitting (with a big pipe)...ie. there is no blockage. Better, but still not overly fast. New macerator motor, new hoses, no blockage in fitting......not sure what to do next. If I damaged the copper pipe fitting on its way up to the top of the tank, it wouldn't effect flush speed (I think ?)

Thomas Kleman

SV L'ORIENT
Maraa, Tahiti

 


Re: Holding tank mystery

Thomas Kleman
 

Sorry for the incomplete info. The toilet doesn't empty rapidly into the holding tank. The discharge port, joker valve, macerator motor, hoses are all new. The copper pipe going up into the tank is perfectly clear, as is the junction fitting between the smaller and larger hose. I'm totally at a loss on this one.

Thomas Kleman
SV L'ORIENT
Maraa, Tahiti

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