Date   

Re: Volvo D3

Teun BAAS
 

Paul,

 

I replaced the VOLVO D3 110iC in 2018 with the VOLVO D3 110iH

 

Pls contact me directly ( teun@... ) and I will explain.

 

Best Regards Teun

April 21, 2021 07:48:28

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Harries via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2021 07:10
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3

 

As a prospective buyer of a 54 I am anxious about all the negative comments online about the Volvo D3. Could you place this in context for me? Is this a bad engine with limited life? Are problems common place? Is it reliable?
Anyone had to replace engine, if so with what and at what cost.
The problem with the internet is that problems tend to be magnified and reliability is under reported.
I just want to place my anxiety in context.
Thx

Paul


Re: Simpson Davits Maintenance

Scott SV Tengah
 

If the manual ones are anything like the electric ones, it's very simple. In fact, it appears to be made in someone's home workshop. 

Just take the rear cover off and take a peek.

On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 4:27 PM Denis Foster <deniswfoster@...> wrote:
Hi Scott

Same thing Cooney asked for 7000€ for new manual Davits since they pretended it could not be upgraded to Dyneema. 

So I asked the local yard to do the Dyneema upgrade two years ago  for around 200€. Unfortunately I wasn’t there to see how they did it.

In fact it has worked quite well. 

I learned it was better to leave the lines down with the weights in the middle when tender in use in the water. Quicker and easier to lift back up.

I am still looking for shop manual that would describe the inside and procedures.

Thank s again for your help.

Denis 

Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 21 avr. 2021 à 12:40, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> a écrit :


Denis,

Yes, I changed the wire out to dyneema. Very good upgrade. I think Simpson wanted 4000 GBP for it and it cost me 100 euros to simply change it.

Of course at the end of the davit where the line makes a 90 degree turn, there's a sheave. Perhaps yours is well worn or binding?

To access the motor/gearbox on mine, you just remove the small allen bolts on the forward (in relation to the boat) portion of the davits. On our electric davits, you remove four quite large screws from underneath the arm and the motor/gearbox bracket comes right out. Sadly, I've had to fix it more times than I care to mention.

Scott

On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 12:28 PM Denis Foster <deniswfoster@...> wrote:

Hi Scott,

Thanks for your reply. Did you change from wire to dyneema? 

I feel but can t see that one of the sheaves inside has friction that our ordinary weight is not sufficient to overcome.

I can t find a diagram view of the mechanism in our Series 7 Simpson Davits

BTW great information from your social media.

Best regards

Denis


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Volvo D3

Stefan Schaufert
 

Dear Paul,

our D3 has appr. 1700 hours and is very reliable - so far.

Only the water pump was a little bit tricky (leaky) - from time to time.

Best regards
Stefan
A54 #119 Lady Charlyette, currently Bahamas


Re: Simpson Davits Maintenance

Denis Foster
 

Hi Scott

Same thing Cooney asked for 7000€ for new manual Davits since they pretended it could not be upgraded to Dyneema. 

So I asked the local yard to do the Dyneema upgrade two years ago  for around 200€. Unfortunately I wasn’t there to see how they did it.

In fact it has worked quite well. 

I learned it was better to leave the lines down with the weights in the middle when tender in use in the water. Quicker and easier to lift back up.

I am still looking for shop manual that would describe the inside and procedures.

Thank s again for your help.

Denis 

Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 21 avr. 2021 à 12:40, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> a écrit :


Denis,

Yes, I changed the wire out to dyneema. Very good upgrade. I think Simpson wanted 4000 GBP for it and it cost me 100 euros to simply change it.

Of course at the end of the davit where the line makes a 90 degree turn, there's a sheave. Perhaps yours is well worn or binding?

To access the motor/gearbox on mine, you just remove the small allen bolts on the forward (in relation to the boat) portion of the davits. On our electric davits, you remove four quite large screws from underneath the arm and the motor/gearbox bracket comes right out. Sadly, I've had to fix it more times than I care to mention.

Scott

On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 12:28 PM Denis Foster <deniswfoster@...> wrote:

Hi Scott,

Thanks for your reply. Did you change from wire to dyneema? 

I feel but can t see that one of the sheaves inside has friction that our ordinary weight is not sufficient to overcome.

I can t find a diagram view of the mechanism in our Series 7 Simpson Davits

BTW great information from your social media.

Best regards

Denis


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Volvo D3

Paul Harries
 

As a prospective buyer of a 54 I am anxious about all the negative comments online about the Volvo D3. Could you place this in context for me? Is this a bad engine with limited life? Are problems common place? Is it reliable?
Anyone had to replace engine, if so with what and at what cost.
The problem with the internet is that problems tend to be magnified and reliability is under reported.
I just want to place my anxiety in context.
Thx
Paul


Re: Lofrans Tigris Windlass

Ian Park
 

Thanks everyone who offered advice. 

it was a Homer Simpson ‘Doh!’ moment.
After testing everywhere with the multimeter and then a long pause ....
I have always switched on the bow thruster breaker when I switch the windlass breaker, just st n case I might need it. The cockpit controls go live with windlass breaker, but the switches on a he windlass itself are activated through the bow thruster breaker!
you learn something every day. This is original wiring on Santorin 96.

Ian.  Ocean Hobo

 

t


Re: Simpson Davits Maintenance

Scott SV Tengah
 

Denis,

Yes, I changed the wire out to dyneema. Very good upgrade. I think Simpson wanted 4000 GBP for it and it cost me 100 euros to simply change it.

Of course at the end of the davit where the line makes a 90 degree turn, there's a sheave. Perhaps yours is well worn or binding?

To access the motor/gearbox on mine, you just remove the small allen bolts on the forward (in relation to the boat) portion of the davits. On our electric davits, you remove four quite large screws from underneath the arm and the motor/gearbox bracket comes right out. Sadly, I've had to fix it more times than I care to mention.

Scott

On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 12:28 PM Denis Foster <deniswfoster@...> wrote:

Hi Scott,

Thanks for your reply. Did you change from wire to dyneema? 

I feel but can t see that one of the sheaves inside has friction that our ordinary weight is not sufficient to overcome.

I can t find a diagram view of the mechanism in our Series 7 Simpson Davits

BTW great information from your social media.

Best regards

Denis


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Simpson Davits Maintenance

Denis Foster
 

Hi Scott,

Thanks for your reply. Did you change from wire to dyneema? 

I feel but can t see that one of the sheaves inside has friction that our ordinary weight is not sufficient to overcome.

I can t find a diagram view of the mechanism in our Series 7 Simpson Davits

BTW great information from your social media.

Best regards

Denis


Re: Simpson Davits Maintenance

Scott SV Tengah
 

We have the electric Simpson davits, so our experience may not be 100% applicable.

One of our weights is heavier than the other. For the lighter weight, sometimes we experience the same slow lowering. Perhaps you can change the weight? 

For ours, the lighter weight works most of the time, so I've decided to keep it as I've been hit in the head by the heavier weight and it's not pleasant. :)

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Bilge outlet thru hull fitting

Thomas Kleman
 

I'm doing a haul out in a week here in Tahiti. In addition to the normal bow thruster/prop seal maintenance, I plan on finally installing my brand new 8 year old spare holding tank ball valves purchased from Amel. But while doing my periodic flashlight inspection of the engine room, I noticed that my bilge outlet ball valve is heavily corroded. I can't even read the markings even when doing the gymnastics necessary to get anywhere near it. It looks about the same size as the ball valves for the holding tanks but that's not enough certainty for me. I was hoping someone on this site has recently changed it or knows the size, or can confirm that all three ball valves are identical.

Thomas Kleman 
SM2K 422
Maraa, Tahiti


Re: wind sensor

Dominique Sery
 

I use a Miniplex multiplexer (Shipmodul) to network everything.
The B&G Hydra 2000 instruments, the AIS A100 emTrak, the Furuno GPS (GP90) in nmea 0183,
 the VHF Icom 506 and the Raymarine plotter (es127) in nmea 2000
The computer in USB (Maxsea Time zero)
And the iPad in Wifi
I chose a multiplexer because I had devices of different ages.

Dominique
Irko A54#16


Re: wind sensor

Dominique Sery
 

Hello,
There is no nmea 0183 at the output of the wind sensor.
You must keep the Hydra 2000 to connect the output nmea 0183 (wind information) to the new system.
Dominique


Re: wind sensor

Matt & Michelle Day, SM#208 SV Talia
 

Eloi,

During our recent B&G conversion I wanted to save the wind instrument and depth sounder, until I could do the rigging change and haul out.  Bill was incredibly helpful in providing guidance on the 183 pinout.  I looked into a NMEA0183 to NMEA2K converter, and spoke to two different suppliers.  Feedback from both suppliers was the same, "No guarantees the Hydra2000 output to NMEA0183, would be recognized on NMEA2K."   At that point I changed gears, saved the cost of a converter and went full NMEA2K.  The sensor is dumb and needs the Hydra to output a useable signal. 

I also started down the path of pulling the masts to do the rigging change.  Its a mechanical system, I'm an engineer (new to Amels), can't be that big of a deal!  I spent several weeks talking to riggers, Bill and the past owners about the rigging change.  Then I spent a couple of weeks doing the electronics refit.  After the advice and exploring the guts of this boat, I would have a very difficult time suggesting the rig come down.  Make sure you do your research and don't let anyone convince you that the only way to change the standing rig is to dismast the boat.  My cost went down, when I found a rigger whom understood it can be done in-place.

Matt
SV Talia
SM#208


Simpson Davits Maintenance

Denis Foster
 

Hello,

For those having experience servicing  Simpson Davits:


Checking all systems after dewinterizing, I lowered the weights of our dyneema manual Simpson davits. When lowering with just the weights and no down oriented force I notice that the dyneema has a tendency to be a little slow and stops from time to time. I pull the little  slack by hand and all works well. Lifting the tender seems yo work ok.

May be this is a signal that some maintenance could be a good idea. Has someone advice and or documentation. Do some sheaves need oiling or greasing. But I wouldn’t like to put grease on the wrong item (brakes?). Can you access this by removing the rear panels.

Best regards.

Denis


wind sensor

Eloi Bamberg
 

hello,

I am switching my old navigation instruments to new B&G stuff (NMEA2000). To change the wind sensor i want to wait till i change the standing Rigg and my mast will be pulled down in July, Does anybody know if the original sensor can be used as normal NMEA0183 sensor or does it need to be connected to the Hydra to be used? The documentation is not clear on that for me.

Regards,
Eloi
SM2K 426 Red Lion


Re: Bow Thruster Will Not Lower

Ian Park
 

Have you listened to the motor or tried to manually push the thruster down when operating the switch? If the motor is working but the thruster is not going down the wire strip should be slack which might indicate something mechanical jamming the drive tube. If the wire is not moving then it is a motor problem. The light and buzzer working when ‘up’ is engaged has no significance. It would always do that in a he up position.
I have had issues with the sail switches when they worked one way and not the other - slightly burnt contacts. You could test by swapping the wires for up down and see if it does descend. If so you can remove the switch and clean the contacts. It is easy to dismantle and clean.
I think a failing motor might have given you a bit more notice!

Good luck

Ian


Re: Bow Thruster Will Not Lower

 

Your model bow thruster has analog switching controls vs later model bow thrusters. 

There are many possibilities. It is most likely that you have a wiring connection issue or a micro-switch issue. CorrosionX is your friend and should be used at each connection. This is going to require testing everything in the bow thruster control circuit beginning with the Power switch & Up/Down toggle to the wiring and switching controlling the bow thruster actuator motor, and possibly the actuator itself. A person with average to good electrical skills can probably find the issue. If you have done anything that could have possibly caused this, check that first.

The following is a snippet of a page in my Amel Book showing the Micro Switch which is inside the aluminum control box.

image.png

Aluminum control box in green and actuator motor in red:
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Apr 20, 2021 at 9:17 AM Azimuth via groups.io <lisallt2=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
We have a 1996 Santorin, which we have owned for 4 years. Recently, when we were leaving a marina, the bow thruster would not lower. We had just come into the marina 2-3 weeks prior and there had been no issue with the thruster. We tested all of the electrical connections and there is power going to all. Also, it will beep when the toggle is switched to the "up" position, indicating that the thruster is all of the way up. It just doesn't move at all when the toggle is switched the the "down" position. We are preparing to haul out in a few days and remove the thruster for maintenance. In the meantime, can anyone think of anything else we can check? We've looked through the documents and topics in this group and couldn't find this specific issue. 

Stephen and Lisa
s/v Azimuth


Bow Thruster Will Not Lower

Azimuth
 

We have a 1996 Santorin, which we have owned for 4 years. Recently, when we were leaving a marina, the bow thruster would not lower. We had just come into the marina 2-3 weeks prior and there had been no issue with the thruster. We tested all of the electrical connections and there is power going to all. Also, it will beep when the toggle is switched to the "up" position, indicating that the thruster is all of the way up. It just doesn't move at all when the toggle is switched the the "down" position. We are preparing to haul out in a few days and remove the thruster for maintenance. In the meantime, can anyone think of anything else we can check? We've looked through the documents and topics in this group and couldn't find this specific issue. 

Stephen and Lisa
s/v Azimuth


Re: Bow prop

Eloi Bamberg
 

Thanks everybody.
I found it, fixed the loose connection and it works fine again :-)

Eloi


Re: Holding tank mystery

 

Paul,

Very good and very complete.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 3:03 PM Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:
Thomas!
I made a video on how we fixed our toilet who drained VERY slowly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b62ZtpxCPnE&t=5s&ab_channel=Paul%C3%96sterberg
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259 Lagos, Portugal sykerpa.com

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